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Into The Past
Portugal
Приєднався 9 кві 2021
Hello, welcome to Into The Past, a channel dedicated to history and art, in english and portuguese.
Elisabeth of Bourbon, Mariana of Austria and the Guardainfante
Discover the fascinating story of the guardainfante, a striking and controversial garment that became an iconic symbol of 17th-century Spanish fashion. This video explores its origins during the reign of Philip IV, when the wide-hipped hoopskirt caused public outrage for allegedly concealing illicit pregnancies and defying social norms. Despite being banned in 1639, the guardainfante thrived, evolving into a symbol of status and power at the Spanish court.
Follow the journey of this elaborate garment, from its scandalous reputation to its representation in the courtly portraits of queens and noblewomen, as well as its broader influence across the Spanish Empire and beyond. I delve into the materials, craftsmanship, and cultural significance of the guardainfante, revealing its enduring legacy in the history of fashion and politics.
Join me as I uncover the stories behind this remarkable piece of clothing, and how it shaped-and was shaped by-the turbulent times of Baroque Spain.
Keywords:
Guardainfante, Spanish fashion history, 17th-century clothing, Baroque Spain, Philip IV, hoopskirt, farthingale, court fashion, historical dress, Spanish Empire, controversial fashion, Mariana of Austria, political symbolism in fashion, Baroque costume, women’s fashion history, Golden Age Spain, Documentary.
Sources:
Bernis Madrazo, C. (1988). La moda en la España de Felipe II a través del retrato de corte. In Alonso Sánchez Coello y el retrato en la corte de Felipe II (Catálogo de exposición). Madrid: Museo del Prado.
Bernis Madrazo, C. (2001). El traje y los tipos sociales en el Quijote. Madrid: Visor.
Bernis, C. (1962). Indumentaria española en tiempos de Carlos V. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velázquez, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC).
Descalzo, A. (2014). Spanish fashion at the courts of early modern Europe. In J. L. Colomer & A. Descalzo (Eds.), Spanish fashion at the courts of early modern Europe (Vol. 1). Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica.
Pastoureau, M. (2009). Black: The history of a color. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press
Wunder, A. (2015). Women’s fashions and politics in seventeenth-century Spain: The rise and fall of the guardainfante. Renaissance Quarterly, 68(1), 133-186. The University of Chicago Press.
Wunder, A. (2017). Innovation and tradition at the court of Philip IV of Spain (1621-1665): The invention of the golilla and the guardainfante. In E. Welch (Ed.), Fashioning the early modern: Dress, textiles, and innovation in Europe, 1500-1800 (pp. 111-118). Pasold Research Fund.
#guardainfante #history #baroque
INSTA: int0thepast?next=%2FPAST_INTO%2F
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Follow the journey of this elaborate garment, from its scandalous reputation to its representation in the courtly portraits of queens and noblewomen, as well as its broader influence across the Spanish Empire and beyond. I delve into the materials, craftsmanship, and cultural significance of the guardainfante, revealing its enduring legacy in the history of fashion and politics.
Join me as I uncover the stories behind this remarkable piece of clothing, and how it shaped-and was shaped by-the turbulent times of Baroque Spain.
Keywords:
Guardainfante, Spanish fashion history, 17th-century clothing, Baroque Spain, Philip IV, hoopskirt, farthingale, court fashion, historical dress, Spanish Empire, controversial fashion, Mariana of Austria, political symbolism in fashion, Baroque costume, women’s fashion history, Golden Age Spain, Documentary.
Sources:
Bernis Madrazo, C. (1988). La moda en la España de Felipe II a través del retrato de corte. In Alonso Sánchez Coello y el retrato en la corte de Felipe II (Catálogo de exposición). Madrid: Museo del Prado.
Bernis Madrazo, C. (2001). El traje y los tipos sociales en el Quijote. Madrid: Visor.
Bernis, C. (1962). Indumentaria española en tiempos de Carlos V. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velázquez, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC).
Descalzo, A. (2014). Spanish fashion at the courts of early modern Europe. In J. L. Colomer & A. Descalzo (Eds.), Spanish fashion at the courts of early modern Europe (Vol. 1). Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica.
Pastoureau, M. (2009). Black: The history of a color. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press
Wunder, A. (2015). Women’s fashions and politics in seventeenth-century Spain: The rise and fall of the guardainfante. Renaissance Quarterly, 68(1), 133-186. The University of Chicago Press.
Wunder, A. (2017). Innovation and tradition at the court of Philip IV of Spain (1621-1665): The invention of the golilla and the guardainfante. In E. Welch (Ed.), Fashioning the early modern: Dress, textiles, and innovation in Europe, 1500-1800 (pp. 111-118). Pasold Research Fund.
#guardainfante #history #baroque
INSTA: int0thepast?next=%2FPAST_INTO%2F
Like and subscribe!
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Scarlatti considered Spanish changes your name and surname Italians for Domingo Escarlati in Spanish the descedants living today in Spain
All stolen from Africa. Washing , elder teaching younger, over all cleanliness . The focus on education. ( timbuktu still had the biggest library at this time )
I loved it all but… listening again and again “guardainfant” has been a torture! In Spanish it is “guardainfantE”! I know it sounds ridiculous but imagine a key word in any communication pronounced wrong. Anyway, it was better than good…👍🏽
Absolutamente incrível. Obrigada pelo vídeo e saudações do Brasil!
Hoop supports helped carry the weight of the gown's skirts. In the 1830's, that was done with multiple starched corded petticoats. Those were a lot of work, very heavy, and hot; to be quickly changed in fashion.
spanish rule over Portugal was horrible leading the country to great resentment towards Spain that still echoes today.
I love, but reeeally love baroque fashion in the Spanish "Golden Century", and I've done a lot of research about it for decades. No one could have explained the origin and evolution of the "guardainfante" better than you! Nevertheless, I have a couple of theories: If you see portraits of late 1620's & early 1630's, you'll see conical farthingale silhouette, but with slight volume at hip area, which increased through the years... So, instead of the French farthingale (which, as you said, Queen Isabel knew very well, and which she could have compared to the guardainfante herself, unwillingly confirming its french origin legend), I'd say the influence was the waist barrel pads worn along with the French or wheel farthingale in northern Europe, including the Spanish Netherlands (Belgium). In fact, the shape female headdresses had in the second quarter of the XVIIth century in the Spanish Empire also resemble a more dramatic version of the headdresses worn in the Netherlands in the 1620's-30's. You mentioned the ban from the late 1630's. By that time guardainfante'shape was dome-like. The ban forbade skirts hemline to be wider than about 3'5 meters in total, so I think tailors thought "really? OK, we'll make the hemline circumference 3'5 meters wide, but we'll leave the hip area as it is, and that's what changed the silhouette from semi-spherical or dome-like, to a trapeze shape. And related to that, I also think there were 2 frameworks in use: one ankle-length, with dramatic trapeze shape, flaring a lot in front and back, for royals and high aristocrats' special events, and a thigh length framework for everyday use, with a more rectangular silhouette. Please keep in mind Spanish women sat and ate on the floor, using rugs and cushions. This comment is quite long already, but I'd like to say also that despite French fashion became the leader during the reign of Louis XIV, some decades before, Spanish fashion, in so many variants, was more widespread than any other fashion before: Spain and Portugal, central and south America, some allies like South Germany, Austria and its territories (Hungary, Bohemia...) and all Italy except Venice and Tuscany.
Far th ing gale...not Fartin gale
Lord, thank you for being born in the era of tee shirts, blue jeans and cowboy boots!
Love the video and this would be a great drinking game every time he says guardainfante I'm going to drink
I do replica hand goldwork gowns using real gold and silver threads. I'm amazed at how they react in low light levels -- someone needs to do a video about these garments evolving with the lighting of the period. Even in the lowest light levels the patterns catch whatever available light and show the pattern making the wearer easily identifiable.
❤❤
I hope you enjoy the video! I had a lot of fun making it. I've wanted to create this video for a long time (in fact, the introduction had been written since 2021😅). Anyway, I hope you like it! Leave a comment about what impressed you the most about the guardainfante. 😋
Muito interessante
I don't know if it's common with other paintings, but "las meninas" are sold as dolls and figurines too. I have Mariana de Austria.🤗
The girls from Las Meninas are nowadays a sort of mascot for the city of Madrid.
Thank you! What a pleasure it was to watch this video.
❤
sorry, hamsburg? Isn’t it Habsburg? 🤔🙇♂️💭
this was so interesting 🤗
fascinating
It's a lovely video, but I'd make an acclaration about the black colour in spanish court. Black was not only seen as a colour of seriousness or religious zeal as you point (the original intention of Philip II was clearly to make a counter-attack to the excess of rennaissance-barroque fashion from out of Spain), but it became a sign of direct power and richness. The "Negro ala de cuervo" or " crow wing's black" was a black-blue-ish hue tint from a plant called palo campeche, an american variety grown in Mexico and Brazil, it was also a colour which didn't fade away when washing clothes, this both made it a very expensive colour, and as tyrian purple or carmine red, could cost it's weight in gold. It meant the tint had traveled six months from the americas and the wearer had enough money and power to pay for it.
I love a history lesson, especially in detail.
You're welcome! Absolutely, the color black has been associated with luxury and power since the late Middle Ages, mainly because it was so difficult and expensive to dye fabric in a deep, lasting, and brilliant black. I talk about this in my video about Spanish fashion in the 16th century.
Very true. The first to use black clothes as a symbol of prestige and elegance were the Dukes of Burgundy, ancestors of the Spanish Kings, but in those times (Xvth century), the black dye made textiles stiff and stingy, and it's color fastness was not really good, so compared to it, the new XVIth century "Ala de cuervo" black, coming from the Americas, became the perfect luxury article for royals and aristocrats.
Recently bought a book on Portuguese and Spanish fashion during the era of Velasquez, glad to have found this channel ❤
my fav clothing piece of 17th century spanish fashion
There is nothing more Baroque than a guardainfante!
this is why i love your channel the attention to detail is insane 💫💫💫
there's so much history and meaning behind the guardainfante, i never knew! thank you so much for this video
Maria de la Encarnación sounds like a badass 😈
right!!!
Nowadays in Spain it's more of a grandma name, but yes, a lot of names with Christian origin are very cool. We also have the surname moorskiller and jewskiller XD
🖤
Muito bom o vídeo
Super fascinating,
Excelente vídeo.
Muy interesante ver como vestían hace tanto tiempo, buen vídeo Dios te bendiga. 🕎✝️👍🙏
Such a remarkable woman, even if her life wasn't as long as it could have been, she was a good emperess and had a happy marriage. She is well depicted in the spanish tv show Carlos Rey Emperador.
Thanks for nothing
Parabéns! O melhor vídeo dos muitos que vi sobre este monumento e com as fontes presentes na descrição. Muito obrigada!
Very interesting insight into the life at the Spanish Royal court, I've never seen so much detail on the subject, Thank you and hope to see more ))
Loving your videos, so clear and informative, no intrusive music or gimmicks just relevant images. Thank you.
Hi. Margobrada Tunic, could it be a Tunic of the Magrehb style.... ? The ''X'' motif is still traditionally used to decorate Magrehb style fashion clothes.
33:38 such a poetic way of describing evora, it reminded me of Tolkien in a way
So glad you’re back!
thank you so much for this wonderful video. so well researched ans presented
Grande André 👏 excelente trabalho como sempre