Fashioning an Empire - Spanish Renaissance Style Evolution Revealed
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2021
- Habsburg Spain was the first significant national fashion center. In the 16th century, Spanish fashion dominated Europe, both Catholic and Protestant.
This dominance of clothing culture coincided with the zenith of the Spanish Empire, spanning from Flanders to Italy, and from Japan to the Americas.
So, on today’s video, we are going to be looking back at Spanish costume in its Golden Age and try to understand what was so captivating about it.
In the middle of the 16th century women´s costume was comprised of a shirt, generally made from linen, a light, breathable and washable fabric. The shirt protected the skin from the other garments and created a barrier between the outer clothes and body oils.
On top of that, women whore the saya, a full skirted gown with a fitted bodice. No pairs of bodies or stays where worn at this point. The bodice created a smooth and fitted torso by being made from layers of stiffened linen.
Underneath the skirt women could where the verdugado creating a cone like silhouette.
Detachable sleeves, a remanence of the late medieval period, where still worn. This allow women to modified their look twithought having to own another gown, wich was a very fabric consuming garment.
Sayas could have a low cut, the so called saya baja, or low gown, normaly worn with a gorguera, covering the chest and neck, or a high neck gown, called saya entera, or full gown.
An alternative to the saya was the ropa, a lose fit gown probably of Portuguese origins.
By the late 1550s the saya, that up until that point was a single garment, started being divided in to too pieces, a bodice and a matching skirt.
This gave way to the next transformation in female costume, the adoption of the masculine Jubón, or doublet.
The Jubón was a typical male garment that appeared in the 14th century. In the 1560s women adopted it by making it more fitted and pointed at the waist.
Thus, was born the combination between the jubon and the basquiña, a petticoat like garment, that dominated Spanish fashion for decades to come.
Sources:
- Bernis Madrazo, Carmen: Indumentaria española en tiempos de Carlos V. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velázquez (Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, CSIC), 1962.
- Bernis Madrazo, Carmen: La moda en la España de Felipe II a través del retrato de corte. En el catálogo de la exposición Alonso Sánchez Coello y el retrato en la corte de Felipe II. Madrid: Museo del Prado.
- Bernis Madrazo, Carmen: El traje y los tipos sociales en el Quijote. Madrid: Visor, 2001.
- Crespo, Hugo Miguel (ed.), Comprar o Mundo. Consumo e Comércio na Lisboa do Renascimento. Shopping for Global Goods. Consumption and Trade in Renaissance Lisbon, AR-PAB: Lisboa. 2020.
Keywords:
16th century spanish fashion, renaissance fashion, tudor fashion, fans, saya, linen shirt, spanish farthingale, guardainfante, chapín, Philipe II of Spain, elizabethan fashion, ruffle collar, Elizabeth I, renaissance history, history of Spain, history of black, Habsburg royal family, Filipe II de Espana, doublet, jubón, cuello de lechuguilla, los Austrias, moda espanola. - Розваги
The information presented in this video is only possible thanks to the work and dedication of academics and researchers. Therefore they take full credit for it. You can access the sources used in the making of this video in the description
Thank you for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe!
Would you like to see a second part of this video? let me know in the comments.
Yeah, part 2 would be cool! This was really interesting! :)
I want to know more about the guardainfante!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Definitely. Great content, beautifully illustrated and explained. Glad I found you and looking forward to more videos.
Absolutely/ I'm very interested. I have made these for myself and I was working from instinct alone. I had those shoes.....in the 1970's!
5:08 Spanish perfumed gloves, specially those made in the town of Ocaña, were one of the most sought luxury exports from the country in 16th and 17th centuries.
16th century spanish fashion, it's like they are saying "we are better than you"...
"don't touch the silk peasants"
Roger is that you?
@@IntoThePast don't act so surprised you know it's me
Nothing can beat black ⚫ 🖤
Very interesting, it ́s great to see this type of videos about the Iberian Peninsula. Keep up the good work!
Beautiful.
I love the Iberian attire from this period. It's really interesting to see it's widespread influence on historical European court fashion.
Part II would be lovely.
Thank you!
I like the little “pop” sounds when a figure is added.
In English, the women’s linen undergarment was called a smock, shift or chemise. The shirt was the similar, but shorter undergarment for men.
Dang, those clothes look so heavy, and hot! Summer must have been miserable! Great videos!
Nice video, sometimes fashion point of view is missed from History youtube channels. Love the Portuguese accent BTW.
This is so good and informative that I subscribed. Could you kindly cover spanish men's fashion during the medieval times? I notice while doing research that it's surprisingly difficult to find information about men's fashion during that time. One that caught my eye in particular are cloak/capes that have slits in them for arm movement, assuming it's for easy draw of the sword just in case.
Fantastic info
Majestic fashions.
Loved the vídeo.Very interesting.Part two would also be very interesting.
Just discovered your channel and am working my way through your catalogue, your videos are both informative and entertaining and I greatly appreciate the accompanying images and elegant narration. Keep up the great work! (o:
I am truly enjoying these videos! Keep it up. 💯
Very interesting video.👍
Very interesting, I've learnt a lot. Keep up the good work.
These are very interesting talks, conveying a great deal of information in a short span, and well illustrated too. Thank you.
finally some easy to access sources on this topic!
GREAT VIDEO! So informative, now I can call garments in paintings by their porper Spanish names!! Well Done!!!
Fascinating.
Awesome video! Honestly, I accidentally stumbled on it and I'm so happy I did.
I just checked your page and saw that I had already watched all of your videos that are in English and really enjoyed those as well. Especially the Catherine of Braganza video. Can't wait for more English videos from you!
Thank you!
Awesome! Please do one on the Guardainfante
Thank you 🌻🍀
Thanks so much for the video! I’ve been trying for so long to find out what “mangas de punta” were called
Thanks for doing a fashion video, it’s great. When I went to a wedding in the 80s, I was surprised to see that the large contingent of ladies from Spain, relatives of the groom, all wore floor-length, black sequined gowns. Here in the US, and many other countries, black or white aren’t worn by wedding guests, nor are ball gowns.
I live in New York City and we wear black to weddings all the time!
In the past black was used for weddings.
I hope you are stil planning a video on Iberian mens fashion.
Really liked if Doña Ana Mendoza, the eye-patched aristocrat should be included.
I have very important question : can you tell me the name of that music in the beginning ? PS. I love your work ^^
Thank you. If i remember well its called 'desert caravan' by Aaron Kenny.
Me encanta la moda del periodo Renaissance, mas que la del periodo Victorian.
The dress at 3:38! Love it
That´s Isabella of Portugal, I have a video about her:
ua-cam.com/video/-QcjWd_TQqo/v-deo.html
Great video I just wish you went another few decades further with your analysis for personal reasons lol. I'm trying to do some historical costume research for a play called The Rover it was first performed in 1677 and it takes place in Naples but stars Spanish Noblewomen
Great video!
But i have a question. Was portuguese fashion diferent from the spanish one?
Because you used some portuguese ladies portraits in the video.
i was wondering the same
Same thing
Portuguese and Spanish fashion were basically the same or, at least very similar. This was because fashion and other inovations (like music, philosophy, politics, social norms and others) had a fertile ground in royal courts, where you have the highest concentration of powerful ,wealthy and educated people. These people were, generally, very open to these novelties and eager to adopt them.
The portuguese and the spanish courts were extremely close and the house of Aviz (Portugal) and the house of Habsburg (Spain) were related by blood and marriage. Queens and princesses where carriers of inovations like fashion that circulated between the two courts on the occasion of their marriges, hense the similarity. Mybe it would be more correct to call it Iberian Fashion, but calling it spanish is not incorrect.
@@IntoThePast That makes sense, thank you!
@@IntoThePast that is super informative, thank your your answer.
2:50 gaga shoes
ahh that´s so true!!!
The Mona Lisa is dressed in the Spanish style.
The funny outfit is Spanish is wearing short and long socks on it 😆
The 16th century was also the century where the Legend of Don Juan originated from. Don Juan was a womanizer in Spain. His charm, suave presence, and seduction would make women quiver under their bodices and leaving them flushed in the face.
Nobody had more drip back then than Incan Nobles .Well , Phillip the Second , certainly .
What the hell is that Arab music doing in a video about the Spanish golden age?, it's insulting
Can you go back to the previous thumbnail? It looks so much classier than this blue and yellow combination.
16th-century Spain, the first significant fashion center? Italian and French fashions had been popular throughout Europe since the time of Charlemagne. One of the most common criticisms of the nobility and youth is their devotion to foreign fashion trends.
Although there were some small local fashion centers in the courts of Italy and France, their influence is not comparable with the spanish style of the 16th century. That's way i called it the first significant fashion center, not the first fashion center.
Spanish fashion was more cohesive as a single identity than, lets say, italian fashion, that had much more local variations. Fashion in Venice was very different from fashion in Rome.
Because italian fashion was so fractioned it never manage to be as widespread as the spanish one.
Here's a lecture of costume historian Valerie Steele at the Museum at FIT (NY). Although its about Paris as a fashion center she introduces the subject by talking about the dominance of spanish fashion in the renaissance:
ua-cam.com/video/WPeFvGME9_0/v-deo.html
@@IntoThePast That's a highly subjective take that I doubt many serious historians of fashion would endorse.
@@valmarsiglia Not really, it's pretty much universally accepted given that the surviving evidence (portraits, extant garments, household accounts, etc.) all points to this same conclusion. A whole collection of articles were published in 2011 as a collection, entitled "Spanish Fashion in Early Modern Europe : the prevalence and prestige of Spanish attire in the courts of the 16th and 17th centuries," detailing this extensively.
@@ashtonadams2843 Lol, love those weasel-words! "All people of taste agree..", "The most eminent minds are unanimous..." Not to mention how it ignores every other part of the world, as though everyone wore rags until the Spaniards taught them how to dress.
@@cisa_m No, I'm simply pointing out what a huge, click-baity overstatement it is to claim Spain as the first significant fashion center without any qualification (ie first in the entire world, in all of human history? Because that's what the statement means on its face).
This is about Spanish fashion, yet I hear Portuguese sounds and pronunciations...
hor hor hor hor hor hor hor hor hor horrrrr hor hor hor horrrrr hor hor hor horrrrrr
Farting-gale winds
It's too bad that the Spanish didn't bring fashion to the new world instead of diseases than wiped out entire nations of course Bane was not the only one but it sure did a b part
Who say it?? Spaniard send all their traditions to America. You are very uneducated.
Spain brought their fashion to their colonies and these colonies have their own version. The fashion shown here is mostly used by Spanish nobilities.
Bro, have you seen Mexican traditional outfits? They look basically the same as the Spanish ones.
Just to be precise , there were no colonies in Spanish America, they were vice-kingdoms. Thanks
Agh stop spreading BS about Spain, would ya?