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Great idea, I will add some information covering pH adjustment with acids in the description

Brewers often choose phosphoric acid over lactic acid for pH adjustments in brewing due to the following reasons:Flavor Neutrality: Phosphoric acid is flavor-neutral at typical usage levels, meaning it doesn't introduce any off-flavors or alter the taste profile of the beer. In contrast, lactic acid can add a slight tangy or sour note when used in larger amounts, which may be undesirable in some beer styles, especially if you're not brewing a sour beer.Cost and Availability: Phosphoric acid can sometimes be cheaper and more readily available, especially in larger quantities for brewers looking for cost-effective solutions.Concentration: Phosphoric acid is usually available in higher concentrations (often 85%), so brewers can use less of it to achieve the same pH adjustments, which might be preferred for precision and efficiency.Water Chemistry: Phosphoric acid doesn’t contribute significant flavor ions to the water profile. While lactic acid contributes lactate ions, phosphoric acid introduces phosphate ions, which are generally more neutral in impact on the final beer's chemistry.

@@Ping_Localh0st127 Do you believe that at a 5 gallon brew level it makes a difference? I have never noted an off flavor using lactic acid. I do not usually use more than 3ml (max) at a time in my recipes. If I need further pH lowering I will add some acidulated malt to the grist. Also never causes me an off flavor.Maybe I just cannot detect it. Cheers!

@@SCROWMD I brew 5.5g batches.. Using lactic acid in amounts above 5.5 mL (or roughly 1 mL per gallon) may start to impart a noticeable lactic or sour flavor. If you need to add more than this to reach your target pH, consider using phosphoric acid instead, as it will have a more neutral impact on flavor.

I like your videos, always good information for us homebrewers, thank you. It is obvious to me you have had a brewing and chemistry education. I missed a brewing water chug at ending. I get it, you're standard message is important, and not chugging maintains it's credibility.

I am glad they are helpful! And that is such a good idea! I wish I had been clever enough to think of doing a brewing water chug at the end

I use , 50ca /50,chloride /80 sulfite ? Does that sound ok for a west coast ?

That water profile looks great to me! That should be sufficient sulfate to enhance the hops. If you are happy with how your IPA turns out, I wouldn’t change it at all.

Thank you!

I will try to work one in soon!

Sorry about that, I accidentally put the percentage of Special X I used in my original recipe. For Carafa II, I would keep it around 3.2 oz, or 2%.

Thank you! I am sorry you are absolutely correct, this afternoon I will add all of the temperatures and their conversions into the description of this video. I will respond in this thread once I’m done!

@@thebeerjunkies1 thank you for that. It is a strange world we live in where within some areas we just cannot come to a standard. When I grew up in Aus the temperatures were in Fahrenheit and then one day the elected government changes it all on us including our money, distance and everything else. The one I just can’t get used to as a tradie was the torque settings and pressure settings. It is still foot/ lbs and PSI to me..😃

The temperatures are all added in the bottom of the video description! I agree, I wish everything was consistent. I am very familiar with metric since it is what I used in school, but I am so used to dealing with imperial here that sometimes I forget. From now on I will try to remember to include the metric measurements in the videos along with imperial.

@@thebeerjunkies1 ♥️

A drop in efficiency is always so frustrating! If you haven't already, I would double check the mill gap width. I noticed a significant drop in one of my mashes a couple of months ago, and when I checked my mill the gap had somehow doubled!

Mostly because this is the method we've always used and at this point I know exactly what to expect with it. Also, since we don't have rakes, we would have to stir once all of the brewing water is mixed in, so we prefer to do it all in one go.

If you would like to, send me an email at brady@thebeerjunkies.com and we can try to work through some things to get that pH and water profile under control!

That’s right! My secret weapon

@@thebeerjunkies1 Another great video, cheers. I have been wet conditioning my grain pre-milling, helps maintain intact husk great for the lautering and grain bed recirculation.

Nice! I would love to try conditioning my grains. Have you noticed better efficiency and quicker conversion times compared to dry grist? And do you condition yours by steeping?

@@thebeerjunkies1 I brew with a single system, Brewzilla 35 and 65, I find that the husk is out of the way and the wort can get to the starches better. I use a spray bottle and moisten to 2% approx, 2-3 Oz per 5 gal batch.I get 75% mash efficiency on the system.

Thank you! You don’t necessarily have to do a full 60 minutes, once conversion is finished you can begin mash out. You can use the Iodine Test to ensure that you have completely finished conversion by adding a couple of drops of iodine to a small sample of wort. If conversion is not complete, it will turn dark blue or black. If it is complete, it will be either clear or a shade that is very similar to the color of the wort.

Everyone really liked this. Exactly what I was looking for in a pale ale.

Great! I am so glad to hear that it turned out well.

That is exactly right, lagering is holding the beer at near-freezing temperatures for upwards of 12 weeks. It cleans up flavors by reducing lactic and acetic acids, acetaldehyde, and diacetyl. If you are using a traditional lager yeast it is highly recommended to perform this step, but you can shorten the length if you want. There are some new high pressure lager yeast strains that ferment at 67F under 15 psi and do not require a lagering period.

Thank you! I forgot to mention that I add a small amount of canning salt when I need to add sodium