In 41 years of using my Shopsmith(s) [all 500s] I never knew about the insert being bowed. One reason I love this page...I learn something new nearly every time!
It's always there little things that make for precision work and great tool functionality. One of the beauties of SS equipment is the fact that the engineers paid very close attention to the little things. Thank you, Scott, for another very simple but extremely helpful video. With all the new owners that are picking up used equipment, your presentations are priceless. Have a great week, Glen
Cool stuff. I was introduced to Shopsmiths 60 years ago when my Dad brought home a 10-ER. That machine made a lot of sawdust. Then in 1981 he got a Mk V 500 which I inherited. Just finished a complete rebuild of a 1958 Greenie 'basket case'. I've learned ever so much from your videos. Seems I spend more time watching and learning than I do making sawdust. Many thanks.
Scott… using the ‘Toolbox’ to bow the insert was worth the price of admission!!! My dado insert is sloppy loose. I cut plastic shim stock washers for bushings. They are a pain in the tail to keep track of. Now, I can just tweak it and throw them away!!! I too, use masking tape to flush out my tempered fiberboard inserts. It works but isn’t without required maintenance. The tape compresses eventually. I think I’ll use the shim stock instead. Thanks for the explanation… and the tip!
Great info as always Scott! The little tip about putting the screws back where they belong almost deserves it's own video. It has saved me countless times when pulling apart a engine on the race team I work on (especially when you are dealing with high stress/tight timelines. Knowing where the nuts/bolts are saves soo much time!!)
Like others that have commented, I'm always amazed at how you know to point out all these little engineering features that are built into the Shopsmith. I love the videos so keep 'em coming! They really built a quality machine and I'm glad I have mine. Someday I'd like to see you comment on the hole in the middle of the Mark V 500 tablesaw fence. I heard you can use it as a spindle with the lathe center to cut circles, but I'd love to see you show that. Programming idea.....
Thanks for that. Yes, that's exactly what the hole in the Model 500 fence is for, when combined with the jigsaw. I kinda-sorta talked about that when I just a large circle with the jigsaw, but because I was using a 520 I had to add a pivot to an auxiliary fence.
I recall years ago being advised(by someone from Shopsmith) to use shims provided in the SS tuneup kit to level the table inserts. You are the first that I've heard who understood and explained the apparent "defect" of the table inserts. Another example of the superior design of the Shopsmith! Unfortunately, it seems that Shopsmith no longer carries the molding package including the insert... and they no longer sell the molding blades or shaper cutters. Thanks for all the great videos!
Thanks James. I didn't realize that they no longer sell the insert, thought, I did hear that they no longer make the molder head. There's another company who makes a very similar molder head... I'll have to track them down. Scott
Found it! The company is Corob and this is their cutter head: corobcutters.com/molding-heads-1/mhkhd50 It is not quite interchangeable with the Shopsmith molder head, but when combined with Corob's cutters it appears to be a fine alternative. Scott
Scott, thanks for the information. I learned a lot. I especially like the tip on using tape as a shim on the zero clearance insert! I am amazed that you are able to continue to put out these videos while still having a full time job and a new to you house!!!
I learned a couple things today. Thanks, Scott! I bought a set of the Masonite inserts and like them since my SS insert is bowed the wrong way. I’ll have to fix that.
@@johnrice6793 it was the metal insert that was bowed the wrong way. I like the Masonite inserts. But if I can fix the Shopsmith one I certainly will. I’ve been using one of the Masonite ones as a zero clearance insert and that’s been great.
@@timbo389 The masonite inserts are very good. My comment to Scott was about the upgrade they made after I got in touch with them. They’re a very good company. The SSmith inserts do (somehow) lose the intended bow. I’ve used my foot and a wood shim to get mine back.🤓👍👍
Another informative video Scott! Some time back I read or seen in a video to cut the tenon shoulders first when using the tenoning jig. While I didn’t question why at the time Chad’s comment about the dip in the insert plate center made sense of this tip. Since the kerf of the blade is an 1/8th inch this leaves more than enough room to cut the cheeks and not damage the shoulder. I used the measuring gage you recommended for setting the jointer knives to check the dip in the center of my saw insert. It was 1/64 inch lower in the center than on the ends on my particular 520 table. Another example of knowing how things work explains why we do things a certain way. Thanks again.
I always thought that if there wasn’t a drill dent in your insert you weren’t using it right! 😂😝. Love this tip cause hardly anyone knows this about the insert!
The zero clearance insert - the dark brown - do have a bow built in (mine do). The wood is an oak - looks like red? Indeed they do function as my Shopsmith inserts do. And the (dark brown insert company) has improved them. I mentioned to them that repeated tightening/loosening or only tightening, the counter sunk hole would relax too much and the curve in the insert could not be removed, one end or the other would be proud…. An oak strip on each end where the counter sunk holes are is now standard. The information and history of the inserts is fascinating. Even though I recognized the need to adjust the screw tension I never put two and two together. I do enjoy your videos.
Amazing what new Engineering detail I learn when tune in. I’ve actual had a situation where I didn’t have the set screw on the arbor tight. What was amazing is I could still cut the wood, but the cuts were not straight. I chased that problem all day. I was amazed that nothing was damaged, not even the insert.
I never cease to be amazed by the engineering that goes into the shopsmith and it’s attachments. Never knew that. Great tip on shimming the 0 clearance insert. Glad you’re back to the Shopsmith theme. Also didn’t know that there was a difference between the sander and router inserts. I just wondered why my SS sander no longer fit the 510 insert and why the would have changed the diameter of the sander. Now I need the get another insert. This channel keeps costing me money. 😂
Scott, when I make zero clearance inserts I make them from 1/2” plywood and use the sander to fine tune the thickness. I also incorporate a riving knife into them.
I noticed the bow in mine but figured it was built in to help stabilize and secure the insert in place. SS engineering people were DEFINATELY on top of their game when they built this machine !! Thanks for another great video !!
Growing up using a model 500; it was a hard habit to break going from always tensioning the back insert screw last for table saw use, to tensioning the front insert screw last when I got my model 510 about a year ago.
I have been using my Shopsmith since '82 and didn't know this. I use homemade inserts for unique cuts like zero clearance. As always thanks for the info. I enjoy your channel.
Remember when I found mine bowed and thought it was wrong on the 1954. Now I just want to replace the whole table saw because of the safety and efficiency of the 520.
another great video Mr. Scott. I wish I could say I love the transformative nature of the shopsmith components. But despite having 3 of them, (thankfully I have a lot of space) I can't say that all the boxes of parts makes me happy. For those of us who are terrible at organizing our stuff (ME), a shopsmith is a special kind of hassle because those pieces need to go somewhere every time you fiddle and transform. I personally have not figured out a system that works for storing all this stuff. I think some sort of parts and accessories caddy on wheels is probably the best way. Might even need to be a tower of sorts to hold much of it. But once I do think it up, I'll be excited to share it.
@@richarddaly1953 Yep, been there and done that. I’ve just spent two weeks looking for my Johnson’s Paste Wax. Now that I bought a new can yesterday, I’ll find it. 😂
SS has them and I see them on eBay all the time. Here's another source for zero clearance inserts: amzn.to/3L2e5HC I've purchased several items from them and they have been high quality. Scott
Reading the manual it says: "The table insert has two clips on its underside. Put the blade into the insert's slot so the solid part of the insert is on the blade's tooth side (so slot to the back). Use a very small Phillips screwdriver to adjust the leveling screws through the holes in the insert so it is uniformly flush with the edge of the table." All in the bandsaw manual.
Hi Scott, good info I didn't know about the inserts. I do want to tell you that I have been working on a CAD drawing of your lathe tool holder. You did mention that you did not have a formal plan of that holder so I did one. I will build it and see if it works good and then pass it on to you so you can examine it, critique it, and to distribute to all your followers that would like to build it. I printed the drawing to full size so I can transfer the pattern right to the plywood I will use to make it. Should be easy peasy. If you do want the dwg file let me know how to send it to you. Thanks. Marcel D.
that was amazing. constantly impressed by discovering new really well thought out little SS things, who knew what lurked in the simple insert. on the "guard", have you done a vid on that? i always have mine off, and its not clear what it does. interested to know. or why i need it on.
Do you use a dust collector on the table saw. If you do, you will see how effective it is. You will need to adjust the chute to catch the most amount of dust. It’s amazing when using the dado blade or disk sander. Yes a video on it as well as the riving knife would be helpful and saw guard would be helpful.
@@daveschmitt6369 i do use the dust collector system, works well, but i dont have the "guard" bolted on. i took it off for some reason i cant remember, lost in the far reaches of SS time. taking another look next time in the shop. truthfully i have seen the part floating around in the part bin, but forgot what it was. good to be reminded.
I want to thank-you for quick response to set screw issue. I forgot to ask a question. I bought the Shop-smiths 0 clearance plastic insert and I used a brand new $25 plywood blade (so not to screw up a brand new $100 Shop-smith blade) and I believe it ruined my plywood blade cutting the slot. The blade now burns 1/4 “ ply when cut. If I did not do something wrong then it will be the last time I buy a Shop smith 0 clearance-insert. Comments please John
John, does it look like the blade is impacted with plastic? You might need to clean it with oven cleaner but otherwise, the plastic should not have duled the blade. I think you’ll be OK. Scott
A disadvantage to the "curved" insert is if you use it with the fence when making the cheek cuts for a tenon, or a rabbet on a board that's narrow in thickness. With the end or edge of the board sitting only on the table insert; the board starts out going down hill at the beginning of the cut, and finishes going uphill. You want the shoulder(s) to be nice and straight. That's why it's important to make shoulder cuts first, even if the cheek cuts are less than the thickness of the blade, and you don't think you need to make shoulder cuts for something that narrow.
Same, and I find the bow requires the extra attention is needed when squaring the table to a blade , drill or router bit. My 123 blocks and small incra square like to fall in the bow if I am not carefull.
@@woodshopnerdery I've been meaning to bring a base and test indicator home from work to see how much deflection there is in a typical Shopsmith model 500 & 510 table insert for a while now. Perhaps this might be the week...?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, the insert is below the table slightly, on my 510, start about 3 inches from the front all the way back including the center. The squaring tool can dip into low spot especially shorter items like 123 blocks or the small Incra square. And I do follow the instructions in the manual which are the same as in your video, tighten back first then the front until the front is level with the table. Same result on all my metal Shopsmith inserts. Just requires a little extra care.
So rather than shimming your homemade inserts the trick is to bow them. That said my "homemade" inserts are not "homemade" I had them laser cut from some acrylic sheet 🙂For the 500 inserts it's quite simple they are 12-15/16" long by 2-15/16" wide. The slot is actually 13"x3" I presume the inserts are just a tad smaller to make getting in and out easier. The holes are ⅜" and are centred ⅜" from the end. You can get a whole bunch laser cut in ¼" acrylic for less than the price of a single zero-cut insert from Shopsmith. Get them warm and just put a little bow in them. For shims, I recommend getting thin sheet stainless steel. You can get small quantities cheap on eBay.
@@MyGrowthRings If anyone is interested I could upload the DXF somewhere (not sure where) so they can get their own inserts laser cut. I am thinking of getting an insert cut from ¼" aluminium for use in drill press mode. I could then drill some holes so I can bolt down my vice.
Thanks. I’ve always cranked the screws tight and blamed Shopsmith for the unevenness. I’m assuming the the spring tension will keep the screws from vibrating out(?).
That's exactly right, as long as there's enough bow in the insert. It can be a little unnerving at first as you learn not to snug them down, but they do stay put. Scott
Wow! Did not realize these inserts had so much engineering behind them. As usual I was not installing them correctly. Hay Scott can you think of any reason why I am having a hard time with the saw blade set screw on my table saw coming loose on a regular basis. I just installed a new Shopsmith blade and new Shopsmith set screws per one of your videos I was having the same problem with craftsman blade I had installed. These are mounted on a 2002 520 with a standard power unit. I also have the same problem occasionally on my rebuilt 1962 greenie. Thanks
Wow! What an education I just got; all stuff I'm tickled to know, and may have figured out someday but I'd never live that long. Sadly, I went to your channel because I was looking for a follow up on the bandsaw tires you tried out. Have you done a wear and performance review on them?
Not really. They haven’t gotten much of a work out since we were in an apartment and I was forced to work out of my sisters basement. I’m still pretty confident that the Blue Max version is the better choice.
In my case I can say without reservation that it wasn't me! This machine was acquired from a friend of a friend who was recently moving out of the area. The spot in the insert is small potatoes compared to other issues it had! Scott
Could a person use thread tape to help keep the saw blade set screw tight? Don’t laugh just thinking outside the box to prevent attempting to drill &tap a hole in a round object. John
Hey Scott, you may biased but I’m curious. I have all the standard wood machines sans a joiner and I’ve always liked the look of SM’s but have never even been around one. I’ve always held a believe that it would be a pain to re-adjust for another process and that tolerance’s would not be that tight. I’m I just a victim SM rumors?
I think yes, but I would also be lying if I didn’t acknowledge that standalone tools can be convenient. When you walk over to your tablesaw to do dadoes, the conversion from a sawing operation to dadoing can take a few minutes. With the Shopsmith it takes seconds. However, when I walk over to my Shopsmith to do dadoes it may currently be set up as a drill press, but thankfully the conversions take place very quickly. Shopsmith tools do require a change in your order of work, but that is certainly not all bad. Owning one did organize my shop work.
I have to admit that I'm not sure. Some did have a slight curve, but I'm not sure if that was designed in or just serendipity. There's a chance that they would need a little tape. Scott
In 41 years of using my Shopsmith(s) [all 500s] I never knew about the insert being bowed. One reason I love this page...I learn something new nearly every time!
Happy to be of service.
It's always there little things that make for precision work and great tool functionality. One of the beauties of SS equipment is the fact that the engineers paid very close attention to the little things. Thank you, Scott, for another very simple but extremely helpful video. With all the new owners that are picking up used equipment, your presentations are priceless. Have a great week, Glen
Thanks, Glen.
Cool stuff. I was introduced to Shopsmiths 60 years ago when my Dad brought home a 10-ER. That machine made a lot of sawdust. Then in 1981 he got a Mk V 500 which I inherited. Just finished a complete rebuild of a 1958 Greenie 'basket case'. I've learned ever so much from your videos. Seems I spend more time watching and learning than I do making sawdust. Many thanks.
Scott cannot tell you how valuable these videos are, thank you.
So glad to hear it, Larry!
Scott… using the ‘Toolbox’ to bow the insert was worth the price of admission!!! My dado insert is sloppy loose. I cut plastic shim stock washers for bushings. They are a pain in the tail to keep track of. Now, I can just tweak it and throw them away!!!
I too, use masking tape to flush out my tempered fiberboard inserts. It works but isn’t without required maintenance. The tape compresses eventually. I think I’ll use the shim stock instead.
Thanks for the explanation… and the tip!
Thanks for chiming in. Yeah, masking tape isn't the perfect solution, but it's easy enough to replace so it's what I use. Scott
Glad to get back to ShopSmith videos. Thank you. Now I'm headed out to my shop to remove the masking tape from my saw table. Thanks again!
HA!
Great info as always Scott! The little tip about putting the screws back where they belong almost deserves it's own video. It has saved me countless times when pulling apart a engine on the race team I work on (especially when you are dealing with high stress/tight timelines. Knowing where the nuts/bolts are saves soo much time!!)
Well, bless your heart Scott. We sure appreciate your channel.
Thanks, Mark.
Like others that have commented, I'm always amazed at how you know to point out all these little engineering features that are built into the Shopsmith. I love the videos so keep 'em coming! They really built a quality machine and I'm glad I have mine. Someday I'd like to see you comment on the hole in the middle of the Mark V 500 tablesaw fence. I heard you can use it as a spindle with the lathe center to cut circles, but I'd love to see you show that. Programming idea.....
Thanks for that. Yes, that's exactly what the hole in the Model 500 fence is for, when combined with the jigsaw. I kinda-sorta talked about that when I just a large circle with the jigsaw, but because I was using a 520 I had to add a pivot to an auxiliary fence.
I recall years ago being advised(by someone from Shopsmith) to use shims provided in the SS tuneup kit to level the table inserts. You are the first that I've heard who understood and explained the apparent "defect" of the table inserts. Another example of the superior design of the Shopsmith! Unfortunately, it seems that Shopsmith no longer carries the molding package including the insert... and they no longer sell the molding blades or shaper cutters. Thanks for all the great videos!
Thanks James. I didn't realize that they no longer sell the insert, thought, I did hear that they no longer make the molder head. There's another company who makes a very similar molder head... I'll have to track them down. Scott
Found it! The company is Corob and this is their cutter head: corobcutters.com/molding-heads-1/mhkhd50 It is not quite interchangeable with the Shopsmith molder head, but when combined with Corob's cutters it appears to be a fine alternative. Scott
Great information, Scott. I just learned so many things that I did not know. So glad you are doing Shopsmith videos again.
Thanks, John. Scott
Scott, thanks for the information. I learned a lot. I especially like the tip on using tape as a shim on the zero clearance insert! I am amazed that you are able to continue to put out these videos while still having a full time job and a new to you house!!!
Glad it was helpful and yeah, things are a little tight, but that's half the fun. Scott
I also keep an old prescription bottle in a drawer under my SS for screws and other small parts. I never thought to just put them back on the machine.
Also not a bad idea.
I learned a couple things today. Thanks, Scott!
I bought a set of the Masonite inserts and like them since my SS insert is bowed the wrong way. I’ll have to fix that.
Tim - read my reply to Scott. The company that makes the Masonite inserts is very responsive and make (me thinks) an excellent product.
@@johnrice6793 it was the metal insert that was bowed the wrong way. I like the Masonite inserts. But if I can fix the Shopsmith one I certainly will. I’ve been using one of the Masonite ones as a zero clearance insert and that’s been great.
@@timbo389
The masonite inserts are very good.
My comment to Scott was about the upgrade they made after I got in touch with them. They’re a very good company.
The SSmith inserts do (somehow) lose the intended bow. I’ve used my foot and a wood shim to get mine back.🤓👍👍
That was a great segment on a part of the SS that gets overlooked.
Thanks!
Another informative video Scott! Some time back I read or seen in a video to cut the tenon shoulders first when using the tenoning jig. While I didn’t question why at the time Chad’s comment about the dip in the insert plate center made sense of this tip. Since the kerf of the blade is an 1/8th inch this leaves more than enough room to cut the cheeks and not damage the shoulder. I used the measuring gage you recommended for setting the jointer knives to check the dip in the center of my saw insert. It was 1/64 inch lower in the center than on the ends on my particular 520 table. Another example of knowing how things work explains why we do things a certain way. Thanks again.
Thanks for checking that out. James.
I always thought that if there wasn’t a drill dent in your insert you weren’t using it right! 😂😝. Love this tip cause hardly anyone knows this about the insert!
I think there's a lot of truth to that statement.
The zero clearance insert - the dark brown - do have a bow built in (mine do). The wood is an oak - looks like red? Indeed they do function as my Shopsmith inserts do. And the (dark brown insert company) has improved them. I mentioned to them that repeated tightening/loosening or only tightening, the counter sunk hole would relax too much and the curve in the insert could not be removed, one end or the other would be proud….
An oak strip on each end where the counter sunk holes are is now standard.
The information and history of the inserts is fascinating. Even though I recognized the need to adjust the screw tension I never put two and two together.
I do enjoy your videos.
Thanks John. I’ll have to do a little expiration to see what inserts are out there. It’s been a while since I’ve purchased an aftermarket insert.
Welcome back Scott (to doing SS videos. This is very informative and a great video for a lot of us. Thanks
Glad you liked it and more to come.
Amazing what new Engineering detail I learn when tune in. I’ve actual had a situation where I didn’t have the set screw on the arbor tight. What was amazing is I could still cut the wood, but the cuts were not straight. I chased that problem all day. I was amazed that nothing was damaged, not even the insert.
Hey Dan. Yeah, that simple little detail has saved countless number of blades over the years. Scott
I never cease to be amazed by the engineering that goes into the shopsmith and it’s attachments. Never knew that. Great tip on shimming the 0 clearance insert. Glad you’re back to the Shopsmith theme. Also didn’t know that there was a difference between the sander and router inserts. I just wondered why my SS sander no longer fit the 510 insert and why the would have changed the diameter of the sander. Now I need the get another insert. This channel keeps costing me money. 😂
AH! That makes sense if you don't have both the shaper and the drum sander insert. Scott
nice info about the inserts and adjustment.
Thanks. I wish it had been my idea!
Scott, when I make zero clearance inserts I make them from 1/2” plywood and use the sander to fine tune the thickness. I also incorporate a riving knife into them.
Haven’t tried that but it sounds like a good idea.
Very smart. What do you use for a riving knife? The MicroJig version seems simple enough and would be better than nothing: amzn.to/3FOvQcI Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I generally use 1/4” Lexan
@@stewwolfe1 That’s a good call.
I noticed the bow in mine but figured it was built in to help stabilize and secure the insert in place. SS engineering people were DEFINATELY on top of their game when they built this machine !! Thanks for another great video !!
They sure were some sharp folks.
Just want to say thanks.
I appreciate that, Jesse. Scott
Thank you.....your videos are a treasure chest for SS users and wannabes.
I always thought if you didn’t have a drill indent in your insert you weren’t using it right!😂
Growing up using a model 500; it was a hard habit to break going from always tensioning the back insert screw last for table saw use, to tensioning the front insert screw last when I got my model 510 about a year ago.
Isn't it fully how little habits form?
@@MyGrowthRings Yep, for better or worse.
Great info. Thanks Scott.
You are welcome, James. Scott
Scott, you taught me something good today! I’ll go take the masking tape off my inserts …😎
HA!
An informative episode. Well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have been using my Shopsmith since '82 and didn't know this. I use homemade inserts for unique cuts like zero clearance. As always thanks for the info. I enjoy your channel.
Thanks, Michael. Happy to share something new. Scott
Remember when I found mine bowed and thought it was wrong on the 1954. Now I just want to replace the whole table saw because of the safety and efficiency of the 520.
Yeah, the 510/520 is such a step up from a 500. You'll never look back.
another great video Mr. Scott. I wish I could say I love the transformative nature of the shopsmith components. But despite having 3 of them, (thankfully I have a lot of space) I can't say that all the boxes of parts makes me happy. For those of us who are terrible at organizing our stuff (ME), a shopsmith is a special kind of hassle because those pieces need to go somewhere every time you fiddle and transform.
I personally have not figured out a system that works for storing all this stuff. I think some sort of parts and accessories caddy on wheels is probably the best way. Might even need to be a tower of sorts to hold much of it. But once I do think it up, I'll be excited to share it.
You aren't alone. I think those of us with multiple tools actually have it a little bit harder, because the parts do begin to comingle!
I built a 5 drawer cabinet under my saw (from scrap plywood) that just fits below the legs. It made all the difference in the world for me.
woodworking time is 40% looking for "where did i put that, it was just here"
@@richarddaly1953 Yep, been there and done that. I’ve just spent two weeks looking for my Johnson’s Paste Wax. Now that I bought a new can yesterday, I’ll find it. 😂
@@richarddaly1953 So true. I used to have a sign in my shop that said "A place for everything and everything on the work bench". It's been misplaced!
I need a dado insert and a zero clearance for my 510. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
SS has them and I see them on eBay all the time. Here's another source for zero clearance inserts: amzn.to/3L2e5HC I've purchased several items from them and they have been high quality. Scott
Always something to learn. Now, how about some info on that little circular insert on the BS! Face toward or away, sunken down, or flush?
Reading the manual it says: "The table insert has two clips on its underside. Put the blade into the insert's slot so the solid part of the insert is on the blade's tooth side (so slot to the back). Use a very small Phillips screwdriver to adjust the leveling screws through the holes in the insert so it is uniformly flush with the edge of the table." All in the bandsaw manual.
I think I covered that in a video somewhere.
Dwight, it sounds like Mark has an early SS BS without the clips.
Hi Scott, good info I didn't know about the inserts. I do want to tell you that I have been working on a CAD drawing of your lathe tool holder. You did mention that you did not have a formal plan of that holder so I did one. I will build it and see if it works good and then pass it on to you so you can examine it, critique it, and to distribute to all your followers that would like to build it. I printed the drawing to full size so I can transfer the pattern right to the plywood I will use to make it. Should be easy peasy. If you do want the dwg file let me know how to send it to you. Thanks.
Marcel D.
Very cool! You can email me any time at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail.com
Looking forward to that becoming available😊
that was amazing. constantly impressed by discovering new really well thought out little SS things, who knew what lurked in the simple insert.
on the "guard", have you done a vid on that? i always have mine off, and its not clear what it does. interested to know. or why i need it on.
The guard that is bolted to the table’s tie bar? It helps to contain dust and to keep fingers out of the saw blade.
Do you use a dust collector on the table saw. If you do, you will see how effective it is. You will need to adjust the chute to catch the most amount of dust. It’s amazing when using the dado blade or disk sander. Yes a video on it as well as the riving knife would be helpful and saw guard would be helpful.
@@daveschmitt6369 I think I did a video on that, but I can’t find it!
@@daveschmitt6369 Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/FBOzLpMLk_c/v-deo.html
@@daveschmitt6369 i do use the dust collector system, works well, but i dont have the "guard" bolted on. i took it off for some reason i cant remember, lost in the far reaches of SS time. taking another look next time in the shop. truthfully i have seen the part floating around in the part bin, but forgot what it was. good to be reminded.
I want to thank-you for quick response to set screw issue. I forgot to ask a question. I bought the Shop-smiths 0 clearance plastic insert and I used a brand new $25 plywood blade (so not to screw up a brand new $100 Shop-smith blade) and I believe it ruined my plywood blade cutting the slot. The blade now burns 1/4 “ ply when cut. If I did not do something wrong then it will be the last time I buy a Shop smith 0 clearance-insert. Comments please
John
John, does it look like the blade is impacted with plastic? You might need to clean it with oven cleaner but otherwise, the plastic should not have duled the blade. I think you’ll be OK. Scott
Scott yes it does I will try oven cleaner. How did someone as young as you get so smart?
John
@@patlyle2621 I started young and am piggy-backing on a bunch of smarter people I've had the pleasure to meet. That, and I'm not THAT young! Scott
A disadvantage to the "curved" insert is if you use it with the fence when making the cheek cuts for a tenon, or a rabbet on a board that's narrow in thickness.
With the end or edge of the board sitting only on the table insert; the board starts out going down hill at the beginning of the cut, and finishes going uphill. You want the shoulder(s) to be nice and straight. That's why it's important to make shoulder cuts first, even if the cheek cuts are less than the thickness of the blade, and you don't think you need to make shoulder cuts for something that narrow.
As usual you are absolutely right, Chad!
Same, and I find the bow requires the extra attention is needed when squaring the table to a blade , drill or router bit. My 123 blocks and small incra square like to fall in the bow if I am not carefull.
@@woodshopnerdery I've been meaning to bring a base and test indicator home from work to see how much deflection there is in a typical Shopsmith model 500 & 510 table insert for a while now. Perhaps this might be the week...?
@@woodshopnerdery Are you saying that the center of the insert is low?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, the insert is below the table slightly, on my 510, start about 3 inches from the front all the way back including the center. The squaring tool can dip into low spot especially shorter items like 123 blocks or the small Incra square. And I do follow the instructions in the manual which are the same as in your video, tighten back first then the front until the front is level with the table. Same result on all my metal Shopsmith inserts. Just requires a little extra care.
So rather than shimming your homemade inserts the trick is to bow them. That said my "homemade" inserts are not "homemade" I had them laser cut from some acrylic sheet 🙂For the 500 inserts it's quite simple they are 12-15/16" long by 2-15/16" wide. The slot is actually 13"x3" I presume the inserts are just a tad smaller to make getting in and out easier. The holes are ⅜" and are centred ⅜" from the end. You can get a whole bunch laser cut in ¼" acrylic for less than the price of a single zero-cut insert from Shopsmith. Get them warm and just put a little bow in them. For shims, I recommend getting thin sheet stainless steel. You can get small quantities cheap on eBay.
Great tips!
@@MyGrowthRings If anyone is interested I could upload the DXF somewhere (not sure where) so they can get their own inserts laser cut. I am thinking of getting an insert cut from ¼" aluminium for use in drill press mode. I could then drill some holes so I can bolt down my vice.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 Are you a member of the Shopsmith Users group on Facebook? They have a file section where it could be uploaded and shared.
Thanks. I’ve always cranked the screws tight and blamed Shopsmith for the unevenness. I’m assuming the the spring tension will keep the screws from vibrating out(?).
That's exactly right, as long as there's enough bow in the insert. It can be a little unnerving at first as you learn not to snug them down, but they do stay put. Scott
Well gee whiz! All the little details one doesn't know about.
The knowledge is all yours now. Scott
Wow!
Did not realize these inserts had so much engineering behind them. As usual I was not installing them correctly.
Hay Scott can you think of any reason why I am having a hard time with the saw blade set screw on my table saw coming loose on a regular basis. I just installed a new Shopsmith blade and new Shopsmith set screws per one of your videos I was having the same problem with craftsman blade I had installed. These are mounted on a 2002 520 with a standard power unit. I also have the same problem occasionally on my rebuilt 1962 greenie.
Thanks
If it's a new set screw, then the issue is the threaded hole in the arbor. A new hole can be drilled and tapped. Scott
Wow! What an education I just got; all stuff I'm tickled to know, and may have figured out someday but I'd never live that long.
Sadly, I went to your channel because I was looking for a follow up on the bandsaw tires you tried out. Have you done a wear and performance review on them?
Not really. They haven’t gotten much of a work out since we were in an apartment and I was forced to work out of my sisters basement. I’m still pretty confident that the Blue Max version is the better choice.
The difference might be is I know exactly who did it!
In my case I can say without reservation that it wasn't me! This machine was acquired from a friend of a friend who was recently moving out of the area. The spot in the insert is small potatoes compared to other issues it had! Scott
What's the little divot in the insert plate towards the headstock in the center for? I just assumed I messed up and hit it with a drill bit!
Nice catch. Listen closely at 6:48
Could a person use thread tape to help keep the saw blade set screw tight? Don’t laugh just thinking outside the box to prevent attempting to drill &tap a hole in a round object.
John
Try it!
I've had a SS for 35 years, just did the DIY PowerPro upgrade last year, felt good, saw this, feel like a noob - Sigh. ;-).
Ha! The good news is there's always something interesting to learn. Scott
Hey Scott, you may biased but I’m curious. I have all the standard wood machines sans a joiner and I’ve always liked the look of SM’s but have never even been around one. I’ve always held a believe that it would be a pain to re-adjust for another process and that tolerance’s would not be that tight. I’m I just a victim SM rumors?
I think yes, but I would also be lying if I didn’t acknowledge that standalone tools can be convenient. When you walk over to your tablesaw to do dadoes, the conversion from a sawing operation to dadoing can take a few minutes. With the Shopsmith it takes seconds. However, when I walk over to my Shopsmith to do dadoes it may currently be set up as a drill press, but thankfully the conversions take place very quickly. Shopsmith tools do require a change in your order of work, but that is certainly not all bad. Owning one did organize my shop work.
Do you happen to have item 555116 which is the sanding disc insert? The slot is a bit longer than the table saw insert. Shopsmith stopped making it.
I might. I’ll try to remember to check tonight.
@@MyGrowthRings Did you check?
@@StephenADraper Sorry, I did and I do not have an extra. Keep an eye on eBay,
Could sand the ends to create the needed arc?
Sure, as long as the center is the proper height.
Well… as I think about it, it would only work like the SS insert if it still had a slight curve to it…
Shopsmith no longer offers a molding insert.
That’s a shame, but considering they no longer offer a molder head, that would make sense.
Who knew?
Well, a couple of us did, but now we all know! Scott
Do the 0 clearance insert blanks for the 500 from shopsmith have the same curve. or do they still need shimming?
I have to admit that I'm not sure. Some did have a slight curve, but I'm not sure if that was designed in or just serendipity. There's a chance that they would need a little tape. Scott