Hey Scott, I just set up mortising on my vintage and near new Mark V. The mortising bits had wax on the from 1984. I reinstalled the Mark V table, as I have the hold down for that table. Wow, you are right about the downward pressure needed, I didn’t like the stress on the table. BTW, I picked up a set of the triple & single long handles. I’m glad I had them. I’m not sure I’m going to pursue the mortising on my Shopsmith, but I wanted to give it a try. Thanks for your video 👍👍
Scott all the comments on the SS web site trash the mortising attachment as junk. Claim as you demonstrated that it won't cut into the wood. I have always contended that SS needs a longer handle as part of the set. Look at the length of the handle on your Powermatic. After seeing your demonstration I think I will buy the mortising kit along with the longer handle kit from Mr. Beasley. Hope I got his name write.
It's not so bad once you get used to it and it's no more complicated than the mortising kit you'd find for any drill press. That said, I do like stepping up to my stand-alone mortiser, but it was an expensive unitasker. Scott
I thought I was doing something wrong, because I couldn't cut a mortise in oak. Looks like I'm not the only one. I think before I buy a longer handle, I will put the second handle from my second Shopsmith on and try it with both hands. That will have to wait till after surgery and recovery, but you might try it on the cheap shots to see if it works. I can get a handle for a lot less than the purple one. Great instruction on sharpening, mine is rusty (I inherited it that way) haven't figured out how to sharpen it. I will sharpen it and try it, though, I'll probably purchase the new style mortise and tenon bits in the future. Keep up the good information.
Absolutely well done. No doubt you’ve noticed the light. The information within this video is very good. You know some time ago I purchased (I don’t know why) a telescoping leg for a 500 table system. Shopsmith has them available, I decided (I guess) I needed another leg.... Anyway, the clamp is slotted - the leg can be positioned anywhere along the 510/520 saw table. So one leg does it all. Most excellent video. Keep ‘em coming. 👍👍
I've had my SS mortising kit since about 1992 but I could never get the chisels to enter the wood. Even soft woods were impossible. Didn't want to bend or break something so I just gave up. Why SS never sharpened their chisels (including lathe chisels) always bothered me. Watching you practically ream your chisel with your diamond cone convinced me that I haven't been sharpening mine properly. Will try this again when I get the chance. One idea - would waxing or applying soap to the chisels help them enter the wood more easily? The amount of effort required, even with sharp chisels and your big honking handles, suggest that the chisels could use all the help they can get.
Are used to work in an architectural millwork shop, where we built doors and windows, and we used to use candles made of paraffin and blocks of paraffin to keep the mortising chisel’s gliding smoothly. The one caveat is that very few Glooze will stick to it, so you need to be careful where and how you use it. I think you’re better off using a dry lubricant such as bow shield T9 the other one that used to be called topcoat, but I can’t remember the new name! I did a video on Shopsmith lubrication and I believe I link to those products in described where and how are use them. Scott
Wonderful video. I enjoy seeing videos on the not so common tools of Shopsmith. I would enjoy your take on all the accessories Shopsmith has available.
The only Shopsmith accessory that I’ve had trouble with (and I’ve had trouble times three) is the two position lathe tool rest. It’ll break. The casting is filled with voids. Consequently I purchased the universal tool rest. It’s cast iron. It’s built hellferstout. It really works.
@@MyGrowthRings Shopsmith asked that I photo the broken rest and I did, I received a new one. Within a few hours that one broke. I ordered a new one. Few days later it was toast. I had the original rest, one position and used it. Those are casted well. Never broke one. After the 3 test ordeal I purchased the Universal Rest. It works. It was the quality of Shopsmith products that encouraged me to purchase more than one two position rest. It was unbelievable that they’d have and promote a substandard product. I’m sure they broke during bowl turning, a “catch”. It was the breaking two position rests that prompted me to purchase the first speed reducer, hoping to alleviate the problem. But it’s the combo of the speed reducer, and Universal Rest that’s allowed me to turn my largest bowl of nearly 16” diameter. One rest broke where the adjustable handles are. One was where the rest insert and the rest body meet. Another was a crack in the body and breaks of the before mentioned. There were others who displayed photos of broken rests too. Perhaps they’ve made a new mold or revisited the casting technique. I haven’t seen of late any broken two position lathe rests. I’m hoping they took care of that problem.
1) On my very first Shopsmith I purchased in 1981 (a 500), I used a 2x4 between the table and the floor to give it stability. Worked like a charm. 2) I first heard about the dime spacing from a video by Nick Engler on how to set up the mortise (and is what I use) and I have heard other folks talk about a nickel spacing on other mortice machines and my comment is that I have a 5 cents difference with my setup.
Ha! Yes, the spacing of a dime was a common one, and with the style of chisel and bit that Nick used when he worked at Shopsmith that was the correct spacing. I would guess that with Japanese-style chisels and bit it is closer to a nickel. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Scott, this demonstrates why you have a 24" or so handle on a dedicated hollow chisel mortising machine. Don't really want to admit it, but I have a pipe I put around a spare handle. I've been using it for over 30 years without any issues. Great videos!
Another great video Scott. Great tip on the spacer support block for the carriage; I'll bet that works better than the support leg (555627) Shopsmith sells for this. It has been a few years since I used my hollow chisel mortiser on my Mark V. I used it quite a bit before but didn't enjoy it. Wished I thought to look for aftermarket chisels like you show here. It could have made all the difference in the world in how mine performed. I finally gave up and bought a Domino. Had I seen your video first I might have persisted with my Shopsmith Mortiser. Also those long handles from Geoffrey Baker sure would have made it a lot easier as well!!!
Scott, you did it again with another fantastic instructional video. I am not interested in mortising with my Shopsmith, but I am interested in how to best stablize the machine when using it in drill press mode. Your tips for doing this were excellent, and I will be using them the next time I use the drill press. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
I just bought an old shop smith (500) and it came with a box of bits and bobs. I had no idea what some of them are…but now I know! Mortising kit (minus the chisels). Honestly it looks like a pain to set up, and I think I’m more likely to use a router to cut the mortises (finishing them with a chisel) but maybe this is a case of “don’t knock it till you’ve tried it”. Anyway thanks for the video, super helpful.
Decades ago on the 500/510 I cut a 2x4 to comfortable drilling height, angled the ends to rest flat on the floor and underneath, front, of the table and it nestled into the arch in the center of the leg giving me no flex.
I have used my 500 to do this with a 3/8th I bought from Shopsmith but it never worked very well. I thought the chisel was sharp from SS. I’ll get a cone then try again. If not I may try the Japanese style you spoke of (after sharpening). If none of that works, Forster bits and chills or just make round corner floating splines as I’ve done a few times before (no way can I afford a Domino).
There are always three issues with hollow chisel mortising on any model Shopsmith 1.) The chisels don't come sharpened, 2.) The table flexes and 3.) The quill lever is too small/weak. In the end there's nothing wrong with slot mortises and floating tenons. Scott
Thanks for another informative video Scott. I will be using your PVC hack on more than just the mortising chisel(s). Have a couple questions. 1) Does the sleeve you used around 15:30 come with the mortising package or is it something extra you purchased? 2) will you be showing the set up for the older style in the mid-week "Stumped? Q & A" ?
At about 15:50 on you video you show attaching that black "thing" (you didn't say the name) that actually holds the morticing shaft. Before I knew what I was doing I bought a set of morticing bits that have a shaft that is .741 while the one that actually fits is .6. Can I get a "black thing" with a hole that will fit my new set?
On the Shopsmith mortising set that part is called the “Adjustable sleeve” and it is inserted into the “Quill attachment” or “Yolk”. I suppose the answer to that question would be to reach out to the manufacture of the part to see if they have a fiveeights inch version available. I’ve never seen those parts sold separately but I have seen kits that include multiple sleeves.
Many years ago when at school the mortising machine there had a hammer action. I was always under the impression that this was essential and the reason you could not use a drill press as a mortising machine. A bit disappointing that the Shopsmith attachment does not incorporate a hammer action. Back in the day my father used to have a hammer action thing for his Black and Decker drill that you put between the drill and the chuck to turn it into a hammer action drill, so it's certainly possible to do.
I have worked in a number of commercial millwork shops I’ve never seen a mortising machine that worked that way. Very interesting thought though. I also only relatively expensive Powermatic stationary mortising machine that also does not have that feature. Thanks for giving me something to Google for the weekend! Scott
That’s very interesting. No, I can’t imagine Shopsmith going to the trouble of expense to it or do something like that. As a home shop machine and that we just had too much expense. Thanks for bringing it up though, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The way it was explained to me was that you use chisels with a mallet. There are lots of comments about it not working well in hardwoods so QED. You are going to need to keep the chisel razor sharp and it will dull quickly IMHO. I am not sure it would have been that expensive either. As I alluded back in the day with your Black and Decker electric hand-held drill with the Shopsmith style range of attachments you could buy (circular saw, orbital sander, jigsaw, etc.) was the D968 Rotary Hammer attachment. One could have simply engineered the mortisier to use one of those by elongating it a couple of inches. I have to say I had presumed that the Shopsmith mortising attachment included something to include a hammer action otherwise it is overpriced IMHO.
Scott, excellent video and love your delivery. At about 14:20 in the video you mention an older syle Shopsmith Jacobs chuck that works better with the mortising chisels. Can you provide the part # for this older style chuck and do you know if it is still available?
Scott, Great videos-- thanks much for your great work. With my Mk7 i have recently had the opportunity to do a large amount of overhead routing. As i watched this video, I was reminded of an issue I came across. You supported the table because of the extra down force of the mortiser.. The issue I came across was keeping the headstock from dropping incrementally as I was making cuts. I, like you did for the table, ended up supporting the headstock with a block. I probably know your answer, if it works, it works... any other suggestions?
Perhaps tightening the headstock lock tighter, but that is putting it at risk of damaging the tubes. I would think that would be the way to go, though. Scott
Thanks Scott, I found a mortising set in the equipment I inherited with my Dad's old Mark V and had no clue how it all went together. Not any longer thanks to your video. Is it possible for you to send a link for the lamp that washed out the image during the set up demonstration? That could be a good add to my machine as well as the hubs that I'll be looking into too. Cheers and Merry Christmas!
Happy to help. I linked to Geoffrey’s eBay listing in the video description and I’ll add a link to the lights. They are very handy. Merry Christmas to you too! Scott
Thanks Scott. I've always been a little disappointed with my Shopsmith in drillpress mode (because of the slippage issue). Your tip on stabilizing that problem has given me new hope and whets my interest in the quill feed handle kit. Does the 'kit' come with both hubs (and handles) - I can't find the answer on Mr. Bakers Ebay site? Love your videos. Thanks
Yes, I struggled to learn what was included too. You get two hub adapters and bit the long, single lever and the three lever handle. It’s a much better deal than it first appears. Check his eBay listing, which is linked in the video description. Scott
Not if you think you'll use it. In fact, scratch that hesitation. They sell used for very high prices so I don't see any reason for you not to take the plunge. Let me know what you think of it. Scott
Hey Scott I have the old SS 500 and never could get that mortising attachment to work, tried brand new chisel set still had the wax on it, adjusted it with the dime method and it just wouldn’t eject the chips out and would heat up. I don’t know what’s up with that, shouldn’t be that difficult
Is your chisel the Japanese style or the older SS style? The SS chisel has an oval shaped ejection slot, where the Japanese style tend to have a squared end on the slot.
@@MyGrowthRings no I bought these from ShopSmith years ago, I braced the table with a 2x4 and adjusted with the dime as Nick showed and just couldn’t get it to work. I adjusted it over and over and just seemed the pressure was crazy and wasn’t ejecting the chips out and overheating so I just put it back in the cabinet
Hey Scott I looked at ShopSmith but the chisel set doesn’t indicate the Japanese set and where can I purchase the quill levers you use? The large ones? I have the older Mark V I purchased in 1985
Geoffrey offers his handles on eBay: ebay.us/UtgBte Note, he doesn't always have his handles listed, so check back often. The Japanese sets are available from Lee Valley.
How about doing the ol' cheater bar trick and slipping a length of pipe over the stock Shopsmith quill handle? Haul away to your heart's content! Haven't actually tried it myself, but if it works on wrenches, why not on this?
i just got my mortising setup this weekend. Is there a reason this cant be done horizontally? It seems to work fine for me and the small stuff i usually do, but just wondering if theres any issues im not thinking of.
In theory, no, but you'll find that the clamp on the rear end of the fence won't be able to take the pressure, so at the very least you'll want to clamp a backer block behind it. You'll also want to butt the main table against a side support table and if you have a 510 or 520, slide the table tubes through to lock them together. I can not overstate the pressure you'll be exerting. Good luck and have fun! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings appreciate the feedback. I was trying to figure out what you meant by "the clamp on the rear end of the fence" when I realized that I had tilted the table to be perpendicular to the spindle, so the fence is only holding the work up and not taking any of the chiseling force. I definitely wouldnt do it with the table flat like that, seems like asking for trouble.
I see what happened. His listed on eBay ended and when he re-listed them it changed the link. I've linked to his eBay listings page, which should show everything he has listed at whatever time someone clicks: ebay.us/tdTwjQ
The best I've ever seen were the premium set sold by Lee Valley, and they have the long bits that we need for the Shopsmith set-up. The Shopsmith holder will only accommodate 5/8" shank chisels, so some of their larger chisels won't fit. I have a couple for my Powermatic mortiser and they are excellent. They are expensive, so I would only buy the size or sizes that I think I need, which is in fact what I did. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Is this the Lee Valley set you reference? www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/53252-premium-hollow-mortise-chisels-and-bits
Yes, those are the ones. They are rather expensive so I wouldn't buy the standard four piece set unless you need all four sizes. If I were needing 3/8" I might buy two of them. They also have a set from Taiwan that's not bad, but these are really worth the difference.
BTW, though they don't state this, the LVT premium sets are made in Japan by the company Nakahashi, who is known for making EXCELLENT mortising chisel and bit sets.
Thanks Scott. I see you you have one of the Flexible gooseneck magnetic lights. Those are great! But they are kind of washing out your video and making lots of detail. Might want to consider not using them in future videos.
Hey Scott, I just set up mortising on my vintage and near new Mark V. The mortising bits had wax on the from 1984. I reinstalled the Mark V table, as I have the hold down for that table. Wow, you are right about the downward pressure needed, I didn’t like the stress on the table. BTW, I picked up a set of the triple & single long handles. I’m glad I had them. I’m not sure I’m going to pursue the mortising on my Shopsmith, but I wanted to give it a try. Thanks for your video 👍👍
Scott all the comments on the SS web site trash the mortising attachment as junk. Claim as you demonstrated that it won't cut into the wood. I have always contended that SS needs a longer handle as part of the set. Look at the length of the handle on your Powermatic. After seeing your demonstration I think I will buy the mortising kit along with the longer handle kit from Mr. Beasley. Hope I got his name write.
Yeah, I get that. If people's only experience is with Shopsmith;'s chisels and bits and the stock quill lever I can see why they feel that way. Scott
Thanks again i trying to get info to restore my dads mark 5
Wow, that is a complicated tool Scott! Thanks for teaching us about it.
It's not so bad once you get used to it and it's no more complicated than the mortising kit you'd find for any drill press. That said, I do like stepping up to my stand-alone mortiser, but it was an expensive unitasker. Scott
I thought I was doing something wrong, because I couldn't cut a mortise in oak. Looks like I'm not the only one. I think before I buy a longer handle, I will put the second handle from my second Shopsmith on and try it with both hands. That will have to wait till after surgery and recovery, but you might try it on the cheap shots to see if it works. I can get a handle for a lot less than the purple one. Great instruction on sharpening, mine is rusty (I inherited it that way) haven't figured out how to sharpen it. I will sharpen it and try it, though, I'll probably purchase the new style mortise and tenon bits in the future. Keep up the good information.
That's sure worth a try.
Absolutely well done. No doubt you’ve noticed the light.
The information within this video is very good.
You know some time ago I purchased (I don’t know why) a telescoping leg for a 500 table system. Shopsmith has them available, I decided (I guess) I needed another leg....
Anyway, the clamp is slotted - the leg can be positioned anywhere along the 510/520 saw table. So one leg does it all.
Most excellent video. Keep ‘em coming. 👍👍
Thanks John, for the info and thanks for watching and commenting, as usual. It's always great to see your name pop-up on my notifications. Scott
Just watched it again, now that I have purchased the kit from the mothership. This is very helpful. Going to go dig some holes now.... thanks Scott.
Awesome! Have fun. Scott
I've had my SS mortising kit since about 1992 but I could never get the chisels to enter the wood. Even soft woods were impossible. Didn't want to bend or break something so I just gave up. Why SS never sharpened their chisels (including lathe chisels) always bothered me. Watching you practically ream your chisel with your diamond cone convinced me that I haven't been sharpening mine properly. Will try this again when I get the chance. One idea - would waxing or applying soap to the chisels help them enter the wood more easily? The amount of effort required, even with sharp chisels and your big honking handles, suggest that the chisels could use all the help they can get.
Are used to work in an architectural millwork shop, where we built doors and windows, and we used to use candles made of paraffin and blocks of paraffin to keep the mortising chisel’s gliding smoothly. The one caveat is that very few Glooze will stick to it, so you need to be careful where and how you use it. I think you’re better off using a dry lubricant such as bow shield T9 the other one that used to be called topcoat, but I can’t remember the new name! I did a video on Shopsmith lubrication and I believe I link to those products in described where and how are use them. Scott
Wonderful video. I enjoy seeing videos on the not so common tools of Shopsmith. I would enjoy your take on all the accessories Shopsmith has available.
The only Shopsmith accessory that I’ve had trouble with (and I’ve had trouble times three) is the two position lathe tool rest. It’ll break. The casting is filled with voids. Consequently I purchased the universal tool rest. It’s cast iron. It’s built hellferstout. It really works.
Sure thing! I'll get to them all eventually if you'll keep watching. Scott
John, I've seen photos of them failing but I've never experienced that personally. Are you turning spindles or bowls? Scraping or shearing? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings
Shopsmith asked that I photo the broken rest and I did, I received a new one. Within a few hours that one broke. I ordered a new one. Few days later it was toast. I had the original rest, one position and used it. Those are casted well. Never broke one.
After the 3 test ordeal I purchased the Universal Rest. It works.
It was the quality of Shopsmith products that encouraged me to purchase more than one two position rest. It was unbelievable that they’d have and promote a substandard product.
I’m sure they broke during bowl turning, a “catch”.
It was the breaking two position rests that prompted me to purchase the first speed reducer, hoping to alleviate the problem. But it’s the combo of the speed reducer, and Universal Rest that’s allowed me to turn my largest bowl of nearly 16” diameter.
One rest broke where the adjustable handles are. One was where the rest insert and the rest body meet. Another was a crack in the body and breaks of the before mentioned. There were others who displayed photos of broken rests too.
Perhaps they’ve made a new mold or revisited the casting technique. I haven’t seen of late any broken two position lathe rests.
I’m hoping they took care of that problem.
Very interesting. I had assumed it was from bowl turning but thank for confirming that.
I want that handle. I always use two standard handles together though. Defiantly want to get the Japanese style mortise bit. Thanks for the upload
If you do either of those upgrades you'll see the improvement immediately. Scott
Hi thanks for your videos, I personally like a slot chisel mortice bits, much easier and better looking
I agree.
Great idea for bracing the table!
Thanks. It certainly needed something.
1) On my very first Shopsmith I purchased in 1981 (a 500), I used a 2x4 between the table and the floor to give it stability. Worked like a charm. 2) I first heard about the dime spacing from a video by Nick Engler on how to set up the mortise (and is what I use) and I have heard other folks talk about a nickel spacing on other mortice machines and my comment is that I have a 5 cents difference with my setup.
Ha! Yes, the spacing of a dime was a common one, and with the style of chisel and bit that Nick used when he worked at Shopsmith that was the correct spacing. I would guess that with Japanese-style chisels and bit it is closer to a nickel. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Thanks Scott! I always thought I was just a weakling! Now I know more leverage is the answer!
Ha! There’s still hope.
Scott, this demonstrates why you have a 24" or so handle on a dedicated hollow chisel mortising machine. Don't really want to admit it, but I have a pipe I put around a spare handle. I've been using it for over 30 years without any issues. Great videos!
Glad to hear it. The cast base of the handle may eventually need to be replaced, but even then you are over $100 ahead of me! Scott
I'm actually using the three handled one, which is a lot stronger than the original one.
For sure! Yes, that steel hub is sooooo much better than the stock cast part. BTW, I really enjoy your channel! Scott
Thanks, I thoroughly enjoy yours.
@@stewwolfe1 Thanks.
Another great video Scott. Great tip on the spacer support block for the carriage; I'll bet that works better than the support leg (555627) Shopsmith sells for this. It has been a few years since I used my hollow chisel mortiser on my Mark V. I used it quite a bit before but didn't enjoy it. Wished I thought to look for aftermarket chisels like you show here. It could have made all the difference in the world in how mine performed. I finally gave up and bought a Domino. Had I seen your video first I might have persisted with my Shopsmith Mortiser. Also those long handles from Geoffrey Baker sure would have made it a lot easier as well!!!
It really does work well. I would also agree that without it the legs are actually counterproductive.
Scott, you did it again with another fantastic instructional video. I am not interested in mortising with my Shopsmith, but I am interested in how to best stablize the machine when using it in drill press mode. Your tips for doing this were excellent, and I will be using them the next time I use the drill press. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for that enthusiastic encouragement! I’m glad you found a takeaway. Scott
I just bought an old shop smith (500) and it came with a box of bits and bobs. I had no idea what some of them are…but now I know! Mortising kit (minus the chisels). Honestly it looks like a pain to set up, and I think I’m more likely to use a router to cut the mortises (finishing them with a chisel) but maybe this is a case of “don’t knock it till you’ve tried it”. Anyway thanks for the video, super helpful.
That’s the right spirit. We are fortunate to live in an age where we have a bunch of choices, but I agree, give it a try and you may like it. Scott
I have always wondered about this SS accessory, but now I know. excellent. thanks.
Happy to share.
Decades ago on the 500/510 I cut a 2x4 to comfortable drilling height, angled the ends to rest flat on the floor and underneath, front, of the table and it nestled into the arch in the center of the leg giving me no flex.
Smart. Sounds like you accomplished what the two legs on the 510/20 do but with far less set-up and flex. Scott
I have used my 500 to do this with a 3/8th I bought from Shopsmith but it never worked very well. I thought the chisel was sharp from SS. I’ll get a cone then try again. If not I may try the Japanese style you spoke of (after sharpening). If none of that works, Forster bits and chills or just make round corner floating splines as I’ve done a few times before (no way can I afford a Domino).
There are always three issues with hollow chisel mortising on any model Shopsmith 1.) The chisels don't come sharpened, 2.) The table flexes and 3.) The quill lever is too small/weak. In the end there's nothing wrong with slot mortises and floating tenons. Scott
Thanks for another informative video Scott. I will be using your PVC hack on more than just the mortising chisel(s). Have a couple questions. 1) Does the sleeve you used around 15:30 come with the mortising package or is it something extra you purchased? 2) will you be showing the set up for the older style in the mid-week "Stumped? Q & A" ?
Yes, that’s part of the Shopsmith mortising kit. I suppose I could show it, sure.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks
At about 15:50 on you video you show attaching that black "thing" (you didn't say the name) that actually holds the morticing shaft. Before I knew what I was doing I bought a set of morticing bits that have a shaft that is .741 while the one that actually fits is .6. Can I get a "black thing" with a hole that will fit my new set?
On the Shopsmith mortising set that part is called the “Adjustable sleeve” and it is inserted into the “Quill attachment” or “Yolk”. I suppose the answer to that question would be to reach out to the manufacture of the part to see if they have a fiveeights inch version available. I’ve never seen those parts sold separately but I have seen kits that include multiple sleeves.
Many years ago when at school the mortising machine there had a hammer action. I was always under the impression that this was essential and the reason you could not use a drill press as a mortising machine. A bit disappointing that the Shopsmith attachment does not incorporate a hammer action. Back in the day my father used to have a hammer action thing for his Black and Decker drill that you put between the drill and the chuck to turn it into a hammer action drill, so it's certainly possible to do.
I have worked in a number of commercial millwork shops I’ve never seen a mortising machine that worked that way. Very interesting thought though. I also only relatively expensive Powermatic stationary mortising machine that also does not have that feature. Thanks for giving me something to Google for the weekend! Scott
Well, that didn’t take long! A Wadkin DMV mortiser has that very feature.
That’s very interesting. No, I can’t imagine Shopsmith going to the trouble of expense to it or do something like that. As a home shop machine and that we just had too much expense. Thanks for bringing it up though, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The way it was explained to me was that you use chisels with a mallet. There are lots of comments about it not working well in hardwoods so QED. You are going to need to keep the chisel razor sharp and it will dull quickly IMHO.
I am not sure it would have been that expensive either. As I alluded back in the day with your Black and Decker electric hand-held drill with the Shopsmith style range of attachments you could buy (circular saw, orbital sander, jigsaw, etc.) was the D968 Rotary Hammer attachment. One could have simply engineered the mortisier to use one of those by elongating it a couple of inches. I have to say I had presumed that the Shopsmith mortising attachment included something to include a hammer action otherwise it is overpriced IMHO.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 Oh, for sure it’s overpriced!
Scott, excellent video and love your delivery. At about 14:20 in the video you mention an older syle Shopsmith Jacobs chuck that works better with the mortising chisels. Can you provide the part # for this older style chuck and do you know if it is still available?
I’ll have to check the chuck for the number, but they appear on eBay all the time. It’s a genuine Jacob’s chuck, where most of them are not.
Scott, Great videos-- thanks much for your great work. With my Mk7 i have recently had the opportunity to do a large amount of overhead routing. As i watched this video, I was reminded of an issue I came across. You supported the table because of the extra down force of the mortiser.. The issue I came across was keeping the headstock from dropping incrementally as I was making cuts. I, like you did for the table, ended up supporting the headstock with a block. I probably know your answer, if it works, it works... any other suggestions?
Perhaps tightening the headstock lock tighter, but that is putting it at risk of damaging the tubes. I would think that would be the way to go, though. Scott
Great video.
Thanks!
Scott fyi ShopSmith no longer makes available the Japanese chisels I asked about them Feb 1, 2023
Bummer. Lee Valley offers them in two different qualities.
Thanks Scott, I found a mortising set in the equipment I inherited with my Dad's old Mark V and had no clue how it all went together. Not any longer thanks to your video. Is it possible for you to send a link for the lamp that washed out the image during the set up demonstration? That could be a good add to my machine as well as the hubs that I'll be looking into too. Cheers and Merry Christmas!
Happy to help. I linked to Geoffrey’s eBay listing in the video description and I’ll add a link to the lights. They are very handy. Merry Christmas to you too! Scott
Thanks Scott. I've always been a little disappointed with my Shopsmith in drillpress mode (because of the slippage issue). Your tip on stabilizing that problem has given me new hope and whets my interest in the quill feed handle kit. Does the 'kit' come with both hubs (and handles) - I can't find the answer on Mr. Bakers Ebay site? Love your videos. Thanks
Yes, I struggled to learn what was included too. You get two hub adapters and bit the long, single lever and the three lever handle. It’s a much better deal than it first appears. Check his eBay listing, which is linked in the video description. Scott
Lost my tool rest for wood lathe work. About to spring for SS universal tool rest plus set of 3 rests. Am I crazy? Want to turn bowls.
Not if you think you'll use it. In fact, scratch that hesitation. They sell used for very high prices so I don't see any reason for you not to take the plunge. Let me know what you think of it. Scott
Hey Scott I have the old SS 500 and never could get that mortising attachment to work, tried brand new chisel set still had the wax on it, adjusted it with the dime method and it just wouldn’t eject the chips out and would heat up. I don’t know what’s up with that, shouldn’t be that difficult
Is your chisel the Japanese style or the older SS style? The SS chisel has an oval shaped ejection slot, where the Japanese style tend to have a squared end on the slot.
@@MyGrowthRings no I bought these from ShopSmith years ago, I braced the table with a 2x4 and adjusted with the dime as Nick showed and just couldn’t get it to work. I adjusted it over and over and just seemed the pressure was crazy and wasn’t ejecting the chips out and overheating so I just put it back in the cabinet
Well howdy, I did not know you were a Tar Heel, I am in the RDU area. So eastern or western style BBQ?
If those are my only choices I would say eastern. If I can expand the choices I would select Texas brisket!
@@MyGrowthRings Now you are using fight'n words... brisket, pshaw🤣🤣🤣 I agree, I love brisket too, but I am an eastern BBQ man.
Hey Scott I looked at ShopSmith but the chisel set doesn’t indicate the Japanese set and where can I purchase the quill levers you use? The large ones? I have the older Mark V I purchased in 1985
Geoffrey offers his handles on eBay: ebay.us/UtgBte Note, he doesn't always have his handles listed, so check back often. The Japanese sets are available from Lee Valley.
That link to that quell handle in not working. I really like it.
Yes, he is having supply issues so he doesn't have them available at the moment. Keep checking back. Scott
He's just reposted it: ebay.us/UtgBte
How about doing the ol' cheater bar trick and slipping a length of pipe over the stock Shopsmith quill handle? Haul away to your heart's content!
Haven't actually tried it myself, but if it works on wrenches, why not on this?
You could, but the tip of the quill handle tends to deform and then the zinc hub fails.
Nice. What's the best speed using the new digital stock?
My Powermatic mortiser runs at 1725, which is just about ideal.
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you so much. I just found your channel and love it.
You are welcome and welcome to the channel. Scott
I have had no luck in getting a reply from Geoffrey Baker. I do want to buy his product. Is there another way to get in contact?
He is active here on UA-cam and in the Shopsmith Owners Facebook group. I would try him there.
i just got my mortising setup this weekend. Is there a reason this cant be done horizontally? It seems to work fine for me and the small stuff i usually do, but just wondering if theres any issues im not thinking of.
In theory, no, but you'll find that the clamp on the rear end of the fence won't be able to take the pressure, so at the very least you'll want to clamp a backer block behind it. You'll also want to butt the main table against a side support table and if you have a 510 or 520, slide the table tubes through to lock them together. I can not overstate the pressure you'll be exerting. Good luck and have fun! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings appreciate the feedback. I was trying to figure out what you meant by "the clamp on the rear end of the fence" when I realized that I had tilted the table to be perpendicular to the spindle, so the fence is only holding the work up and not taking any of the chiseling force. I definitely wouldnt do it with the table flat like that, seems like asking for trouble.
Got ya. Even so, you will find that the table will have some flex, so you might still want to find a way to brace it.
I can''t find Bakers website to check out the handles. Can you direct me please?
I see what happened. His listed on eBay ended and when he re-listed them it changed the link. I've linked to his eBay listings page, which should show everything he has listed at whatever time someone clicks: ebay.us/tdTwjQ
Thanks for another great informative video. Do you have any recommendations for after market chisels?
The best I've ever seen were the premium set sold by Lee Valley, and they have the long bits that we need for the Shopsmith set-up. The Shopsmith holder will only accommodate 5/8" shank chisels, so some of their larger chisels won't fit. I have a couple for my Powermatic mortiser and they are excellent. They are expensive, so I would only buy the size or sizes that I think I need, which is in fact what I did. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Is this the Lee Valley set you reference? www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/53252-premium-hollow-mortise-chisels-and-bits
Yes, those are the ones. They are rather expensive so I wouldn't buy the standard four piece set unless you need all four sizes. If I were needing 3/8" I might buy two of them. They also have a set from Taiwan that's not bad, but these are really worth the difference.
BTW, though they don't state this, the LVT premium sets are made in Japan by the company Nakahashi, who is known for making EXCELLENT mortising chisel and bit sets.
Thanks Scott. I see you you have one of the Flexible gooseneck magnetic lights. Those are great! But they are kind of washing out your video and making lots of detail. Might want to consider not using them in future videos.
Yeah, I suspect the bigger issue is that I need to add more light everywhere else!