A 10-minute video on waxing a Shopsmith Mark V? Yep. If that sounds like more time than you'd like to invest in a video on the subject, perhaps you'll enjoy one of my other unnecessarily long videos!
I recently bought my used Shopsmith Mark V 500, I believe, from my former truck driver colleague who became disabled & can no longer use it. It needs a good cleanup, lube, and proper adjusting. I am doing lots of reading of the manuals, videos, but mostly your videos, Scott. I have never owned one of these, and I will not even plug it in until I feel safe enough with my newfound knowledge from you and others. Looking forward to it and possibly adding planer, jointer, scroll saw, etc. I respect you for leaving videos with mistakes intact to show us what not to do. It also shows integrity. We can learn from mistakes, even someone else's. Thanks! Brian
Hey Brian. Did you get the books that originally came with it? If not, I strongly reccomend picking up a copy of "Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone". There have been several versions of it, so make sure you get one that is roughly the same age as you tool to make sure that it's as applicable as you can get. You can find them on eBay: ebay.us/3JBudy Scott
i am so thankful that you covered this information before I waxed my Shopsmith! Well, better said, I found your presentation on waxing before I waxed my Shopsmith, and I am thankful for your video.
Glad to hear it. Ow the issues is that Johnson has discontinued their paste wax, so I now suggest you use Minwax or Brewax. There’s another brand out there but I can’t recall it. The most important thing is to look for carnuba as a main ingredient and avoids any that mention silicone. Scott
I have just refurbed my Shopsmith Mark V 520 that has been sitting dormant for the last 12 years and was in very bad shape. Thank you for all the videos you've been putting out here on youtube. They have been invaluable in it's rejuvenation.
@@MyGrowthRings I just finished it up and go it all back to running, polished and lubed. all functional. had to replace quill which had frozen arbor and frozen blade but was a piece of cake with you instructions. thanks again and keep it up.
Carnauba comes from the palm fronds (leaves) which are cut from a specific palm tree that grows in the wilds of northern Brazil. It is still a very artisanal process where the fronds are harvested manually just after the rainy season using long poles with a flat sickle like cutter on the end. Then they are dried for about a week, run through a machine or scraped to extract the carnauba dust that coats the leaves. This is then further refined by boiling in large iron vats and allowed to cool in troughs which takes about a week. The wax is now broken into chunks and sold in large sacks.
Hey, Scott fellow Shopsmither here... I live "just down the road" from you in Sanford, NC. VERY glad that I found your channel. Wanted to mention that the demise of Johnson paste wax can be overcome. As you mentioned, Nick Engler presented a recipe for paste wax. I made up a batch but added a block of camphor. In short, the total cost per ounce was comparable with current waxes that are commonly available and is much more specific to my needs. There simply are no more $7 cans of wax out there... more like $15-$18 a can.
Excellent! Thanks so much. Guilty as charged of waxing and immediately moving headstock along to ensure slide ability. Now I know to wait a bit. I too use the same rag, and routinely wipe everything down that moves. All good tips Scott. Tks.
Hello Scott, I came across your videos a few days ago and have watched probably 10-15 already. I like them as you present them intelligently, simply and in an articulate manner. Thank you for your videos and I will be using some new tips and tricks with my Mark V 510. Thank you, Mohamed
Scott, I have been doing wrong for a long time. Thank you for the updated info. I have been using a pollishing pad to put the wax on. I will change me way. Thank you.
@@MyGrowthRings oh oh - now what do I do. I've been sliding headstock and carriage and quill over wet wax for long time now. Any way to fix the damage? This info is so helpful. Thanks.
@@hfmann1 Unless you are finding that it wants to stick to the tubes. If that's the case you can remove the headstock and clean the casting holes with the solvent of your choice. If it has built-up over time you'll notice an improvement immediately. The quill is even easier to remove and clean. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks - pretty intimidated to remove the headstock (PowerPro). But I'll work on just waxing them properly for a while and see what happens.
Hal Mann I understand that hesitation. I know the Shopsmith tools like the back of my hand and could assemble one from parts if I had to, yet, those weekend I need to take my pellet smoker apart to clear a jamb in the auger tube and it has me stressed! It’s just because it is something we have never done, but thousands of people who are less competent than you have removed their headstock. I suggest checking Jacob Anderson’s channel to see if he has a video on the topic. The only real trick is to loosen the headstock lock and keep loosening it until you can’t turn the know any further. That will lock the wedges in their proper orientation so you can get it back onto the tubes without having to mess with them. You’ve got this! Scott
What this guy says is right. I find that instead of using Johnsons paste wax I use Watco Natural Satin wax. It dries quicker and also gets hazy when it is dry. It is easy to see when it is ready to be buffed. It lasts a lot longer than the Johnsons. I learned this from a few different people in the furniture business. I started a wood workers club in 1985 and we did a had a lot of different people talk about how they maintained their machinery.
150$ for the Johnson wax now 😅. I went with staples brand carnouba wax. I didn't see your list of what you use in the description. Hopefully I purchased a good brand 😬😅!
Gosh I’m glad I found your channel. My Mark V is buried in the garage where I parked it while my wife was so sick. I’ll be binge watching these videos to refresh my knowledge. How’s Shopsmith doing these days?
Glad you made your way here. Yeah, life does have a way of sidelining things, doesn’t it? Like a lot of businesses Shopsmith got hurt by the pandemic shutdown, but they are back to work and I believe they are busy. They we going into their best seasons (cold weather) and I’m sure they are gearing-up. I stay in touch with a couple folks there and they are optimistic. Scott
Great advice, much appreciated, however placing a towel on the Carriage can avoid unnecessary scratches, dings and wear on the Carriage and Worktable top.
Great video Scott! Glad you left the quill extended out so the wax could dry. Inside the head stock could be one of the worst places for wax/saw dust buildup. P.S. It appears you've lost quite a few lb's. Looking good man!
Buffing after drying should be accented a bit more. When I bought my Shopsmith the dealer had cans of wax that were rich with carnauba. He called it Oil of Olay for machines. 20 years later I still have the can, it still smells great and waxing continues to make a big difference to ease of adjustment.
I'll leave that to others. I'm active on both the FB group and on the SS Forums and I would rather someone else post a vid the speaks to them rather than self-promoting. I appreciate the support though. Scott
People tend to interchange the words "set-up" and "change-over". Change-over is the process of changing the Shopsmith from one mode to another, such as changing from table saw to drill press. This of course is relatively fast and straightforward, using only the 5/32 allen wrench. Set-up is very different. For example; setting up the dado stack to cut a groove and placing it in the table saw. In this regard, set-ups on the Shopsmith are usually just about the same as you would have to do on any machine in order to accomplish a specific task.
I worked in an architectural millwork shop and brought my Mark V in to use on a few turning projects, and could set it up faster than any of the tools in that shop. I keep the blades that I use on their win arbor and even have a could dado stacks on their own arbors as well, so that helps to speed up the process. Scott
Hi Scott. I just purchased a mark v. I been watching your videos to learn every thing I can. The unit I bought was left in a sold house that the new owner wanted it gone. I got it for 100.00 dollars. But unfortunately no rip fence or miter hold handle or coupler was with it. On the plus it did have the bandsaw and jointer/planner. Any information on used parts would be appreciated sir. Thanks.
Wow, that’s a great price and welcome to the Shopsmith family. You can get all of those parts new from Shopsmith or used on eBay. Also, keep an eye out on Craigslist, in the Facebook Shopsmith Sales Group on on FB Marketplace, where you could even post an ad for free saying that you are looking to buy those parts. Good luck! Scott
Greetings from Raleigh! Great explanation of the process. I love my Mark V and try to treat it right! I love your videos and I'm trying to play catchup now.
Can you make some videos for people who purchase a used shopsmith and accessories. How to clean, oil-lube and adjust before using. What to look for, before starting.
Hey Ferrel, I believe I’ve already done many or most of those videos, but they are scattered throughout a bunch of vids. Check out my playlist titled “Getting the most out of your Shopsmith”. I think you’ll find most of them there. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have an unrelated question and I hope you don't mind me posting it here. I have been interested in using the Shopsmith for mortizing, but when I look at the accessory sold by a Shopsmith it gets horrible reviews. Do you have any thoughts or recommendations regarding that process or product?
Robert Hiday I’m sitting in the passenger seat on the highway to Paducah, Kentucky, so I’m sure you can imagine that any woodworking question is welcome! The Mark V has a couple issues when mortising: The chisels need to be sharper than the way they come, so you have to know how to sharpen and use them before you can use them. The stock quill handle is too short to get the proper leverage and the cast aluminum hub of the quill handle was not made for this type of force. There are a couple aftermarket solutions that might be worth considering. Table flex can be an issue, but that can be addressed several ways, depending upon your Shopsmith model. All of those factors ultimately led me to purchasing a stationary hollow chisel mortiser, but a router table can make excellent slot mortises as long as you’re not doing through mortises for Arts and Crafts furniture. I’m not saying that I couldn’t make one work, because I can, but they aren’t ideal. Great question. Scott
I genuinely appreciate the information I get from your videos as well as the pure enjoyment of watching and listening to an expert in a hobby that I enjoy. Do you have any thoughts on a product called Boeshield as an alternative to paste wax. My understanding is that Boeshield leaves a film of wax behind as the solvent evaporates. Thanks
Yes, I use T9 all the time, thought I haven’t found it to be a complete replacement for paste wax due to it’s lack of any build-up. The way tubes and the castings that slide on it have microscopic scratches and voids that cause drag or friction when we slide them, and paste wax does a much better job of filling these voids. That said, T9 is super fast to apply and if I just need to get things moving in the middle of a task I’ll reach for it. I did a video entirely on all the various lubricants I use on my Shopsmith tools that might be worth a look. Scott
Hi Scott, I really enjoy your videos and all of the knowledge and tips you share. Do I remember correctly that in one of your videos you talk about and demonstrate how to make sure the way tubes are properly aligned so the head stock and table carriage move freely. If I'm correct will you be so kind as to direct me to that video. I also have the sawdust sessions by Nick Engler and he shows how to do it, but again which video? It's tough getting old. 😅
I did say that in my “Before you turn on your Shopsmith” video. And don’t chalk this one up to age. It’s getting harder and harder to find old video because creators are being encouraged to put confusing titles and thumbnails on their videos. Thanks for your kind words and encouragement. Scott
Thank you so much for your videos..I feel they will help me a great deal when I get brave enough to fire up my MARK V 520 that I was blessed with by a good friend that gave it to me.. also..I need a sanding disk, a drill chuck and the lathe parts.. any leads would be appreciated. God bless
First off, welcome to the Shopsmith family and wow, that's quite a gift! I suggest getting plugged-into two Facebook groups (Yeah, I know!) One is the Shopsmith Owners group and the other is the Shopsmith Sales group. Also, jump into Shopsmith's own forum, which you can get to through their website at Shopsmith.com. As for parts, it's hard to beat eBay and Craigslist. The parts you need are redily available and if you are in a pinch and need to get some of them ASAP you can always get them at retail from Shopsmith or via this link on Amazon: amzn.to/38Ja3DC Some of the parts on Amazon are made by aftermarket suppliers, so be sure to check their reviews. Scott
I am a weird one, i like the routine maintenance on my Mark IV. It is something i guess that gives me a little zen time. And Johnsons paste wax is the supreme choice. i use it on a ton of other things too.
@@MyGrowthRings Need your help. i have the grey mark 5 500 i bought the 510 table upgrade- but what's the best way to make it work with the 500? any ideas that does not require destroying my original setup?
@@MyGrowthRings Oh my gosh, i cannot believe i forgot about this question Scott. What I did was purchase some second hand floating tables and tubes with the telescopic legs. I have been trying to figure out how to make these work for me on my Mark V 500. any suggestions?
never mind. you answered this question on the episode Yes, it is a weird idea! Filling in the Shopsmith Floating Table "Abyss". That is exactly what I needed to figure out. Thank you so much Scott.
You said Minwax works well as a substitute for the discontinued Johnson Paste Wax and you said you should look for a wax with carnauba wax in it. I looked up Minwax and the safety data sheet says it contains mineral spirits and paraffin but no mention of carnauba. I have a can of Minwax and it doesn't say what is in it other than mineral spirits. Briwax says it contains carnauba.
Hi scott just wondering ,I think i read in the manual ,that the minimun temperature for using a shopsmith,is around 50 degrees F, is there any harm in using the machine at low temps,,,great vid on maintenance.thanks Jim..
We used to live in Ohio and routinely used the Mark V at and below freezing. The key thing was to start it up each day with nothing attached and just let it run for 5-10 minutes to warm everything up. The belts really don’t want to move from their current oval shape, so you also want to make sure that you leave it each day set to a low speed. I’m sure there are other opinions out there, but has always been my approach. Scott
Hey, Scott! I've got an old Mark V that was pieced together by my brother... it's been neglected and is sitting in the garage. Any chance if I moved it down to my new woodshop that you'd come by and clean it up for me? maybe make a video on it? I haven't fired it up in probably 4 years. I think the speed control is messed up... and the fence won't tighten anymore. Looking forward to your reply. Love your video!
Good stuff. When I got my Shopsmith I gave it a good scrubbing and waxing, but I don't think it ever occurred to me to wax the quill. Given that it has been a few years, now would probably be a good time to maintenance it anyways. How often do you renew the wax on your machines?
ER Webster Back when I used it daily I would wax it once a week as part of scheduled routine maintenance. I use it less now, so it gets it whenever it feels like it needs it. Thanks for dropping in! Scott
My quill does not move well at all. Did not know about letting the wax dry before buffing off (duh, should have). I've cleaned the inside of the quill down to the bearing and oiled the splined shaft. Wondering if I need to run a flap wheel up in the casing.
You can do that, but be quick about it and not too aggressive. You really don’t want to remove any metal. Also, look for burrs around openings and the screw hole at the too. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings kudos. I think I had forced a burr into the keyway on the quill from the lock screw on the top. There was a pair or grooves extending from the screw to the outside of the casting. After filing the shoulders of the keyway it started moving much better. Some 600grit on the grooves to knock down any resultant burrs and it's better still. Could probably use more but this is good for now... Found it while tearing down my headstock due to a runaway speed control... Yup, control sheave bearing seized. Might be a good troubleshooting video since it's scary when it happens.
Good evening!! Just picked up a shopsmith 510 Mark 5 for 50 bucks. Most everything is included and im going through a parts check currently. I know im missing the Arbor and Arbor nut. Any suggestions on where to pick one up??
$50 is an AMAZING price! Congratulations. I just posted a couple links on my blog that might be of interest that relate to American-made aftermarket Shopsmith parts. Here's the link: shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2020/07/oem-shopsmith-accessories-made-in.html
When waxing the tubes, how do i remove slight surface rust from the tubes? After about 10 yrs my ex-wife let me have my shop smith mark vii, needless to say some parts are missing and some parts are really rusty. Any information you have on helping me get this shopsmith back in good working condition. Great videos.
If the rust is just slight I would go after it with WD40 and Scotch Brite. Once you get the rust off you'll want to get it waxed quickly, because the bare tubes will rust quickly. I did a video on de-rusting a SS jointer that might be helpful, but the tubes are even easier. Scott
Question first... Is there a way to tighten the table lock? After waxing the bars, my table will slowly slide when I use drill press mode. Slightly enough that at first I thought my quill stops were slipping, or my bits were maybe receding into the chuck. The answer was, the table was lowering. How do I fix that? The nut on the other side does not seem to be adjustable. Now gratitude... I have followed your waxing instructions and I love the results. I had sadly never done any maintenance to my Shopsmith in the 15 years I owned it until watching your videos. I have started oiling and waxing accordingly, and I finally got my bandsaw to a state where I trust it will actually do the jobs it is supposed to do. Thanks for these videos.
Yes, if you have a 510/520 you can tighten the carriage lock with a socket wrench on the back side, opposite of the lever. It’s a lock nut, but it is adjustable. Just make sure to make the adjustments with the machine horizontal.
I got an old model 500 mark 5, the guy I got it from. Has been using aircraft dry film lubricant, the graphite kind, would I need to strip all of that out before I wax?
I would sure think so. Google to see if your can uncover the solvent that they used with that dry lube and that's what I would use to remove it. Good luck! Scott
Not exactly, though I did do a video showing how to remove the headstock and from there, WD40 and a little ScotchBrite and the rest is pretty self explanatory.
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, Love your videos and info- I have a M7 that the carriage does not want to move after unlocking.... it acts like the clamps do not release.... is this from too much wax? if so, how can i get it out. Will the graphite trick for lubing the headstock work? Thx
Scott, I was just looking for some paste wax and found the Johnson Paste wax was discontinued at the end of 2021. Is Minwax a good alternative or something else?
Hey Scott, I inherited my Dad's old MK V that had been sitting in my brothers garage for the past ten years and she's pretty rusty. I believe that it all surface rust but in your opinion, whats the best way to restore the sliding parts to their original condition?
That’s a mystery to me, TC. The only time I would ever do that would be if I was removing tarnish or rust, and I doubt that I would be using paste wax as a lubricant. Scott
Great question. Oil attracts dust and eventually becomes a sticky mess. Wax is the preferred lubrication for most bare metal parts used in woodworking. Scott
is there anything wrong with using teflon dry lube ? I've been using that for a while now and when I open up my headstock to lube it up, there doesen't seem to be any build up. I also use it on the rack n pinion for the table and I noticed there is no more saw dust build up if ever. what's your opinion on this?
I've used it with mixed results. Shopsmith used to sell a dry lube product that they encouraged the Academy Instructors to use and promote on the way tubes and table tops, and most of us stopped using it. It was super-slippery at first but wore off very fast, which of course promoted more applications. Not only did it not perform as well as paste wax but it also looked cloudy, which made the way tubes look bad. You are right about it on the table rack and the carriage pinions, though. It does a fine job there. As for internally, I think that on the quadrant and worm gear it is perfect, and a much smarter choice than grease or even bee's wax, which was the choice at SS for many years. Not only does grease attract dust, but it also drips off if the motor is run for long periods, and then you're left with no lubrication. Lastly, I wouldn't use it on the sheaves and shafts as my long-term approach to maintenance, but as a quick fix it's ok. Scott
Silicone isn't compatible with much of anything... It isn't even compatible with itself...So if you see your bathroom or something with silicone and it leaks or comes out...You have to remove every bit of the old silicone. Silicone does not stick to itself. That is why you see mold behind the brand new silicone or an over cover so large it makes a new seal against the corner to prevent that. Yes this is off topic but use Urethane if you think it will ever need maintenance. Urethane sticks to itself so you CAN do what most people do with silicone and JUST remove the bad part and reseal.
Thank you for that info. I have a can of Minwax but it doesn't list the contents. I just watched your waxing video (excellent) and went looking for SJ Johnson paste wax. 10/2023 - 1 lb can $94.00 at Walmart!!! Do I hold up both hands when I buy it??
I moved and can’t find my can of Johnson’s Wax. Apparently S.C. Johnson has discontinued this old standby and I saw a one pound can offered on line for $125.00! Can you recommend a substitute?
Hey Lawrence, I'm a little out of my league talking electricity, but Shopsmith has some data on their site here: www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/specs.htm and I also know that there have been several conversation threads on this over at the Shopsmith Forums. Scott
Hi Scott, I have a new Mark 7. I am getting a lot of marks on my way tubes probably from over tightening the headstock. It doesn't feel like I'm over tightening but I'm getting a lot of dimples on the tubes. I have tried getting help from Shopsmith customer service, but this has proved to be not much help. It seems to me that the way tube wall thickness should be thicker, or their should be a stop like there is on the table slide, or a torque indicator. Any suggestions?
Yeah, they shouldn’t be dimpling, so you are likely overtightening. When you tighten the headstock, just tighten it to the point where you feel like you need to use a little more muscle, and that point give it no more than a quarter turn more. If it is your carriage that you think is the culprit, you can adjust that with a socket wrench by following the instructions in the set up portion of your manual. I think I did a video on this years ago.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks for the heads up Scott. I do have a wood shop but I use oil sparingly & primarily via rags and essentially keep it off the work which when your building crossbows is fairly easy. Otherwise: I just picked up my model 55555 1980 ShopSmith two weeks ago. I received it free along with a Shopsmith power-station. I am primarily going to use it as a lathe and drill press. Because I replaced the speed controller and sourced parts from multiple locations at the moment I am waiting on delivery of the geared handled that attaches to the speed controller otherwise I would have used it by now. All, in all I think I really like the machine. If you could would you please tell me which variation of the Mark V I have. All I could source was its year from the model number and I think it's to early for the 510. Thanks again.
Dude. Seriously, you HAVE to cut your videos. It's not even an option. Really, sincerely appreciate all your efforts on behalf of SS, but please, I'm begging you. If you aren't getting the support you need from SS to help you edit and make these more watchable, you're going defeat the entire purpose of even having them. SS needs to keep it going, and if they cant see that, heck with 'em.
I appreciate your concern and thank you very much for watching. I don’t receive any support from Shopsmith, you’re right, editing is a tough task and certainly takes more time is that shooting videos. Since I have a full-time job, travel a ton for my business, and I am active with a very large family, it’s unlikely I will be able to spend any more time editing. Thank goodness for the ability to speed up and fast forward videos! Scott
I was recently giving a “universal tool support” for my Mark V lathe. Can you direct me to an installation video? I feel like I need more info than the printed instructions that were provided by Shopsmith. Thanks!
A 10-minute video on waxing a Shopsmith Mark V? Yep. If that sounds like more time than you'd like to invest in a video on the subject, perhaps you'll enjoy one of my other unnecessarily long videos!
Most excellent. I’m positive unfamiliar owners appreciate (as I do) the frank and explicit nature of your videos. Well done.
John, Thank you for your kind words and encouragement. Scott
I recently bought my used Shopsmith Mark V 500, I believe, from my former truck driver colleague who became disabled & can no longer use it. It needs a good cleanup, lube, and proper adjusting. I am doing lots of reading of the manuals, videos, but mostly your videos, Scott. I have never owned one of these, and I will not even plug it in until I feel safe enough with my newfound knowledge from you and others. Looking forward to it and possibly adding planer, jointer, scroll saw, etc. I respect you for leaving videos with mistakes intact to show us what not to do. It also shows integrity. We can learn from mistakes, even someone else's. Thanks! Brian
Hey Brian. Did you get the books that originally came with it? If not, I strongly reccomend picking up a copy of "Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone". There have been several versions of it, so make sure you get one that is roughly the same age as you tool to make sure that it's as applicable as you can get. You can find them on eBay: ebay.us/3JBudy Scott
i am so thankful that you covered this information before I waxed my Shopsmith! Well, better said, I found your presentation on waxing before I waxed my Shopsmith, and I am thankful for your video.
Glad to hear it. Ow the issues is that Johnson has discontinued their paste wax, so I now suggest you use Minwax or Brewax. There’s another brand out there but I can’t recall it. The most important thing is to look for carnuba as a main ingredient and avoids any that mention silicone. Scott
I have just refurbed my Shopsmith Mark V 520 that has been sitting dormant for the last 12 years and was in very bad shape. Thank you for all the videos you've been putting out here on youtube. They have been invaluable in it's rejuvenation.
Odds are you’ll be able to bring her back into service. Good luck and thanks. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I just finished it up and go it all back to running, polished and lubed. all functional. had to replace quill which had frozen arbor and frozen blade but was a piece of cake with you instructions. thanks again and keep it up.
Carnauba comes from the palm fronds (leaves) which are cut from a specific palm tree that grows in the wilds of northern Brazil. It is still a very artisanal process where the fronds are harvested manually just after the rainy season using long poles with a flat sickle like cutter on the end. Then they are dried for about a week, run through a machine or scraped to extract the carnauba dust that coats the leaves. This is then further refined by boiling in large iron vats and allowed to cool in troughs which takes about a week. The wax is now broken into chunks and sold in large sacks.
Nice info. Thanks.
Hey, Scott fellow Shopsmither here... I live "just down the road" from you in Sanford, NC. VERY glad that I found your channel. Wanted to mention that the demise of Johnson paste wax can be overcome. As you mentioned, Nick Engler presented a recipe for paste wax. I made up a batch but added a block of camphor. In short, the total cost per ounce was comparable with current waxes that are commonly available and is much more specific to my needs. There simply are no more $7 cans of wax out there... more like $15-$18 a can.
Isn’t that insane? I really appreciate your support, neighbor! Scott
Excellent! Thanks so much. Guilty as charged of waxing and immediately moving headstock along to ensure slide ability. Now I know to wait a bit. I too use the same rag, and routinely wipe everything down that moves. All good tips Scott. Tks.
Thanks Mark. Just so you know, we’ve all done it! Scott
This is fantastic! My dad just gave me his Mark V. I think I am going to be spending a lot of time on your channel. Thanks!
That’s awesome! Happy to have you here, Steve. Scott
Hello Scott, I came across your videos a few days ago and have watched probably 10-15 already. I like them as you present them intelligently, simply and in an articulate manner. Thank you for your videos and I will be using some new tips and tricks with my Mark V 510. Thank you, Mohamed
Hey Mohamed. Thank you very much for your kind words and I’m glad you are finding the videos helpful. Scott
Scott,
I have been doing wrong for a long time. Thank you for the updated info. I have been using a pollishing pad to put the wax on. I will change me way. Thank you.
It’s ok to do whatever works for you, but most importantly is to not slide the headstock and carriage over the wet wax. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings oh oh - now what do I do. I've been sliding headstock and carriage and quill over wet wax for long time now. Any way to fix the damage? This info is so helpful. Thanks.
@@hfmann1 Unless you are finding that it wants to stick to the tubes. If that's the case you can remove the headstock and clean the casting holes with the solvent of your choice. If it has built-up over time you'll notice an improvement immediately. The quill is even easier to remove and clean. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks - pretty intimidated to remove the headstock (PowerPro). But I'll work on just waxing them properly for a while and see what happens.
Hal Mann I understand that hesitation. I know the Shopsmith tools like the back of my hand and could assemble one from parts if I had to, yet, those weekend I need to take my pellet smoker apart to clear a jamb in the auger tube and it has me stressed! It’s just because it is something we have never done, but thousands of people who are less competent than you have removed their headstock. I suggest checking Jacob Anderson’s channel to see if he has a video on the topic. The only real trick is to loosen the headstock lock and keep loosening it until you can’t turn the know any further. That will lock the wedges in their proper orientation so you can get it back onto the tubes without having to mess with them. You’ve got this! Scott
Awww man sealing your tool is TIGHT!
Thanks for the tips. I never thought about the waiting for the wax to dry before I slid the carriage on the tubes.
Glad you found it helpful. Scott
What this guy says is right. I find that instead of using Johnsons paste wax I use Watco Natural Satin wax. It dries quicker and also gets hazy when it is dry. It is easy to see when it is ready to be buffed. It lasts a lot longer than the Johnsons. I learned this from a few different people in the furniture business. I started a wood workers club in 1985 and we did a had a lot of different people talk about how they maintained their machinery.
150$ for the Johnson wax now 😅. I went with staples brand carnouba wax. I didn't see your list of what you use in the description. Hopefully I purchased a good brand 😬😅!
Thanks for the great tips Scott! 👍
Mark Macauley You are welcome.
It's been a while since I've waxed everything. Now I know that I wasn't waxing everything. Thanks for the tips.
It'll thank you for it! Scott
Gosh I’m glad I found your channel. My Mark V is buried in the garage where I parked it while my wife was so sick. I’ll be binge watching these videos to refresh my knowledge. How’s Shopsmith doing these days?
Glad you made your way here. Yeah, life does have a way of sidelining things, doesn’t it? Like a lot of businesses Shopsmith got hurt by the pandemic shutdown, but they are back to work and I believe they are busy. They we going into their best seasons (cold weather) and I’m sure they are gearing-up. I stay in touch with a couple folks there and they are optimistic. Scott
Great advice, much appreciated, however placing a towel on the Carriage can avoid unnecessary scratches, dings and wear on the Carriage and Worktable top.
Thanks for the tips. I just inherited a 10ER. It is in good shape given the age, but definitely needs some love. Your video definitely helps!
Glad to hear it. One of these days my 10ER is bound to make an appearance.
Great video Scott! Glad you left the quill extended out so the wax could dry. Inside the head stock could be one of the worst places for wax/saw dust buildup. P.S. It appears you've lost quite a few lb's. Looking good man!
Yes, I’ve been working on the weight. It’s been up and down, but mostly down for the past year. Thanks for watching. Scott
Buffing after drying should be accented a bit more. When I bought my Shopsmith the dealer had cans of wax that were rich with carnauba. He called it Oil of Olay for machines. 20 years later I still have the can, it still smells great and waxing continues to make a big difference to ease of adjustment.
Probably so. It’s always a balance of what to show and what to edit out when recording a video. Thanks for watching and commenting, Scott
You should post these on the Facebook groups. I got so many questions about these type of questions I quit the groups. Very informative.
I'll leave that to others. I'm active on both the FB group and on the SS Forums and I would rather someone else post a vid the speaks to them rather than self-promoting. I appreciate the support though. Scott
People tend to interchange the words "set-up" and "change-over". Change-over is the process of changing the Shopsmith from one mode to another, such as changing from table saw to drill press. This of course is relatively fast and straightforward, using only the 5/32 allen wrench. Set-up is very different. For example; setting up the dado stack to cut a groove and placing it in the table saw. In this regard, set-ups on the Shopsmith are usually just about the same as you would have to do on any machine in order to accomplish a specific task.
I worked in an architectural millwork shop and brought my Mark V in to use on a few turning projects, and could set it up faster than any of the tools in that shop. I keep the blades that I use on their win arbor and even have a could dado stacks on their own arbors as well, so that helps to speed up the process. Scott
Hi Scott.
I just purchased a mark v. I been watching your videos to learn every thing I can. The unit I bought was left in a sold house that the new owner wanted it gone. I got it for 100.00 dollars. But unfortunately no rip fence or miter hold handle or coupler was with it. On the plus it did have the bandsaw and jointer/planner. Any information on used parts would be appreciated sir. Thanks.
Wow, that’s a great price and welcome to the Shopsmith family. You can get all of those parts new from Shopsmith or used on eBay. Also, keep an eye out on Craigslist, in the Facebook Shopsmith Sales Group on on FB Marketplace, where you could even post an ad for free saying that you are looking to buy those parts. Good luck! Scott
Greetings from Raleigh! Great explanation of the process. I love my Mark V and try to treat it right! I love your videos and I'm trying to play catchup now.
Howdy from High Point! I appreciate your kind words. Scott
Can you use steel wool on the tubes to remove rust before applying the wax?
Sure thing. I tend to use ScotchBrite because it doesn’t fall apart like steel wool can, but they will both work just fine. Scott
Can you make some videos for people who purchase a used shopsmith and accessories. How to clean, oil-lube and adjust before using. What to look for, before starting.
Hey Ferrel, I believe I’ve already done many or most of those videos, but they are scattered throughout a bunch of vids. Check out my playlist titled “Getting the most out of your Shopsmith”. I think you’ll find most of them there. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings What I was think is, when you get a used shopsmith do and check this before using using it for safety because we don't get manual.
If it is not maintained, lubricated, and aligned it can be a hassle. Thank you Scott!
This was more helpful than I expected. Thanks.
Mission accomplished. Seriously, I’m happy to hear it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have an unrelated question and I hope you don't mind me posting it here. I have been interested in using the Shopsmith for mortizing, but when I look at the accessory sold by a Shopsmith it gets horrible reviews. Do you have any thoughts or recommendations regarding that process or product?
Robert Hiday I’m sitting in the passenger seat on the highway to Paducah, Kentucky, so I’m sure you can imagine that any woodworking question is welcome! The Mark V has a couple issues when mortising: The chisels need to be sharper than the way they come, so you have to know how to sharpen and use them before you can use them. The stock quill handle is too short to get the proper leverage and the cast aluminum hub of the quill handle was not made for this type of force. There are a couple aftermarket solutions that might be worth considering. Table flex can be an issue, but that can be addressed several ways, depending upon your Shopsmith model. All of those factors ultimately led me to purchasing a stationary hollow chisel mortiser, but a router table can make excellent slot mortises as long as you’re not doing through mortises for Arts and Crafts furniture. I’m not saying that I couldn’t make one work, because I can, but they aren’t ideal. Great question. Scott
I genuinely appreciate the information I get from your videos as well as the pure enjoyment of watching and listening to an expert in a hobby that I enjoy. Do you have any thoughts on a product called Boeshield as an alternative to paste wax. My understanding is that Boeshield leaves a film of wax behind as the solvent evaporates. Thanks
Yes, I use T9 all the time, thought I haven’t found it to be a complete replacement for paste wax due to it’s lack of any build-up. The way tubes and the castings that slide on it have microscopic scratches and voids that cause drag or friction when we slide them, and paste wax does a much better job of filling these voids. That said, T9 is super fast to apply and if I just need to get things moving in the middle of a task I’ll reach for it. I did a video entirely on all the various lubricants I use on my Shopsmith tools that might be worth a look. Scott
Thank you...my Mark V needs this.
You are welcome. Scott
Nice, you just answered a big question of mine!
Glad to hear it!
Hi Scott,
I really enjoy your videos and all of the knowledge and tips you share. Do I remember correctly that in one of your videos you talk about and demonstrate how to make sure the way tubes are properly aligned so the head stock and table carriage move freely. If I'm correct will you be so kind as to direct me to that video. I also have the sawdust sessions by Nick Engler and he shows how to do it, but again which video? It's tough getting old. 😅
I did say that in my “Before you turn on your Shopsmith” video. And don’t chalk this one up to age. It’s getting harder and harder to find old video because creators are being encouraged to put confusing titles and thumbnails on their videos. Thanks for your kind words and encouragement. Scott
You were right! I was doing it wrong! Thanks for the tips! When you say buff the table, exactly what does that mean?
Thank you so much for your videos..I feel they will help me a great deal when I get brave enough to fire up my MARK V 520 that I was blessed with by a good friend that gave it to me.. also..I need a sanding disk, a drill chuck and the lathe parts.. any leads would be appreciated. God bless
First off, welcome to the Shopsmith family and wow, that's quite a gift! I suggest getting plugged-into two Facebook groups (Yeah, I know!) One is the Shopsmith Owners group and the other is the Shopsmith Sales group. Also, jump into Shopsmith's own forum, which you can get to through their website at Shopsmith.com. As for parts, it's hard to beat eBay and Craigslist. The parts you need are redily available and if you are in a pinch and need to get some of them ASAP you can always get them at retail from Shopsmith or via this link on Amazon: amzn.to/38Ja3DC Some of the parts on Amazon are made by aftermarket suppliers, so be sure to check their reviews. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thank you!
@@MyGrowthRings I'll be watching more!
So the "Super easy, barely an inconvenience" is a quote from who?... Your son's youtube? Is he that guy? I love his videos!
Search UA-cam for “Pitch Meeting” and the title of any popular movie. Such as Aladdin or Back to the Future.
Sorry, I'm just noticing that I replied from the wrong account.
@@MyGrowthRings is he your son? I love his videos! I see the resemblance.
Damion S No, but I would claim him if he wants to join the family. The poor guy is Canadian, so he’s got that going against him.
@@MyGrowthRings Lol, wow, like a bad lip reading moment. Sorry. Lol.
I need to send you a picture of the stain on my saw table. Where would I send it?
@@amandacurry5865 Send it to ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
I am a weird one, i like the routine maintenance on my Mark IV. It is something i guess that gives me a little zen time. And Johnsons paste wax is the supreme choice. i use it on a ton of other things too.
I'm a little like that too. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Need your help. i have the grey mark 5 500 i bought the 510 table upgrade- but what's the best way to make it work with the 500? any ideas that does not require destroying my original setup?
@@Mainbusfail I'm not sure I understand your question. What original set-up are you concerned about destroying? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Oh my gosh, i cannot believe i forgot about this question Scott. What I did was purchase some second hand floating tables and tubes with the telescopic legs. I have been trying to figure out how to make these work for me on my Mark V 500. any suggestions?
never mind. you answered this question on the episode Yes, it is a weird idea! Filling in the Shopsmith Floating Table "Abyss". That is exactly what I needed to figure out. Thank you so much Scott.
You said Minwax works well as a substitute for the discontinued Johnson Paste Wax and you said you should look for a wax with carnauba wax in it. I looked up Minwax and the safety data sheet says it contains mineral spirits and paraffin but no mention of carnauba. I have a can of Minwax and it doesn't say what is in it other than mineral spirits. Briwax says it contains carnauba.
Go for Briwax!
Hi scott just wondering ,I think i read in the manual ,that the minimun temperature for using a shopsmith,is around 50 degrees F, is there any harm in using the machine at low temps,,,great vid on maintenance.thanks Jim..
We used to live in Ohio and routinely used the Mark V at and below freezing. The key thing was to start it up each day with nothing attached and just let it run for 5-10 minutes to warm everything up. The belts really don’t want to move from their current oval shape, so you also want to make sure that you leave it each day set to a low speed. I’m sure there are other opinions out there, but has always been my approach. Scott
Fine job. Thank you.
You are welcome. Scott
Outstanding. Thank you!
You're very welcome! Scott
Hey, Scott! I've got an old Mark V that was pieced together by my brother... it's been neglected and is sitting in the garage. Any chance if I moved it down to my new woodshop that you'd come by and clean it up for me? maybe make a video on it? I haven't fired it up in probably 4 years. I think the speed control is messed up... and the fence won't tighten anymore. Looking forward to your reply. Love your video!
That’s an interesting proposal. Would it involve gizzards?
@@MyGrowthRings maaaaybeee... I only have 52 of them.
What should I use to maintain the sliding parts now that Johnson Paste Wax had been discontinued?
Minwax works just fine.
Good stuff. When I got my Shopsmith I gave it a good scrubbing and waxing, but I don't think it ever occurred to me to wax the quill. Given that it has been a few years, now would probably be a good time to maintenance it anyways. How often do you renew the wax on your machines?
ER Webster Back when I used it daily I would wax it once a week as part of scheduled routine maintenance. I use it less now, so it gets it whenever it feels like it needs it. Thanks for dropping in! Scott
My quill does not move well at all. Did not know about letting the wax dry before buffing off (duh, should have). I've cleaned the inside of the quill down to the bearing and oiled the splined shaft. Wondering if I need to run a flap wheel up in the casing.
You can do that, but be quick about it and not too aggressive. You really don’t want to remove any metal. Also, look for burrs around openings and the screw hole at the too. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings kudos. I think I had forced a burr into the keyway on the quill from the lock screw on the top. There was a pair or grooves extending from the screw to the outside of the casting. After filing the shoulders of the keyway it started moving much better. Some 600grit on the grooves to knock down any resultant burrs and it's better still. Could probably use more but this is good for now... Found it while tearing down my headstock due to a runaway speed control... Yup, control sheave bearing seized. Might be a good troubleshooting video since it's scary when it happens.
@@darthboren Glad to hear you have it under control, and yes, that's not a good prize at all! Scott
Good evening!! Just picked up a shopsmith 510 Mark 5 for 50 bucks. Most everything is included and im going through a parts check currently. I know im missing the Arbor and Arbor nut. Any suggestions on where to pick one up??
$50 is an AMAZING price! Congratulations. I just posted a couple links on my blog that might be of interest that relate to American-made aftermarket Shopsmith parts. Here's the link: shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2020/07/oem-shopsmith-accessories-made-in.html
@@MyGrowthRings these links are really valuable. Thanks
Super easy barely an inconvenience, lol.
When waxing the tubes, how do i remove slight surface rust from the tubes? After about 10 yrs my ex-wife let me have my shop smith mark vii, needless to say some parts are missing and some parts are really rusty. Any information you have on helping me get this shopsmith back in good working condition. Great videos.
If the rust is just slight I would go after it with WD40 and Scotch Brite. Once you get the rust off you'll want to get it waxed quickly, because the bare tubes will rust quickly. I did a video on de-rusting a SS jointer that might be helpful, but the tubes are even easier. Scott
I like your T-shirt! Is that from Shopsmith?
No, it’s one I made on Zazzle. I linked to it in the video description. Scott
Question first... Is there a way to tighten the table lock? After waxing the bars, my table will slowly slide when I use drill press mode. Slightly enough that at first I thought my quill stops were slipping, or my bits were maybe receding into the chuck. The answer was, the table was lowering. How do I fix that? The nut on the other side does not seem to be adjustable.
Now gratitude... I have followed your waxing instructions and I love the results. I had sadly never done any maintenance to my Shopsmith in the 15 years I owned it until watching your videos. I have started oiling and waxing accordingly, and I finally got my bandsaw to a state where I trust it will actually do the jobs it is supposed to do. Thanks for these videos.
Yes, if you have a 510/520 you can tighten the carriage lock with a socket wrench on the back side, opposite of the lever. It’s a lock nut, but it is adjustable. Just make sure to make the adjustments with the machine horizontal.
And thanks for the kind words about the vids!
I got an old model 500 mark 5, the guy I got it from. Has been using aircraft dry film lubricant, the graphite kind, would I need to strip all of that out before I wax?
I would sure think so. Google to see if your can uncover the solvent that they used with that dry lube and that's what I would use to remove it. Good luck! Scott
can we use minn wax insted of the johnson
Absolutely! Keep in mind that the key ingredient to look for is carnauba wax. Scott
@MyGrowthRings You probably already answered this, but since Johnson's paste wax is no more, what is a good alternative paste wax?
Minwax works fine.
So THAT'S why my headstock is so sticky! Do you have any videos showing how to remove the wax build up?
Not exactly, though I did do a video showing how to remove the headstock and from there, WD40 and a little ScotchBrite and the rest is pretty self explanatory.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the quick response!
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, Love your videos and info- I have a M7 that the carriage does not want to move after unlocking.... it acts like the clamps do not release.... is this from too much wax? if so, how can i get it out. Will the graphite trick for lubing the headstock work? Thx
Great Video!!
Thanks!
Scott, I was just looking for some paste wax and found the Johnson Paste wax was discontinued at the end of 2021. Is Minwax a good alternative or something else?
Yes, Minwax works fine. In fact, SS has offered it in the past.
Hey Scott, I inherited my Dad's old MK V that had been sitting in my brothers garage for the past ten years and she's pretty rusty. I believe that it all surface rust but in your opinion, whats the best way to restore the sliding parts to their original condition?
WD40, ScotchBrite and elbow grease. Lots of elbow grease! Good ouch and you’ve got this. Scott
Why, in the Shopsmith videos, do they show applying the paste wax with steel wool?
That’s a mystery to me, TC. The only time I would ever do that would be if I was removing tarnish or rust, and I doubt that I would be using paste wax as a lubricant. Scott
Seems as if sc johnson wax is discontinued. Do you know of an alternative wax?
Yes, several. Check out, Minwax, Breewax
and pretty much anything that is heavy in carnuba but has no silicone.
@@MyGrowthRings thank you!
@@anthonylandrum63 You are welcome.
Why wax and not 3in1 oil?
Great question. Oil attracts dust and eventually becomes a sticky mess. Wax is the preferred lubrication for most bare metal parts used in woodworking. Scott
What wax do you suggest now that Johnson has quit making paste wax?
Minwax furniture wax works just fine,
is there anything wrong with using teflon dry lube ? I've been using that for a while now and when I open up my headstock to lube it up, there doesen't seem to be any build up. I also use it on the rack n pinion for the table and I noticed there is no more saw dust build up if ever. what's your opinion on this?
I've used it with mixed results. Shopsmith used to sell a dry lube product that they encouraged the Academy Instructors to use and promote on the way tubes and table tops, and most of us stopped using it. It was super-slippery at first but wore off very fast, which of course promoted more applications. Not only did it not perform as well as paste wax but it also looked cloudy, which made the way tubes look bad. You are right about it on the table rack and the carriage pinions, though. It does a fine job there. As for internally, I think that on the quadrant and worm gear it is perfect, and a much smarter choice than grease or even bee's wax, which was the choice at SS for many years. Not only does grease attract dust, but it also drips off if the motor is run for long periods, and then you're left with no lubrication. Lastly, I wouldn't use it on the sheaves and shafts as my long-term approach to maintenance, but as a quick fix it's ok. Scott
Silicone isn't compatible with much of anything...
It isn't even compatible with itself...So if you see your bathroom or something with silicone and it leaks or comes out...You have to remove every bit of the old silicone. Silicone does not stick to itself. That is why you see mold behind the brand new silicone or an over cover so large it makes a new seal against the corner to prevent that. Yes this is off topic but use Urethane if you think it will ever need maintenance. Urethane sticks to itself so you CAN do what most people do with silicone and JUST remove the bad part and reseal.
Great tips. Thanks for adding valuable content to the conversation. Scott
They no longer make Johnson Paste Wax. Is there something else you would recommend?
Yes, Minwax paste wax works just fine.
Thank you for that info. I have a can of Minwax but it doesn't list the contents. I just watched your waxing video (excellent) and went looking for SJ Johnson paste wax. 10/2023 - 1 lb can $94.00 at Walmart!!! Do I hold up both hands when I buy it??
I moved and can’t find my can of Johnson’s Wax. Apparently S.C. Johnson has discontinued this old standby and I saw a one pound can offered on line for $125.00! Can you recommend a substitute?
Minwax works just fine.
@@MyGrowthRings thank you
@@ohgary You are welcome.
Scott can you tell me the wattage that a 510 takes to run! Have off grid situation
Hey Lawrence, I'm a little out of my league talking electricity, but Shopsmith has some data on their site here: www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/specs.htm and I also know that there have been several conversation threads on this over at the Shopsmith Forums. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thank you so much
@@lawrencejacobs2136 You are welcome and good luck!
Hi Scott, I have a new Mark 7. I am getting a lot of marks on my way tubes probably from over tightening the headstock. It doesn't feel like I'm over tightening but I'm getting a lot of dimples on the tubes. I have tried getting help from Shopsmith customer service, but this has proved to be not much help. It seems to me that the way tube wall thickness should be thicker, or their should be a stop like there is on the table slide, or a torque indicator. Any suggestions?
Yeah, they shouldn’t be dimpling, so you are likely overtightening. When you tighten the headstock, just tighten it to the point where you feel like you need to use a little more muscle, and that point give it no more than a quarter turn more. If it is your carriage that you think is the culprit, you can adjust that with a socket wrench by following the instructions in the set up portion of your manual. I think I did a video on this years ago.
I think this is it: Shopsmith Headstock Lock, Carriage Lock and Jointer Fence Issues and Mysteries SOLVED!
ua-cam.com/video/tSpYlXFoJ10/v-deo.html
Thanks Scott, really appreciate your help!
@@billhilker4175 My pleasure, he-man! Take it easy…
Johnson Paste Wax is no longer available
Correct. We've talked about that in other videos. Minwax is a fine substitution. Scott
Wax on wax off
I just spray a penetrating oil on a rag and wipe the rag across the tubes and etc.
That works really well in a metal shop but can be an issue in a wood shop, but if it works for you, stick with it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks for the heads up Scott. I do have a wood shop but I use oil sparingly & primarily via rags and essentially keep it off the work which when your building crossbows is fairly easy.
Otherwise:
I just picked up my model 55555 1980 ShopSmith two weeks ago. I received it free along with a Shopsmith power-station. I am primarily going to use it as a lathe and drill press. Because I replaced the speed controller and sourced parts from multiple locations at the moment I am waiting on delivery of the geared handled that attaches to the speed controller otherwise I would have used it by now.
All, in all I think I really like the machine. If you could would you please tell me which variation of the Mark V I have. All I could source was its year from the model number and I think it's to early for the 510.
Thanks again.
@@migalito1955 Yes, 1980 is just a few years too early for the 510, so unless someone has upgraded it you have a model 500. Scott
Dude. Seriously, you HAVE to cut your videos. It's not even an option. Really, sincerely appreciate all your efforts on behalf of SS, but please, I'm begging you. If you aren't getting the support you need from SS to help you edit and make these more watchable, you're going defeat the entire purpose of even having them. SS needs to keep it going, and if they cant see that, heck with 'em.
I appreciate your concern and thank you very much for watching. I don’t receive any support from Shopsmith, you’re right, editing is a tough task and certainly takes more time is that shooting videos. Since I have a full-time job, travel a ton for my business, and I am active with a very large family, it’s unlikely I will be able to spend any more time editing. Thank goodness for the ability to speed up and fast forward videos! Scott
I was recently giving a “universal tool support” for my Mark V lathe. Can you direct me to an installation video? I feel like I need more info than the printed instructions that were provided by Shopsmith. Thanks!