I loved your video. It was very well made and thorough. I know you already commented about this but unless a deck is built in a desert climate it is recommended to space the ledger board away from the band joist to allow drainage. A couple dollars in galvanized washers will have a huge impact on the longevity of the ledger board. It also would help to seal or flash the top edge of the ledger board. There's a lot of areas where you can cut corners but this is one of the most critical structural elements in deck construction.
Peter! Thank you! The spacer debate is a real one and I love, in theory, the gap between ledger and band joist. However, it does cantilever the fasteners a little and decrease the surface area of the joined surfaces. Finally, they're not required here by code. I totally get where you're coming from--water needs a way out! Thanks for the great comment.
And just like that, my day has been made. Thank you. There are more videos on the channel like Top Down Deck Building 1, 2, & 3 plus one on guard rails. Good luck with your project. I really appreciate your comment.
You better tell my boss, bro. That jerk makes me pull permits, get inspections--pass them--and build stuff all day. Man, if I could just wing it, what fun it would be.
When adding a new deck to compliment my existing deck I found out my original ledger was only attached with just framing nails. When I added these screws it sucked some parts of the ledger in almost 1/4". My deck has a vinyl top with soffits on the bottom side. So if I never removed the soffits in order to see exactly where the ledger was in relation to the house I would have never known and who knows what would have happened in a few years.
Ahhh, the framing nailer ledger connection. Yes, it happens. The deck was probably never permitted or inspected. But that was a high school graduation party or wedding reception photo away from being in your back yard. - Nice work beefing it up. When I resurface decks, I add new Spax PowerLags to he ledger and often see it snug back up to the house.
Nice video! Question for you: Is it necessary to add some sort of flashing on either end of the ledger board? Wouldn't water enter where the vertical ledger board plane meets the siding? Also, how did you add flashing under the existing door? Thank you!
Joel - First, thank you. It's refreshing to not be jabbed to death by know-it-all keyboard warriors writing from their parents' basements. Second, good question. This can be a job-by-job question, but the basic gist is that I try and get my peel and stick behind the cladding adjacent to the band joists. Depending on the cladding, you could caulk it as well but I wouldn't use that as my primary line of defense. And, I carry the rigid metal flashing over the band joists as well. -- As for the rigid metal flashing above the ledger, in the video, I added it AFTER installing the joists which was a mistake. There were 10,000 nails in the foam sheathing I had to snip (this is a unique situation but still...). The next time I do it--in about 2-weeks--for my next deck, I'm going to install it after the ledger. Then I think I'm going to blue tape it up to the siding so its out of the way. I hope this helps. Let me know and thanks again. - Mark
@@myfixituplife yeah, seems like a piece of ledger board flashing from the big box store ($7 an 8' length) could be helpful here, maybe ideally 2 pieces, one underneath the ledger board and underneath the membrane over the concrete wall, that would be easy enough to do and then another above however in this case the door is there, the ledger board flashing is 3" high so maybe cut, bend and push it in under the door? pita, but I'm in a similar situation... but worse lol. Great vid and forum! There is painted galvanized steel or plastic, I went w the galvanized thinking the plastic might deteriorate in the sun but maybe the plastic could be better if it's directly on the pressure treated somehow but best to use membrane, or membrane over the p.t. and flashing over the membrane
Looking for a little more details on the size board used for the ledger and joists? How did you end up connecting the joist to the ledger, what additional items did you use on the joist for code and security?
Joist size and spacing is a matter of the deck's size. I almost always just use 2x10 at 16OC. I use a cleat and joist hangers to make the connections. Check out this video Parts 1, 2 and 3) for more information . Let me know if this helps. - Also, you need a permit, so the plan reviewer will make suggestions to your plan. -- ua-cam.com/video/G3QEyUBR4PM/v-deo.html
Great video. I have a situation where I will be putting the ledge board on Brick wall for a lean to structure for plastic corrugated sheet (not the deck). What would you suggest.
Hard to say without pics but if the roof connection is under an overhang, I’d apply directly to the brick. If water can infiltrate, I’d kerf the mortar joint and add flashing to diver water away. - You could also space the ledger and let water drain down the wall. You’ll still be dry.
Thank you for this video!! Question though. Do you run the metal flashing under the existing door? Whoever installed the deck on our house didn’t use ANY flashing between the ledger board and sheathing so the wood sheathing was crumbled to hell so I went ahead and replaced that. But now I’m not sure how to correctly water seal the house under the door before I put my new ledger board on. Is the water seal tape and caulking enough right there? I’m replacing the deck with a simple set of stairs instead. Thank you in advance
Hi Amanda - For the deck in this video, the flashing tape and caulk were sufficient. There was no way to integrate metal flashing with the vinyl siding. If you can get some metal flashing in under your door, then it certainly can't hurt. However, caulk and tape usually suffice. Also, you may want to apply the peel and stick flashing tape to the tops of the joists to isolate the wood from the aluminum. I'm doing that on my current deck and I did that here but didn't show it. Good luck. let me know if you have other questions. Thanks - Mark
Amanda Knobbe to do it right,without any chance of a leak or rot,the door must have a " pan" either lead or a plastic modeled one ,then the deck flashing goes under the door flashing and over the deck ledger flashing
Height doesn't matter with a free-standing deck. Pssst....they don't float. - PS - Use Post-Protectors for your posts instead of tubes. - ua-cam.com/video/G3QEyUBR4PM/v-deo.html
Thank you, Barry. I suppose you could use house wrap, just as long as the flashing goes underneath the house wrap above it. Does that make sense? You don't want an uninterrupted plane of house wrap without something to divert water away from the band joist.
Skipped right past the part I wanted to see how it's done....installing the flashing!! (It's the most important part of a correct build!!) Showed too much of driving in lag screws - so easily understood. Oh well.......!
Ray - You know, I could have gotten a little more under the hood on that one. Basically, you bend it in a L with a 2-inch leg going up the wall and just kinda wiggle it in there. It's a pain (this particular deck...all the sweat fell out of my body because there was foam and a million nails back there) and video of it would have been pretty tedious to watch. Also, the bottom leg only has to project about 1-inch past the ledger, not past the first deck board as shown. - I can't get everything done the way I'd like to some times. Thanks for the call-out.
@@myfixituplife Thanks for getting back - that's appreciated greatly. My project is to build /attach a "lean to" metal roofed car port to my house having lapboard siding. I'm thinking of tucking flashing up between lapboards and top of metal roofing. Not sure if this a proper method - surprised I couldn't find any YT videos on similar application.
@@raybin6873 Sounds like a cool project. I think I'd take the same approach as a deck ledger here. From a water point of view, it's the same assembly. -- I'd remove the siding in the ledger area and tape the framing as shown in the deck video. Because you have lap siding, this won't be a big deal I don't think. -- I'd definitely get the flashing under the house wrap. The siding should be nailed at the butts, so prying it loose should be easy. Also, be ready if the piece breaks. -- Next, frame, paper and shingle your roof, then daylight the flashing over the shingles. -- I usually do a small fold in the bottom leg of the flashing to give it a little rigidity. Then I screw it to the roof with pan-head Spax screws and gob those screwheads with caulk. -- Also, I'd make sure to zing 3-inch powerlags right into the studs.
I'm not sure I understand the strategy behind measuring down from your line, and placing a laser there, could'nt you just place your laser level right where you want the top of your ledger to be, and just go from there?
Good question. Short answer is, No. Yeah, sometimes you can pile up buckets and boxes and whatever to get the laser dead nutz, but it takes so much effort--even with telescoping camera tripods--it's almost always easier to transfer the level line from where it is projected on the wall to where you need it.
This looks great. I'm sure dynamite wouldn't blow that ledger off. But...... Isn't the strength of the deck at the house end only as good as the screws or nails that hold the joist hangers? Any comments welcome
Hiya Kidnee - First, thank you. And second, not always. One of the reasons decks fail is that the entire ledger--for lots of different reasons-- but mainly either rot due to missing flashing or substandard fasteners. As it relates to the joist hangers, I'm less familiar with failures there. The mistake people make here is using 1 1/2-fasteners in the angled slots. Those require 2 1/2-inch fasteners. I use Spax Power Lags in the ledger. They have what's called a TER, technical engineering report (I think) rating their pull-out capacity and proper use in this application. For the hangers I use #10 x 1 1/2 and 2 1/2-inch HCRx coated screws. -- I hope this helps. Let me know and thanks again.
I want to extend my current deck. Does the ledger board extension butt up against the old one? Should I leave the band joist end board attached to the original ledger too the way it is? Or does that have to be relocated and turn into a reg joist?
Hey Jeff - You have a few details to consider. - Giving this a few second thought, I'd leave the existing band joist in place. I'd then add framing for a parting board perpendicular to the existing decking to transition to the next round of decking. I call it a chicken ladder. then just frame accordingly.
I use to use to install lag bolts with a automotive impact/however the new stuff is nice and very highly priced with the manufacturers making a 5000% profit on a dam screw
I hear you T-Mann. I didn't build enough decks in a row in my remodeling life to warrant buying an impact wrench. But, if I did I would have in a heartbeat. Installing 1/2-inch lags with a ratchet set is not that much fun. And yes, we have to pay for speed. I'm using these screws in my post-to-beam connection and in guard posts as well. Some of that is in this video. And thank you for watching and commenting - ua-cam.com/video/oOriVVJV7Qg/v-deo.html
i liked all the videos but i am not clear about the calculation how to mount the ledger, how did you get the 16 and 3/4 line. you said that from the bottom of the door need to take 1" and 3/4. The ledger board is 12" wide (11"and 1/2). can you show elaborate more ?
16 3/4-inch is UP from the laser line. The laser line is level but not on layout. So you measure up from it to where you need the ledger to be, then mark that. Sorry it took me forever and a day to get back to you.
Not exactly. For a concrete application, you'll need lags and shields for the final connections. You'll likely also need to caul or flash the top of the ledger to protect the fasteners over time.
I thought there's supposed to be an air space between the ledger board and the band board? And I've heard that some places have started to proscribe only free standing decks with air space between house, no attaching the deck to the house anymore.
Deck codes vary and free-standing decks--I've recently completed two--have their own issues. While there are spacers made to open a gap between the ledger and the house's band joist, they're not required where I build. And, they put extra pressure on the fasteners because the fasteners are essentially cantilevered. However you choose to build, managing water that gets into the system is important like you point out.
Mark 2 questions: what are your lag spacing. In the vid you just say 1 .. 2 .. 1 .. 2 but there’s no visual or diagram. What about a typical wall w/out band board.. just studs and cap rail? Any specific pattern there?
Yo. I like 2-per bay. Space them so there is room for the hangers. - Do you mean studs and top plate? You’d have to check with your inspector on that one. Any 2-story residence will have s band joist above the studs. Helpful?
I wish I knew. I bought it at a big box in the roofing section and have never seen it since. - Were I building this today, I'd use strips of Spax 4-inch joist tape.
Our House has no rim joist. I pulled off the rotted strand board and underneath it are the 2 x 4's that comprise the wall. So can one screw into the 2 x 4 studs in this case?
No. There is a little vinyl cutting in this one. - I laid out the cut, then used the awesome Dremel saw with multi-purpose blade. It was fantastic for this application.
How long of a lag bolt will I need installing a 2x8 ledger board 2x8 1.75 how much more do I need to go into the concrete thanks is a 5 inch bolt enough
5-inches is a good bet, though some codes don't specify. Some codes will also want you to caulk the top of the ledger board to keep water from getting trapped between the foundation and the ledger. I'd caulk it ABD seal it with flashing tape. Or, create a gap with approved spacers.
Negatory on Tacpons. - Code wants an epoxy anchor. Lags and shields might pass too. Code, where I build, wants "tension ties" under the ledger as well.
hmm nobody uses "old school" concrete anchors anymore were you tighten with a socket, I'm starting a small project and the house foundation is solid concrete. I'm trying to figure out what size anchors for a 2x8 ledger board. I never thought screws would replace everything I remember. I though you pre-drill hammer the 5/8 or 1/2 anchor and tighten.
For installing a ledger straight to concrete, I'd use 1/2-inch by 5-inch galvanized lags and shield (akas bungs). Drive them in with an impact driver. I show the process here in a deck resurface I recently finished. Check with your inspector. - And yes, the new structural screws are amazing. - ua-cam.com/video/MQvjA66ej8A/v-deo.html
Is it fine to paint the ledger board before installing (indoor installation) to prevent getting wet when moist penetrates in an unpaint concrete wall? Any suggestion?
I'm a nobody and know nothing but I'd guess probably not in case it does get wet it would want to breath. My question, why not pressure treated for this piece since it's outside and not tech walked on
Hey PT - The screws are threading into the rim (or band) joist. So, no, they're not hitting studs. They're also not just stuck in plywood (that would be bad). They're biting into solid framing. The key here is to have enough of them. I like to use two per joist bay, staggered up and down. Let me know if this helps and thanks for asking.
Great video. I have a question. I'm replacing a very similar deck. When removing the old one, I found there was a bit of rot on the top of the rim joist underneath the sliding door's frame. Would it be best to replace this entire board? Would it make sense to replace the small sections that have rot, or would that compromise the integrity of the rim joist? Or should I simply leave it as it is, since there won't be any more water damage, since I'll be doing this the right way now? Thanks a ton for any help.
Thank you Kevin. Generally speaking, a small amount of rot, "small" being a subjective term, and I don't think the joist or even a section would require removal and replacement. The band joist's integrity is based on it being mainly whole and fastened over many joists. You're right that stopping the moisture will stop the rot. If you have a cool and accessible building department, I'd ask the inspector what he or she thinks. This is a judgement call.
Hey Kayak - Sorry it's taken me a bit to respond. Hours in the day, hours in the day. -- This particular product was a rubber roofing product for seams and patches I got at Home Depot. I thought it was great for deck ledgers but I have not found it since. There are products other guys use called Vycor (I think that's Grace, also maker of Ice and Water Shield) and a few others. Huber's Zip Tape might work too. Please let me know what you find. I can poke around with some friends to get some recommendations as well.
@@myfixituplife. So then I would have to bring a stucco guy back into patch the area after flashing installed. Since now the flashing is fully exposed above the 5/4 deck boards. Not behind the houses finished surface.
Hi. Building a deck is awesome project. One of our favorites. Whether you need a license depends on your local codes. Also, decks need to be inspected to make sure they are safe. Just search 'deck collapse' and you'll see why. Important safety concerns are post hole depth, connection to the house, the number and placement of posts and joists, and railings.
Also brought to you by my exposure to the company at the International Builders' Show in the early 2000s. - Also brought to you by the fact these things are Beast Mode. - Also brought to you by the fact that I need to produce on my jobsites and put food on my table. - What's your world brought to you by?
Do you need to do the peal and stick flashing if the board is covered with tyvek. Also what tool did you use to cut the vinyl siding and is that a hammer drill u are using to drive the power lags
Hi Sadie - Yes, the Tyvek (weather resistive barrier to us nerds) needs to be removed. It is not waterproof by any stretch. Reapply a peel and stick flashing tape as shown and caulk under the door. -- The tool I used to cut the vinyl is a Dremel mini-circular saw. It's a great tool for odd cuts and materials. -- I'm driving the Power Lags with an impact driver. It's Ridgid's "Stealth" model and it has liquid inside it to keep it quieter. It's a bit bulky but I like the tool.
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
Could someone give me some advice. When hanging the ledger, is he having to aim for or put those “lag screws” into studs or is he able to just put them anywhere?
More videos here Dan - ua-cam.com/play/PLdLol426YERTOPn9cloEJDyc0K5CnqHEZ.html -- Also, no, not trying to hit any framing rather than the band joist. I use 2 screws per bay (5/16 x 5, washer-head) 2-inches in from the top and bottom of the ledger, zig-zagged up and down.
Joe _ I get where you're coming from. First, Spax is a vastly superior screw products across the board. Try 'em and let me know. - Second, there's a code detail where you can't drop the ledger too far below the band joist unless you fasten into concrete. I get what you're saying--potential for a leak--however, there's flashing and caulking here. And think the no-step transition from inside to outside is awesome. - I really appreciate your comment.
Use the product that you feel comfortable with as long as it meets code. As far as the deck being tight to the door I would never do it. Caulk is not a permanent fix. Its only an added barrier. You also should get the house wrap over the flashing especially with vinyl siding. This guy just cost the home owner a bunch of money in a few years. Must have a taillight warranty.
About 90% of deck collapses occurred as a result of the separation of the deck ledger board from the house, allowing the deck to swing away from the house. It is very rare for deck floor joists to break mid-span. Ledger board construction is the WORSE way to build a deck
I don't know the exact data, but yes, most decks fail at the ledger. That's why we have codes, products and techniques to make this a zero risk proposition. Back in the day we lagged right through vinyl siding. Not any more.
@@myfixituplife Every year the IRC gets closer and closer to outlawing ledgered deck support altogether. Pictures are hung on a wall, wallpaper is hung on a wall...Decks need to be built from the ground up to be reliably safe. The newest IRC calls for approved mechanical devices that tie the homes floor joists directly to the deck's joists that requires opening up floor and ceiling spaces in the home to attach the required hardware and to be inspected. These new requirements now make the job faster and cheaper to put down more footings and post supports and a beam, making the deck self supporting, rather than the ledger board style of hanging the deck on an outside wall. It's about time.
Never build deck flush to any door it will leak and cause rot. I have built many decks and replaced even more doors because people built them just like that.
I hear where you are coming from. I think properly sealing the door is crucial. Code doesn't want us to drop the ledger too far down the house's band though, for connection purposes.
I agree here, mainly when you're in a zone that gets alot of snowfall. However, I think tripple flashing the house rim to ledgerboard is plenty good. And I do use the existing house wrap to help also. I do not cut it out. Really.....As long as a professional builder knows how to do it properly, I think it's just fine! Key words here are professional, and properly!!! I'm all about over building, over waterproofing, keeping the home's envelope sealed from air or moisture. And especially connections to the home. In this case, we still need to see a minimum of two pass through connections or pass through equivalent ties. I still like the old fashioned ties and threaded rod to the homes joists. It makes the most sense structurally to me. I do like to set my ledger lower, for the purpose of snow when I can, but sometimes (especially those budget builds) it's not feasible. I also like to run my joists about 1/8 to 3/16 high on the ledger when I can so there's no direct contact between the decking and ledger flashing whether it be copper or vinyl. I also put a pitch on that final flashing if possible. This is just my preference. It will let the decking breath and let water run off of that final flashing. With composite or pvc decking, every f'n thing gets flashed. Haha. Just thought I'd share my thoughts on it too. 👍 Take care everyone!
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet for super high snow regions, I get it. Especially where the snow doesn’t melt. However, for where I build, this detail-professionally detailed, I like where you’re coming from-works great.
Run the tape right up to the threshold and caulk the gap. You can fold a second piece of membrane (tape) under the threshold and down the wall too but I think caulk works fine.
I'm replacing an old deck when i took off the old ledger board there is no band joist just blocking in between the joists. should i add a 1x across then install the ledger?
I bent it myself on my sheet metal brake, then I tucked it up under the house wrap (aka WRB) prior to decking. It's not a ton of fun, especially if there are nail in there through the siding.
Really hocking those screws barely a second word on anything else, screw code slap a few more of these super powered damn near magic screw on it this man could give billy Mays a run for his money
Shouldn’t you use stainless steel screws for decks because if you use any regular type of screw you’re only going to darken the wood if it’s redwood or cedar you really want stainless steel screws for those two types of wood and if it’s chemically treated wouldn’t those other screws Deteriorate or decompose over time I know they’re expensive but if you are going through so much work might as well do the best with the best materials!!! Do it right!!!
The Spax HCRx coating is just a smidge below stainless, which is mainly specced in coastal environments. It's awesome. Spax recommends stainless for cedar, mainly in vertical applications, because there can be staining with the tannins in cedar. But for PT here, nothing beats HCRx for speed, connection, and affordability. - I used them on this project too - ua-cam.com/video/MQvjA66ej8A/v-deo.html - I used stainless on this one - ua-cam.com/video/EmNWz-XnMMU/v-deo.html
Ha! I wish I could lip synch on purpose. Might've been your connection. Didn't notice it on playbacks here. -- And thank you for the kind words. Real day maker there.
Sorry mate. Was meant to be light hearted. Genuinely didn't mean to upset ya mate. I live in rural west Australia and yeah my connection is bad at best and my skin is thicker than a rhino so yeah must be mindful. Col
Never build a deck with a ledger board. The damage you will do to your house can be disastrous and expensive to correct and repair. .In most jurisdictions if the deck is not attached to your home you do not even need to pull a permit or get an inspection. Build the deck as a free standing structure using a few more posts and footings and leave your home's siding and frame in tact.. The deck can be built as close as 1/2 inch to the house without touching it. No ledger , no flashing, no bolts into the frame of your house ... no rot or damage to the house. No way for water to get in and damage your most valuable investment. Your home. No permit fees, no inspector fees and no codes to worry about as long as the structure is less than 30 inches above the grade, is not larger than 200 square feet and is not attached to your house in any way, you are good to go with none of the nightmares you potentially subject yourself to with a ledger board... The money and work you may save on a couple of posts and footings would soon be lost with the costs of flashing, bolts waterproofing and repairs that will inevitably be needed in a few years, permits and inspections. The conventional way to build a first floor deck with a ledger board is the stupidest thing you can do to your home.
I'm not going to argue with you, Willard but to whomever else might be reading this, we have to get the facts straight. Building with a ledger board is approved by code and done correctly will do no damage to one's home. This deck was inspected. Also, most jurisdictions I'm aware of do require a permit for a free-standing deck. While free-standing decks are sometimes necessary or preferred--and I've built them--they require double the amount of post-holes. So on a modest deck, that's four more holes. If you're digging with a shovel and have a 36-inch depth requirement, that'd be one extra hole that's 12-feet deep. Screws and tape and caulk aren't that expensive.
@@frugalguy1 I’ve been working with them for years. I wouldn’t if they didn’t deliver. I don’t think they sponsored this one though. It’s been a while.
Very soon this will will all become a moot point because ledger boards will be outlawed altogether. Ledger boards are a dangerous shortcut for lazy, stupid and cheap builders who don't want to spend the money or the time to build a deck properly. Posts on footings, beams on posts, joists on beams, deck on joists. ANYTHING else is sub par carpentry.
I appreciate your passion, but ledgers do work and they work extremely well. There was a time when they were a mess, but the mighty DCA - 6 Prescriptive Code has caught up. - Build your decks how you see fit. Have fun digging double the post holes.
👉For more deck building tips: ua-cam.com/play/PLdLol426YERQNwoX_HZH0-lRRBIvAHSNe.html
I loved your video. It was very well made and thorough. I know you already commented about this but unless a deck is built in a desert climate it is recommended to space the ledger board away from the band joist to allow drainage. A couple dollars in galvanized washers will have a huge impact on the longevity of the ledger board. It also would help to seal or flash the top edge of the ledger board. There's a lot of areas where you can cut corners but this is one of the most critical structural elements in deck construction.
Peter! Thank you! The spacer debate is a real one and I love, in theory, the gap between ledger and band joist. However, it does cantilever the fasteners a little and decrease the surface area of the joined surfaces. Finally, they're not required here by code. I totally get where you're coming from--water needs a way out! Thanks for the great comment.
Your video has answered a bunch of questions I didn’t know I had, and your techniques have given me a confidence boost.
Well done, sir.
And just like that, my day has been made. Thank you. There are more videos on the channel like Top Down Deck Building 1, 2, & 3 plus one on guard rails. Good luck with your project. I really appreciate your comment.
This man is the absolute truth hands down
THANK YOU!
This is the best ledger board video out there thanks.
Hey! Thank you!
Nice straight to the point video. I also like the Spax powerlags. Used them to build raised 2x12 garden beds.
Thank you Kansas Gardener. And love to find another Spax fan. I bet those connections are near permanent. Nice work.
@@myfixituplife I'm a Brick Mason by trade we don't use them at work but I use them at home. They are great for wood projects.
@@kansasgardener5844 SWEET!
This is not a how to video by a real professional carpenter.
This is an advertisement for expensive fasteners.
Beware.
You better tell my boss, bro. That jerk makes me pull permits, get inspections--pass them--and build stuff all day. Man, if I could just wing it, what fun it would be.
Could use some more info on the flashing and weather seal, kind of important.
Thanks Matt - I could probably do a whole video just on that.
@@myfixituplife Good idea!
@@myfixituplife so where can I find that video?
@@josephkilleen7807 I haven't flashed a deck recently. Most of the jobs are free-standers or re-decks.
When adding a new deck to compliment my existing deck I found out my original ledger was only attached with just framing nails. When I added these screws it sucked some parts of the ledger in almost 1/4". My deck has a vinyl top with soffits on the bottom side. So if I never removed the soffits in order to see exactly where the ledger was in relation to the house I would have never known and who knows what would have happened in a few years.
Ahhh, the framing nailer ledger connection. Yes, it happens. The deck was probably never permitted or inspected. But that was a high school graduation party or wedding reception photo away from being in your back yard. - Nice work beefing it up. When I resurface decks, I add new Spax PowerLags to he ledger and often see it snug back up to the house.
Nice video!
Question for you: Is it necessary to add some sort of flashing on either end of the ledger board? Wouldn't water enter where the vertical ledger board plane meets the siding? Also, how did you add flashing under the existing door?
Thank you!
Joel - First, thank you. It's refreshing to not be jabbed to death by know-it-all keyboard warriors writing from their parents' basements. Second, good question. This can be a job-by-job question, but the basic gist is that I try and get my peel and stick behind the cladding adjacent to the band joists. Depending on the cladding, you could caulk it as well but I wouldn't use that as my primary line of defense. And, I carry the rigid metal flashing over the band joists as well. -- As for the rigid metal flashing above the ledger, in the video, I added it AFTER installing the joists which was a mistake. There were 10,000 nails in the foam sheathing I had to snip (this is a unique situation but still...). The next time I do it--in about 2-weeks--for my next deck, I'm going to install it after the ledger. Then I think I'm going to blue tape it up to the siding so its out of the way. I hope this helps. Let me know and thanks again. - Mark
@@myfixituplife yeah, seems like a piece of ledger board flashing from the big box store ($7 an 8' length) could be helpful here, maybe ideally 2 pieces, one underneath the ledger board and underneath the membrane over the concrete wall, that would be easy enough to do and then another above however in this case the door is there, the ledger board flashing is 3" high so maybe cut, bend and push it in under the door? pita, but I'm in a similar situation... but worse lol. Great vid and forum! There is painted galvanized steel or plastic, I went w the galvanized thinking the plastic might deteriorate in the sun but maybe the plastic could be better if it's directly on the pressure treated somehow but best to use membrane, or membrane over the p.t. and flashing over the membrane
Great tutorial thank you
Super thank you.
Looking for a little more details on the size board used for the ledger and joists? How did you end up connecting the joist to the ledger, what additional items did you use on the joist for code and security?
Joist size and spacing is a matter of the deck's size. I almost always just use 2x10 at 16OC. I use a cleat and joist hangers to make the connections. Check out this video Parts 1, 2 and 3) for more information . Let me know if this helps. - Also, you need a permit, so the plan reviewer will make suggestions to your plan. --
ua-cam.com/video/G3QEyUBR4PM/v-deo.html
Picked some very handy tips!
Thank you very much col -
Great video. I have a situation where I will be putting the ledge board on Brick wall for a lean to structure for plastic corrugated sheet (not the deck). What would you suggest.
Hard to say without pics but if the roof connection is under an overhang, I’d apply directly to the brick. If water can infiltrate, I’d kerf the mortar joint and add flashing to diver water away. - You could also space the ledger and let water drain down the wall. You’ll still be dry.
killer thriller
Dude - Love it!
These screws are the best!
I have seen ledger boards pull off a house when using only 1\2" galvanized lags..
David - I 100% agree. And Spax has tested it's pull-out power and it exceeds other fasteners.
Thank you for this video!! Question though. Do you run the metal flashing under the existing door? Whoever installed the deck on our house didn’t use ANY flashing between the ledger board and sheathing so the wood sheathing was crumbled to hell so I went ahead and replaced that. But now I’m not sure how to correctly water seal the house under the door before I put my new ledger board on. Is the water seal tape and caulking enough right there? I’m replacing the deck with a simple set of stairs instead. Thank you in advance
Hi Amanda - For the deck in this video, the flashing tape and caulk were sufficient. There was no way to integrate metal flashing with the vinyl siding. If you can get some metal flashing in under your door, then it certainly can't hurt. However, caulk and tape usually suffice. Also, you may want to apply the peel and stick flashing tape to the tops of the joists to isolate the wood from the aluminum. I'm doing that on my current deck and I did that here but didn't show it. Good luck. let me know if you have other questions. Thanks - Mark
Amanda Knobbe to do it right,without any chance of a leak or rot,the door must have a " pan" either lead or a plastic modeled one ,then the deck flashing goes under the door flashing and over the deck ledger flashing
For a very short basic deck, like 18” off the ground, would you suggest attaching it or is it perfectly okay to float it
Height doesn't matter with a free-standing deck. Pssst....they don't float. - PS - Use Post-Protectors for your posts instead of tubes. - ua-cam.com/video/G3QEyUBR4PM/v-deo.html
Thanks for your knowledge! Can you use house wrap under the ledger board too?
Thank you, Barry. I suppose you could use house wrap, just as long as the flashing goes underneath the house wrap above it. Does that make sense? You don't want an uninterrupted plane of house wrap without something to divert water away from the band joist.
this is so helpful!
Love it. Thank you.
I was hoping to see the flashing installation prior to the first deck board.
Check this video - ua-cam.com/video/MmWaCtdnZ40/v-deo.htmlsi=CMG7-M7UyLLkyXza
Skipped right past the part I wanted to see how it's done....installing the flashing!! (It's the most important part of a correct build!!) Showed too much of driving in lag screws - so easily understood. Oh well.......!
Ray - You know, I could have gotten a little more under the hood on that one. Basically, you bend it in a L with a 2-inch leg going up the wall and just kinda wiggle it in there. It's a pain (this particular deck...all the sweat fell out of my body because there was foam and a million nails back there) and video of it would have been pretty tedious to watch. Also, the bottom leg only has to project about 1-inch past the ledger, not past the first deck board as shown. - I can't get everything done the way I'd like to some times. Thanks for the call-out.
@@myfixituplife Thanks for getting back - that's appreciated greatly. My project is to build /attach a "lean to" metal roofed car port to my house having lapboard siding. I'm thinking of tucking flashing up between lapboards and top of metal roofing. Not sure if this a proper method - surprised I couldn't find any YT videos on similar application.
@@raybin6873 Sounds like a cool project. I think I'd take the same approach as a deck ledger here. From a water point of view, it's the same assembly. -- I'd remove the siding in the ledger area and tape the framing as shown in the deck video. Because you have lap siding, this won't be a big deal I don't think. -- I'd definitely get the flashing under the house wrap. The siding should be nailed at the butts, so prying it loose should be easy. Also, be ready if the piece breaks. -- Next, frame, paper and shingle your roof, then daylight the flashing over the shingles. -- I usually do a small fold in the bottom leg of the flashing to give it a little rigidity. Then I screw it to the roof with pan-head Spax screws and gob those screwheads with caulk. -- Also, I'd make sure to zing 3-inch powerlags right into the studs.
I'm not sure I understand the strategy behind measuring down from your line, and placing a laser there, could'nt you just place your laser level right where you want the top of your ledger to be, and just go from there?
Good question. Short answer is, No. Yeah, sometimes you can pile up buckets and boxes and whatever to get the laser dead nutz, but it takes so much effort--even with telescoping camera tripods--it's almost always easier to transfer the level line from where it is projected on the wall to where you need it.
This looks great. I'm sure dynamite wouldn't blow that ledger off. But...... Isn't the strength of the deck at the house end only as good as the screws or nails that hold the joist hangers? Any comments welcome
Hiya Kidnee - First, thank you. And second, not always. One of the reasons decks fail is that the entire ledger--for lots of different reasons-- but mainly either rot due to missing flashing or substandard fasteners. As it relates to the joist hangers, I'm less familiar with failures there. The mistake people make here is using 1 1/2-fasteners in the angled slots. Those require 2 1/2-inch fasteners. I use Spax Power Lags in the ledger. They have what's called a TER, technical engineering report (I think) rating their pull-out capacity and proper use in this application. For the hangers I use #10 x 1 1/2 and 2 1/2-inch HCRx coated screws. -- I hope this helps. Let me know and thanks again.
More on joist hangers -- ua-cam.com/video/usDev9HwB_E/v-deo.html
I want to extend my current deck. Does the ledger board extension butt up against the old one? Should I leave the band joist end board attached to the original ledger too the way it is? Or does that have to be relocated and turn into a reg joist?
Hey Jeff - You have a few details to consider. - Giving this a few second thought, I'd leave the existing band joist in place. I'd then add framing for a parting board perpendicular to the existing decking to transition to the next round of decking. I call it a chicken ladder. then just frame accordingly.
I use to use to install lag bolts with a automotive impact/however the new stuff is nice and very highly priced with the manufacturers making a 5000% profit on a dam screw
I hear you T-Mann. I didn't build enough decks in a row in my remodeling life to warrant buying an impact wrench. But, if I did I would have in a heartbeat. Installing 1/2-inch lags with a ratchet set is not that much fun. And yes, we have to pay for speed. I'm using these screws in my post-to-beam connection and in guard posts as well. Some of that is in this video. And thank you for watching and commenting - ua-cam.com/video/oOriVVJV7Qg/v-deo.html
i liked all the videos but i am not clear about the calculation how to mount the ledger, how did you get the 16 and 3/4 line. you said that from the bottom of the door need to take 1" and 3/4. The ledger board is 12" wide (11"and 1/2). can you show elaborate more ?
The decking board is 1 1/2" thick, so leaving a 1/4" of play, I assume for getting the flashing installed
16 3/4-inch is UP from the laser line. The laser line is level but not on layout. So you measure up from it to where you need the ledger to be, then mark that. Sorry it took me forever and a day to get back to you.
Can I use the same procedure to attach a ledger board to a wall of concrete? thank you.
Not exactly. For a concrete application, you'll need lags and shields for the final connections. You'll likely also need to caul or flash the top of the ledger to protect the fasteners over time.
I thought there's supposed to be an air space between the ledger board and the band board? And I've heard that some places have started to proscribe only free standing decks with air space between house, no attaching the deck to the house anymore.
I think the flashing would take care of any water getting behind the ledger board.
Deck codes vary and free-standing decks--I've recently completed two--have their own issues. While there are spacers made to open a gap between the ledger and the house's band joist, they're not required where I build. And, they put extra pressure on the fasteners because the fasteners are essentially cantilevered. However you choose to build, managing water that gets into the system is important like you point out.
I'm confident it does.
Use GRK fasteners and spacers they are structural rated.🔨
Mark 2 questions: what are your lag spacing. In the vid you just say 1 .. 2 .. 1 .. 2 but there’s no visual or diagram.
What about a typical wall w/out band board.. just studs and cap rail? Any specific pattern there?
Yo. I like 2-per bay. Space them so there is room for the hangers. - Do you mean studs and top plate? You’d have to check with your inspector on that one. Any 2-story residence will have s band joist above the studs. Helpful?
What is the name of the membrane you used? Thank you.
I wish I knew. I bought it at a big box in the roofing section and have never seen it since. - Were I building this today, I'd use strips of Spax 4-inch joist tape.
Our House has no rim joist. I pulled off the rotted strand board and underneath it are the 2 x 4's that comprise the wall. So can one screw into the 2 x 4 studs in this case?
Sounds like you need to add flashing, waterproofing and a ledger. At least. Or, bolt to the foundation.
Well said and done
Really means a lot to me Joe. Thanks.
do you have a video before this which showed cutting of the vinyl siding?
No. There is a little vinyl cutting in this one. - I laid out the cut, then used the awesome Dremel saw with multi-purpose blade. It was fantastic for this application.
How long of a lag bolt will I need installing a 2x8 ledger board 2x8 1.75 how much more do I need to go into the concrete thanks is a 5 inch bolt enough
5-inches is a good bet, though some codes don't specify. Some codes will also want you to caulk the top of the ledger board to keep water from getting trapped between the foundation and the ledger. I'd caulk it ABD seal it with flashing tape. Or, create a gap with approved spacers.
if part of my ledger board attaches to the band board and another part attaches to block - whats the solution? tapcons?
Negatory on Tacpons. - Code wants an epoxy anchor. Lags and shields might pass too. Code, where I build, wants "tension ties" under the ledger as well.
Great screws, nice tips.
Really appreciate this. Thank you. There are more videos in this playlist showing more of this deck.
hmm nobody uses "old school" concrete anchors anymore were you tighten with a socket, I'm starting a small project and the house foundation is solid concrete. I'm trying to figure out what size anchors for a 2x8 ledger board. I never thought screws would replace everything I remember. I though you pre-drill hammer the 5/8 or 1/2 anchor and tighten.
For installing a ledger straight to concrete, I'd use 1/2-inch by 5-inch galvanized lags and shield (akas bungs). Drive them in with an impact driver. I show the process here in a deck resurface I recently finished. Check with your inspector. - And yes, the new structural screws are amazing. - ua-cam.com/video/MQvjA66ej8A/v-deo.html
My homes rim joists are wildly uneven. Don't know how they passed inspection. Going to have a hell of a time attaching deck ledger boards.
Structural screws can be driven through center of the mud sill also
Where I build, they can't. Need hold down brackets for mudsills.
Is it fine to paint the ledger board before installing (indoor installation) to prevent getting wet when moist penetrates in an unpaint concrete wall? Any suggestion?
I'm a nobody and know nothing but I'd guess probably not in case it does get wet it would want to breath. My question, why not pressure treated for this piece since it's outside and not tech walked on
No. Pressure treated lumber is too wet to paint when it's new.
Question, when he installs screws to the ledger board, does he actually installs screws to the frame studs or just in the plywood? Thanks!
Hey PT - The screws are threading into the rim (or band) joist. So, no, they're not hitting studs. They're also not just stuck in plywood (that would be bad). They're biting into solid framing. The key here is to have enough of them. I like to use two per joist bay, staggered up and down. Let me know if this helps and thanks for asking.
Good video.
Thank you! We try to make these as accurate and as helpful as possible. I really appreciate your reply.
Great video. I have a question. I'm replacing a very similar deck. When removing the old one, I found there was a bit of rot on the top of the rim joist underneath the sliding door's frame. Would it be best to replace this entire board? Would it make sense to replace the small sections that have rot, or would that compromise the integrity of the rim joist? Or should I simply leave it as it is, since there won't be any more water damage, since I'll be doing this the right way now? Thanks a ton for any help.
Thank you Kevin. Generally speaking, a small amount of rot, "small" being a subjective term, and I don't think the joist or even a section would require removal and replacement. The band joist's integrity is based on it being mainly whole and fastened over many joists. You're right that stopping the moisture will stop the rot. If you have a cool and accessible building department, I'd ask the inspector what he or she thinks. This is a judgement call.
I use the 4-5” yellow lags
Yellow is a coating for sure. And that'll protect the steel. However, a robust exterior coating is what Code is looking for.
Is this peel and stick just roofing ice and water material? What brand is it?
Hey Kayak - Sorry it's taken me a bit to respond. Hours in the day, hours in the day. -- This particular product was a rubber roofing product for seams and patches I got at Home Depot. I thought it was great for deck ledgers but I have not found it since. There are products other guys use called Vycor (I think that's Grace, also maker of Ice and Water Shield) and a few others. Huber's Zip Tape might work too. Please let me know what you find. I can poke around with some friends to get some recommendations as well.
*Sits down at toilet*
"Welcome to the work shop"
Yup. An original. I wish I could have guys over to hang and talk tools in real life.
How do you tackle ledger flashing on a stucco home. Since you can't slide the flashing behind it like vinyl.
The stucco has to come off so you can directly access the home's structure.
@@myfixituplife. So then I would have to bring a stucco guy back into patch the area after flashing installed. Since now the flashing is fully exposed above the 5/4 deck boards. Not behind the houses finished surface.
Hey awesome video bro. Do you need a contractor license to build a deck for someone?
Hi. Building a deck is awesome project. One of our favorites. Whether you need a license depends on your local codes. Also, decks need to be inspected to make sure they are safe. Just search 'deck collapse' and you'll see why. Important safety concerns are post hole depth, connection to the house, the number and placement of posts and joists, and railings.
Where did you get that certain peel and stick?
It was a one-time find at Home Depot. I loved it and have never found it since.
brought to you by Spax
Also brought to you by my exposure to the company at the International Builders' Show in the early 2000s. - Also brought to you by the fact these things are Beast Mode. - Also brought to you by the fact that I need to produce on my jobsites and put food on my table. - What's your world brought to you by?
Do you need to do the peal and stick flashing if the board is covered with tyvek. Also what tool did you use to cut the vinyl siding and is that a hammer drill u are using to drive the power lags
Hi Sadie - Yes, the Tyvek (weather resistive barrier to us nerds) needs to be removed. It is not waterproof by any stretch. Reapply a peel and stick flashing tape as shown and caulk under the door. -- The tool I used to cut the vinyl is a Dremel mini-circular saw. It's a great tool for odd cuts and materials. -- I'm driving the Power Lags with an impact driver. It's Ridgid's "Stealth" model and it has liquid inside it to keep it quieter. It's a bit bulky but I like the tool.
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
Could someone give me some advice. When hanging the ledger, is he having to aim for or put those “lag screws” into studs or is he able to just put them anywhere?
He’s attaching it to the rim joist.
More videos here Dan - ua-cam.com/play/PLdLol426YERTOPn9cloEJDyc0K5CnqHEZ.html -- Also, no, not trying to hit any framing rather than the band joist. I use 2 screws per bay (5/16 x 5, washer-head) 2-inches in from the top and bottom of the ledger, zig-zagged up and down.
Yessir!
Aluminum no buono for flashing onto PT...
Thank you! It is isolated from the PT by a rubber membrane (peel and stick).
No z-flashing? Ouch. Next person will be replacing both a rim joist and the ledger board!
It's flashed. You're right that not flashing it is a big no-no these days. Might have more detail on flashing in this video.
Fasten master deck ledger lags ,..also avoid running decking right under the door sill..
Joe _ I get where you're coming from. First, Spax is a vastly superior screw products across the board. Try 'em and let me know. - Second, there's a code detail where you can't drop the ledger too far below the band joist unless you fasten into concrete. I get what you're saying--potential for a leak--however, there's flashing and caulking here. And think the no-step transition from inside to outside is awesome. - I really appreciate your comment.
Use the product that you feel comfortable with as long as it meets code. As far as the deck being tight to the door I would never do it. Caulk is not a permanent fix. Its only an added barrier. You also should get the house wrap over the flashing especially with vinyl siding. This guy just cost the home owner a bunch of money in a few years. Must have a taillight warranty.
About 90% of deck collapses occurred as a result of the separation of the deck ledger board from the house, allowing the deck to swing away from the house. It is very rare for deck floor joists to break mid-span.
Ledger board construction is the WORSE way to build a deck
I don't know the exact data, but yes, most decks fail at the ledger. That's why we have codes, products and techniques to make this a zero risk proposition. Back in the day we lagged right through vinyl siding. Not any more.
@@myfixituplife Every year the IRC gets closer and closer to outlawing ledgered deck support altogether. Pictures are hung on a wall, wallpaper is hung on a wall...Decks need to be built from the ground up to be reliably safe. The newest IRC calls for approved mechanical devices that tie the homes floor joists directly to the deck's joists that requires opening up floor and ceiling spaces in the home to attach the required hardware and to be inspected. These new requirements now make the job faster and cheaper to put down more footings and post supports and a beam, making the deck self supporting, rather than the ledger board style of hanging the deck on an outside wall.
It's about time.
Never build deck flush to any door it will leak and cause rot. I have built many decks and replaced even more doors because people built them just like that.
I hear where you are coming from. I think properly sealing the door is crucial. Code doesn't want us to drop the ledger too far down the house's band though, for connection purposes.
I agree here, mainly when you're in a zone that gets alot of snowfall. However, I think tripple flashing the house rim to ledgerboard is plenty good. And I do use the existing house wrap to help also. I do not cut it out.
Really.....As long as a professional builder knows how to do it properly, I think it's just fine! Key words here are professional, and properly!!! I'm all about over building, over waterproofing, keeping the home's envelope sealed from air or moisture. And especially connections to the home. In this case, we still need to see a minimum of two pass through connections or pass through equivalent ties. I still like the old fashioned ties and threaded rod to the homes joists. It makes the most sense structurally to me.
I do like to set my ledger lower, for the purpose of snow when I can, but sometimes (especially those budget builds) it's not feasible. I also like to run my joists about 1/8 to 3/16 high on the ledger when I can so there's no direct contact between the decking and ledger flashing whether it be copper or vinyl. I also put a pitch on that final flashing if possible. This is just my preference. It will let the decking breath and let water run off of that final flashing. With composite or pvc decking, every f'n thing gets flashed. Haha.
Just thought I'd share my thoughts on it too. 👍
Take care everyone!
If the door is properly detailed, decay should not be an issue.
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet for super high snow regions, I get it. Especially where the snow doesn’t melt. However, for where I build, this detail-professionally detailed, I like where you’re coming from-works great.
that's why you make a patio roof. problem solved
3 inch long is all you need?
4-inch minimum - 3-inches for framing, 1/2-inch for sheathing. 1/2-inch to penetrate the band joist.
Wow 🤩
I think that's a compliment. Thank you!
how do you flash under the patio door
Run the tape right up to the threshold and caulk the gap. You can fold a second piece of membrane (tape) under the threshold and down the wall too but I think caulk works fine.
I'm replacing an old deck when i took off the old ledger board there is no band joist just blocking in between the joists. should i add a 1x across then install the ledger?
I'd make that a free-standing deck. There's not enough structure to bite into. Sorry to be slow getting back to you. - Mark
how did u install the flashing?
I bent it myself on my sheet metal brake, then I tucked it up under the house wrap (aka WRB) prior to decking. It's not a ton of fun, especially if there are nail in there through the siding.
i love how easy the plans are in *WoodBlueprints. Com* to understand and the step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy
Siding has to go ok I get it but bricks????
Solid masonry, no. Brick veneer: Definitely.
Really hocking those screws barely a second word on anything else, screw code slap a few more of these super powered damn near magic screw on it this man could give billy Mays a run for his money
I'm more of a Phil Swift guy from FlexSeal. But wit, there's more.
Where is the rest of it
The rest of the deck build? 3-part series. Here's #1 - ua-cam.com/video/G3QEyUBR4PM/v-deo.html
Shouldn’t you use stainless steel screws for decks because if you use any regular type of screw you’re only going to darken the wood if it’s redwood or cedar you really want stainless steel screws for those two types of wood and if it’s chemically treated wouldn’t those other screws Deteriorate or decompose over time I know they’re expensive but if you are going through so much work might as well do the best with the best materials!!! Do it right!!!
The Spax HCRx coating is just a smidge below stainless, which is mainly specced in coastal environments. It's awesome. Spax recommends stainless for cedar, mainly in vertical applications, because there can be staining with the tannins in cedar. But for PT here, nothing beats HCRx for speed, connection, and affordability. - I used them on this project too - ua-cam.com/video/MQvjA66ej8A/v-deo.html - I used stainless on this one - ua-cam.com/video/EmNWz-XnMMU/v-deo.html
Are you lip synching on purpose? It's out the timing of mouth and word. Mo key magic. Really enjoyed it. Thanks
Ha! I wish I could lip synch on purpose. Might've been your connection. Didn't notice it on playbacks here. -- And thank you for the kind words. Real day maker there.
Sorry mate. Was meant to be light hearted. Genuinely didn't mean to upset ya mate. I live in rural west Australia and yeah my connection is bad at best and my skin is thicker than a rhino so yeah must be mindful. Col
Is this guy the owner of Badass Construction Company?
Never thought of that name. I did just learn there is such a thing as Bad Ass Extension Cords. True story.
This was just a power lag commercial...come on.
Then I guess all the other decks I've built with them are, what? They work. Whimper on your own time.
Never build a deck with a ledger board. The damage you will do to your house can be disastrous and expensive to correct and repair. .In most jurisdictions if the deck is not attached to your home you do not even need to pull a permit or get an inspection. Build the deck as a free standing structure using a few more posts and footings and leave your home's siding and frame in tact.. The deck can be built as close as 1/2 inch to the house without touching it. No ledger , no flashing, no bolts into the frame of your house ... no rot or damage to the house. No way for water to get in and damage your most valuable investment. Your home.
No permit fees, no inspector fees and no codes to worry about as long as the structure is less than 30 inches above the grade, is not larger than 200 square feet and is not attached to your house in any way, you are good to go with none of the nightmares you potentially subject yourself to with a ledger board...
The money and work you may save on a couple of posts and footings would soon be lost with the costs of flashing, bolts waterproofing and repairs that will inevitably be needed in a few years, permits and inspections.
The conventional way to build a first floor deck with a ledger board is the stupidest thing you can do to your home.
I'm not going to argue with you, Willard but to whomever else might be reading this, we have to get the facts straight. Building with a ledger board is approved by code and done correctly will do no damage to one's home. This deck was inspected. Also, most jurisdictions I'm aware of do require a permit for a free-standing deck. While free-standing decks are sometimes necessary or preferred--and I've built them--they require double the amount of post-holes. So on a modest deck, that's four more holes. If you're digging with a shovel and have a 36-inch depth requirement, that'd be one extra hole that's 12-feet deep. Screws and tape and caulk aren't that expensive.
Sponsored by Powerlag
@@frugalguy1 I’ve been working with them for years. I wouldn’t if they didn’t deliver. I don’t think they sponsored this one though. It’s been a while.
Very soon this will will all become a moot point because ledger boards will be outlawed altogether.
Ledger boards are a dangerous shortcut for lazy, stupid and cheap builders who don't want to spend the money or the time to build a deck properly.
Posts on footings,
beams on posts,
joists on beams,
deck on joists.
ANYTHING else is sub par carpentry.
I appreciate your passion, but ledgers do work and they work extremely well. There was a time when they were a mess, but the mighty DCA - 6 Prescriptive Code has caught up. - Build your decks how you see fit. Have fun digging double the post holes.
Nothing certain
OK
Too much jibirish...just build it.
I can talk.