Building an Attached Deck
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- Full Article: rogueengineer.c...
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very good video. For many people though I'm pretty sure a 9'8" span is max with 24" centers, so definitely good to check local codes, but I think that's what the residential decking code is, but 16" centers would take care of that. Obviously your own local code allows it as permissable, so not trying to say you did anything incorrectly. Great job!
Torrey Denton he’ll be bouncing on that deck
Way better than most decking videos. Will just say the notched posts rot quicker than if the beam is bolted to the side of the post.
This is exactly what I was seeking. I'm building a deck the length of my house 8 feet off the ground. Thank you!!
I like that raised 2 by in the center. Make for a clean look. Good job.
Thanks for posting this video. I watched it again and again for tips as I was building my deck. I used the seam idea and it looks great!
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this [ Check Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!?
Looks really good. I really want and actually need to do a deck like this. Thank u for the video
He helped me out. Always looking for improved ideas. Only one thing I would do different is don't stack the carriage bolts. Go diagonally because stacking could cause a crack.
just done a big deck and i initially thought the same, it looks terrible from the outside as we had 50x50(millimetre) washers too, over 90x90(mm) posts. Not staggered enough so would have looked like a mistake. Also Modern builds in NZ have to be coach screwed into blocking timber so must be in straight vertical line etc. Anyhoo, just some thoughts :)
As a beginner DIY'er and Rookie Licensed Contractor. I build a Attached Deck before with my Cousins and I used 10 inch Spax Power Lag Screws to attach the Ledger Board, No Pre-drilling is Required and the Lag Screw is Heat Treated and have good Quality, I can just use my Impact Driver and drive the Lag Screw onto the ledger Board to the house. And I use a variety of Space Screws, some 5 inch Power Lag, and HCR-x Spax Exterior Deck Screws. I don't use that much nails only for some finish.
I always appreciate the time people put into videos like this. Shows it can be done, but it will be done better by professionals. Thanks for sharing.
My grandpa built his own deck and it meets all codes. He is also a computer engineer, so go figure! 🤪
Until of course you end up with professional cheap arse ..... And that's probably a 50/50 choice
Did you secure the posts to the footings? I see you put them in the hole and back filled. Did I miss something?
Never put your hangers up first cuz all boards are different in width. Just toenail it with a temporary nail then put the hangers on after all the joists are up
This!! I just did it with a jig of a 5/4 and then a 2x8 cutout and attached the hangers. The boards were different. Had to remove all of the joist hangers.
Basic construction knowledge. You sir, are correct.
Joe Momma correct you are, man. Many builders neglect that fact that all joist dimensions are different, resulting in a wavy ass deck 🤦🏻♂️
Datboi Mrqq
I've never built a deck before but I noticed this too. Also, he should have dropped those joists down at least another half inch. The top of the joists are pushing the flashing up, causing any water to flow right back into the ledger board and house, see 4:54. He should have used a self adhesive membrane behind and on top of the ledger board as well. But what do I know... I've never built a deck before.
24" on center joists? In your house, not mine.
Exactly, where do they let you do that. And just screws into ledger no lag bolts?? Not my house. how bout that center board between joist, what happens when the wood expands, a tripping hazard
@@bobbyjuice3935timber screws are actual replacement for lags. Engineered specifically for that.. get good
So I like the raised deck board. I'm planning for a 24x16 deck. I want to do a 16' span and an 8' to later. Later plan is to screen in the 16' span making both parts of the deck seam less.
Nice work, I framed it up with cca lumber and then 5/4 cedar for the decking and also cedar railing..
If you're not going to put flashing behind the ledger atleast caulk the backside of the ledger to keep any and all water/moisture completely out. Never set your post below ground level. Always pour your concrete "quickrete 5000" inside concrete form tubes and set a steel post base just above ground level to insure there will be no water seeping in and soaking up through the bottom of your post.
I also read what someone said about the screws you were using to attach the ledger to the house. As long as they are structural screws they will work just fine. A 1/4 inch diameter structural screw is as strong as a 1/2 lag screw.
I also recommend that anyone always set their joist on 16inch centers. Much better and stronger than 24. Last I would also always use sway supports. Code or not, it's just common sense to stiffen that deck up and make it as strong as possible. Besides that it looked like a really nice deck.
Chris Handy 16” is right code or no code
You are correct about the posts, never put them in the ground. Rent an auger drill and create cement peers to sit your posts on.
On top of that the board and post ends need to be sealed
Also needed some blocking between joists (preferably over the beam and then half that distance to the house ledger).
At 24" centers, that is one big wooden trampoline.
very nice.. will build my own sooner.. I learn a lot from this video.
when you sandwhich those 2 joist what kind of hanger did you use...I like that idea...great job..
I had rusty joist hangers that I’ve since replace with Simpson strong-tie zmax and secured with their SD screws #9-2.5”. However, I notice some gap between the joist and ledger board and beam. Do I need to be concerned with that gap and the double-shear screws not penetrating enough of the ledgerboard and beams? What can I do about that? Fill the gap with some sort of shim? Also, the deck still feels wobbly overall. Should I install some SB16 sway bars diagonally between the joists corner to corner
Ledger Board spacer help with draining too. 😀👍
It would be really easy to lay a pad on the underside and have a screened in porch! Music was tough but I pushed through it.
The door is in the middle of the deck.
Guys I am learning woodworking shed plans at *WoodBlueprints. Com* I recommend this website all you guys who are beginner or advance in woodworking
Why not pour concrete piles to support the wooden columns rather than burrying them in the ground ? Deterioration should be an issue of concern.
No way that particular design choice passed an inspection. Besides the rot issues I would be worried that a strong storm could lift that deck up. Its not attached to anything except the house at the ledger. Current code in most states is you need 12" sonotube piers poured on top of a concrete footer that is below the frost line. So that initial pour they did would be the footer, just needed to put a 12" tube on top of that and pour a pier that comes up a few inches above ground level. Then you can secure your post with a post connector to the pier. Build like that and your posts should last 30+ years.
@@livens100 aren't you fun.. also, guess you didn't see the beginning of the video when he talks about code and how an inspector came by
@livens100 every area is different. I'm a home inspector and posts in wood is still very common in my area. It's much better to do footers and elevate the posts for long term success but it's not that big a deal. Most decks are built by homeowners. There's no structural issue with putting directly in dirt and I've seen posts rotten on top of concrete and buried directly.
Yea, the way they did it is the lazy way
I heard it’s best to put the choice drops after you level the top of the joist to the ledger board since they are all going to be different widths
wood into the ground?!? Crazy idea
concrete is worse for rotting than dirt. it is like a sponge that never dries. attracts water
doc hall p
Never heard of your channel befote and even though you're in the states and have totally different construction standards and styles to us in England I love your videos! Subscribed and liked for sure
A Really Fantastic Build and Video. Enjoyed every bit of it and that Simpson Screw Drive thingy a bob was great, talk about flying through the screw driving process, WOW.
Well Done to you all for a great build.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks Barry! That thing is pretty amazing!
That nail gun tho!!!!! I know what I want for my birthday!!!
Thank you for the video. Why not adding Joist Butyl tape on the joist to prevent from rot?
Looks good man, nice and solid. I need to say though, you didn't use "5 1/4" x 6" Decking!" You used 5/4 X 6" decking. Just saying, if you find 5 1/4X6 your gonna have a thick ass deck! It'd be strong as hell though, lol!!! Just to clarify the difference (for people who don't know what 5/4 is) you WROTE 5 and 1/4 inch by 6 inch decking ( that's a post!) But what you SAID was five quarter 5/4. It is an terms used describing the board thickness in 1/4" increments, i.e. 5/4 = 1 and 1/4 inches.
Haha good catch. Can't believe I didn't catch that myself. And the actual thickness of a 5/4 board after it is dressed is 1".
Yup, just thought I'd throw it out there man, those 1/4 increments kinda threw me off when I first found out about em, figured some viewers might not know. So always happy to flaunt my limited knowledge, lol!
No lateral support on ledger ? Need 1500lb lateral resistance per 2018 IBC
That screw gun is sick!
I want one now!
I going to use my chain saw for everything from now on. Everything
Would love to see the complete finished product with the door. Also would love to know a ballpark price! Other than that your video was insightful sir.
Simpson paid everything
Great Job!
No ledger seal behind the ledger board? I've seen this product behind other ledger boards, available at Lowes, seals the screw or bolt holes.
There should be 3 steps of flashing in all reality. I like to run from no less than 4 inches under the cladding, all the way under the ledger depth. Then install ledger. Then I run another peel and stick from no less than 3 inches above the ledger, and go up over top of the ledger. If There's a house wrap, I will incorporate that in also. When I am doing my 2nd flashing.
Then I run a copper, or vinyl flashing before installing the joists. I will seal the ever loving piss out of anything I think could be an issue within the next 50 years. The flashing detail is important and is too commonly overlooked or not understood. I suggest anyone building a deck follow DCA6 minimum. And check your local adopted code per IRC in your city
Just my opinion. There are several things I would have done differently here on this deck. But overall, it was built better than most people build them, so I won't nit pick. Except the flashing detail! That sucker will rot the band joist of the house before anything happens with the deck needing maintenance. It is what it is now though.
Otherwise...... Nice project. Glad to see the handrail posts inside mounted. Though they do need more suport in my honest opinion. Ok no more nit picking. Lol
Edit. And posts in the ground! That is the most asinine part of the whole thing! I don't even like posts in the ground with a post sleeve, with concrete around it. I saw that and about shit bricks.
Ok now I'm done nit picking. I think
Beautiful job!
realy a Master job,,,,,look like very nice,many thanks for sharing
how did you set the post on top of the footings? did you use any post bases? anchors? or was it just set right on top with out any mechanical fasteners?
MUFFINS!!! MUFFINS!!! He mentions to keep checking the plumb as you backfill. So I believe it’s just sitting on the concrete.
Solid! I want that nail gun, looks vicious!
Haha that thing is vicious for sure!
Tyler G
Curling
No plastic sheet needed to prevent water going down the floor beneath?
Edit please. I only ask one thing. TURN DOWN OR TURN OFF THE MUSIC.
All diys have bad music
amazing work and a great video. very clear instructions..thank you so much!!!
You need to show the finish product more. I was only able to glance briefly
I was interested in seeing the raised deck board.
Sorry guys, as a warning to to anyone building a deck. DO NOT install a ledger board on your house without using the code approved flashing's. This is your last defense against moisture getting to the very foundational elements that holds your house up! I am having to replace the entire sill plate and rim joist on my house (where the deck was) because of improper installation against my house.
That looks amazing...great job
Please consider making future videos without the distracting music that makes it hard to hear the voiceover. Thanks.
NEVER use screws on joist hangers!
they are simpson strong tie structural screws I think just like the nails but quicker.
at 4:20 there is a pretty big gap under the beam. Did that make the deck not level?
Nice 👍. How much it costed you approximately if you don’t mind
Awesome video..!!
Im a first timer wanting to build my own deck.
What advice can u give me?
Solid work!
Looks good but surprised code allowed you to embed the posts in the ground.
Thanks now i realize i can never build a deck lol!
Nice work!
The background music was a lil distracting with your voiceover but great work on the deck
Now come on. Mix your concrete properly
Posts just sit on concrete? And 24" spacing of joist?
24" is fine for a deck. Yes, concrete in the bottom of the holes keeps the post from sinking and shifting over time.
24" on not fine for 5/4. I could nit pick so many things, but I give props to the guy for making a video and sharing.
Cost of the whole project?
So, did you have a bracket on the bottom of the posts that went on the cement or did you just put the post directly on the cement? We are just getting started on our front porch and have never done anything like this before very excited and terrified lol. Just my son and myself poor baby lol. Thank you for this video:)
Evone here is a link to the American Wood Council’s Deck Guide. They now recommend a bracket with anchor on the bottom of the post which you can see on page 13.
awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf
So you didn’t use an anchor when this was done?
how do you access the the deck? Through the window? My apologies for being obtuse - its just I dont see a door anywhere or stairs.
Is it a problem that the wood post is exposed to water at the bottom?
Awesome build n LOVE that Simpson tool...
This is very helpful. Beginning deck next week for daughter. What is the spacing between the railing 4x4 posts? Thanks.
there is more done wrong with this deck build than is done right. I would look elsewhere for proper build videos.
Really good. Your music is too loud, or you need to talk louder. I dig the music :)
Thanks! And yes, this was one of our first videos so we were still getting the hang of audio adjustments.
Great ideas thanks! I looking to make a deck on a double wide mobile home 28ft wide and I need to go 20ft deep any suggestions!
Is it possible (and more sturdy) for the posts that hold your railing to be made from the columns that hold up the entire deck?
The spacing may need to be adjusted for code, but it seems like they’d be a significantly sturdier since they’re buried into the ground. The pivot point on railings seems like a weak spot in almost every deck I’ve seen. Just a question...
Question, how are people getting on to that deck? Are they climbing out the window ? didn't see a door
After the deck was built we swapped the windows with doors.
Good video but i have a hard time to hear what you're saying because of the music.
Finally, a deck build video that looks well built and like it meets most regional codes! Do you think doing joist blocking across the entire deck would have helped any for bounce or joist twist? I'm planning on a build a 10' deck as well when weather cools down here.
Thanks! The only blocking required where I am is by the deck posts but more would never hurt. We don't have any bounce in the deck though right now.
could you just run the post higher if you want to add a roof?
No, there is a bit more that goes into that. You would need posts and headers to carry the trusses. The post for the handrails (if that's the posts you're referring to) won't support a roof
How far down did you dig for your post holes?
No staggered joints on deck boards??
I believe nails have better shear strength vs. screws for the ledger board. That is clearly the one feature you need to over engineer as it is the most common failure point.
IMHO, you did a perfectly "adequate" job but there is certainly room for improvement. You have skills but chose to opt for a quick, cheap and adequate job. Next time, spend the extra day and a few more bucks and build something you can be proud of. Something that will last a much longer time.
My .02c's...
Level the posts relative to each other- not off the ground or building. It is the same when leveling outlets. Never measure from the floor as it is never level. You will see this when you install the backsplash. It will be off.
Never notch a post.
Watch your hand when using that nail gun- get it off the beam.
Wear hearing protection. Always. Don't ask me how I know.
24" on center is again, under engineering. Just because it is allowed by code does not mean it is best.
Lose the distracting club music.
I am assuming you were using 6 x 6 because of the height of the deck? Or is it common practice to use a 6 x 6 even on a deck at 3 feet above grade?..... If 4 x 4 are used, assuming screwing deck frame into the face of the 4 x 4 rather notching it out like the 6 x 6?
Oh and, I do like that miter saw...
That's because of the hight if the deck. Anything above 6 ft of the ground calls for 6x6 posts.
Gregory Kalarjian why go with less. The saving is nominal
@@dattape2828, believe it or not, some people do care about the $20 difference per post on 4x4 to 6x6. Yes, it is always good to mention why a 6x6 is more convenient, but when you need 12 posts then that's $240 that people want to save. I would go for 6x6, but that's just me or other people like you.
lohengrinknight long run it’s going to cost you in pain. Splitting leads to weakness. Bigger is just stronger and more stable. Risk of failure leads to danger we are not talking about wood for railing here. If homeowner is not maintaining the stain then it’s a goner. Ok you are right. Some people don’t care as much or don’t think about it
what I hate is years later when you get tired of cleaning it and the mold gets the upper hand
How to tie ledger to I joist my house does not have a normal rim joist, the part of the house the deck will attach to has a I joist running parallel with the deck ledger.
nice work!
Thanks Chad!
Sooo, sponsored by Simpson?
Or did that jacket come with the fasteners?
Nice job!
derek benavides thanks!
How many days took to build it
How did you pass inspection with NO FLASHING behind/above your ledger board? A disaster waiting to happen...
Did you set your deck to certain increments so as to get all your railings with the same spacing,,
No I just spaced the railings as they needed to be for even spacing and made the decking work around it.
@@rogueengineer so you built the deck to suit the railing lengths, cheers
Did you do the bottom?
Those were 6x6 posts right which are actually 5.5" wide, so when you cut out your 3" for the two 2x10's (1.5" wide) you would be left with 2.5" on those posts to attach your lag bolts too?
So do you recommend 8x8s?
one question. how you getting out there? climbing through a window lol
Looks like they are prepping for a door in the center.
Didn’t see a Gap to let water to pass thru or dry against the wall?
We use drip edge flashing around here.
Rogue Engineer yes you did show that. I wonder if there is any advantage or disadvantage either way? Thanks for a good video.
How much load will this deck support safely?
Ty for the video bro.
Great work!
Looks great!
Thank you nice job
Did I miss something on the video , by lining up the joist and post. how did you line the post and the joist.
just ordered the *WoodBlueprints. Com* guide for step-by-step videos and different plans to BUILD A SHED. they have some awesome plans in there
This deck looks sharp ...
Beautiful work!
Good job!
You should set about 3inch concrete prior to dropping in your posts as you can take a laser level from the bottom of the footing. This means you can cut your posts accurately and safely. On the bench!
You should have sealed your posts prior to back filling, you can burn/scorch the wood to carbonise it and prevent water ingress or use plastic sheet wrapping.
You should have mixed your concrete properly before back filling. You also did not air it out by disturbing the mix in the hole.
Cross bracing is a very good idea as others have highlighted and did you string line your posts in both directions ?
I hope you learned alot from this project!
Gracias
Nice job
How did you connect the posts to the footings? Should I use the galvanized cleats or sink the 6X6 post directly into the concrete?
You actually don't have to connect the posts to the footings. I just set mine on top of the footing and back filled it.
Rogue Engineer is that even secured just back filling it?
So your beams aren't secured to your footings... oh boy lol
You should never set your post below ground. Always set above ground and attach to a steal post base to avoid water seeping in the bottom of the post and rotting it out and also keeping the base supported better.
Buddy, that was top shelf! Great job!
how much is the total cost for this project?
Good Job