I WOULD DO THIS DIFFERENT NOW JUST REPACK THE BEARINGS WITH GOOD GREASE AND PUT SEALS BACK ON.
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- Опубліковано 24 вер 2024
- Please read the comments before you change your bearings if i would do this again i think i would just repack the top bearing and put the seal back on and maybe still take the seal off the bottom bearing.
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a grease gun puts out 10 000 psi. them covers will not stop it , thats what they are loose fitting dust covers , not seals , pump grease until you see it come out ends of spindles it will go threw bearing like the covers are not even there , thats how they are designed to work , no need to remove bearings to remove covers , it will take 40-50 pumps to fill when new and like 6-8 when maintaining them to purge contaminated grease out and fill berrings with new grease , remember every time you remove them berrings the soft aluminum spindle. gets egged out a bit and before you know it you will have a spun bearing and your spindles will be junk , you will then have to peen the bearing in and use some loc tight bearing retainer
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching
Thank you. This is what I've been confirming over the past few days after receiving my Cub Cadet Ultima ZT1. Planning to update them with a zerk fitting so I can properly grease and maintain them for years.
The grease will go straight up the shafts and out the top or bottom as its an easier route and peeps will assume there greased Personally i like to disassemble the lot and repack the bearings Then i know there greased
The path of least resistance it will follow, the shaft bearing “should “be tighter than the loose fitting dust covers on bearing , also by taking bearings in and out unnecessarily you will egg out the soft aluminum spindle, and will have a spun bearing and junk spindle before too long
I am 77 yo, I started my apprenticeship on April 1 firs1959 in Germany and I am still learning to this day. To install the upper bearing use a pipe that is a hair smaller than the outer race never hit on the inner race because you will ruin the bearing at installation, also grease bearings before installing.
Thanks for your comment sir hope your holidays are good.
I was being Born in 1959, then I too went to Germany in 1976. alot of good Memeoies over there.
If you are replacing them its easier to use old bearings to pop them in.
Curtis, I was in Germany in 1976 in the Army. We are the same age. Might have met in Germany. Where were you stationed?@@curtismoore6387
I was a mechanic for 40+year! I can see from a lot of misguided information you folks are confused about what constitutes a sealed bearing and a caped bearing… A lawnmower Spindle bearing is capped not sealed! Don’t believe find a sealed bearing and try and remove the the seal without damaging it! NOT GOING TO HAPPEN! You will tear it up getting it out! Now a caped bearing on the hand has a removable cap like the ones demo on other videos! They call them sealed! WRONG. Fill that spindle enough to get pressure and you’ll see grease! If it were sealed you’d blow the bearings out and still not get grease to penetrate. Please Google the definitions of a sealed bearing opposed to a capped bearings! I’ve got a 21 year JD145 and I’m overhauling the deck for the first time! I’ve always greased the three spindles. Never been replaced. I rest my case😅
Many years ago I went to the SKF Bearing Maintenance Training. I highly recommend it. Some takeaways: (1) The bearings in this video are 2 type. Double sealed, as seen in the bearing with the black seals . And the bottom bearing is a combo seal and metal shield. The metal shield offers better protection with all that debris being churned up during cutting. (2) Sealed bearings are factory filled to 20% capacity with grease. (3) Shielded bearings create less heat from friction than their sealed cousins. Now, the number one reason for mower spindle bearing failure is that the grease gets used up. We've all pulled out spindle bearings and found them bone dry. Yes, the zerk fitting is to pump grease into the spindle cavity to prevent the shaft from freezing to the shaft spacer. It's a waste to fill the cavity just to grease the shaft/spacer. I use anti-seize. But if you could keep grease in your mower bearings they will probably last until the deck rusts away. Once a year I use a needle greaser to add grease. 360 hours/12 years and still going. The bearings are 6204-2RS. 2RS= double sealed. Cheers.
very good info thank you for commenting
The anti seize goes on the 2 bolts on each blade that hold blade to bearing shaft ..they tend to grow on
Very good info! There's a lot to bearing engineering and lube. Two other reasons the spindles are packed with "life Time grease: Manually, greasing can inject dirt and other debris through the grease fitting. And replacing spindles is easier and yields more profit for mechanics and dealerships than changing bearings. LOL
@@czellner5894 The often heard term "lifetime grease" is a misnomer. No bearing lasts a lifetime without adding grease at some point. Yes, replacing spindle assemblies is easier, but I make more profit by replacing the bearings. I don't buy the ebay Chinese spindles because the lack of quality will come back to bite me in the arse. So I purchase quality bearings in bulk, and can swap them out faster than ordering spindles and waiting.
My original bearings lasted 16 years, mowing 2.5 acres. I bought eBay made in india spindles with sealed bearings. How long do you think they will last without removing the dust covers and greasing them?
I said something to my local John Deere dealer about these bearings being sealed and he was not happy. To bad. He said I hate social media. I said I don't, This is how I find out things they don't want me to know. Now I service my own mower.
Thanks for commenting have a good summer
Im having a dealership issue as well, they want to sell me the entire (3 of them) spindles instead of just bearings, not the first time theyve tried to screw me around, just have to bypass them to get what I need.
If you want to financially survive, then everyone should learn how to service their own equipment. Now to contradict myself, I've made some nice side money servicing my neighbors small engines.
@@manandatractor
That’s not not a contradiction - you’re providing a service and your time and skill aren’t free.
The seals are not a problem, it's the lack of grease pumped into the spindle to fill the cavity at manufacturing. With enough grease in the spindle all that is required is a few pumps once a year and the grease will pass through the seals and lubricate the bearings.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
Here I Sit At 3:00 AM Unable To Sleep Because I Have Things On My Mind And Then I Watch This Video About The Bearings In Mower Deck Needing To Be Greased. Just Something Else For Me To Worry About. Thank You For An Informative Video.
Thanks! The only thing I would do differently would be to pack bearings by hand and fill the cavity with grease while I could. That way it would not take very many strokes with grease gun to keep the bearings full when doing regular maintenance.
Thanks for watching
Hey Jim, I have a lot of respect and admiration towards you. I love the fact that your intention is to share knowledge. However, when someone comments that your input might be wrong, you humbly thanks that person and advices all viewers to read all comments. You are a good man! Keep up the good work. God bless you!
Thanks for watching Lucas
I have a 6 ft. mowing deck by Landpride. Last summer I replaced all the spindles, pulleys as one big unit, and I believe I have three or four of those spindle units that wore out. To think the bearings are sealed when you have a grease fitting to shoot grease in is a joke on us. So greasing doesn't do a thing because the seal shields it. But even taking the seal off doesn't do much either because grease follows gravity down and can never reach upwards and stay there to feed the bearings. If I were you, I would have greased the bearings by hand, then reinstalled them, and not expect the grease to revitalize those bearings when you pull the trigger.. It''s the same as doing a automotive brake job. When the bearings are good, clean them up, and repack the bearings with a glob of grease in the palm of your hand, and slap the bearings into that glob to force all the grease it can take. I'm not sure if removing the plastic cover resolves the problem of the bearings finally getting all the grease it needs. So then what is the purpose of designing zerk grease fittings into a lawn mower that does no good. It gives you a peace of mind when you decide to buy the mowing deck, until you get to that ah-hah moment years later when you realize it didn't matter. It's a marketing ploy and a design flaw.
I agree I think now this would be a better way thank you for the comment
I’m happy you are showing how to make them last 10 plus years and keep them greased
Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this instructive video! I purchased a JD 345 with a 42" deck 2 seasons ago, and need to pull the deck prior to the first mowing this spring .... I'm def going to service the bearings prior to reinstalling. I've been a JD owner for decades, and never knew till recently that "sealed bearings" couid even be serviced! I've learned thru you and others that they can! I'm wondering how many bearings over the years I could've saved by simply tearing into them!! Thanks again. P.S. it's refreshing to hear a guy put a video together without putting up with the foul language!! You are obviously a man with some moral ethics .... KUDOS, and thnx again!
Thanks and thanks for watching
The zero fitting is there to grease the grease the inside of the spindle house to keep WATER OUT. As a mechanic for over 45 years I replace spindle housings all the time in mower decks from damage and water. Many when you grease them you can see it push the water put past the bearings. Sealed bearings will run for years if you keep the water out. And NEVER WASH A HOT MOWER DECK.
Thanks for the advice have a good summer
Makes you wonder about that wash port. First thing I took off.
@@joehead1294 I use my wash port on my 50" Toro ZTR. BUT I also drilled and tapped my spindles, and they got pumped full of grease after I finished using the wash port a few times a season. No room for moisture with spindles oozing grease from both sides.
Mechanic for 45 years and never learned that the grease is for the bearings. That’s a tragedy. Pump till
They are full and grease gets into
The bearings too then they last more than a few years they will last forever then you don’t need to replace them and go into the unit. Water being pushed out is a benefit but not the purpose of the zerks. Good grief. I’m not even 45 years old and I figured that much out.
see a vid called "don't trust the experts grease your mower deck sealed spindle bearings common sense maintenance" . you've got to completely fill the housing w/grease though .
Thanks for watching
I did this to my '66 cub cadet deck idler pulley. Everyone thought I was nuts. That was 20+ years ago, and it's still mowing.
Thanks for watching
Hello Jim. I have to change the bearings in my Shivvers Country Clipper zero turn about every 4 years. I have tried putting the new ones in with the seals intact, and also with the inner seals removed so that new grease reaches the bearing cage. There doesn't seem to be much difference in overall longevity either way. I will recommend that if you choose to keep the seals intact, you should not "over grease" the spindles, as the grease pressure will push the inner seals into the ball cage and the bearing will soon be toast. This will happen even if the spindle is equipped with pressure relief vents. They don't open until the pressure reaches 5 psi, which is still too much force for the seal to not be damaged. A very good video. You do a great service to the home DIY guys. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for the well explained comment I hope this helps someone.
Great point about pressures within the spindle. Sealed bearings are used to help keep the grease inside the spindle. Removing one side will put all the load on the outer seal and likely cause its failure. Also, the average spindle generates enough heat to somewhat 'liquify' lithium grease. If it's properly maintained, pressure will seep some of that liquidy grease into the sealed bearings.
I don't have that problem. Here in the PA Pocono mountains we grow nothing but many sizes of rocks. Each winter they grow. I brake spindle mounts before the grease wears out.
Thanks for watching take it easy on the rocks
40 minutes in to owning a brand new Deere my deck decided to go in to self destruction mode after i hit a stump. Deck, blades and spindles all busted...
It's amazing how they work themselves to the top
@@langora5804 holy crap that sucks
@@grandwaha If i want to dig a hole for a plant I feel like I am digging in a gravel pit. You can't stand on the shovel as it only goes down an inch or so. Enjoy the spring!
Pack the bearing before reinstall.
thanks
No you don't have to , take the inside seals off and after you put everything back together just grease it til the grease starts to come out that means the grease has gone all the through the bearings just a cleaner way of doing it ! And use a plastic hammer !!
I not only pack the bearing but I also manually fill the spindle as well. Grease cartridges are expensive and there is so much space that you can use up an entire cartridge before you get enough grease in there to even reach the bearings.
If you pump your grease till it comes out the top and bottom of the spindle the bearings will take grease.
thanks for watching
You did good job on the video Sir, after a few years of messing with bearing I will give one piece of advise.Always press or tap the bearing in place by the outer race.When you tap on the inner it can damage the balls and cause it to over heat and jam up.Learned the hard way and burt a belt up.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
My John Deere spindle bearings are: 1. top bearing sealed, 2. bottom bearing open on the side that is facing into the grease area, and the bottom of it is sealed. I can understand why they did it this way. A. If the top bearing is open on the side facing the grease, there's a chance that, when the bearing warms up, the grease will gradually drain out of it and cause it to run dry. A sealed top bearing is far more reliable than an open one, B. Having the bottom bearing open on the side facing the grease area, can be filled with the grease when a grease gun is used to fill the cavity. Leaving the bottom side seal intact prevents the grease from running out and it seals the bearing from moisture and debris.
The truth is, most homeowners never bother to grease these spindles, just run them until they fail. Nowadays, a generic replacement spindle is about $25 (2021 price), so it's not such a big expense to just replace the entire spindle assembly when the old one fails and starts making noise. And, it's a good time to clean the spindle mounting area on the deck and spray a little paint on it to help prevent rust.
Thanks for commenting and watching my video hope your having a good summer
Alternately, you can schmoosh grease into the bearings themselves and the put the cover back on. It's more work compared to leaving them off and using a grease gun in the future, but it helps keep them clean and from getting sand or other particles in them over the years
Also, at least for the top bearing that has a removable cover that is outward facing, you don't have to completely remove them like you did - just remove the cover, push in some grease, and put the cover back in. Gotta love applying the knowledge I gained skateboarding to fixing tractors 😉
Thanks for the tip, thanks for watching
Very good video on explaining on how most bearings have seals on both ends.
Thanks for watching
I suggest using the same grease as is intended for the bearings in boat trailers. It repels water.
Thanks for watching
I just redid everything on the mower deck. On the D125. After ten years of beating the crap out of it. I never even greased anything ever. only changed the motor oil. What I found was the two spindle pulleys the 7" dia ones were starting to strip out their centers.The spindles had like 1/16 play on the shaft . I replaced both spindles, and both pulleys neither of those pulleys had much wear in them, and deck belt, I've replaced the deck belt like three times now.I must have put six sets of blades on this D125. Rocks are hell on blades. I just replace the drive belt for the first time. I also had to straighten out the mower deck, ,as I had bent it int so much the blades hit it. Yes I truley beat this thing up. My thought is simple, I won't touch those bearings at all. I think If you grease the spindle the force of a grease gun wii force grease into those bearings. If nothing else the grease in those bearings can't go out either.The spindle cavity if full of grease and pressurized bye the grease gun. Maybe it works past those seals? Bottom line I'm not going to disassemble those spindles. I'll replace the entire unit, if it gets play into them.
Wow sounds like my mower will last forever my lawn is not very hard on it. Thanks for watching
depends on the particular bearing about the seal....the easily removed plastic seals are not really good seals and some grease/oil will pass through. Then there are the bearings with metal seals, they tend to seal better but also will allow some passage of oils from the grease. I have a John Deere mower bought new in 1997, it has the exact same set up for the mower deck you are showing here. The bearing type is metal seal, I know because today I took one spindle apart so I could get bearing size to order new ones. I have always pumped grease as regular service and just now I am getting some bearing play on one spindle. This mower has seen several thousand hours of mowing, heavy mowing for a lot of it. When I replace the bearings I am going to remove the seal on the inside face of the bearings, that will allow grease into the bearing. I will not drill a weep hole, I want to assure that pressured grease reaches into both bearings, even if the remaining outer seal ruptures. I regularly grease the spindles anyway so the bearings would be flushed often if and when a seal gives way to grease pressure. I have been doing that kind of modification for bearings on all kinds of machinery since the 1960's and it works superbly.
Thank you watching and for the explanation
I used to think the same, but completely filling the housing with grease will push grease right past the seals, in one side and out the other on both top and bottom bearings. Try it yourself.
I have changed they way I think about this now that’s why I say to read the comments. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment hope your summer is good
I agree with you 100 percent. If you pump in enough grease, it will actually get past the plastic seals into your bearings. There are videos proving this.
I had to replace my bearings and spindles. I pumped them so full of grease that it was hydraulically pushing against the bearings and housing. So now I take out both seals on the bottom and the inside of the top. Also, if you go to an industrial bearing supply, you can get a stronger bearing for just a few dollars more. A bearing designed to last years in a factory will last you for a decade.
Thanks for the advice
Jeff Webb Perfect answer from another man that spent many years with bearings always wet ,water soaked.
Thanks for watching
I think the grease would have by passed the rubber shield IF the spindle had been injected with enough grease to fill it and pressurize it. Works for me. Fill'r up!
Thanks for watching
I think it would follow the path of least resistance, so would the grease not go out the spindle gap before going through the bearing cover since it’s a tighter gap.
Great job on the video. Instead of fill that void with grease I pop my bearings out, take off the seals, clean and repack the bearings. Then I put the seals back on. At the first sign of wear I replace the bearings. Regular price at Princess Auto is $4.99 and they go on sale for 1/2 price. 6203-2RS & 6204-2RS. Take Hans Nielsen advice for installing the bearing. Thanks for your time on making this video.
Awesome thanks for the info, thanks for sharing
Which one is it? 6203 or 6204?
@@lkevonly One of each. One is for the top and the other is for the bottom.
The whole purpose of the sealed bearings is to keep the grease in and the water out, when the grease is gone, or they get water in them and fail, its time for new bearings. They likely just put the grease fitting there to appease those who felt they needed to grease the spindles. The bearings in my spindles are original from 1995 and still going strong. I pulled them out and repacked them about 8 years ago with some synthetic grease when I repainted the deck.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Purchased my simplicity 25 years ago ,been greasing spindles once a season since ,never had problems ,never apart !
Thanks for commenting and watching my video
Yeah me too remove all dusk covers refill until you see clean grease. Never replaced spindles in years.
You’ll never begin to get that with simply leaving those sealed bearings as they are. Whatever they pretend is grease today in those sealed bearings is so thin it’s nearly invisible.
@@drizler That’s why I removed all the seals & grease them every couple hours.
You still need to drill a pressure relief hole in the spindle housing opposite the grease fitting to let out the pressure when greasing the spindles. As soon as the relief hole starts squirting grease the spindle is full and your ready to go. If you do not have a relief hole in the spindle housing you run the risk of blowing out the other seal on your bearing do to excessive pressure on it without a relief hole. Make the relief hole 1/16" in size to 1/8".
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
There is pressure relief fitting that can be installed like a second zerk. It is like a backward zerk in that with enouh pressure the spindle contents are released. My Ventrac mower decks have these. The "rubber" seals will allow grease to pass by them inward to ball bearings and cage.
The way the guy at the bearing supply explained to me : metal shield are designed so metal shield does not contact metal race so grease may flow past. Plastic , rubber whatever is designed for a contact seal. . So following that ,if you want to be able to re-grease maybe for bottom bearing put metal down (to "vent" and remove upper seal of that bearing. My limited experience is the top bearing can last a long time (25 year old DR field and brush mower, still good factory top bearing) so, seems like leaving top as sealed is OK. I am going to leave both mine as sealed
thanks for watching and thanks for the info
Its not just John deer.
My cub cadit didnt have the tube inside and the inside of thd grease chamber was as large as yours
Without pumping 4oz or a full tube of grease into both or all three spindels your berring could never get greased. Me i hand packed them full took off all the pullies and hand packed the berrings.
See 3 winters ago i took off the deck to fit the snow blower on then wShed the deck and put it away for winter figuring it would dry out.
Well it was dry the next spring but so were the berrings they made all kinds of niose loud very loud.
Thats when i took it all apart and added a high temp high speed grease after running with the PTO on for a few min it got quite agine
Sure the berrings got some dammage but i didnt run it very long just a few min, so it was only some rust wd49 fixed that.
No problems after 3 summer seasons. And i did take the dust caps off thd berrings you pump more grease in untill it pushes some out both sides. Thd ideler pullies have to be done by hand each one new is about 35 bucks.
And you cant replace the berrings its welded togather john deers are rivited thoses you can dril out the rivits and put short bolts and nuts in. Look on youtube somone shows how. Why would you spend 50 bucks to replace a 2 dollar berring
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching
What I really want is solid rubber tires for a D125. Ones that can never go flat. Everything in Arizona has thorns, big thorns. I'm tired of flat tires. I air up this D125 every time I use it.
Sounds like a pain in the butt. Thanks for watching
I've been working on centrifugal pumps for many years, nothing kills a ball bearing quicker than over greasing.
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching
Same goes for superchargers, and high volume air pumps. We're conditioned to the way we used to pack old Timken spindle bearings on a car. But SKF will tell you 20% fill is what a sealed bearing needs. More equals excessive heat= bearing failure.
I watched a video of another guy who demonstrated how the grease DOES get in the bearings if you pump enough in there because it penetrates the rubber seal I also wonder why not pack your bearings with grease when you had them out then reseal ? but I do enjoy your videos of your know how and maitenace so good job keep going
thanks for watching
Very informative show of displaying full pully pulling , checking pulls bearing n greasing n reinstallation with a good video. Thanks buddy.
your welcome Thanks for watching 👍
What genius engineer designed that!
sell more bearings that way
What genius? One who is trying to make the spindle ass'y last in a very dirty environment. The grease in the sealed bearing is for lubrication. The grease you pump into the zerk is for dirt barrier & purge. The 'genius' as you put it, is the clown who defeats a good system because he doesn't understand the design.
Don't blame the engineer, blame the "bean counter" that told him to do it!!
Great video man thx. Many people grease the fitting on the spindle and don't realize the bearing is sealed and gets no grease.
Thank you
I was waiting for you to pack the bearing with grease before ya installed them back in
That would be a good idea
Definitely should pack the bearings before reinstalling, your not giving the bearings a good head start, ALWAYS pack your bearings.
Good Job
What do you think the pressure from the grease gun is going to do when he fills the cavity? No sense in doing extra work if it will just happen later.
I am so glad I found your site... Your videos are so well explained... I just finished making the ramps following your video. Without it forget it... Also I’m brand new to John Deere and again I’ve learned so much from your videos... it’s my first ever lawn tractor... my wife bought it for me cause I’ve had two back surgeries and I can’t walk to good... Anyway Jim, thanks so much and god bless my friend... you have a fan for life... Raymond...
that is awesome glad you like my channel i try very hard to make my videos easy to understand. God bless you and your family also.
Also i always have links below my videos if you use them that also helps support my channel it does not matter what you buy, does not have to be what is in the link. Just trying to let everyone know since my wife is quitting her job to stay home and homeschool our boys.
DIY with JIM oh wow Jim, I’ll be taking a look at those links...
Sealed bearings and bearings made to be greased don’t have the same type of seal. If you remove the inside seal then later you grease the spindle with a pneumatic or electric grease gun, you can push the outer seal out. Just put the grease in real slow and stop when you feel resistance. If grease comes out make sure the seal didn’t pop out. I recommend drilling a tiny weep hole in the spindle opposite from the grease zerk near the top. When grease comes out that tiny hole the spindle is full.
Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching
I think it is best to keep the seals in place. I removed the bearings on my D130 spindle. One is black plastic cover on both sides and the other is black plastic and metal on one side. Now I don't remember which side the metal one should face. Top or bottom towards the inside of the cylinder or out. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching
Man, I am new to the channel and wanted to thank you for the video on the deck adjustment. I just bought a John Deere LA 105, needed some adjustment. Thanks for showing how to do it the right way.
Glad I could help
I got the La 115 purchased 2008 300 hours.
If that motor turns 3600 rpm, in an hour long cut the bearings have spun over 200k times. In a season that's many millions.
In the first cutting season of my E140 one of the spindle bearings went out and I didn't notice (headphones on) until it allowed the pully to drop and it ate one of the mounting screws down to the deck. The pieces of the bearing were spread across my yard lol and I greased after every cut but apparently the grease wasn't getting to the bearing. It was a busy summer so I replaced the entire spindle but I'm now changing them and packing the new bearings. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching
I've been modifying these bearings and spindle housings for years. Yes the bearings do get grease and the decks rust away before the bearings fail. If you're afraid do do something you won't accomplish anything.
Thanks for watching my video and commenting
I saw a YT video that showed the grease gets pumped thru the bearing past the seals, and comes out the other side. Bearing were sealed on both sides, and he showed a inside of the bearing before and after pumping, and the new different color grease came thru. Don't recall the link, but the seals flex enough to let grease get pumped past them. And the seals did not pop off and stay out of place. Was surprising.
Thanks for watching
Dummer & Dummer designed a greasable spindle and used sealed bearing ! Brilliant 😮
Thanks for watching
@@DIYJIM If you pump enough grease into the spindle it will enter the sealed bearing. Just saw it demonstrated on another site.
Grease passes through on my Hustler. The aftermarket spindles didn't have zerk fittings so I drilled and tapped them. Took a ton of grease but it did begin to push around the dust covers. Mine look like your bearing with the black rings. I can't call them sealed because mine are just some kind of fibrous dust cover.
What I will do on my other mower is grease them real good with a grease needle using red-n-tacky grease. Needles are 3 for $6 at Amzn. Reusable of course.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Great Video Jim! You talked+ walked through step by step - A+! TKS MUCH! DON!
Thanks
Excellent video! I just had one of my spindles ware out after 150 hours. I'll replace both and remove the seals in both and hope I do better than 150 hours. Thanks !
Welcome, thanks for watching
The bearings with the plastic seal that covers the bearings can be popped off to repack the bearing, after about 2 to 3 years the grease breaks down, yes even high temp grease. Bearings should be repacked, but NOT left open to the elements. Jeff Webb is 100% correct the grease fitting isn't for the bearings it's for the shaft because it's a friction point. On a side note if the bearings look slightly different it's because they are, on that plastic seal is a Alpha numerical code that says what type of bearing it is. Many times you can purchase new bearings for a fraction of the cost that the Lawn mower company is selling by ordering new bearings with that code. I cringed when he pounded the new bearing in with a hammer, always use a block of wood and a hammer.
thank you for the advise and thank you for watching
I've been doing this for years in my shop for my customers , but I only do the bottom , never the top because gravity will pull the grease out and have never had a bearing fail by repacking using Lucas Red & Tacky !!
Thanks for the info hope you have a good summer
@@DIYJIM 😉👍
Makes sense. I wouldn't have thought about the gravity aspect. I'll definitely reseal the top bearings.
i agree i think this is a good idea but i am not taking mine apart again
Can't beat that Lucas red and tacky,use it on my truck also. Good stuff,cheap insurance.
That was a very good video I'm going to watch this a little more and learn how to do my deck like that thanks
Thanks for watching
not trying to argue , just spread info . see a vid (after viewing all of this one , and giving a "like") called "don't trust the "experts" grease your mower deck sealed spindle bearings" . also , with or without seals in place , you must fill the entire spindle housing with grease before it'll get into both bearings .
Thanks for watching
I replaced the open bearings with sealed (metal not plastic) bearings about 500 hours ago. I don't see the need to grease the bearings when a good bearing will last and not need to be greased. I sourced the *Fafnir bearing (about $6 each) and they have been great.
Thanks for the good info and thanks for watching
I appreciate the video. I would leave the sealed bearings sealed .I'd like to see if the greased unsealed bearings actually last longer
I'm going to see how long they last because I am not taking apart again until they wear out, thanks for watching
I think we're going to need some put brand new spindles on there mower do one spindle removing seals and the other leave stock and do same maintenance to both and see How they last? Hopefully someone down South that mows year round to get results sooner!
Another excellent video. Another step could be to pack the bearings by hand then reinstall. Sort of belt and suspenders.
thanks for watching
As a machinist, I can tell you the number one cause for bearing failure is over greasing them. Excessive grease causes heat and quickly destroys the bearing, Quality sealed bearings are far superior and have a much longer life span than unsealed greaseable bearings. Cheap china sealed bearing sometimes have the incorrect amount and type of grease and are prone to early failure.
Thanks you for the info and thanks for watching
How true it is. In a former life I ran large commercial fishing vessels in Alaska. A new guy to the boat wanted desperately to become our engineer so we let him do some of the more mundane chores in the engine room. A month later a bearing seized on one of our main circulating pumps, actually ate itself, pieces everywhere - something I had never seen or heard of in 15 years. I replaced the bearing at sea and when we got back to town I mentioned the failure to an old mechanic buddy who repeated your statement word-for-word - basically too much grease will kill a bearing. So when i got back to the boat I checked the other three pumps and they were packed full of grease. The light bulb went on - remember that new guy? When told to give the pump bearings one pump of grease once a week he figured that packing them full would be better. More is not always better. BTW, no greenhorns were harmed as a result of this incident. PS - I have always shied away from those 'bearing buddies' for trailers from this experience.
Also as a Machinist, I will agree too much grease causes heat. Lightly grease them manually and put the covers back on.
I think the sealed bearings are the best way to go. Without the seal the grease spins out. The grease zerk it to lube the spacer and shaft inside the spindle housing. For residential use My bearings are going on 6 years no problem. Commercial users need to buy HD Mowers.
Agree thanks for watching
When the top bearing warms up, gravity will let the grease fall out and run dry. Bottom will work if you do not over grease. There is a way to take take out top seal and repack it with synthetic grease. Then replace top rubber seal. Too much grease and bearing will run hot.
Thanks for commenting
I know this is old but... So few people know the truth. A sealed bearing uses a rubber ot plastic ring to keep oit dust and debris. However greese can easily be push by that seal when greasing with a grease gun. Shielded bearings use a metal pressed in disc that goes with that rubber one would go. These are packed at the factory and are not serviceable most of the time. That shield keeps out pretty much everything. You can get a bearing in any combination of open sealed or shielded. I challenge everybody next time you take your spindles off to service them clean it all out clean out your bearings put the seals back in and pump it full of grease then take your bearings back out and you will see the grease got packed into the bearings when you greased it with your grease gun through the zerk fitting. It's literally how it was meant to work.
Thanks for your videos... I just greased we’ll attempted to grease mine yesterday...guess I’ll need to do this change to make it really stick. Thanks again keep the vids rolling God bless as well
Glad you like my videos thank you for watching and leaving a comment it helps my channel. Also i always have links below my videos if you use them that also helps support my channel it does not matter what you buy, does not have to be what is in the link. Just trying to let everyone know since my wife is quitting her job to stay home and homeschool our boys.
Bought a John Deere S130 last fall, so starting to get into maintaining it. Recently greased the front wheel hubs, steering spindles and front axle pivot and was undecided on whether or not to grease the blade spindles. I watched a few videos on the subject along with this one and found the videos and the comments to be very interesting.
At first, it made sense not to grease the spindles since the bearings are sealed, figuring to add bearing grease as necessary down the road. The argument for no spindle greasing was supported by the fact that some spindles have no grease zerks at all.
Then, some suggest (like your video) to remove the inside covers on the bearings to allow periodic packing of the bearings by filling the spindles. Initially, I gave consideration to this idea until I investigated a little further. One reason against this was the possibility of gravity pulling the grease out of the top bearing. Another was the possibility of popping the outside bearing covers off due to the pressure of overfilling the spindles. Right or wrong, I figured this procedure might add to the possibility of moisture and debris contamination of the bearings, especially if drilling weep holes in the spindle to avoid over pressurizing.
So back to thinking not to add grease until I read that keeping grease in the spindle keeps moisture out, avoiding any rusting of the shaft and spacer. Also, reading that the intent of adding grease to the spindle is to keep the friction down thus lowering the operating temperature.
Decision made right! Not so fast. I was under the impression that my new John Deere S130 no doubtably had zerks on the spindles, right? WRONG, hadn’t noticed before now, but NO, there are no blade spindle zerks on my 2021 S130. (See updated reply)
Guess you don’t have to worry about grease. Thanks for watching hope you have a good summer.
Yes, you too. I enjoy watching your videos.
Updated reply
Saw yet another video where someone had to replace an old John Deere spindle. The new spindle has the grease zerk on the top of the shaft (I assume there is a small hole in the shaft inside the spindle to allow the grease to flow into the spindle). Lo and behold, that’s where the zerks are located on my S130. Would’ve been helpful for my manual to show this zerk location, but it describes the zerk location on the side of the spindle.
The manual says to grease the spindles every 25 hours with one or two shots of grease. So I have settled on keeping it lubricated per the manual.
Also very interesting, the latest video that I watched also showed the old John Deere spindle that was being replaced having the bottom bearing without a seal on the top. The top bearing had both sides sealed. Looks like even the manufacturers struggle with what is the best method of extending spindle bearing life (or is it all about the bottom line - cost).
My mower is 11 years old, never had trouble, don't send me fishing for trouble !
I think i would leave it alone, than thanks for watching
You know the old saying: 'If it aint broke find something else to make a UA-cam video about.'
Just fixed my jd 165x thanks for the help.
3 beers for you..😁😁😁
Glad it helped thanks for commenting
So the spindles are set up the same as a motorbike wheel hub. Love understanding how things work :)
Thanks for watching
Good video. I just took the spindles out of my dad’s old Saber JD today because I was getting a little vibration. My dad brought this new in 98 or 99. The spindles had a little movement but I think are salvageable has the original belt and original deck pulleys and still all tight. Any way I ordered all new to replace them and will keep these as a spare. Do you have any information on where I can find replacement bearings for the original spindles? Thanks for any information.
Sorry I do not, leave a comment if you find a good place to buy.
The zerk is problematical. To get fresh grease into the bearings you have to expel the old grease from the bearing, it has to exit by popping the other seal. Then, you have a hidden seal that needs to be reseated. Whichever seal pops first gets all the grease! Now, you are depending on a gob of grease emerging from the seal to keep out any grit that gets stirred up during the dry season. That might work if you use a blower to clean up the deck, but a pressure washer will make things look spiffy and probably get water inside the bearing. By the end of the season, you would probably need a new spindle assembly when the bearing seizes and spins in the housing. The dealer's parts department will love you. Some spindles have factory drilled holes to allow sweating from humid weather a chance to dry out. If replacing the spindle, the hole should be in a direction that won't be filled by another blade, not in a direction that is convenient to grease. A better solution is a radiator clamp holding a patch of cloth over the hole. Water vapor can escape, but the gross stuff gets shut out. However, be careful if the housing is non-cylindrical.
Thanks for the well explained comment
I put zerks on my 12 year old sears 1500 yesterday, greased both spindles, don't care about upper bearings.Plenty of new grease came out on the lower bearing good for another 12 years- i'm out!
@@conductorjohnmthtrains2239 the seals don’t pop off anyways, he has no clue what really happens. That’s absolutely not a issue with a good assembly. Your on the right path. Thankfully some folks like you are smart enough not to figure this out. Obviously not all of them.
IDK, but it's rare that I find a manufacturer makes a mistake like that (unless it's a Chinese company) and would think that there is a good reason the bearings were sealed.
thanks for watching
Those sealed bearings last a long time.
At least they have on my John Deere decks.
I think the grease fittings are to keep the bearing spacer from freezing in place.
Thanks for commenting and watching my video
thats right pat there not for the bearing its to keep moisture away your dead right mate
Correct. Keeps the shaft from freezing to the spacer. What a waste to have to fill the spindle cavity with grease just to get a thin film between the spacer and shaft. And from the ones I have disassembled, the shafts were dry anyway. The grease never made it to the tiny gap between the shaft and spacer. Now I just clean both up really well, and apply either anti-seize or brake caliper grease. Both have proved to do well. Cheers.
You could use Timken sealed replacement bearings and not worry about greasing them. That's my plan once mine wear out because I know I'm not going to think about greasing the zerks every year. Good video. Thanks.
replacement bearing are really not to much, I am going to do the same thing.
Without a pressure relief hole somewhere in the spindle, at some point while pumping grease in something's going to have to give due to hydraulic pressure. If I had to guess it would probably be the seal that was left in. Once that spindle is full of grease, one more pump of the grease gun is going to create its own vent somewhere.
i have seen where guys will drill a small relief hole in the spindle
I highly doubt that spindle is sealed 100% to the environment. Unless it has a shaft seal, which it doesn't, air can escape around the shaft.
I bought a used mower last year to swap the deck into mine that had rusted out from underneath. Someone had already greased it to the point that grease was coming out at the top of the spindle near the pulley and slinging grease on the deck.
If the grease has nowhere to go, it simply backs up and out of the zerk
I've been cleaning and putting new grease in " sealed" bearing forever. Sealed in bearings like these is just a dirt/debris cover. It is by no means permanently sealed. You can silicon the seals edges and this does extend the bearing life usually.
Thanks for watching
Sealed bearings are designed to not need further lubrication, you can buy bearings with a seal on one side only. But when you use bearings with a seal missing you have to fill the whole void with grease; otherwise the top bearing won't get enough lubrication, but if you put too much grease in you'll blow an outer seal off and then the bearing will become contaminated and wear out quickly. Basically these bearings are so cheap leave them sealed and if they fail it takes 20 minutes to replace them as you've just shown. I think the grease nipple is a holdover from when they had bronze plain bearings, ask the manufacturer.
thank you for the info, thanks for watching
Thank you for making this video.
As a owner of a 1025R, thats a sub-compact John Deere tractor, plus a LA135, a 42” riding John Deere mower from about 12 years ago, I’d like to add my two cents on the reason the spindle bearings are sealed.
First, I do not disagree with Steve’s saloon opinion that removing the seal then regularly greasing the spindles will prolong the bearing life. Where I take issue is Steve skipping the concept of equipment lifespan.
Just giving a few examples, these little riding lawnmowers have unserviceable hydrostatic transmissions. If you have a flat lawn, they may last 900 to 1,100 hours. If you have a ditch or other minor hills, cut that lifespans in half. If you have a hilly lot, cut it in half again. Either way, by the time the hydro goes, normally other parts are near end of life such as the steering mechanism, cast iron insert of the motor, and more.
By no means am I suggesting to not maintain your equipment. With proper care, a typical homeowner cutting a 1/2 acre level lot once a week for half a year can expect a 15 year life out of these things when properly maintained. As with any bell shaped curve, a few lucky owners will get far more, and a few far less, but 15 years or 900 - 1,100 hours is about all you can expect before so many parts are worn that having the machine repaired is not cost justifiable.
Now, lets say you follow’s Steve suggestion, disassemble, remove seal, repack, reassemble and regularly grease with quality bearing grease. At some point you will be discarding a worn out riding lawnmower with pristine bearings. What sense does that make?
As it comes to the spindle grease zerk, grease it to keep water out as you perform your routine 50 hour or once a year service, whichever comes first.
Anyways, thats my opinion.
By they way, I mow with the 1025R tractor and 60 inch John Deere MMM belly mower and my wife uses the LA135 because she is not comfortable driving the tractor. She has driven it some, but she prefers to drive the smaller riding lawnmower. That’s why we have both. I am considering having us upgrade the John Deere LA135 to a John Deere S240-42 which has a more robust, serviceable K46DP hydrostatic transmission. With proper use and maintenance, the John Deere S240-42 riding lawnmower with its more robust and serviceable K46DP hydrostatic transmission can withstand small hills and increase its life expectancy to a median age between 1,400- 1,600 hours. The two riding lawnmower, the LA135 and S240-42, are close to the same size but built to different price points.
Thanks for the nice well explained comment makes sense. Hope you have a great summer
@@DIYJIM since commenting, I checked out a few of your other videos. Nice job. Best wishes with your UA-cam content creation success.
@@DougAlesUSA thank you very much, I am enjoying making videos and getting lots of comments from people thanking me for helping them.
@@DIYJIM have you found and watched some videos from UA-cam content creator Tractor Time with Tim? At the core, his channels focus is the John Deere 1025R, but he does branch out. Now, this is his full time job. He gets the UA-cam revenue plus does projects for fees, I assume for fee but technically I do not know if he charges his customers, plus he sometimes has viewer discount codes for purchasing the item he is using in his videos. I assume when viewers use his code he gets some sort of revenue from the vendor, but again, I do not know that for sure. I assume some of these vendors give him the product he is reviewing.
@@DougAlesUSA I don’t think I have seen tractor time with Tim I’ll have to check it out
For those that don't get alot of exposure to the inside of spindles I will tell you that most of the newer ones I see are sealed bearings even if it has a zerk fitting on it, Trouble is for those that actually use a grease gun they over do it, if the spindle does not have a pop off relief then what happens is they blow the bearing seals right out of the bearing due to over pressureization, at that point the bearing is basically dead as everything in the world can get into it, The one or 2 commercial brands that tried actual greased bearings found they had more problems and complaints with them , By using sealed bearing with a pressure relief on the spindle everybody is happy, for those that don't grease they still get "normal" wear on thiers and the guy with a compulsive grease gun addiction he can pump grease in them all he wants and thinks he is doing good. The only good that any grease does on these is make it a little easier to get things apart should they need to be repaired.
Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching
does having spindle full of grease keep temperature down to decrease wear to lower bearing?
John Deere isn't the only company that made this mistake. I just changed the center spindle on my 7117 Simplicity with the very same issues. An oldie but still going strong!
thanks for the comment
A good video on how to take apart your mower. Opening the bearing is good. Don't damage the plastic seal. It can be placed back once you add a little good grease to the bearing. I used to use a needle and a vaccination device to add grease to the bearing without removing the seal. It worked ok but you couldn't tell how much grease you were adding to the bearing. Then I saw the video on how to remove the seal, grease the bearing, reinstall the seal and put it all back together. Do not over grease the bearing.
thanks for the info
I'm glad I saw this video ty,I will be doing the same on my John deere
Glad I could help
I went to Detroit ball bearing school. In the 80s . Sealed bearings have grease from the factory. and don't need to be greased. The shield keeps the grease in and the dirt away from the bearings. Unsealed bearings have to be greased to flush out the dirt and lubricate them. Sealed bearings are already greased and sealed. God bless you jesus is coming soon. Judgement is here. Seek the lord daily 👉♥️♥️👑👑👍
Thank you God bless Jesus is awesome
Its a good idea to take the bearings off and repack them every 2 years or so if you live in a hot climate. I've had bearing go out because of NOT doing this, yes, I've learned the hard way.
My hometown, and I'm still in the area now
Mark Allison 88- Actually unsealed bearings were meant to be used in an oil bath application, like inside a transmission , small engines, some oil filled pumps, etc. You cant rely on pumping fresh grease into an open bearing to flush out foreign debris. Just ont tiny piece of debris will quickly wear out the bearing rollers/race. But I agree with your first statement. Sealed bearings don't need to have grease added. But we have all done it :-(
Never read all comments but will add this... While shaft and blade out its a good time to do blade maint/sharpen /work bolts that hold blade on .I grease mine some say lock tite ..your choice...
I have never used loctite just try to use torque wrench and tighten to the torque setting that is normally in the manual
After 20 yrs my sealed bearings are still good; same amount of work if ever need replacing. Very good video, however
Ed c
Thank you for the nice comment
Ok
Another person occasionally uses my computer and her name and initial shows up. Sorry. I've read over a hundred of these helpful postings and have to admit I learned several things. And I like it that DIY JIM has admitted he also has been impressed by the postings. Number one: Do not wash a deck with water. Blow the grass off. #2: Bearing technology has changed in my 80 years. I hand packed bearings for years. Now that is an issue if you "fill 'er up with grease!" 60 years ago I was shown grease which could be heated with a torch and still be 'greasy" while red hot. Is that the Lucas Red? I think lithium. I don't know but I like the idea! Conclusion: Don't clean a deck with water....and SLIGHTLY repack sealed bearings and re-insltall them as sealed bearings. Now a problem. Just installed two new tower mandrels, new Oregon blades and a new 95" good belt on a Craftsman LT 2000 42 inch mower deck....correctly. Within five seconds before even mowing it sounded like the right mandrel had ball-bearing failure. Any ideas? I gave up so I could go eat..and have a couple bourbons before total frustration set in! Charlie Pierce
thanks for info and watching
Thank you so much, I may have to watch this several times to get the total concept, but that's ok. Appreciate
Your welcome, thank you for leaving a comment
Its true! A shorter version is to load 90 wt . The top has clean enviornment so rarely give problems. The outside seal catches hell no matter what you do. 90 has less rolling resistance an will keep the seal wet
Added bonus the centrifugal force is just enough to sling off the grit from the shaft rotation. Grease will not fling the grit and more often turns to a wax impregnated Grit going round and round between the shaft and the seal lip
Thanks for watching
Like others have said, they are sealed bearings for a reason. Second, the very process you used for bearing removal compromised the integrity of the bearing. You NEVER hammer on the inner race! For installation of a NEW bearing, again, NEVER put pressure on the inner race. I always use a socket the is just a hair undersized for the outer race (ie loose fit in the spindle hole) and tap or press the bearing in. That is the ONLY correct way to install a new bearing. Oh, as far as putting the nut back on the spindle shaft to drive out the assembly, nice, but you should have protected the nut with a hunk of wood. Been doing this stuff for a lot of years and learned the right way to do this stuff. As far as greasing the bearings, they do come pre-greased, but I see nothing wrong with popping the seal off and adding some high quality bearing grease as long as you put the seal back on.
thank you for watching and for the great advice have a good summer
Thanks for the info and insight. Your details really help!
welcome
brilliantly explanatory video ! thank you
Thanks for watching
I pull the seals out of the formed pulleys and grease or use sharp needle adapter and stick needle along shaft and seal lip, then add grease while rotating.
Thanks for the tip, sounds like a good idea
you put grease is to keep moisture out and keep the shafts from rusting so you can get them apart when the bearing need replaceing got nothing to do with greaseing the bearings
Thanks for commenting and watching
I always regrease them before reinstalling and use marine grease. Water and moisture does not bother it.
Good idea, thanks for watching
You should do the same thing with the electric PTO clutch. The only difference is you need to put the seals back on the bearings. My PTO clutch is eight to nine years old now because I removed it’s two bearings an put some grease in them. PTO clutches and blade spindles are expensive.
thanks for the advice I might have to do that
Way better off with the manual engage pto in the long run !!
This job is SO much easier if you remove the spindles from the cutting deck, of course removing the blades first. Replacing the sealed bearings is not a difficult job and I replace mine every 2 years, or so, when they feel dodgy - it is no more than a morning in the garage. Meanwhile, I can ignore greasing them. Replacements are cheap, even good quality ones. I have a 3 spindle, 48" deck.
Thanks for watching have a good summer
I’ve seen some spindles with sealed bearings and some without seals. The best way to check is to look up the part number for replacement bearings, rather than tearing down a spindle. Nothing at all wrong with sealed bearings, they are lubed from the factory and can last for decades.
Thank you for watching and the info
What are you taling about was real 30-40 years ago. Today, the spindles does not work more than one season. My original bearings for my tractor I had bought new, rolled in just one year, less than 60 hours. In the fall, all three were noisy, even respecting the maintenance schedule, with greasing every 25 hours. So after two lubrications, during the winter I disassembled the spindles and found the six bearings with the seals on both sides. The grease I pumped, did not reach the bearings, because of the seals. After thoroughly cleaning the housings, I installed new bearings on which I removed the inside seals, with my hydraulic press. I carefully installed the bearings, tightened the two nuts on each spindle the both sides, (blades as well as the sides of the pulleys) at 65lb / ft to John Deere's specifications, and the following summer despite the recommended lubrication every 25 hours, the following fall I had to change the bearings again which were still noisy. So ... either the bearings were not chosen well by the manufacturer, or the bearings are of very poor quality, and again it is possible that the grease is no longer of the same quality as there were 30- 40 years ago. So, no spindle would run decades on the John Deere lawn mower.
@@Adriva01 sounds like a better quality bearing is needed...
Try some well known brands.
@@candohunter3176 so what are the better well known brands?
@@Adriva01 Not sure what caused your problem but I had a 48" JD deck that has mowed about 4 acres a week April through October for 15 years with the original spindles and idler pulleys, never touched them. The deck rotted out requiring replacement but that is another story. The spindles were good enough to reuse but I opted for new as I would have had to install them into the new deck and wanted to start fresh.
Perhaps you damaged the bearings by using a press to remove the seals, bearings such as these are not designed for axial loading. Others that I have known to remove said seals gently used a hooked pick to pop the seals out and while I personally disagree with this practice, they have all experienced good results. And we live in corn country where every piece of equipment is green,. Heck, used to be if you bought a new tractor (a real one) they would give you a new mower. Buy a combine and get a Gator!
The seals keep the water out. Filling the spindle with grease can push the seals off the bearings. Spend your time keeping the blades razor sharp.
Razor sharp got it, thanks for watching hope you are having a good summer
The problem with this set up, as I see it, is that even with the covers off the bearings, the bottom bearing is always going to have the most grease, unless you keep the spindle constantly full. The grease is always going to fall to the bottom, which will leave the top one, lacking lubrication at some poiint.
Agree thanks for watching
It’s not a problem I promise you