All you have done is add further contaminates to an already dirty worn out bearing , also you should remove seals from the inside not the outside of the seal , and try cleaning the bearing before you remove the seals , wash the grease out before you add more grease , you can over pack bearings with grease , and use clean grease .
@@adrian.adrianl6401 Why do you say it’s already dirty, and this is all wrong? It’s been sealed. Depending on the application the video process could be fine, after all if you really want “right” then you replace the bearing.
This is the best tutorial I have ever watched on youtube. Video is clear, high definition, focused the whole time. Voice is loud, clear, moderate speed with easy to understand accent. Varies types/sizes of bearing is demonstrated. Nice work!
I'm an old master aircraft/heavy machinery mechanic. Always take both seals off and clean then inspect them, if the bearings are good make sure the old grease is all cleaned out. There is a thing called "balling" which is where two greases are not compatible and cause the grease to react and dry out making little non lubricating balls and the bearings will fail. we had some mishaps with F-16's having this problem when the wrong grease was used.
Yes! Auto mechanic here, never put new grease with old, always wash out old grease and inspect. I've also seen dissimilar greases turn to liquid and run out, losing all lubricity.
@@666dynomax I've seen other people use brake cleaner and or WD-40. One thing I did read was never to use wd-40 to stop bearing squeal (unless as a diagnostic prior to repair/replacement) This is because wd-40 breaks grease down. I saw a guy spraying it on bearings and it literally dissolves. Spin. Rinse with more wd-40. Spin. Rinse. I think he then sprayed brake cleaner on it to remove the wd-40....before repacking with grease. If you already got your project done let me know what worked for you as I'm in a similar boat! Hope I helped some!
My God, how can supposedly grown men watch a video about greasing small engine equipment bearings and within a few posts start calling each other names and trade insults? It seems impossible to post any how-to video on youtube without hot-headed know-it-all keyboard experts chiming in to tell the poster how they are wrong and demonstrate to everyone how smart they are. Most seem to have never posted an actual video themselves, they just arm-chair critique others' videos. So all you self-proclaimed authorities on bearings- calm down. It is a bearing on a piece of garden equipment, not an F-15. Thanks for the video, Dony. Ignore the self-important twits in the comment section. We adults appreciate your efforts.
That was an awesome tip. I have never heard of anyone doing this. After talking with several friends who are mechanics, they all assumed that I knew to do this. It is nice that people believe that I am sharper than I actually am.
I've been doing this since the early '70s. The metal shielded ones get soaked overnight in solvent, blown out with compressed air, heated in a pan of proper lube, then the pan / lube/ bearing are cooled. Works great for hard to get parts, especially for obsolete equipment.
Hi Don, love your channel. I re-grease snowmobile bearings used in the rear suspension wheels. They take a lot of abuse. I remove the bearings from the wheels with a press after removing the snap ring retainers. I remove both seals using a precision screwdriver. Bearings are cleaned in a jar with mineral spirits, followed with a blow gun with the bearing in a clean rag. Then, I spin the bearing to see if it has any resistance and check for pitting. If all is good, I use moly lithium grease and reinstall everything. This really extended the life for these extreme use bearings.
I have to say I watched your video 2 -3 years ago and ever since I have checked every sealed bearing I’ve come across. I will tell you about 1/3 of new bearings I’ve purchased have had either no grease or very little. I would strongly suggest everyone watching this video to check your bearing, especially if they are critical !!! Like motorcycle wheel bearings.
Yep, that's why I'm here! I was talking to a guy at work about my new scooter's bearings being a bit squeaky after riding it in the wet. He rides motorbikes and he said that he greases every single bearing he buys before installing it on his bike. He also said that the majority of new bearings don't have enough grease if any at all.
Don't do this. Half Fill a soup can with grease. Heat it to 150-200 degrees. ( hair dryer oven etc). Push the warm bearing under the grease. Let it slowly cool. Then it will suck in just enough without stretching or scoring the seal. Replace the bearing when possible.
Uh What is the purpose of doing this to a bearing that is sealed? What is Timken’s professional opinion about disturbing the perfectly good seal. I have never had a sealed spindle bearing fail, can’t say the same for unsealed spindle earrings.
There's a lot of people who would like to see your excellent video. If you could double the life of the spindle bearings, that would be a game changer.
In an emergency you can temporarily extend the life of a slightly noisy bearing by completely removing all the grease washing it in solvent and gently blowing out with compressed air and repack it with grease but leaving space for expansion inside the seals. You need to choose the correct type of grease for the application it’s working in as not all greases are created equal. Once the balls, rollers or race have become pitted replacement is the best option. Sometimes if you have an oddball sized bearing this is your only option until you can procure a replacement. From many years working as a machinery fleet mechanic I would sometimes have a sleeve machined up so I could fit a common over the counter bearing to replace hard to get oddball bearings that some machinery manufacturers thought would be a good idea to fit. 😀
i never knew you could get those covers off! thanks for the video. tip for packing the bearings, put a rubber glove on your left hand, some grese on the heel of your palm, press the bearing in it repeatedly with the other hand. this forces the grease through and works really fast.
Thank you Dony Boy. I was planning to replace the sealed bearing in the head of my angle grinder. I repacked it with new grease instead, and it runs nice and smooth now.
That is one of the things I learned while in the Air Force since we had trailers which had to be greased on a regular basis to keep them from breaking down when we needed them most. Thanks for the tip, and I hope you are having a nice week.
Thank you. This video saved me 40euros. I was replacing wheel bearings yesterday and got sand in new bearings and i had to wash all the grease out to get the sand out of there. Now i know how to re-grease them.
Like the video. it's amazing all these people have so much negative to say. For cryin out loud it's about greasing a bearing, it's not like he's greasing an aircraft carrier.
I watched this video years ago. Last week I had a chance to use the technique I learned from this channel. My idler and tensioner bearings in my old GMC were making noise. I repaired them with ease and now they will last many more years. Thanks donyboy
For small high speed bearings like alternator bearings or idler pulley bearings, that see sub freeing temperatures, I use a thinner lightweight grease. Heavy grease will spin the bearing centers sometimes if you don't use light enough grease or too much grease. too much grease causes a bearing to run much hotter.
I am impressed I have seen many of this videos and no one 1st removes the old grease and wash the bearing with kerosene or oil or degreasant, nope, straight ahead adding grease to the old one.... Amazing
That's the way we were taught in auto shop back in the day. One reason was back then some greases had a different base make up like soap based for example, and if two different greases with a different base were mixed it could liquefy after awhile. I don't think that is the case as much these days but I am still more comfortable not mixing greases especially in something like a wheel bearing. Also, who wants to mix good clean grease with old dirty and potentially hardened grease? Not me, that's not how we were taught by our shop teacher. He believed, and so do I, in cleanliness especially when it comes to machined surfaces and tight tolerance parts, like engines and bearings!
electronicsNmore - ...and followed by a spray of WD40 and a blast of compressed air to remove the last of the crud. People forget that grease (actually, most lubricant) is designed to “absorb” a certain amount of contaminants, so it doesn’t need to be perfectly clean. Dirty lubricant=lubricant that’s done its job.
Great vid thanks. Just a few points, after prying the seals out there is usually bending, so before reinstalling check you flatten the seal out perfectly. I always use a good quality "water-proof" grease as this type of grease doesn`t get washed-out so easily. Don`t buy cheap bearings where ill fitting seals don`t actually keep dirt & water out, the main cause of bearing failure. Finally as this vid points out don`t over grease the bearing. I always take off both seals squeeze the grease but leave a finger groove in the grease so as not to put pressure on the seal.
Good idea to clean the bearing from old grease with benzine . If you reach the point where you need to do this the old grease is usually hard and makes the bearing rough and new grease wont solve the problem. So clean it out first and blow it out with air and the bearing usually becomes smooth and then you insert the fresh grease.
DonnyBoy, I need my mini bike tomorrow and didn't know how to remove the bearing seals. For the information of US residents, Harbor Freight has a set of picks that's often on sale for around a dollar. Mine worked fine. Thank you for the video
I've bought quality bearings that literally had a pin head of grease from the factory, so before installing I will always grease a sealed bearing. It's easier being happy ! Thanks Donny, good Vid !
Thank you sir you saved the day! The top spindle bearing is the same bearing in my Husqvarna, so I used an old spindle bearing. It only had a seal on one side though, so I pulled the seal off the idler bearing and used it on the spindle bearing.
If your spindle has a zerk fitting, then the bearings should only have one seal so the open sides are facing the inside of the spindle. That way when you grease the spindle the grease can actually get to the bearings.
On our farm machinery, we drill a tiny hole in the metal sealed bearings and then use an injector needle. A dab of caulking then seals the small hole. The easy to reach bearings just get replaced, but some take hours of disassembly to get off, so this is were the injector needle comes in handy.
Delmar: several great ideas together! I´ll add that not everyone realizes that for the caulk/silicone to adhere, the spot must be W E L L dgreased; Thank you
I've done the same many times with the metal seals, they're usually in a area that is protected anyway. I've also added oil with a syringe thru a very small hole. I know this will set off a wild debate about oil and grease not mixing, but the small amount of original grease is usually dried out anyway. I've had great luck.
Nice I thought I was going to have to dig out my dad's needle that's how he done it but as you say under pressure or speed it spin's out. Thanks Donny boy for your service.
A feeler gauge works awesome for removing the seals without damaging the sealing edge. Over packing the bearing could lead to failure depending on usage. Nice vid.
Metal covers -- that's what's installed on my new spindles for Murray 11ic/36. So you've answered my question!! I won't bother to try to open them let alone knock them out of the spindle or "jackshaft housing asdembly" as Murray calls it. So the zerk fitting is I oh going togrease the hollow between the assembly and spacer that the jackshaft passes through to prevent condensation moisture presumably. So, is there a need to drill a tiny seep/weep hole to prevent grease build-up that could force the bearings to burst?? Thanks a lot Dony, I might just be able to get on with installing the 'spindle' and drill a weep hole in the future. Big THANK YOU.
Thank you, I tried this method with my idler pully on my engine. I took off the covers,cleaned it out then regreased it. The only thing was it didn't get rid of the sound (I'm guessing it is already damaged) so I'm going to changing it, but I'm glad to know that I have experience doing this now
Excellent video.... I just learned a few things from this video..... when and where the different types of bearings go, and for what reason.... I learned that I can remove the seal and tool needed for romoval, in order to grease it, I also that I could do this in any situation , no matter the application it is being used for at that particular time, same process carries across the entire field of bearings and races... So 👍👍...
Wow, the needle injector for ball joints... that is GENIUS.... I've only ever regreased a ball joint once or twice because I would take the ball joint off the car, take it into my work shed, clean the grease out, then put the new in and replace the boot.... this doesn't risk contamination and it's so so much faster than that. P.S. I tried adding grease while it was still attached to the car, but since I work in my front yard in Florida there's grass, dirt, and especially SAND that blows up all the time. Just one quick gust of wind and sand is in everything. It's really difficult to keep a clean environment when if you accidentally touch the ground and then what you're working on again particles of sand will be in it :(
I've added this to my yearly maintenance on my mower deck pulleys. Wish I knew where to get replacement covers as my bearings probably won't ever wear out now.
I repacked a couple of idler pulleys on my mower deck. They run smoother now. I had already replaced one, and repacked that one to replace the other one. Now I have a spare that is repacked and ready to go if needed.
Thanks for you videos. Ive heard that white lithium grease is harmful for us when it comes in direct contact so to never use my fingers but a piece of scrap paper or a clean thing I am not planning on keeping.
when i pick the seal. i do it from the inside edge so not to damage the outer edge which might be the cause of future leak of the grease due to centrifugal force.
Thank you for this. I have 2 wheels that seized up after I rode through a flood, (didn't realise they got wet :-(. Managed to free them up with heat and light oil, followed by thicker oil, but grease would be far better! I shall give this a go!
That cover is crazy easy to remove. I always thought a sealed bearing meant it is waterproof but the one you showed would leak like a sieve. Thanks for the tips.
Nah mate. You get different types of seals. There is light contact rubber seal which i wouldn't want to hit with a high pressure cleaner ever. You can get seals that are full contact rubber seal that can handle being washed down, just don't go blasting the bearings for long as you will damage the seal.. You can get triple lip seals etc. The trade off is more friction, hence more heat. You can look up how deep groove ball bearings are made and see how much grease to relube them with, or even better a bearing catalogue will tell you. Over lubrication will lead to premature failure. But as you saw one of those bearings had zero grease. Clean out the old grease , relube with injector nozzle and replace seals. This video had some great info. Cheers for posting.
It's best to clean the bearing out first to remove any contaminants and to remove the old grease which may not be compatible with the new grease. You also want to push the grease into the bearing, not just wipe it across the top like you did.
Hello! Thank you for this excellent video. A small question, I have the same NTN bearings, me CS205LU, that I have to do, and I wonder why I have to use this motomaster white grease or would I be better off using my Prolab GS1000 synthetic bearing grease . I would like to be sure that I put the right grease and that it will go with the one already in the bearing. Sorry, I don't understand everything in English.
I learned something new. My 2009 Honda HRX217 has a bad clutch bearing....I'm getting a new one. But for son's lightly used 2012 HRR 216 mower I'll check the clutch bearing for wear....if it's ok I'll clean and repack with fresh grease. Thanks!
Great video! I'm currently restoring an old Makita mitre saw which has a a right angle gear box. I was recommended to use Lucas Xtra Heavy Polyurea grease by a friend. However I know polyurea grease is not compatible with lithium grease which I believe Makita uses from factory. I cleaned out all the yellow lithium grease in an effort to make sure all the new grease was the polyurea. However, then I realized that the sealed bearings inside the gear box also have grease which may react with the polyurea? Is that the case, and will some of the polyurea seep into the gears and mess them up? Would appreciate your thoughts.
I even check new bearings when replacing them in blade spindles and always remove a Electric PTO clutch on a lawn mower and add grease if necessary. The PTO bearings have been very low content of grease when new. I have a John Deere L130 mower that I greased the PTO clutch that will be ten years old this summer and is still working very well. A little maintenance on these bearings will save you lots of money and it is simple to do. 👍🏻
Will the seal pop off if you reseal on old bearing? I did this method just recently. Bearings were dry and dirty. So I cleaned it and inspected the ball bearings itself and it did not show any signs of scars. So I repacked it and put the seal back. Gonna start the boat tomorrow and test it out.
I have worked on mechanical stuff for 35 to 40 years and never knew could remove that seals on a sealed bearing. I had used the needle but it puts a hole in your seal and grease finds it's way out and in no time your back to replacing the bearing. Thanks for showing us this video.
If bearings from table fan that i used it daily use how often should i need to apply grease on them? New table fan model not used sleeve bearings anymore they use small ball bearings on front and back motor inner casing.
Hey, cool stuff! Obviously a tradeoff/decision to make between replacing a bearing and just re-greasing it like this, but for things that aren't critical bearings (failure isn't going to destroy stuff) this could make a lot of stuff more salvageable!
Just serviced a very squeeky tensioner pulley yesterday. My first try at it. And my Idler Pulley bearing, since I had the drive belt off. Made sure I cleaned the heck out of them (both sides) with brake cleaner first. Until the bearings looked pristine. Lots of dry desert dust from SoCal coast. Then packed them good with red bearing grease. Re installed. The tensioner pulley still squeeks (1/10) as bad, maybe because it had a tiny 1/2 mm of side to side play. And because it was a cheap bearing on an AutoZone Duralast pulley from 15 - 20 years ago. Whereas the idler pulley was the original OEM part with an all metal bearing casing (good bearings like you had here) instead the cheaper plastic casing for the balls like in the tensioner pulley. Drove around a good 5 miles already - still some squeek - may have to order a new bearing for that. What's a good metal only bearing for a tensioner pulley? Who can I order it from with free shipping? Do I need to get #'s off casing ring? How do they measure it, outer diameter × hole diameter × width? What do the serial numbers on the side of the rings stand for?
What is the difference in the berring seal? Do some types of seals that permit the old grease to escape. My mower that I am planning a berring refit is a 2009 Deere 7H17 commercial 48" comercial. The mower has around 10,000 hours and my deck is tight but very loud~120db so I am expecting the berrings are likely scored.
Hello From Mark In Kentucky, I was curious about what brand of grease that you normally use for mower spindles. I’m getting ready to change out some JD9296 spindle bearings on a older John Deere 38 inch mower deck that are starting to roar pretty loudly after a few years of use. For the most part, I am using the Lucas RedNTacky grease in which I also use to lubricate my mower deck spindles More than likely, I will probably load up my bearings like you did in your video before I install them in the spindle housings. Being that I am using the Lucas grease, I wonder if I should wash out the grease in the new bearings and load with the Lucas grease that I normally use when I grease the spindles to avoid any reaction between the different brands of grease. I have not seen anyone address this issue here on UA-cam. Thanks for your great video regarding the bearings.
Dony, too much grease can make a bearing over heat. Half that amount is still too much. Those are high speed bearings not car wheel bearings. A little dab now and again will do as long as the seal is still good.
Thanks Tractor. Been in the SKF bearing business for years. All I hear is this bearing failed after one month but I grease it every day. Stop greasing it so much! A sealed bearing is sealed for the life of the bearing.
@@kiyotaka269 Grease expands when it gets hot so you shouldn’t completely fill the bearing otherwise it will run too hot and force liquid grease out the seal lip. The same filling an axle hub you should not fill completely to allow for expansion especially if the brake drum/ rotor is generating lots of heat into it.
There are further suggestions that should have been made know!( 1 ) There are different grades of grease ( SHOWN ) however the correct process is to use "for instance brake parts cleaner" to flush out all the old grease.( 2 ) NOTE: Remove BOTH sides seals then LIGHTLY blow compressed air thru to remove the residue. DO NOT SPIN THE BEARING WITH COMPRESSED AIR!NOTE: In high temp bearings the grease expands when under heat so don't pack more grease than needed.( 3 ) Once this has been completed pack the grease from both sides to force it into the inner channel groove then spin the bearing by hand to ensure the grease has been packed.( 4 ) REPEAT packing the bearing then remove excessive grease.( 5 ) Reinstall the side seals! Following this method will ensure the grease is fresh & there is no Old Residue of the previous grease. As twosence fromCleveland stated- QUOTE: Petroleum lubes generally mix, but the additive package for speed range, temperature (hot or cold), and various chemical repellent properties can "cake" when mixed. There is also silicone grease which won't mix with anything (rare though). This is why it is necessary to remove the OLD grease.KUDOS for a good video donyboy73
You would be better off to make your own video. Your suggestions sound valid but I could barely follow along. The grammar and punctuation leaves me wondering about certain steps.
Great video. Your work methods give my nervous system the jitters. You are applying firm pressure with a sharp pointed tool or a very sharp cutting tool and one of your non-replaceable hands is directly beneath your target object. One slip of your penetrating tool past the small bearing surface, and your hand is the next target. Please, rest the target bearing on a flat surface before applying the penetrating tools. Keep your non-replaceable fingers out of the line of fire, so to speak. In my many years of working on messy and large equipment I have not lost nor seriously damaged my body parts because I remind myself that my human body is the softest material involved in my manual labors. Machinery does not forgive mistakes or "opps". By the way... Cover that open sore on your right hand with medicinal "paper" tape (from drugstore) for several days. That temp covering will help your body cover over the open wound for healing. Dirt particles, oils, grease, etc, can get into an unprotected raw sore and interfere with the delicate healing fluids. The best tape has small breathing holes. This is good because the sore cannot be keep air tight and water logged for too long a time. I usually use handy paper tape used for sealing boxes. After a couple days normal hand washings will loosen it enough to slide off.
I used to finish grind bearings for a living but didn't work in assembly. The largest bearing I ever worked on was 13 feet in diameter, it took several shifts to grind it to size. Most of what I worked on was 4 to 10 foot diameter. As commentators have suggested (small) bearings can be cheap to replace but I've worked ones that cost the customer over $200,000.
On a Automotive Radiator Fan Bracket there is a pulley with a pressed in sealed bearing, probably by Nachi or something like that. Also there is the idler pulley bearing, and the AC Clutch also has a sealed nachi bearing (Lexus ls400/ Denso compressor) Can I use Redline synthetic CV-2 grease, NLGI Grade #2 service GC-LB and application range -100F to 500F. I was about to do my 4Runner CV Joints with this stuff. I thought maybe I could use brake cleaner spray on these sealed bearings (engine fan pulley, fan bracket pulley bearing..all those are sealed. Would BrakeC damage the seals? Any thoughts on this upcoming task I need to do?
I have gone through a Koyo industrial bearing class. We use a majority of the Koyo bearing on the equipment on the machinery at work. If the right type of sealed bearings are used in the correct applications. They claim they are sealed for the life of the bearing. But, we also pull the seals completely out of some bearings that are installed in a grease block
The sealed bearings usually found in mower deck spindles usually fail due to lack of proper lubrication. The spindle housings may have zerk fittings and you might THINK the bearings are receiving grease when you pump grease into them, but the truth is, they're sealed, which prevents any new grease from reaching the bearings. The fix for this is to disassemble the spindles and remove the seals from one side of each of the bearings, then reassemble them with the open side of each bearing facing the middle of the spindle shaft. You should also drill a (one) SMALL weep hole in each spindle housing prior to reassembly. Make sure that after drilling, you carefully clean any metal from the spindle housing before reassembly. Doing this will greatly reduce the incidence of spindle bearing failure... 😀
Do you really think that every engineer that has designed a mowing deck spindle was adding a grease zerk just to trick everyone if they add a grease fitting then we can ultimately trick all whole grease the spindles into thinking they are getting an amazing machine they can maintain and it will last forever but little do they know we have really screwed the end user by sneaking a couple of extra inner seals on both bearings so we can destroy there foolish lawnmower war on grass agenda and force them into buying more bearings and spindles??? Since it’s obvious you actually think this way and are very dumb how about you learn about bearings and seals and heat and why they use inner seals on the bearings and actually what the name of that seal is and how it works captain obvious!! Mowing deck spindles are not like a auto frontend spindle captain jackass they have a different seal captain jack nuts so how about you do some research before spreading false info to everyone or are you the one that started that world wide lie and have ppl pulling those seals out while ur skinning it back and scobbing ur mallet headed mushroom tip while ur poppa cleans it squeaky clean doing the reverse cowgirl on it at a medium pace so you don’t blow ur seal to fast!
If you remove the blade and pulley and use Red grease, after 50+ pumps you will see that grease has penetrated the inner seals and comes out the outer seals.
I want to do this on our zero turn but put a grease zert in. It has non-greasable spindels in it and I drilled and tapped a hole to put in a grease zert. My question is how do I let the excess grease out so it doesn't burst the seals? Drill a small hole, one way valve?
Drill a really small hole about 1/16" as far as possible from the zerk don't forget to clean out all the metal chips from drilling or you could make it worse.
be careful with the correct viscosity and amount of grease in high speed (like Alternator) bearings, or you'll spin the bearing in it's housing or on the shaft.
Yes as one comment about the one is you use the edge of a ten or twelve thousand feeler gauge The seat off without damaging use high quality I used to use teflon on some of my bearings make sure you wash your mouth out with dry air and some cleaning fluid.
I AM REPLACING MY WHEEL BEARING THO, I ORDERED A NEW CONTAINER OF HI-TEMP GREASE & I AM WAITING FOR IT TO ARRIVE. SHOULD I PRY THE SEAL OPEN & GREASE IT INTERNALLY LIKE YOU DID IN YOUR VIDEO??? IT'S A FRONT WHEEL DRIVE, WHEEL BEARING FROM T.R.Q.(TRUSTED RELIABLE QUALITY) FOR A 99-04 FORD FOCUS?????
Good advice👍
All you have done is add further contaminates to an already dirty worn out bearing , also you should remove seals from the inside not the outside of the seal , and try cleaning the bearing before you remove the seals , wash the grease out before you add more grease , you can over pack bearings with grease , and use clean grease .
@@adrian.adrianl6401 - Agreed! Much care should be taken to not damage the seals. Our Canuck friend should mention this.
@@adrian.adrianl6401 Why do you say it’s already dirty, and this is all wrong? It’s been sealed. Depending on the application the video process could be fine, after all if you really want “right” then you replace the bearing.
make your own video@@adrian.adrianl6401 show us how it's done "right".. according to you
This is the best tutorial I have ever watched on youtube. Video is clear, high definition, focused the whole time. Voice is loud, clear, moderate speed with easy to understand accent. Varies types/sizes of bearing is demonstrated. Nice work!
I'm an old master aircraft/heavy machinery mechanic. Always take both seals off and clean then inspect them, if the bearings are good make sure the old grease is all cleaned out. There is a thing called "balling" which is where two greases are not compatible and cause the grease to react and dry out making little non lubricating balls and the bearings will fail. we had some mishaps with F-16's having this problem when the wrong grease was used.
Yikes... F 16s having failures does NOT sound good!
@@dough1968GMC
Built cheap to be lowest bidder to get contract.
Yes! Auto mechanic here, never put new grease with old, always wash out old grease and inspect. I've also seen dissimilar greases turn to liquid and run out, losing all lubricity.
@@woodstover what do you wash them with?
@@666dynomax I've seen other people use brake cleaner and or WD-40. One thing I did read was never to use wd-40 to stop bearing squeal (unless as a diagnostic prior to repair/replacement)
This is because wd-40 breaks grease down. I saw a guy spraying it on bearings and it literally dissolves. Spin. Rinse with more wd-40. Spin. Rinse.
I think he then sprayed brake cleaner on it to remove the wd-40....before repacking with grease.
If you already got your project done let me know what worked for you as I'm in a similar boat! Hope I helped some!
My God, how can supposedly grown men watch a video about greasing small engine equipment bearings and within a few posts start calling each other names and trade insults? It seems impossible to post any how-to video on youtube without hot-headed know-it-all keyboard experts chiming in to tell the poster how they are wrong and demonstrate to everyone how smart they are. Most seem to have never posted an actual video themselves, they just arm-chair critique others' videos.
So all you self-proclaimed authorities on bearings- calm down. It is a bearing on a piece of garden equipment, not an F-15.
Thanks for the video, Dony. Ignore the self-important twits in the comment section. We adults appreciate your efforts.
thanks Ian, lol
Stupid insults don't help. But those with very long practical experience can spot howlers like "filling/packing" a bearing.
STF UP! That´s the FUN of it!!
You've got a wicked pen there Mr Ian. You hit the bullseye.
That was an awesome tip. I have never heard of anyone doing this. After talking with several friends who are mechanics, they all assumed that I knew to do this. It is nice that people believe that I am sharper than I actually am.
I've been doing this since the early '70s.
The metal shielded ones get soaked overnight in solvent, blown out with compressed air, heated in a pan of proper lube, then the pan / lube/ bearing are cooled. Works great for hard to get parts, especially for obsolete equipment.
thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the tip..
Beer's on me 🍻🍻
would it be better to sit them upright so it gets only half filled not over filled?
Hi Don, love your channel. I re-grease snowmobile bearings used in the rear suspension wheels. They take a lot of abuse. I remove the bearings from the wheels with a press after removing the snap ring retainers. I remove both seals using a precision screwdriver. Bearings are cleaned in a jar with mineral spirits, followed with a blow gun with the bearing in a clean rag. Then, I spin the bearing to see if it has any resistance and check for pitting. If all is good, I use moly lithium grease and reinstall everything. This really extended the life for these extreme use bearings.
I have to say I watched your video 2 -3 years ago and ever since I have checked every sealed bearing I’ve come across. I will tell you about 1/3 of new bearings I’ve purchased have had either no grease or very little. I would strongly suggest everyone watching this video to check your bearing, especially if they are critical !!! Like motorcycle wheel bearings.
I agree!
That's good to know and check.
Yep, that's why I'm here! I was talking to a guy at work about my new scooter's bearings being a bit squeaky after riding it in the wet. He rides motorbikes and he said that he greases every single bearing he buys before installing it on his bike. He also said that the majority of new bearings don't have enough grease if any at all.
I have been a small engine mechanic for 20 years and found this very helpful. a lot of people are not aware that you can do this!
Don't do this.
Half Fill a soup can with grease.
Heat it to 150-200 degrees. ( hair dryer oven etc).
Push the warm bearing under the grease.
Let it slowly cool.
Then it will suck in just enough without stretching or scoring the seal.
Replace the bearing when possible.
There’s a reason for that…..because your not suppose to !!
I think i should take my small engine to a real mechanic
@@steveiv9250 Yes, just because you CAN do it doesn't mean you SHOULD do it.
Uh What is the purpose of doing this to a bearing that is sealed? What is Timken’s professional opinion about disturbing the perfectly good seal.
I have never had a sealed spindle bearing fail, can’t say the same for unsealed spindle earrings.
Who said I can't learn something today? I just learned how to grease a sealed bearing, thanks Donyboy.
There's a lot of people who would like to see your excellent video. If you could double the life of the spindle bearings, that would be a game changer.
In an emergency you can temporarily extend the life of a slightly noisy bearing by completely removing all the grease washing it in solvent and gently blowing out with compressed air and repack it with grease but leaving space for expansion inside the seals.
You need to choose the correct type of grease for the application it’s working in as not all greases are created equal. Once the balls, rollers or race have become pitted replacement is the best option. Sometimes if you have an oddball sized bearing this is your only option until you can procure a replacement.
From many years working as a machinery fleet mechanic I would sometimes have a sleeve machined up so I could fit a common over the counter bearing to replace hard to get oddball bearings that some machinery manufacturers thought would be a good idea to fit. 😀
i never knew you could get those covers off! thanks for the video. tip for packing the bearings, put a rubber glove on your left hand, some grese on the heel of your palm, press the bearing in it repeatedly with the other hand. this forces the grease through and works really fast.
Great advice - sometimes when your searching on UA-cam you come across a video that is quick and straight to the point - excellent 👍
Thank you Dony Boy. I was planning to replace the sealed bearing in the head of my angle grinder. I repacked it with new grease instead, and it runs nice and smooth now.
All these years and I never realized they were that easy. Thanks for the video. Good info.
That is one of the things I learned while in the Air Force since we had trailers which had to be greased on a regular basis to keep them from breaking down when we needed them most. Thanks for the tip, and I hope you are having a nice week.
Sidney,thank you sir for your service to your country. We as Americans need to stand up for your veterans. I myself am a veteran
AWESOME!! Have been working on engines forever and never thought of this!!
Great tip, used it on my mower deck idler pulleys. Way better than spending 30 bucks apiece for pulley/bearing combination.
Thank you. This video saved me 40euros.
I was replacing wheel bearings yesterday and got sand in new bearings and i had to wash all the grease out to get the sand out of there.
Now i know how to re-grease them.
I did this on the bearings inside the hubs of my bike they run smooth again and it saves me money so thank you!
Like the video. it's amazing all these people have so much negative to say. For cryin out loud it's about greasing a bearing, it's not like he's greasing an aircraft carrier.
There sure seems to be a lot of grease-sperts on here for sure.
Dale in Canada
Learned this trick 46 years ago....good to share. God Bless America
Daybook is from Canada.
Thanks. Very useful. I needed to reseat the cover on a bearing, because of my ineptitude when pressing the bearing in. This was most helpful
Fantastic demonstration and video. I'm hoping not to wreck a sealed bearing and this video was just what I needed.
I watched this video years ago. Last week I had a chance to use the technique I learned from this channel. My idler and tensioner bearings in my old GMC were making noise. I repaired them with ease and now they will last many more years. Thanks donyboy
For small high speed bearings like alternator bearings or idler pulley bearings, that see sub freeing temperatures, I use a thinner lightweight grease. Heavy grease will spin the bearing centers sometimes if you don't use light enough grease or too much grease. too much grease causes a bearing to run much hotter.
And do you know why?
@@tandemwings4733 too much grease creates friction, friction creates heat.
@@satibel
I'm very well aware of that.
I wasn't asking you, I was asking him.
i never knew that could be done, I learn something new on your channel all the time
I really enjoy your channel. PhD is small engine and machine mechanics.
I am impressed I have seen many of this videos and no one 1st removes the old grease and wash the bearing with kerosene or oil or degreasant, nope, straight ahead adding grease to the old one.... Amazing
Good video. I usually remove both sides, soak it in mineral spirits to remove the old grease, then pack it with new grease.
electronicsNmore 😉
That's the way we were taught in auto shop back in the day. One reason was back then some greases had a different base make up like soap based for example, and if two different greases with a different base were mixed it could liquefy after awhile. I don't think that is the case as much these days but I am still more comfortable not mixing greases especially in something like a wheel bearing. Also, who wants to mix good clean grease with old dirty and potentially hardened grease? Not me, that's not how we were taught by our shop teacher. He believed, and so do I, in cleanliness especially when it comes to machined surfaces and tight tolerance parts, like engines and bearings!
Theres no f.cking grease in there
electronicsNmore - ...and followed by a spray of WD40 and a blast of compressed air to remove the last of the crud. People forget that grease (actually, most lubricant) is designed to “absorb” a certain amount of contaminants, so it doesn’t need to be perfectly clean. Dirty lubricant=lubricant that’s done its job.
@@mullaway5746 have never used that in any bearing...should use a quality bearing grease
Great, good advice. I'll be checking all my rubber sealed bearings from now on.
Great vid thanks. Just a few points, after prying the seals out there is usually bending, so before reinstalling check you flatten the seal out perfectly. I always use a good quality "water-proof" grease as this type of grease doesn`t get washed-out so easily. Don`t buy cheap bearings where ill fitting seals don`t actually keep dirt & water out, the main cause of bearing failure. Finally as this vid points out don`t over grease the bearing. I always take off both seals squeeze the grease but leave a finger groove in the grease so as not to put pressure on the seal.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Great video. You saved us many headaches and money. Do not stop sharing your skills.
thanks Victor!
Good idea to clean the bearing from old grease with benzine . If you reach the point where you need to do this the old grease is usually hard and makes the bearing rough and new grease wont solve the problem. So clean it out first and blow it out with air and the bearing usually becomes smooth and then you insert the fresh grease.
That is a good video! I am a vacuum cleaner repairman and sometimes try this method. Sometimes it has worked and sometimes it hasn't.
DonnyBoy,
I need my mini bike tomorrow and didn't know how to remove the bearing seals. For the information of US residents, Harbor Freight has a set of picks that's often on sale for around a dollar. Mine worked fine.
Thank you for the video
I've bought quality bearings that literally had a pin head of grease from the factory, so before installing I will always grease a sealed bearing. It's easier being happy ! Thanks Donny, good Vid !
I cleaned and greased the bearings on both idler pulleys on my Jeep Grand Cherokee, using this method. Worked like a charm! Many thanks! Cheers🍻!
Thank you sir you saved the day! The top spindle bearing is the same bearing in my Husqvarna, so I used an old spindle bearing. It only had a seal on one side though, so I pulled the seal off the idler bearing and used it on the spindle bearing.
If your spindle has a zerk fitting, then the bearings should only have one seal so the open sides are facing the inside of the spindle. That way when you grease the spindle the grease can actually get to the bearings.
On our farm machinery, we drill a tiny hole in the metal sealed bearings and then use an injector needle. A dab of caulking then seals the small hole. The easy to reach bearings just get replaced, but some take hours of disassembly to get off, so this is were the injector needle comes in handy.
Delmar: several great ideas together! I´ll add that not everyone realizes that for the caulk/silicone to adhere, the spot must be W E L L dgreased;
Thank you
I've done the same many times with the metal seals, they're usually in a area that is protected anyway. I've also added oil with a syringe thru a very small hole. I know this will set off a wild debate about oil and grease not mixing, but the small amount of original grease is usually dried out anyway. I've had great luck.
@Nunya Business at the injector needle and grease gun shop
You made me feel better, I've been using these methods and more for years, never had a problem, thanks.
Nice I thought I was going to have to dig out my dad's needle that's how he done it but as you say under pressure or speed it spin's out.
Thanks Donny boy for your service.
A feeler gauge works awesome for removing the seals without damaging the sealing edge. Over packing the bearing could lead to failure depending on usage. Nice vid.
which gauge feeler gauge?
@@You1987Tuber As thin as will allow you to slip under the seal and enough stiffness to allow you to pop it out. Start thin and work way up.
Metal covers -- that's what's installed on my new spindles for Murray 11ic/36. So you've answered my question!! I won't bother to try to open them let alone knock them out of the spindle or "jackshaft housing asdembly" as Murray calls it. So the zerk fitting is I oh going togrease the hollow between the assembly and spacer that the jackshaft passes through to prevent condensation moisture presumably. So, is there a need to drill a tiny seep/weep hole to prevent grease build-up that could force the bearings to burst??
Thanks a lot Dony, I might just be able to get on with installing the 'spindle' and drill a weep hole in the future. Big THANK YOU.
This will work been doin it for 40years! Never had a problem.
Thank you, I tried this method with my idler pully on my engine. I took off the covers,cleaned it out then regreased it. The only thing was it didn't get rid of the sound (I'm guessing it is already damaged) so I'm going to changing it, but I'm glad to know that I have experience doing this now
Do it again clean old grease out with mineral spirits
@@bigred1247 next time I will
Excellent video.... I just learned a few things from this video..... when and where the different types of bearings go, and for what reason.... I learned that I can remove the seal and tool needed for romoval, in order to grease it, I also that I could do this in any situation , no matter the application it is being used for at that particular time, same process carries across the entire field of bearings and races... So 👍👍...
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow, the needle injector for ball joints... that is GENIUS.... I've only ever regreased a ball joint once or twice because I would take the ball joint off the car, take it into my work shed, clean the grease out, then put the new in and replace the boot.... this doesn't risk contamination and it's so so much faster than that.
P.S. I tried adding grease while it was still attached to the car, but since I work in my front yard in Florida there's grass, dirt, and especially SAND that blows up all the time. Just one quick gust of wind and sand is in everything. It's really difficult to keep a clean environment when if you accidentally touch the ground and then what you're working on again particles of sand will be in it :(
Thank You for this video. Just saved me almost $100 in bearings.
I've added this to my yearly maintenance on my mower deck pulleys. Wish I knew where to get replacement covers as my bearings probably won't ever wear out now.
Great advice, I use Lucas Oil red n tacky. Brake clean the cheap stuff out, dry, and apply
I repacked a couple of idler pulleys on my mower deck. They run smoother now.
I had already replaced one, and repacked that one to replace the other one. Now I have a spare that is repacked and ready to go if needed.
You have the best videos. Very good explanations and step-by-step methods. Great photography. You are the man.
thanks bob
Thanks for you videos. Ive heard that white lithium grease is harmful for us when it comes in direct contact so to never use my fingers but a piece of scrap paper or a clean thing I am not planning on keeping.
Dear Don: does greasing the sealed-bearings maybe...double/triple the time they are usable?
I never knew that you can regrease these bearings. Thanks
Hey Donny Love your work! You're my favourite Canadian.
Wow, thanks!
You saved me mucho denero thanks. Koyo tensioner and idler pulleys go for 35 dollars and up especially for lexus vehicles
I have done this many times from the 70s when I worked as a mechanic in the textile industry.
when i pick the seal. i do it from the inside edge so not to damage the outer edge which might be the cause of future leak of the grease due to centrifugal force.
Thank you for this. I have 2 wheels that seized up after I rode through a flood, (didn't realise they got wet :-(. Managed to free them up with heat and light oil, followed by thicker oil, but grease would be far better! I shall give this a go!
That cover is crazy easy to remove. I always thought a sealed bearing meant it is waterproof but the one you showed would leak like a sieve. Thanks for the tips.
Just goes to show how people are willing to part with so much money when that term "sealed" is used.
They do leak, look inside a lawnmower wheel bearing , that has been jet washed down frequently and the grease is black and filthy.
Nah mate. You get different types of seals. There is light contact rubber seal which i wouldn't want to hit with a high pressure cleaner ever. You can get seals that are full contact rubber seal that can handle being washed down, just don't go blasting the bearings for long as you will damage the seal.. You can get triple lip seals etc. The trade off is more friction, hence more heat.
You can look up how deep groove ball bearings are made and see how much grease to relube them with, or even better a bearing catalogue will tell you. Over lubrication will lead to premature failure. But as you saw one of those bearings had zero grease. Clean out the old grease , relube with injector nozzle and replace seals.
This video had some great info. Cheers for posting.
It's best to clean the bearing out first to remove any contaminants and to remove the old grease which may not be compatible with the new grease. You also want to push the grease into the bearing, not just wipe it across the top like you did.
Hello! Thank you for this excellent video. A small question, I have the same NTN bearings, me CS205LU, that I have to do, and I wonder why I have to use this motomaster white grease or would I be better off using my Prolab GS1000 synthetic bearing grease . I would like to be sure that I put the right grease and that it will go with the one already in the bearing. Sorry, I don't understand everything in English.
I got a new potter’s wheel and the bearings sounded dry. Thanks for teaching me how to maintain my own equipment!
Another excellent video. You definitely have good teaching talent. Very articulate.
SteveB.... I disagree about using white lithium grease. Also the bearing should be soaked in solvent and cleaned.
I learned something new. My 2009 Honda HRX217 has a bad clutch bearing....I'm getting a new one. But for son's lightly used 2012 HRR 216 mower I'll check the clutch bearing for wear....if it's ok I'll clean and repack with fresh grease. Thanks!
Great video! I'm currently restoring an old Makita mitre saw which has a a right angle gear box. I was recommended to use Lucas Xtra Heavy Polyurea grease by a friend. However I know polyurea grease is not compatible with lithium grease which I believe Makita uses from factory. I cleaned out all the yellow lithium grease in an effort to make sure all the new grease was the polyurea. However, then I realized that the sealed bearings inside the gear box also have grease which may react with the polyurea? Is that the case, and will some of the polyurea seep into the gears and mess them up? Would appreciate your thoughts.
I even check new bearings when replacing them in blade spindles and always remove a Electric PTO clutch on a lawn mower and add grease if necessary. The PTO bearings have been very low content of grease when new. I have a John Deere L130 mower that I greased the PTO clutch that will be ten years old this summer and is still working very well. A little maintenance on these bearings will save you lots of money and it is simple to do. 👍🏻
Don I didn’t tell you before you can pop out the metal seal cover as you do the “rubber” type. The will pop back in on all I have lubed.
Enjoyed your video, I’m a new subscriber and look forward to learning the proper way to do maintenance on my snowblower, etc.
Clutch "Throwout" bearings come to mind for this great tip....
For the John Deere bearings, could you leave the bearing covers off on the inside and use the grease fitting to keep them full?
Great video. A natural teacher.
Will the seal pop off if you reseal on old bearing? I did this method just recently. Bearings were dry and dirty. So I cleaned it and inspected the ball bearings itself and it did not show any signs of scars. So I repacked it and put the seal back. Gonna start the boat tomorrow and test it out.
I have worked on mechanical stuff for 35 to 40 years and never knew could remove that seals on a sealed bearing. I had used the needle but it puts a hole in your seal and grease finds it's way out and in no time your back to replacing the bearing. Thanks for showing us this video.
If bearings from table fan that i used it daily use how often should i need to apply grease on them? New table fan model not used sleeve bearings anymore they use small ball bearings on front and back motor inner casing.
Hey, cool stuff! Obviously a tradeoff/decision to make between replacing a bearing and just re-greasing it like this, but for things that aren't critical bearings (failure isn't going to destroy stuff) this could make a lot of stuff more salvageable!
thank you sir, I didn't know we can remove the cover to add grease, all bearing grease will be melt or burn out couples years...
Just serviced a very squeeky tensioner pulley yesterday. My first try at it. And my Idler Pulley bearing, since I had the drive belt off. Made sure I cleaned the heck out of them (both sides) with brake cleaner first. Until the bearings looked pristine. Lots of dry desert dust from SoCal coast. Then packed them good with red bearing grease. Re installed. The tensioner pulley still squeeks (1/10) as bad, maybe because it had a tiny 1/2 mm of side to side play. And because it was a cheap bearing on an AutoZone Duralast pulley from 15 - 20 years ago. Whereas the idler pulley was the original OEM part with an all metal bearing casing (good bearings like you had here) instead the cheaper plastic casing for the balls like in the tensioner pulley. Drove around a good 5 miles already - still some squeek - may have to order a new bearing for that. What's a good metal only bearing for a tensioner pulley? Who can I order it from with free shipping? Do I need to get #'s off casing ring? How do they measure it, outer diameter × hole diameter × width? What do the serial numbers on the side of the rings stand for?
What is the difference in the berring seal? Do some types of seals that permit the old grease to escape.
My mower that I am planning a berring refit is a 2009 Deere 7H17 commercial 48" comercial. The mower has around 10,000 hours and my deck is tight but very loud~120db so I am expecting the berrings are likely scored.
Hello From Mark In Kentucky, I was curious about what brand of grease that you normally use for mower spindles.
I’m getting ready to change out some JD9296 spindle bearings on a older John Deere 38 inch mower deck that are starting to roar pretty loudly after a few years of use.
For the most part, I am using the Lucas RedNTacky grease in which I also use to lubricate my mower deck spindles More than likely, I will probably load up my bearings like you did in your video before I install them in the spindle housings.
Being that I am using the Lucas grease, I wonder if I should wash out the grease in the new bearings and load with the Lucas grease that I normally use when I grease the spindles to avoid any reaction between the different brands of grease.
I have not seen anyone address this issue here on UA-cam.
Thanks for your great video regarding the bearings.
So for serpentine belt idler pulley, do you recommend high or low temp grease?
Dony, too much grease can make a bearing over heat. Half that amount is still too much. Those are high speed bearings not car wheel bearings. A little dab now and again will do as long as the seal is still good.
Thanks Tractor. Been in the SKF bearing business for years. All I hear is this bearing failed after one month but I grease it every day. Stop greasing it so much! A sealed bearing is sealed for the life of the bearing.
@@CoraFaye There are many folk who don't understand the functioning of ball and roller element bearings or how much lubricant is enough.
how can I tell if I have applied too much?
@@kiyotaka269 Grease expands when it gets hot so you shouldn’t completely fill the bearing otherwise it will run too hot and force liquid grease out the seal lip. The same filling an axle hub you should not fill completely to allow for expansion especially if the brake drum/ rotor is generating lots of heat into it.
@@derekfromtauranga6012 did you read my question you halfwit?
Donboy is the best at clear fix it videos, thanks so much for your time to show how its done.
There are further suggestions that should have been made know!( 1 ) There are different grades of grease ( SHOWN ) however the correct process is to use "for instance brake parts cleaner" to flush out all the old grease.( 2 ) NOTE: Remove BOTH sides seals then LIGHTLY blow compressed air thru to remove the residue. DO NOT SPIN THE BEARING WITH COMPRESSED AIR!NOTE: In high temp bearings the grease expands when under heat so don't pack more grease than needed.( 3 ) Once this has been completed pack the grease from both sides to force it into the inner channel groove then spin the bearing by hand to ensure the grease has been packed.( 4 ) REPEAT packing the bearing then remove excessive grease.( 5 ) Reinstall the side seals! Following this method will ensure the grease is fresh & there is no Old Residue of the previous grease. As twosence fromCleveland stated- QUOTE: Petroleum lubes generally mix, but the additive package for speed range, temperature (hot or cold), and various chemical repellent properties can "cake" when mixed. There is also silicone grease which won't mix with anything (rare though). This is why it is necessary to remove the OLD grease.KUDOS for a good video donyboy73
You would be better off to make your own video. Your suggestions sound valid but I could barely follow along. The grammar and punctuation leaves me wondering about certain steps.
@@clarencealexander1908 What don't you understand?
@@mattfoley6082 If he cant understand what was explained, he should not own tools.
@@clarencealexander1908 Are you slow?
Great video. Your work methods give my nervous system the jitters. You are applying firm pressure with a sharp pointed tool or a very sharp cutting tool and one of your non-replaceable hands is directly beneath your target object. One slip of your penetrating tool past the small bearing surface, and your hand is the next target. Please, rest the target bearing on a flat surface before applying the penetrating tools. Keep your non-replaceable fingers out of the line of fire, so to speak. In my many years of working on messy and large equipment I have not lost nor seriously damaged my body parts because I remind myself that my human body is the softest material involved in my manual labors. Machinery does not forgive mistakes or "opps".
By the way...
Cover that open sore on your right hand with medicinal "paper" tape (from drugstore) for several days. That temp covering will help your body cover over the open wound for healing. Dirt particles, oils, grease, etc, can get into an unprotected raw sore and interfere with the delicate healing fluids. The best tape has small breathing holes. This is good because the sore cannot be keep air tight and water logged for too long a time. I usually use handy paper tape used for sealing boxes. After a couple days normal hand washings will loosen it enough to slide off.
Ont apprend quelle que chose a tous les jour !! We learn some thing new every day !!!
certainement!
I used to finish grind bearings for a living but didn't work in assembly. The largest bearing I ever worked on was 13 feet in diameter, it took several shifts to grind it to size. Most of what I worked on was 4 to 10 foot diameter. As commentators have suggested (small) bearings can be cheap to replace but I've worked ones that cost the customer over $200,000.
Thank you! Similar technique based on this video It works on dura ace 9100 hollowtech bottom bracket.
Guitar pick works great too.
On a Automotive Radiator Fan Bracket there is a pulley with a pressed in sealed bearing, probably by Nachi or something like that. Also there is the idler pulley bearing, and the AC Clutch also has a sealed nachi bearing (Lexus ls400/ Denso compressor)
Can I use Redline synthetic CV-2 grease, NLGI Grade #2 service GC-LB and application range -100F to 500F. I was about to do my 4Runner CV Joints with this stuff. I thought maybe I could use brake cleaner spray on these sealed bearings (engine fan pulley, fan bracket pulley bearing..all those are sealed. Would BrakeC damage the seals? Any thoughts on this upcoming task I need to do?
I have gone through a Koyo industrial bearing class. We use a majority of the Koyo bearing on the equipment on the machinery at work. If the right type of sealed bearings are used in the correct applications. They claim they are sealed for the life of the bearing. But, we also pull the seals completely out of some bearings that are installed in a grease block
The sealed bearings usually found in mower deck spindles usually fail due to lack of proper lubrication. The spindle housings may have zerk fittings and you might THINK the bearings are receiving grease when you pump grease into them, but the truth is, they're sealed, which prevents any new grease from reaching the bearings.
The fix for this is to disassemble the spindles and remove the seals from one side of each of the bearings, then reassemble them with the open side of each bearing facing the middle of the spindle shaft. You should also drill a (one) SMALL weep hole in each spindle housing prior to reassembly. Make sure that after drilling, you carefully clean any metal from the spindle housing before reassembly.
Doing this will greatly reduce the incidence of spindle bearing failure... 😀
Do you really think that every engineer that has designed a mowing deck spindle was adding a grease zerk just to trick everyone if they add a grease fitting then we can ultimately trick all whole grease the spindles into thinking they are getting an amazing machine they can maintain and it will last forever but little do they know we have really screwed the end user by sneaking a couple of extra inner seals on both bearings so we can destroy there foolish lawnmower war on grass agenda and force them into buying more bearings and spindles??? Since it’s obvious you actually think this way and are very dumb how about you learn about bearings and seals and heat and why they use inner seals on the bearings and actually what the name of that seal is and how it works captain obvious!! Mowing deck spindles are not like a auto frontend spindle captain jackass they have a different seal captain jack nuts so how about you do some research before spreading false info to everyone or are you the one that started that world wide lie and have ppl pulling those seals out while ur skinning it back and scobbing ur mallet headed mushroom tip while ur poppa cleans it squeaky clean doing the reverse cowgirl on it at a medium pace so you don’t blow ur seal to fast!
If you remove the blade and pulley and use Red grease, after 50+ pumps you will see that grease has penetrated the inner seals and comes out the outer seals.
I want to do this on our zero turn but put a grease zert in. It has non-greasable spindels in it and I drilled and tapped a hole to put in a grease zert. My question is how do I let the excess grease out so it doesn't burst the seals? Drill a small hole, one way valve?
Drill a really small hole about 1/16" as far as possible from the zerk don't forget to clean out all the metal chips from drilling or you could make it worse.
be careful with the correct viscosity and amount of grease in high speed (like Alternator) bearings, or you'll spin the bearing in it's housing or on the shaft.
Hi all, is it okay to use bearings with rubber "contact seals" for brush cutters or do they need to be non contact/ metal seals
Yes as one comment about the one is you use the edge of a ten or twelve thousand feeler gauge The seat off without damaging use high quality I used to use teflon on some of my bearings make sure you wash your mouth out with dry air and some cleaning fluid.
I AM REPLACING MY WHEEL BEARING THO, I ORDERED A NEW CONTAINER OF HI-TEMP GREASE & I AM WAITING FOR IT TO ARRIVE. SHOULD I PRY THE SEAL OPEN & GREASE IT INTERNALLY LIKE YOU DID IN YOUR VIDEO??? IT'S A FRONT WHEEL DRIVE, WHEEL BEARING FROM T.R.Q.(TRUSTED RELIABLE QUALITY) FOR A 99-04 FORD FOCUS?????
you could check but usually good quality ones are well greased
excellent.i will be doing this to my idler pulley bearings very soon...thank you.