Thanks for making a video that doesn’t have annoying music, not skipping over “obvious “ removal steps, making a bunch of questionable diagnostic comments, and just keeping it simple!
Thanks for the demonstration. I've been experiencing a sensation of slipping since I passed 150 hours but the manual said it was a sealed unit. You're video showed me how to fix my problem.
👍. Here’s two more videos you might be interested in. m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUYVHJhbmtpc3Npb24gam9obiB3ZWVrZW5k m.ua-cam.com/video/3D_vtMg-Zxg/v-deo.html&pp=ygUUUmVhcmVuZCBqb2huIHdlZWtlbmQ%3D
Fantastic resource!! Really well done. I was ready to bin my D140 as the transmission replacement cost was coming in at an estimated $2500 in Australia. No way I was going to give JD any more of my money. Gave this process a crack and for $100 in oil and a couple of hours of my time it is running like new. Magic!! Only mistake i made was damaging the magnet when putting it all back together as it was stuck to the plug and smashed when I was trying to knock it in.
This is about my fourth video, and you have the best technique, especially for someone whd doesn't have a lot of fancy equipment. Didn't feel comfortable lifting the back end up so high and stepping over the back end. Took two long pieces of 2X2 lumber, drilled holes, and attached them to the frame where the transaxle bolts up. Walked off with it like a wheelbarrow. Thanks for posting.
You all probably dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost my account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Casen Brixton thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Good video. I watched a few different videos on this subject before tackling it today. SUCCESS! A few things: the fluid capacity is 2.2 quarts (2 quarts, almost 4 ounces). I used 20W50 GTX oil (2 quarts) and the makeup ounces in Lucas Oil Treatment (since I didn't want 28 ounces of 20W-50 sitting around I would never use. Incrementally, I will use the Lucas in mowers, etc. I used jack stands under the axle (right next to the wheels) for great support and access. Honestly, the work isn't that hard. Tricky to balance the transmission a bit getting it out and in. Really, for me the tedious part was getting the cotter pins out of the three rods underneath. I replaced them with what I call spring pins. I would also suggest blocking the front tires, and I liked the shim into the front suspension...something others did not do. I found two 2x2 boards at the front and back of the rear tires after you drop them and roll them into place helps keep the unit from moving. Use a snap ring pliers and take the retaining ring off so you can take the fan and pully off before draining. And shaking the transmission some and tipping the tires up and down each way in the draining process helps get all the old oil out. I also LIGHTLY put a locking plier around the drive shaft and turned it a number of times in the refill process to help the oil get throughout the unit. I am not that mechanically inclined, but this was doable. I let it drain for nearly an hour, agitating it occasionally. Total work time about 3.5 hours...with some starts and stops and "I forgots" (fully assembled, hadn't put the drive belt on the pully.
Just did this procedure on my L120. Mine would barely move after a short time mowing and forget reverse completely. Well, after draining the old fluid and replacing it with Castrol 5w50 Synthetic, it did make an improvement, but I haven’t completely mowed my 3 acres of grass yet, so the jury is out as to what will happen when it really heats up. It’s definitely better though and I’m happy about that. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be, so I would definitely recommend doing it to anyone who is having issues with their K46 transmission. Sure beats the cost of a replacement unit, or worse yet, having to junk the whole tractor. Thanks to you and all the others that have posted similar videos!
I have a 2004 JD 145 Automatic and after 15 minutes it’s struggling going up hills. The video is great since the local John Deere dealer is backed up for weeks. My machine has close to 200 hours. Just basic maintenance and this machine is still going strong.
@@timferguson593 Remove the deck put parking brake and remove the bolts and replace with new pulleys. It’s much easier doing that instead of messing with putting a new drive belt which requires removing the clutch and steering.
What happened to older models where you just pull the drain plug on the bottom and let it drain . Manufacturers and dealers are making it to complicated to work on so they can rip YOU OFF ....
Thank you for your video! I changed my transmission oil this evening, runs great again, no slippage. My belt keeper and pulley design was a bit different on my L110. The pulley was on top, above the fan, the keeper was mounted to the frame and was a piece of tin with three tabs that encompassed the pulley when the body was lowered onto the axle.
Excellent. I need to do this now - and been putting it off since some of the earlier videos made it look much harder. You work and video are excellent. Thank you.
You are a life saver! I have had to rebuild my LA 110's front end, Mower deck and I also am replacing all the drive components , belt pulleys and changing the oil in the transmission.
for the rear trans guide bolt I used the 6mm hex with a flexible right angle adapter with my impact driver. took 5 seconds to take the stud out and reinstall.
My L130 has been whining and struggling until it pretty much stopped moving last Fall. Wishing I had researched this a few years ago. BUT, I dragged it out into the middle of th garage this weekend and followed the steps (a couple slight variations due to the model) and removed the backend. covered in dirt, blasted it with a hose, degreaser, etc. Drained, and refilled using 5W50. Magnet hd plenty of fine stuff but not as bad as I've seen in some videos here. Did as you did, tipping the axle up on one tire then the next, spinning the fan while holding the drive lever, etc. Topped off, put it back together and presto! Forward and reverse once again, with seemingly more power than it's had in recent years. Managed to forget to put the magnet back in but will happily pull it off again this weekend knowing that the fluid replacement seemed to do the trick. Mine's 18 or 19 years old 250 hours on it, and this is the first time the transmission has been dealt with. Was sure it was going to need a rebuild or replacement. Thanks for your video. Watching this one and a couple others made it possible for me to work on something I didn't have the know-how to do.
I watched the demo, removed the transfer case as described and noticed something unexpected on my craftsman lawn tractor. I did a lot of work not needed. The tow plate in the rear is attached by 4 easily removable bolts, remove the bolts and the rear hitch cover plate is removable! Take it off and their is the breather hose in easy to service!! Screw the breather hose off, syphon the fluid, refill and install the rear cover and your done in 1 hour..
Thanks for this awesome video!!! I had the same problem and I solved it with your video!!! My D170 runs like new with 216 hours on it! Time for an oil change!!!
All done. As u said took about 2 hrs. First time I ever did a oil change on anything haha. Watched your video step by step. All went well. Just hoping this helps with the power now...tractor has 525 hrs and was never "serviced" Thanks again. My only complaint was I left my mower deck on while working on it🙄
I've got a 2015 X320 with 275 hours, and it has really been struggling on my hilly property once the transmission gets hot. If I run cold water over the transmission for a few minutes, it helps dramatically. I'm hoping I don't need a transmission replacement, so I would like to start with a trans oil change first. Hopefully it helps, I miss cruising up the hills effortlessly while mowing. Or maybe its time to move up to the X570 diesel...
Will be using Amzoil Hydrostatic zero turn 20w-50 oil with a preferred price less than $10 a qt. This oil can take the heat and maintain its viscosity for a longer period!
Imagine going to pick up your JD tractor at the dealer and viewing a $140.00 charge to check transmission oil. Tuff-Torque made it a pain to check and R@R. But it is one tough transmission baring the inability to check levels and purity. Another great video on this tranny can be seen at Taryl Fixes All.
Great demo. This is a fairly simple project for someone with a bit of experience to get more. I liked that you cleaned the differential after removing it. I would do that too because one rarely gets the chance to do this You make this look easy but I know from experience that it takes patience and practice and that doing it right is worth the effort. Thanks!
Great video! I just worked on neighbor girls Sabre By John Deere .Would start slipping moving slowly when it got hot! I took the trans axle down and the pulley had already been welded to the shaft so that was one thing I was going to check for . The next thing is the oil inside looked like milky cutting fluid watered down. It was low also .I dumped it all out and cleaned the filter screen in the filler tube and filled with 20 w 50 oil ! I also ran the pump with a drill as I filled it. Runs pretty well now ! I ran it up some very steep hills and tried to get it to slip ! Seems good now ! I now know the is a Tuff Torque K - 51 Trans axle 1742b tractor! I am going to look for some used mowers on junk days ,see if I can find donor Transaxle!
Thanks. Good video. It took me a while longer than it did you. FYI: If you look on top of the belt retaining bolt you can use a 6MM allen socket to take it out an reinstall.
Having an old 185 hydro where both the trans and diff oils can be changed without removing the rear assembly, was almost in disbelief watching this and wondering why there’s no drain plug, and why the filler is a thin press-in versus something stronger and threaded. It wouldn’t cost much at all for Deere to make these upgrades in production so what gives? I guess this is part of why the 185 is still going strong 35 years later and the new light riders seem to be disposable.
Yes I agree,20W50 helps a lot , I used Tuff Torqs oil when I changed my oil and still had trouble going up hills after an hour of use. I switch out to Amsoil Hydrostatic oil 20w50 and it goes up hills all day long now. The thicker oil worked for me.
Thanks for uploading this video! Just done my machine, test ran. All sweet. Very nervous just before starting this task, after watching your video number of times, (and in between too). Thanks
thanks fixed my tractor for $70. do prime the transmission, long story short I didn't and had run it for 2 minutes pulled the transmission out a second time and the oil dropped about 1 inch, below the magnet. Lucky I had a problem. I used Mobil 1 5w50 as it was the only 5w50 I could get.
Thanks, I recently purchased a used TL 155 and I’m certain it probably needs the gearbox oil changed so I will commence to doing that this weekend ,good video!
Know we went back and forth not trying to find those comments lol. But taking the time today to do this right this video while doing it almost takes no time to do I expected this to take WAY longer. Thanks for the video will update you on noise once it’s drained cleaned and out back together
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic so. Excuse my ignorance here. So when I tip it I’m not trying to fill both chambers/sides I’m just getting some in there (when tipping to each side by lifting wheels as you did) then the main spot where the magnet is needs to be 22-25 mm down from top
Great how to video. I just wish you would have covered how to check the pulley for wear to let us know if it needs to be replaced or not. Thanks for posting. Nice c6 vette in the back ground. I have a c5 vette myself.
Simple and on point with this one! Will help me out with dropping the trans. Along with other ones showing how to install tuff torq drain bolts. Essential process of changing out fluid to keep it in good working order!
My D170 is really struggling to go up hill after about an hour of mowing, never knew about changing the oil. My manual says no owner maintenance on transmission - go figure! Going to get some oil today and change oil, hope it helps.
Hope it helps. You can check out my "Part 5, LA165 John Deere Lawn Mower Tractor Mower rebuild". I take the trans apart. (I wouldn't take it apart unless it stops working)
and if you take it to the John Deere dealer, they'll tell you the same thing, no maintenance. They'll say you have to replace the old transmission with a new one when all you really need to do is change the oil. The cost of doing that is high enough so that most homeowners will choose to buy a new tractor which is exactly what John Deere wants you to do every 4 or 5 years. that's why they use these crappy designed "unserviceable" throwaway transmissions. They also never tell you that if you plan on keeping your tractor for more than 4 years, you should do maintenance on the transaxle after the first 50 hour break in period. That's when the oil will be dirtiest with metal shavings in the gearbox. You should remove the transaxle and take it apart to remove all the dirty oil and metal shavings out of the gearbox, and then replace the old factory installed 10W30 oil with a slightly heavier grade 5W50 oil. That will give your transaxle maximum torque and a much longer life.
My LT166 is a 2002 and has never had the trans fluid changed. I called the dealer about it and he asked "is it slipping"? No, it has never slipped or done anything out of the ordinary. He said just leave it alone then. Well that is what I did and it is still working perfectly so ????
I would have taken it a few steps further while the axle was out and popped off the lower pan, cleaned it, drill a hole in it, tap it, and add a drain plug. That’s too much effort to keep going through every couple of hundred hours just for an oil change. Alternatively, I would look into the possibility of just pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole with a 12 volt fluid pump. Otherwise, nice work! It’s good to see someone taking care of his tractor! They sure don’t give them away when you need a new one!
I like the way they make those so it's almost impossible for the regular owner to change that fluid. Thankfully I'm a mechanic and do things myself. Most people don't ever change their trans mission fluid for the life of their mower. Too bad.
good video, I have a John deere 110, with 425 hours, I have never serviced the differential, it sounds very dry, I think it needs an urgent oil change.
The noise you hear is the hydraulic pump. (Normal). It wouldn't hurt to change the oil when you have time on your hands........ Don't overfill it. 22-25mm top edge.
I'm looking at possibly buying a used john deere x350 from my dealer. Looks,runs,and drives great. Its got 296 hours on it and has the k46 transmission. Of course I have no way of knowing how it was used and possibly abused,but it looks to of been garage kept. They're asking $2900 for it,but they also have an x580 which has the serviceable k72 transmission. It's the same year and condition, but has 500 hours on it. They're asking $3999 for it. I do mow some hills that my current ltx1040 cub cadet struggles with. If it were you,would you buy a small newer mower,the 300 hour x300,or the x580 with 500 hours on it? As long as the engine and tranny are sound I dont mind replacing belts,spindles,and switches. I'm pretty mechanical, just thrifty. I mow about an acre and a half a week
Bigger the tractor the better, lol. Offer them $3750, $3800. Tell them you want the oil changed in the transmission . A X580 here in Canada are over $6000us.
Thank you for the great video.... I’m going to replace the drive belt and rear end fluid.... the tractor I’m working on has a lot of play in the steering.... do you have a video for that issue...???
Thank you very much for the time producing this video, well done and lot's of good educational information! Seems this is a lot of labor for a simple drain/fill procedure. Is there an aftermarket and/or new version of the oil pan with a drain plug or would removing the bottom of the transmission pan to drain then fluid, reinstall pan with new gasket, then refill the transmission as an other option to avoid the labor and time to remove the transmission axle?
i cant tell what hydro fluid i need for my john deere 190C 25hp? is there an amsoil product i can put in there i want the best of the best? thank you on the video i am going to take my trans out tomorrow and look at things
Great video! Are there any current production lawn tractors that do have a proper drain/fill plug? I hear Cub Cadet XT1 does, or did, but I am not sure.
That’s the only one that I know that has them. You have to lower to transmission down a couple of inches to fill it back up. You need a mirror to look at the oil level so you don’t over fill it.
Thank you. Having watched this I have no reluctance to tackle a fluid change. You did not omit a single step. Appreciated. I have a low hours JD 160 and since I mow straight up some very steep hills I expect my transaxle will benefit from a switch to full synthetic and regular changes. I have 40 hours on the tractor now. Should I do the first fluid change at 50 hours?
@@joshlasceski The JD 160 has a gear drive transmission (Peerless, if I remember correctly), not a Tuff-Torq. According to my dealer, there is no need to service it. I have about 1700 hrs on mine. As for the Tuff-Torq, it seems to me like a pretty poor design if you have to remove the transmission from the tractor just to change the oil!
Thanks so much for this great video. I don't think I have ever saw any one do as many replies as you have. My JD LA 145 is VERY SLOW going up hill. It has about 425 hours on it and the transmission oil has never been changed. There is also whining noise which may be coming from the tyranny...(not sure). Which oil, 5W50 or 20W50 do you recommend? I'm in Va. so the mower is used in, some what, colder temperatures. Thanks again!
I let my tenant use my JD LA120 and they reported it quick working. I'm 400 miles away and can only work on it in snippets. I replaced the lever arm from the PTO handle to make the blades function again but when I tried to move it there is no tarns action. Unit has 800 hours on it. I wondered if they had pushed or pulled it and broken the trans. The neutral rod was pushed in so trans was engaged. Don't know if that could break the trans. I pushed the neutral rod in and out a few times. No luck. The trans drive belt is still there. Mostly wanting to know if the unit was pushed or pulled hard in-gear can that break the trans. TIA
Maybe they broke the drive belt. Have a look if the fan is Turing on top of the transmission. You will need someone on the tractor to engage the transmission. You should be able to see the top of trans under the left side between the fenderdeck and back wheel. With the brake off, the belt should be tight.
Very nice. Hugh help. Your info regarding retaining bolt versus removing fan - priceless!😊 I am ready to drain tank. Getting it disassembled was quite doable. And my fins were SO FNG BAD. UGLY in there. I am doing the belt as well. So appreciated.🎉🎉 5 stars....
I have to do this to my 140 I was just trying to find out how to do it thanks for sharing I appreciate it. I also subscribed to your channel. On my way out.
I have a tuff torq t40 should i use the original 10w30 that is calls for or somthing thicker i have a power problem after a year of use. I have changed all the pulleys and the drive belt on my JD and still nada as far as fixing.
Tuff call on that one. Ticker oil will help but it will slow it down a bit. Check the color of the oil. Dark means it’s not good. Filter could be dirty.
i am getting ready to strip one of these l130s down and what is the wire that runs to the rearend? i see yours has a wire hooked to it.. mine dont care to answer? thank you
My tractors an L series. I broke the breather thinking it was the fill and my neutral selector. internals look different and the oil level is about 2 inches down. Not sure if I fill it to the lip if it will over pressure
@@devinglis3179 Degrease it and add a dab of silicone gasket maker, it will hold it just fine. Did this a few times. I redid this video with better camera angles: ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
I have a JD 190C with the tuff torq k62. My question is it says it has two separate drain and fill points (one for the hydro stat the other for the trans axle) and I have to prime it as it does not self prime. But you just dumped yours over and filled back up. Am I missing something?
K62/K66 transmissions are a bit hard to prime after an oil change. Different transmissions. They trap air bubbles. To prime these you have to leave the filler caps off the transmission. Jack up the tractor (use jack stands), run the tractor for a bit. Then shut off the tractor, rotate the back wheels (by hand) back and forward. Top up your fluid levels. Then repeat the process again. Do this three or four times. After you get some resistance in the back wheels, run the tractor for 30 secs (forward/backward). The wheels should start spinning. Top up your fluid levels again. Install the filler caps.
My machine (D125) leaked a fair amount of transmission fluid while in the garage for the winter. Watched your video and dropped the rear axle. Mine appears to be leaking from around the other cap that is on top of the transmission, not the flat fill cap. I can't seem to figure out what this cap is called to order a replacement. Any idea?
The breather cap? It sits a little higher the fill cap? Oil won’t leak out from the top of the transmission just sitting idle. It will leak a bit if there’s a bit too much oil in the transmission. No biggie, it will stop. Check to see if it’s leaking around the axles seals or the bottom pan gasket…. Also check the fill cap for crack in the rubber.
I mean the Mfg. putting in a drain plug and fill plug might have saved us all a lot of hassle. Thats why i will never sell my Craftsman GTs... they will run forever with proper maintenance (like changing the trans fluid since it only take 10 mins) My LT2000 requires a process similar to this and takes 3+ hours.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic just completed the project. This video was very helpful. I went with Amsoil 20-50 hydrostatic fluid. D140 only has one magnetic with a slot built in on the tranny :)
Would this be the same procedure with the X380- K58? I only have 130 hours on the unit, just curious to do this in the next year or so. I only put roughly 50-70 hours per year, cutting 2 acres.
@hilljack6765 Thank you for the information. I currently only have 153 hrs. I just completed the valve adjustment this weekend with new gaskets and new tie rod ends. I will put this off until another year or 2 before I'm even in the 200+ hr range.
Clean for vent cap and transmission. Add a small amount of silicone and place the vent cap on top. Let it sit for a bit. Remove the transmission and drain the fluid out of it. Check out this video m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUiVHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uIG9pbCBjaGFuZ2Ugam9obiBkZWVyZQ%3D%3D
Bought my l120 used last year with almost 700 hours on it. Did good for few months. But by the end of season it was sluggish going up hills. How often should the fluid be changed?
I have a John Deere gt245. I sent it to you the repair shop to replace the transmission drive belt and when I got it back the transmission itself is leaking whether running or sitting. It seems like it's coming both out of the overflow bottle and from somewhere else. Thoughts?
If it’s coming out of the overflow bottle it’s probably air in system. You can suck a bit of oil out of the bottle and run the tractor for a while. Then check the oil level after.
Probably the oil seal is leaking. Not a big deal to change. Part #MIU804267. I redid this video. Check it out:. m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUhSm9obiBkZWVyZSBvaWwgY2hhbmdlIHRyYW5taXNzaW9u
Very informative. But a question for yah. I have a 2015 CUB CADET XT2 LX46 with no manual. Would you know what transaxle normally comes with it? In not, how do I go to find out the easiest way? Thx much.
How much trans fluid does it take? Trying to order ahead of doing the job. Also, I'm thinking of synthetic 20w50 hydrostatic fluid as I don't use in winter. Anyone foresee issues with that?
Tuff Torq suggests 10w30, 5w-50 oil, or Hy-Gard High Viscosity J20C . (Can be bought at a John Deere delivership). Check out this link: tufftorq.ordertree.com/media/promo/TuffTorq/OIL%20LIST%20V3.3.pdf
Absolutely great video and very detailed.
Thank you for NOT telling a 10 minute story about everything unrelated to the project at hand..
Glad it was helpful! I remade this video with less camera shakes. Better camera angles.
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
Thanks for making a video that doesn’t have annoying music, not skipping over “obvious “ removal steps, making a bunch of questionable diagnostic comments, and just keeping it simple!
Wish they just put a drain plug on the thing lol. Looks like I’m in for a day of work instead of a half hour. Thanks man for the video
If your transmission slip or slows down when it's hot I'd ad 20w50 oil. Don't overfill it. 22mm-25mm from the top edge of the fill cap.
You can add a drain plug.
I think the intent was to have owners just buy another new 100 series mower rather than do the troublesome maintenance.
Exactly. Selling my sst18. Just got a cub zt150
@@Moutanman that incapable of maintaining your equipment you just buy new instead?… your neighbors must love collecting your trash.
Thanks for the demonstration. I've been experiencing a sensation of slipping since I passed 150 hours but the manual said it was a sealed unit. You're video showed me how to fix my problem.
👍. Here’s two more videos you might be interested in.
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUYVHJhbmtpc3Npb24gam9obiB3ZWVrZW5k
m.ua-cam.com/video/3D_vtMg-Zxg/v-deo.html&pp=ygUUUmVhcmVuZCBqb2huIHdlZWtlbmQ%3D
Fantastic resource!! Really well done.
I was ready to bin my D140 as the transmission replacement cost was coming in at an estimated $2500 in Australia. No way I was going to give JD any more of my money. Gave this process a crack and for $100 in oil and a couple of hours of my time it is running like new.
Magic!!
Only mistake i made was damaging the magnet when putting it all back together as it was stuck to the plug and smashed when I was trying to knock it in.
my d110 wont go up a hill, what probs did you have and did changing the oil work?
I think it’s a good video it doesn’t get to over the top with details. It does cover it step by step with a 2 hour video.
This is about my fourth video, and you have the best technique, especially for someone whd doesn't have a lot of fancy equipment. Didn't feel comfortable lifting the back end up so high and stepping over the back end. Took two long pieces of 2X2 lumber, drilled holes, and attached them to the frame where the transaxle bolts up. Walked off with it like a wheelbarrow. Thanks for posting.
You all probably dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost my account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Lorenzo Shawn Instablaster ;)
@Casen Brixton thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Casen Brixton it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass :D
@Lorenzo Shawn glad I could help =)
Good video. I watched a few different videos on this subject before tackling it today. SUCCESS! A few things: the fluid capacity is 2.2 quarts (2 quarts, almost 4 ounces). I used 20W50 GTX oil (2 quarts) and the makeup ounces in Lucas Oil Treatment (since I didn't want 28 ounces of 20W-50 sitting around I would never use. Incrementally, I will use the Lucas in mowers, etc. I used jack stands under the axle (right next to the wheels) for great support and access. Honestly, the work isn't that hard. Tricky to balance the transmission a bit getting it out and in. Really, for me the tedious part was getting the cotter pins out of the three rods underneath. I replaced them with what I call spring pins. I would also suggest blocking the front tires, and I liked the shim into the front suspension...something others did not do. I found two 2x2 boards at the front and back of the rear tires after you drop them and roll them into place helps keep the unit from moving. Use a snap ring pliers and take the retaining ring off so you can take the fan and pully off before draining. And shaking the transmission some and tipping the tires up and down each way in the draining process helps get all the old oil out. I also LIGHTLY put a locking plier around the drive shaft and turned it a number of times in the refill process to help the oil get throughout the unit. I am not that mechanically inclined, but this was doable. I let it drain for nearly an hour, agitating it occasionally. Total work time about 3.5 hours...with some starts and stops and "I forgots" (fully assembled, hadn't put the drive belt on the pully.
Good work.
Just did this procedure on my L120. Mine would barely move after a short time mowing and forget reverse completely. Well, after draining the old fluid and replacing it with Castrol 5w50 Synthetic, it did make an improvement, but I haven’t completely mowed my 3 acres of grass yet, so the jury is out as to what will happen when it really heats up. It’s definitely better though and I’m happy about that. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be, so I would definitely recommend doing it to anyone who is having issues with their K46 transmission. Sure beats the cost of a replacement unit, or worse yet, having to junk the whole tractor. Thanks to you and all the others that have posted similar videos!
A heavier oil would help too. (20w50).
You need a sheader and tractor
Great job. I wish I could give you a million likes just for you cleaning that transmission to factory new. Great job on the video and the work.
Thanks!...
I have a 2004 JD 145 Automatic and after 15 minutes it’s struggling going up hills. The video is great since the local John Deere dealer is backed up for weeks. My machine has close to 200 hours. Just basic maintenance and this machine is still going strong.
did you fix your issue with an oil change?
Hope you check your drive belt..or belts and drive pulleys (bearings go out) before dropping trans. Hate for you to jump straight to this scenario. :)
That rear pulley under the fan should be replaced while your at it. This helps a lot
@@timferguson593 Remove the deck put parking brake and remove the bolts and replace with new pulleys. It’s much easier doing that instead of messing with putting a new drive belt which requires removing the clutch and steering.
What happened to older models where you just pull the drain plug on the bottom and let it drain . Manufacturers and dealers are making it to complicated to work on so they can rip YOU OFF ....
Thank you for your video! I changed my transmission oil this evening, runs great again, no slippage. My belt keeper and pulley design was a bit different on my L110. The pulley was on top, above the fan, the keeper was mounted to the frame and was a piece of tin with three tabs that encompassed the pulley when the body was lowered onto the axle.
Glad it helped
Excellent. I need to do this now - and been putting it off since some of the earlier videos made it look much harder. You work and video are excellent. Thank you.
Ram Chillarege thx man.... Make sure you don’t over fill it After priming the pump, the oil level should be 22-25mm down.
You are a life saver! I have had to rebuild my LA 110's front end, Mower deck and I also am replacing all the drive components , belt pulleys and changing the oil in the transmission.
Awesome…
for the rear trans guide bolt I used the 6mm hex with a flexible right angle adapter with my impact driver. took 5 seconds to take the stud out and reinstall.
My L130 has been whining and struggling until it pretty much stopped moving last Fall. Wishing I had researched this a few years ago. BUT, I dragged it out into the middle of th garage this weekend and followed the steps (a couple slight variations due to the model) and removed the backend. covered in dirt, blasted it with a hose, degreaser, etc. Drained, and refilled using 5W50. Magnet hd plenty of fine stuff but not as bad as I've seen in some videos here. Did as you did, tipping the axle up on one tire then the next, spinning the fan while holding the drive lever, etc. Topped off, put it back together and presto! Forward and reverse once again, with seemingly more power than it's had in recent years. Managed to forget to put the magnet back in but will happily pull it off again this weekend knowing that the fluid replacement seemed to do the trick. Mine's 18 or 19 years old 250 hours on it, and this is the first time the transmission has been dealt with. Was sure it was going to need a rebuild or replacement. Thanks for your video. Watching this one and a couple others made it possible for me to work on something I didn't have the know-how to do.
Awesome. Make sure the oil level is 3/4in down from the top edge.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I was sure to follow that. I think I saw it in the comments.
Thank you.
This video was very helpful. Serviced my D160 Today.
I appreciate it.
I watched the demo, removed the transfer case as described and noticed something unexpected on my craftsman lawn tractor. I did a lot of work not needed. The tow plate in the rear is attached by 4 easily removable bolts, remove the bolts and the rear hitch cover plate is removable! Take it off and their is the breather hose in easy to service!! Screw the breather hose off, syphon the fluid, refill and install the rear cover and your done in 1 hour..
Thanks for this awesome video!!! I had the same problem and I solved it with your video!!! My D170 runs like new with 216 hours on it! Time for an oil change!!!
Excellent video. Thank you. Your attention to detail is perfect. I need to do this job on a 155C
All done. As u said took about 2 hrs.
First time I ever did a oil change on anything haha. Watched your video step by step. All went well.
Just hoping this helps with the power now...tractor has 525 hrs and was never "serviced" Thanks again.
My only complaint was I left my mower deck on while working on it🙄
Awesome...
I've got a 2015 X320 with 275 hours, and it has really been struggling on my hilly property once the transmission gets hot. If I run cold water over the transmission for a few minutes, it helps dramatically. I'm hoping I don't need a transmission replacement, so I would like to start with a trans oil change first. Hopefully it helps, I miss cruising up the hills effortlessly while mowing.
Or maybe its time to move up to the X570 diesel...
X320 have a more heavy duty K56 Transmission. Trans oil should be change every 200hrs. Hope it helps...
Will be using Amzoil Hydrostatic zero turn 20w-50 oil with a preferred price less than $10 a qt. This oil can take the heat and maintain its viscosity for a longer period!
I'll have to try this oil next time.. Thx...
I'm with you on the 20-50
@@me37594 or castrol 20W 50. Used it in my lawn mowers and motorcycle engines and car engines for 50 years. Never any problems. thanks. 🙂
Imagine going to pick up your JD tractor at the dealer and viewing a $140.00 charge to check transmission oil. Tuff-Torque made it a pain to check and R@R. But it is one tough transmission baring the inability to check levels and purity. Another great video on this tranny can be seen at Taryl Fixes All.
This is the one I recommend you kept it simple !!
Thanks. Try this one.
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUcSm9obiBkZWVyZSBvaWwgdHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uIA%3D%3D
I just acquired a mower similar to this with 1200 hours on it and no knowledge of previous service history. This is on my to do list.
Thanks,
Goose
Great demo. This is a fairly simple project for someone with a bit of experience to get more. I liked that you cleaned the differential after removing it. I would do that too because one rarely gets the chance to do this You make this look easy but I know from experience that it takes patience and practice and that doing it right is worth the effort. Thanks!
👍. I redid this video. Better camera angles. Check it out. m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
Great video! I just worked on neighbor girls Sabre By John Deere .Would start slipping moving slowly when it got hot! I took the trans axle down and the pulley had already been welded to the shaft so that was one thing I was going to check for . The next thing is the oil inside looked like milky cutting fluid watered down. It was low also .I dumped it all out and cleaned the filter screen in the filler tube and filled with 20 w 50 oil ! I also ran the pump with a drill as I filled it. Runs pretty well now ! I ran it up some very steep hills and tried to get it to slip ! Seems good now ! I now know the is a Tuff Torque K - 51 Trans axle 1742b tractor! I am going to look for some used mowers on junk days ,see if I can find donor Transaxle!
Awesome
Thanks. Good video. It took me a while longer than it did you. FYI: If you look on top of the belt retaining bolt you can use a 6MM allen socket to take it out an reinstall.
👍
Looks pretty straightforward! My lt160 is similar, has 700 hours on the oil I'm the 2nd owner just picked her up from a relative
Having an old 185 hydro where both the trans and diff oils can be changed without removing the rear assembly, was almost in disbelief watching this and wondering why there’s no drain plug, and why the filler is a thin press-in versus something stronger and threaded. It wouldn’t cost much at all for Deere to make these upgrades in production so what gives? I guess this is part of why the 185 is still going strong 35 years later and the new light riders seem to be disposable.
They wanted it to break and you go buy a new peace of junk mower 😢😢😢
Oil Level after priming the Pump & motor should be down 22mm 25mm from the top edge of the filler cap.
@@mauricearian1872 Awesome fast work....
Nice helpful video👍 my D160 is slipping and is having trouble going uphill again nice video
Add 20-w50 oil instead of 5w-50. Usually, the hydraulic motor in the transmission is getting weak.
Yes I agree,20W50 helps a lot , I used Tuff Torqs oil when I changed my oil and still had trouble going up hills after an hour of use. I switch out to Amsoil Hydrostatic oil 20w50 and it goes up hills all day long now. The thicker oil worked for me.
Thanks for uploading this video! Just done my machine, test ran. All sweet. Very nervous just before starting this task, after watching your video number of times, (and in between too). Thanks
Glad it helped!
thanks fixed my tractor for $70. do prime the transmission, long story short I didn't and had run it for 2 minutes pulled the transmission out a second time and the oil dropped about 1 inch, below the magnet. Lucky I had a problem. I used Mobil 1 5w50 as it was the only 5w50 I could get.
Thanks, I recently purchased a used TL 155 and I’m certain it probably needs the gearbox oil changed so I will commence to doing that this weekend ,good video!
A little more work to the TL models but similar.. The only problem is hooking up the Forward/Reverse rod back on. Not much room.
Know we went back and forth not trying to find those comments lol. But taking the time today to do this right this video while doing it almost takes no time to do I expected this to take WAY longer. Thanks for the video will update you on noise once it’s drained cleaned and out back together
👍. Don’t overfill it. 22-25mm from the top edge after priming the pump. If you don’t prime the pump set the level 20-22.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I gotta go get another couple quarts of oil lol then I can check level/prime
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic 22-25 seems kind of low while measuring it out lol have to prime it and see how much it goes down
@@DEFGraves You don’t want the oil for Gears side & Pump side mix too much. That’s why it’s down 22-25mm from the top edge.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic so. Excuse my ignorance here. So when I tip it I’m not trying to fill both chambers/sides I’m just getting some in there (when tipping to each side by lifting wheels as you did) then the main spot where the magnet is needs to be 22-25 mm down from top
Thank you so much for making this video! I will be doing this service this fall as my D110 has 250 hours on it.
Awesome. I redid this video with a tripod. Way better video. Check it out:
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
Can't believe they dont have a drain plug and a fill plug. Couldnt cost over $2.
I dont think the dealership could do this job.
Very well explained and photographed. Thank you.
Awesome step by step coverage mate! Thank you
How about if John Deere just put a drain plug on the bottom??
Great how to video. I just wish you would have covered how to check the pulley for wear to let us know if it needs to be replaced or not. Thanks for posting. Nice c6 vette in the back ground. I have a c5 vette myself.
have done this a lot of times but your way was faster and simpler
Is there no way to lift up the seat and maybe drill a hole to get access to that filler cap? Seems like it would be a lot easier.
No, the gas tank is in the way and you have to turn the tracker upside down to drain the old oil. You can remove the fenderdeck but that takes longer.
Simple and on point with this one! Will help me out with dropping the trans. Along with other ones showing how to install tuff torq drain bolts. Essential process of changing out fluid to keep it in good working order!
Thx man. Hate repeating myself but don't overfill it with oil. Oil level should be down 22mm 25mm from the top edge of the filler cap
I also downloaded from TT a diagram that shows like you did the level mark,plus it also tells me it will need 2 liters.
Have you seen the newer filter media that’s available now for tuff torq trans? Much better that the screen filter that it came with!
@@ticman1962 Yup.. Way better filtration..
My D170 is really struggling to go up hill after about an hour of mowing, never knew about changing the oil. My manual says no owner maintenance on transmission - go figure!
Going to get some oil today and change oil, hope it helps.
Hope it helps. You can check out my "Part 5, LA165 John Deere Lawn Mower Tractor Mower rebuild". I take the trans apart.
(I wouldn't take it apart unless it stops working)
and if you take it to the John Deere dealer, they'll tell you the same thing, no maintenance. They'll say you have to replace the old transmission with a new one when all you really need to do is change the oil. The cost of doing that is high enough so that most homeowners will choose to buy a new tractor which is exactly what John Deere wants you to do every 4 or 5 years. that's why they use these crappy designed "unserviceable" throwaway transmissions. They also never tell you that if you plan on keeping your tractor for more than 4 years, you should do maintenance on the transaxle after the first 50 hour break in period. That's when the oil will be dirtiest with metal shavings in the gearbox. You should remove the transaxle and take it apart to remove all the dirty oil and metal shavings out of the gearbox, and then replace the old factory installed 10W30 oil with a slightly heavier grade 5W50 oil. That will give your transaxle maximum torque and a much longer life.
@@mrbubetube GREAT comment, every body should read this.
Thanks for your accuracy, I'm doing this on Saturday. ✔️
I made a better video. Have a look. m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
I have a JD s160 with 200 hours, this video is very helpful
I updated this video. Check it out.
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUhSHlkcm9zdGF0aWMgY2hhbmdlIG9pbCBqb2huIGRlZXJl
My LT166 is a 2002 and has never had the trans fluid changed. I called the dealer about it and he asked "is it slipping"? No, it has never slipped or done anything out of the ordinary. He said just leave it alone then. Well that is what I did and it is still working perfectly so ????
I use a over head hoist and it’s pretty fast and easy to drop rear end and replace it
Hard to check the oil level that way.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanicmeasure it😊
I would have taken it a few steps further while the axle was out and popped off the lower pan, cleaned it, drill a hole in it, tap it, and add a drain plug. That’s too much effort to keep going through every couple of hundred hours just for an oil change. Alternatively, I would look into the possibility of just pumping out the old fluid through the fill hole with a 12 volt fluid pump. Otherwise, nice work! It’s good to see someone taking care of his tractor! They sure don’t give them away when you need a new one!
That is an option......
Two other magnets and a filter just saying if you tear it down that far might as well clean the filter or replace it and clean the other two magnets
👍
I like the way they make those so it's almost impossible for the regular owner to change that fluid. Thankfully I'm a mechanic and do things myself. Most people don't ever change their trans mission fluid for the life of their mower. Too bad.
good video, I have a John deere 110, with 425 hours, I have never serviced the differential, it sounds very dry, I think it needs an urgent oil change.
The noise you hear is the hydraulic pump. (Normal). It wouldn't hurt to change the oil when you have time on your hands........ Don't overfill it. 22-25mm top edge.
Thanks for the video. The manual said I had to change the transmission fluid but does not show how. Is the process the same for x350?
It’s totally different. Drain plug at the Bottom. Side oil filter. Filler cap in the back .
Do you think you could use an evacuator and pump it out instead of taking it out and apart.. suck the fluid out vs dropping rear end
Could be done, but it would be hard to check the oil level. 22-25mm from the top edge.
I'm looking at possibly buying a used john deere x350 from my dealer. Looks,runs,and drives great. Its got 296 hours on it and has the k46 transmission. Of course I have no way of knowing how it was used and possibly abused,but it looks to of been garage kept. They're asking $2900 for it,but they also have an x580 which has the serviceable k72 transmission. It's the same year and condition, but has 500 hours on it. They're asking $3999 for it. I do mow some hills that my current ltx1040 cub cadet struggles with. If it were you,would you buy a small newer mower,the 300 hour x300,or the x580 with 500 hours on it? As long as the engine and tranny are sound I dont mind replacing belts,spindles,and switches. I'm pretty mechanical, just thrifty. I mow about an acre and a half a week
Bigger the tractor the better, lol. Offer them $3750, $3800. Tell them you want the oil changed in the transmission .
A X580 here in Canada are over $6000us.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thanks,I'll tryin talk to em more about it.
Man great video you make it look like second nature must have did a lot!
Thank you for the great video.... I’m going to replace the drive belt and rear end fluid.... the tractor I’m working on has a lot of play in the steering.... do you have a video for that issue...???
Yes I do have a video on this. Search for “ How to fix your loose steering on a John Deere Lawn Tractor Mower D110, L, La, D & E 100 Series “.
Good mechanic. Hard to do that and film too without jerkin that camera around. Bravo man.
Thank you very much for the time producing this video, well done and lot's of good educational information! Seems this is a lot of labor for a simple drain/fill procedure. Is there an aftermarket and/or new version of the oil pan with a drain plug or would removing the bottom of the transmission pan to drain then fluid, reinstall pan with new gasket, then refill the transmission as an other option to avoid the labor and time to remove the transmission axle?
There is a drain kit available for it. “Taryl Fixes All “ did a video on it.
The transmission still had to come out.
i cant tell what hydro fluid i need for my john deere 190C 25hp? is there an amsoil product i can put in there i want the best of the best? thank you on the video i am going to take my trans out tomorrow and look at things
Don’t no about any other oil type but the K62 transmission takes Hy-Gard High Viscosity.
Great video! Are there any current production lawn tractors that do have a proper drain/fill plug? I hear Cub Cadet XT1 does, or did, but I am not sure.
That’s the only one that I know that has them. You have to lower to transmission down a couple of inches to fill it back up. You need a mirror to look at the oil level so you don’t over fill it.
Thank you. Having watched this I have no reluctance to tackle a fluid change. You did not omit a single step. Appreciated. I have a low hours JD 160 and since I mow straight up some very steep hills I expect my transaxle will benefit from a switch to full synthetic and regular changes. I have 40 hours on the tractor now. Should I do the first fluid change at 50 hours?
No.. Change it at 200hrs.. Remember the Oil Level after priming the Pump & motor should be down 22mm 25mm from the top edge of the filler cap.
Yes, change it at 50hrs per Tuff Torq website: www.tufftorq.com/tuff-torq-k46-oil-maintenance/
@@joshlasceski The JD 160 has a gear drive transmission (Peerless, if I remember correctly), not a Tuff-Torq. According to my dealer, there is no need to service it. I have about 1700 hrs on mine. As for the Tuff-Torq, it seems to me like a pretty poor design if you have to remove the transmission from the tractor just to change the oil!
Awesome video well done simple explanation no BS. THANKS FOR THE INFO!!!
Thanks for the positive comment.
Thanks so much for this great video. I don't think I have ever saw any one do as many replies as you have. My JD LA 145 is VERY SLOW going up hill. It has about 425 hours on it and the transmission oil has never been changed. There is also whining noise which may be coming from the tyranny...(not sure). Which oil, 5W50 or 20W50 do you recommend? I'm in Va. so the mower is used in, some what, colder temperatures. Thanks again!
Use 20W50. Your pump is probably getting weak. (Thicker oil should help)....
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic Thanks for the quick response!
I let my tenant use my JD LA120 and they reported it quick working. I'm 400 miles away and can only work on it in snippets. I replaced the lever arm from the PTO handle to make the blades function again but when I tried to move it there is no tarns action. Unit has 800 hours on it. I wondered if they had pushed or pulled it and broken the trans. The neutral rod was pushed in so trans was engaged. Don't know if that could break the trans. I pushed the neutral rod in and out a few times. No luck. The trans drive belt is still there. Mostly wanting to know if the unit was pushed or pulled hard in-gear can that break the trans.
TIA
Maybe they broke the drive belt. Have a look if the fan is Turing on top of the transmission. You will need someone on the tractor to engage the transmission.
You should be able to see the top of trans under the left side between the fenderdeck and back wheel. With the brake off, the belt should be tight.
Thanks I'll try that. The belt was really loose but I'm not sure the brake was on or off.@@WeekendHobbyMechanic
Can this apply to my John Deere e140 riding mower? It has started not to go up to go uphill after a while of mowing
Same transmission. Is it still under warranty?
Very nice. Hugh help. Your info regarding retaining bolt versus removing fan - priceless!😊
I am ready to drain tank. Getting it disassembled was quite doable. And my fins were SO FNG BAD. UGLY in there.
I am doing the belt as well. So appreciated.🎉🎉 5 stars....
👍
What are some symptoms of needing to change out this fluid?
I would recommend changIng the oil every 150-200hrs. If the tractor is slowing down going uphill I would use 5w50 Castrol oil.
I have to do this to my 140 I was just trying to find out how to do it thanks for sharing I appreciate it. I also subscribed to your channel. On my way out.
Thx...
How often do you need to change the oil on a lawn tractor
Every 200-250hrs for the diff. Once a year for the engine.
I have an LT-190 machine with 228 operating hours on it. What kind of oil should I put in the transmission, and how often should I change it?
Came with 10w-30 from factory but you can use 5w-50 castrol synthetic. If the trans is slipping a tad you can use 15w-50 mobil 1.
Thank you very much!@@WeekendHobbyMechanic
I have a tuff torq t40 should i use the original 10w30 that is calls for or somthing thicker i have a power problem after a year of use. I have changed all the pulleys and the drive belt on my JD and still nada as far as fixing.
Tuff call on that one. Ticker oil will help but it will slow it down a bit. Check the color of the oil. Dark means it’s not good. Filter could be dirty.
i am getting ready to strip one of these l130s down and what is the wire that runs to the rearend? i see yours has a wire hooked to it.. mine dont care to answer? thank you
The wire goes to the transmission reverse switch. It’s a safety device.
My tractors an L series. I broke the breather thinking it was the fill and my neutral selector. internals look different and the oil level is about 2 inches down. Not sure if I fill it to the lip if it will over pressure
The oil level should be 22mm - 25mm (7/8 - 1inch) down from the edge of the fill cap.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thank you sir. Tranny is pulled was just waiting for that info right there. Any suggestions on mending my broken breather?
@@devinglis3179 Degrease it and add a dab of silicone gasket maker, it will hold it just fine. Did this a few times. I redid this video with better camera angles: ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
I have a JD 190C with the tuff torq k62.
My question is it says it has two separate drain and fill points (one for the hydro stat the other for the trans axle) and I have to prime it as it does not self prime. But you just dumped yours over and filled back up. Am I missing something?
K62/K66 transmissions are a bit hard to prime after an oil change. Different transmissions. They trap air bubbles.
To prime these you have to leave the filler caps off the transmission. Jack up the tractor (use jack stands), run the tractor for a bit.
Then shut off the tractor, rotate the back wheels (by hand) back and forward. Top up your fluid levels. Then repeat the process again. Do this three or four times.
After you get some resistance in the back wheels, run the tractor for 30 secs (forward/backward). The wheels should start spinning. Top up your fluid levels again. Install the filler caps.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thank you so much. I subscribed.
How many hours on mower before you change fluid?
Change the oil every 200hrs.
My machine (D125) leaked a fair amount of transmission fluid while in the garage for the winter. Watched your video and dropped the rear axle. Mine appears to be leaking from around the other cap that is on top of the transmission, not the flat fill cap. I can't seem to figure out what this cap is called to order a replacement. Any idea?
The breather cap? It sits a little higher the fill cap? Oil won’t leak out from the top of the transmission just sitting idle. It will leak a bit if there’s a bit too much oil in the transmission. No biggie, it will stop.
Check to see if it’s leaking around the axles seals or the bottom pan gasket…. Also check the fill cap for crack in the rubber.
My L110 doesn't have the fan
I mean the Mfg. putting in a drain plug and fill plug might have saved us all a lot of hassle.
Thats why i will never sell my Craftsman GTs... they will run forever with proper maintenance (like changing the trans fluid since it only take 10 mins)
My LT2000 requires a process similar to this and takes 3+ hours.
Great video. I have oil coming out the left hub and a grinding noise. I guess a bad seal. Can it be saved?
Wiggle the shaft for side play. Bushing might be worn. Might need a new bushing and a seal.
If there's hardly no play, you might just need a new seal.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic Thanks for the video and suggestion.
@@darrellanderson6650 I redid this video. Check it out.
ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html
Was that a 'vette in the background?
Type. C6, 2005
My magnetic was just a magnetic. Circular, I wonder if it’s missing the holder like yours. Mine is d140
Yup, You’re missing the holder. No big deal.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic just completed the project. This video was very helpful. I went with Amsoil 20-50 hydrostatic fluid. D140 only has one magnetic with a slot built in on the tranny :)
Would this be the same procedure with the X380- K58? I only have 130 hours on the unit, just curious to do this in the next year or so. I only put roughly 50-70 hours per year, cutting 2 acres.
They’re different transmission. The X-380 is a commercial heavy duty mower. Last a long time.
Has a drain plug and a refill tank.
@hilljack6765 Thank you for the information. I currently only have 153 hrs. I just completed the valve adjustment this weekend with new gaskets and new tie rod ends. I will put this off until another year or 2 before I'm even in the 200+ hr range.
I broke my vent cap off and the shaft is still in the opening ... was going to suck it out....any suggestions ?
Clean for vent cap and transmission. Add a small amount of silicone and place the vent cap on top. Let it sit for a bit.
Remove the transmission and drain the fluid out of it. Check out this video
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUiVHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uIG9pbCBjaGFuZ2Ugam9obiBkZWVyZQ%3D%3D
above my pay grade ...it is on an X320..same cap though@@WeekendHobbyMechanic
I have a D130. Can this be done on the D130 also?
Exactly the same...
Your video still helping. Ty
Bought my l120 used last year with almost 700 hours on it. Did good for few months. But by the end of season it was sluggish going up hills. How often should the fluid be changed?
Every 200hrs.
I have a John Deere gt245. I sent it to you the repair shop to replace the transmission drive belt and when I got it back the transmission itself is leaking whether running or sitting. It seems like it's coming both out of the overflow bottle and from somewhere else. Thoughts?
If it’s coming out of the overflow bottle it’s probably air in system. You can suck a bit of oil out of the bottle and run the tractor for a while. Then check the oil level after.
I have a 2009 Jd la115 with 200 hours. Does mine need this? Mine is leaking fluid around left rear tire area. Won’t move at all.
Might be low on oil. Dump the old oil out. If the amount is less then 1 quart just top it up and keep on riding.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic it’s leaking around back left tire area. At least a quart has leaked out maybe more.
Probably the oil seal is leaking. Not a big deal to change. Part #MIU804267.
I redid this video. Check it out:.
m.ua-cam.com/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/v-deo.html&pp=ygUhSm9obiBkZWVyZSBvaWwgY2hhbmdlIHRyYW5taXNzaW9u
Yeah how much oil does it hold?
2.3 quarts or 2.3Litres
Very informative. But a question for yah. I have a 2015 CUB CADET XT2 LX46 with no manual. Would you know what transaxle normally comes with it? In not, how do I go to find out the easiest way? Thx much.
Tuff Torq Hydrostatic Trans . You can check the model number on the sticker in the back trans.
Model is a K46
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thx much.
I seen you used the JD fluid. If I wanted to change to Amsoil 5W50 do you think it would be a problem?
That would work.... (That’s the best oil)
Thank you. Great videos!!!
Just use Castrol, 20w50, use Castrol in everything, your vehicle will thank you
@@GatesRapes engine oil in the transmission???? HUH???
What about the filter?😊
Compressed air to clean it.
How much trans fluid does it take? Trying to order ahead of doing the job. Also, I'm thinking of synthetic 20w50 hydrostatic fluid as I don't use in winter. Anyone foresee issues with that?
That should be fine. 2.4 quarts or 2.2 litres
Job was a success but I seem to now have a leak from the transmission. It’s hard to pin point. What would cause a small leak?
Seems it’s my cap that’s leaking. It was fairly cracked when I took it off.
Did you overfill it? Suppose to be 7/8in -1in or 22-25mm from the top edge.
If you did overfill it, it will stop leaking in a bit.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I did overfill it! I realized that when I went to change the cap. I sucked some fluid out. Thanks again for all your help.
@@Livinlife2 👍
Would this be the same for X300?
Yes, Pretty dam close.
Can i use normal 32 hydraulick oil,,,or normal tractor motor oil 10 w 30,,,,,,,or what oil should use to fill ,,,,,..???
Tuff Torq suggests 10w30, 5w-50 oil, or Hy-Gard High Viscosity J20C . (Can be bought at a John Deere delivership). Check out this link: tufftorq.ordertree.com/media/promo/TuffTorq/OIL%20LIST%20V3.3.pdf