We SURELY appreciate all of your instruction on these videos as well as posting links to the materials. Absolutely fantastic channel!! Thanks for what you do!! Fellow Michigander 💪💪👍👍🍻🍻
Thanks good to see how the automotive trade does it. I faired racing sailboat bottoms with da, long board and hand. Hand up to 2000 wet before 3 coats of coal tar (bitumastic) barrier coats. Then the whole process again on the coal tar before VC17
I like wet sanding with a block. Redoing my 1995 Ford F-150 Eddie Bauer edition at the moment. Sanding with a block might take time and is tedious but to me it’s the only way to get it done right. Thanks for your videos which are filled with so much info on bodywork.
You're right about that - this Charger was wet block sanded with 400 - (entire car ) - before painting and I was really happy with it. ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html It's good to just take your time and make sure every inch of that car is right :)
I been looking at UA-cam videos on body work for 15 years Jerry is the best. How he explained in detail on all he’s videos that’s all you ever need to know. Now heres the Problem if you the person that’s looking at him will Apply his Wisdom knowledge to your mix of how you do your body work . He’s the only one here on UA-cam that’s Teaching , bad ass Jerry 😎👍 keep up the good work I been Practicing for 15 years lol it’s fun for me . I love seeing my work when I am done with my beetles. I get a 12 pack of beer late a night put on some music and just look at my work
Love to hear it Hobby AF - there really is nothing better than pulling out the finished job, washing and cleaning it up and sitting back and admiring the work done. I appreciate your support my friend and I'm glad you like the type of videos I put out - I hope to keep it up for as long as I can :)
@@LakesideAutobody hey I call it the way I see it . You can put this one in the refrigerator. The door's closed, the lights are out, the eggs are cooling, the butter's getting hard and the Jell-O is jiggling.”
I was always hesitant to do my own work, but your videos are really helpful. Doin pretty good for a newbie. Ol truck will look good in no time. Thanks so much
Great video Jerry I like to you my hand ✋️ with a block and a little soap and water the water helps to see if the panel is right thanks always for the great video you are my hero for this kind of work is really a art
amazing video, infinite thanks for your lessons. I am in the project of my first car, you know right and wrong and not giving up although my wife says that I am very demanding for my first time, but I know that it will be very good with the help of your videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless you
I am a big fan of hand sanding wet personally. Keeps the dust under control and reduces heat from friction. Plus I like the exercise. Right now im prepping one panel a time on this Integra and goal is to paint in the fall when its in the low 70s and almost no humidity. Got a waterproof cover till then to keep it fresh haha. Thanks for the videos.
Building a kit car with alot of fiberglass, I started to find wet sandpaper in the grits I needed. I even found out a neat one , harbor freight Hercules 80 grit paper (it's blue) works with wet sanding and the package doesn't even say it. I said wth, let's see if it crumbles off when I wet the paper and it didn't. Anyways ,I've been able to keep alot more dust down even with the sawzall because I'll spray water from a bottle at it. Springtime ,I'll open the shop and me and my helper will blow it all out with some backpack blowers 😂
Is the Tremclad rust paint Primer any good to use ? It's oil base and can be thinned for spraying. I'm doing new fender patch panels on a truck box. There are pitted rust spots in areas I cleaned up with wire wheel and painted over with POR15 STOP RUST and will also use it on the back side of the fenders.
I red up on it a bit and I can't see why it wouldn't work just fine. I don't mine Rustoleum products at all - they work real well for rusted machinery, frames, body parts, etc :)
Never heard of that Eagle dry sanding system. What's different? Is the paper sharper, more porous? I have a Jimmy almost completely in primer right now, but think i'm gonna wetsand 600 grit for my final sand. Not going single stage or I would quit at 400. Got some high solids clear and looking for as smooth a finish as I can muster. Even going to use(try) basecoat activator as it claims to offer advantages if added to the base coat? Guess i'll see....
The Eagle dry sanding system claims to cut faster because the paper flexes - is almost like material, doesn't clog, etc. Here are some of the advantages according to the company if you are interested - Fast and uniform coverage, leaves no un-sanded areas Extremely shallow scratch pattern, safe from "over-sanding" Flexible contact, ideal for concave and convex areas Efficiently removes wax, incrustations, dirt and dust Time saving of 50% or more thus greatly improves productivity
My painter used a d-a on hail damage I spent hours on. Didn't block it at all. Came out like s$%t. Who is to blame?? Me! Shame, he knows better. We have been doing this a long time together. It's always someone else.SMH. thanks for the update, Sir.
No you're just sanding out any orange peel in the primer, small imperfections, and if you prefer, you can use a block just to keep everything nice and straight. Just making the surface as perfect as possible. You can seal with what ever sealer you like - then paint. Here's a job done with sealer - ua-cam.com/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody I looked that up, the SG1 is not an epoxy? Do you generally use epoxies? I assume the sealer coat doesn't need to be sanded because it is so thin? Sry, many questions, lol.
@@slayer7976 No - I don't use epoxies usually. I do use epoxy primer on aluminum though just because it's "recommended". A sealer doesn't need to be sanded - it can be treated really as a first coat of paint. Keep asking ?s - no problem - Jerry
great video, that rubber sanding block breaks when my fat fingers pry it open, the orange and blue big box stores have a 3m for a dollar or two more and havent broke one yet
It's common today to paint over anything from 240-320 using a DA sander. If sanding by hand (wet or dry) common grits are anything from 320-400 - 600 is very fine but you'll hear of guys using it. I usually paint over 240 using the DA, 400 if sanding by hand, or scuffing with the red pad. Basically, you'll be fine using 240 on your DA and 400 if you sand by hand wet or dry. I have painted many times over 220 DA scratches too w/o issues. Here's a sand paper guide if interested - ua-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/v-deo.html
That's all they used in the 50's 60's 70's 80's and the Autorama was filled with perfectly straight cars and hot rods. Believe it or not with the right touch (pressure) the paper stays straight and your fingers will never make marks. Much faster too!
We SURELY appreciate all of your instruction on these videos as well as posting links to the materials. Absolutely fantastic channel!! Thanks for what you do!! Fellow Michigander 💪💪👍👍🍻🍻
I appreciate the support Doug - glad you enjoy and get something from the videos. You're very welcome. Are you north or south of Flint? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody, Charlotte, just south of Lansing
@@dwreed63 Sounds like a nice part of Michigan. We're up in Saint Helen :)
Another great video Jerry...you keep me motivated and ready to get some work done!
That's good to hear - looks like you have a ton of work there my friend. Have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I’ve been getting a good amount of work done…enjoy your weekend my friend!
@@UndergroundPaintKing😊✌
Clear and concise. Helpful and accurate as ever. Great demo.
Thanks Nics - I appreciate your input and comments - have a good week :)
Another wonderfully instructive video!!! Many, many thanks!
Thanks Bob - just got your email - have a great weekend my friend ✌
Thanks good to see how the automotive trade does it.
I faired racing sailboat bottoms with da, long board and hand.
Hand up to 2000 wet before 3 coats of coal tar (bitumastic) barrier coats. Then the whole process again on the coal tar before VC17
Thanks for another super helpful video. I really appreciate your content.
Thanks for the support Steve - eventually I'll cover everything hopefully. Feel free to ask any ?s you have my friend and have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks very much. Have a great weekend too.
Nice to see you again jery great video as always thank you
Hey Husky - great to hear from you my friend. You're welcome - I hope everything is going well for you :)
I like wet sanding with a block. Redoing my 1995 Ford F-150 Eddie Bauer edition at the moment. Sanding with a block might take time and is tedious but to me it’s the only way to get it done right. Thanks for your videos which are filled with so much info on bodywork.
You're right about that - this Charger was wet block sanded with 400 - (entire car ) - before painting and I was really happy with it. ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html It's good to just take your time and make sure every inch of that car is right :)
Always look forward to your Friday evening videos Jerry. Thanks for the effort! Randy
You're welcome Randy. I enjoy making them my friend - hope to keep it going :)
I been looking at UA-cam videos on body work for 15 years Jerry is the best. How he explained in detail on all he’s videos that’s all you ever need to know. Now heres the Problem if you the person that’s looking at him will Apply his Wisdom knowledge to your mix of how you do your body work . He’s the only one here on UA-cam that’s Teaching , bad ass Jerry 😎👍 keep up the good work I been Practicing for 15 years lol it’s fun for me . I love seeing my work when I am done with my beetles. I get a 12 pack of beer late a night put on some music and just look at my work
Love to hear it Hobby AF - there really is nothing better than pulling out the finished job, washing and cleaning it up and sitting back and admiring the work done. I appreciate your support my friend and I'm glad you like the type of videos I put out - I hope to keep it up for as long as I can :)
@@LakesideAutobody hey I call it the way I see it . You can put this one in the refrigerator. The door's closed, the lights are out, the eggs are cooling, the butter's getting hard and the Jell-O is jiggling.”
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 👍✌🛠
I was always hesitant to do my own work, but your videos are really helpful. Doin pretty good for a newbie. Ol truck will look good in no time. Thanks so much
You're welcome - hope everything works out for you and your having a good time doing it yourself - have a good weekend Les :)
Great video Jerry I like to you my hand ✋️ with a block and a little soap and water the water helps to see if the panel is right thanks always for the great video you are my hero for this kind of work is really a art
I appreciate your support Luis - always a pleasure to hear from you my friend. Have a good weekend 😊✌
Nice tutorial, very helpfull.
Another great video Jerry. Thank you so much.
Glad you enjoyed it Bluesman - you'll have to send me a few pictures of the progress on your car :)
amazing video, infinite thanks for your lessons. I am in the project of my first car, you know right and wrong and not giving up although my wife says that I am very demanding for my first time, but I know that it will be very good with the help of your videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless you
God bless you to my friend. Good luck on your project and if you have any ?s feel free to ask - hard or simple :)
I am a big fan of hand sanding wet personally. Keeps the dust under control and reduces heat from friction. Plus I like the exercise. Right now im prepping one panel a time on this Integra and goal is to paint in the fall when its in the low 70s and almost no humidity. Got a waterproof cover till then to keep it fresh haha. Thanks for the videos.
The exercise is incredible really. Wet sanding an entire cars can trim up those arms pretty quick :)
Building a kit car with alot of fiberglass, I started to find wet sandpaper in the grits I needed.
I even found out a neat one , harbor freight Hercules 80 grit paper (it's blue) works with wet sanding and the package doesn't even say it.
I said wth, let's see if it crumbles off when I wet the paper and it didn't.
Anyways ,I've been able to keep alot more dust down even with the sawzall because I'll spray water from a bottle at it.
Springtime ,I'll open the shop and me and my helper will blow it all out with some backpack blowers 😂
Thank you for the information,nice job.
You're welcome Tom - thanks for watching :)
Another Great video
Glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend Brad - thanks :)
I simply use a small brush to unclog the sandpaper when hand sanding
Great vid Jerry! Outstanding info!
Thanks! 👍 - great to hear from you SD - maybe we'll get together for a few this summer my friend :)
👍🏻Thanks again for some good 101 tips!
You're welcome Michael - have a great weekend my friend - always a pleasure hearing from you :)
Awesome videos.
Thanks GS 😊
Thanks for the tips!
You're welcome Glynn - thanks for watching :)
Is the Tremclad rust paint Primer any good to use ? It's oil base and can be thinned for spraying. I'm doing new fender patch panels on a truck box. There are pitted rust spots in areas I cleaned up with wire wheel and painted over with POR15 STOP RUST and will also use it on the back side of the fenders.
I red up on it a bit and I can't see why it wouldn't work just fine. I don't mine Rustoleum products at all - they work real well for rusted machinery, frames, body parts, etc :)
Very nice system Jerry. Great video!. I like wet sanding but it is messy
Wet sanding works well for sure - cuts really fast :)
Hey Jerry I think I have that same red oxide block sander. Has to be 45 years old. More comfortable that the newer ones.
You're right it's pretty old and unfortunately it's not holding on to the paper that well any more. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Nice example. What primer are you working on ? Thanks!
Probably auto body master lacquer
Check the description jerry usually lists items used in videos.
Third! Love your videos! Thank You 🙏
You are so welcome Deadbuck - glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too!
I wet sand in the summer and dry sand in the winter
Never heard of that Eagle dry sanding system. What's different? Is the paper sharper, more porous? I have a Jimmy almost completely in primer right now, but think i'm gonna wetsand 600 grit for my final sand. Not going single stage or I would quit at 400. Got some high solids clear and looking for as smooth a finish as I can muster. Even going to use(try) basecoat activator as it claims to offer advantages if added to the base coat? Guess i'll see....
The Eagle dry sanding system claims to cut faster because the paper flexes - is almost like material, doesn't clog, etc. Here are some of the advantages according to the company if you are interested -
Fast and uniform coverage, leaves no un-sanded areas
Extremely shallow scratch pattern, safe from "over-sanding"
Flexible contact, ideal for concave and convex areas
Efficiently removes wax, incrustations, dirt and dust
Time saving of 50% or more thus greatly improves productivity
@@LakesideAutobody well, they make it sound pretty good👍
nice work smoke cigrits dudes
Will do 😊✌
@@LakesideAutobody 🍻
Lol 1puglife😂
My painter used a d-a on hail damage I spent hours on. Didn't block it at all. Came out like s$%t. Who is to blame?? Me! Shame, he knows better. We have been doing this a long time together. It's always someone else.SMH. thanks for the update, Sir.
You're welcome - thanks for your input Bill - you're right DA's really should not be used for blocking unless you want it out fast :)
So you don't necessarily block sand out the final coat? Do you seal with epoxy after this?
No you're just sanding out any orange peel in the primer, small imperfections, and if you prefer, you can use a block just to keep everything nice and straight. Just making the surface as perfect as possible. You can seal with what ever sealer you like - then paint. Here's a job done with sealer - ua-cam.com/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody I looked that up, the SG1 is not an epoxy? Do you generally use epoxies? I assume the sealer coat doesn't need to be sanded because it is so thin? Sry, many questions, lol.
@@slayer7976 No - I don't use epoxies usually. I do use epoxy primer on aluminum though just because it's "recommended". A sealer doesn't need to be sanded - it can be treated really as a first coat of paint. Keep asking ?s - no problem - Jerry
great video, that rubber sanding block breaks when my fat fingers pry it open, the orange and blue big box stores have a 3m for a dollar or two more and havent broke one yet
Great info - I've ran into that a time or two. Thanks for that :)
How far up in grit do you go before paint?
It's common today to paint over anything from 240-320 using a DA sander. If sanding by hand (wet or dry) common grits are anything from 320-400 - 600 is very fine but you'll hear of guys using it. I usually paint over 240 using the DA, 400 if sanding by hand, or scuffing with the red pad. Basically, you'll be fine using 240 on your DA and 400 if you sand by hand wet or dry. I have painted many times over 220 DA scratches too w/o issues. Here's a sand paper guide if interested - ua-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome thank you.
😎🖖👌✌👍😁
👍🏻
😊✌
Jerry sent you pictures
OK :) ...... I went and checked but did not see any. Email is: schoolvideolibrary@gmail.com
never use your hand !
That's all they used in the 50's 60's 70's 80's and the Autorama was filled with perfectly straight cars and hot rods. Believe it or not with the right touch (pressure) the paper stays straight and your fingers will never make marks. Much faster too!