What's that little dial on your sander for?
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- Опубліковано 10 чер 2024
- How to properly use the variable speed dial on your electric sander
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I think what dewalt is saying is its cheaper to use the same motor and have it run at its max speed than it is to use a different motor or include circuitry to slow the sander.
Only on your videos will I admit that I am 44, with no career skills. My goal is to move back out to where my future wife, and my child are at, and enroll into a trade school. I don't know that woodworking is what I will go into, but I am endlessly fascinated by handy work. I find your videos to be valuable beyond measure. I hope I will figure out what will make enough money to support my family in the way they deserve, but until then, I'll be watching your videos and learning more and more.
Before I subscribed I thought I had a basic knowledge of wood working. However, after each
one of your videos I walk away very humble. You teach without
putting us down. A very rare attribute among teachers.
I cannot thank you enough!
Dude if most of your teachers are putting you down something's up
You mean to say that it's normal of teachers to put you down? lol
I use lower speeds on my sanding machines for old paint layers or other materials that tend to “melt” with the heat of sanding and clog up the sandpaper. Sometimes I lower the speed to have more control on small ridges or near glass windows.
Man oh man… it always leaves me baffled at the attention to detail on all things woodworking. I really think there should be a stumpy academy!
Sign me up!
Concur
Knowing all of this will not make you a good sander. Sanding a shit ton will though. Gotta play wit it
There is a Stumpy Academy , you're watching it.
Great video. I've found that pushing to hard can also melt the hook and loop pad on the sander and make the sand paper no longer attach properly.
That pigtail demonstration is genius!
You're like the Alton Brown of woodworking. I love your info and your vibe. Great video
Most people don’t know this, but when you use an orbital sander below the equator, it rotates counterclockwise.
AND the Grain of the Wood is upside down!
Saw blades too
I’m wondering if you’re joking.
If you reverse polarity
And your arms get tired since most sanding is overhead.
Another gem. Paired with the general sanding video this is an absolute must-watch for all beginning wood workers and DIYrs. Just an outstanding contribution to the UA-cam community.
Wow, you are so good at explaining things in a way that I really follow. Thanks for creating and sharing!
What an absolutely fantastic and informative video. I didn't even know my orbital sander had a variable speed and how to even use it properly, but now I do.Great job!
Your instruction is ALWAYS valuable and welcome. And the discussions you incite are worth a dozen online “shop classes.” Thank you all for sharing your thoughts. THIS is what good teaching/education looks like!
Thanks, could not work it out, and I always thought the dial was for the internal radio
I am old enough to have worked with old cast aluminum encased, single speed, corded tools with finger-gym «clack» switches, and painted in the fanciest of colors. I still have the old full metal B&D drill of my dad - also single speed
And here I thought I was the only one old enough to remember and have a single speed tool. My original hangs on the wall as a momentous momentum to my youthful ways and how far technology has taken me and to remind me of the things I have forgotten. I have some hand tools that are so old they still say American Made.
Thanks James-that clears up a few important basics in a straight forward way.
Thank you for a well informed video.
It is irritating to see so many videos out there giving bad advice on sanding.
Yes, pigtails are simply the visible pattern of your sander. They are there no matter how you sand.
If you sand to a high grit level then the pigtails are so fine you just aren't noticing them - but they are there - it is the sander's pattern.
Badly visibly pigtails can be caused (as stated) debris under the pad (including corning from a finish or resin) or moving too fast (stretching your sander's pattern out - whatever the speed, moving to fast for that speed)... and bad sandpaper.
Cheap paper will not have the same quality control as better paper and so you may have larger grits contaminating the mix.
In any case (something not mentioned), why are people not sanding by hand for the final pass (unless you have a nifty inline sander)?
We always finish with a hand sanding (we are only sanding to 180 or 220 normally).
My routine will usually be to power sand to one grit higher than I want (so say 220). I will then drop back to 180 grit to do a quick hand sanding. This reduces the amount of time required to hand sand as you are not having to sand out the deeper marks of the previous sanding - you are sanding deeper marks... and removes ALL pigtails.
For those who do not hand sand - I recommend doing a test board in your usual routine, and then do another board as described with a hand sanding to finish. Apply a stain (yes professionals are using stain ALL the time - another youtuber attempted to claim we don't), let dry, and topcoat. I suspect you will see a clearer more pleasing result in the hand sanded test board.
I leave the sander at a highest speed unless I'm using a beast to shape wood and then I might bring it down to make it more controlled.
I will turn it down when doing a wet sanding on finishes, reduces heat and so reduces corning... also do not want it to aggressive as I do not want to sand too fast and cut through.
Great info as always! This is type of info for understanding something vs just knowing how to do something. Not just this video but pretty much all of them. Thank you!
Another informative, well explained, and well edited video lesson. Thanks for all the valuable information you impart and keep 'em coming.
I love your videos. I don't even own any woodworking tools. The only experience I have with woodworking is in high school I built a dry sink. I do hope to have a workshop someday, and your videos have taught me so much. Thanks for the great content!
Good move, Keith. I hope it comes together for you.
I enjoyed woodwork classes at school, then went and did other things. Now I'm retired I'm slowly assembling a workshop (one wall and a door to go).
These are some of the most informative and motivating clips around. Once I have a workshop to practice in, I'll do some formal classes as well.
Thanks James, I learn something new every episode.
An excellent video that greatly increased my understanding of how to properly operate a random orbital sander.
I learn something new every time I get an alert for a new post. Thank you!!
I have to admit, I'm one that always dialed in around the 4 because I figured middle was good all around for most sanding tasks. Thanks for the video. Sander going to 6 today and staying there from now on.
Super comprehensive and informative, I love your videos and your knowledge is incredible, thank you for sharing it!
Stumpy Nubs with a side of Johnny Black, a great way to finish off the day! Thanks brother, my very best to you and yours!
Many thanks for sharing all your tips, ideas and experiences --- good channel with no BS or annoying bloody music :)
Hey James, interesting video. I have a single-speed random orbit sander and I've never felt I needed it to go slower. I just wanted to point out that moving the sander at 50% less speed actually doubles the time it spends on each spot, not 50% longer. The rule is Change in Time (over each spot) = 1/Change in Speed, so if you want to spend 50% longer on each spot (3/2) you need to move one-third slower (2/3) .
Thanks James! The variable speed crapped out on my sander, leaving it struck at top speed. I thought this was disastrous, then used it as I was on site. I've never felt the need to replace it since.
"It was my understanding that there would be no math." Gerald Ford
@@fins9584 Chevy Chase
I came to the comments to write this too...
@@garyyardley7306 Chevy Chase playing Gerald Ford, yes.
James, this info is very much appreciated. I've wondered for a long time about that dial.
I really needed to hear this.
Once again, thank you for your priceless knowledge.
I love you man
Hats off to you Stumpy, you ALWAYS deliver solid content and a Red Wings tumbler. Follower in Detroit.
You are a Suttle, powerful communicator....well done!
Thank you
just jim
The way you explain things is so easy to understand. I myself am not really much of a sanding guy. I would rather take a plane or scraper to smoothen my freshly machined wood, but sometimes sanding is unavoidable. I always wondered why you would slow down the sanding machine, now I know 👍
Whoa, you're right! That little dial changes the speed of the sander! But now that I found it, I'm gonna let it at 6. A bit more seriously, thanks lots for taking the time to explain the details. I really dislike sanding (_really_ dislike the dust, which I can never seem to control). This video has taught me just what I need to know so I can sand and get the best results in the least time. Thanks!!!
Really fantastic tips, James! Thanks!!! 😃
I'm definitely going to use them!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
One thing I have found using an RO sander to sand small items like box lids. This can cause the edges to sand faster leading to domed lids. The outer edge of the disk moves faster than the middle. For every revolution the outer edge has further to travel to complete a single rotation. This can give some interesting features to a project
I'm a crazy person that enjoys sanding.... I used to hate it but then just learned that there's no other spot on any job that I don't need to think.
And when you stop thinking completely I learned that is meditation and meditation has incredible power
Get into Hinduism
Great video I saw you're others on sanding and whenever I see other UA-camrs moving back and forth like they're in a curling match I think of your videos and laugh.
Definitely nerding out on sanding, way out in the weeds. 😆👍
Great tutorial James, thanks for sharing it.
I used to hate sanding until I started using dust collection.
This has been bothering me for so long. Thank you for the explanation.
What an excellent tutorial - thank you
As usual very good information. It also looks like your hand has healed well.
Thank you for this video.....always wondered about this. Really enjoy all your videos.
Terrific video, well made and clearly explained - even for those of us who think we knew everything. ;)
This is the level of detail and explanations that I like and that few (if any) other channels do.
I think though the actual reason for the non variable DW sander is at full speed is because both variants uses the same motor, and the speed selector is just a variable resistor. Put the speed selector on the highest number and there is no extra resistance on the circuit and it gets the same full speed as the other version. Put the speed selector on a lower number and it increases the resistance slowing the motor down. Same as the volume nob on a stereo amplifier.
So there is probably less though put into what a good speed is and more about economies of scale ;)
I LOVE yr videos more than any other wood crafter
Another well presented video. Thank you.
Thanks, just saved me a few bucks when shopping for a new sander!
Thanks for sharing with us James, very helpful info. Fred.
One speed to rule them all. Hey ! I think he called me a tool. Thank you for the information, always learn something new here.
I have never thought of a sander in that way. Good informative video
Wonderful information, thank you for sharing this with us today from Henrico County Virginia
A subject I could never work out,your vid is great
Thank you. I have learned a lot from this video.
It also should be noted that on regular, common sanders, the higher the speed, the easier they are to control because of the increased stability. Due to the mechanism of the random rotation, lower speeds can cause the sander to jerk around and be very difficult to control.
This is so true. First time I tried a Rotex sander, I thought it was crap because it was so hard to control and I was fighting it the whole way. Turned out it was just on the lowest speed setting.
Hi everyone! If you are having troubles with a RO-sander jerking, here are a few things that can also be the problem besides speed settings:
The sole isn't flat,
The material has bumps in it,
Or the sole isn't perpendicular to the material.
Some machines have a bad balance. Check out Stubby's video on random orbit sanders, he is better at explaining than I am.
Thanks James for the deep dive on this topic. I like my Dewalt corded sander & always keep it set at 6. I also find that the two-handed sanding method is the most comfortable with this sander: one hand on the “neck” of the sander (not on the top), and the other hand on the dust extractor hose. I do wish that Dewalt would change the location of the variable speed dial. I find that I frequently, inadvertently, move the variable speed dial. Would I enjoy sanding more if I had “Team Green’s” ETS EC 125 or 150? Sure. Gotta sell a lot more workbenches to afford one.
Interesting & informative video. When discussing sanders with variable speed controls you seem to have assumed that everyone just uses these type of sanders on relatively long pieces of unfinished wood. When sanding off some fillers, materials & sanding over old painted surfaces high orbit speeds tend to melt what is being sanded which clogs up the sanding disk.
Physically moving the sander faster across a piece of material isn't always a realist option to control the number of orbits taking place in a given area. With the technology available today the user / consumer should be able to choose the OPM, with a speed control, that is best suited for their particular material or task. Not everyone has a wall full of specialty tools available to do a particular job better than a standard RO sander. I wish this message would get to the manufacturers.
I'd bet the real reason that so many manufactures stopped building RO sanders without a speed control function is because it was easier & cheaper to make & not because some pseudo-scientific research on what speed the "average" consumer uses or needs to use.
You answered so many questions I had about my sander 😆
I didn't know that. Now I do. Thanks James.👍👍
Another great class at Stumpy School.
Excessive suction from the extractor can pull the sander down giving a similar effect as too much hand pressure will.
Thank you James! I´ve been watching your videos for years and since you advanced to a larger shop with more "fancy" tools the videos have been a little less relevant to my needs. I get why you want to do that and so on and I am happy for your success.
These type of videos with tips and education however brings me back since they a relevant to all of us, regardless of shopsize or experience.
Hope you keep up with theese konds of videos as well. Best Regards from the land of "Sjöbergs" (Sweden)
Our videos never changed. We have been making this type of tip/tutorial video all along. Just because I have some fancy tools doesn't meant that's what most of our videos are about.
Correction at 3:08 if you moved the tool at 50% of the speed across the wood, that would actually be double the abrasion.
mafs
you're right!
Thank you... I might sleep well tonight. Gonna have to re-watch the vid cause that distracted me all along. Cheers
I caught that too, but we still love stumpy.
While this is true that if you go 50% the speed you double to sanding, what he said was going 50% slower which is meaningless without a comparison. Regardless I think we all understood his intent. Go slower and you sand more per inch.
Another great tutorial
I often use the lowest speed when I'm rounding of corners, since I'm to lazy to set up my router. It gives you a lot more control when removing the corner.
Yeah, I use a low speed when sending the edge of plywood, especially if it is curved, it slows everything down and makes the sander more controllable.
Thanks - I needed that :-) Never liked sanding, but then I had no idea how to use a sander to good effect.
Great job explaining a topic I thought everyone already understood. Always full speed, just enough grip so it doesn't get away. I travel a touch faster though.
As I think you hinted, there is also the type of wood to consider. I guess the most important thing Robson pay attention to the result you are achieving. Adjust feed rate as appropriate. Thanks for the thought provoking presentation.
Thank you my dude.
thanks, always informative
Love your work 👍
Thanks for answering a question I was too ashamed to ask.
Interesting information
such a good video
In addition.. if you hand rotate counterclockwise at 12,000 rpm your random orbital sander becomes a block sander. This saves much needed space in my shop. 🙂
I have a 6" polisher/sander that seems to give a great result on larger surfaces, I always tend to keep the speed setting high. I'm not sure if the "through" is larger than normal being a polisher but it seems to work great. I have an 6" Air RO sander that can also double as a polisher, seems great at both but consumes lots of air but is much nicer to use.
It acn be noted that one reason not mentioned for a slow sander would be if you are using it for stripping paint. Slower orbital speeds means less heat which means more efficient cutting and less smearing/melting when removing an old finish.
Thank you.
Thanks! My sanding sucks, but now I see how to fix it.
Just learned so much in this short video
I do epoxy floors for a living. It is a great luxury to have variable speed sanders and grinders. Controlling first is a must
Great stuff - I'd be interested in a video covering speed etc for a portable belt sander.
What a great unthought if topic! That's why your my boy blue
I love sanding. When someone else is doing it.
Informative
Thanks so much!!
Great info!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I cheaped out and got the single speed Dewalt. In the super rare times I want less speed, I just press super light on it, or switch to a finer paper. No regrets.
My dad always said... "If you need to press down excessively, use a coarser grit and work your way up to a finer one. Let the machine do the work."
in cabinet industry speed settings are used in finish sanding. while some things are done by hand, as you suggested, large flat surfaces are done with ro. the speed settings are important because production finishes can be rushed and by changing the speed you are not just changing the rpm of the machine, you are changing the velocity of the orbit as well. velocity and friction are proportional at low speeds. less gumming of finishes that are not fully tacked or high in pigment content. it really is an important feature for working quickly in production finishing. even pneumatic ro sanders are variable speed.
Exactly... I have ro discs up to 25,000 grit, you need low speeds for these. Anything over 800 grit shouldn't be on higher speeds, IMO
In cabinet industry flat surfaces are done with a dual action sander(DA), not a RO(random orbit)
Thanks for the recommendation of ISOtunes and the 20% discount. They are great for the shop and cutting my 3 acer lawn. I watch every episode.
I had no idea what pigtails were and what caused them, what I did know was I had those scratch patterns in some of my projects. Invaluable lesson for me right here!
are you going thru the papers too quick? i.e. missing grits. i do a lot of work starting with rough timber and start at 40 on some stuff. then 60, 80, 120, 180, 220 maybe. if you miss one out you end up with more marks.
@@kanedNunable nah Im pretty vigilant to go up through the grades, Im fairly certain its my technique and or cheap pads retaining particles etc
I like the Bosh 6in. Its has a random orbit and rotary mode for aggressive sanding. Great for very rough wood and polishing.
Not entirely related but these Bosch sanders are incredible sanders for working on boats with fairing compound, epoxy resins, and fiberglass. I like pairing them with Abranet mesh pads.
Thanks
Appreciate it.
I've made a few wooden boats and paddleboards and during the process I'll need to sand epoxied surfaces. Just controlling the speed of movement is going to be a disaster. Sanding creates heat in the workpiece and if that workpiece is an epoxied surface the heat is going to start melting the epoxy which is not good. It'll also clog up sanding discs as well. Controlling the speed on the sander - I use the slowest speed - is an absolute must do. Oh, and Mirka Abranet sanding discs are the dogs doo dahs! This comment is not sponsored by Mirka :-))
I hand sand in the direction of the grain, my arms don't need a lever and my finished product looks 👌