I have used all your finishing techniques, hand blocked my car 7 times, sprayed sealer , base and clear, hand cut the clear with the block using 1000, 1500, 2000 and then 3000. Machine polish 2 times with compound and the 2 times with swirl remover and machine polish, your lessons are right on, my car is razor straight, the finish is a super high gloss and totally flat, the car came out absolutely gorgeous, I have won two car shows, it is a ton of work but now it was totally worth it, all done in my home garage, you rock, can't thank you enough for the lessons, this bitch is razor straight and awesome.
I love these stories. I’ve been learning the hard way in my garage. Turns out pitch black is one of the hardest to get right. It’ll look straight and true until the base coat goes on. The the mistakes and missed issues show up. Not to mention learning about what lies beneath and how it might react to what you lay on top. I took that damned hood down to bare metal so many times I couldn’t really get it perfect again because of all of the chemical and sanding effect on the sheet metal. My Dodge Magnum has an aluminum hood that weights like 21 pounds. Aluminum moves around so much it’s incredibly frustrating. I’m watching this for the fourth time because I’m so frustrated I almost ordered fiberglass replacement . But I did not and chose to persevere. But pitch black, for example Mercedes 040, is one of their oldest codes, and it has two ingredients, the resin and the pigment . And there are so many shades and types of black. My wife’s Hyundai is also black, but it’s really Ash Black Mica. It’s ashy black. Much, much lighter than the 040. But when black is done right, it’s the greatest non-color of all. Menacing and beautiful. Nasty and classy. Powerful and subdued. My Brilliant Black Metallic has like four colors of mica flake in it, and I think ten or so total ingredients. That equals $$$! I’ve got to get this thing right before painting again.
I appreciate you explaining stuff like you do and sharing tips and tricks that you by no means have to....unlike some of these fucking nimrods in the comments. I do appreciate guys that say they have done it for years and still learn new stuff....that is someone truly taking pride in their craft. I learned a long time ago that you never stop learning....people don't always realize what a blessing it is to get this kind of info that took someone years to perfect ...and its free without months of schooling. Thanks for what you do.
Learn something new everyday, this industry has changed techniques and products over they years sometimes hard to keep up but information offered in videos like this are great free educational tools. Thanks
I appreciate the simplicity and 'oversharing' of these videos. Especially providing the products you use, as there are an insane number of options for novices to weed through.
Dude, I've been at this work for 25 years+ and always learning with each job. The way you calmly talk through steps and product without yelling and screaming and getting excited and ahead of yourself like other video tutorials on UA-cam,is a breath of fresh air. Fully 100% would trust you and your team to work on my own personal vehicle for a build. Awesome teaching. Much respect all the way from little old New Zealand 🤘🤘🤘👍👍👍
So much good advice, especially for us newbies. I tell myself I'll never paint another car because of the intense labor and patience needed , then I see the oem paint jobs and cost of a good decent paint job and say " here we go again". Keep up the great videos.
I'm 65 years old I built so many cards I lost count in the 80s it costs so much to build a car now that's going to sit in your garage most of it's life I still use single stage paint on my cars might not be perfect but I drive mine everyday
I just applied my second coat of 2K primer but do not own a long blocking tool. Is that something I can buy at a local paint shop if not I'd have to order one which could take a few days to receive. What are my options at this point. I'm working on the trunk of a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP bright red
hey brother I'm digging the videos, iv owned my own shop for almost 10 years and it is nice seeing things done the way they are supposed to. watching your videos is like taking a refresher course and getting rid of all the bad habits iv accumulated threw out my time in the industry. I just had to close my shop and move it to my home base I was really disappointed for a bit, but without the overhead iv been able to concentrate on quality and these videos are a reminder that people still do and appreciate it. Good job brother and thank you
I never feel like saying this or this way but damnit Sylvester, you left me wanting more!!! It is like we went to commercial and the clock ran out. Listen to me, I am not the type to watch epoxy dry nor get into a hurry, it’s just I was so caught up in the product, the tools, the method, it even crossed my mind to count the number of strokes on the block to be consistent and, and it stopped? 😢 That was a fast 17 minutes, I felt, well just keep going! I can’t believe I feel that. More. 😂
I’ve never had my paper clog with guide coat spray can. I use a flat lacquer. I let it dry then take the majority off with a da using 180. In my opinion it’s okay to use a flat disk da to take off the top layer as you still are left with plenty of visual guide coat to sand flat. It’s faster this way as well and instead of laboring for hours to get the process started. It basically jumps the routine into hyper drive and the job is done much quicker with same results. IMO. But yes these so called steps can be different for different people and shops. Nothing is concrete. It’s what works best for you. I think you talk about sanding epoxy primer? I’ve never done that. When applying epoxy it’s usually sprayed on to protect the metal even before body work is being done. If you work the surface down to metal more epoxy is needed. Then comes several coats of surface primer on top. Perhaps all these years I’ve been doing it wrong. Perhaps the workers who use this method are all wrong and you are the only one doing it the right way. Sanding down epoxy. Which is rough and very difficult to sand. It seems we differ in many aspects of body finishing. I guess there are always those who learn it a different way. As long as the body is like glass in the end I don’t care who’s method you use. Good job on getting these cars smoother than they ever were from the factory.
@@MrCbell57 Just remember Rick, there are different ways of doing everything. Some epoxy have a short or long open time. I read to make it right. Having VP2050 DTM epoxy based primer sealer is outside my allowance, but using a short stroke DA W/Interface pad keep lines sharp while braking the hard top layer. I will wipe down and spray my epoxy over bare metal break thru spots. I prefer the sealing part of a hard waterproof substrate before addressing scratches to pin holes. At least you are using your noodle and creating at 30-40+ year paint finish and for the, I salute you for caring! DK, Omaha.
Dude this was an awesome and very descriptive video ! Most of my questions were answered ! So glad to see someone who explains all the small details. Keep the vids coming brother !
So UPDATE!!! I just got my starter kit of Linear Blocking tools in today. GAME CHANGER for me! I am rebuilding a McLaren 570s that had every body panel damaged. The roof has been a real challenge to get right. It was close, but not perfect. It will be perfect now! Thank you!
You really are a great teacher and humble about it. I have always paid places to paint my restorations but I'm getting to where I want to do this on my own. Thank you for the great videos.
I bought a 1966 c10 going to start soon. I’ve been following your videos. My wife watched a couple with me and said “Oh my God this will take YOU thousands of hours”. This will be my first major restoration.
PPG have providing automotive paints and primers for the auto industry for 80yrs. Can't go wrong with that. I've binged on several vids. I'm hooked, hope to see some body restoration, qtr skins, rust repairs / I get it not much in Cali cars.
Thank you very much as a matter fact the 61 impala we will be doing quite a bit of metal work including rust repair quarter panel replacement custom-made firewall and floors the plan is to build a full custom car and show how to do the entire process for people at home 👍🏻 thanks for watching
I really appreciate you sharing your craft. There's a lot of channels that do a good job at showing how it's done and you can even tell they care, but you are a cut above the rest. After watching your videos i actually feel confident in starting to practice and get ready to give it a go.
I’m an English carpenter,seventy years old,and I have great respect for anyone who is passionate about their work,no matter what it is. Needless to say Travis ,I have this great respect for you . Your work is amazing and I say this as someone who also goes the extra mile in prep etc. just one thing puzzles me though . How on earth can you make a living putting this kind of time into a car, even a classic . I knew , even before I saw your first video , that automotive paint is time consuming and expensive, but your standard is off the scale. Is it that it is mostly hobbyists who go to these lengths , as they don’t count the time spent,or is the US just rammed with millionaires ? Even with a perfect ,flawless finished product like yours must be, the end cost of the car must far outweigh its actual cash value . Not forgetting also ,that the bodywork is only part of the job,and anyone demanding such perfection in paint,will surely require the same standard for all other aspects, eg engine ,interior trim etc . Please don’t take this as any sort of criticism……I’m just curious !!! Regards from England. Oh,just one other thing….i see you garage guys often get rid of dust on a surface by using an air blow gun . Now this I can’t get my head around!! Why not use a vacuum and contain the dust !!!
Thank you. Yes some cars we have 1000-2000 hours in body and paint. Somehow we keep getting people that pay us to do what we love. As for the dust and air gun we do that because a dust extraction vacuum/ block doesn’t provide the results I need. We also cannot have any dust on panel when we reapply filler or guide coat. We vacuum at the end of the day.
I have to agree with all the body guys, even though I've been doing this semi professionally for some years now I really do enjoy watching someone with your degree of skill and teaching ability in action..Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video !! Love all of your information and tools and how to get stuff done . Also your time to show us how to just keep getting better and better. You are the MAN!!!😁
I don't mind sharing info with people that come in with questions, but I try really hard to stress that I'm putting in 10 hours a day on a car. My, experienced 10 hours might equate to 20 of theirs. So, if they are planning nights and weekends, they should definitely keep that in mind because I have had countless people come in after getting discouraged, half way through their projects and now it's going to cost them anymore to have me go in and fix/finish it!
What make dry sticky paper do you prefer Travis? I've been using dura gold and find the adhesive is a royal pain to clean up on the linear blocks. Just shot my hood after following your procedures using the linear blocks. Except for a few dust flecks my fault. Wow!! The quality of depth and flatness is amazing. It looks like the paint is poured on. Absolutely dead flat with no ripples form the overhead light reflection. Very happy. Also I left the VP 2050 for at least 8 weeks before blocking. I've heard some complain that its tough to sand. Sure its a little tough to break through at first, but in a way I like that, its more forgiving that way. If its too easy to sand its easy to blow through. Once again you and the guy that sells the blocks have helped me immensely. Cheers John..
Love the videos... This is my new first stop to check for new videos... I think you are just in the beginning to something much bigger... Your method and presentation is great for the DIY people.. .Thanks...
we never had nice blocks in the 70s but somehow i got them straight when i turned 48 one finger on each hand folded inwards to palm from years of solvent doctorsaid and then i had to learn how to use my my inward part of thumb to feel lows 32 years in on floor battles now under my belt.so many showcars now im 60 and doing plastic cars and pdr now im 60 and still fulltime.your eyes and your feeling of even a thumb and knowing is a big part to of making things flat and straight.and sometimes you can just look at a finished classic and say that bodyline looks to rounded it more than likely got buried in mud and 10 paintjobs over time
So, steps?: panels have been stripped to bare metal, whether it be by mechanical, chemical or media blast. VP2050 to cover that. Then body work, hammer and dolly etc. Then before body filler, does one need to grind the surface back to bare metal BEFORE applying the body filler to give it tooth/grip, OR do you prep the VP2050 by scuffing and then body filler over the top of that? THEN once body filler work is done, VP2050 over the top of that, then block out? VP2050 again as a sealer? Maybe you have done a video, but I would like to see you take a bare metal fender and go through the entire process to the point the surface is ready for paint. Its been 30 years since I painted a car and I am getting ready to do a project. Everything has changed since then. I want to do it right the first time and I have no problem spending money on VP2050 if its the only primer/sealer I need. So confusing all the information out there. Its not a show truck that I am doing, Just looking for OEM quality when I am done. Perhaps there is a different approach you would take on something like that? Thanks for taking the time to do these videos, very informative, but would like a summary video start to finish of the process. Perhaps you have one already and I haven't found it. Thank you again!
Thank you so much for the donation!! so you are really close on your procedure you want to do all of your hammer and dolly work while it is in bare metal before any primer even gets on the vehicle. You have to have the metal work perfect as you can get it then seal up the car in 2050 once that has cured for two or three days you can then scuffed up the primer with 100 grit or 120 grit do your body work with filler and then when that is completed, you should be to at least 150 grit. You then go back over it with 2050 3 or 4 coats. Give that another bit of time to dry the longer the better. Start blocking that out with 150 grit and then guide coat 220 grit guide coat 320 grit, guide coat wet sand with 600 grit. There’s different options for sealer but you definitely want to use a sealer. You cannot use the 2050. Then roll right into paint after sealer has flashed off. If you would like a class on this, we are only holding two classes this year. One of them is next month and the other is in June email me if you would like me to send you the information. Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com hope that helps.
My first teacher in metal work always told me, that to feel dents I had to use bare hand. And called other who use gloves stupid. I did'nt changed my opinion about this for few years, even when worked in auto repair center. Used to meet that man, and tell him that people in there use gloves. And we laughed at them together. I did'nt even try to use glove. Just few years ago it was a discovery for me.
Yeah it’s the older way to go about it. However if they are going off of their hand vs blocking with guide coat I 💯 guarantee their cars aren’t as straight
I have worked in auto body and antique auto restoration since the early 1970,s In the early 1990’s I had an employer who is one of the better auto techs I’ve known and he shown me a simple method for checking panel body work perfection by using a clean new blue paper shop towel. You can feel all the imperfections and keeps the oils from your hand off the panel.
Thank you. We have one October 28 and 29th. If that works out for your schedule feel free to email me and I can send you the details or message me on Instagram either one. Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
excellent videos ! I am writing all this down , so I have the notes to refer to come purchase time ! sent your video's to a guy in Canada doing a 55 nomad , to help this " NOVICE " do a better job , he could care less , he my's well be painting a " trash can " he can't even take the old paint off , just wants to be done with it !! ( AND IT WILL LOOK LIKE A TRASH CAN WHEN HE'S DONE ) !!! keep up the great videos & taking the time to share your valuable knowledge with us !!
Great presentation. For someone who attempted to paint a panel on his own (and made a ton of best-effort mistakes), this information will make the next attempt turn out so much better.
Thanks so much for this video and for starting your channel. 4-5 years ago I was trying to get show car mirror finishes on test panels and just couldn't. I'd get rid of orange peel, but still see minor waves as I'd look up/down the panel. After months of research, no use. Nobody seemed to have an answer as to why it wouldn't end up laser straight. So I eventually gave up and took a break. Having returned to find this video and your channel, i've now regained the motivation to try again!
I’ve actually seen the difference in using hook and loop verses a stick on paper. We use hook because it’s less fuss. Yet for straighter bodywork you need the sticking sand papers used in flat blocks for best finish. Crazy I’d have never believed it actually was true but I’ve seen it with my own eyes many times. For a daily driver it’s not a big deal but a show car it definitely is a big deal. Thanks.
Thanks for another helpful video. I'd be curious to know your process for the doors. For example, do you do initial filler and sanding work for the door on a panel stand and then reinstall on the car. Then skim the door and fenders/quarters together and sand to get it all lined up? I echo the comment below about wanting to understand the filler in the gaps. I'd be really interested to see how you refine your gaps as well.
them are cool blocks i bought the foam ones with the 3 rods that you pushed through and you could pull out to adjust.well he dyed a few years ago and his wife no longer wanted the buisness so that company is no more i think i bought them back in 2012 i still have them and they work good to foam handles are wearing away though bondo dust eats them up if you dont keep them blown clean
Hey, just wanted to say thank you for your videos. I recently discovered your channel and I sooo appreciate how you get to the point, keep giving good information every minute and no fluff. Super informative. I just ordered a Linear blocking tool set and used the discount code. Keep up the great work!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS we have been venturing into the paint world lately and went in blind with our first project (will be on our channel soon) with this second one however we will be following a lot of what you have in your channel! I'm sure our finished product is going to be much better this time around with your help 👍
So after body filler has been sanded, then go to 120 before priming? I just finished body filling using your method with the pencil etc and feathering the edges. Worked great by the way. I sanded the filler out with 80. But then primed again. I think I should have gone to 120. I'm Seeing the 80 scratches. I thought I'd wait for a week then go in again with 120 and repeat the prime again? What do you think? I am using vp 2050. Hope everything's ok, Haven't seen any new videos lately. Cheers John.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks Travis! Good to hear all is good. Been super busy here too. Really appreciate the channel. I only watch yours and the linear block guy's videos on body work. Hope to see more next year . All the best Cheers John.
i made that mistake years ago i didnt let primer dry enough on a 70ss chevelle quarter at lead seam and in hot sun it would swell and then when it cooled down it looked ok but not like it shoulda been
If you didn’t notice this video has chapters in the description. Click on the time next to the chapter you want and you will go right to it. Thanks for watching glad it’s helping out.
finally real show quality tips. Just in time for my resto project.. well almost. so far I've used ppg shopline epoxy, then filler, sealed over filler with epoxy, now featherfill (gallon on site) next time I'll use your suggestion for primer. after featherfill, 2K sealer primer?
I like using House of Kolor KDA3000 DTS epoxy hybrid sandable high build primer. Can also be mixed as a medium build or sealer. I also like Specialist Paints 2K DTM it is exactly the same way. I dont get shrink with either one
Whatever works. However they all have shrinkage it’s a matter of how much they get. Only way to know is to weigh it on separate panels as it dries to see when they stop losing weight.
I saw a car that was done by Foose on their tv show. It was shrunk all over. I let my car’s sit in primer for a few weeks In direct sun if possible. Love the video.
Thank you yeah, the problem is people see Paint and they get anxious to get the car even letting the clearcoat sit for many months before cut and polish is ideal
Thank you very much for all the time you put into these videos! Quick question.. if you blow through the primer and have to spot prime that section how do you avoid going through again if technically the blow through is a high spot and doesn't require any more build .. but everywhere around it is low Thank you for your time
You need to have the metal work completed and the bodywork needs to be perfect before you do any primering. If you are having areas that goes through multiple time then the body work is not right spend more time in the beginning would be my recommendation. I hope that helps
Yes but only when you are getting through the top shiny part. Then it sands killer. That is also why I start with 120 and work up from there. Once you get used to getting your body work perfect and using this product you’re not having to re-prime the car or do a bunch of extra work.
Only a pleasure.me and my triplet brother don't own a workshop buy we get the job done.we busy building ourselves up.we busy with a mini cooper.built a wide arch bodykit for it and it's getting a k24 powerplant...we taking the flat process up to 1500 before paint
@@craigsolomon8292 be careful going up that high in grits paint will not adhere. I don’t paint anything above 800 most days 600 is best you need a tooth for it to adhere 👍🏻
On a restoration I always block 120 then 180 and let it gas out for a few days. Then I always reprime so that I have enough material to finish sand steps 220-400-600 without breaking through again. On the flip side, In a collision repair shop there is no time to do it twice or to allow time to gas out and shrink. Best case scenario there is it gets to sit overnight before sanding and painting the following day.
Letting the solvent out, yep soon as its dry enough ill scuff around on it to open up the skin, but i keep a gun full over over reduced black lacquer primer and constantly guide coat til im into six hundred grit. A quart of black lacquer will last forever.
Good video, about the best explanation of trusting guide coat. If I may make a suggestion, buy and use a good quality pair of knee pads, in 20-30 years you'll thank me. Thanks for the discount code, I'm retired and disabled and starting on my 64 Galaxie it'll come in handy
Yeah we have some most of the time I’m sitting in a chair LOL rolling back-and-forth on that that is adjustable up and down I just got down on my knees because we were filming a quick video thanks for watching there’s a lot more to come
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. It's much appreciated! I noticed that on the spec sheet for VP2050 that there are 3 different reducers and 3 different thinners specified for the product. Do you always use one of the reducers or thinners? If so, can you please expand on what you do?
Have you done the wet sanding video yet? Unable to find it. Also I'm a bit confused. During your block sanding you spoke of when to stop (when you see body filler) but in one of your replies to a comment you said 95% of restoration shops do body work after prime? Did I mess up by taking the dented areas down to bare metal to mud? I've always thought after blasting then clean, mud, block, feather it in perfect then prime, guide coat, check for anything missed, remud if necessary? It'd be awesome if you posted a step by step bullet point list for us shadetrees. Much appreciation.
We will be doing one this week and discussing what the different grits are used for and why. Not all shops go over epoxy primer with body filler but that is the preferred method. Is it going to ruin your car since you took it to bare metal for filler probably not.
Awesome video. You are an outstanding teacher. Can you comment on what's the between the door and quarter panel? It's also between the door and rocker? Is that filler or weld? Would love to know more about how you set the door in this position first. Thank you so much and keep the videos coming.
Such great info. Love the level and amount of sharing, especially with paint n body being my absolute weakness in restos. I'm going to be shamelessly copying every nugget I can! I'll be starting to strip down the body of the 69 Dart next month. It's got a ton of relatively flat surfaces so that'll help, but I'm quite concerned about getting all the body lines to get and stay crisp through the process. Hopefully you have a car and video that will address the blocking process when you have bodylines to maintain. It might be common sense, but I definitely would love to see and absorb YOUR technique!!
Ive watched a lot of videos from a lot of channels regarding bodywork. Sylvesters customs is by far the best ive seen. Good job, thanks a bunch.
Thank you very much!!
I have used all your finishing techniques, hand blocked my car 7 times, sprayed sealer , base and clear, hand cut the clear with the block using 1000, 1500, 2000 and then 3000. Machine polish 2 times with compound and the 2 times with swirl remover and machine polish, your lessons are right on, my car is razor straight, the finish is a super high gloss and totally flat, the car came out absolutely gorgeous, I have won two car shows, it is a ton of work but now it was totally worth it, all done in my home garage, you rock, can't thank you enough for the lessons, this bitch is razor straight and awesome.
So glad to hear that!!! Would love to see it! If you are on instagram send pics!
I love these stories. I’ve been learning the hard way in my garage. Turns out pitch black is one of the hardest to get right. It’ll look straight and true until the base coat goes on. The the mistakes and missed issues show up. Not to mention learning about what lies beneath and how it might react to what you lay on top. I took that damned hood down to bare metal so many times I couldn’t really get it perfect again because of all of the chemical and sanding effect on the sheet metal. My Dodge Magnum has an aluminum hood that weights like 21 pounds. Aluminum moves around so much it’s incredibly frustrating. I’m watching this for the fourth time because I’m so frustrated I almost ordered fiberglass replacement . But I did not and chose to persevere. But pitch black, for example Mercedes 040, is one of their oldest codes, and it has two ingredients, the resin and the pigment . And there are so many shades and types of black. My wife’s Hyundai is also black, but it’s really Ash Black Mica. It’s ashy black. Much, much lighter than the 040. But when black is done right, it’s the greatest non-color of all. Menacing and beautiful. Nasty and classy. Powerful and subdued. My Brilliant Black Metallic has like four colors of mica flake in it, and I think ten or so total ingredients. That equals $$$! I’ve got to get this thing right before painting again.
Straight to the point, serious and humble, that’s it!
Thank you
Finally a guy who knows his game. I am a painter over 30+ years...and can relate to this video.
Thank you very much 🙌🏻👊🏻
Another badass video. Seriously appreciate the no ego, no secrets kept, direct approach to showing how you get these finishes to come together.
Hope we are helping you out with those projects. Looking forward to seeing how they come out. Thanks for watching our stuff!!
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I have learned soemthing from EVERY video I have watched....excellent work, thanks!
Great to hear!
Almost 40 years in the trade and I can tell you ! This is absolutely sound advice .
Thank you very much!
I appreciate you explaining stuff like you do and sharing tips and tricks that you by no means have to....unlike some of these fucking nimrods in the comments. I do appreciate guys that say they have done it for years and still learn new stuff....that is someone truly taking pride in their craft. I learned a long time ago that you never stop learning....people don't always realize what a blessing it is to get this kind of info that took someone years to perfect ...and its free without months of schooling. Thanks for what you do.
Awesome, thank you so much.
Learn something new everyday, this industry has changed techniques and products over they years sometimes hard to keep up but information offered in videos like this are great free educational tools. Thanks
Watching these videos is soothing.
Glad you enjoy them. Many more soothing videos in the works. Thanks for watching.
I appreciate the simplicity and 'oversharing' of these videos. Especially providing the products you use, as there are an insane number of options for novices to weed through.
Thanks for watching 👊🏻
No doubt. Killer page!!!
Only one way the right way 💯
Dude, I've been at this work for 25 years+ and always learning with each job. The way you calmly talk through steps and product without yelling and screaming and getting excited and ahead of yourself like other video tutorials on UA-cam,is a breath of fresh air. Fully 100% would trust you and your team to work on my own personal vehicle for a build. Awesome teaching. Much respect all the way from little old New Zealand 🤘🤘🤘👍👍👍
Thank you very much I appreciate it
Enjoyed the video...well done. You have great teaching skills
Thank you, I hope you come back for more videos.
So much good advice, especially for us newbies. I tell myself I'll never paint another car because of the intense labor and patience needed , then I see the oem paint jobs and cost of a good decent paint job and say " here we go again". Keep up the great videos.
Haha no joke it’s not cheap these days
So much sanding.... Thankyou man. This channel is definitely more detailed than others I have found!
Glad you think so! Thank you
I'm 65 years old I built so many cards I lost count in the 80s it costs so much to build a car now that's going to sit in your garage most of it's life I still use single stage paint on my cars might not be perfect but I drive mine everyday
I just applied my second coat of 2K primer but do not own a long blocking tool.
Is that something I can buy at a local paint shop if not I'd have to order one which could take a few days to receive. What are my options at this point.
I'm working on the trunk of a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP bright red
hey brother I'm digging the videos, iv owned my own shop for almost 10 years and it is nice seeing things done the way they are supposed to. watching your videos is like taking a refresher course and getting rid of all the bad habits iv accumulated threw out my time in the industry. I just had to close my shop and move it to my home base I was really disappointed for a bit, but without the overhead iv been able to concentrate on quality and these videos are a reminder that people still do and appreciate it. Good job brother and thank you
That’s awesome very glad to hear! Thx for watching!!
Glad to hear just trying to shed some light on the folks who think the work we do is easy. Quality is key keep up the good work! Thx for watching 👍🏻
I never feel like saying this or this way but damnit Sylvester, you left me wanting more!!! It is like we went to commercial and the clock ran out. Listen to me, I am not the type to watch epoxy dry nor get into a hurry, it’s just I was so caught up in the product, the tools, the method, it even crossed my mind to count the number of strokes on the block to be consistent and, and it stopped? 😢 That was a fast 17 minutes, I felt, well just keep going! I can’t believe I feel that. More. 😂
Lol thank you!! There will be more coming soon but new video every Friday we’re very happy that you love the videos.
I’ve never had my paper clog with guide coat spray can. I use a flat lacquer. I let it dry then take the majority off with a da using 180. In my opinion it’s okay to use a flat disk da to take off the top layer as you still are left with plenty of visual guide coat to sand flat. It’s faster this way as well and instead of laboring for hours to get the process started. It basically jumps the routine into hyper drive and the job is done much quicker with same results. IMO. But yes these so called steps can be different for different people and shops. Nothing is concrete. It’s what works best for you. I think you talk about sanding epoxy primer? I’ve never done that. When applying epoxy it’s usually sprayed on to protect the metal even before body work is being done. If you work the surface down to metal more epoxy is needed. Then comes several coats of surface primer on top. Perhaps all these years I’ve been doing it wrong. Perhaps the workers who use this method are all wrong and you are the only one doing it the right way. Sanding down epoxy. Which is rough and very difficult to sand.
It seems we differ in many aspects of body finishing. I guess there are always those who learn it a different way.
As long as the body is like glass in the end I don’t care who’s method you use.
Good job on getting these cars smoother than they ever were from the factory.
@@MrCbell57 Just remember Rick, there are different ways of doing everything. Some epoxy have a short or long open time. I read to make it right. Having VP2050 DTM epoxy based primer sealer is outside my allowance, but using a short stroke DA W/Interface pad keep lines sharp while braking the hard top layer. I will wipe down and spray my epoxy over bare metal break thru spots. I prefer the sealing part of a hard waterproof substrate before addressing scratches to pin holes. At least you are using your noodle and creating at 30-40+ year paint finish and for the, I salute you for caring! DK, Omaha.
Dude this was an awesome and very descriptive video ! Most of my questions were answered ! So glad to see someone who explains all the small details. Keep the vids coming brother !
Thank you!
So UPDATE!!! I just got my starter kit of Linear Blocking tools in today. GAME CHANGER for me! I am rebuilding a McLaren 570s that had every body panel damaged. The roof has been a real challenge to get right. It was close, but not perfect. It will be perfect now! Thank you!
So very glad to hear!
Thanks SYLVESTER great suggestions 👍 appreciate your time sharing it.
My pleasure
You really are a great teacher and humble about it. I have always paid places to paint my restorations but I'm getting to where I want to do this on my own. Thank you for the great videos.
Thank you, I hope we can keep getting you videos that help you along that journey .
Me too , too many bad experiences with over promise and under deliver.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video it helped alot .
Glad it helped
Just found your videos and I am addicted. Can't wait for the next video.
Thank you so much. We will be putting some together very soon
I bought a 1966 c10 going to start soon. I’ve been following your videos. My wife watched a couple with me and said “Oh my God this will take YOU thousands of hours”. This will be my first major restoration.
Good luck!
Thanks
Best explanation I've ever watched good job making sense
Thank you!
PPG have providing automotive paints and primers for the auto industry for 80yrs. Can't go wrong with that. I've binged on several vids. I'm hooked, hope to see some body restoration, qtr skins, rust repairs / I get it not much in Cali cars.
Thank you very much as a matter fact the 61 impala we will be doing quite a bit of metal work including rust repair quarter panel replacement custom-made firewall and floors the plan is to build a full custom car and show how to do the entire process for people at home 👍🏻 thanks for watching
I really appreciate you sharing your craft. There's a lot of channels that do a good job at showing how it's done and you can even tell they care, but you are a cut above the rest. After watching your videos i actually feel confident in starting to practice and get ready to give it a go.
I appreciate that! Thank you so much
I’m an English carpenter,seventy years old,and I have great respect for anyone who is passionate about their work,no matter what it is. Needless to say Travis ,I have this great respect for you . Your work is amazing and I say this as someone who also goes the extra mile in prep etc. just one thing puzzles me though . How on earth can you make a living putting this kind of time into a car, even a classic . I knew , even before I saw your first video , that automotive paint is time consuming and expensive, but your standard is off the scale. Is it that it is mostly hobbyists who go to these lengths , as they don’t count the time spent,or is the US just rammed with millionaires ?
Even with a perfect ,flawless finished product like yours must be, the end cost of the car must far outweigh its actual cash value . Not forgetting also ,that the bodywork is only part of the job,and anyone demanding such perfection in paint,will surely require the same standard for all other aspects, eg engine ,interior trim etc . Please don’t take this as any sort of criticism……I’m just curious !!! Regards from England. Oh,just one other thing….i see you garage guys often get rid of dust on a surface by using an air blow gun . Now this I can’t get my head around!! Why not use a vacuum and contain the dust !!!
Thank you. Yes some cars we have 1000-2000 hours in body and paint. Somehow we keep getting people that pay us to do what we love. As for the dust and air gun we do that because a dust extraction vacuum/ block doesn’t provide the results I need. We also cannot have any dust on panel when we reapply filler or guide coat. We vacuum at the end of the day.
I have to agree with all the body guys, even though I've been doing this semi professionally for some years now I really do enjoy watching someone with your degree of skill and teaching ability in action..Thanks for sharing!
You got it, more to come. Thanks for watching.
These videos of yours are some of the most informative out there. Very thorough, Very well done easy to understand.
Thank you very much
Awesome video !! Love all of your information and tools and how to get stuff done . Also your time to show us how to just keep getting better and better. You are the MAN!!!😁
My pleasure! Thx for watching
This is awesome what a totally different way of thinking outside the box.. Can`t wait for the next episode.
Thank you very much glad you enjoyed it
Thanks!
Thank you!!
I don't mind sharing info with people that come in with questions, but I try really hard to stress that I'm putting in 10 hours a day on a car. My, experienced 10 hours might equate to 20 of theirs. So, if they are planning nights and weekends, they should definitely keep that in mind because I have had countless people come in after getting discouraged, half way through their projects and now it's going to cost them anymore to have me go in and fix/finish it!
Good video! Got a lot of respect for you guys that chase ultra show quality.
Thank you very much we’re still learning too 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ain't we all lol.
Thank you for doing these videos. Learning a lot of " little" tricks and tips, which can add up to big things!
You got it, they certainly do. Hope you keep watching. There’s a lot more to share.
What make dry sticky paper do you prefer Travis? I've been using dura gold and find the adhesive is a royal pain to clean up on the linear blocks. Just shot my hood after following your procedures using the linear blocks. Except for a few dust flecks my fault. Wow!! The quality of depth and flatness is amazing. It looks like the paint is poured on. Absolutely dead flat with no ripples form the overhead light reflection. Very happy. Also I left the VP 2050 for at least 8 weeks before blocking. I've heard some complain that its tough to sand. Sure its a little tough to break through at first, but in a way I like that, its more forgiving that way. If its too easy to sand its easy to blow through. Once again you and the guy that sells the blocks have helped me immensely. Cheers John..
Very glad to hear. My favorite paper at the moment is sunmight
Love the videos... This is my new first stop to check for new videos... I think you are just in the beginning to something much bigger... Your method and presentation is great for the DIY people.. .Thanks...
Thanks for the amazing compliment. We plan on bringing you a lot more.
Very good video amigo
Thank you!
we never had nice blocks in the 70s but somehow i got them straight when i turned 48 one finger on each hand folded inwards to palm from years of solvent doctorsaid and then i had to learn how to use my my inward part of thumb to feel lows 32 years in on floor battles now under my belt.so many showcars now im 60 and doing plastic cars and pdr now im 60 and still fulltime.your eyes and your feeling of even a thumb and knowing is a big part to of making things flat and straight.and sometimes you can just look at a finished classic and say that bodyline looks to rounded it more than likely got buried in mud and 10 paintjobs over time
So, steps?: panels have been stripped to bare metal, whether it be by mechanical, chemical or media blast. VP2050 to cover that. Then body work, hammer and dolly etc. Then before body filler, does one need to grind the surface back to bare metal BEFORE applying the body filler to give it tooth/grip, OR do you prep the VP2050 by scuffing and then body filler over the top of that? THEN once body filler work is done, VP2050 over the top of that, then block out? VP2050 again as a sealer? Maybe you have done a video, but I would like to see you take a bare metal fender and go through the entire process to the point the surface is ready for paint. Its been 30 years since I painted a car and I am getting ready to do a project. Everything has changed since then. I want to do it right the first time and I have no problem spending money on VP2050 if its the only primer/sealer I need. So confusing all the information out there. Its not a show truck that I am doing, Just looking for OEM quality when I am done. Perhaps there is a different approach you would take on something like that? Thanks for taking the time to do these videos, very informative, but would like a summary video start to finish of the process. Perhaps you have one already and I haven't found it. Thank you again!
Thank you so much for the donation!! so you are really close on your procedure you want to do all of your hammer and dolly work while it is in bare metal before any primer even gets on the vehicle. You have to have the metal work perfect as you can get it then seal up the car in 2050 once that has cured for two or three days you can then scuffed up the primer with 100 grit or 120 grit do your body work with filler and then when that is completed, you should be to at least 150 grit. You then go back over it with 2050 3 or 4 coats. Give that another bit of time to dry the longer the better. Start blocking that out with 150 grit and then guide coat 220 grit guide coat 320 grit, guide coat wet sand with 600 grit. There’s different options for sealer but you definitely want to use a sealer. You cannot use the 2050. Then roll right into paint after sealer has flashed off. If you would like a class on this, we are only holding two classes this year. One of them is next month and the other is in June email me if you would like me to send you the information. Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com hope that helps.
My first teacher in metal work always told me, that to feel dents I had to use bare hand. And called other who use gloves stupid. I did'nt changed my opinion about this for few years, even when worked in auto repair center. Used to meet that man, and tell him that people in there use gloves. And we laughed at them together. I did'nt even try to use glove. Just few years ago it was a discovery for me.
Yeah it’s the older way to go about it. However if they are going off of their hand vs blocking with guide coat I 💯 guarantee their cars aren’t as straight
I have worked in auto body and antique auto restoration since the early 1970,s In the early 1990’s I had an employer who is one of the better auto techs I’ve known and he shown me a simple method for checking panel body work perfection by using a clean new blue paper shop towel. You can feel all the imperfections and keeps the oils from your hand off the panel.
Been learning a lot from your channel brother.
This video here opened my eyes big time.
I wanna take a class of yours on blocking for sure.
Thank you. We have one October 28 and 29th. If that works out for your schedule feel free to email me and I can send you the details or message me on Instagram either one. Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for the info, I'm gonna arrange to be there. Thanks again brother.
pleasure to watch your videos its very educative
Thank you!
you are a great teacher thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for watching.
Thanks for your details and simplicity. Subscribed!
Thank you!!!
Excellent attention to detail on explanations - thanks for taking the time to explain the strategy with process, tools, and materials !
You got it, we hope the future videos can help you as well.
Thanks for the video. You explain everything really good and thorough. On this video along , you answered a lot of questions for me.
Thank you for watching!
Extremely great video you guys are great.
Thank you!
Nice job wearing a mask while you are sanding! Trust the guide coat. It hasn’t lied to me yet!
excellent videos ! I am writing all this down , so I have the notes to refer to come purchase time !
sent your video's to a guy in Canada doing a 55 nomad , to help this " NOVICE " do a better job , he could care less , he my's well be painting a " trash can " he can't even take the old paint off , just wants to be done with it !! ( AND IT WILL LOOK LIKE A TRASH CAN WHEN HE'S DONE ) !!! keep up the great videos & taking the time to share your valuable knowledge with us !!
Thanks for watching! I hope we can help that 55 Nomad out.
This is a fantastic video I really appreciate you taking the time to give us these tips. Great content!
Thank you very much
Great presentation. For someone who attempted to paint a panel on his own (and made a ton of best-effort mistakes), this information will make the next attempt turn out so much better.
Awesome, glad we could help you out.
Great info & well presented as always. Thanks for sharing your expertise & experience with us.
Rick
You are Welcome, more to come stay tuned.
Thanks so much for this video and for starting your channel. 4-5 years ago I was trying to get show car mirror finishes on test panels and just couldn't. I'd get rid of orange peel, but still see minor waves as I'd look up/down the panel. After months of research, no use. Nobody seemed to have an answer as to why it wouldn't end up laser straight. So I eventually gave up and took a break. Having returned to find this video and your channel, i've now regained the motivation to try again!
That’s awesome glad to hear they are helping you
Appreciate the awesome tips and tricks, this will help out a lot. Thanks
You are welcome more to come.
I’ve actually seen the difference in using hook and loop verses a stick on paper. We use hook because it’s less fuss. Yet for straighter bodywork you need the sticking sand papers used in flat blocks for best finish. Crazy I’d have never believed it actually was true but I’ve seen it with my own eyes many times. For a daily driver it’s not a big deal but a show car it definitely is a big deal. Thanks.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💯💯💯💯
Thanks for the excellent video.. well done.
Thank you
Awesome walk through! Thank you
You got it, thanks for watching.
Great explanation!!
Glad it was helpful!
on your primer you can get it in industrial form ppg cre same stuff without fancy labels at way lower cost . we love it
Yep we have used it when you couldn’t get vp2050 nearly the same product. 🤘🏻👌🏻👊🏻👍🏻
Thanks for another helpful video. I'd be curious to know your process for the doors. For example, do you do initial filler and sanding work for the door on a panel stand and then reinstall on the car. Then skim the door and fenders/quarters together and sand to get it all lined up? I echo the comment below about wanting to understand the filler in the gaps. I'd be really interested to see how you refine your gaps as well.
Thank you for the question. We will post a short video explaining why we do it and the process. Keep an eye out next week for it.
This is another great video …. Thank you 👍
Thank you
them are cool blocks i bought the foam ones with the 3 rods that you pushed through and you could pull out to adjust.well he dyed a few years ago and his wife no longer wanted the buisness so that company is no more i think i bought them back in 2012 i still have them and they work good to foam handles are wearing away though bondo dust eats them up if you dont keep them blown clean
Thank you
You're welcome
Just from the first couple seconds of the video your presentation is sub worthy… 👍
Thank you
Hey, just wanted to say thank you for your videos. I recently discovered your channel and I sooo appreciate how you get to the point, keep giving good information every minute and no fluff. Super informative. I just ordered a Linear blocking tool set and used the discount code. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much!!
WOW, so much great info. Thanks
Thank you for watching
Helpful! I've been using the linear blocks now for awhile and looking forward to getting onto some larger landscapes like hoods and roof with them!
That is where they really shine!
thank you very much for sharing this. We really owe you one!
Glad you enjoyed it
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS we have been venturing into the paint world lately and went in blind with our first project (will be on our channel soon) with this second one however we will be following a lot of what you have in your channel! I'm sure our finished product is going to be much better this time around with your help 👍
@@superbimmerbros That’s awesome very glad to hear we have a lot more tutorials coming soon thanks for watching
Excellent video! Super helpful
Thank you!
So after body filler has been sanded, then go to 120 before priming? I just finished body filling using your method with the pencil etc and feathering the edges. Worked great by the way. I sanded the filler out with 80. But then primed again. I think I should have gone to 120. I'm Seeing the 80 scratches. I thought I'd wait for a week then go in again with 120 and repeat the prime again? What do you think? I am using vp 2050. Hope everything's ok, Haven't seen any new videos lately. Cheers John.
All is good thank you. Shops been super busy. We will be back soon. Try and get your filler work to 150 grit before priming.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks Travis! Good to hear all is good. Been super busy here too. Really appreciate the channel. I only watch yours and the linear block guy's videos on body work. Hope to see more next year . All the best Cheers John.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 thank you so much. We have been super active on instagram finishing up the caddy and gasser. Videos coming very soon
Thank you sir
i made that mistake years ago i didnt let primer dry enough on a 70ss chevelle quarter at lead seam and in hot sun it would swell and then when it cooled down it looked ok but not like it shoulda been
Man I've watched this twice etc in my brain, and saved to revisit keep up the awesome vid learni g a lot!!!!
If you didn’t notice this video has chapters in the description. Click on the time next to the chapter you want and you will go right to it. Thanks for watching glad it’s helping out.
finally real show quality tips. Just in time for my resto project.. well almost. so far I've used ppg shopline epoxy, then filler, sealed over filler with epoxy, now featherfill (gallon on site) next time I'll use your suggestion for primer. after featherfill, 2K sealer primer?
I don’t use any feather fill I only use vp2050 but yes you could do it that way 👍🏻
Cool video brotha. Thanks for sharing knowledge 👍🏼
Thx for watching
I like using House of Kolor KDA3000 DTS epoxy hybrid sandable high build primer. Can also be mixed as a medium build or sealer. I also like Specialist Paints 2K DTM it is exactly the same way. I dont get shrink with either one
Whatever works. However they all have shrinkage it’s a matter of how much they get. Only way to know is to weigh it on separate panels as it dries to see when they stop losing weight.
I saw a car that was done by Foose on their tv show. It was shrunk all over. I let my car’s sit in primer for a few weeks In direct sun if possible. Love the video.
Thank you yeah, the problem is people see Paint and they get anxious to get the car even letting the clearcoat sit for many months before cut and polish is ideal
feeling and visual are 2 different aspects the first can lie to you like you would not believe, believe your eyes(guide coat) before your hands.
Great video great tips as well
Thank you!!
Thank you very much for all the time you put into these videos!
Quick question.. if you blow through the primer and have to spot prime that section how do you avoid going through again if technically the blow through is a high spot and doesn't require any more build .. but everywhere around it is low
Thank you for your time
You need to have the metal work completed and the bodywork needs to be perfect before you do any primering. If you are having areas that goes through multiple time then the body work is not right spend more time in the beginning would be my recommendation. I hope that helps
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
Ok thanks
SHOWTIME!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching!!
That primer is hard as a freaking rock!...we demoed it at our shop and I hated trying to block it because it's so hard to cut.
Yes but only when you are getting through the top shiny part. Then it sands killer. That is also why I start with 120 and work up from there. Once you get used to getting your body work perfect and using this product you’re not having to re-prime the car or do a bunch of extra work.
Great stuff. 👍
Lol I feel u on sanding bro.im a chef but also do panelbeating. Good tips.keep ul the good work
Will do, thanks for watching.
Only a pleasure.me and my triplet brother don't own a workshop buy we get the job done.we busy building ourselves up.we busy with a mini cooper.built a wide arch bodykit for it and it's getting a k24 powerplant...we taking the flat process up to 1500 before paint
@@craigsolomon8292 be careful going up that high in grits paint will not adhere. I don’t paint anything above 800 most days 600 is best you need a tooth for it to adhere 👍🏻
awesome vid ...thanks man
Thank you!
great content very informative
Thank you
On a restoration I always block 120 then 180 and let it gas out for a few days. Then I always reprime so that I have enough material to finish sand steps 220-400-600 without breaking through again. On the flip side, In a collision repair shop there is no time to do it twice or to allow time to gas out and shrink. Best case scenario there is it gets to sit overnight before sanding and painting the following day.
Very good video have learnt some especially about the paint curing and guide coat,one negative on why is here no dust extraction?
Dust extraction systems are not designed in a way to get your car straight.
Letting the solvent out, yep soon as its dry enough ill scuff around on it to open up the skin, but i keep a gun full over over reduced black lacquer primer and constantly guide coat til im into six hundred grit. A quart of black lacquer will last forever.
Good video, about the best explanation of trusting guide coat. If I may make a suggestion, buy and use a good quality pair of knee pads, in 20-30 years you'll thank me. Thanks for the discount code, I'm retired and disabled and starting on my 64 Galaxie it'll come in handy
Yeah we have some most of the time I’m sitting in a chair LOL rolling back-and-forth on that that is adjustable up and down I just got down on my knees because we were filming a quick video thanks for watching there’s a lot more to come
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. It's much appreciated! I noticed that on the spec sheet for VP2050 that there are 3 different reducers and 3 different thinners specified for the product. Do you always use one of the reducers or thinners? If so, can you please expand on what you do?
We will touch base on that in a future video for you. We use D8767 reducer
Great video man!
Thank you!!
Great video. I’m gonna subscribe. Pity we only get one tenth of the products here in Oz that you do in the USA.
Yeah even in Ca we are limited
Great video. It all makes perfect sense. Is spot putty a no no because it will eventually shrink differently than the primer?
We use glazing putty just make sure it’s not a 1K product only 2k with a hardener
Have you done the wet sanding video yet? Unable to find it.
Also I'm a bit confused. During your block sanding you spoke of when to stop (when you see body filler) but in one of your replies to a comment you said 95% of restoration shops do body work after prime? Did I mess up by taking the dented areas down to bare metal to mud? I've always thought after blasting then clean, mud, block, feather it in perfect then prime, guide coat, check for anything missed, remud if necessary? It'd be awesome if you posted a step by step bullet point list for us shadetrees. Much appreciation.
We will be doing one this week and discussing what the different grits are used for and why. Not all shops go over epoxy primer with body filler but that is the preferred method. Is it going to ruin your car since you took it to bare metal for filler probably not.
Awesome video. You are an outstanding teacher. Can you comment on what's the between the door and quarter panel? It's also between the door and rocker? Is that filler or weld? Would love to know more about how you set the door in this position first. Thank you so much and keep the videos coming.
We have a video called Body Work Panel to Panel with No Latch. It will answer all those questions for you.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thank you!
Such great info. Love the level and amount of sharing, especially with paint n body being my absolute weakness in restos. I'm going to be shamelessly copying every nugget I can! I'll be starting to strip down the body of the 69 Dart next month. It's got a ton of relatively flat surfaces so that'll help, but I'm quite concerned about getting all the body lines to get and stay crisp through the process. Hopefully you have a car and video that will address the blocking process when you have bodylines to maintain. It might be common sense, but I definitely would love to see and absorb YOUR technique!!
Thank you! Not only do we have videos on bodywork we also have a video on doing the body line last. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Apologizes! Since discovering your channel I havent been able to binge and watch them all...YET!!👍
@@wheels-n-tires1846 right on I know the feeling 👍🏻