🪓 Broken Axe Handles: ~It's Not Always About The Grain!~ 🪓
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 лип 2022
- There is an overemphasis on growth ring alignment in axe handle end grain. More important are wood quality and runout. Also very important is technique. I think many axe handles are probably broken by a heavy handed technique. They splitting and chopping wood, it is important for your health, efficiency and gear to have a light handed technique that relies on skill, accuracy and speed over brute force or excessive attitude. the system that is an axe, a wood handle, with a heavy metal head, is inherently problematic. Stresses are inevitable, but we don't need to add unnecessary stress to the handle that can lead to heart and handle breakage.
Support on / skillcult has been critical in keeping me experimenting and making content. If you want to help me help others, this is probably the best way to do it. Thank you Patrons for supporting the mission!
Donations can also be sent via PayPal @: www.paypal.com/paypalme/Skill...
Buy less, but buy it through my links! Shopping through my affiliate links generates revenue for me, at no extra cost to you, click links here, or go to my Amazon Store page: skillcult.com/amazon-store/ But seriously, buy less, do more.
Standard gear that I often recommend. I either use or have used all of it.
Council Tool Boys Axe: amzn.to/3z0muqI
Bahco Farmer's File: amzn.to/3Hbdhij
King two sided sharpening stone: amzn.to/32EX1XC
Silky f180 saw: amzn.to/3yZzM71
ARS 10 foot long reach pruner: amzn.to/3esETmM
Victorinox grafting/floral knife: amzn.to/3Jki1E9
Wiebe 12” fleshing tool: amzn.to/3sB0qSl
Atlas Elbow Gloves: amzn.to/3FwB5g6
BOOKS:
The Axe Book, by Dudley Cook: amzn.to/32kx7sN
Bushcraft, by Mors Kochanski: amzn.to/32q2rpT
Subscribe to my channel for more insightful Self Reliance related content: ua-cam.com/users/skillcultsubs... Click the bell icon to be notified of new content. Subscribing doesn’t mean that much on it’s own.
Blog and website: www.skillcult.com/blog
Instagram and Facebook @SkillCult
Glad to see you back with some more axe content. I’ve learned a ton from those videos
those videos got me into biying axes and restoring some as well,even old saws.
i used to hate the work but when you learn to appreciate the nuance and physical mechanics i actually enjoy putting in some effort
As Brandon Stanfield below in the comments said: It's good to see you back with more axe content. I'm a fellow of a certain age (read older man) & I've been following your channel & chiming in with comments from time to time for the past few years. You are pretty much the only person on UA-cam that I can find little to no fault in your theories, execution & practical use of an axe. Been using & swinging them myself for around 50yrs.
It's the nuances, understanding, knowledge & experience that makes all the difference. Knowing how wood grows, its strengths & weaknesses are important when selecting a new haft fro your axe but as you continually say, technique is king if not invaluable. It's always a joy to watch your uploads especially the axe content for my interests. I am the first to admit that even a young fellow like you can teach a bitter, cynical old man a few things. Cheers from Canada.
Good content, I think the lack of knowledge on topics like handles causes manufacturers to “dumb down” their products, so the more education out there ultimately the better products we will have.
I was watching a video from a knife and tool shop on UA-cam and they said a customer sent back an axe because the handle had “too wide grain…” and then he asked for a handle with tighter grain…
I think the lack of knowledge also causes companies to thicken their handles.
I think it is likely that wider growth rings are preferable in most cases. The other problem is that axe manufacturers are generally not axe users. They need to be educated too.
this thing about this cherished "tight grain" in a tool handle seems to be a very widespread misconception. The truth is that we want the complete opposite. You want as wide growth rings as possible, because ash, elm or hickory are all ring-porous and the faster the growth the stronger and more dense the wood is. That also why the ideal handle wood stems from somewhat young tree, say 30 years or something. Being a handle maker myself using only handtools I can attest to that handles with wide growth rings are much more tough and hard to work with. Tight grained wood on the other hand can be surprisingly soft
Wow, thanks for talking about this detail. I thought a narrow ring-pattern was better. Lol ... it is better in one of our family's hobbies, violin making. But this is the miracle awesomeness of trees; their properties are as varied as their species. Properties that vary as much as plastic to steel, and all the many uses of same.
I used to watch your axe videos before I had any experience. Now that I've riven timber, made handles and swung enough to feel confident I see how great almost all your advice is. I mean there's nothing in this video that can be debated. This is how it is! I know that's against your philosophy. That people shouldn't just listen to others on UA-cam and take it as gospel but as someone who has experience now, people SHOULD listen to you.
Experienced users not breaking bad quality handle lumber makes a lot of sense. This is why guys will say maybe runout doesn't matter much. It does, you're just good with your axe. With my experimental lumber (low quality pin oak) I broke the handle when trying to get it unstuck. There are certain times when you stress the handle the most and they aren't hard to figure out.
As a side note I am totally ashamed that I have not done a one tree challenge after watching your original cordwood challenge video recently. My credibility! haha I did process a tree with many big limbs but I haven't been able to fell a tree with an axe yet. It definitely motivated me. I will do this one day!
Well, there is a difference between being willing to consider and take advice and accepting all of it blindly. that's the part I'm against. No reason to accept it in order to try it and see. Runout can matter a lot I think, but in context. I mean to say it doesn't matter assumes a lot. Again, everything may not need to be perfect, but it's still nice to stack the odds in our favor. Some wood is just very weak and splits along the grain easily. It's still a highly strressed tool, even with skilled use. I'm sure you'll get around to that one tree thing. I have acess to tons of trees to cut down, so it's just what I do here. Not everyone is so lucky.
Yep. This is something that I have indistinctively done ever since I first picked up an axe. I've since taught other people how to use them right (and not break handles), explaining it by saying that using an axe for chopping or splitting wood is a two-stage process. The first stage (and 90% of the movement) is accelerating the axe head and the second stage is controlling it. The stages overlap quite a bit but never input power in the last part of the stroke.
Thanks for the video Steven, I hope you're well.
Your an excellent instructor, I never thought of it that way before. Thank you!
I think this video explains a lot about 'why' handles fail. I never got coached or watched videos when developing my ax swing, I think the more you use an ax the more your body and style evolves towards efficiency. The last 1/3rd or maybe 2/3 of an ax swing isnt about power, its more about gently nursing that heavy bit into the wood at speed. Those wrists need to be loose. Its the same reason so many find the 'flick' difficult to master, they simply have way to stiff of a grip. When you relax and have sub conscious confidence in what your doing you can relax your grip and wrists to allow the handle to rotate on impact. Scott you explain stuff so well. I think mastering this technique is good and exposes those using a death-grip. A death grip ain't going to prevent a glancing bit from going where it wants to go, but with relaxed arms your way better at dealing with it.
Heck yes!! Glad to see one of my favorite content creators making videos again! I have been binge watching your axe handle stave videos in your absence in the hope's I might make my own handle for a sweet double bit I acquired over the winter. Thank you for all of the invaluable knowledge you bestow upon us, Mr. Edholm. Cheers!!
HE'S BACK 🔥
Thanks Steven! My most favored axe has a ton of severed fibers/runout on the sides and a knot about the size of a dime near the shoulder, it's been going strong for like 5 years. It's been beat up and banged on limbs to the point that it's concave on the front edge of the handle right below the head. I'd have thought it would have broken some time ago but I obviously don't know too much. Lol
Nice, toughness trumps a lot of things lol.
Outstanding. I decided to keep the horizontally grained factory handle on my brand new CT Hudson bay because it's super light duty anyway and the handle looks otherwise pretty solid. Just wait and see what happens . I totally agree on relaxing the "death grip " upon impact. Hand shock is a killer. I learned that as a kid shooting a longbow.
I used a hatchet with "perfectly wrong" grain orientation for years, used it hard and never had a problem. No runout, solid wood, no Problem. I heared that "wrong grain" absorbs shock better. So at short handles it is welcome.
I think your tips have just helped my golf swing! Great tutorial, thanks 😊
I could be wrong, but the physical quantity that matters when the head of an axe hits a block of wood is not momentum, but kinetic energy, and that is proportional to the mass and to the square of the velocity. So, when you double the velocity you quadruple the kinetic energy.
Was taught growing up that firewood was split with a maul so mostly just played around with axes. On your recommendation I got the council tool boys ax and enjoy it but definitely need more practice. Anyhow another useful Woodsman tutorial. Thanks much!
My father taught me to swing an axe, maul or hammer correctly in my youth . It’s one of the many things I appreciate about his instruction.
I feel like technique is underrated for a lot of tools in general. This is some good though provoking content, thanks!
My grandfather tough me how to split wood but not by telling me how to do it, he just told me what not to do and let me get the hang of it.
One rule was - do not lift the axe above your head, you gonna get too much force and break the handle + your wrists will be a mess the next day...
Glad to see you Mister Edholm!
I appreciate your videos immensely. It's very clear that you've put the time in to truly discuss the matter intelligently. I've watched many of your videos, and will watch many more. Cheers to you.
You're probably not a golfer, but the golf swing is similar. Different planes, but the goal is a light grip and the use of head speed to achieve a powerful blow.
I wish I could draw a cartoon of what you're attempting to say. Explaining physics in words is difficult--I know, I used to teach science. My cartoon would compare the axe head with a wrecking ball, and the handle with the cable that the ball is hanging from. In that comparison, it seems pretty clear to anyone watching a wrecking ball that the crane-operator doesn't get any performance by moving the crane right when the ball hits the building. All the work is done by getting the ball to pick up energy as it goes into the swing. The handle of an axe, far less flexible, provides aim and leverage, but gains its power using the same principle of a high-momentum swinging ball.
Steven, I paid a lot of attention to what you said about putting a new handle on an axe, and I bet you'd appreciate how mine's turned out!
I get tendinitis for almost no damn reason. I figured the solution would be an underweight head, but a longer handle to provide greater leverage. I found a 36" maul handle that had an extremely straight grain from top to bottom. I cut it down to 26" (leaving me with a nice bit of handle material for some future tool) and then shaved it down to remove pointless runs of non-continuous grain and extra weight. It's fitted to a very light head, 1.5 pounds, something you'd normally only see on a small hatchet. So far, it's performed wonderfully--no tendinitis!
The thing I wish more people realized is how being able to make things for yourself makes it so you can solve very individual problems like this. The recent chaos seems to have caused an increase in interest in self-sufficiency; hopefully that's starting to break the hold of mass-produced plastic crap.
I'm sure there are better ways to explain it. Hopefully people are getting it. i think it's something you really have to do anyway and get it to work for you before the lightbulb really comes on. I think maybe some specific exercises would be useful.
You might be able to increase the head weight and shorten the handle as you become conditioned to the work. I used to get tendonitis a lot, but it was really from overworking scraping hides and stuff like that. I don't get it anymore.
In my experience of making handles grain run out is much more likely to occur with horizontal grain orientation than vertical orientation because most handles have at least some curve which automatically puts horizontal grain at a disadvantage since it will run into the curve.
Every axe handle I have seen broken has horizontal orientation and they always break 3/4 way up the handle where you start getting into curves, i have seen (and done) massively over struck vertical grain axe being almost half way smashed through and I still couldn’t snap them when putting a new handle on them, not to say it’s impossible to snap a vertical grain handle I have just never seen it done.
This explains why I've broken new handles a maul and a sledge hammer. Straight, thick handles. I've never broken a axe handle. My favorite axe has a very curved thin handle. I used it a lot. I just use it differently. I've also pretty much burnt BLO into it also. It's pretty dark hickory. 😅
Those heads are usually heavier too, so the changes in inertia can be hard on the wood. But yeah, old sledge handles tend to be pretty thin too and you have to let the tool do its work, once it strikes.
Great info! It is always worth watching your videos Steven!
I like to think about the process very much as you described it. The upper hand is creating a great deal of acceleration at the start of the axe path (arch) downward. The lower hand while also contributing to the power generation initially....acts primarily as the axle (guiding the force) around which the axe head rotates in its path toward the target. By the time the axe heads hit wood the upper hand is very relaxed having slide down around the bottom of the handle and the lower hand at the butt is gripping only tightly enough to secure the path of travel and prevent the axe from slipping out of my hands. It is only a small portion at the start of each strike that I am exerting power into the handle. As a side note this power generation is done while I am standing straight up down (not bent over at impact).....which translates into the ability to do work for a longer period of time without over exertion of man or tool. Efficiency is the name of the game when working with hand tools IMHO.
I don't think I can even analyze what the flow of articulations is in my swing without video taping it with a high frame rate and then analyzing. I do know though that when I'm going for high acceleration, I'll tend to snap with the wrists at the end. That is not so easy with a heavy maul, but creating that rapid tight arc around the wrists can really accelerate the head. I think an element of the swing could be said to be just motive power without mechancial advantage. But even a little arc in there seems to make a big difference. A bunch of the energy expended in the beginning, is in the realm of gaining initial momentum, since we cannot go from dead still to an arcing high speed snap super fast It's the 0 to 60 problem. As far as efficiency goes, that's a complicated picture too. And eeking out that extra power to hit things really hard, is ultimately inneficient in the big picture. In othert words, there is probably a point of greatly diminishing returns if we start to edge out to the limits of our abilities. But for most of us, there are many other places to dial in physical efficiency.
@@SkillCult that's where I'm working at now; because power can only cause damage to my screwed-up collagen fibers (tendons, ligaments), I have to make the goal one of efficiency and physics.
Great explanation
so happy to see more axe videos!
Excellent description as usual.
Great topic! Well presented as usual. Thanks.
Glad to see you back in the game! I marked this to watch later, can't wait to see it.
good to see you !
Nice advice
I'm sure I saw advice somewhere suggesting the follow through with the hands, pushing down as the head hits the wood. I think the reason given was safety, to lower the chances of the axe head coming through or glancing towards the user. I know I tried it for a while. Interesting video, thanks.
You can do that by just aiming the head in the right direction, without actually pushing on it. I call it direction of cut.
Hell yeah pops!
Good to see you back. Hopefully, you have cooler weather and winds up there, vs here in the Bay, and insane weather (and people) here.
Generous Learner I thank you for this vid, and the monumental social progress for wich it stands. My own brand of strength and enthusiasm gained me much trauma as a kid growing up in the late 70''s/early 80's and I wish daily for playlists of vids like these, instead. Now I'm wondering if any future teacher shortages could be prevented by calling y'all generous learners. Stay humble, remain awesome.
Awesome video, love using an axe but have no knowledge. Your videos give me direction and knowledge. Thank you!
Yay! More axe videos!
Genius!
Right when you said that you knew how it broke I was like "Surely somebody didn't let the weight do the work". I'm both surprised and not surprised that I was correct :).
In my experience Axe handles break in 3 differen ways.
1. Overstriking meaning you hit the wood with the handle and weaken it untill the head flies of when you overstrike the last time.
2. Sidewards motion. Trying to leaver a piece of wood apart by pushing on the handle sideways.
3. Pushing through a strike.
If you don't do any of that during usage you'll probably get a good life expectancy on your handles, no matter what the grain structure looks like. In my experience as a boy scout leader it's mostly #1 that kills the handles. Kids (and adults) just have really bad aim if they're not used to manual labour or moving in general. The good side of that is that I got the same amount of experience in putting in handles in a year, as others do in a decade.
Solid video! Nice to see some axe content again!
I think you are right, though there are definitely plenty of handles that can't take normal strress. I"d also clarify that momentum does the work and while throwing the axe too hard could be a factor, it's usually the push and not the actual momentum. Side pressure is a big issue. I have a vid on axe handle design that talks about it a lot. Side impacts during normal work are a pretty common cause of breakage it seems. slamming into the side of a cut, and hitting the side of an axe on a tree trunk during limbing are two common causes. And yeah, I agree that overstrikes are probably the most common. Thanks for the insight.
Great videos. Been watching your library of vids lately and you seem to get younger as I work my way forward to the more recent ones. Perhaps it's just down to the change over in hair style from the gray dreads. Anyway...rock on. Great content.
interesting. I would have thought you should follow through like when hitting a baseball but this makes more sense.
yeah, it does seem to make intuitive sense to follow through, but it doesn't work out too well.
Thanks for the video! Worst year for bugs here in the last decade, have to feel for all the newcomers from the big city who bought property here sight unseen. I had a mattock handle that split like that...I was too broke for a new one so I bolted it together and used it constantly for the next few years until the head snapped. I'm always amazed at how hard hickory is, and how difficult it is to work - needs skills (and the proper tool) for sure.
I thought about trying to glue this one back together just to see if I could. I really hate this handle though lol.
Most times it is the user-abuser of the axe who overpowers the axe. Brute force attempting to force the entire axe head through the wood abuses the axe - instead of cutting into the wood. An axe head is only meant to cut so deep 1-2 inches - not 6-8 inches per stroke. It means taking more strokes - instead of attempting to karate chop the wood into chopsticks with the axe. The axe is an axe, not a machete, not a hatchet and not a wedge - having a double-blade or an axe head with a poll/butt (wedge head).
Holding the axe with a semi-loose touch, versus grabbing and choking the handle to death (!) and forcing the handle to do the work of the axe head, will overwork the handle (and the user-abuser). Swing the axe handle to increase the axe head velocity (with a sharp blade) which does the entire cutting through the wood. Swing the stroke, and slightly loosen the grip on the downstroke, allowing the handle to send the back-energies out the handle end. Holding tight and choking the axe handle only returns the energy back into your hands, wrists, shoulders - and you become the one who gets chopped instead. It is oxymoronic and axiomatic that that truth is misunderstood. Proper technique doesn't reverberate back up from the axe head into the handle and to the user - or shattering the axe handle. If it does, then the issues are dull axe blade, an improperly cut/dried handle and design, or improper and brutal use of an axe against the wood. That is when accidents happen - most times to the user. Fix those, and you will have clean cuts, intact axes, easy wood cutting and chopping, and not be worn out chopping wood afterwards.
And for god's sake don't use a plastic handle for any chopping with machete, hatchet, or axe if you overpower your device - wood and growth ring handles allows the energy to pass through the wood, while an intact solid plastic handle will beat the crap out of you in quick fashion. Use proper technique and strength, allowing the axe to cut ITS WAY through the wood.
I prefer a fiberglass handle on my splitting maul. It's the only place I"ll use one. not the most comfortable, but with a light touch, it's not so bad and nearly indestructable. Not that I can't use wood handles without breaking too many, I just prefer to worry about splitting wood instead of not splitting handles.
@@SkillCult fiberglass better than those red-orange fluorescent solid plastic handles - at least fiberglass will flex
@@johnlord8337 The fiberglass handles are actually very flexible, but also very dense and that plastic coating is no fun.
Yep, the two beaks I’ve experienced have been along run-out. One was a bad overstrike on my part with a curvy handle. The other was just bucking with a thin ash handle and it broke-sheared off really-right on some slight grain twist. There’s so many unknown factors I just don’t worry about it much anymore. Hang it and swing it. When it breaks, replace it.
Yeah, if your technique is good, which it is. The handles are what they are for the most part. Lots of things beyond our control and some invisible. For most beginners, I think this is the information they need to make handicapped handles last longer.
funnily enough the handles I have had break all were 'perfect' grain orientation, whilst ive had many very poor quality handles do more work and still keep on going. funny how that works eh
Too bad we can't assess wood toughness. Or at least I can't . I think it's a huge factor.
The first handle I broke was pretty fast after purchasing. It’s the lack of experience that made me death grip the handle. I’ve got the tip to put the handle in water over night because it was dried out and not flexing enough. Unless you tell me otherwise, I’m gonna assume it’s more about the right technique..
soaking handles like that is a bad idea unless it's an emergency. Better to tighten it up by driving it on further and adding wedges etc. A handle that is loose in the head is more vulnerable. Like I said, there can be many factors at play, so it's impossible to say for sure.
@@SkillCult I was known with the swelling of wood, but in this case it was recommended to set the handle in water so it would be more flexible to endure the forces at hand and not break so easily.
@@Muis83 Yeah, don't do that either.
@@SkillCult great answer 😁 thanks!
i call it working through the tool... letting the tool do the work
its a feedback thing
very impressive that a handle with that a severe runout on a very hardworking tool as a maul lasted for that long. Hickory is just amazingly tough stuff when you get a proper piece of wood. I guess many of us in Europe envy you guys in North America having hickory whilst we have to stick with ash or elm if we want to go with native species. It is always staggering to see axes and mauls with the handle being half chewed through underneath the eye still not showing any sign of breaking. Ash or elm would never endure nearly half as much chew-off
It can be amazing how much they can take when you get a good one. In old literature, you will not infrequently see other woods recommended and used, even where hickory was available. Rock Maple, White Oak and I think Hornbeam if I remember right, which I'm not really familiar with.
Would you make a 28in ax with black walnut? I don't think I would want to go longer than that with that wood.
I impression of black walnut has never that it is a very tough or strong wood. It seems porous. I'd probably just use something else.
Hey I was wondering if you think a 3.5 dayton council tool axe on a 36 inch handle will be good enough for splitting, bucking and felling? Just an axe for everything.
I tend to prefer smaller lighter axes. Watch my video on the best first axe to get. But you can use that too.
@@SkillCult Ah, thank you.
I got an old hickory handle on a new axe, that I can't thin down more than 1 inch thickness. It's more than a month now, that I've tried with glass, scalpel sharp Moraknivs, the spines of 2 Opinels and a ton of low grit sandpaper.
I've only removed a couple of millimeters so far, which is still very little, compared to how thick modern handles come, and where they should be. For a common size axe like a Boys axe, Forest axe etc, if I'm not mistaken it has to be 0.7 inch thick. More than that and it won't have the proper flexibility, shock absorbance etc. I guess I have to get a good rasp, to finish that job. Any tool, ot method recommendations, would be much appreciated. Thanks
Usually scraping should do pretty well. but a good rasp is nice and very effective. I don't go by dimension, I go by feel. I think .75 is proably a pretty close thickness for hickory though.
Hi Steve!!😀😀
Good to see you my friend!!😀😀
Hows your lymes disease been treating you lately?? You are looking pretty good.
I've never put a curved handle in a splitting maul head.
I've always used a straight handle with virtually no run out in them.
My son used to break them off flush with the head when he was younger. He was 5' 10" and about 220 pounds. He would be working on a big knot and the handle would just shear it off at its weakest point witch was right at the bottom of the head. Now that he has learned how to read a block it hasn't happened in over 15 years. I had to teach him exactly what you talked about in the video and he stopped breaking them.
Take care my friend!!😀😀👍👍
Logger Al
Hey Al! I just happened to have this handle and no other use for it. this maul head has an axe eye, so options are more limited. I would prefer to put on a long fiberglass handle, but it would probably have to be curved, which I'm not stoked about. Might have to just make a wooden handle. I prefer fiberglass for maul handles so I can split wood and not worry about smacking the handle around.
@@SkillCult we always have the actual replacement straight handles for the maul heads like in stock at the hardware store.
There's a big difference between hickory and fiberglass handles.
I just proffer a 36 inch straight hickory handle on my splitting maul.
Over the fiberglass ones.
Nothing feels better than a finely tuned piece of history. LOL!!
Could you show how to re handle a splitter like that?
Probably not. It's just like hanging any other axe. Lots of videos on that out there already.
For most crap handles - they weren't properly cut and dried.
I saw a video of a Chinese man chopping wood with this very weird style. He would do the basic motion of swinging an axe, but as he is bringing the axe down onto the wood, he lets go of his right hand and only holds onto the bottom of the handle with his left. Now, at first i thought that this man's just being silly and trying to look cool, but now i realize that it isn't so dumb after all.
Interesting. If you have a link, I'd love to see it.
second axe handle looks to be motor oil soaked
Just linseed oil. It's old and well used.
Whip it good
Handles also are disposable. They will break. If you aren’t lost or stuck in the wilderness it’s not a problem. I don’t care how careful, how skillful you are…the handle will break. The object is to split, cut wood. That’s the goal. Handles will break. if you strong and have a fast accurate swing and process a ton of wood, eventually you’ll bust the handle. Why do you think rehanging an axe is a thing and the forestry and woodmen teach and get good at rehanging axes? They break handles. It’s a cost benefit analysis. Is processing the wood more important than babying your handle and you can rehang it? Swing away. If you become great at swinging the axe, you should get a bigger heavier ax head and longer handle. I’ve broken handles mainly on axes too small for the acceleration, speed, power I was generating.
I prefer not to break and replace handles.
@@SkillCult don’t we all. But if you’re swinging axes all day or have multiple, it’s a risk worth to take.
مرحبا ستيفن أهلا وسهلا بيك من بغداد تحيه جميلة وحلوه إلى حضرتك آني من متابعيك ومعجبيك تعلمت منك الكثير ممكن رقم هاتفك اذا أمكن لوسمحت
Translation: Hello Stephen, you are welcome from Baghdad. Nice and sweet greetings to you. I am one of your followers and fans. I learned a lot from you. Can I have your phone number if possible, please?
الترجمة إلى الإنجليزية من أجلك