Axe Handles: An Overview: Length, Shape, Wood, Grain, etc...
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- Опубліковано 17 тра 2024
- These are my thoughts about axe handles based only on my experience thus far. While I have done a little research out of curiosity, I’ve tried really hard to speak on only what I’ve found to be consistently true in my use of these tools. I welcome comments and critiques, but please don’t simply repeat something you’ve heard if your experience cannot validate the claim. It only confuses the topic and further perpetuates misconceptions. I do more talking in this video than chopping, but I’ve put in a lot of work editing to try and make it entertaining for you guys. So I hope you enjoy.
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I doubted you and I’m here to say you were right! Put my 3 1/2 on a 28 and love it!
28” is the perfect length, but now that you’ve started down this road I bet you’ll find handle lengths you thought you’d never be able to use very comfortable. I thought 28” was the cutoff, but then I bought a Basque axe with a 24” handle and found it easy to use. 24 really does seem like the cutoff for me, although I’d prefer 25-28”. In any case, I’m glad you gave it a shot.
Another great document for those researching this subject today and years in the future. Thank you!
Thanks, just my thoughts at this point. I’m sure some of them will change, but the basics will remain the same.
Brilliant video, going to trigger some folks for sure but I agree with what was said
Thanks for the support. I’m just speaking from my experience, not really trying to trigger people on purpose, although when making it I realized it would, which is why I added the parody clips-trying to make it more light-hearted. Some people take this subject way too seriously.
Excellent information, great video. Thank you.
Most real axe guys should be able to agree with 95% or more of this video. I think you covered the big picture quite effectively, and dabbled in some of the special circumstances as well. Thumbs up
I feel like that’s got to be the case based on my experience. I do think there’s plenty of room for preference, but I just don’t see how you could argue certain points after using axes for awhile to chop.
@@KevinsDisobedience not sure if I've mentioned it to you in the comment section before. But give my new channel a look...
Great video. I enjoyed the historical photos as well. Thanks for your efforts in putting it together.
Thanks you, it takes more time than it may seem.
Really enjoyed that. It was like watching a tv show.
Thanks, I’m trying to improve with each post.
Thanks for the info and the chuckles .
Sorry just seeing this, but I’m glad you enjoyed it. Hope you decide to sub and stick around for more. Giveaway coming up when we got 1k!
Well explained and agreed upon! Great content brother just discovered your channel
I worry more about run out than I do grain orientation. I suppose I do allow some runout as long as it's all going the same direction from foot to head, if that makes sense. What's a no no for my is when Grain changes direction . Straight handles I worry even less. Also aggre with everything you said about length
We are definitely on the same page.
So you mean if the grain runs out the opposite way from the axe head that the handles more vulnerable? Interesting, I hadn’t even thought of that. I’ll have to think about that. Have you had any handles break like that?
@@KevinsDisobedience shoot me an email ckillinger2@yahoo.com
Thank you for explaining "run out". I thought maybe I was going crazy or something because I always understood it like you explained it. Another awesome video!
I don’t know what’s to understand. Trees have grain. Of course you’re going to see grain in a handle. But maybe I’m wrong, I just can’t see how. Thanks Killer.
@@KevinsDisobedience no, you are right. People are crazy haha!
I've got a Plumb Boy Scout ax that I bought new about a half century ago. The grain orientation in the handle is about perfect. One time, maybe 45 years ago, I was chopping down a tree--probably maple--and the handle split from the shoulder to about 2/3s of the way to the end. I did not strike the handle on the tree, it was a solid blade hit! As a "dumb kid" I took some Elmer's white glue and glued it back together. A little bit of sanding along the glue line and that handle still works just fine.
I try to keep the ax thing fun and have been playing around with lengths, shapes, grain orientation, sap/heart wood, etc. I made an ash handle with the grain 90 degrees from "perfect" to see what happens... thus far nothing. My handles range from 28 to 32. The longest ones are old handles... one on my grandfather's double bit and the other on a Black Raven. I believe both of those handles were replaced at least once. The last couple axes I hung have handles in the 29-30 range. They all work but I'm leaning towards about 29-30 as my ideal.
It’s amazing how much wood glue holds. As far as length goes, I think you’ve pretty much come to the same conclusion I have, although I’ve been getting used to 25-24” handles out of necessity, as I have to pack them in further to get to certain parts of my property.
Good stuff, thank you for the education.
Thanks for watching. Just sharing my thoughts is all. Nothing dogmatic. Hope you’ll stick around. Thanks again.
Finally, somebody points out that nonsense of grain orientation myth. Thank you, sir!
No problem. It’s not a big concern. Run out will get ya every once and again, but just hang it and bang it. When it breaks, do it again.
Good stuff man. Thanks
Thanks, hope it was both entertaining and informing. I appreciate you taking the time to comment.
I thoroughly enjoyed his video. Lots of good advice and explications. I personally like a nice big palm swell, but like you said, it’s all personal preference. So many people forget that an axe is only as useful as the person swinging it. If you customize an axe in a way that makes you more comfortable/accurate, than you will get the maximum performance out of it… this is not a static environment. Everyone will have a different idea on what works best.
That’s my big thing on this channel. Experiment and think for yourself. Don’t just repeat what you heard someone say, even if they’re a smart person you trust. And on palm swells, I’m actually starting to come around to bigger swells on 3.5 + lb heads.
@@KevinsDisobedience absolutely! First hand experience is the best teacher. Making my own handles taught me more about the ergonomics than anything. Made mistakes, corrected them, and came up with the perfect handle for myself.
Thank you for the very thought through and informative video, I learned a lot! Newbie question. How do you properly store replacement axe handles? Do you put linseed oil on the ends and store them hanging so they don't warp or take on moisture?
I’m glad to hear that. Thank you for taking the time to comment. Means a lot. And that’s not a stupid question. I address it in some other vids. Yes, it doesn’t hurt to put Linseed on the ends, but you don’t really need to. That’s something you want to do when a blank is still green. Replacement handles should mostly be cured. The key word there is mostly. That’s why I suggest to put them next to a dehumidifier if possible. You don’t need to hang them-that’s probably overkill. I just keep them stored in a long box next to the dehumidifier, and I like to keep them there for at least six month before I hang them. Here’s a link to a vid where you can see how I store them: ua-cam.com/video/K6p_YFSw2Mw/v-deo.html. If you don’t want to watch the whole thing, skip ahead to 30 secs. Hope that helps.
Re: grain orientation.
It matters with ash. The grains tend to come apart when being smashed straight on. This is a feature of ash that makes it so wonderful for basket weaving. I’m not 100% sure if this happens with all species of ash, but it happens with black ash.
I experienced this personally with ash. Had slight runout and sheared right off in cold weather
Just saw this and have been watching a lot of your videos. I really like your no-nonsense approach to everything. I’ve seen so many UA-cam “experts” go on and on about grain orientation, run out, heartwood etc and it’s honestly kind of ridiculous, unless they’ve run legitimate tests these are all just word of mouth things that get passed down. Sometimes a handle just breaks, but it’s a handle ya can’t expect them to last forever with heavy use.
Thanks man, I’m glad you enjoyed it. It’s a fun tool to use in the woods. Handles make the axe in my opinion
Noice, plenty thanks, wonderful video. Am refurbishing 3 axes and been trying to find out what i need to know for the handles. I definitely will feel much more comfortable buying some handles now.
Sorry just seeing this. I’m glad it helped. Hope you decide to sub and stick around. Lots more axe content coming. And a giveaway coming up within a week or two.
@@KevinsDisobedience haha yup already been subscribed to you :) thats exciting heck yeah, cant wait!
good video, well explained.
I have a few thought here: 1. grain orientation and run out helps when you got too much over strikes. 2. they use long handle back then, as you said, nobody is chopping down big tree nowadays. Also, nobody bucking that big of a trees all day everyday now. The long handle help when you bucking trees with more than 16 inch diameter all day everyday, it just let you stand straighter and less stain on your back. Timber sport people use short handle to buck things more than 16 inch because accuracy matter the most, they don't need to chop all day, even in training.
I concur. Everything you said makes sense and speaks to my experience as well.
I've not had any of my hardware store handles break but they will warp over time despite not getting wet, being left in the sun, and being well treated with BLO. This has led me to replacing them if the warp is severe enough.
Nicely done video!
Yes, I’ve had cheap tool handles warp before. That’s a good point. Something I’ll mention in a follow up video, which I’m planning now. I think the warping is due more to improper curing than anything else.
@@KevinsDisobedience That and perhaps the grain is not very straight.
Some may trade off accuracy for comfort,I really like the looks/feel of a curvy handle and I don't make a living working with wood so it works for me-love your channel super informative
Just be clear, I don’t think they are less accurate, but you raise a valid point about trading off accuracy for comfort. I’ll have to think about that. Thanks
Awesome video. I have a lot of these same things I ponder. I love the coloring of the axe handle you showed that you cut the big Killinger palm swell off of. Any chance you remember what you did to get that coloring?
Good to see you in the doobly-doo again-that’s what I call the comments 🤷. Anyway, you’re in luck. I recorded the process: ua-cam.com/video/ki1OMhPnND0/v-deo.html. But I used Dark Walnut WATCO first and then Linseed oil. But now I’d recommend topping it with Killinger’s Snake juice, as the it adds to that dark color. Good luck.
My granddad always said that " sycamore " made the best handles. It would bend and not break. Wish I could find some to try, one of these days. Thx for sharing....
Sycamore, really? I’ve never heard anybody say anything good about sycamore, even in on the literature it’s considered water logged and not good for lumber or firewood. There’s loads around. I’m all about experimenting. Give it a go.
If I was going to make my own axe video, I'd probably say everything you said (in general). Though one could ask if you've ever taped the end of your axe handle to mimic your hockey stick, though you probably didn't go out on the ice bare handed.
I have actually tried taping a double bit. My main issue with it was it got gooey in the sun, but with gloves it’s not too bad.
I have one 28" handle and that's on my Kelly Perfect Cruiser double bit. That axe is my sweetheart. It doesn't split well (which is mainly what I use an axe for), but is nimble and sharp. I've been hanging my axes on 32" handles and like the feel. I will say that my accuracy sucks, but I just attributed that to me. I recently bought a really nice splitting, Rockaway Pattern axe hung on a terrible, fat, straight, 36" handle. Was going to put it on the 32" handle that just arrived today, but maybe I'll hang my Plumb Jersey Pattern on that one and try the splitting head on a 28"-30" handle.
ThAnks for taking the time to comment. I can almost promise you if you use more 30-28” handles you’ll never go back, especially on splitting axes.
all very interesting Kevin. in Italy, where I live, handles are mostly straight, I don't know if that's always been so but I like straight handles a lot. As for length, since we typically use slip-fit straight handles, they come very long, even 36" or more!! I'm not sure why but that allows the user to cut them to their preferred length. Which also means no palm swell. I'm 6'2" and i like 26"-ish handles for pretty much all I do, and I use them a lot as I get most of my firewood with hand tools, though I don't own a big axe collection.
One thing I will say though is that I do like longer handles on a limbing hatchet, 16-18". Here it's quite popular to limb with such hatchets, and I can assure you that if you do it as a means to keep your family warm and not as a camping weekend you want to save energy and time, and a light 1lb thin-bitted hatchet on such a longish handle is really great for small limbing. That or a billhook.
Agree on everything else, I'm not sure about grain orientation or wood type, I never broke a handle I made to be honest but I did break a couple and it seemed a combination of run-out but mostly bad wood (could have been badly cured like you brilliantly pointed out, or left in the rain or whatever)
Hey thanks for commenting. First time I’ve seen you in the comments. So welcome to the channel. And we seem to agree about ha due length, although I’m not a fan of slip fit handles, but that’s just because I haven’t had very good luck with keeping them tight. As for the rest of it, I think so much of it is just down to preference and what you’ve gotten used to over the years.
@@KevinsDisobedience thank you Kevin, I hardly comment at all, and I'm not on social media either, so I've been skulking really... now I've badly cut 2 fingers with a billhook so I've got time to watch some videos. it's interesting to see a burgeoning community of axe enthusiasts, I've followed some videos of Stephen (Skillcult), then Ben Scott and recently found yours, but in general I don't have too much time to be online and just prefer to be outdoors. I also share your desire to acquire first hand experience as you mention on the other video, though I just can't experiment with everything and sometimes handed down information (in the form of tradition) comes in handy. My background is a bit different from the typical bushcraft person (I didn't even know this word until recently), homesteading really is how I spend most of my time, and in doing so I try to use hand tools as much as I can, not necessarily as a challenge but as a concious choice, I like it that way. And so with axes. I've only read excerpt of Daniel Quinn, but I try to move in the "leaver" direction, if you're familiar with that.
have a good day!
Well thanks for taking the time to subscribe and comment. It means a lot to us. And like you, I only heard the word bushcraft a few years ago. To me what we do in the woods was always referred to as hiking or camping. I’m not really a bushcrafter, just a guy who likes spending as much time as possible in the woods.
Good vid mate, well put together. I'm all for vertical grain though. Had several handles with horizontal grain pop on me, especially if there's any damage near the eye. One of my old faves, with no eye damage, failed the other day splitting seasoned ironbark (It's like concrete). Handle flexed on impact and popped the front of the top curve, a piece about 40 cm long and 1cm thick simply sprung off the handle. Vintage axe. Interestingly when I bought it from an old competitive woodchopper, the palm swell had been cut off the same way you do yours.
Fails on perfectly horizontal? Run-out? I’d love to see pics if you have any. Definitely interested in real world breaks. Thanks.
@@KevinsDisobedience do u know how I can send pics?
Can you send them via Facebook messenger?
@@KevinsDisobedience I don't have any social media stuff, can I send in email?
Good stuff, keep the content coming.
The palm swell talk was insightful, not many people go vary indepth on the palm swell aspects of the handle but if your modding and fiddling with your handles enough, your gonna come across situations where you have little to no palm swell left... Ive found I prefer a small-medium palm swell... I like to gripe the entire palm swell in my hand, fully griped with no fingers hanging off the end... with a "small" swell my pinky runs in line with the butt end of the axe handle... with a more "medium" sized swell theres about a 1/2"-3/4" of handle sticking out past my picky.
i'm 6'4" and thought longer axes in the 34-35inch range were ideal for me... until I made the chop and started using 30-32" handles and id never go back to 34"+ handles now.
I find 30-32" is ideal for an all around work axe at my height, I also have a preference for straight handles but dont mind a slightly curved handle.
28-32" is a great work axe length, I really like 24-26" handles for a light weight camp axe or "pack axe" for the occasions I dont want to bring along a full sized 30 incher... but truthfully I have no gripe carrying around a 30" axe camping in the Canadian woods.
One area that extra handle length can be useful is if your the type of person to split rounds on the ground vs. using a chopping block, though for many people 28-30" is still gonna be fine for ground splitting but it is one of the few tasks regularly done with axes where handle length could be a factor...
but as you noted handle length changes can be adjusted for by stance changes, at my height, 30" is perfectly fine for ground splitting in a nice solid athletic type of stance, 32" offers a bit more ease, as in, a little less knee bending and a 28" involves a bit more effort and cautiousness with quite a bit more knee bending.
Trial and error is the only way to really find out what works best for each persons personal axe needs and being able to confidently rehang an axe goes along way in giving confidence to experiment with various handle mods... since if it breaks, its no biggie you get to do it all again and try something else new.
It becomes part of the fun of owning and using axes is the variety and near limitless modifications and tweaks you can make to them with a little knowledge, patience and time.
Thank you, Tyson, for taking the time to comment and share your experience with the community. It seems you’ve experimented quite a bit yourself, and that’s basically what I’m advocating for here. Don’t take my word for it. Go find out what you like for yourself. Seems you’ve done a lot of that work already. What’s thoughts on hatchets and handle length?
@@KevinsDisobedience My hatchet usage is kinda lacking these days, If I do use one its more for carving (dont do enough of) and odd kindling tasks.
I like my hatchets in the 13-18 in range.
13" for a carving hatchet and a slightly longer 18" for a work hatchet, 16" is the best of both worlds but theres times a slightly longer hatchet just feels better in the hands.
and with that said, I'm a big fan of what some call a "half axe" a hatchet head on a boys axe handle.
I've got a 1 3/4 hatchet head thats hung on a 24' handle and for me its the perfect little pack axe/splitting hatchet.
Having the long handle to be able to get a proper two handed swing makes a world of difference... chopping, splitting, limbing it does it all and its a fun conversation piece around the campfire to folks that have never seen/heard of a "half axe" before.
I use it more then my hatchets these days for kindling tasks since Its great for one or two handed splitting, but for carving tasks you've still gotta have a good ol short handled hatchet in the arsenal.
@@KevinsDisobedience Also just to expand my thoughts a bit...
I think a half axe makes for the perfect "kids axe"
since the boys axe is what it is, maybe a hatchet head on a boys axe handle should be coined a "kids axe."
It will certainly be the axe I use to teach my niece and nephew axemanship skills, once they're a bit older/bigger.
imo it seems to be a really great size and weight for kids usage and safer in ways with the added handle length.
and to rant a little.. is it just me or is it kinda wild to think that hatchets are what so many start out with since they can be so much more dangerous in nature if your not paying close addition to the task at hand, some serious injuries can occur.. which is true of any axe but its especially true with hatchets and shin splitters...
which seems to be the size many folks want to start out with these days because of the backyard fire/camp tasks that an axe/hatchet is mostly used for by people nowadays, but I truly think a standard boys axe or even a "kids axe" would be a much safer and more useful starter axe then a hatchet or danger zone shin splitting axe...
and if one finds they need something smaller/lighter or bigger/larger then they'd at least have a good reference point after some experience with a boys axe.
in summary, im saying a 28-30" boys axe would be great for a novice adult or teenager to start out with
and a 24-26" "kids axe" would be great for youth to learn with but thats just my opinion... I learnt with a hatchet and boys axes in my youth, then I quit using axes for about 6-8 years and when i finally regained kinship with axes I started back out with a 2.5lb long 34" axe (barely if ever had used such a long axe) then went down to a 2 1/4lb 28" boys axe and finally settled on 30" being my preferred handle length for 2lb-3 1/2lb axes, for a 4-6lb head I'd likely go 32"
but for my current axe needs a 3 1/2lb, 30" straight handled axe is more then enough, a 2 - 2.5lb on a 28-30" handle is the type of axe i use most though as my general "work axe"
I’m hoping you do a video about wood species in the future. I reckon most handles in North America are hickory because of its reasonable strength, reasonable water resistance, and great flexibility / shock absorption.
However, I find it’s kind of romantic to use local wood species. We don’t have hickory where I live in northern NB, Canada, but so far I’ve used sugar maple, white birch, yellow birch, black ash, and black locust. I feel like these woods do just as well with careful use, they’re acclimatized to our extreme conditions, and they just kind of look cool.
Keep the content coming.
Thanks man, yes I do hope to do just that. I’ve only really just begun experimenting. I’ve used a couple of ash (broke one), a few beech (feels a bit stiff), a white oak, hackberry (very promising)…I think that’s it so far.
Such high-quality content! I appreciate the originality, saying whatever works for you. Nevermind the "cultists" :). Seems to me that, regardless of decades of experience, the best of the best in any field are humble, keep an open mind and keep on learning new stuff.
Sorry man, UA-cam. Ever notified me of your comment. And I agree, the guys I know in the trades that tell you how long they’ve been working or how good they are are not the guys you want to hire.
@@KevinsDisobedience Cheers! If technology didn't fail us so often, I'd have less work to do! 😉
Nice axe with that huge knot in it, really shows how much wood can vary. All axe handles will break regardless, some last longer than others. All my handles except one has run out to some degree, I don't think ill break one anytime soon from casual use. No need to stress over it, if it break ill just replace it.
I feel the same way about handles
Longer handles really came into play in the PNW where they were using doubles and chopping big wood or standing on logs and chopping between their feet (because of steep slopes and lots of undergrowth and ground clutter) I agree 28-30 is my preference.
Yep, absolutely. That’s where a 34-36” is almost necessary. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I can see the curve putting the head farther away from your leg when you bring it around for another strike if you're using the technique for chopping that I was taught.
The guys you saw who were all choked up on 18in hammers just didn't know how to use them. If you're used to using them 18 inch hammers are way better. This is coming from a guy who drives a lot of fence staples though.
Did Kelly ever make axes with straight handles? I received a Kelly phantom bevel Jersey pattern axe head on a straight handle a while ago.
Not sure, you might be able to find old catalogues online.
@@KevinsDisobedience Sorry I didn't respond sooner, but Google hardly notifies me of any responses anymore. I just decided to check my Gmail in order to see if I'd missed anything. Thanks!
I read somewhere Robert mann was the first to make the American style double bit in Pennsylvania. would be cool to see the first models he produced
I have a special PA vintage Axe I’m going to showcase on the channel real soon. Stay tuned!
@@KevinsDisobedience I just had a chance to buy a kelly 1889 patented double bit. It looked so awesome. Also, where would you buy a shorter race axe style handle with a bigger palm swell ? Been looking at Ox head handles, I am never quick enough to get a killinger. I am starting to get into big heads on a 27-30 in haft. Just built a jersey on a 28in straight haft from house handles.
I use only curvy Handles cause here in europe the Gransfors american felling axe is the only one with a straight handle on it.
I like to try if staight are more accurate-like Cook said.
Sorry just seeing this. They’re not common here either. I really doubt they’re any more accurate. I don’t notice a difference anyway.
I think the preferred handle length has a lot to do what you started out using.
I grew up using axes, mostly clearing fencelines and before I was old enough to use a chainsaw I got stuck limbing a lot. Where were the child labor laws back then. LOL We also did things like building rafts and forts type structures out in the woods when we were little. The only axes we had available to use were 36 inches. That's still the size I prefer when dealing with big hardwoods. I do like shorter, lighter axes for small stuff though. I may try hanging one of my old double bits on a 32" and another on a 28" just to see. Maybe I'll change my mind. I'll have to order one because around here you can only buy the 36" handles in town and lately they are all junk for some reason.
I was watching Ben and he recommended checking you out so I subscribed. I'm an axe addicted guy still searching for that perfect axe that I'll never find. O well it gives me the excuse to keep buying axes without feeling guilty about it. :)
Thanks for the sub, brother. And yeah, I agree I think we can get used to anything, but do give a 32”-28” a try. I haven’t found anyone who doesn’t immediately switch to shorter handles afterwards. Notice Buckin’ has switched to shorter handles even for splitting in the last year. The perfect axe doesn’t exist-that’s why we need more. Lol at least that’s what I tell my wife.
@@KevinsDisobedience agreed, it makes a night and day difference... it can feel a bit short at first if your coming from longer axes but once you put it to use the benefits quickly are noticeable and it becomes quite awkward and cumbersome to use anything over 32"
My experience exactly. A 34-36” handle feels like a bowling ball on a long string. Lol
I have to say that I disagree that there should be no axes or hatchets between 14 and 20 " For carpentry with wooden joints like timber framing etc, an axe between 18-20" is pretty good IMO. You don't usually swing it like we do in forestry work, but we basically use it single handed often with the assistance of the left hand (if you're right handed) to increase accuracy in chopping out joints. It's just doesn't work as well with a hatchet sized handled and a longer handle is gonna be pretty akward
That’s a fair argument for those awkward sizes I suppose, but you don’t think a 24” handle would serve you just as well, and then it’s still useable when you need to chop? I’m asking, as I’ve never done any Timber framing. Thanks for commenting.
@@KevinsDisobedience a 24" would definitely be to big for most tasks in carpentry, your body will be in the way and the handle end has a bad habit of going for the groin, haha. Also, your hand will become very tired as your are using it mostly single handed. However, for scarf joints larger axes can be very useful for chopping out the angled plane. Another, thing; i really like long handles like 36" for splitting axes, I have just hung a head on a 37" hickory stick and it works beautifully and is very safe. Apart from that I agree with you. Especially for bucking smaller stuff long handles are very akward
.
I’d have to do the work to be able to make my mind up about a 20” axe being useful in Timber framing, but since I haven’t I’ll defer to you, but I’ve done enough splitting in my life to know I don’t like anything over 32”. 34-36” just feel so damn awkward and unnecessary. But to each his own. If you chop on a block it does provide a little extra safety in case you miss, so there is that.
Cook has his bias and a straight stick has its place. But a curved handle allows a little more wrist power at the moment just before bit strike because of a more ergonomic wrist angle. I hadn’t seen this video until now but good job.
Well thanks for checking it out. If you’re into axes, definitely check out the rest of the channel and consider subscribing. I do lots of axe content.
I checked out some of your content and sub’d. Good work!
I do a bunch of stuff but have never made a video. I follow Chris killinger and have used several of his sticks. I’m into old tools, homesteading, traditional skills.
Getting ready to do a controlled burn on 20 acres of native prairie. Thought about doing my first video on that but things happen so fast and a lot can go wrong while I’m fussing with video. Pyromaniacs delight!
Not too fussy about grain orientation myself , but when making handles I usually default to the 'accepted norm' ie growth rings parallel to the axe cheeks. The one place I have found this to be really important is when using white oak. This makes pretty decent handles for hatchets and light axes, but oak has a distinct tendency to check, or split and fail, in the plane of the figure, ie at 90 degrees to the growth rings.
Sure, obviously it makes sense to orient that grain that way if you can. I just don’t think it’s the big of a deal if you can’t. And for weaker woods, especially on long handles, it’s going to be more important. Thanks for commenting
@@KevinsDisobedience
Agreed as a general rule
Also grain direction is of greater importance in hanging some of the larger vintage English Axes where I have seen eye lengths up to 3 7/8" and eye widths to 1 3/16". This clearly dictates a high shoulder, which tends to be a weak point if grain is not parallel to the eye. That's a lot of short grain just waiting to fail is the fit gets sloppy so getting [and keeping] the fit and wedging good and tight is especially important in such axes.
Yeah I was rather flippant about it in these handle videos, mainly to counter the conventional wisdom that is too often repeated without any thought or testing. I’ve changed my mind on runout a little too. I’ve always thought it was more important than grain orientation, but I wasn’t convinced it matter much either, but I’ve since had a handle break right along some runout when making the bottom of the felling cut. Looking forward to more conversation with you. I hope you’ll subscribe and stick around. We need more calm, rational back and forth in the axe community, as opposed to the screaming matches that too often take place of social media. Thanks
@@KevinsDisobedience
I wasn't getting too much impression of 'flippant' at all Kevin, 'common sense & down to earth', I would say. Same reason I like skilcult's vids. Never accepts conventional 'wisdom', but thinks things through, has a try at it, refines it and, if he sees benefit, invites you to try it yourself. 30 odd years ago, I had a handle let go along runout when splitting rounds. The spearlike end finished up ripping a 3 inch gash in my shin. Lot of blame on me, I'd had a couple of beers, was not in a good mood and had a delivery deadline - in short I was going at it like a madman and probably pushing through. Still have axes with runout and happy to use them but much more sympathetic to the fact they 'might' have a degree of limitation and use them accordingly. Too old now for much axe work but have always set aside blanks for future axe handles, mostly selected for 'optimum grain'. When you make your own handles, you can afford to be choosy. I have one beauty in ripple figured ash that I am saving for something a bit 'special'
For those who have to buy handles, buy the best you can and don't stress out over grain
My advice is to select some good wood and have a go at making your own
[ps finished the firewood load and got a dozen stitches in my leg next day]
Well thanks. I’ve made a few handles from scratch now. But it’s so time consuming and I’m eager to test diapers at this point, so some will get custom handles, but most will have to be store bought. The length is mostly what I care about. Good short handles are hard to find. Glad to hear you didn’t get hurt too badly.
SUPER! 👍👍👍🤝
Thanks for watching!
I agree with experimenting,there may be a better shape out there rather than sticking with the tried and tested 👌
And I’m sure it will differ for everyone.
I've been wondering wether there is anyone else who also holds the axe with the palm swell pressed into the palm. I've always done that as well but my reason for it is that my hands have quite stiff joints so it's important that the butt of the handle rotates slightly within my palm so that my wrist doesn't bend too steeply and cause discomfort. I tend to have quite minimal palm swells on my handles.
Hey brother, I’m glad to hear there’s another guy out there who doesn’t like the big swells that seem to be getting more popular these days. I’m still experimenting, but basically unless the axe is over 3.5 pounds I don’t want much of a swell. Keep swinging!
Would you ever do an axe sharping video from different stages?
You mean like how I keep my axes sharp? That’s a good idea actually. Yes, I will do that. Give me some time.
Designing some curvy handles. Would love to have some conversation.
Sure, hit me up on Facebook messenger if you like. Tbh I’m not a big user of curvy handles, but I’d be glad to tell you what I like and don’t like. More than anything, I’m happy to hear someone wants to design axes within a community of users.
I’ll reach out for sure. Been making and testing. I think your input would help for sure.
My 18" hudsons bay pattern is my favorite axe.
It’s a cool looking pattern, no doubt.
Grain orientation doesn’t matter if you know how to hang an axe, if I see a dark wood handle or heart wood handle I’ll pick it up, I don’t care which way the grain runs, I like those better than sap wood
They certainly look cool. I’ve got one on a Hudson Bay. No issues so far.
Usefull for me.😗😗😗😗😗😎😆
Cool, I hope it helped. Hope to see you stick around. Cheers
I just hit pause at 13:49 to tell you you said the moat important line. It doesnt matter if you know how to use an ax.
I see people break axes because they try to hit home runs instead of using physics.
Yeah, accuracy will make you more efficient long before power does.
Lol, hahahahahha, I love folks who harp on some of the nitty gritty. Nothing wrong with paying attention to detail & preferring a certain grain -- If you are breaking handles - primarily it is about how you swing & or fail to swing & hit the neck of your axe -- how you store the axe take care of it. They'll break if you abuse it -- Do the best you can -- swap a handle if you have a few mistake swings. No big deal. The head will last a life time -- history
Yeah, just enjoy the woods and happy chopping.
hey brother your audio isnt synced up with video.
Really, just watched it. Seemed fine.
Maybe still uploading. I’ll ask a few others. Thanks for letting me know.
@@KevinsDisobedience I think you're right. Its got a little better. I was too fast jumping on your video! :)
Np. Thanks for letting me know. I think it’s because I’m shooting in 4K on the new iPhone now. I’ve noticed some lag too in some clips, but I hope to have it entirely ironed out soon. Thanks again.
The video/audio was off when I started watching also but it cleaned up over time.
Why does an ax handle have curve?...it's about offsetting the weight of the pol.
Not really sure, tbh; no one knows, really. D. Cook argues that straight handles are more balanced, something about lateral axis of pivot, which I never quite understand no matter how many times I read it.
Kevin.. do this, go watch a UA-cam video on Tanner Wilcox chanel, he only has one video. It's called 'Straight VS Curved axe handles'. He is in the industry and will give you a little background that perhaps the books don't. Watch it, I know you'll at least find it interesting. Colin
Great video, but now I feel like a nob with my 35 inch splitting axe. 💩
Thanks Michael, if you’re used to it it doesn’t matter that much in a splitting axe. But I bet you if you try a 32” splitting axe, you’ll never go back. And then after you try a 30” handle, 32” will feel long. Lol
Im with kevin, If it works for you thats all that matters.
That said, im 6'4" and thought longer axes in the 34-35inch range were ideal for me... until I made the chop and started using 30-32" handles and id never go back to 34"+ handles now.
At my height I find 30-32" is ideal for an all around work axe.
32 inch handle is more safe for your feets than a 25 inch you are further from the head of the axe
There’s some truth to this often repeated adage, but I think all the other reasons for wanting a short handle trump this bit of conventional wisdom. Also plenty of ways to stay safe when splitting with a short handle, which is all the long handles really applies to...check out my Safety Sally Series if you want. There’s one on splitting. Thanks for watching.
@@KevinsDisobedience thx and continu your good work your channel is cool peace ✌️
Thanks brother. I’lol keep uploading if you guys keep watching.
Lots of good info here. However... Literally thousands of years of wood workers totally disagree with your opinions on grain direction. If you don't care about longevity, as in using it everyday for generations, it matters less, but they used to make these things to last over 100yrs. There's Literally books full of structural data on this, it's not everything, but grain direction definitely matters.
Yeah, I’m aware. Good grain definitely makes sense. It’s just there’s not a lot of wood like that. And we’re not using a single axe to chop with every day anymore, so probably matters less for us is all I’m saying. Seems to, anyway, in my experience. Runout is a problem though. I’ve had several handles break that way.
@@KevinsDisobedience fair enough, good point. Runout has been my major nemesis as well.
Какие вы болтуннннн в американцы емоееее,и Украину заразили своей болтовней галимой