There's been many times I use the word leisurely when talking about some splitting im doing. When not swinging like a wild man, being efficient, it can really be a pleasure. Bluegrass Outdoors has a channel on here and can really pump out firewood fast. He stands his rounds up in his videos. His pace would be way beyond leisurely for me. It's very impressive. Him and Mo are the best splitters I've seen on UA-cam.
It makes sense that you are doing different movements, and therefore use different muscle groups. So, you don't over fatigue a small set of muscles, but instead, spread it out over your whole body. I totally agree with you. I'd also suggest switching hands once in a while. Also, one handed. I often act like I am fighting.
Awesome to see a new axe video from the axe man himself! I love that way of splitting but I use an axe instead. Some axe heads is way harder to get out of the wood then others. I found out that the cross section of the axe head behind the edge should be slighty elipse in shape not square. The head with the elipse cross section is way easier to get out of the wood! If I was good at making videos I would make a video about it lol
I split a lot of wood 4 or 5 cords a year for me. I have tried this style, I like it. I felt like my chances to hit myself were increased, more variables. I do use this style when I am fresh!
With a sharp or thin axe, you really have to be on your toes. I feel much, much safer using an obtuse maul. But there are other things you can do, like keeping a longer distance. like anything, it takes time to have confidence in the swing and accumulate enough background to understand what can happen and how to avoid it.
I don't have that much wood to split but looks fun. I don't use a stump but a 2 x 10 or I pound a hole in the ground with our soft soil. I think I have the same maul and standing them up gives the kids something to do.
For me splitting is about producing firewood, so Ive learned to conserve energy yet with decent technique dish out enough of a blow to get her done. Sometimes u need more sometimes less but learning to 'read' a round will help u put the ax where it needs to be to efficiently dissect a round. Good to see an ax vid from the skilman himself. I like apples an all but u take it too far lol but its good with the ax'e, I like them vids more. I use edible flaxseed oil I source from my chemist on all muh handles these days. Its darn good stuff. Thanks skilman.
Nice. I hate having to pick up and pick up again wood to split, really wears my lower back out, but with our Australian hardwood I cut and burn (mostly red box, yellow box and stringybark) I usually really need a big block and a full strength swing with a sharp splitter/maul. Also with big rounds, hitting it in the middle is often useless, it will just bounce or stick, you need to split the outer ring of wood all off the round before the centre will split easily. I do like it when I can just smash them on the ground freestyle like you are doing, but it’s not often I can do it with my wood.
I hear that stuff a lot from aussies. I have mostly hardwoods, but most are not too hard to split. I'm a big fan of the slabbing stuff off of big rounds too. I can usually make almost one piece of firewood per blow, while someone else is trying to split a big block in half for some unknown reason lol. thanks for commenting.
@@SkillCult thanks, yeah, some of our hardwood splits pretty easy, but a lot has some pretty twisty sticky grain where you have to get a lot of kinetic energy in your axe head to pop it-which on the flip side often sends it flying off a long way! I’m tempted to try the splitting in the car tyre thing for that stuff. And yeah, the slabbing off off big rounds with a firewood piece per blow can be done really well with my wood. Other times I can go round with a few blows and seperate half or more of the outer ring/donut from the centre, and leave it just attached and holding with some fibres, and then split off individual pieces from the ring while it is just still being held. Saves a lot of bending and picking up. I quite enjoy splitting wood. Need to make myself a chainsaw horse though, for stacks of smaller logs.
@@ontic2354 That stupid saw horse is probably 18 to 19 years old, sitting outside the whole time, barely holding together. I've patched it so many times and it still works lol. I almost made a new one this year and I was like screw it, slap on some plywood and go.
@@SkillCult lol. It does look a bit like my old one I made out of recycled cypress fencing posts. It worked OK, but was too heavy to move easily and was always threatening to fall apart. I’m thinking of welding up a simple metal one, with one strip of sacrificial timber in case the saw dips too low.
here's some really unusual splitting advice: just stop wasting your time splitting all your damn wood. if you have the space you can just get it a couple years sooner allowing enough time for it to dry out unsplit. and then when you're starting a fire, load your stove primarily with unsplit wood but with a little split wood to use as kindling to get the fire big enough to get the unsplit stuff going. there i just saved you years of your life.
I don't have the space and I need more control over burn time and wood size. I split my wood to the sizes that work for me. You shouldn't need the hyperbole to make a good point.
I wish we were neighbors. I think we'd dislike each other's politics, but we would absolutely team up on everything else. Also nice truck, gets the job done 👍🏻 is that a Makita saw?
yeah, it's a Makita, but it's really a Dolmar. Makita bought Dolmar is I think the story. It has a big bore mod so it's something like 82 or 84 cc I don't remember. Its pretty bad ass and starts consistently. You can get them for cheap from home depot. They rent them out so many times and then sell them. I think the saw was about 225.00 and the big bore kit was around 125.00 Without the mod, it's kind of a heavy saw, but with the mod, it's very powerful for it's weight. Most people are in a camp, which means they are sheep, which means the only conversation worth having is how not to be such a sheep, which is usually futile. Actual discourse is almost dead. People just sling the propaganda they consume. Anyone that identifies heavily with a political ideaology or group is usually not worth the attempt at a discussion. That is where the thinking ends and the bleating begins. Until that changes, the outlook will always be unfavorable.
There's a video on how to choose a proper hatchet, where he plagerizes Horace Kephart because he doesn't have his own opinions apparently, then demonstrates cutting down a tree like he's never done it before, and leaves stubs all over the wood. total newb.
I'm 5'2" and 66 years old. The piece of equipment I need is the man part. Just not as strong anymore. I'm getting kind of sad about it this year because I can't afford a log splitter and can't stand the thought of when the time comes that I won't be able to heat with wood anymore. Thank you for the tips.
I rent a wood splitter once a year. Costs around $130 for a day. The wood I have is spongy cottonwood, and it just absorbs maul blows as hard as I can swing it.
@@mattv5281 Thank you. A great suggestion but I don't drive and have no one to help me. I asked a little church a couple years ago that's a half a block away if there were some men who would help me with getting a log splitter rental here and they completely ignored my email. 🤷♀️
Most the time, we have to ask for help in person, with unwavering eye contact and conviction. This can be uncomfortable, but you have to much on the line to not do it.
I agree that splitting wood is completely variable. It's also no fun to be robotic. Sometimes you just wanna split something in half. It's rarely an emergency when splitting wood. Smart to take your time with an axe anyway.
Steven: I suspect that people that engage in splitting a lot of firewood over time develop their own system and once they are comfortable they stay with it. Certainly, that is my own situation. There is no one way of doing the job correctly, and experimenting with different methods and a different variety of tools makes the process much more interesting. Ten different people can have ten different ways of doing a job and they could all be right in their own way. You're making me, at least, rethink my own system. Big thumbs up again.
You're 100% right - in many cases. Considering that you can get two or three swings off by the time you bend over to set up a chunk, it's much more economical. I think you only discover that when you've split wood enough to be too tired to bend down anymore! The only time that I use a stump is splitting tough hardwoods that need more backing otherwise they just tend to bounce.
I started splitting like that in my teens, when I lived in NH and our family heated with wood. We had an inefficient stove and a drafty old farm house. We split many cords of wood. Had I split "the traditional way" I would have taken too long and would have never been able to complete my other chores. Once in a while I would break out a stump to split on when I had collected a legit pile of wood that was too knotty, punky, or tough. Efficency is key. Your already going to touch each piece three or four more times... why add to it?
Cool comment. I use the having to pick it up many times argument when trying to convince people to cut their branches flush with the trunk. It's a total newb move to leave stubs all over firewood, when you have to deal with them everytime you move and stack the wood after. Most typically, I'll split as I cut in the field, then drop it straight in place to season, which saves some moving. I got this wood from my neighbor, who had already cut it down and mostly into lengths. I had to cut all the stubs they left off though.
I've used this method of splitting in the pile for years....and I live in New York and split mostly hard woods...( The stuff most guys say....u can't split u can't split with an axe...or need a stump to split.....and it works with most woods I've split...bigger rnds just get saved for the end and get split on the ground no problems
My technique is very similar to yours. Rarely sharpen my maul, last week split wood on the side of our gravel road, hitting rocks don't hurt it. At times I will stand a dozen or so logs on end and I can blast through in a hurry.
Great to see you swinging again. I also use a dull axe/maul for splitting sometimes. One thing about a dull edge is if the axe isn't heavy enough, the timber can slip off the edge and send wood towards your legs/hands. Had this experience when being stupid with a short handle axe I hadn't put an apex on yet. So far, this hasn't really happened with a dull maul I've used. I at least think this is due to heavier weight.
@SkillCult definitely. I've hit my shins but this was different. Because of the 22 inch handle length my hand got hit. Didnt hurt at all especially compared to the shin hitters. Just disappointed because a well placed strike turned into an overstrike and I could have hurt myself. 3lb axe and a short handle. Not the best idea with a dull edge.
This type of splitting appeals to people like me who have minds that constantly see patterns, angles, vectors... (whether we want to or not lol). I get why you want to get back to it after a break. The grind on a maul is similar to the grind on a Japanese sword (think katana). It's ground to not get stuck, unlike most European swords which are often hollow-ground. The Japanese say the blade should be ground in the shape of the pointy end of an apple seed. Thanks for the video Steven.
I tend to favor the blunter mauls. I know they are not always the best, but then neither are thinner sharper ones. There is almost always going to be some compromise involved, unless maybe splitting the exact same uniform thing over and over. the german mauls seem to be along those lines. If you watch their competitions or videos of processing firewood in meter lengths, the maul tends to bounce out, but it works and no sticking. I'm pretty lazy about my maul. I just grab it and use it and if it's basically working, I don't try to fix it. I would probably do well to keep it slightly sharper, but I probably wont lol.
Stumpless splitting changed my life in a very real way and it's surprisingly easy to stay safe while doing it. I can't imagine doing the cordwood challenge on a stump...
I need to make one. I probably wouldn't use it that much, but for yarding wood and loading maybe. I use my axe that way quite a bit, but doesn't work with the maul.
I think the only reason why you seem to get people who say "this is the proper way" or "Always do it like this" is because there might be some confusion of the context of splitting wood. Are we splitting it for a fire, are we splitting it to build a charcoal mound? Is it for a large fire place or is it for a small wood stove? The would could be for carving purposes and the person who adds the 'always do this, because there's a sense of precision they feel to add to it. This method is the best option for splitting a mountain of wood to keep a home warm Also the First Person Perspective here is really rad, because you can see how you're working. Each swing is calculated and planned and I've seen where you've made the decision not to make the swing in a split second to change before making a mistake. I love this video
I'm just beginning this video, but years ago I watched another that you made. Up until that point I'd never thought about splitting without setting the log up vertically. After that, I tried what you were doing and now I hardly ever take the time to set them up. Buck with chainsaw and split where they lay when at all possible. Way more time efficient.
Stumpy Jumpy was displaced by a Maul. Stumpy Jumpy would inconveniently fall. All the Axe Heads and all the Axe Resources Couldn't justify Stumpy being upright again.
I split saw-cut wood the way you've shown. Only difference is that I use a large axe, and if the wood doesnt split the axe usually sticks and I can use the axe to lift the wood onto a conveniently placed chopping block. Best of both worlds IMO. Axe cut wood is all split on the ground though.
Very much horses for courses. As you said, the word "proper" and "always" get thrown around a lot. There are scenarios where stuff like this will work, there are scenarios where the quality and type of wood forces you into using a block. I live in Aus and a lot of firewood here is old ironbark fenceposts. They're hard as concrete, have a wavy, splintery grain that doesn't readily split and you can't really split it at all by walking into a pile of it and swinging so you need to set it up on a block, or at least upright on the ground. Or buy a log splitter haha.
It's the classic sony A3000 action cam. It was top of the pack for years even though it's old. Now there might be better options, but it's still a solid little camera and totally viable.
I had a short one for a while and didn't like it. I should try the longer one. I'm not into the non replaceable handle, so I have avoided them. I do hear a lot of good reports though.
I use the 36inch handle. I've gone through 4 in the last 7 years. I split everything on the ground, golf swing or over hand. I rarely overstriked but it happens and have never broken a handle. I get 25ish cords out of one and normally the bit is 2 inches shorter and a half pound lighter. I don't ever sharpen it's just a softer metal and wears poorly. When I switched from a maul it was a game changer I would happily send you my backup (last seasons) as I was gifted a new one from my daughter. Just let me know where to send it. I've learned and compared alot from your videos over the years and has been much appreciated. Thanks for the great content.
I saw you doing this several years ago in another video, and started doing it with my maple syrup boiling wood chores. Works great! I did modify a little in that I used my axe but wear my motocross boots. Might not stop a direct hit, but any ricochets I was able to control as I help with both hands and it is light enough to stop before it hit my boot. I like the idea of a 5 lb maul and straight fiberglass handle. I know you like those rigid natural overstrike protectors (not soft leather and cordage), what was it again, rawhide? I use leather wrapped tight with stainless wire, I pull it with pliers until it digs in and l I use gloves anyway so the cold doesn't bother me. Keep up the fine tutorials man, you are a beacon in these times...
I do like rawhide for guards, but I prefer no guard. The main thing is that I can handle the maul right below the eye fluidly with no interference. If I were using wooden handles on my splitting maul I"d have broken a dozen by now probably. But partly because I take almost no precautions to protect that fiberglass handle. I was able to locate a straight fiberglass handle for that 5 lb maul. Hopefully picking it up today. I think it is smooth, which is great. The one on that 6 lb maul is textures, which I don't like. It is also straight, with a slight curve at the handle, which I think is probably going to be much nices.
Great video! In the end there is no right or wrong. Get the job done do it without injury and enjoy. I like using different methods just to change things up. The bucking Billy Ray style, picking it up and putting it on the log or gathering the logs in a circle and using a bungee cord, ratchet strap or rope to keep them gathered in the circle and swing away! Your contact is always appreciated.
My ADHD loves this! I think its brilliant! The novelty and puzzle of every swing would help to maintain my attention! This would be a great short called How to split wood: ADHD friendly. How many teenage boys would say but dad I saw on UA-cam this way works! The ultimate guide to splitting wood if you have adhd and hate repetitive tasks! I really enjoyed this video, thank you for making it.
I am 63 years old and now retired. For the first time in my life I have time to actually learn new things and you have not only been informative but inspirational. Thank you so much and keep up the great work.
I split a lot of firewood. For my own personal use . And i used tosell split firewood. So far this winter ive burned 6 cord of wood that i split with my axes and a cord i split with my kinetic splitter. About 1/2 cord ive split axe cordwood challenge style. For that I use what I've termed the bucksplit method . I only chop from 1 direction as I chop splits loosen and pop off . I start at the butt once ive fell the tree and start splitting firewood off the tree. I generally complete essentially 1 round at a time from each side of the tree as it lays. Occasionally I will work up 3 (rounds) bucksplitting from 1 side . Then switch sides and bucksplit the halves off. In winter it's cold enough that the splits pop off well. I actually have to use thinish cheeked axes so i get big enough splits. Convex cheeked Tassie's prodice too much kindling size splits in the winters. But work well in the summer. It is much more efficent than chopping rounds off a tree with Vnotch bucks then chasing them around to split. Even if i have to buck part or all of a round with V notches due to a fork or knot/knots . i will put my split strikes in while the round is still attached to the tree. If/when splitting saw cut rounds i will usually stand up 20 or so with a pickaroon then split them all. And repeat. But I will split my way to the pile of rounds with whichever swings needed. I totally prefer a big convex Tassie for this . I even did a 3 x 15 round comparison this past fall with my 6 lb splitting maul and 2 different 4 1/2 lb tassies. The tassies easily out performed the maul. Really good video!! I enjoyed it ! I heat exclusively with wood and normally burn 9+ full cord per winter . Lattitude 64°N .
I've done what you call bucksplitting. Not much though. I've seen other cordwood challenge guys mention it as well though. I think if I designed a splitting axe it would probably be something between a maul and an axe. I"ve never been too motivated to refine though. I don't burn that much wood, maybe a cord to a cord and a half a year. thanks for the cool comment.
I quit watching Billy the day he talked about his finger going through toilet paper. He thought his comment was funny. I found it crude and disgusting.
Been thinking of selling firewood. Why do people cut the wood so short. I cut 16 inches. My old stove would take that wood without splitting. Do you have to split small and cut short for the new stoves? I know that a face cord is 4'x?×8', a legal cord is 4'x4'x8'. Thanks
I think 16" is pretty standard around here. I have a very small woodstove ina very small space. I also can cut almost as fast as I can measure, so unless I'm cutting large rounds, I just cut and make sure it's not too big for one of my stoves.
The wood I cut off my property is too hard to split for this to work. The wood you're cutting seems to be "breaking" far easier than what I'm dealing with. But for wood that's easier to split, I can see how this would be a lot less work than the traditional method. But then, if efficiency is your goal, why not just use a hydraulic wood splitter? The point about using a dull maul makes a lot of sense though. Its safer and you don't need to worry about damaging it.
I wouldn't be too sure unless you try it and get pretty good at it,. but maybe you have. I use it on every species here, just not every piece. Only one conifer, the rest are oaks madrone, and bay laurel. I don't like the work of hydraulic splitters, plus noisy, expensive, break down, have to either move them to the wood or the wood to them...
For splitting, sharp bladed axes don't matter. I like an ax with a slightly convex blade profile. It won't get stuck in the wood very often and tends to pop the log apart much better than an ax with a straight or concave profile.
Some really skilled and smart people I know say otherwise, but I'm more inclined to agree with you for the most part about actual edge sharpness. In some cases, thin axes seem to just slip through wood really well, so I'm not ready to make any blanket statements about geometry. It may depend on the wood and its condition. So much context to consider. In general, I'm not that picky about what axe I'm splitting with, but it definitely can make a difference.
By the way your breathing I’d say you are expending far to much energy for the work being done .You are on boys wood so chances are your using the wrong tool or poor technique..This is coming from a 60 yr old smoker who would do that stack with a single handed axe .That said my preferred method is to let the kids do it !
A lot of that is because I'm talking. But, I get short of breath a lot. I have never figured out what it is, it comes and goes. sometimes just standing up or walking a little. I think it has to do with cellular respiration. I don't know, my body is messed up.
I've done this by natural progression to save energy as you say. I just thought I was lazy. It isnt a technique for beginners, even with a dull instrument. The odd angles, swing paths, uneven terrain, chaotic environment, require a lot of experience and create room for mistakes. Spend time perfecting a controlled technique before you try something advanced like this.
The logs you have cut i would burn without splitting my stove is big enough and i let the logs dry for 3 years and allways have 3 year supply in my wood sheds. Firewood wood is better than keeping your money in the bank in my country
Around here I can get away with cutting the same year and seasoning in the sun. We have a fairly reliable hot dry period. Maybe at my next place I'll have the infrastructure so store more wood. Right now, it's pretty much just enough room for one year at a time. I heat small spaces, and I'm not heating 24/7 . Having quite a bit of smaller split wood tends to work in my favor, otherwise I'd split less of it up.
I personally wouldn't hone the edge down fine. but bringing it all the way to an edge I'll do on a splitting maul. It is the geometrey of a more obtuse angle that really protects the edge from damage, not so much it's being dull. You can sharpen a cold chisel down to a full edge and use it to cut metal. it is not going to stay that way long, and it isn't worth honing down and refining, but the geometry is what keeps it from runing the tool.
I do shift hands. I think it's worth learning. It is super awkward at first, but it almost feels natural now, even though I'm not as accurate. It is more important in general axe work with a sharp axe, but it comes in handy splitting too. Splitting on a stump it isn't useful, but freehand it is.
Not to me, but I have almost hit my head with a maul rebounding out of a springy round on a stump. I could see smaller shrapnel doing that, but big pieces, I don't really see that being likely.
I had an idea today. In my head I thought about a short axe with a heavier head and lead weights added to bottom of axe in the palm swell to make it a bit more balanced. Does this make any sense to anyone?
One of the reason an axe works is that the weight is predominantly imbalanced. Use the law of extremes to think about how that works. Imagine the weight all int he handle and how effective the axe would be, then imagine it completely distributed, then all at the head. There is a cost to lifting the weight of the axe over and over and swinging it, so we want that weight where it will do the most work.
I go through 8-12 cords a winter. About 50% of it I split this way. The other half is bigger rounds and those I will stand up and work my way around them, flipping off little pieces.
Wow, I'm glad I don't burn that much wood lol. That is pretty much my approach too. If I have big stuff, I start by slabbing what I can round the edge. It gives a nice solid core to work off of and I can make a piece of firewood for almost every blow until it gets so small that it is going to start falling over. Do you use a maul or an axe?
I was watching your video from 7 years ago on splitting billets from logs. You said you used black locust for handles, what kind of handles have you used black locust for?
It actually says SLATER. The pentagram is made of slate hammers and the ring is slate. My ex girlfriend put that together when we were building a slate roof. I need to finish it and print some more. That was a test run. but yeah, big Slayer fan :)
What is the brand of that maul again, I think you posted that on a previous video but I forget. Glass handles don't bother me, as this task would go only 1-2 hours tops. I'm sure you'd get more Algo- raves if you could expertly golf swing all the pieces right back into the truck bed, without breaking the rear view window, or the tail light, of course. (cue the slow motion Whoah!) I also go for "side splits", if you have a halved piece lying flat. Doing a vertical chop breaks up the repetive strain of my neck and shoulder for a few seconds. And just use the weight of the head ... I get paranoid when people are standing around gawking, so I tell them to please fuck off. Goddam it, go inside and get the chili pot started. Too distracting. Dogs and cats are another distraction- annoyance . Dog steals the flying kindling piece, then runs back to you to play fetch, Cat is lurking, circling, waiting to see if you flush any mice...
That is just some maul head I grabbed out of the scrap pile. I have 6 or 7 oft them. Pretty standard. What if you had someone setting up wood for you at the tailgate, and just keep teeing off right into the truck lol. that would be awesome.
@@SkillCult I'm sure some redneck somewhere figured that out already. Add rubber pads everywhere. You could also use a Skeet launcher and do air chops...
Doing this, use shin guards. One good miss, and you have a axe shaped hole through your shin. I chop wood as I cut it into sections, don't use stumps, just leave it where it is, and cut up some, then chop it, it works great. Just be careful, as the stump, protects you, its not about efficiency, its about safety, when you chop with a stump, you are following through into a safe spot that isn't your shin. If you aren't going to stay aware while cutting the wood, zoning out, etc... use a stump or log to cut your wood, otherwise, use this method but have shin guards on.
Man, I wish the evergreens in my forest would split like that! I've tried ground splitting and between the density of the wood and the wetness of my ground I get nowhere. I like your idea of mixing it up though. Always good to experiment.
Unless you split wood as a job or you're splitting a metric ton of it, and there I imagine you'd have a machine or a couple extra friends, you can choose a more satisfying way to split it. The cleanup will probably being annoying more than it ought to be, since you're burying intact logs behind the firewood you make and overall it's kind of all over the place, but that definitely looks like fun.
Thank you for this video. Your method looks like a very good way to split. Certainly, I can see how it could be very energy-efficient, especially in light of the fact that bending over and picking up pieces would be almost completely eliminated. I will have to try this the next time I hit the woodpile.
Every end is a target and every target has a proper way to engage it... plus it's a great way to release a little frustration instead of getting frustrated because you are handling every piece 6 times lol
I occasionally do the golf swing style of splitting, but the tire wood holder seems more efficient even with smaller rounds. I even came up with a splitting "block" for a special situation.
@SkillCult The major problem most have with the tire holding the rounds is that they split the wood into smaller pieces than they normally do! Blows are also delivered harder for most. Newer small sidewall, wide tread tires are simply better than those in most videos.
I do tend to favor hitting stuff that is resting against another piece and you'll see me manueuvering stuff around to give it some backing. A lot of times the inertia of the round is enough though. Remarkably even on small stuff.
@SkillCult I noticed that. Sometimes, a I like to use my axe for picking up and moving pieces too. Buckin Billy Ray does this in his videos occasionally.
@@shauncatlett6066 I do that as well, use it like a pickaroon. If you get it right, you can even throw it sometimes. Not gonna fly with a dull splitting maul though.
You raise some VERY good points in this one and have some great advice that I concur with. I also rarely use a block. One block I DO use is a low cut stump when I'm splitting where I fell it. Bonus points if it has a little slope to it for the reasons you mentiomed. Like you alluded to, there is a time and place for every technique. I'm in east coast woodlands and cut a large variety of species. Poplar, oak, and straight grain maple I treat almost exactly as you do in this video. Tougher stuff i'll cut a low stump for. Hickory, elm, sycamore, etc I value my time and just use the hydraulic. Moving things, propping things up, turning things, etc. are time sucks. Do it when necessary but you'll save time minimizing it. A pickaroon will cut down a lot of it. Gives you the magic gorilla-length arm. I love my old axes. For "work" splitting however I bought a fiskars. I dont care if it hits a rock, I've nicked it with a chainsaw. It's the most durable "disposable" tool. Great video man.
There's been many times I use the word leisurely when talking about some splitting im doing. When not swinging like a wild man, being efficient, it can really be a pleasure.
Bluegrass Outdoors has a channel on here and can really pump out firewood fast. He stands his rounds up in his videos. His pace would be way beyond leisurely for me. It's very impressive. Him and Mo are the best splitters I've seen on UA-cam.
It makes sense that you are doing different movements, and therefore use different muscle groups. So, you don't over fatigue a small set of muscles, but instead, spread it out over your whole body. I totally agree with you. I'd also suggest switching hands once in a while. Also, one handed. I often act like I am fighting.
Love this- almost like solving a puzzle
POV splitting is cool, especially for us stuck in the city, gripped my attention for the whole 29 minutes
Awesome to see a new axe video from the axe man himself! I love that way of splitting but I use an axe instead. Some axe heads is way harder to get out of the wood then others. I found out that the cross section of the axe head behind the edge should be slighty elipse in shape not square. The head with the elipse cross section is way easier to get out of the wood! If I was good at making videos I would make a video about it lol
I split a lot of wood 4 or 5 cords a year for me. I have tried this style, I like it. I felt like my chances to hit myself were increased, more variables. I do use this style when I am fresh!
With a sharp or thin axe, you really have to be on your toes. I feel much, much safer using an obtuse maul. But there are other things you can do, like keeping a longer distance. like anything, it takes time to have confidence in the swing and accumulate enough background to understand what can happen and how to avoid it.
My man used the word “recalcitrant” properly in a sentence. This is why I’m subscribed to your channel brother. Keep up the good work
I don't have that much wood to split but looks fun. I don't use a stump but a 2 x 10 or I pound a hole in the ground with our soft soil. I think I have the same maul and standing them up gives the kids something to do.
For me splitting is about producing firewood, so Ive learned to conserve energy yet with decent technique dish out enough of a blow to get her done. Sometimes u need more sometimes less but learning to 'read' a round will help u put the ax where it needs to be to efficiently dissect a round. Good to see an ax vid from the skilman himself. I like apples an all but u take it too far lol but its good with the ax'e, I like them vids more. I use edible flaxseed oil I source from my chemist on all muh handles these days. Its darn good stuff. Thanks skilman.
I find that if I spend too much time second guessing how hard I need to hit stuff, I tend to under swing and have to hit it again.
epic t-shirt.
Here is a rule a thumb for me. If its nice strait grain wood that splits well, I use my axe. Everything else gets thrown on the super split 😂
Nice. I hate having to pick up and pick up again wood to split, really wears my lower back out, but with our Australian hardwood I cut and burn (mostly red box, yellow box and stringybark) I usually really need a big block and a full strength swing with a sharp splitter/maul. Also with big rounds, hitting it in the middle is often useless, it will just bounce or stick, you need to split the outer ring of wood all off the round before the centre will split easily. I do like it when I can just smash them on the ground freestyle like you are doing, but it’s not often I can do it with my wood.
I hear that stuff a lot from aussies. I have mostly hardwoods, but most are not too hard to split. I'm a big fan of the slabbing stuff off of big rounds too. I can usually make almost one piece of firewood per blow, while someone else is trying to split a big block in half for some unknown reason lol. thanks for commenting.
@@SkillCult thanks, yeah, some of our hardwood splits pretty easy, but a lot has some pretty twisty sticky grain where you have to get a lot of kinetic energy in your axe head to pop it-which on the flip side often sends it flying off a long way! I’m tempted to try the splitting in the car tyre thing for that stuff.
And yeah, the slabbing off off big rounds with a firewood piece per blow can be done really well with my wood. Other times I can go round with a few blows and seperate half or more of the outer ring/donut from the centre, and leave it just attached and holding with some fibres, and then split off individual pieces from the ring while it is just still being held. Saves a lot of bending and picking up.
I quite enjoy splitting wood. Need to make myself a chainsaw horse though, for stacks of smaller logs.
@@ontic2354 That stupid saw horse is probably 18 to 19 years old, sitting outside the whole time, barely holding together. I've patched it so many times and it still works lol. I almost made a new one this year and I was like screw it, slap on some plywood and go.
@@SkillCult lol. It does look a bit like my old one I made out of recycled cypress fencing posts. It worked OK, but was too heavy to move easily and was always threatening to fall apart.
I’m thinking of welding up a simple metal one, with one strip of sacrificial timber in case the saw dips too low.
here's some really unusual splitting advice: just stop wasting your time splitting all your damn wood. if you have the space you can just get it a couple years sooner allowing enough time for it to dry out unsplit. and then when you're starting a fire, load your stove primarily with unsplit wood but with a little split wood to use as kindling to get the fire big enough to get the unsplit stuff going. there i just saved you years of your life.
I don't have the space and I need more control over burn time and wood size. I split my wood to the sizes that work for me. You shouldn't need the hyperbole to make a good point.
Love it. No fuss no muss, but requires the ability to learn and progress with technique. An open mind is a good mind 👍🪓♥️
Wish the wood on my property split that easily.
I wish we were neighbors. I think we'd dislike each other's politics, but we would absolutely team up on everything else. Also nice truck, gets the job done 👍🏻 is that a Makita saw?
yeah, it's a Makita, but it's really a Dolmar. Makita bought Dolmar is I think the story. It has a big bore mod so it's something like 82 or 84 cc I don't remember. Its pretty bad ass and starts consistently. You can get them for cheap from home depot. They rent them out so many times and then sell them. I think the saw was about 225.00 and the big bore kit was around 125.00 Without the mod, it's kind of a heavy saw, but with the mod, it's very powerful for it's weight. Most people are in a camp, which means they are sheep, which means the only conversation worth having is how not to be such a sheep, which is usually futile. Actual discourse is almost dead. People just sling the propaganda they consume. Anyone that identifies heavily with a political ideaology or group is usually not worth the attempt at a discussion. That is where the thinking ends and the bleating begins. Until that changes, the outlook will always be unfavorable.
Wranglerstar uses Proper way to much and often in the worst example.
There's a video on how to choose a proper hatchet, where he plagerizes Horace Kephart because he doesn't have his own opinions apparently, then demonstrates cutting down a tree like he's never done it before, and leaves stubs all over the wood. total newb.
@@SkillCult LOL
I'm 5'2" and 66 years old. The piece of equipment I need is the man part. Just not as strong anymore. I'm getting kind of sad about it this year because I can't afford a log splitter and can't stand the thought of when the time comes that I won't be able to heat with wood anymore. Thank you for the tips.
I rent a wood splitter once a year. Costs around $130 for a day. The wood I have is spongy cottonwood, and it just absorbs maul blows as hard as I can swing it.
@@mattv5281 Thank you. A great suggestion but I don't drive and have no one to help me. I asked a little church a couple years ago that's a half a block away if there were some men who would help me with getting a log splitter rental here and they completely ignored my email. 🤷♀️
@@lesliekendall5668do they go to your church?
Most the time, we have to ask for help in person, with unwavering eye contact and conviction. This can be uncomfortable, but you have to much on the line to not do it.
@@sawdustadikt979 Thank you. I'll think about it. At least you've given me an option.
I agree that splitting wood is completely variable. It's also no fun to be robotic. Sometimes you just wanna split something in half. It's rarely an emergency when splitting wood. Smart to take your time with an axe anyway.
Steven: I suspect that people that engage in splitting a lot of firewood over time develop their own system and once they are comfortable they stay with it. Certainly, that is my own situation. There is no one way of doing the job correctly, and experimenting with different methods and a different variety of tools makes the process much more interesting. Ten different people can have ten different ways of doing a job and they could all be right in their own way. You're making me, at least, rethink my own system. Big thumbs up again.
You're 100% right - in many cases. Considering that you can get two or three swings off by the time you bend over to set up a chunk, it's much more economical. I think you only discover that when you've split wood enough to be too tired to bend down anymore! The only time that I use a stump is splitting tough hardwoods that need more backing otherwise they just tend to bounce.
downed enemies on the battlefield trainin', LOL
I started splitting like that in my teens, when I lived in NH and our family heated with wood. We had an inefficient stove and a drafty old farm house.
We split many cords of wood. Had I split "the traditional way" I would have taken too long and would have never been able to complete my other chores.
Once in a while I would break out a stump to split on when I had collected a legit pile of wood that was too knotty, punky, or tough.
Efficency is key. Your already going to touch each piece three or four more times... why add to it?
Cool comment. I use the having to pick it up many times argument when trying to convince people to cut their branches flush with the trunk. It's a total newb move to leave stubs all over firewood, when you have to deal with them everytime you move and stack the wood after. Most typically, I'll split as I cut in the field, then drop it straight in place to season, which saves some moving. I got this wood from my neighbor, who had already cut it down and mostly into lengths. I had to cut all the stubs they left off though.
Freestyle, nice
I've used this method of splitting in the pile for years....and I live in New York and split mostly hard woods...( The stuff most guys say....u can't split u can't split with an axe...or need a stump to split.....and it works with most woods I've split...bigger rnds just get saved for the end and get split on the ground no problems
My technique is very similar to yours. Rarely sharpen my maul, last week split wood on the side of our gravel road, hitting rocks don't hurt it. At times I will stand a dozen or so logs on end and I can blast through in a hurry.
Basically boils down to what you are splitting. Clean straight grain will split any way you like . Something like elm needs to be on a block.
A new skillcult axe video in the morning is always a good day! Thank you and have a nice day!
I’m 73 and cut and split 5 cords a year, much larger wood. I have learned not to share my advice, just shake my head when I see people struggling.
Great to see you swinging again. I also use a dull axe/maul for splitting sometimes. One thing about a dull edge is if the axe isn't heavy enough, the timber can slip off the edge and send wood towards your legs/hands. Had this experience when being stupid with a short handle axe I hadn't put an apex on yet. So far, this hasn't really happened with a dull maul I've used. I at least think this is due to heavier weight.
I've banged my leg a couple times with flying firewood. Pretty hard to avoid that as a possibility.
@SkillCult definitely. I've hit my shins but this was different. Because of the 22 inch handle length my hand got hit. Didnt hurt at all especially compared to the shin hitters. Just disappointed because a well placed strike turned into an overstrike and I could have hurt myself. 3lb axe and a short handle. Not the best idea with a dull edge.
This type of splitting appeals to people like me who have minds that constantly see patterns, angles, vectors... (whether we want to or not lol). I get why you want to get back to it after a break.
The grind on a maul is similar to the grind on a Japanese sword (think katana). It's ground to not get stuck, unlike most European swords which are often hollow-ground. The Japanese say the blade should be ground in the shape of the pointy end of an apple seed.
Thanks for the video Steven.
I tend to favor the blunter mauls. I know they are not always the best, but then neither are thinner sharper ones. There is almost always going to be some compromise involved, unless maybe splitting the exact same uniform thing over and over. the german mauls seem to be along those lines. If you watch their competitions or videos of processing firewood in meter lengths, the maul tends to bounce out, but it works and no sticking. I'm pretty lazy about my maul. I just grab it and use it and if it's basically working, I don't try to fix it. I would probably do well to keep it slightly sharper, but I probably wont lol.
Stumpless splitting changed my life in a very real way and it's surprisingly easy to stay safe while doing it. I can't imagine doing the cordwood challenge on a stump...
there's the whole no flat ends issue too. I will often lay a piece of firewood against a log and hit it, but as with stumps, mostly not.
Pickaroons are good for that...less bending over and you can load your truck faster unless you have a teenager
I need to make one. I probably wouldn't use it that much, but for yarding wood and loading maybe. I use my axe that way quite a bit, but doesn't work with the maul.
Love your videos brother.
Skeptic first with an open mind
Live by experimentation.
I think the only reason why you seem to get people who say "this is the proper way" or "Always do it like this" is because there might be some confusion of the context of splitting wood. Are we splitting it for a fire, are we splitting it to build a charcoal mound? Is it for a large fire place or is it for a small wood stove? The would could be for carving purposes and the person who adds the 'always do this, because there's a sense of precision they feel to add to it.
This method is the best option for splitting a mountain of wood to keep a home warm
Also the First Person Perspective here is really rad, because you can see how you're working. Each swing is calculated and planned and I've seen where you've made the decision not to make the swing in a split second to change before making a mistake. I love this video
The real problem with dummy rules in general is that they don't account for context and context is king.
@@SkillCult That is very true.
I'm just beginning this video, but years ago I watched another that you made. Up until that point I'd never thought about splitting without setting the log up vertically. After that, I tried what you were doing and now I hardly ever take the time to set them up. Buck with chainsaw and split where they lay when at all possible. Way more time efficient.
Stumpy Jumpy was displaced by a Maul.
Stumpy Jumpy would inconveniently fall.
All the Axe Heads and all the Axe Resources
Couldn't justify Stumpy being upright again.
I split saw-cut wood the way you've shown. Only difference is that I use a large axe, and if the wood doesnt split the axe usually sticks and I can use the axe to lift the wood onto a conveniently placed chopping block. Best of both worlds IMO. Axe cut wood is all split on the ground though.
Very much horses for courses. As you said, the word "proper" and "always" get thrown around a lot. There are scenarios where stuff like this will work, there are scenarios where the quality and type of wood forces you into using a block. I live in Aus and a lot of firewood here is old ironbark fenceposts. They're hard as concrete, have a wavy, splintery grain that doesn't readily split and you can't really split it at all by walking into a pile of it and swinging so you need to set it up on a block, or at least upright on the ground. Or buy a log splitter haha.
Excellent...your Skill is good.
What camera are you using to record this ?
It's the classic sony A3000 action cam. It was top of the pack for years even though it's old. Now there might be better options, but it's still a solid little camera and totally viable.
Great video try a fiskars splitting axe. about 6lbs and works great for that style.
I have a 6lb fiskars maul. My fav axe. The fiskars x27 is really good too
I had a short one for a while and didn't like it. I should try the longer one. I'm not into the non replaceable handle, so I have avoided them. I do hear a lot of good reports though.
I use the 36inch handle. I've gone through 4 in the last 7 years. I split everything on the ground, golf swing or over hand. I rarely overstriked but it happens and have never broken a handle. I get 25ish cords out of one and normally the bit is 2 inches shorter and a half pound lighter. I don't ever sharpen it's just a softer metal and wears poorly. When I switched from a maul it was a game changer I would happily send you my backup (last seasons) as I was gifted a new one from my daughter. Just let me know where to send it. I've learned and compared alot from your videos over the years and has been much appreciated. Thanks for the great content.
I saw you doing this several years ago in another video, and started doing it with my maple syrup boiling wood chores. Works great! I did modify a little in that I used my axe but wear my motocross boots. Might not stop a direct hit, but any ricochets I was able to control as I help with both hands and it is light enough to stop before it hit my boot. I like the idea of a 5 lb maul and straight fiberglass handle. I know you like those rigid natural overstrike protectors (not soft leather and cordage), what was it again, rawhide? I use leather wrapped tight with stainless wire, I pull it with pliers until it digs in and l I use gloves anyway so the cold doesn't bother me. Keep up the fine tutorials man, you are a beacon in these times...
I do like rawhide for guards, but I prefer no guard. The main thing is that I can handle the maul right below the eye fluidly with no interference. If I were using wooden handles on my splitting maul I"d have broken a dozen by now probably. But partly because I take almost no precautions to protect that fiberglass handle. I was able to locate a straight fiberglass handle for that 5 lb maul. Hopefully picking it up today. I think it is smooth, which is great. The one on that 6 lb maul is textures, which I don't like. It is also straight, with a slight curve at the handle, which I think is probably going to be much nices.
Great video! In the end there is no right or wrong. Get the job done do it without injury and enjoy. I like using different methods just to change things up. The bucking Billy Ray style, picking it up and putting it on the log or gathering the logs in a circle and using a bungee cord, ratchet strap or rope to keep them gathered in the circle and swing away! Your contact is always appreciated.
the reason I never did this was that I never had the space for it. Always just a small area and bunch of fragile stuff around
The biggest energy waste is bending over to pick something up off the ground.
My ADHD loves this! I think its brilliant! The novelty and puzzle of every swing would help to maintain my attention! This would be a great short called How to split wood: ADHD friendly. How many teenage boys would say but dad I saw on UA-cam this way works! The ultimate guide to splitting wood if you have adhd and hate repetitive tasks! I really enjoyed this video, thank you for making it.
ha ha, yeah, I'm rigjht there with you lol.
Can confirm. No one way is right. Use them all when applicable, but in general just go wack wood.
ua-cam.com/video/qwqS4ywci78/v-deo.html
This is my take on it
I am 63 years old and now retired. For the first time in my life I have time to actually learn new things and you have not only been informative but inspirational. Thank you so much and keep up the great work.
thanks mate!
That’s how Buckin’ Billy Ray Smith does it.
I split a lot of firewood. For my own personal use . And i used tosell split firewood. So far this winter ive burned 6 cord of wood that i split with my axes and a cord i split with my kinetic splitter. About 1/2 cord ive split axe cordwood challenge style. For that I use what I've termed the bucksplit method . I only chop from 1 direction as I chop splits loosen and pop off . I start at the butt once ive fell the tree and start splitting firewood off the tree. I generally complete essentially 1 round at a time from each side of the tree as it lays. Occasionally I will work up 3 (rounds) bucksplitting from 1 side . Then switch sides and bucksplit the halves off. In winter it's cold enough that the splits pop off well. I actually have to use thinish cheeked axes so i get big enough splits. Convex cheeked Tassie's prodice too much kindling size splits in the winters. But work well in the summer. It is much more efficent than chopping rounds off a tree with Vnotch bucks then chasing them around to split. Even if i have to buck part or all of a round with V notches due to a fork or knot/knots . i will put my split strikes in while the round is still attached to the tree.
If/when splitting saw cut rounds i will usually stand up 20 or so with a pickaroon then split them all. And repeat. But I will split my way to the pile of rounds with whichever swings needed. I totally prefer a big convex Tassie for this . I even did a 3 x 15 round comparison this past fall with my 6 lb splitting maul and 2 different 4 1/2 lb tassies. The tassies easily out performed the maul.
Really good video!! I enjoyed it !
I heat exclusively with wood and normally burn 9+ full cord per winter . Lattitude 64°N .
I've done what you call bucksplitting. Not much though. I've seen other cordwood challenge guys mention it as well though. I think if I designed a splitting axe it would probably be something between a maul and an axe. I"ve never been too motivated to refine though. I don't burn that much wood, maybe a cord to a cord and a half a year. thanks for the cool comment.
Was just going to mention Buckin Billy. This reminded me so much of how he approaches it.
Buckin's the man.
I quit watching Billy the day he talked about his finger going through toilet paper. He thought his comment was funny. I found it crude and disgusting.
All good points. I have made all of the mistakes you mention.
Been thinking of selling firewood. Why do people cut the wood so short. I cut 16 inches. My old stove would take that wood without splitting. Do you have to split small and cut short for the new stoves? I know that a face cord is 4'x?×8', a legal cord is 4'x4'x8'. Thanks
I think 16" is pretty standard around here. I have a very small woodstove ina very small space. I also can cut almost as fast as I can measure, so unless I'm cutting large rounds, I just cut and make sure it's not too big for one of my stoves.
The wood I cut off my property is too hard to split for this to work. The wood you're cutting seems to be "breaking" far easier than what I'm dealing with.
But for wood that's easier to split, I can see how this would be a lot less work than the traditional method.
But then, if efficiency is your goal, why not just use a hydraulic wood splitter?
The point about using a dull maul makes a lot of sense though. Its safer and you don't need to worry about damaging it.
I wouldn't be too sure unless you try it and get pretty good at it,. but maybe you have. I use it on every species here, just not every piece. Only one conifer, the rest are oaks madrone, and bay laurel. I don't like the work of hydraulic splitters, plus noisy, expensive, break down, have to either move them to the wood or the wood to them...
Eucalyptus hardwood timber would never be able to be split like this. It’s stringy, knotted and dense. Great to burn but difficult to split.
Like I said, if it's doesn't work, don't do it. there are lots of woods that won't split well without support, but a lot that will.
For splitting, sharp bladed axes don't matter. I like an ax with a slightly convex blade profile. It won't get stuck in the wood very often and tends to pop the log apart much better than an ax with a straight or concave profile.
Some really skilled and smart people I know say otherwise, but I'm more inclined to agree with you for the most part about actual edge sharpness. In some cases, thin axes seem to just slip through wood really well, so I'm not ready to make any blanket statements about geometry. It may depend on the wood and its condition. So much context to consider. In general, I'm not that picky about what axe I'm splitting with, but it definitely can make a difference.
By the way your breathing I’d say you are expending far to much energy for the work being done .You are on boys wood so chances are your using the wrong tool or poor technique..This is coming from a 60 yr old smoker who would do that stack with a single handed axe .That said my preferred method is to let the kids do it !
A lot of that is because I'm talking. But, I get short of breath a lot. I have never figured out what it is, it comes and goes. sometimes just standing up or walking a little. I think it has to do with cellular respiration. I don't know, my body is messed up.
I've done this by natural progression to save energy as you say. I just thought I was lazy.
It isnt a technique for beginners, even with a dull instrument. The odd angles, swing paths, uneven terrain, chaotic environment, require a lot of experience and create room for mistakes. Spend time perfecting a controlled technique before you try something advanced like this.
good advice
The logs you have cut i would burn without splitting my stove is big enough and i let the logs dry for 3 years and allways have 3 year supply in my wood sheds. Firewood wood is better than keeping your money in the bank in my country
Around here I can get away with cutting the same year and seasoning in the sun. We have a fairly reliable hot dry period. Maybe at my next place I'll have the infrastructure so store more wood. Right now, it's pretty much just enough room for one year at a time. I heat small spaces, and I'm not heating 24/7 . Having quite a bit of smaller split wood tends to work in my favor, otherwise I'd split less of it up.
was debating whether to completely sharpen the Dasco 6# splitter I just hung.
I personally wouldn't hone the edge down fine. but bringing it all the way to an edge I'll do on a splitting maul. It is the geometrey of a more obtuse angle that really protects the edge from damage, not so much it's being dull. You can sharpen a cold chisel down to a full edge and use it to cut metal. it is not going to stay that way long, and it isn't worth honing down and refining, but the geometry is what keeps it from runing the tool.
The toes of my boots take a beating from all the moving chunks around; shoe goo is your friend to keep the toes from wearing through!
Kind of like rhino liner for your boots? I move stuff with my feet all the time. Good tools.
Sure does look a lot more fun than using a stump.
Your left hand swing seems more like a back hand; left hand would mean shifting hands on the haft😁
I do shift hands. I think it's worth learning. It is super awkward at first, but it almost feels natural now, even though I'm not as accurate. It is more important in general axe work with a sharp axe, but it comes in handy splitting too. Splitting on a stump it isn't useful, but freehand it is.
I split this way. If I swing the same way for days at a time I get weird back pain so the random swings prevent back pain
And so much less lifting. Most of us in the west have crap posture, so lifting a lot can add up.
I'd worry about catapulting a log towards my head. Ever happen?
Not to me, but I have almost hit my head with a maul rebounding out of a springy round on a stump. I could see smaller shrapnel doing that, but big pieces, I don't really see that being likely.
Using your foot to hold the piece of wood youre chopping is savage. Youre a wild man.
I wouldnt' do that with a sharp axe, I'd only bruise myself up with that thing. I might push it with a dull axe tho, maybe...
I had an idea today. In my head I thought about a short axe with a heavier head and lead weights added to bottom of axe in the palm swell to make it a bit more balanced. Does this make any sense to anyone?
One of the reason an axe works is that the weight is predominantly imbalanced. Use the law of extremes to think about how that works. Imagine the weight all int he handle and how effective the axe would be, then imagine it completely distributed, then all at the head. There is a cost to lifting the weight of the axe over and over and swinging it, so we want that weight where it will do the most work.
This should be part of those rage rooms.
I do the same!
But whit a 5 pound tassie axe
I question you telling me to “always question everything that says always”
good
I go through 8-12 cords a winter. About 50% of it I split this way. The other half is bigger rounds and those I will stand up and work my way around them, flipping off little pieces.
Wow, I'm glad I don't burn that much wood lol. That is pretty much my approach too. If I have big stuff, I start by slabbing what I can round the edge. It gives a nice solid core to work off of and I can make a piece of firewood for almost every blow until it gets so small that it is going to start falling over. Do you use a maul or an axe?
@@SkillCult almost exclusively a maul.
Recalcitrant...tru dat. Some just are...Glad to see you back on some axe stuff! Sometimes ya just gotta be a meathead though!
I was watching your video from 7 years ago on splitting billets from logs. You said you used black locust for handles, what kind of handles have you used black locust for?
Mostly hatchet and hammer handles, but it makes a good axe handle.
@@SkillCult Good to know, thank you. I have a lot where I live and I wouldn't expect it to be good for axe handles.
Slayer T shirt..I already subbed a long time ago...badass
It actually says SLATER. The pentagram is made of slate hammers and the ring is slate. My ex girlfriend put that together when we were building a slate roof. I need to finish it and print some more. That was a test run. but yeah, big Slayer fan :)
What is the brand of that maul again, I think you posted that on a previous video but I forget. Glass handles don't bother me, as this task would go only 1-2 hours tops. I'm sure you'd get more Algo- raves if you could expertly golf swing all the pieces right back into the truck bed, without breaking the rear view window, or the tail light, of course. (cue the slow motion Whoah!) I also go for "side splits", if you have a halved piece lying flat. Doing a vertical chop breaks up the repetive strain of my neck and shoulder for a few seconds. And just use the weight of the head ... I get paranoid when people are standing around gawking, so I tell them to please fuck off. Goddam it, go inside and get the chili pot started. Too distracting. Dogs and cats are another distraction- annoyance . Dog steals the flying kindling piece, then runs back to you to play fetch, Cat is lurking, circling, waiting to see if you flush any mice...
(I got a nicey-nice FB warning for my F-off sentence)
That is just some maul head I grabbed out of the scrap pile. I have 6 or 7 oft them. Pretty standard. What if you had someone setting up wood for you at the tailgate, and just keep teeing off right into the truck lol. that would be awesome.
@@SkillCult I'm sure some redneck somewhere figured that out already. Add rubber pads everywhere. You could also use a Skeet launcher and do air chops...
Doing this, use shin guards.
One good miss, and you have a axe shaped hole through your shin.
I chop wood as I cut it into sections, don't use stumps, just leave it where it is, and cut up some, then chop it, it works great.
Just be careful, as the stump, protects you, its not about efficiency, its about safety, when you chop with a stump, you are following through into a safe spot that isn't your shin.
If you aren't going to stay aware while cutting the wood, zoning out, etc... use a stump or log to cut your wood, otherwise, use this method but have shin guards on.
Man, I wish the evergreens in my forest would split like that! I've tried ground splitting and between the density of the wood and the wetness of my ground I get nowhere. I like your idea of mixing it up though. Always good to experiment.
Unless you split wood as a job or you're splitting a metric ton of it, and there I imagine you'd have a machine or a couple extra friends, you can choose a more satisfying way to split it.
The cleanup will probably being annoying more than it ought to be, since you're burying intact logs behind the firewood you make and overall it's kind of all over the place, but that definitely looks like fun.
Beaver tooth handle co. has axe eye straight handles.
thanks. I found a straight fiberglass axe eye handle that is great.
He hates the wood!!!
Thank you for this video. Your method looks like a very good way to split. Certainly, I can see how it could be very energy-efficient, especially in light of the fact that bending over and picking up pieces would be almost completely eliminated. I will have to try this the next time I hit the woodpile.
I agree with you! There are many variables, but the important thing is not to get hurt! Great video!
WOW! i love it..
Every end is a target and every target has a proper way to engage it... plus it's a great way to release a little frustration instead of getting frustrated because you are handling every piece 6 times lol
Nice, first person splitting! Would be cool to see you do the same for bucking.
I started splitting this way after watching one of your previous videos. It really is a lot faster.
What’s up with the almost Slayer shirt?
It says slater, from my slate roofing project :) SLATER!
@@SkillCult Ha ha, I've seen a boat called SAYLER. Dad jokes at metal's expense.
Interesting technique(s).
Good stuff thanks for the video!
I occasionally do the golf swing style of splitting, but the tire wood holder seems more efficient even with smaller rounds. I even came up with a splitting "block" for a special situation.
I haven't really used the tire method yet. I'll have to try it someday. Seems like a lot of fuss.
@SkillCult
The major problem most have with the tire holding the rounds is that they split the wood into smaller pieces than they normally do! Blows are also delivered harder for most. Newer small sidewall, wide tread tires are simply better than those in most videos.
Always watch Skillcult videos !
Never always don't watch skillcult videos.
Great video and good tips. Watching this is like playing a «first person splitter» game, if there was such a thing :-)
Iv'e had people joke about building a first person homesteading video game.
@@SkillCultAh, chopping, splitting, pruning, composting, clearing shrubbery! What an adventurous game it will be. Sign me up :-D
You can also use the pile as a stump too. Works great for curved and sloped rounds. I've done this ysing a 6 lb splitting axe (Council Tools FE36).
I do tend to favor hitting stuff that is resting against another piece and you'll see me manueuvering stuff around to give it some backing. A lot of times the inertia of the round is enough though. Remarkably even on small stuff.
@SkillCult I noticed that. Sometimes, a I like to use my axe for picking up and moving pieces too. Buckin Billy Ray does this in his videos occasionally.
@@shauncatlett6066 I do that as well, use it like a pickaroon. If you get it right, you can even throw it sometimes. Not gonna fly with a dull splitting maul though.
@@SkillCultt wont with a sharp 8lb maul either. I'm trying to learn the flick technique, but I'm not very good at it.
You raise some VERY good points in this one and have some great advice that I concur with. I also rarely use a block. One block I DO use is a low cut stump when I'm splitting where I fell it. Bonus points if it has a little slope to it for the reasons you mentiomed.
Like you alluded to, there is a time and place for every technique. I'm in east coast woodlands and cut a large variety of species. Poplar, oak, and straight grain maple I treat almost exactly as you do in this video. Tougher stuff i'll cut a low stump for. Hickory, elm, sycamore, etc I value my time and just use the hydraulic. Moving things, propping things up, turning things, etc. are time sucks. Do it when necessary but you'll save time minimizing it. A pickaroon will cut down a lot of it. Gives you the magic gorilla-length arm.
I love my old axes. For "work" splitting however I bought a fiskars. I dont care if it hits a rock, I've nicked it with a chainsaw. It's the most durable "disposable" tool.
Great video man.
As long as your a good sharpener with an axe stone and file this method is fine
I sharpen less than once a year, but I keep a pretty obtuse edge on my maul.
😃 'PromoSM'