COMMONLY AXED QUESTIONS: Straight vs Curved Axe Handles, Oh, the Controversy!
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2020
- Are straight handles better than curved or vice versa, meh, who cares. It's just not that big of a deal.
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Please make "Frequently AXED questions" into a mini series!
When you were doing the run in monologue I was expecting "and even them axe holes"...
oooh, good one :D
TS if you want to put some work into them they are great. I recommend going with either council tool or Hults Bruk/hultsafors
Dude that was your best intro yet
Great video, I totally agree with your take on "aesthetics" taking over the common sense. The strongest handle is invariably the one that follows the original grain as much as it's possible.
Whatever geometry was best for the tree is best for the axe handle out of that tree.
Three videos in a week? Amazing, thank you. That‘s a lot of information to process and think about.
"we should be united against logs" Best line ever!! :D
Intro was one banjo short of perfection.
The intro and exit are great. Just lost my dog n needed a good laugh. Thanks for that.
Sorry to hear that. Glad I could shine a little lightness your way this morning.
Coming from hammers I definitely prefer straight handles, they feel like what I’m used to. (They’re also a hell of a lot easier to make). Though I do like your idea of an asymmetric palm swell for bucking! I might have to try that.
I do understand the concept of how the curve is supposed to help compensate for balance (stinking axe smiths shoulda just made a balanced axe head if it was such a problem), but how many contemporary axe guys are actually applying the correct amount of curve to the handle to actually compensate for balance? Seems a lot of the curves are arbitrary and not purposeful (other than aesthetics).
Great video!
that end curve might throw off your angle of attack a little with a hammer, but never know til you try it I guess. It definitely fits the hand better when grabbing at the extreme end. I like that for the hatchet, as it gives me a little more length when wanted, but detracts in no way. Most traditional axes globally seem to have both straight handles and super front heavy heads, but there is a lot to be said for adaptation. I don't think that is a reason to completely dismiss balance and any ergonomic or balancing advantage to curved handles, but it's important to keep in mind nonetheless. ua-cam.com/video/x7Zw-JZIgfk/v-deo.html check out this vid and the axes used.
Got a legitimate lol out of me when you got to the "Oh the controversy" line. Perfectly delivered. You have to save that clip to smash cut into future videos like a running gag.
Nicely said as usual👍. I like a moderate curve as well on a single bit. I feel like it allows more potential energy in the swing than a straight handle. I could be wrong, (probably am) lol.
Swing what feels good.
I am always tweaking and developing my skills, methods and axes. Hanging and using alot of different style makes it easy to start pinning down what works best for you.
The experimentation and discovery is what keeps it so interesting.
Dude, that is an outstanding southern minister accent. Based on just the audio, if someone told me that was you, I would bet every dollar I have that it wasnt. You should incorporate that character more often 😁
😂 love the opening!
Now that's such a dramatic start to this video :D "You know what I'm talking about" was definitely the cherry on top. Great info, as always, and I can definitely see you've got this teaching thing. I personally prefer thin, curved handles in larger cutting axes and fairly straight, thin handles in splitting axes and hatches.
I had a good laugh at the end. I tend to cringe when voices aren't done well and the original can be heard through it, but I thoroughly enjoyed yours.
Great stuff Steven! Good chuckles and information!
I love it! Made a batch of super curves a few months ago. Hoffmannesque if you will. You’re totally right! They were flat out awkward. Needless to say they are shelved.
I was hanging something just yesterday and thinking about this, so this is great timing. I wondered if a curve would impart a bit of springiness, but the more I thought about woodgrain, the less that made sense. I settled on ergonomics, because putting extra work into making a tool handle for any other reason besides utility doesn't sound like something people would have time to just do during the time when axes were being developed and used for essential tasks daily.
And then again, it could be one of those "my grandpa's ax was curved, so my ax is curved" things that is the way it is because it is.
I love your humor, great intro
That's what I appreciates about ya...I agree...just find what you are comfortable with and put some hours in with it.
I just finished hanging 2 double bits on straight handles I made out of ash. Here's hoping they don't break when I first give them a swing.
I actually like curved handles on hatchets and straight on big axes. What I really don't like is the flared end on the handle that's quite frequent on store handles, it just messes my hand somehow and it's not comfortable.
Recently put new handles in some old axe heads from our family barn. This barn was built in 1880 and none of these are newer than 1958when my dad bought a homelite zip chainsaw. I now have new handles in 10 axe heads and can say that the double bit straight handle axes seem more natural and balanced to me. Good video and good advice ! An old axe head cast aside comes alive when you put a new handle in it.
neat.
Curved axe gives me a bit less fatigue on my wrist personally... but I've got a weird wrist due to a childhood injury. Best handle is the one that works for you and that you like to use.
Kind of what I was saying I guess, but sounds like you have a barometer to measure it by.
My hatchets that I make myself, I make them to fit a standard 16inch engineers hammer handle. Which has curves, but they are straight (IE swells and necks in the handle are even all around). Interesting to hear you have used a poll axe with a straight handle, it is something I have thought about doing.
Preach it brotha !
I've always wanted a longer version of the Gransfors Hunters Axe handle. Same straight handle with a little bit of toe to hang onto. But 28-ish inches long.
Sounds just like what I want to make.
I think you're right, pick one and chop with it, you'll get used to it. Growing up, we had old axes, double or single bit and they were straight handles, so that's what I stuck with because I'm used to it.
For hatchets, I really love the forward curve of the Gransfors Hunter's axe, and fortunately, a guy sold me his for $80 because he hated it.
Axes to axes, dust to dust.
If you don’t like curved handles, why tell us?
My experience as well. I prefer the Council handles, but mostly because I don’t have to hog off so much wood.
the intro is a killer
and outro
That intro was soo fricken good. I approve.
Different strokes. When I put that out a bunch of people unsubscribed lol. Some people don't have a sense of humor, or I'm just not funny. win some lose some.
@@SkillCult id rather loose subscribers and gain cooler ones in the process. Ive really binged on your channel lately its been great.
Ahmen to that! I really need to make a hatchet handle like yours, got a few heads that are ideal for it, just need to get some time. What head weight would you consider is ideal?
I always forget what my hatchet heads weigh, but this is pretty standard for American hatchets within a range of a couple ounces. Honestly, the acid test for me is if it's pulling down my pants when I tuck it in my belt ha ha. That's too heavy. But, I do like enough weight to have a little authority, even though I've also been a fan of very light hatchets with long handles. I also really like that filed out cut away a lot and will probably do it again in the future. If you set up a hatchet pretty much like that one, I think you will really like it. If I can find a note on the weight of that head, I'll let you know. I think I mentioned it in a vid. It's very similar to Kephart's hatchet, but his handle was 17 inches instead of 16 and overall weight slightly lower.
The more I use axes and hatchets I more ive grown to resent curved handles. Once you get use to the feel of a straight handled axe, curved handle egonomics end up just feeling wrong/slightly off.
I doln't mind some slight curvator in a single bit axe handle, the less curve the better it becomes though imo... between a slightly curved handle and straight handle I dont find vary much difference at all, the more curvy the handle becomes results in overall worse feel, comfort, and ergonomics though, when choosing a hardware store axe handle curvator of the handle is one of my top things to evaluate.
and I agree that a staight handle on a hatchet is an absolute must! and its sad to see that so many companies use excessive curves on hatchet handles that even if your local hardware store sells good axe handles (rarer and rarer these days) its near impossible to find a good straight hatchet handle locall.
which is extremely frustrating! I wish the hatchet side of the industry would switch to straight handles but its one of those things that is so standardized these days that switching to straight handled hatchets would greatly upset many consumers but overall would be great for the resurgence of well crafted, purpose build axes and hatchets.
I'm going to get rolls of hickory and ash raw hardwood veneer at .020" thicknesses and laminate them with some TB III. It's going to be vertically aligned from bit to poll. Probably about 24 layers thick in the eye. Can't imagine that alternating ash-hickory pva laminate is going to disappoint.
You might have issues with runout though in the thinner dimension. Any runout there is will be very short. Then again, with it all varying from sheet to sheet, who knows, it might even out. Remember that the handle is stressed in both directions.
My understanding of the curved handle is that it helps to compensate for an unbalanced axe head. Some pole axes have a center of gravity that is slightly ahead of center of the eye. This causes the bit to dive when swinging horizontally (actually, not vertically). The curve puts the hands closer to the center of gravity so the user doesn't have to prevent the bit from diving when swung. How big of a deal that is is up to the user.
i love how your beard wiggles lol
do you have thoughts on the insanely curved Norwegian battle axe (Norwegian peasant militia axe/peasant axe or peasant battle axe)? allegedly the intense curve towards the blade benefits cuts?
Glad to see a new video about axes! Apples were getting old :)
I never seen a straight handle on a felling axe. I put a Link's 32''( roughly, maybe a little shorter) hickory handle on a vintage Collins 3 1/2 lb single bit head last summer. I have to say I like the feel of it. Its something different for me. Personally, I don't have a preference myself. Both feel nice in the hands. Please keep preachin' the word!
Apparently they used to be more common. also, most Double bits would be considered felling axes. at least that is as much their purpose as anything.
I would be curious to know your thoughts on the Adirondack style axe. I live near the area, but I know very little about their shape and use.
I'm not familiar. I'm mostly the get an axe from a yard sale and put a handle on it guy. I only really started buying new axes for reviewing for new users. aside from the wedge axe I got, and a few things that were sent to me, I haven't collected much in the way of stuff that is available outside my area.
I just remembered what adirondack style is :) No, I really don't have an opinion. It seems odd. I'm sure a curved handle enthusiast could make an argument for them.
The logic is it combines the slight mechanical advantage of a curved handle with the balancing of a double bit. when the back bit which is intended to be used for more risky stuff like chopping near the ground, limbing gets chewed up faster and material is removed it still won't dive as much as a straight handle.
I watched a video that I quite agree with, that said the advent of curved handles came with the need for bucking. There are some advantages in terms of handle durability per weight when it comes to curved handles, but that is negligible when both handle types are properly made, and also when you consider that it's easier to make a good straight handle than a good curved one. Of course, with modern machining, you can design a good handle once and have the robot do it perfectly every time, but since every piece of wood is different, that's a bit harder than one might think. For glass fiber handles, for example, this would be a non-issue, and the durability aspect would be even more evident. But overall, I don't think that is the question we should be asking. The quality of the wood is a much more important aspect, and while each piece of wood will have a style of handle that is best suited for it re: grain runout, grain shape and direction (if you have a curved piece of wood, it's only natural to make a curved handle from it), the shape matters mostly as far as ergonomics are concerned.
Thanks for the thoughtful comment. I agree on wood quality and that will be discussed in another segment for sure. It trumps a lot of other factors. I don't understand that there was suddenly a need for bucking that did nor previously exist. I would think it would be the other way around as saws became cheaper and more available, bucking with axes would likely decrease. any thoughts on that?
I’m glad people axed the question
About the "slight curved at the end handle" - just look at carpenters hammers - they very often feature this type of handle.
I'll pay more attention to those. Ive got one I know that has a full on dog leg, but its pretty long.
01:30 lol my thing is oiling things with linseed oil, i love it! My hammer handles are oiled, axe handles, a 2 little wood statues, my Zapin (pickaroon, in my language) , a kitchen mallet a little carved wood beam and a kitchen tool. Its amazing.
Next time when i get a nice quality splitting axe or a higher quality pickaroon i will oil them too, haha.
My plan for the future is to put my future tool in an oil bath for a few months (with a nylon tarp to closely match the shape of the handle so i dont have to put many liters of oil in there). And i want to try burning my handles too, did you ever do that? I only saw it from bucking billy ray.
Btw i put a new handle on my grandfathers axe head. Head weights 2 and half pounds and the handle is 30 inches long. the fibers are good and long and not cut off, but the grain is 90° from the head. (idk how to explain, its the opposite way one considers "proper") From my limited expirence i got when i tried splitting a bit of wood, it seems too long for now. I found it very difficult to not overstrike with it while splitting. But i didnt use an axe in 1-2 years so my aim is off. I will see how long the head stays on or if the handle breakes.
I think it wont break because its a european style axehead with a large eye and the handle only gets wider very little, like a 1/4 inch.
It will be very interesting to see if my wedgeing stays tight and how the wedge angle affects things. Im very proud of my hang, the wood sticks out on top and is wider than the eye.
(btw how long and wide are american style ones for 2 and half pounds axeheads? can you please measure one? so i can compare)
you can also wrap it in oil soaked cloth, then in plastic to use less, as long as you save it and dont' let it dry out, or you will waste a lot of oil. Some like the grain at 90 degrees better. don't worry about that. You might wrap the top of the handle for 4 inches or so to keep it protected while you warm up. Even tape is okay. I have an american full sized head right here. It's about 2.5 inches, which I think is standard.
Thanks Steven. I guess after you talking me into using smaller axes, I prefer curved lol.
Christmas came waaaaayyyyy early this year with all these recent videos
trying to keep them coming!
you answered the questions nobody axed
Curious to what you have to say about it. I prefer a curved handle but I haven’t got much use in a straight handle so it’s hard to say
AMAN BROTHER
Great points about the straight vs curved handles. As long as it help me fell a tree or buck one, I don't care.
This being said, when to you plan to address the next big controversy: oval vs octogonal handles? 🤔
Keep up your excellent work!
I've never used a straight handled Axe, so I guess I am biased towards a curved handle.
I completely agree with you on owning and using only a few axes.
I can 100 percent agree on the using only 1 or 2 axes part...as a dude that owns (at last count) 129 axes of all doffernt patterns weights styles lengths and handle styles...I can 100 percent attest to the fact that that trying to use alot of axes all the time surely makes accuracy suffer at the start of useing each difffernt axe style....I have tried to have like a differnt axe for differnt purposes...like chopping small trees...smalling big trees....felling bucking...limbing....and splitting.....and 100 percent its much easier just to use 2 axes..... and maybe a splitting maul
Commenting from over here today, I let the wood designate the curvature of the handle. Rive it out and follow the grain. I also don't follow the grain running with the eye mandate. I run my axe handle grain across the eye. Mostly because I am following the most likely fact that if the grain runs the other way the handle is more likely to bow. Yeah, that old axe that was left leaning against the shed wall in the widows shed. Like it bowed because it was leaning against the wall! Your body will adjust quickly to an axe handle shape, I like your suggestion to stick to a couple axes. Oh those Jesse Reed axes! complete wall hangers.
I'm kinda peeved that even if I order handles from companies that are dedicated only to the business of making handles, they are still mostly crappy. I think I'm going to start using local hard woods over mail order handles (we don't have much hickory in New Hampshire) and just take my chances. I'm done with spending good money on crap purchases. I guess my question is, which would be the second best in wood for handles? Birch, oak, maple and occasionally even apple are all relatively abundant in the North East. Any favorites? Sorry if this is kinda off the topic.
Check all the hardware stores to see if anyone has handles that are well designed. Then you can show up every once in a while and sort through them. Here one caries a hardware store brand called do it best or just do it maybe. about 1 in 5 or 6 is good and the design is fine. You could even ask when they are coming in and get a jump on them. Otherwise, on the east coast, white oak, rock maple, locust, ash are good. and mentioned in old literature Air dried.
How do you spell the name of that challenge you mention towards the end?
Axe cordwood challenge. THere is a facebook group.
Purpose of curved axe handles? Sales gimmick around the time of the Civil War. Sales pitch: 'You'll whip through more cords of wood with a curved handle.' Result: broken handles and increased handle sales. Mission accomplished.
They are sorta sexy though, in some strange way.
You get a little bit of mechanical advantage out of a curved handle, also helps balance a more bit heavy head. very neutral heads work well with straight handles.
What do you see as the mechanical advantage?
Great vidéo as always! I totaly agree, it's more personal preference then any thing. I'll just ad that a straight handle is usualy faster to make. Personaly I'm in the staight, no palm swell team.
Good chooping !! lets get all those logs
#axeistsunitedagainstlogs ! I dont need a big palm swell, but I like some and at least a hook on the underside of some kind as a stop. End up dropping my axe all the time without anything. certainly easier to make straight handles for sure.
@@SkillCult
as a side note, in france 80% of the old axe handles I have seen, are straight, no palm swell, and with what would be conserd by many the wrong grain orientation
Oh and about curved or straight. I prefer straight mosty because i need strike platic felling wedges with my axe. And i like that the straight design has the fibers all the lenght of the handle from top to end.
But of course with a pommel swell. I learned that the hard way when i thinned down my other axe and made a wrong move and the pommel was gone.....im wiser now. lol
Hey have you seen the new Council Tool Flying Fox hatchet?
1.65lb head, 16" handle with a hardened hammer poll, proud hang/large hatchet eye, unpainted and council tools is marketing it as a camp hatchet/throwing axe, made in America and its backed by Council Tool's 20 year axe head guarantee.
They run for just $70 CAD so probably like $40-50 USD.
Would love to see you review one of them, from what i've seen council tools is doing some great things with the new "sports utility" axe line (I believe thats what its called) they also have a decently priced 25" dayton pattern axe but it doesnt have the hardened poll and the handles seem to be vary nicely made like vintage design ques right down to the thinness... from what i've see all the axe handles seem to be thinner then the head width and not overly curvy.
You should maybe try contacting roaster from axe junkies since hes involved with Concil Tools axes now from my understanding and with your platform he maybe able to send you some to test out free of charge and if hes at all familar with you and your channel he'd know your gonna give him a full hearted and honest review of the products no matter what!.
but even if you have to go out of pocket I think the new Council Tools Flying Fox Hatchet and Council Tool Dayton Axe
would be well worth the expense to review for your viewers as they seem to be some of the best axes being made right now at truly amazing price points/value for the money.
Im a vintage axe guy myself and have never owned a new store brought axe, having always choose to get used heads and instead restore them in the past... but the Flying Fox Hatchet is the first new axe/hatchet im seriously considering buying... the gransfors and hulks bruk both being a bit pricey/still needing handle mods out of the box. Council Tools new stuff seems to really be nailing it! and personally I mostly use a axe/hatchet camping so a hardened hammer poll is ideal for me and the FLying Fox hatchet is basically what ive always wanted to see mass produced by a modern axe company, having always wondered why hardened polls on camp hatchets phased out, Im truly happy to see council tools bringing it back since the used market for vintage hammer poll axes has gotten ridiculous in recent years.
I haven't. I'll check it out. NMot sure I'w want a hammer poll, but the handle length is right. I don't think I want to get free review goods. Iv'e thought about it with them and others and Prandi offered me stuff, but it's hard to stay objective if you're getting free stuff. I also don't want a bunch of new axes, but that means I also don't want to have to buy them :) Yeah, vintage is the way to go for the most part, I agree. especially considering that almost all out of the box axes need quite a bit of work, similar to hafting up a vintage head.
@@SkillCult Yeah I figured you wouldn't want free gear for that reason but with how deep you get with your axe handle talk and bit geometry etc etc your one of the few UA-cam axe guys, you'd think companies would want and appreciate your honest criticism good or bad... hence why I'd really like you to review one or two of the the CT sports utility axes... but like you say having them sent to you for sure makes it a bit tougher to be objective whether the company asks of you to give a good review of the product or not. I understand why youd feel obligated to give them positive feedback after being sent the products for free. And understand you not needing anymore spare axes laying around your property... if you were to do a product review on one, maybe you could give the axe away after testing, or sell/raffle it off in some way.
Ive done a bit further research myself and found a Bladeforums thread that has a vary good discussion and user reviews of the flying fox hatchet/sports utility line. It seems the handles are still a bit thick compared to good old vintage ones and the grain orientation is hit or miss since the handles are council tools "budget batch" compared to the premium batch handles used on the much more expensive velecut series of axes. But the overall consensus/feedback is vary positive!
There all pretty good bang for your buck, beyond the 16" flying fox hatchet, theres also a 25" Dayton(boys axe), and a 32" Jersey pattern(felling axe).
Apparently pre production, photos were shared on bladeforums and apparently the forum members there petitioned council tools to make it a hardened poll hatchet... pretty cool that CT actually took in consumers wants and was able to make it happen at a decent price point, also they claim the head design is inspired by/a mix of a plumb national/cedar, TT tommy axe, and old rafting axes... in the bladeforums thread in the first few pages someone posted a vintage rafting boys axe with nearly the same head pattern just with a larger/heavier weighted head I assume.
Anyways thanks for the quick reply, I for sure hope your eventually able to review a sport utility axe or two.
For those curious heres the bladeforums discussion link I mentioned.
www.bladeforums.com/threads/council-tool-flying-fox.1684051/page-5
I tell ya whuts the truth Son, I have strong feelings fer ser! My answer to that thar strate or kerveez handle is a powerful yep! Thanks Brother Steve for a plum fine feelossifyin video! DaveyJO in Pa.
Axe-actly, time to bury the hatchet!
Ha Ha!
Funny bit at the top. : )
Cheers.
I know this is an old video but I recently found your channel. You see this is many forms of fear anymore. Saws, knifes, axes, etc. People really fixate on something that is basically irrelevant instead of using what they have and using it well. My choices basically echo yours with the one exception being a straight handle on axes used for timber falling where the actual cutting edge is serves almost no purpose and the poll is where the action is. For that specific use I prefer a straight handle but have used curved as well when that was what I had at hand.
Yeah, beating on wedges with a curved handle isn't the best, but I've done it a lot too.
Personally I prefer a straight handle because I'm used to using axes with slip fit eyes. But generally I find that the differences are negligible on a full length handle while in use.
To me it depends on the grain when it comes time to carve an axe handle the handle follows the grain.
If it even does matters, I think it depends on the type of the axe and the origin of the axe. For instance, here in Bulgaria we almost do not have curved handles. We use historically bearded axes and we have only one type with curved handle - it's for chopping square beams. All others no matter for falling, chopping or splitting are straight handled. I'm not in any way expert or kind of a daily user, it's just my observation.
Just a question: my 8lbs sledge, Polanski axe and pick axes all have 36" straight handles. Is there a reason for this? Is it based on the weight of the head? Wondering.
It seems to be kind of an American standard that started later. There is no need to haft heavy heads on long handles. For splitting though, I prefer it for sure. Otherwise, depends on the work.
That was some great acting
ohh the eternal dilemma, straight or curved, i use hatchets mostly, and like u i prefer straight or less curved handles. the husqvarna hatchet has a same handle like the hultafors 500g classic trekking axe. i did carve the handle the same way as u showed how u would done it. that way is quiet ok.
It seems like it will be okay enough. I wish it was 1 inch longer. 1 inch shorter and I wouldn't have considered it.
In my opinion "french curve" designed handles which have become a popular aesthetic and also Liam hoffman handles are in practical application, crap.
In general I tend to agree that it really doesnt matter as long as you are confident with your axe. I also change axes far, far more than most. The only time it affects me is when I go from using a 5lb racer to a boys axe.
Nice video, its kept me entertained whilst wasting my life away on a very delayed train home due to storms here in the UK.
I don't follow current trends or know what the french curve handles are, but I've just noticed hear and there over the past few years some pretty extreme curves that are clearly for aesthetics. If someone believes they are that much better functionally, or detract in no way (besides grain integrity obviously, that's a hard factor) I'm not going to spend my time trying to convince them otherwise. the curviest curved handles I've used are the ones I've liked the least.
Oh yeah, and I thought of you actually when shooting this regarding using a lot of axes. I even made a short disclaimer about frequency of chopping and such regarding that. You get a huge amount of chopping in compared to what almost anyone can do, so it's easier to adapt. But for most of us, there is a lot to be learned I think about the potential for an axe to really feel like an extension of us if we stick with one until we can really get some chops with it and get into flow state. It's pretty cool that you can use those all pretty competently as far as I can see.
@@SkillCult exactly the same mentality is applied to clay shooting. That you should ideally find one axe/gun that fits you/you perform well with and you should stick to it. It makes a lot of sense to me to stick to 1 axe to become totally in tune with it.
All depends on the task at hand
I recently saw one of Tanner Wilcox's videos about straight vs curved handles and I think he made it all clear to me why curved axes have their role and why even highly curved axes are a necessity for some axe heads that are unbalanced. I tried to use his theory in my axe handle making process and it seems to be quite useful. Did you see that video?
I haven't watched it yet, but a couple people mentioned it. I'll watch it at some point. I haven't noticed any great difference on poll axes, but then I don't use any of the super front heavy traditional European axes.
@@SkillCult Its interesting though as a lot of old European Axes tend to have straighter handles despite being very much blade heavy. In my experience anyway.
When are your scions going on sale?
should be the 13th for patrons, will announce on patreon when ready and the 15th at midnight for the general public.
@@SkillCult quick question if you have the time, I want to get some scions but my plan was to not graft them to any root stock or onto another tree and letting them root themselves but everything I see says scions rooting on their own is a bad thing and I am not sure why. Do you have any advice for getting the scions to root on their own and why or why not that's a bad idea?
A lot of Dudley Cook's argument about curves is dependent on the "Axis of central pivot" (I forget what exactly he calls it). He presents a lot of numbers and diagrams showing how twisting a curved handle puts the axis of rotation way outside of the center of gravity, and any errors in accuracy are greatly exaggerated with curved handles due to the change in the axis of rotation. This all goes out the window when you actually pick one up and twist it. An object is basically always going to want to rotate in-line with its center of mass, and on an axe that center of mass is mostly dictated by the head. I like a little curve, I don't think it makes any difference.
Not much anyway. I do like the feel of a double bit with a straight handle, but it seems easy to adapt to moderately curved handles.
I don’t know why, but this guy seriously reminds me of Karl kasarda from inrangeTV, in a good way.
Great video!
Hey now. Some of my best friends are logs.
He's out of the closet y'all! He WAS a not so closeted rational thinker.
You explained your coming out with logic, a cool head, and real life experience. My fedora hat is off to you, sir.
Laughs in Finnish axe handle*
Video ends at 1:22
Funny tchet man! Your segue into hillbilly seemed shockingly natural.
Dear Sir here in south Africa there is not a lot axes and I dont have....but I am intrested A LOT kind regards Michael
Hi Butch. Axes are fun! There must be some kind of local traditional native axes there.
@@SkillCult thank you for replying here in South Africa it is kind of a mix but we dont have a trditional felling axe but some of the tribe did use some for war... I am looking at hultafors axes what is your thoughts about them... kind regards
@@butchvandyk1051 I think the hultafors American style felling axe looks good, but haven't used or seen in person. Check out Ben Scott, he likes them and shows them in vids. One of those in 2.25 or 2.5 lb with about 28 inch handle is a good all around starter axe. stay safe.
@@SkillCult I real need to commend you for replying wow thank you there is so many that just dont reply....it means a lot...ooo yes and keep up the good work...
Hi it is me again from South Africa you gave me sound advice and just want to know from you is wetterlings felling axe ? I can get one here but the other one you recommend is a bit difficult... Can get the HB quavort felling axe in 26"
Or the wetterlings American felling axe 31" hope you can help. Kind regards .
What are your thoughts on using a hatchet to fell a tree?
they can be surprisingly effective, up to a point obviously. but its very dangerous given that you have to be so close. Upcutting with a hatchet on a tree trunk for either limbing or felling is extra dangerous. I had a hatchet whiz by my face once while trying to limb a standing tree and never made that mistake again! the other thing is that the lighter the axe, the more velocity you need to make it work. lt is easy to lose control or for our aim to suffer at high speeds. there is a diagram in mors Kochanski's bushcraft where he shows leaning against the tree with one hand while cutting low on the trunk. That is a good strategy, because it keeps most of your body away from the blade, whereas if you stand close to the tree and cut high, you are much closer to the blade. cutting low makes it more likely that you will hit the ground if the bit glances off and cutting only downward, or down for the top cut and horizontal for the lower cut at least will help too. but it's still largely about control, aim and measured chopping and it can be a little risky. watch in this video, how I snap the hatchet into the log It's not a strength thing, as much as a velocity thing. that is how you make them cut deep. also, hatchet handles are too short, 16 inches is what I like. It gives a little more mechanical advantage and working room.
@@SkillCult Thanks. :)
LOL YFI!
Only now I see the huge log in the room.
Lol. Premium.
Long story short. Dont buy a Hoffman axe handle lol
Im Bi-axeual. I like em both.
2 axe videos so close? are you selling out bro?
yes, for sure.
People that get their panties in a wad about axe handles probably have to much spare time.
well I think there are things that matter and things that don't and given the ubiquitousness of straight handles globally on tradtional axes, it's hard to argue too much against them
Straight on doubles, curved on singles.
talk about a can of worms
Boop
Just a stab in the dark but were you a jaded Portlander hipster who got disillusioned by modern society and decided to seek an alternate lifestyle out in the countryside?
You have brilliant insight into your own lack of insight, you just need to listen to yourself. I believe in you Ivan! Try 53 years old and dedicated to self reliance and subsistence skills since I was 18. Probably better than you at everything. Definitely smarter ha ha.
@@SkillCult Hey don't get me wrong! I am a fan of your videos. Just a stab in the dark.
I guess the woman in my life like the curve better.
...just please don't do that.