Just getting it torqued in that position is fine, because when you go to the alignment shop they will be re torquing them in the proper position. Even with it on the ground your torque won’t be accurate due to it needing to be redone at the alignment shop.
So, after a few phone calls about the cam bolts stripping out I found out something. Other shops had encountered this as well and it occurs because the bolt has a flat side and the nut is round. When the nut is spun on by an air ratchet or your augadogga the rpm’s spin the nut so fast the threads can cross thread. Simple solution is to install these by hand tools only.
Sorry for the late response! Awesome research 🤘🏼 typically that is when it’s just recommended to replace them, because including myself people find them selves not doing it the right way always even when the wrong way works, but doesn’t make it right. You never really know what the previous guy did.
Yes, so under load when towing they are awesome! Empty they a pretty stiff. That’s to be expected, and what they are built for. When I am more so driving “off road” they are soft as well. It all depends on what kind of ride you are looking for, because my LBZ leveled out rides worse than my LB7 on a 6” lift cranked down.
@@RBoysMedia lol thanks I have a newborn so o am always up. For the cam pins as an upgrade I don’t believe they are any better of a metal than the OEM ones. Pretty sure they are the same type of came pins. So you aren’t getting any upgrade if you went with some from AutoZone vs Kryptonite cam pins.
I watched another UA-cam video where a mechanic was installing the Kryptonite UCA'S on a Chevy Silverado with a two inch leveling kit and he called Kryptonite directly and they told him to mount the upper ball joint underneath not on top....???????
Getting ready to install these myself on my 2500HD with a two inch leveling kit..... I am calling Kryptonite first thing tomorrow morning for clarification
@@moefilbert let us know what they say. When I called they said to mount them on the bottom with any lifted truck…even leveled. Hopefully they tell you the same.
@@phillipyounkins7432 alright I gotcha. So no I did not use anything on install. When you install the bushings and slide that sleeve in them on the control arm there is a gap between the bushings that has the sleeve exposed. That gap is where your grease from your fitting should be greasing. My suggestion would be to grease it until it comes out the sides, and make sure you use high quality grease. If that does not fix it spray some penetrating oil preferably SiliKroil which also acts as a lubricant into the bolt that slides through that sleeve. That could be where your squeaking is coming from.
That really all depends anything over level is technically too much, but I’ve never had any issues with my lbz and that’s not even close to level CV angles. This will be a topic I maybe can throw something together on 👍
@@DIYDiesel Thank you, I did have to buy new rims! I had stock 18’! I put 295/70/18. On and had clearance issues, at the Kryptonite a arm and the inside of the top of the tire! Had to buy a 18 off set rim!!!
@@brianyoung938 ya I didn’t know you where running such large tires. Ya 295 is too large for the stock rims. Even with stock UCAs you’ll run into that issue.
Awesome information. Need to get it done to my truck, now. Thanks for posting this!! Great work!!
Thank you! You won’t regret it 👏
I thought you were supposed to torque the bolts with the upper arm close to ride level as possible? Not hanging down like you did
Just getting it torqued in that position is fine, because when you go to the alignment shop they will be re torquing them in the proper position. Even with it on the ground your torque won’t be accurate due to it needing to be redone at the alignment shop.
It's almost like this guy has never heard of pb blaster works just as good and cheaper. And found at any auto store
I sipped a beer every time I heard Kroil, drunk by 7 minute mark..
Soaked nuts boss! Sorry man.. I had to! Lol great vids! Love the truck
😆 trust me I had to edit out some laughing, and words after I realized what I said 😆 Thank you 🙏 Appreciate the support! 🤝
Solid video man. 👍
Thank you sir!
Any one got any tips for lower control arms?
Ease up on the coffee Mr. Kroil, LOL #1 pre-soak the day before,#2 Brake Drum??? LOL
Bro them ball joints are installed wrong
If Billy Mayes had a son….
Are the cam bolts worth the upgrade? I’m seeing reviews of them stripping out. I’m not sure if I should chance it or go acdelco.
So, after a few phone calls about the cam bolts stripping out I found out something. Other shops had encountered this as well and it occurs because the bolt has a flat side and the nut is round. When the nut is spun on by an air ratchet or your augadogga the rpm’s spin the nut so fast the threads can cross thread. Simple solution is to install these by hand tools only.
Sorry for the late response! Awesome research 🤘🏼 typically that is when it’s just recommended to replace them, because including myself people find them selves not doing it the right way always even when the wrong way works, but doesn’t make it right. You never really know what the previous guy did.
Great video! Looking to get the stage 3 kit for my LLY, did you notice a big difference after the install and the fox shocks?
Yes, so under load when towing they are awesome! Empty they a pretty stiff. That’s to be expected, and what they are built for. When I am more so driving “off road” they are soft as well.
It all depends on what kind of ride you are looking for, because my LBZ leveled out rides worse than my LB7 on a 6” lift cranked down.
@@DIYDiesel thanks for the reply
@@oscarlopez2599 no problem! Thanks for the support 🤝
How does this differ for an L5P?
There L5P ones are the same as these. The factory l5p also have press in upper ball joints. This will give you bolt in ones.
Finally installing mine Tomorrow and forgot to get the cam pins. Anyone think they actually make a difference?
If yours are in good shape you can re use them. You do need them, because they help with alignments.
@@DIYDiesel I meant the upgraded ones vs stock. Quick reply thanks my man!
@@RBoysMedia lol thanks I have a newborn so o am always up. For the cam pins as an upgrade I don’t believe they are any better of a metal than the OEM ones. Pretty sure they are the same type of came pins. So you aren’t getting any upgrade if you went with some from AutoZone vs Kryptonite cam pins.
@@DIYDiesel really appreciate it man. It’s one of those worries I had. The content is awesome for us guys
@@RBoysMedia thanks for the support 🤘 I try to reply as soon as possible.
I watched another UA-cam video where a mechanic was installing the Kryptonite UCA'S on a Chevy Silverado with a two inch leveling kit and he called Kryptonite directly and they told him to mount the upper ball joint underneath not on top....???????
Going off of there instructions directly 🤷♂️
@@DIYDiesel ua-cam.com/video/RgpSGrx0iTE/v-deo.html
Getting ready to install these myself on my 2500HD with a two inch leveling kit..... I am calling Kryptonite first thing tomorrow morning for clarification
@@moefilbert not a bad idea at all 👍
@@moefilbert let us know what they say. When I called they said to mount them on the bottom with any lifted truck…even leveled. Hopefully they tell you the same.
Did you have to grease the upper bushing on the install ? Mine squeak like crazy
Both bushings get greased yes. You should have installed a grease fitting on both ends of the control arm that comes with the kit 👍
@@DIYDiesel I did install the fitting. I mean grease in between the bushing and control arm sleeves when you put them in
@@phillipyounkins7432 alright I gotcha. So no I did not use anything on install. When you install the bushings and slide that sleeve in them on the control arm there is a gap between the bushings that has the sleeve exposed. That gap is where your grease from your fitting should be greasing. My suggestion would be to grease it until it comes out the sides, and make sure you use high quality grease.
If that does not fix it spray some penetrating oil preferably SiliKroil which also acts as a lubricant into the bolt that slides through that sleeve. That could be where your squeaking is coming from.
@@DIYDiesel Thanks for the info and the time to make the video.
@@phillipyounkins7432 absolutely anymore questions don’t hesitate to ask! Thank you for the support 🤝
Anybody having the upper arm riding on the bump stop ?
Do you have the ball joint on top or underneath?
@@DIYDiesel underneath
How much is to much angel for the cv axles and tie rods
That really all depends anything over level is technically too much, but I’ve never had any issues with my lbz and that’s not even close to level CV angles. This will be a topic I maybe can throw something together on 👍
@@DIYDiesel Thank you, I did have to buy new rims! I had stock 18’! I put 295/70/18. On and had clearance issues, at the Kryptonite a arm and the inside of the top of the tire! Had to buy a 18 off set rim!!!
@@brianyoung938 ya I didn’t know you where running such large tires. Ya 295 is too large for the stock rims. Even with stock UCAs you’ll run into that issue.
This is a great video! Love it man, great job
Appreciate it!
bro is paid sponsor for kroil if not so wet for kroil. if it was so great why is your truck so crusty after 2 years
also not to hate but i would recoomend going back to oem style brake lines blew out 3 of the 5 stainless lines nearly crashed.
Never herd of stainless brake lines blowing out lol
Because it’s a penetrating oil? 🤦🏼♂️🤔