GM Duramax Thermostat Replacement Made Simple - Mechanics Minute
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2024
- Does your Duramax truck seem to not heat up? A lot of times this problem is caused by worn out thermostats. In this video we explain the causes and effects of worn thermostats and then show how to replace them.
In this case, we are working on a 2005 LLY Duramax but the procedure to replace the thermostats is similar on other years.
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A little more to it than I thought, but nothing too in depth. Just got a quote for $585 to do this. Thanks for saving me $500 of take home pay! It really helps keep the family fed. And that means more than you know. God Bless.
The best how to for changing these thermostats I've seen. Thanks very much.
This by far the best video of all I’ve watched. Thank you.
Wow!! totally different method than most other videos on youtube. First one i have seen that removes the ac compressor and oil fill tube but seems simple enough. I need to do this to my LLY. Thanks for the video,that will help me a bunch.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. Glad I didn’t have to unplug the engine harness and waste more time.
Very helpful.
IF YOU ARE GOING TO ATTEMPT THIS AT HOME!!! Save yourself some time!!!!!! I just installed 2 thermostats in my LLY. There is no reason at all to pull off the AC Compressor, OR anything else for that matter. Take the bolts out of the thermostat housing, and the bolt out of the top of the thermostat housing that holds all the wiring, and the Bolt on the hardline bracket and you can lift the housing 3 to 4 inches. The thermostats will go right in! It literally took me 15 minutes TOTAL! PS - I didn't drain the system either! Every video on youtube says to take the compressor off! Trust me there is NO NEED!
Same here.
Would this work on 08 lmm duramax
How did you get the bolts out of the driver side head without pulling the mounting bracket?
That man who made this video really likes his working space, I just Isaw another video where the guy just removed the bolts that hold the oil reservoir left them all in place just took out the bolts and still remove the bolts from the thermostat housing
Great Advice 👍 Much appreciated 🤠🏁💨🤘🏻🤣
Awesome video takes the worry out of thinking I can't do this myself , I'm totally not afraid to attempt this on my own thanx so much for taking the time to make this
Nothing to it!
Great video. Thanks. 07 gmc and I unbolted the oil fill tube, but just rotated it out of the way. That way I didn't have to worry about coolant getting in the oil.
Been putting this project off for awhile, watched video, did it. Done in an hour Thank you so much.
helpful. got me started. I did not have to move the A/C or remove the serpentine belt. 2008. hardest part is draining coolant. should have tried leaving oil fill tube on. I think it can be left on. big risk of getting coolant in oil if removed. be aware. have 2 gallons of new coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water on hand before starting.
It can certainly be done that way, but found it easier to show the detail on the job with the items removed. Even still it does not add much time to the job. The LMM would add more work with the fan shroud on the 06 and newer trucks.
Great video easy to understand and to the point ,I,m about to do mine thank you .
cant wait for more videos. thanks for the tip on the hood. I never knew that was there. thanks
hddm3, When I realized that little trick myself years ago, it was one of those "ah ha!" moments. Glad you like the video's!
First I want to say thank you for this video. It was very helpful. That being said...I just got done doing this without removing the oil fill tube. There was plenty of room to work with it in place. Just figured I'd share that. Why remove it if you don't have to.
Anon ymous thank you for this information I'm going to do mine today
I was thinking the A/C pump was over kill as well?
Made for better filming with it removed seems like a good call to me.
Anon ymous the bolt that holds my filler tube in place, got lost somehow and I was wondering if you knew the specs of it?
@@YZFoFittie Not really, it gives you a whole lot more room to work. Not that bigga deal to DC 2 elect plugs and remove 4 bolts. It also gives you a better view of other components in case there is a loose bolt/leak or crack somewhere in there. Good luck with your repair!.
Nice Job. Thanks for the Tutorial on how to perform this task.
Can't thank you enough for such an informative video!!
Great video. I never knew that trick with the hood. Thanks
Very informative. Thank You!
never gave a thought that my lost of MPG is related to my p00128 trouble code. Im going to defiantly try this.
Great video . Simple and to the point!
Thanks!
Absolutely concise and relevant
Excellent professional and fast! Thanks! More videos please!!
+jeremy xf1100turbo Thanks, glad you like the information!
Great video, best description, tech info and tips .. keep it up
Thanks Allison!
Thanks for a very well done video,very helpful.
Excellent video!
Well done video thank you for the info.
How much coolant needs to be removed to do this? I have an '06 LBZ with no drain plug(not smart, thanks GM), guess I need to partially remove the lower rad hose to drain the coolant. Thanks for the video and Marry Christmas!
man thanks for the video you help me a ton best video on UA-cam
Curious - Does the LML not use an O-Ring on the metal upper coolant pipe? Your kit for 2011-2016 (SKU 10513) says it includes the 2 T-Stats, and an O-Ring for the Oil Fill Tube. No mention of the one for the hard pipe that connects to the T-Stat Housing. I looked through all of your Cooling System parts for the LML, and no such O-Ring is listed. Just wanting to make sure I order everything I need for the job. Thank you.
Great video thank you very much
You're welcome @keithexum7312, glad it was helpful!
Excellent Video! would love to see a video of the same job but in a Chevrolet Express with the Duramax. It seems way more difficult and I can't seem to find a video on it.
I’m not sure if you’ve tried this but the console/inside hatch can be removed for better engine access.
Do you really need to change the thermostat since they are designed to fail in the open position? Thanks
If the thermostats are not working and the engine does not come up to operating temperature, it will lead to many issues beyond simply not having heat. A diesel engine requires heat for combustion and an engine running cold will not run properly, especially on a newer truck with emission systems. The emissions systems will not work properly if engine temperature is not as it should be
Thanks great video! My 2006 LBZ has 61k miles never changed thermostats or flushed radiator fluid do you recommend as preventive maintenance or wait a little more miles? Thanks
My LBZ started showing low temps @ about 100K miles. Replace them with better t-stats other than stock, in my nsho. I used the Mishimoto t-stats from XDP diesel.
Can you link the new radiator o ring? What size is it if I ask auto zone
What about the two 0 rings you took off the housing? I didn’t see you put them back on?
Does the housing need a gasket or form a gasket on it?
I noticed my ECT is usually at 177F at operating temperature. Is this within spec still or should I replace?
Great info, thanks
How urgent is it to replace the thermostats if they are stuck open? Aside from poor fuel consumption, are there other negative impacts to the thermostats being stuck open?
No heat!
What about on a 2008 LMM? Is it a different process
Great video. Thank you very much.
Will this work the same for LMM ?
Not sure why they call for removing the AC compressor. It doesn't have to be taken off to change the thermostats. I just changed them on a 2007 classic 2500HD. The oil filler neck does, and the bolt that hold the hose down, and the electrical plugs. Other than that it isn't bad at all.
I saw two rubber o rings come off the housing but didn't see them go back on?
It looks like those came from the top of the old thermostats
excellent video
nice video. so the coolant temp went from 160 to 180, what would be the benefits, why not let it run at 160?
Diesel dont run efficient if they are running cooler/colder then normal. 180-190F is normal operating temps of the Duramax & runs most efficient at those temps.
+TDNomad thanks
Would be very helpful to know if this truck has a radiator drain, I have looked on my 2006, can't find it. Gues will have to take off bottom hose.
no radiator drain in my 2007 Silverado Duramax 3500 LBZ
Be sure to remove your cloth underneath when you are taking the thermostat housing out in case any free spills over but after you put your new thermostats in and cover it up and you open the bleed hole valve haha you realize your cloth is no longer under there and you still had any free spill out everywhere
what size is the "upper radiator pipe seal" looks like an o-ring. can't find one when looking online. want to make sure I have everything when I dig into it.
The upper pipe seal is included in our thermostat kit. You can find it at the link in the description above as well @dmproske
in my eyes, working on these in a gm dealer, i find if it does not ever move off the quarter mark(180 deg) according to the so accurate temp gauge.... then the t-stat is done. it should be moving around closer to the 210 mark when on high way and around town
If your heat is hot, its working, The gauges have a tendency to fail before anything.
Not everybody has same "feel" for hot. A scanner or other device to see what is being displayed accurately will give you most accurate representation.
Why did GM remove the bleed screw on the LML? Such a pain to bleed the cooling system of air.
That little hose to the left of the thermostats, is there just a oring? Mine started leaking from it I believe.
bwboley87 , I assume you are referring to the heater pipe? It's just behind the coolant temp sensor and uses a bolt to hold the pipe in. There is an o-ring seal on that. Part number is 94011605 and you can find one here - www.merchant-automotive.com/p-2821-heater-pipe-seal.aspx
Is the belt tensioner 1/2 or 3/8 drive?
1/2
I was having a series heat problem and engine warmth issue, along with some other problems, with my LB7 last year. Turned out to be a bad head gasket.
Will this cause the veins to stay closed on the turbo, because the engine temp is too low?
Do you have to drain a lot of the coolant to replace them? I have the LMM so it's a pain in the rear to drain
Billy, it is not required to drain the cooling system to install these.
It does reduce the mess some but given there is no drain on the
radiator on the LMM, I would just choose to deal with the little miss
you will get on the top of the engine. Just be sure to rinse the
spilled coolant off completely before starting the engine as coolant on
the belt for long term could lead to a squeak.
I appreciate it so much for the quick response.. plan on seeing my name buying some stuff from you.. I've heard alot of good things about your company!
Man what socket swivels are you using? Those are the jam!
These are Snap On units, very handy sockets indeed!
+Merchant Automotive I am looking at purchasing my first diesel duramax LLY with 82k miles on it. Thoughts?
Good strait forward video. Can anyone tell me if besides gas mileage and heat, does it affect anything to drive with a bad thermostat? My lmm threw the code few days ago.
My '06 LBZ has been throwing a cold code for a few months, and I clear the code with my edge tuner. My concern is the rubber seal on the thermostats deteriorating, and possibly clogging cooling passages in the radiator. I'm replacing mine with Mishimoto low temp thermostats as I live in the desert in Arizona and tow a 12K travel trailer 4-6 times a year. Not sure if any of the d-max's will go into limp mode with a continuing low temp code.
I was wondering if you knew the specs of the bolt that holds the oil filler tube on? Mine got lost
Levi Brett it is a 8x1.25 thread and about 15mm long
Eric Merchant and it’s a 12mm head correct?
Mine got lost and I have been looking trying to find the size for it and nobody knows all I know is that it was a 12mm socket
Factory one is a 12mm head yes but in a pinch, it’s not required to be same head
Eric Merchant alright, but the 8x1.25 by 15mm length is the correct size?
so that's more of just a radiator bleed not a system flush for the coolant. how do you get the fluid out of the damn block on these trucks. I flushed out all my old coolant but now my block is full of tap water how do I flush it ALL out so that I can refill it with proper mix and de-ionized water?
BigB there is a block drain on each side. Right behind the starter and the left side in front of the motor mount. It is a 17mm size plug
okay and thats for the LLY yea? thanks a lot I'll look for those today :D !
Re-install radiator 'drain plug'... you mean reinstall lower radiator hose.
Depends on the year of the truck. 01-05 trucks do have a drain plug. 2006 and newer don't get that luxury
@@merchantautomotive that's interesting.
Need a belt routing diphram for a 2005 Chevy duramax 6.6 liter engine
Vernon Farrell head to the App Store or google play and download the Merchant Automotive app. It will have all of that info and more for you Vernon! And it’s free!
What would a shop charge I wonder?
That will vary by individual shops, labor rates etc.
I was quoted $1,000 parts and labor - went to the Chevy dealership purchased OEM Tstats, Temp Sensor, & Cap for $260. Now I need about 3Gallons of DexCool and I’ll be good as new!
How is the serpentine belt removal done exactly? What tool/socket is used there? I've got the LLY '04 Duramax. Also what all gaskets/O-rings are used in the replacement. I've seen these round O-rings for the housing holes online but also seeing a 4 bolt gasket that I did not see replaced in this vid. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2653922&cc=1431804&jsn=536&jsn=536
Man either you’re missing some parts or I just suck cuz that was more difficult than you guys made it look lol
Elias Stonehocker if you have a 2006 or newer truck it will be a bit more involved. The video was done with an earlier truck.
Eric Merchant yeah it’s an 07 classic the fan had a guard behind it and the oil tube resonator bracket was all one part I got it done earlier didn’t get to really run it had to take the kids trick or treating lol
I have an LB7 just finished this job the only thing I took off, ac compressor, upper rad hold down bracket. Gives you just enough space to get them out an back in.
This video is a bit confusing and why do you need to take off the oil holder and take off the belt?
Thanks , Pretty Cool ... I mean HOT!
JB
It is a pretty simple job with huge benefits! Especially this time of year.
Wish it was that easy on the 2009 hd
There are more things to work around for sure on the later trucks.
Anyone every done one for th eL5P?
Have not recorded that yet, but I'll put that on the list of video's to create!
I think its a great chance to make a lot of Videos for the L5P as there are hardly any out@@merchantautomotive
This video is absolutely useless without telling the position of the forward sensor, there is a little breather on that one as well
Not sure what you mean by the Forward Sensor? The bleed holes are called out at about the 3:15 mark on where they locate. If you can clarify, be happy to explain better if something missing
Thanks for that, very informative.