Replacing Lower Control Arms with Torsion Bars is EASY Silverado Sierra 01-16
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Get your ceramic coating here!
Torsion Bar Tool:
www.amazon.com...
Kryptonite control arms
Kryptonite death grip tie rods, center link, pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket
Kryptonite wheel bearings
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Truck: 2006 LBZ Duramax
Wheels: 24x12 American Force Idol
Tires: 305/35 R24 Nitto 420V
Suspension: Stock Front, 3 inch Lowered Rear
Boost Auto Parts LED Switchback Tow Mirrors
Black Label Lighting white rock lights
Paint Match Bumper and Flares Summit White
Auxbeam Headlights
Auxbeam Fog Lights
Other Mods:
Arp Head Studs
WC Fab Y Bridge Kit (Gloss Black)
LB7 Up Pipe
WC Fab PCV Reroute
Merchant Auto Welded Water Pump
Kryptonite control arms
Kryptonite death grip tie rods, center link, pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket
Kryptonite wheel bearings
5 inch Straight Pipe
10 inch Axle Dump
Yes! Thanks for this video! I have never worked on torsion bars before. My nervousness made it out to be much worse than it actually was.
I left keys in place, and left axle in place. My control arms came right out. Trusty Rusty is about to be back in the game, haulin' bike parts! All thanks to you, brew! Lol. Thanks for the video! Much appreciated. And the arms on yours look good that color! 👍
Thanks man! Glad it worked helping you out! Thats why I make these vids!
same here.
I live in New England, struggled with torsion bars many times. Now I can remove them in less than 10 seconds. I purchased a cheap 11lb. electric demo hammer, just use that where you would normally bear to free up, damn it was amazing. Give it a try.
That's genius!
Lower truck onto a jack stand (or use floor jack) placed under control arm to simulate truck weight and then tighten the control arm bushings, gives you a little more room then when the wheel is on and it's on the ground.
That would definitely work too!
I was thinking of making this same comment.
Tip from the rusty north. Save your old torsion bar for down the road and grind a bit off the key end so you can use it to beat on the A arm portion to loosen it if you work on multiple similar vehicles .
Not a bad idea!
I have never had to remove the torsion keys to change lower control arms. Just unload the key
How
@@justinbrown6535 I know this is an old post but incase someone else wants to know what you do is loosen up the entire lower arm take and take apart the ball joint from the knuckle, next you just loosen up the bolt from the torsion bar (don't remove it) since there's no "twisting" pressure being applied now that you've take apart the lower arm. Finally you take the two bolts out of the lower arm you might need a jack to remove some pressure from the bolt closest to the torsion bar slot on the lower arm, once you have both bolts out you should be able just pull down on the lower and slide it off the torsion bar..... If you live in a road salt state you'll probably need the unloading tool, prybar, and hammer
@@SuperRaseanthanks man
Well done gentlemen, I have a '93 silverado and I bought ball joints some time back because my truck leans way down on the drivers side. I won't sell it because these joints are really worn, could come apart and I sure don't want that to happen to the new buyer while driving my old truck, liability perhaps, sure don't want that. Now I can do it myself safely, unload the bars, yeah! The trick was searching for torsion bars first, Not ball joints, lots of goofy mechanics replacing joint and not unloading bars, wow! Ball joints locally installed about $1200.
Wow I sure wouldn't want to pay 1200 for that! Its really not too bad at home
I been working on these things for the past 20 years and this is the best vid i've seen so far. Thank you
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for the video and the detailed explanation. I figure i can do just about anything if i can find someone who explains things well. Well done, im doing the front end this weekend. Ill have this video on my garage tv.
That's exactly how I am! Glad it could help! I always think "it's just nuts and bolts!"
Going to be redoing the entire suspension on my '05 Avalanche and had never seen torsion bars before as this is my first truck, so really appreciate the video!
Of course! It's some work to get them off but it's not too bad!
Dude i have an 02 avalanche im doing the supention too dont forget to torue to spec ,
I'm in MA and my pickup is an 07. Torsion bar was hopelessly rusted in tried that trick, tried a jackhammer, heat, bottle jack, no luck. The sawzall got it though. Two torsion bars in a crossmember later
OMG that makes for a fun day...
We dont need the intro just do it man you dont know how much we appreciate the straight to it repair
I’m a torsion bar virgin. This will be my first time. Thanks for your help.
It's not too bad really! Glad this will help you!
@@NaztyNate
What time will you be here?
@@jimgordon3206 LOL
Nice! I’m working on this actually right now.🙌🏻 That color is 🔥
Thank you! Hope the vids help!
You glossed over the fact you need to tighten the LCA bushing while loaded on the ground but that step is possibly one of the most critical and the fact any change of that hardware is an immediate trip to an alignment shop.
It's a fuel cooler for the return line
You also do not have to remove the torsion key, or torsion bar.
Do you have to take tension off the torsion bar or will the control arm slide right off?
Yes you do.
@@bowhunter9288 thank you
It will slider over the key end of the torsion bar?
So how did you attach the lower control arm to the up0er one ?
gave you a like and a sub for taking the time to explain in great detail (including your mistakes) the process involved. I especially like the part about NOT tightening the bolts until you set it down. I'm sure i would have made the mistake otherwise. Thanks again...Bill
Thank you! Glad this video helped ya!
@@NaztyNate It might be worth mentioning,that in my case, (2001 Chevy Silverado ,1500, 4WD) I was able to pull the A arm off the torsion bar without having to mess with the keys. I'm sure that is not always the case. They could've been loose already, who knows. It is worth mentioning that it is by FAR better to buy the A arms ready to go. I tried for several days to press in bushings and ball joints with little success (with a borrowed shop set) Huge time saver and the cost is negligible compared to the time saved. Plus the frustration and aggravation of trying to remove the old ones, only to discover that they were pitted and needed replacing anyway. AAAAAgarrrrrrrr!!!! So now I can take what i learned from the right side and apply it to the drivers side when I tackle it. Sometimes hard knocks is the best teacher. Amen! Thanks again..(nice A arms btw)
@@williamstubbs9737 nice! that makes it easy that you didn't have to mess with the keys
Where did you get lower control arms? They don't sell them on Kryptonite.
They're the factory ones
I recomend the bilstein 5160s. Front and back.
I've heard of the 5100, I'll have to look into those!
Why remove the torsion bar and all that? Seems like you wouldn't have to do anything more than unload it by loosening the bolt you painted..
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe the main bolt is missing on the left lower control arm can I just replace the bolt??
Where did you get those powder coated
Good info
Good video. Just way different than my rig. The title is confusing. Looks nothing like my 2006 Silverado 1500 LT RWD Rear Drums with Coil Springs though. It is hard to find videos for my truck and I thought I had a regular old Silverado. Apparently not.
1500s have coil springs, not torsion bars. What are you trying to replace on yours? They should come apart pretty easy once it is jacked up.
Just changed my upper & lower & fuged up not doing it right have to retake it all over again should of cn this video first cause my driver side just drop about 6 inches 😵 i kik myself in da ass but u learn from your mistakes 👍video will help me
How you ended up getting it back to stock height??
Hey man where did you get these control arms from I’m having a terrible time finding some
The lowers are stock. The uppers are kryptonite
Might as well do sway bar links while you're in there.
Ita fuel COOLER!
If I am not replacing the lower control arm.. do I need to unload the torsion bar?? I just need to do the hubs and upper arms and tie rods.
Nope, won't need to.
Superb
Thanks 🤗
You dont have to use that torsion key tool.
Just a c- clamp?
If the suspension is off ground. Clean bolt threads. Spray and wire brush, top and bottom of threads. Paint to mark threads. Impact out bolt until key is loose.
What beefy swaybar end links are those?
Kryptonite
what lower control arm is that ?the stock one ?
Yes factory lowers
Nice video but fuck all that beating lol 😂 shit scared me
Why can't I find lower control arms anywhere for an 88 2500 like they don't exist
I doubt there are any aftermarket ones, no need for them. There MIGHT be some replacement OEM ones out there. If not, need to go to a junk yard and get them yourself I guess.
Was it just me. Or was the wrong control arm on.
They were the same
That's what I thought
Did you get these powder coated at a shop? Or did you get these somewhere online?
Thanks for the great video!
I took them to my buddys shop to get everything done
Thank you!
where did you get those lower control arms?
They are factory 2500 control arms
@@NaztyNate They look great! How difficult was it to install the bushings into the control arms?
is this the same for RWD only Silverado's and sierras?
If it has torsion bars yes, some of them have coil springs
@@NaztyNate thanks for the response ill have to look closer at mine when i get the parts the video helped me understand more of what im getting myself into
Were your bolts set at different amounts for each side? I've looked at my 99 silverado 1500 and the bolts are set differently. Thinking about doing a whole front end replacement soon.
If they were I didn't really notice. The front rebuild made it drive like brand new!
What year control arms did you go with
The same ones that were on the truck. 06
How do you like that Kryptonite Center Link? I’m considering buying that kit myself. A bit pricey at $2400
I don't really know if the center link made a difference because I did it all at once but the truck drove like a dream!
@@NaztyNate Cool. I know for sure those Kryptonite outer tie rods are way more stout than factory! Did you get yours on Amazon?
@@adamkorekach9936 I got all mine on Dmax store. Great customer service over there
Im new to the suspension game. & i cannot find an answer to my question. Will this work and fit on an 03 Tahoe? Because that suspension looks orgasmic!
Those are not torsion bar suspensions. In this video I installed the "lower control arm" which is just a stock arm powder coated. In a different video I used upgraded "Kryptonite upper control arms" they do make 1500 chassis parts for Tahoes or trucks though!
@@NaztyNate how much are you torsion bars turned up for it to be leveled
@@durtysouthkustomz8862 completely stock height. Rear is lowered 3.5 inches
@@NaztyNate what tie rods do you run?
@@davidclark5746 kryptonite death grip
Im confused, is the head of the torsion bar that goes into the lower control arm only go in 1 way or do you have to feed the entire bar through the lower control arm?
You have to feed it all the way through because the cross member would be in the way if you try to go back. They're the same shape front and rear
What tie rods do you run?
Kryptonite death grip
Bro, you did way too much work. You already had the knuckles off. All you had to do was loosen the key bolt, unbolt the lowers, pull straight down and forward. Comes right off.
No, they don't come right out
Yes they do. I just did it a week ago. Just like this vid lol
m.ua-cam.com/video/3ST9DLuKI0g/v-deo.html
That's not a new trick that's nothing new that's old I have extra pieces of long steel bars laying around so I can do things like that
Perfect 🤟🤟
Lmaooo ok? Bet you still watched the video though 😂
I keep coming across this. The idea that tightening down a bolt that holds a bushing, before lowering the vehicle and putting weight on the suspension, tears the bushing…. Makes 0 logical sense to me. Think about it, while you’re driving your suspension bounces up and down which in turn rotates on that axis of the LCA bushing you were talking about. How in the world is that any different than what you’re doing when lowering the vehicle if it’s already tightened???! I could definitely be wrong but I’m trying to use simple logic here. Seems to me, there’s a blatant fallacy in this concept.
Because you want it at 0 tension’s when at ride height. Of course it moves up and down, but it doesn’t stay there. If you start out at tension and then add more tension in the same direction……too much tension.
Seems like some grease on bushings shouldn't hurt. then when it all twists freer! I do wonder about all the torsion on a shock tho. Maybe I shouldn't
You want the bushing to be at its zero rotational stress position at ride height. So torque the bolt when the vehicle is weight bearing on the tires as it sits for 90% of it's life.
It’s such a annoying stupid thing the torsion bars plus you get rougher front end ride.
Leaf springs in rear, STRUTS COIL SPRINGS AND SHOCKS in the front.
Usually on bigger trucks the smaller have the stupid torsion bars.
🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Yup all the 2500s and 3500s are torsion bars. Mine rode pretty dang good tho!
@@NaztyNate 2500s and 3500s?? I have mainly seen struts on those, you mean on the GMs?
Huh.
If truck has nice shocks hood suspension and is stock height it wouldn’t ride rough cause you’d get more bounce than when it’s raised up with torsion bars you get a more stiffer ride. My 2003 1500 ram has torsion bars it’s got 4 inch lift in front of rides a little rough plus leaf springs in the rear no struts. Just shocks both ends.
@@JacksonGuitarsPlayer03 All GM 2500/3500 from 01 to I believe 2010 use torsion bar suspension. Never had a problem with ride quality. My father who owns a Dodge likes how much better mine rides and my uncle who has a Ford feels the same. Torsion bars are stupid simple. Just can a PITA to get unstuck if it's a rust belt truck, which this truck wasn't in the video. I can tell you right now, you'd still be beating on mine with that hammer.
@@AandWProductions torsion bars are far more annoying in my opinion and struts are easier and a way better ride quality in general but what I like about torsion bars is though you can crank them up to level out your vehicle and get a decent height of maybe 3 inches
I don’t really care anyways I own and drive some older big rig trucks that ride a bit rough anyways
It’s a TRUCK I will appreciate a nicer ride but if I have to own a pickup a bit older that rides a little rough I don’t mind I own a 20 year old 1500 with the hemi is a winter/backup working truck that has torsion bars. It rides a little rougher but it’s not extreme