GM TRUCK OWNERS! LAST TIME YOU WILL EVER BUY FRONT END PARTS AGAIN!!
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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Mods done to the Truck!
EFI Live DSP5 Switch
HSP Air Intake Kit
68mm Street Turbo Ryan’s Diesel Service
60% Injectors Bitterroot Diesel
HSP Diesel YBridge
HSP Hot Side intercooler pipe
FASS Titanium 150GPH Lift Pump
FASS Fuel Sump Kit
MBRP 3inch Turbo Down pipe
PPE Race fuel valve
Ported fuel fitting
Transgo Jr Shift Kit
Kodiak Truck Transfer Case
Kodiak Truck AAM GOV Lock11.5 Rear end
PVC Reroute
PPE Stage 5 Built Transmission
Zone off-road upper control arms
PPE Stage 3 HD Tie Rods
6" Pro-comp suspension lift kit
5100 Bilstien Shocks
35/12.50/R22 DX12 Delinte
22x14 Instigators A776 Anthem Wheels
Trail Ready Front Bumper
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You need to replace those brake hoses in the front because once you stretch them they will start holding pressure in your caliper in causing the brakes to drag. 40+ years experience Watching rookie mechanics replace callipers over and over again when it was the brake hoses the whole time.😉
You are right about that
What is funny is i put raised spindles on my truck and the mechainc im learning from told me the exact same thing you just said. You experienced guys are awesome man!
rookie mechanics? doing what there told to make money buddy lol. 9 times out of 10 gm calipers are in fact trashed...
@@trevercollins6910 9 out of ten huh?🤣
Good advise, thx
My truck has had kryptonite tie rods for over 200,000 miles and now it’s finally time to do the rest
Don’t forget to reinstall the cheap washers between the brake booster and the master cylinder. Lack of doing so causes the brakes to lock up. Ask me how I know. 😎
Great tip
Pushrod length must be controlled by a selective washer?
Can't figure out what you talking about ?
Kryptonite should add production CV joints
I started running the Kryptonite front end products in 2009. One thing to understand though - this is not a straight centerlink; thank God. The straight centerlink has the tie rod enter from the end and will not roll in a boosted launch situation. However, the scrubbing and bump steer I found to be unacceptable in a daily driver. I went to the kryptonite and it is less prone to rolling than factory but WILL roll. When my truck had a stock turbo it was solid as a rock. When I added fuel and a larger turbo I rolled the centerlink, even with the huge idler - hooked that sucker good but did not snap! I drove home. I added the DHD centerlink bracket and their lower control arm bracket; super super quality stuff! Now I launch harder than ever and nothing flexes but my ego. Lmao. Good video - keep it up.
Just a couple of side notes:
If you're doing this on a gasser 2500 there are two different steering gear boxes used. One is a three spline and the other is a four spline. I haven't found ryme nor reason for which is used on what I've seen both on half and three quarter tons. The easiest way to tell one from another without tearing stuff apart is the bolt pattern where the gear box mounts to the frame, take a picture of it and take it to the parts store with you.
While everything is apart I would highly recommend changing the high pressure lines from the hydro boost to the steering gear box. Replace or modify the existing ones. There are several videos on how to replace the hose section where it's crimped to the hard line.
So from 99-06 chevy classic 1500 have 2 different stearing boxes?
@@eduardomartinez8944
Yes there are two.
Thank you these new posts It is so good to see you and your wife working on trucks together. Keep it up and I to will be supporting Wounded Warrior Project as well as Folds of Honor. MURICA!
👍🇺🇸
I did this same job on my 05' about a month ago (besides the center link). I also did the lower ball joint's and lower control arm bushings, that was the hardest part of the job! I didn't realize how bad my front end was until I replaced it all. It drives amazing now. It wasn't cheap but I'm glad I did it and I know it's going to last a long time.
It’s definitely makes a world of difference
I have a 05 thanks for advice did you purchase from Kryptonite
@@ritome011 yes I did
@@highdesertjohn .... How much did it cost you?
How much ??
HOLY crap dude. You'll be able to drive through a tank with those parts. I rebuilt my factory setup w/ TTX Mevotech ball joints & outer tie rod, poly bushings & sway bar links. I have the larger 860 steering gear box... I also used MOOG idler arm, pitman arm, and problem solver inner tie rod w/ kryptonite sleeves. Basically it's upgraded factory stuff. I'm running stock geometry suspension from z71 w/ 5100 Bilstein's. I'm off-road weekly and haven't had the SLIGHTEST issue in 30k miles. Unless you're building something heavily modified, like a pre-runner for Baja or something... I'd say factory would handle most standard off-road use. My only regret is not just buying the built up tie rods instead of sleeving factory ones. Wasn't much more $$ to buy the upgraded rods. Also I'd rather have a pressed in ball-joint as... my biggest enemy off-road is rattling. It has a tendency to rattle bolts loose. I use locking compound and grease pen to witness mark them so I can do visual inspections to make sure nothing rattled loose. Although, I must say an impressive list of upgrades no doubt.
I put the Kryptonite kit in last summer and let me tell you, game changer. Off course, I did the psc steering box, pump, stainless lines, lbl hydropump, upper and lower steering. After all that. its like a sports car and turns with your pinky
You talked me into it! Thank you! Great video, you lay on concrete just like real people do!
I just had the entire Kryptonite front and package and control arm package with Bilstine shocks installed in my LMM. Made a world of difference. I spoke to kryptonite and they told me only a 1/2 pump of high-end synthetic grease in each of the zerks. They come pre-greased and they said definitely do not feel the boots up. They told me one pump in each of the zerks for the control arms.
Thanks
The kryptonite tie rods are fantastic, however.. their ball joints and studs leave a little more to be desired. the pitman arms might be beefier and thicker and that's great, but every time a pitman arm breaks that I've seen it snaps at the stud. A chain is only as good as its weakest link. And that would be it. Just some food for thought.
Moog pitman arms definitely snap at the stud and the parts house wants $120 for house brand pitman arms. And about the same for idler. If I buy kryptonite for twice the price and it happens again, that will really make me hulk out and be ugly. Doing the work replacing them sucks.
Ive removed alot of kryptonite on the 14+ trucks. I wont install it anymore either. Cant keep anything tight, idler arm bearings failing in less than 2k miles, idler arm diameter far too large and hits frame prematurely reducing actual available steering angle. Not much experience on that 01-13 kryptonite stuff tho. Hope it holds up good for you!
Never, never blow brake dust around especially in a small shop area.
Guys will get pissed if you're blowing that crap around their bay where they're working in a shop. Get a pan and spray it down with brake cleaner. Safety is first. In the case of brake dust, health safety.
Very good point
@@TruckMaster the above post is ridiculous. The few brake jobs with dust you do in your garage wont do shit to your health.
Creeping death dust
You need a guy like me with 25 years experience tinting windows to take care of those purple windows which is the cause from using cheap window film
THANK YOU!! Its been such an impossible pursuit to find some good quality, truly AMERICAN MADE products like these
Definitely agree with you on the front end upgrade parts 👍🏼
Can someone Sponsor this guy with a lift even if it’s just a floor lift a picture up a few feet show the guy some love
👍👍
The front end is MEAN!!! Kryptonite will be the next project after injectors, that just started to fail. As the Diesel Money saga continues. 😂😂 Thanks for the informative video.
Oh boy! Them injectors will get ya every time 😂
How can ya tell when they start to fail ?
🤘😎👍 I have this job on my list and who better to show it being done than *Truck Master*
Cant stress enough how much the editing helps the usefulness of your videos. No long '3 min per bolt' videos that you cant skim back through. I will defiantly watch this a few more times to get it in my head and keep it up when doing the job.
Thanks Aaron I really appreciate it
Don't watch them "defiantly" man! lol, but yes, I was thinking the same in Thanks for not wasting time showing the BS
I just put in an idler & pitman and center link and tie rods etc on my 2009 Hummer H2, it's so awesome having a super tight brand new front end again. Great video too I really appreciate you going through everything, Kryptonite is the best, you're the best for putting out this video thank you
I’m thinking about doing the same with my 2008 H2. Hope everything holds up well for you man
I wanted to update you everything's still great the front end is awesome all the parts are operating as designed @@DannyDonnatelli
How's the kryptonite still holding? And how's the performance and quality? Thanks
I put that booster on my truck 2 years ago, best thing i did . Improved the brake feel 100%
Does anyone have a serial number for that booster. I was pricing them from the GM dealer and it's like a $800 part😮
@@rizerchris i think ebay has ac delco ones for $360.
I know you made that look WAYY easier than it was, lol good video man I’m about to rebuild the front end on my 04.5.
Thanks 😂
Thanks a lot now I have to do some work on my old lb7
Thank god. Been waiting on a video to tell me how to install the bracket on the idler arm 😂😂😂 I’m doing full dual shocks, kryptonite upper arms, lower ball joints and full death grip front end with redhead steering box! Expensive but hopefully worth it!
What was the price range and all that for you David? I’m about to do the same exact thing and just haven’t priced it yet it just happened to me yesterday my front diff went out caliper seized up bearings are shot seals are leaking they got shit everywhere it’s a freaking mess my dog even pissed on my truck what else could go wrong but hey any info on that but I’d appreciate it
How you can tell someone is from the north... the amount of anti seize used.
😂
Yea I’m in MS and I’ve never used it and never had a problem
@@Robrt32 Dose MS stand for Mark Snider !?! 👊🤠🤙 🐓
Olight flashlights are great! High quality and they last a long time on the rechargeable battery! Its very cool how they recharge.
The kryptonite hub assembly is same price as others ! Their prices are pretty average with beyond quality!!!!👍 my 2000 f150 4x4 is going to get converted to Chevy HD or a SAS
Great way to wreck bearings. Always torque them down and not gun them next time.
I never had a problem
Truck masters pls go look at dirt king cam kit it’s the final piece to a bulletproof front end
👍
I just added the dirt king cams to my LMM. It wouldn`t hold alignment, camber/caster. I really hoping it works!
got some kryptonite parts for my 15 duramax, worst mistake i’ve made in a while, ill stick to replacing the whole front end with gm parts over and over again
I wouls recommend putting Power Stop brake rotors and Pads. Drilled and slotted work well.
I put them on my 01 Tahoe and LS 460 both front rotors warped within three months. Got Replacements free from RockAuto but went ahead and bought EBC for both vehicles and not have to worry about it again
@@redvette33 buy all your parts from the GM dealer in person not on amazon that shit they sell is junk. auto parts stores also sell china junk, Use all GM factory parts when possible when it comes to hubs and brakes. there is a reason 1 wheel hub at the dealer is 800bucks vs the 300 dollar one at Oscamly's auto parts.
Drilled and slotted are noisy.
@@z71offroad2000gm parts say made in China right on the package. Just rebuilt the front of my dad's truck got all parts directly from gm cost around 1200. Got an aftermarket kit from Detroit axle for under 200 and everything looks the same as oem
I have one of those S1R BATON flash lights it's the best little flashlight I have bought
They are so bright
Just ordered all the kryptonite stuff for my 06. Glad to see it installed
Did I watch you use a hammer on all of the studs when removing the tie rods? And a pry bar to separate the ball joints? You are supposed to hit the side of the spindle to pop the joints. Regardless if you are replacing those components or not. You can mushroom the threads. But you made a good video.
Good video but no anti-sieze on bearing bolts. Apply loctite. And torque to spec. Impact guns stretch bolts making them weak. DO NOT WELD ON FRAME! It is tempered steel. Drill the holes as instructed.
I was experiencing some of the same issues as far as clanking and I pulled up to a stop and check my hubs and man they were hot well doing differential seals and bearings and going to the Diffie first then onto the Kryptonyte upper lower control arms ball joints basically the whole kit this is gonna be a long one for me since I’ve never done it before but thanks to the truck master himself in these videos I feel I can tackle this one and not really sweat it too bad except for you know throwing out the coin on all this including upgrading the brake booster to LML since I have a 2001 LB7. Wish me luck fellas my babies gonna be in the shop for a little while and I’ll just slowly tear down and build up as me and my twin boys work on this. Well that’s it for me thanks again Trackmaster for all the information you put out there bud truly appreciated I’m off to do pricing now hopefully it doesn’t hurt me too bad🇺🇸💪🏼
I run kryptonite on the front end of my 07 lbz, best investment I could of made running 33’s
The studs on the hydro boost are left hand or reverse thread pitch. And torque the wheel bearings for longer life. Rest was great
Torque by impact 😱Why are so many people too lazy to torque bolts to spec? Love buying a used vehicle and having to use an impact to loosen overtightened bolts.
That front end is BEAST! Thanks for the stellar content 😀🤘
Awesome! Thanks
Ive done a steering gear box by myself while it was raining outside on my 2008 3500. No bueno
I have never had a problem with my front end, why do they fail? Then I watch how you drive and now I know why you need this!
If your not breaking parts, your not making power, OR having fun!
I was super disappointed in the tie rods from kryptonite I got for my duramax. I had to replace the boots on both tie rods 3 times within 3 years. More trouble than they were worth. Hopefully a design change or something since I bought mine but I’ll never consider them again
I have those on my duramaxs. Complete steering components and upper control arms. All I need to do is get the wheel hubs. Because I’m going for 20x12 tis 544bm -44 off set
Thank you for your service to our country and our freedom in the 101st!!
Well I’m saving for this even though today as I was backing out of my driveway with my 20’ landscaping trailer , she died and wouldn’t restart.
So there I was stuck in the road but I primed the fuel filter but she died again . I finally got her to run so that I could driver back up and she died just as the last of the trailer cleared my driveway.
Trying diagnose it may & I have several facts to work with . I just changed the fuel filter about a month ago as she was having issues and this is the first time something like this has happened.
Man , and I just made some money selling some Jeep rim & tires along with a spare .
Fuel filter housing letting air into system
I need to replace the fuel filter housing and I ordered it but it won’t arrive until January 15 and in the process with the change of cold weather I’ve had to prime the filter cause she would start and then die after just idling .
So , while I’ve been just priming it the other day the plastic bolt on the fuel filter housing broke off .
I wanted to get an aluminum one but I needed the truck to run ASAP , so Oreillys had a box of 3 for $8 .
Still gonna change it out to aluminum bolt .
Thanks for the input .
Now , the other bad news , I have developed a slight radiator leak but she’s not leaking into the engine , nor is it dripping onto the floor .
What I’ve noticed since I bought my truck used and it’s deleted, is that they used a backer plate .
I called the guys that Truck Master used to do his Y bridge and Up pipe install and they said for me to get the radiator under a load test to make sure it’s not going into the heads . AAAAAH !
Ok , Merry Christmas to all and Truck Master & Famila .
Putting their upper control arms on my 2015 Chevy Silverado, I have a 8” lift and 22x12 and 37’s. Gonna be getting 24x14 so the uca wil help the ride better.
This kit looks awesome!! I have a half ton 2001 extended cab with 5.3 but maybe in the future ill get a duramax 3/4 ton 4 door.. I have learned a lot on your channel.. Great job
I’ve got the exact same kryptonite package on my truck. Works well, but squeaks a hella lot on every turn and bump a year later. If anyone wants to know....you can 4 launch with 0 steering wheel play.
Grease it lol
I bought my last GM front end 2 decades ago Blue Oval all the way
I went with cognito for my front lift (2019 GMC denali 3500 dually) 20" fuel triton wheels and 35" nitto tires. Had several GMC (mechanic) friends recommend cognito products. Looks similar to Kryptonite products.
I replaced my entire front end with all contigo 2 years ago, no issues.
Nice install, no doubt it’s safer. Now, it’s time to fix the girl’s interior!
Definitely in the works
great video. I have a 2011 Silverado 2500HD LML. I upgraded to Kryptonite. Upper and Lower Ball joints and centrelink and tie rods. best upgrade ever. But the problem I have been having is I had a dealership change my steering gear as I was busy with work and didnt have time. They ripped 3 of my ball joint boots and then told me I have ripped boots when I went to pick up the truck. I see Kryptonite has replacement boots. Are they easy to change. I only did my ball joints a year ago so I know i dont need new ones. The dealership ripped the 2 inner tie rod ball joints and 1 lower control arm ball joint. The dealership who did the steering gear said they had to drop the aftermarket stuff out to get the steering gear out. I call BS but either way they also put the inner tie rods on the wrong side of the centrelink. So pissed. And no they said its not there problem. But I will be doing the boot replacement myself. If you know of anyone who has replaced the boots or videos please send me the link. Thank you for your time and keep up the great videos. Very helpful.
Truck Master, Wish you were closer to the PNW so you could help me do this to my LMM. Great video. Thanks a lot!
What is the cost in parts you spent or one would spend on this. Be nice if you gave an idea so people get a ball park of what this type of upgrade will cost. I am looking into something like this but suspect its going to be couple thousand. Just an idea for future builds.
TNKS
Nice using anti seize on everything! I do the same, because you know it isn't going to be the last time taking it apart! Lol
Definitely love that stuff
Hey I broke a tire rod on my truck today doing a four-wheel-drive booster launch and I haven’t been able to get it off of the Steering Center Link any recommendations I’ve tried everything but vice grips I even broke a crescent wrench
@@outlawjr7799 only thing I would say to to is heat it up.
He got some lessons from silent mike!
Took my truck 🛻 to get this kit installed and the shop installed the tie rods backwards 😢
To respond to the title.GM is right! After my experience with my 16 silverado I'll never buy front end parts again. Why? Because I'll never by another GM. Problem solved.
I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE MODEL 4X2 MODEL with the 5.3l V8 with 127,000 miles. I have dumped in thousands and thousands of dollars in this piece of s*** And it still doesn't handle the way I want. I go over a Bumpy road. You hear these clunks in the front of the truck. And I have replaced the front sway bar links and bushings. 4 new shocks. New drive shaft. New spark plugs new wires, new battery, all new belts. All new coil packs Mass air flow sensor throttle position sensor and knock sensor. And 4 oxygen sensors. Which was highly expensive. Because I had a shop do it.I'm not mechanically inclined like you unfortunately. Even if I was, I don't think I could do it.I just don't have patience for that. I also replace the inner and outer Thai rods in the front all of them. Along with all 4 wheelbearing hub assemblies. New calipers front and back new rotors from back all new brake pads, front and back. New ABS module 50% of the brake lines replaced 50% of the fuel lines replaced. All new tires front Alignment. Definitely an increase and drivability with the truck. But it still makes these d*** clunking. Noises over bumps like what the f*** is going on here? How much
Rage I have built up in me after all this work After all this time and money, I've dumped into this truck. So my question if I decide to do this all over again But this time replace everything in the front end. Like you did I mean everything. Like one thing I didn't do was the ball joints. I didn't do those. I think that was a bad idea not to do those. But the mechanic said everything else was in AOK shape. So I decided to leave it. I think that was a bad mistake on my part. If I would have replaced the lower control alarms , the front coil springs The upper and lower ball joints and the upper control arms and the pittman arm and idler bracket Would this have made a difference??????
Forgot some fresh backing plates for your bearings. Missing those will mess with the preload on the hub bearings.
But it's still a ball in socket. The tie Rods are just thicker. When the joint wears out its no good.
I really want to do all this on my lbz as well all that stuff is so expensive though
I so wish I knew how to do this stuff
It's not very difficult to do, you just need the tools
And a place to do the work.
Just got done ordering from Amazon the same thing for my 05 gasser classic 2500hd and man I can't wait to get it put on I just wished I'd of gotten ahold of them directly because I could have gotten everything sent at once and the whole complete front end but in all I'm excited getting ready to do a frame swap in August I'm hoping to have pretty much a brand new truck 🙏🤞😁😎👍 love your videos there always helpful!
How much did it cost for everything?
About to finally install my kryptonite kit after this cup of coffee. Thank you Josh for all the content and how to videos Merry Christmas to you and the family. :)
I was today years old when I realized brake booster goes off the power steering. And I’ll admit that. 😮
What sucks is their massive increase in prices. Just selling the name now.
A lucky couple! His and hers diesels. Awesome!
Stay away from olight I bought 4 lights from them and 3 lights are broken with no to very light use. I've had streamlights for 15 years and they take a beating before they wear out from use.
Another awesome and detailed video!! Great job Josh! Air Assault!
🇺🇸🇺🇸
Have you tried the heim joint tie rods?? I’m pretty happy with those over many other failed “upgrades”. I don’t think many can compare to the kryptonite rods though. Looking forward to reviews.
You & I both forgot to buy & install lower ball joints from KRIPTONITE. I took it for granted that it would be in the kit but they were not & the website didn't even recommend that I purchase them before I checked out. End result 1 of my new front tires is slightly wearing I lill uneven. ( watch those new tires)
Kryptonite wheel bearings are great but all they are is a Timken brand wheel bearing rebranded and given a lifetime warranty by kryptonite
Love the warranty
I’ve now snapped 3 pitman arm bolts while driving over the last 6 years. I have an 08 LMM w/ a 9” Cognito lift and running 35” tires with Anthem 20x12 -44 wheels. The Cognito lift didn’t include any upgrade to the steering components. Do you think I’ll have any issues converting to the Kryptonite Ultimate Front End Package? Was also thinking about changing over to the Kryptonite Upper Control arms and their heavy duty upper and lower ball joints. Thoughts? Thanks for all the info!
I run kryptonite on my duramax swapped h2 hummer and 2011 lml love their products
Awesome ride man
Hey quick question does kryptonite make products for 2004 z71 gmc 1500?
@@marvinserrano8420 they make some 1/2 ton stuff
alpharex now make some badass headlights for the cateye just ordered a set for mine
what's the part number on the hydro brake booster?
Did this whole kit about two years ago on lmm. Red head is about 5 years old, truck has had the worst bump steer since the install. Multiple alignments, brand new bilstiens. Someone help!
That front end is badass you have me wanting to do so much to my lmm i love it thanks again for your time and the awesome videos
Thanks
Just did kryptonite front end on my lly last week. You put driver side tie rod in backwards, the notched side is supposed to face the outside.
Great video! You made that look easy...
That's a beefy front end now your lucky u got those camber bolts out on the upper a arm I spent 2 days this weekend re doing a front on 03 Tahoe had to cut out the upper bolts looks the same just bigger parts but this was my first chevy front end I've re done I'm normally a dodge guy but my friends drive chevys
Yikes
Yeah we didn't have gas the use the cutting torch so we had to sawazw it off and snap the bolts @@TruckMaster
No more torque steer or broken tie rods on them 4 wheel drive boosted launches for sure.
Roger that
Zone makes sum good control arms, made right here in Michigan too..
I had no idea zone makes parts in MI that’s cool
@@TruckMaster
Zone shows up at the blessing of the Jeeps every year up in Mesick. Promoted by Cadillac Jeepers.
Zone control arms are junk. I had some one a lml duramax and I had one snapped, after that I saw many snapped uca from zone....
To bad they don’t offer a 1500 6lug kit like the 8 lug HD’s
Converter to 8 lug?
The most important piece is the lower arm. Do they make a upgrade with the lower arm?
That's some good looking iron under there.
Don't see what that idler arm support actually does besides hold the bracket that's already holding the arm. I might go without it
U would think if u spent $500 on a pair of the wheel bearings they’d give new bolts for them not to have to reuse them old rusty ones
That exhaust whiffling is destroying your turbo, you need a waste gate.
Should not use an impact wrench on bearings and gearbox shafts. I pounds the balls into the raceways
Takes money solid axle swap makes it more reliable
Next wifemax upgrade PPE INTERCOOLER UPGRADE
I like your thinking
The price point is ridiculous, a new oem set will cost $378, kryptonite set = over $1400... more than a thousand dollars difference??? C'mon
Got my upper control arms, lower balljoints, new gearbox and deathgrip front end just have to install it lol
When will gm get rid of torsion bar and go to coil spring?
Toyota switched in 96!!!! Come on gm.
A parts list of everything you did in the video? Have you done an upgrade to the CAT oil or fuel filters?