Man those pictures at the end look so good, I really appreciate that you manage to share this with us despite all of the much more important things that need doing.
Andy when watching the video you can see how the work is speeded up with good machines, but the true carpenter shows in the decisions that are made to carry out a job, in this case you preferred to make the recesses of the windows in the circular saw instead of Using a bit in the router, aside from the inconvenience of sawdust, allows you to obtain thin wood that can be reused as beading to install the glass, it was a good decision. Greetings
Wow very nices windows. It reminds me working in the joinery yard making the old fashioned sash windows. Your workshop and machinery amazing keep up with the hard work 💪
All of this stuff is solid oak it is really heavy, I've been making windows and doors like this for over 20 years long before UA-cam but never had the machines to do it in the time scale I'm doing it now. Still a lot of time and effort is put into making all of these things as you see over the weeks and months but a lot less now I'm using CNC machines
I have a fat 300 I also have a fat 500 I’m just about buy the 300S . They’re all really different the original small 300 is the best one for moving stuff around in the shop say in and out of the Wide Belt Sander because it’s light and simple to move. The 500 is amazing when working on big tables or doors and you need to lift heavyweights with the access to the pump on the side but it’s a big table not ideal for running around Wide Belt Sander from the in and out feed more of a kind of workstation
@@ManorWood thanks for the reply. I would be using it as assembly table using the Ruwi extension rails you showed in your previous video. The largest carcass I would make would be 2.255m high (a wardrobe) and I’m thinking the extra length on S model would reduce the overhang or in your experience, are the profiles beefy enough to support a carcass. The carcass is made from 19mm finsa mfc. Full dimensions are 2255x600x600mm. I don’t make these very often. Usually standard kitchen cabinets.
This is really solid oak and where I’m hitting it hard is on the top and the bottom which you won’t see the, The mallet itself leaves no marks as in rubber marks and there is very little if any indentation on the wood. If it was a face you would see then I would probably just for safety use a sacrificial piece of wood whilst hitting. I’ve done these joints supertight just so that I can remove the clamps quickly and install these are for my own workshop maybe on a clients piece the joints would be slightly looser I need a little bit less of a hit
Very impressive! Out of interest, what would be the life expectancy for those windows? It looked so effortless with those machines, but could last well over century. Love it
I love medieval and historic buildings in fact I live in one from 17c. I’ve seen oak Malins 500/600 years old still going strong look in a bit TATI but working fine.
your dust control in the shop is lacking. The Oneida system cyclone we use is connected to all our machines and there is the option of using an 80 mil connect for the FD 250. That dust can get all over and slow down your work and it does go into your lungs.
Most of my wood is locally sourced from Field and Farm, but when it comes to large runs I need to buy from Yard. Unfortunately Yard I use does not want to be known on the Internet there a small local yard busy as can be I've been working on for five or six years now
There is a company in Dudley I work with all so much bigger called Latham's , they're quite a big supplier of chic goods but they also have oak similar to this
Ça c’est de la fenêtre. 👍. J’aurais une question: pourquoi tu n’as pas investi dans une cadreuse dans ton nouvel atelier ? Le collage serait quand même plus facile à réaliser, équerrage parfait …. Que l’utilisation de serre joint. Et pour faciliter les finitions, au lieu de perdre beaucoup de temps à enlever la colle dans les coins un bout de ruban adhésif avant collage aurait simplifier le travail non? Sinon c’est toujours agréable de suivre tes réalisations. Merci pour le partage. 👏👏👏
Hi there thanks for your feedback, it's a little bit difficult with translating but simply typing around multiple joints is not as easy as sanding off after a 10 to 20 minutes to set up very complicated typing this many joints on this many windows with rebates. Thanks for your feedback I appreciate it
Lovely job mate as allows
Ur boy looked very happy doing the mortise lol
Nice Job Andy, that cutter block from whitehills is something else
They’re amazing I’ve got a video coming very soon all around he’s cutting blocks and the spindle moulder set up
@@ManorWood im looking forward to it
Man those pictures at the end look so good, I really appreciate that you manage to share this with us despite all of the much more important things that need doing.
Thank you
Excellent work and video!!
Beautiful!!!
Andy when watching the video you can see how the work is speeded up with good machines, but the true carpenter shows in the decisions that are made to carry out a job, in this case you preferred to make the recesses of the windows in the circular saw instead of Using a bit in the router, aside from the inconvenience of sawdust, allows you to obtain thin wood that can be reused as beading to install the glass, it was a good decision. Greetings
Wow very nices windows. It reminds me working in the joinery yard making the old fashioned sash windows. Your workshop and machinery amazing keep up with the hard work 💪
thanks man
Nice windows, but even better tools. Nice to see the accuracy these higher end tools can handle and make your life a little easier.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Superb job great use of your new Altendorf. I bet those window frames weigh a ton. Like you say, "Accuracy is key to speed when assembling". Tony
All of this stuff is solid oak it is really heavy, I've been making windows and doors like this for over 20 years long before UA-cam but never had the machines to do it in the time scale I'm doing it now. Still a lot of time and effort is put into making all of these things as you see over the weeks and months but a lot less now I'm using CNC machines
@@ManorWood Appreciate your reply Andy, looking forward to watching how you glaze them. Tony
cracking job love your work. will you be doing a revew on the new belt sander and extractor ?
Cheers man, yes I still haven’t finished installing the extraction for the new Wide Belt and I will be doing a video on it very soon
If you were to buy the felder table again would you stick with the Fat 300 or go with the 300s or even the 500s?
I have a fat 300 I also have a fat 500 I’m just about buy the 300S . They’re all really different the original small 300 is the best one for moving stuff around in the shop say in and out of the Wide Belt Sander because it’s light and simple to move. The 500 is amazing when working on big tables or doors and you need to lift heavyweights with the access to the pump on the side but it’s a big table not ideal for running around Wide Belt Sander from the in and out feed more of a kind of workstation
@@ManorWood thanks for the reply. I would be using it as assembly table using the Ruwi extension rails you showed in your previous video. The largest carcass I would make would be 2.255m high (a wardrobe) and I’m thinking the extra length on S model would reduce the overhang or in your experience, are the profiles beefy enough to support a carcass. The carcass is made from 19mm finsa mfc. Full dimensions are 2255x600x600mm. I don’t make these very often. Usually standard kitchen cabinets.
Looking good. Quick question....you really give the wood a thwack with the mallet during glue up. Do you never get any marks or dents in the wood?
This is really solid oak and where I’m hitting it hard is on the top and the bottom which you won’t see the, The mallet itself leaves no marks as in rubber marks and there is very little if any indentation on the wood. If it was a face you would see then I would probably just for safety use a sacrificial piece of wood whilst hitting. I’ve done these joints supertight just so that I can remove the clamps quickly and install these are for my own workshop maybe on a clients piece the joints would be slightly looser I need a little bit less of a hit
@@ManorWood Cheers for the reply Andy. Glad the place is coming together after the horror of the fire. Keep up the good work.
Very impressive! Out of interest, what would be the life expectancy for those windows? It looked so effortless with those machines, but could last well over century. Love it
I love medieval and historic buildings in fact I live in one from 17c. I’ve seen oak Malins 500/600 years old still going strong look in a bit TATI but working fine.
@@ManorWood very true. Amazing to think your craftsmanship could potentially be knocking about in 500 years!
Wow, very very wfficient
your dust control in the shop is lacking. The Oneida system cyclone we use is connected to all our machines and there is the option of using an 80 mil connect for the FD 250. That dust can
get all over and slow down your work and it does go into your lungs.
I have a new Felder Extractor FD200 , just need to install thew 200mm Duct .. so much to do so little time in the day :)
@@ManorWood Glad to hear you have a solution on the dust in the shop. I breathed that stuff for three years and finally said enough.
Beautiful windows, where do you purchase the Oak? If you don't mind me asking 😊
Most of my wood is locally sourced from Field and Farm, but when it comes to large runs I need to buy from Yard. Unfortunately Yard I use does not want to be known on the Internet there a small local yard busy as can be I've been working on for five or six years now
There is a company in Dudley I work with all so much bigger called Latham's , they're quite a big supplier of chic goods but they also have oak similar to this
@Manor Wood Thank you, and I appreciate your discretion
Ça c’est de la fenêtre. 👍. J’aurais une question: pourquoi tu n’as pas investi dans une cadreuse dans ton nouvel atelier ? Le collage serait quand même plus facile à réaliser, équerrage parfait …. Que l’utilisation de serre joint. Et pour faciliter les finitions, au lieu de perdre beaucoup de temps à enlever la colle dans les coins un bout de ruban adhésif avant collage aurait simplifier le travail non? Sinon c’est toujours agréable de suivre tes réalisations. Merci pour le partage. 👏👏👏
Hi there thanks for your feedback, it's a little bit difficult with translating but simply typing around multiple joints is not as easy as sanding off after a 10 to 20 minutes to set up very complicated typing this many joints on this many windows with rebates. Thanks for your feedback I appreciate it
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