Hey, Bosstik makes a lubricant spray called GlideCote and spray it on the cast iron tables (just enough to cover-not too much) and wait a minute before wiping-buffing with a dry clean cloth or paper towel. Then, note how easy it is to push that oak past a blade. The spray does not stay on the wood or discolor you wood. Rather expensive stuff but reduces friction.
Loved this video. Have you thought about doing a video on your fire situation? How it started, extent of damage, and how your business survived this ordeal. That would be interesting to your viewers for sure.
When I got the FD250 along with it we got a 10MM Carbide edge birds mouth bit. That style bit is barely OK for shallow work. Go ahead and get a two wing solid carbide end mill and speed things up radically and get a better surface. The plunge is like diving into a larger swimming pool-smooth and free. Just completed an island kitchen walnut-maple butcher block top 3' X 6' X 2-1/4" with one corner being a 9" radius round corner with band saw rough to a pencil line and then on to the Format 4 shaper with guide rings along a template screwed to the under side. Felder sells (did sell) a 14 knife helical cut 4" height tooling that did such a nice job you don't need to sand it. With ring you want to do a lift off slope on both ends and then blend the radius with 320 grit orbital. I can buy the end mill for less than the birds eye variety. 1500 rpm on the FD 250
@@ManorWood Those are old design bits for wood that Felder still sells. mine is from 8-9 years ago and is part number Felder 06.2.010 as carbide edge bird's eye design. Get an end mill 2 wing carbide and use if forever.
Fantastic work there, Andy! 👍🏽 Door looks awesome and definitely built to last.👌🏽 Getting those bits for your spindle moulder will absolutely help your work flow. Cheers mate, take care.
The monster loose tenons and your mortising machine looks great, and the door does too. I was surprised that you were not using a slow setting epoxy adhesive in the door assembly. If the wood glue starts setting during assembly, it can make assembly difficult and can result in possible weak joints. Water in the wood glue also causes loose tenons to swell, making assembly difficult, too. The slow setting epoxy gives you more assembly time, and it does not swell the loose tenons but acts as a lubricant making assembly easier.
2 questions.... Why you stoped using Df700 for this kind of job, and did you do a video on aluminium extrusion profile router table and miter saw stand?
Hi Dave. Check www.woodworksupply.co.uk and then the Wood Repair product range. Andy is using the Wood Repair Pro kit here that comes with the iron and the chisel.
Great job. It's therapeutic to see the transformation of rough planks into a refined and solid looking door. Unfortunately we can't get the F250 here in Canada. I am curious how you calculated the sizing of your T&G panelling to fit precisely width-wise inside the door frame.
Beautiful doors. When the material is flat sawn how much space do you allow for expansion with seasonal movement? I'm in Louisiana, where the humidity is high. I'm wanting to build a set of doors out of white oak flat sawn.
If the tongue and groove boards were sat into a rebate the glue up would have been easier. Its also easier hanging the door because you can hang the door without all of that extra weight. You could cut the tenons on a normal block. Just obviously you'd need some sort of carriage to keep the timber square and safe. Through tenons wedged would mean after the wedges are seated you can take the clamps off and carry on working rather than having to wait for the glue to cure.
I guess no one taught you that when you flatten a board on the jointer you grab the board on the outfeed table. What you're doing is typical for someone who's self taught.
Down votes on informative, well-produced videos like this should require a full paragraph explanation with citations and a registered phone number or street address.
All the tools and no skills. It's kind of funny watching somebody demonstrate woodworking machinery and it's crystal clear they have no experience using the equipment.
@@ManorWood 41 years building custom windows and doors. I own my own shop and at 60 + hours a week one can tend to form an opinion. Only watched this video while researching a new Filder wood Shaper.
FYI I purchased the Class SCM TF 130 PS to replace my SCMI T130 P side mount which has been a work horse for 20 years. They are bulletproof machines they pay for themselves many times over in their lifetime. The Filder in person was not impressive, a little gimmicky for me. I am thinking of writing a book on joinery and it's based solely on your videos. The book is called Why Joinery apprenticeships are important.
As a finish carpenter moving more towards this high end work here in the States it’s a pleasure Sir to watch you make it happen ! Thk U ! God Bless !
That is a great looking door. Missed your videos the last few weeks. I always look forward to watching them on the weekend. Thank you!
More than one way to do any job great to see different options thanks Andy hope your doing well cheers
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Great video and thanks for the tour of your amazing shop!
Pleasure to watch. Beautiful work
Hey, Bosstik makes a lubricant spray called GlideCote and spray it on the cast iron tables (just enough to cover-not too much) and wait a minute before wiping-buffing with a dry clean cloth or paper towel. Then, note how easy it is to push that oak past a blade. The spray does not stay on the wood or discolor you wood. Rather expensive stuff but reduces friction.
Good work. I like your collection of machines. awesome
your machinery is amaizing for a small shop
Awesome workshop 👍🏻
Love your set up
Nice job Andy, great to see you man🇮🇪👏🏼👏🏼👍👍
Loved this video. Have you thought about doing a video on your fire situation? How it started, extent of damage, and how your business survived this ordeal. That would be interesting to your viewers for sure.
Good idea ,
@@ManorWood don't see the hinge jig listed in your description, you have a link?
A good looking door, and well filmed.😀🇬🇧
Clean sharp and tight - nice job.
very nice job mate, and i think yout tools are amazing! thay make me envious :😇
stunning work looks amazing
Beautiful job like your shares.😯👍
When I got the FD250 along with it we got a 10MM Carbide edge birds mouth bit. That style bit is barely OK for shallow work. Go ahead and get a two wing solid carbide end mill and speed things up radically and get a better surface. The plunge is like diving into a larger swimming pool-smooth and free. Just completed an island kitchen walnut-maple butcher block top 3' X 6' X 2-1/4" with
one corner being a 9" radius round corner with band saw rough to a pencil line and then on to the Format 4 shaper with guide rings along a template screwed to the under side. Felder sells (did sell) a 14 knife helical cut 4" height tooling that did such a nice job you don't need to sand it. With ring you want to do a lift off slope on both ends and then blend the radius with 320 grit orbital.
I can buy the end mill for less than the birds eye variety. 1500 rpm on the FD 250
what is a 10MM Carbide edge bird ?? please send a link
@@ManorWood Those are old design bits for wood that Felder still sells. mine is from 8-9 years ago and is part number Felder 06.2.010 as carbide edge bird's eye design. Get an end mill 2 wing carbide and use if forever.
Great video.
Lovely work. New subscriber. Would love to see the finished product displayed at the end.
Fantastic work there, Andy! 👍🏽
Door looks awesome and definitely built to last.👌🏽
Getting those bits for your spindle moulder will absolutely help your work flow.
Cheers mate, take care.
Great video fella, I like the loose tendon you can't have everything in a medium size shop. It's been a while since I chopped a rebate lock in . 👍
Great work
The monster loose tenons and your mortising machine looks great, and the door does too.
I was surprised that you were not using a slow setting epoxy adhesive in the door assembly. If the wood glue starts setting during assembly, it can make assembly difficult and can result in possible weak joints. Water in the wood glue also causes loose tenons to swell, making assembly difficult, too. The slow setting epoxy gives you more assembly time, and it does not swell the loose tenons but acts as a lubricant making assembly easier.
Also remember when your using a rebate cutter like that in the router to ‘reverse first’ to avoid chipping out the bottom edge
Sorry I don't know what you mean by that, can you explain?
Cracking Job, would've liked to have seen the finished products swinging though!
Piekna robota.jakie wiertla używa pan do wiercenia ?.pozdrawiam serdecznie.
Do you use the digital readout when in thicknesser mode?
Great looking door. What a shame the video ends before we see the finished article.
Could you make a video of a door out of wood material from Homedepot or Lowes?
So when you put the interior panels in, is it just an interference fit? What is holding them in? Just a "press fit"?
No domino = like
2 questions.... Why you stoped using Df700 for this kind of job, and did you do a video on aluminium extrusion profile router table and miter saw stand?
Will you show the finishing method/material with the next doors?
Bit more on the hot melt gun 'running repair' please? What was the 'iron' you used - and that odd looking chisel?
Hi Dave. Check www.woodworksupply.co.uk and then the Wood Repair product range. Andy is using the Wood Repair Pro kit here that comes with the iron and the chisel.
Great job.
It's therapeutic to see the transformation of rough planks into a refined and solid looking door.
Unfortunately we can't get the F250 here in Canada.
I am curious how you calculated the sizing of your T&G panelling to fit precisely width-wise inside the door frame.
Beautiful doors. When the material is flat sawn how much space do you allow for expansion with seasonal movement? I'm in Louisiana, where the humidity is high. I'm wanting to build a set of doors out of white oak flat sawn.
Hello 9724,
Your hinges jig router look durable. Sorry can you let me know a website to buy. Is the hinges jig router the same as yours?
Thank you.
Seems ages since u had some videos out will there be some out soon?
Stupid question coming. What do you do with all the saw dust and chippings?
Nice job!
Can you tell me what reference of hinge you are using please. I search fort this sort of for making my doors 😉
Are you still going to be posting Andy? Hope everything is ok as it has been a while.
Hey guys do you know what kind of Scissor lift or who makes it?
Can’t seem to find one that doesn’t have a handle on it
Классно
Nice, do you finish the edges on your t&g panel's before you fit them ?.
If the tongue and groove boards were sat into a rebate the glue up would have been easier. Its also easier hanging the door because you can hang the door without all of that extra weight. You could cut the tenons on a normal block. Just obviously you'd need some sort of carriage to keep the timber square and safe. Through tenons wedged would mean after the wedges are seated you can take the clamps off and carry on working rather than having to wait for the glue to cure.
What on earth happened to your Etsy shop?
nothing to comment, just for algorythm.
👊👍👌
2:13 WTF ?!
Tenons a bit snug there fella? 😉
I guess no one taught you that when you flatten a board on the jointer you grab the board on the outfeed table. What you're doing is typical for someone who's self taught.
Down votes on informative, well-produced videos like this should require a full paragraph explanation with citations and a registered phone number or street address.
Das ist aber keine Profi arbeit
Wieso?
Good work but poor safety on machines. Looks very fumbly and cack handed
All the tools and no skills. It's kind of funny watching somebody demonstrate woodworking machinery and it's crystal clear they have no experience using the equipment.
Let use all see you in the shop , so we can see how we should do it , feel free to link you channel here :)
@@ManorWood 41 years building custom windows and doors. I own my own shop and at 60 + hours a week one can tend to form an opinion. Only watched this video while researching a new Filder wood Shaper.
FYI I purchased the Class SCM TF 130 PS to replace my SCMI T130 P side mount which has been a work horse for 20 years. They are bulletproof machines they pay for themselves many times over in their lifetime. The Filder in person was not impressive, a little gimmicky for me. I am thinking of writing a book on joinery and it's based solely on your videos. The book is called Why Joinery apprenticeships are important.