How to Flush and Bleed brakes for S197 Mustangs (2005-2014)
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- We are going over the steps to flush and bleed brakes for a 2012 Mustang GT.
Jack Stand Points Picture -
mustangforums.com/how-tos/a/f...
1. Tools - 0:07
2. Step 1 (Remove Old Brake Fluid) - 0:43
3. Step 2 (Refill Brake Fluid Reservoir) - 1:37
4. Step 3 (Loosen Lug Nuts) - 2:09
5. Step 4 (Lift Vehicle) - 2:28
6. Step 5 (Remove Wheel) - 2:46
7. Step 6 (Remove Bleeder Valve Cap) - 2:39
8. Step 7 (Install Bleeder Bottle) - 3:09
9. Step 8 (Loosen Bleeder Valve) - 3:29
10. Step 9 (Pump Brake Pedal) - 3:44
11. Step 10 (Tighten Bleeder Valve) - 4:39
12. Step 11 (Remove Bleeder Bottle) - 4:50
13. Step 12 (Install Bleeder Valve Cap) - 4:56
14. Step 13 (Install Wheel & Lug Nuts) - 5:07
15. Step 14 (Lower Vehicle) - 5:31
16. Step 15 (Torque Lug Nuts) - 5:37
17. Step 16 (Bleed Rear Driver Caliper) - 5:48
18. Step 17 (Bleed Front Passenger Caliper) - 6:17
19. Step 18 (Bleed Front Driver Caliper) - 6:45
20. Step 19 (Verify/Top Off Brake Fluid) - 7:13
21. Compare - 7:23
Products Used:
Brake Fluid - www.amsoil.com/p/dot-3-and-do...
Bleeder Bottle:
How-to Video - • How to Make a One Pers...
Fuel Tubing 1/4" X 3/8" - shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...
Tools:
Bleeder Bottle/Hose
Turkey Baster
Torque Wrench (20-150 ft-lb)
1/2" Socket Wrench (Optional)
1/2" Breaker Bar
21mm Socket
11mm Wrench
Shop Towels
Jack Stands
Jack
Disclaimer: Content produced from Mcgurr Entertainment is for entertainment purposes only. This information is not endorsed by any agency/company (such as Ford) and is intended as an entertainment. Mcgurr Entertainment assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. All content on UA-cam is provided in good faith, however we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of any information on UA-cam. Use this information at your own risk.
#BrakeFlush #S197 - Авто та транспорт
Just wanted to thank you for this comprehensive tutorial. Your channel is severely underrated.
Thank you very very much. It really does mean a lot!!!
Thank you for this video. It was very easy to follow. Brakes work so much better now.
That's awesome!!! I'm glad it helped.
Thanks for this video. Changed the fluid using Amsoil brake fluid on my ‘05 mustang gt 🇺🇸🇺🇸
That's awesome!!!! I'm glad it helped.
Thanks man. This video help me a lot.
Anytime!!! I'm glad the video helped 😀
Thank you for the simple video ! 🎉
Thank you for the support
Great video man best one out.
Thank you very much. Really appreciate it!!!
Thanks for the video! Doing this now
You are welcome 😊. Thank you and stay safe
I have a 2014 Mustang V6. My owners manual says use Dot 4 LV but the cap says Dot 3. Any advice? Excellent video thank you for the help.
Thank you for the positive feedback. I would follow the manual. DOT4 Low Viscosity is a little pricey(er), but it's doable.
Thanks for the well-explained video. I have a manual mustang where the clutch master cylinder shares the same reservoir with brake fluid. When doing my brake bleed, will there be air introduced into the clutch cylinder? Do I have to bleed the clutch system as well? Thanks!
Good question. Just keep the reservoir full, and you will be fine. No, you don't have to bleed the clutch as well.
Will this also bleed any air in the clutch system and flush the fluid in the clutch lines?
Is this something i need to do ? had the car since 70k miles she’s at 93k now and good video👍🏾
Thank you very much. The service manuals recommend changing the brake fluid every 2 years. Look in your brake fluid reservoir and check the color. If it's dark, change it
Hey man, so my master cylinder is like blocked off at the top of the reservoir with the plastic X shape that is in your reservoir too, except mine is at the top? I’m not sure what this means any ideas or suggestions?
Good evening, I tried researching this type of reservoir and cannot seem to find anything on this setup. Could you send me a picture via Instagram and maybe we can try to figure it?
its a screen to bock anything getting down into resivoir some you can remove with a pick others you can't remove but after you flush it will be clean anyways after your done spray some brake cleaner around the resivoir with the cap on to make it clean on the outside.
After replacing all my brakes 2 months ago I still have squeaks. I noticed my brake fluid is very foggy, is it necessary to flush/bleed the brakes, or does that just speed up the clean fluid brake process? Thanks
Well, you might have two issues. Foggy/cloudy brake fluid is most likely caused by water contamination; this would require flushing. The brake squeaking can have different causes. Possible causes are grease/oil on your rotors (or pads), brake pads not bedding the rotors correctly, defective pads, warped rotors, etc. Hope this helps.
@@mcgurrentertainment Definitely does, thank you!
My mustang was making squeak noises very badly and it ended up being the pistons. I did replace by pads and clean everything probably to well so the piston got very dry under the seals. I bought some high temp grease from permatek and put some lubricant around and all the squeaks disappeared!!! You have to remove the pads for that and the caliper, push the brakes so the piston gets out and then add the grease under the seals.
And calipers paint will looks great and no rust around you
So i replaced me rear pads and rotors. My brakes were soft all of a sudden like air in the lines. I bled the brakes but it feels the same. I pump breaks and they feel fine. But other wise it goes to the floor but still stops decent
Could be air still stuck in the system or your master cylinder having issues. May need to start troubleshooting.
are the lines thats connected to the master cylinder easy to replace? the nut on mine is rounded out, is the nut replaceable
That's a good question. I haven't attempted changing those lines on this model Mustang. I'll see what information I can find. [Update] I'm guessing those fittings were on there really good. It's only suppose to be 26 ft-lb ot torque. Depending on your setup, you may need to change out those lines; it all depends how it's damaged.
@@mcgurrentertainment thanks
With the baster I can’t get all the way down the reservoir so how do we completely empty that to stop the mixing of old (contaminated) and new before starting the flush?
Another option would be to use a Hand Held Vacuum/Pressure Pump Kit - amzn.to/3KIoNFa
By doing this method, does it also bleed the ABS blocs ? If not how to bleed these ABS blocs in order to perform a full bleeding? Thank you!
Great question. Short answer, Yes. The flushing process includes the ABS HCU. If you were installing a new HCU, the service manual requires an extra step of connecting a scan/service tool.
@@mcgurrentertainment Thanks for the fast answer! Love your videos! Wished you'd do more for the s197 😉
No problem at all. I'll see what I can do about more S197 videos 🙂
Can I use a larger size plastic bottle?
Yes
Same amount of braking fluid for Brembo's?
It's going to be a similar amount. A majority of the brake fluid is held in the reservoir and brake lines. The Brembo Brakes hold slightly more fluid (over factory), but not a substantial amount.
Great video! What size hose did you use for your bleeders?
2-Feet Length 1/4-Inch Inner Diameter by 3/8-Inch Outer Diameter.
@@mcgurrentertainment Perfect, thank you!
Where can I get that hose?
Link in description.
So no worries about to get air into brake system ? with the same way you did
Correct
I thought you needed two people to do this, and you needed to retighten the bleeder valve in between each pedal pump? If I can do it this way, it will make it so much easier because I can do it by myself!
Is the way you showed it in this video, a correct way to do this? Thanks!
By correct you mean per the service manual, then no. They required different equipment for bleeding brakes. The idea is to ensure all air bubbles are removed and prevent additional air to be added to the system. By positioning the hose and bottle correctly (while the hose is submerged in fluid), you're not introducing air into the system as you pump the brake pedal.
@@mcgurrentertainment thanks for the reply! This is really going to save me time. Very innovative procedure you have demonstrated here 👍
What size hose are you using? Quick tip: you should clean around the reservoir top and the cap prior to removing the cap to ensure that you don’t introduce any dirt particles into the reservoir.
Fuel Tubing 1/4" X 3/8" - shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/prime-line-fuel-tubing-1-4-x-3-7-081522/11049555-P
@@mcgurrentertainment thanks!
@@mcgurrentertainmentI never noticed you had it in the description. I forgot to check that prior to commenting!
It's all good
Does the vehicle have to be operating in order to bleed system ? Having a problem where I bled my brakes and and felt pefect before I started it , when I started it the peddle was soft very easy to press any idea ?
No, the vehicle can be off when bleeding brakes. Typically, the brake pedal being easy to press when the vehicle is running is normal. This is due to the engine pulling a vacuum for the power brakes. However, it can also be "too" easy to press the brake pedal, which could indicate something could be wrong. Are you having problems braking?
@@mcgurrentertainment yes , when I bled all around I did 3 times all around to make sure than when I started it I had no brakes at all only my e brake
It's not braking at all? Even when you reverse and foward once or twice?
@@mcgurrentertainment my driveway is down hill so I was just pushing it in park when it started and it was like I have no brakes so I didn’t want to throw it in drive and not be able to stop
Try pumping your brakes for few times while in park. If you continue to have no brakes at all, then you have air in your lines or your out of brake fluid. Were you having any braking issues before bleeding the brakes?
My friend left my bleeder screw loose and it popped off. Needless to say, after I pumped all the fluid out of brake system, it hasn't been the same since. No matter what I do or how many times I bleed them correctly, my brakes are still spongy. I get that hiss when I brake however, they aren't loosing fluid or worsening in the "sludgy" feeling. Would you advice me to bleed the master cylinder and just start from scratch like you demonstrated in this video? Thanks for any help or advise you can give.
Send me a DM on Instagram. I'll send you the procedure for priming the brake master cylinder.
@@mcgurrentertainment you should make a video on it so everyone can see
Hmmmm...I'll have to look into that.
@@mcgurrentertainment I'd be curious to read that procedure, my brakes haven't been quite the same ever since I replaced all of the rotors and pads. Mind if I send you a DM?
Sure. @mcgurrentertainment
you dont have to use a turkey baster just remove driverside rear tire and have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times and hold the pedal down then open bleeder screw then close after fluid come out and repet 25 times and fill resivoir when you get to 12 times the fluid will be clear in the resivoir and in the lines. I tried all four wheels but when I got to the passangerside rear wheel the fluid came out clear and same with the front !
Very Nice
They partially did it to prevent back flow of air into the lines at the bottom of the bottle when using the 1 person method of bleeding lines without proper equipment
Does the car have to be turned on to flush brakes?
Good question. No
Ia the same for a manual mustang?? You know is about the throw out bearing ...¿¿¿¿ ????
Yes, same for the manual transmission.
Soooo...are you supposed to use a whole bottle of fluid for each brake? I ask because you topped it off?
This system was severely contaminated, and it needed the 3 bottles of brake fluid to flush it clean.
Your brake fluid may not be as bad.
What size hose did you use for the fluid container?
Fuel Tubing 1/4" X 3/8"
Link is in the description.
@@mcgurrentertainment thank you
I am completing flushing the brakes on my 2007 mustang and started with the right rear wheel... How much of a Gatorade bottle worth of fluid should I push out before I should expect the fluid to start being clear? I got out around 3/4 of a bottle and it's still not clear like the new fluid.
Good question. I know the first flush (right-rear) used about 3/4 of the bottle. So you should be pretty close.
@@mcgurrentertainment what size bottle were you using?
I think it was a 20oz bottle.
@@mcgurrentertainment was wondering if you might be able to help....when pushing the pedal down, it is pretty stiff..and it returns back to the original position really slow. I am getting fluid out but very slowly....there are no air bubbles, just yellowish fluid...any idea what would cause a stiff pedal...it is a stiffer push when driving the car
That's odd. The vacuum assist is not making the pedal smoother; that's weird. how's the braking?
Same process for a manual? sorry for the dumb question
That is not a dumb question. Brake and clutch (if equipped) systems are supplied from the same reservoir, but not the same cylinders. The same process will still apply when flushing the brakes.
@@mcgurrentertainment awesome thank you, I've bled brakes before just not on a manual
No problem. Thank you for the support
Do you really need to take off your wheels or can I leave them on ik it’s gonna be a lil uncomfortable.
That's a good question. I was able to flush the brakes on my truck without removing the wheels. I haven't tried that method on the Mustang; I'm not sure if there is enough room or not. I will keep this in mind on the next flush.
@@mcgurrentertainment btw I have the track pack so of course I got brembos so do I do the inner side first or the outside first did here that you do the outside first but what do you think?
If you have Brembo Brakes, you'll like this video: ua-cam.com/video/HrAkTxZa8Xw/v-deo.html
If you don't mind, did you end up doing it with the wheels on? About to do the same thing in a few days, would make it easier for me unless it's crazy tight
What size tubing did you use ?
Per Description: Fuel Tubing 1/4" X 3/8" - shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/prime-line-fuel-tubing-1-4-x-3-7-081522/11049555-P
2-Feet Length 1/4-Inch Inner Diameter by 3/8-Inch Outer Diameter.
@@mcgurrentertainment thank you, I did not see it. Appreciate the video
Thank you very much for the support
Hi! How much bottles/quantity have you used during the bleeding process ? I will perform a full bleeding following your video but I need to know how many liters I need
Thanks again for your video
(3) 12 fl. oz of brake fluid.
@@mcgurrentertainment many thanks!
do we need to empty a full bottle of amsoil for each tire?
Not necessarily. It all depends on how dirty the system is; this system was very bad.
@@mcgurrentertainmenthow much brake fluid did you use in total? My fluid looks similar as I have never flushed it before and I’m trying to get an idea about how much to buy.
If i recall, (3) 12oz bottles
does this end up flushing the clutch too??
No sir, just the brakes. The clutch and brakes share the same reservoir but not the same cylinders. Good question.
@@mcgurrentertainment how do you change out the clutch fluid?
@@Twobarpsi need this info too
@@graledibble1619 I think the only way to get 80% of it out, is to disconnect the clutch line at the slave cylinder, and let the fluid drain from the line and slave. There is no room to get at the clip that holds it onto the slave, and it can be really hard to get it back on.
@@Twobarpsi yea thinking of just buying the Shelby remote reservoir
so you did this by yourself? i thought you had to pump the brakes 3x and hold even with this bottle and hose method? i got to bleed all 4
Yes, this was done by myself.
@@mcgurrentertainment and you got all the air out of the system?
Yes
@@mcgurrentertainment how long it take I can't seem to get completely bubble free
Not long. Check your hose connection. If it's loose, then it could allow air to enter the system
Not sure why you waste time getting old fluid out with the turkey baster. I just get a straw and drink it
🤦♂️