Common Mistakes Bleeding Brakes! How to Do a Full Brake Bleed the Right Way, and Why!
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2021
- For More Info visit us at: 1aau.to/h/cFx/
Thought you should try bleeding your brakes, because the pedal is feeling squishy, or because you had to replace brake parts, or the fluid is old? This video will show you all the things you should do, as well as many things you shouldnt! Sue guides you through bleeding brakes the right way, and why you might need to do it, with the correct order in mind!
Check out these other awesome common mistakes videos!
• Common Mistakes
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/cFx/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - Авто та транспорт
I always watch when Sue gives these training videos. She is one of the best teachers on the net.
Most definitely, love her
I like her accent
Like the Alaskan lady named Sue that runs the airport gas station.
She can do anything a man can and good for her. Actually, she a better mechanic than most men I know.
amen to that
Bro she's awesome 👍
The brake system you are looking at on the vehicle is a split diagonal system. One port on the mast cylinder is connected to the right rear line and also connected to the left front line. The other port is connected to the left rear and also connected to the right front line. This design will keep the vehicle stopping straight in case you loose fluid pressure in one of the lines. This is in most vehicles today especially front wheel drive vehicles. You bleed the right rear then the left front. Or the left rear then right front. The system sue draws in the beginning is the front brake lines are using one port of the master cylinder and the rear is using the other. If one side looses pressure there is a proportion valve that will block off fluid to that system. Now you will have either front or rear brakes only. So let’s say you lose pressure to the front brakes and only have rear. The vehicle is not going to stop well and if it is bad weather even worse most likely spinning like a top. The split diagonal system if you loose pressure on one system you still have a front and rear brake to stop the vehicle straight.
I feel like I'm in Ford apprentice mechanic training! Detailed whiteboard explanation with practical video instructions. Can't believe she taught all of these for free. Thank you so much
Some cars (toyota) have ABS pump on the passenger side. So for the driver front it actually takes a longer journey for the fluid than the passenger front. So for that I start from driver rear wheel. Also when doing one-person bleeding, I apply a thick grease on the bleeder thread to prevent air from being sucked in via the threads.
yes i think she loosened the bleeder too much. Good tip to use grease
When Sue is talking, I'm listening 👂🏾
Best video I've watched. I've watched three brake fluid bleeding videos tonight and by the time I got to this video I was stressed out of my mind. Now that I've watched this video, I feel so calm and confident. Thanks so much for the teaching, Sue
This is by far the longest and best video I’ve seen explaining how to properly bleed the brakes! Thank you so much, kudos to almost having 1 million views, and showing how it’s really done!!
I watched the thing in its entirety even though I already know how to bleed the brakes because Sue is amazing! Love the videos by 1A Auto, they're both informative and entertaining.
Sue! You're a natural and talented teacher. Thanks for saving me time and money after I watched your Nissan Murano front brake video. I'm an old mathematics teacher who enjoys lightweight automotive maintenance. The brake-bleed kit makes this job look reasonable without a helper.
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
Glad you mentioned the Corvette brakes being different from the norm on the order that you bleed each wheel as well as which side of the caliper to do first. I had heard that and now you confirmed it. Getting ready to replace pads because of excessive brake dust and bleed system on a 2017 Corvette with 20k miles. The brake fluid is black...........long overdue for a brake system flush.
Great video. I came across an instructional video that states your order of bleeding depends more on the distance from the ABS motor to the wheel ( if equipped with ABS) than the distance from the master cylinder. Also, Peak brake fluid is rated for both Dot 3 and Dot 4. Kind Regards, Craig
Absolutely love when your teaching us stuff! The amount of detail and explanation is always on point
Wow I have never said this on any video I’ve ever watched on UA-cam. And it’s not because the videos were bad but, I have to say this lady knows her stuff. I’ve watched many on bleeding the brakes and she’s the first one I’ve watched that I can say without a doubt that I can easily bleed my brakes without referring back to the video. Great job! And now you’re my go to person/lady from now on when I need to learn something on my vehicle. Thank you so much for a through video. Namaste 🙏
Sue, you are so good! Love your teaching style, confidence and humor! Very solid production!
This is the 1st video that I've seen Mrs. Sue teach. Absolutely an amazing job. I'm glad I watched it. I learned a lot. I'm fairly confident I will be able to do a proper brake job from now on. But, we will see........
This has to be the best video I’ve seen that was very explained in every detail, glad I found it thank you so much, looking forward to future videos.
Too much pedal travel when pumping up brakes. Have a new master cylinder on hand. She should know this. Not good
Fantastic video. So much better than how I learned with my dad barking orders at me to press the brake which is about all I learned 34 years ago
Very comprehensive and thanks because I will review this video again when doing all 4's with new brakes, calipers, and flush. I love the videos in general as it teaches me a lot
Thanks for the time to do this kind of videos, with such level of detail.
Thanks for the thorough video. I bleed my brakes, they work fine but a little soft so I'm going to go back in and utilize the techniques you suggested the three pump in particular 👍
Thank you SO MUCH for this!! I've always paid to have it done because i was intimidated to do it on my own or mess things up. But your patient explanation gave me the courage to get the kit and do this own my own the next time I need to work on my brakes. Thank you!!
+Carlos Jr Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto i used 5.1 brake fluid😊
@@1AAuto Do we pump the brakes with the car off?
@@hxd9321 Yes. Do not EVER bleed brakes with the car running.
Thanks Sue. You have been giving me the confidence to work on my 2005 EX Honda Element. I live in the rust belt of WI, so i can relate to your videos 100%. I have to replace my drivers side CV axle because the inner boot is ripped and leaking. I now have the confidence after watching your videos.
Thank you! Sue is a very good instructor. And she cleans up her messes lol! Great video.
Hi Sue,
Your video is terrific. The tips you provide make complete sense and explanation for bleeding all four wheels even if only doing fronts makes it a no brainer to do. I've done brakes for years without issues but always with a peddle-pusher to assist. Your education for use of the single person kit has given me the confidence to go get one and try it on my own. I like your delivery. Thank you.
Very informative as well as entertaining. Appreciated you showing/explaining the "mistake" as well.
+Stick Wall Farm Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto ¹à
Wow what a friendly and incredibly likeable soul and talented mechanic! My son and I will be doing this with confidence this weekend thanks to your awesome, thorough job and explanations with fantastic live demonstrations!
First time viewer,subscriber and buyer.Thank you Sue for showing us the essentials,tips and tricks to bleeding the vehicles brake system properly.Very informative.Thanks again.
Funny, I was taught to renew the fluid whenever the system has had a repair and my friends thought I was crazy. GOOD JOB.
Flushing breaks is almost a no brainer(once see this) why not more often after all break fluid is so costly at under $8-$12 qt. easy and not overly hard. Thx sue-
It appears that Honda takes a difference stance on the traditional bleeding process. They recommend bleeding the LF first, then RF, RR, then LR. Thank you for the videos. Your an awesome teacher!
I think that's because they're starting from the ABS module on the Passenger side, instead of the Master Cylinder on the Driver's side.
Which is where any, and all, cars with ABS brakes are supposed to start from.
According to the internet.
HI Sue,
followed your instructions and my brakes are now perfect! Thank you again!
Thank you for making this video, as a person who has not ever done the actual bleeding of brakes himself only doing with the help of others usually the one who just does the pumping for the person who is. I now have a clear understanding of how this process is to be done along with some other additional wise pointful choices that mafe since. Such as when only doing the fronts to also take the time to do the back as well. Which this is something that I recently did not do this past weekend, when I replaced new front brakes & calibers. So I now think I can do this myself. Now to to try to tackle what I think is either a bad master cylinder or brake power booster or both.
As a woman who works on cars (DIY), it’s so refreshing and encouraging to learn from another woman on UA-cam!
It's so cool to see as it's not a usual sight
Bleeding the brakes is also dependent on where the ABS module is as well.
The vehicle she was working on had abs. Surprised she didn’t talk about abs. The procedure is complex (and varies by vehicle) but necessary.
@@Funwithhighnotes I wondered myself why she didn't bring up the abs, I've heard if you get air into the abs system you have to get a garage with the right scan tool to get the air out....
Sue your simply the best ! So clear ,no crappy music ,to the point and yet very detailed .thanks again for sharing .
Thank you so much! This has been an excellent video and now I am going to attempt to do it this way-the right way-I thought I had bled my brakes but did not know about the correct order-and even then, I was doing it all wrong! I haven't risked taking my Honda CRV out onto the road because my brakes were soft, spongy and ineffective.
Many Thanks from the UK!
Good video. What I'd add:
Always clean the outside of the reservoir and lid before opening.
Use a flare nut wrench.
Fill the reservoir from a pitcher with a nozzle or a funnel to get it where you need it and reduce the chances to spill any in the engine bay to next to nothing. Add a warning to immediately wash any spill off with water to not ruin parts and lacquer.
The end should be bringing the old fluid back to a place that properly dispose of it.
Torque specs of the repair manual should be followed.
Great video. But, how did the initial air in the hose magically disappear?. How did you fill the hose with fluid so the air in the hose was not sucked back into the caliper on the first press? Also, how do you prevent air from being suck in through the bleeder threads when out so much?
Now I know your name! Sue thank you so much, I always watch your Mazda 3 videos from around 2 years ago when I work on my car. I can't tell you how helpful they are
You explain things better than anyone on UA-cam thank you 🙏
This was a excellent video, im trying to return to the automotive field, and these videos really help me. Keep up the great work!!!!
Watch the pedal travel when first pumping up the pedal. Do not want to ruin seals in master cylinder. Small pushes until it builds pressure
I did all processes on second master on 98 Chevy reseviour has seals .
Had to replace broken rear feed line, now new. Trying to single person bleed.
Sue you're an absolute beast. Thanks for the teaching!
This is an excellent video. Much better than most on the internet. Thank you!
If you're doing a brake job & spill fluid on your paint, make sure to clean/wash it with soapy water.
Thanks for this very valuable video. I'm wondering ..... how to flush the abs pump, to avoid some of the pump pistons/plungers to stick? Thank you again
Excellent topic, have been waiting for this one 👍🏽
I used to have a 1979 Buick Lesabre in mint condition and I loved working on it even if there was nothing wrong with it. Love the videos , great information for sure.
supposed to put a block of wood or something under the brake pedal so it does not travel so far, as it can damage seals in master cylinder, when you move it out of normal range.
I used to push brake pedal to floor. Tighten brake zirk/ fitting. Then after a reasonable amount of fluids flowed. I was good. Now master cylinder I don't know. Did many on old 70 chevys . 98 is pissing me off. All new lines . I blew 40 buck on a brake bleeder. 3rd now. My problem I have help.
Great video. Super clear and easy to understand. Maybe consider recommending a flare nut wrench for bleeder screws. If you round one of those, you'll be sorry. Also, brake fluid boils because brake fluid tends to absorb water (the reason for periodic fluid flushes). The water will boil, causing vapor to be created which is a compressible gas. Air bubbles are compressible (unlike brake fluid) and so you get the soft pedal or need to pump up the pedal to brake. Thanks again for the video.
Flair nut wrench 🔧 fits on front caliper bleeder screws but too bulky for rear, unfortunately.
I have to say that this was the BEST how to video. Great instructor that doesn't make a newbie feel dumb. 1A auto is going to be my first place I go.
I was only looking for a refresher on the tire order of a system bleed, which came out right away, but you were so interesting I stayed for the whole thing! Nice job, thanks!
Great tutorial. What about the ABS pump, though?
This mechanic knows her stuff !
Thank you for being crystal clear and informative!
Doing fluid change and front pads on 1978 Ford E-150. Hard lines as well as hoses are in full rust mode but I wasn't prepared to open Pandora's box on replacement until you mentioned the new flexible brake lines that are available, fully meriting a thumbs up and subscription. Thank you.
I would replace the rubber brake lines coming off of the hard lines at 15 years. They collapse internally and will restrict braking and bleeding.
Thought you should know. Great video, you'd be fun to work with. Went to your site to check out the bleeder kit and got this.
"No results found for "brake bleed kit", Check the spelling, try a more general term, or select a category below." Thanks!
Great thorough video ! Gives us DIYers better confidence to get it done ourselves instead of paying a shop to do it
Thanks Sue for the valuable information...
Watching this video is a real confidence builder. Thanks .
I've always had excellent results with the basic gravity bleed. Nothing fancy and it works
The shop manual for my 1956 Oldsmobile 98 says, "The correct sequence for bleeding is left front, right front, left rear, and right rear." My Olds has a single reservoir master cylinder, not the dual reservoir MCs commonly found on today's cars -- Could this somehow impact the bleeding order?
It would appear that when fluid is pushed from the master to the only open bleeder (by way of depressing the brake pedal) the other three lines, under pressure, couldn't back flow any brake fluid or air to the master or to the open bleeder. If so, the bleeding order appears irrelevant.
The shop manual also cautions that the vacuum reservoir associated with the power assist brakes be depleted by applying the brake pedal several times with the engine off before bleeding the system. Also, I've seen it commonly mentioned that one should use a socket to first loosen and re-tighten all of the bleeders so you'll know whether any get damaged in breaking them free. Others also suggest using petroleum jelly or grease at the base of any bleeders that leak air during bleeding operation. Lastly, in replacing brake lines, is it a potential brake fluid contamination problem to apply anti-seize grease to the threaded fittings?
Sounds accurate. Don’t know about your question at the end though.
one of the best vids ever ! Im struggling with getting em brakes bled the right way after changing my calipers. Will try doing it again tomorrow with a fresh mind following you.
Nice work! 👍
Only thing I might add and I'm not sure if I've ever experienced this before but I've seen comments where a few people say that air can get past the bleeder screw threads and cause bubbles in the bleeder line leading you to believe that it's air in the brake line when it's actually air getting through the bleeder screw threads and they say to put some grease around the bleeder screw so no air can get through the threads. IDK, just throwing it out there. Another thing I've noticed with the clear bleeder line that goes over the bleeder screw is that when the line is cold and hard or when it's old and hard that it might not make a good seal on the bleeder and air can get past that seal and into the line leading you to again think that it's air in the brake line. I think they need to come up with a better line or flexible fitting that won't harden like regular clear bleeder line like maybe silicone line or Tygon fuel line or something that stays maliable better in colder Temps or when it ages. Regular PVC hose or line seems to harden and not make a good seal in cold temps or after it gets some age on it.
Could you please explain is there any difference in bleeding a car's brake system with abs and without abs. I do believe that there is brake fluid in the lines leading to the abs pumps.
By the way this was a amazing video, like always 😊
From what I understand, the idea is the same but because of the ABS system, the order in which you bleed the brakes might differ. The master cylinder could be in the same place but the difference in the lines might change that order of furthest from the cylinder to closest. I'd also like a thorough explanation.
Keep in mind air sometimes gets introduced from the threads of the bleeder screw itself as well
To fix the problem remove the screw and apply a thin layer of chassis grease to the threads and reinsert screw to bleed without the air being introduced when bleeding resumes
Also when i bleed brakes i put a small block of wood on the floor restricting full travel of the brake pedal and the reason for that is the master cylinder is not extending into uncharted territory scoring the seals and creating an additional problem due to internal master cylinder leaking
You saying not to press the brake pedal all the way down?
@@CartoonWeasel Correct , Limit the pedal travel.
Although it may take more pumps to replace old fluid no issues of possible damage to Master Cylinder Seals
Hi, thanks for the reminder. To apply grease on the screw, do I have to remove it all the way? Or can I just loosen it, then apply grease where it will sit back? Also, while loosening it, some fluid will probably seep out and might mix with the grease I'm trying to apply. Is it OK? First timer.
Excellent idea, I've seen on another brake repair video where he stresses not to go to the floor but the block of wood would fix that....
Great video. well explained and cleared up a lot of mistakes ive made in the past. Thank you! 1A Auto is great.
Really appreciate your video's, always helpful. I have watched over a dozen brake bleeding video's you are the only one that cleaned the bleeder when finished with brake clean! Thanks for your post's!
Excellent vid, some of those bleeder kits have a check valve so I'm not sure if it's necessary to keep the bottle partially filled with fluid before starting to avoid air going back into brake lines.
I noticed the little black hose fitting. It looks a lot like the check valves I use on aquariums. You may not need to fill the catch bottle first. that is the idea. Of course, I used a HbFrt suction bleeder, and it sucked air around the clear tubing and the threads of the bleed nipple. So I bought a new bleed nipple, and had a friend pump the pedal the old fashioned way for an old toyota corolla.
What do you do when the brake fluid starts to come through the threads of the nipple? Can you use teflon tape there? Thanks
Someone mentioned using thick grease or petroleum jelly but I believe they were referring to the bleeder screw threads. I don’t use the pointy, black adapter I use another small piece of tube over the tube end coming out of the bottle and fit that over the end of the bleeder screw after loosening and lightly tightening, leaving the box end wrench on prior to the bleeding tube. Makes a secure seal. Also only opening the screw about 1/4 turn or just enough to let fluid out so as not to expose threads which would cause leaking and sucking in air.
Great video , loves the steps you teach! Keep them coming, they are all great!
Thank you Sue, you explained how to do in clear detail. Love your humor!
you've gotta be careful how far you twist that caliber bleed screw too, it can't be tto loose or it will still suck in air.
Just what I needed! And a girl any motor-head could fall in love with.
I just discovered 1As channel and your guys are great! Very detailed and thorough. Keep up the great work!
Sue is a national treasure
Too much knowledge to comprehend here. We just need to go back to the Flintstone days and use our hairy legs and bare feet to stop the vehicle.
If you don't do something to seal the threads of the bleeder nipple, you will always see air bubbles in the clear hose getting in via the threads. I would also recommend not pushing the pedal to the floor on each stroke, you can put a block of wood under it to be a temporary stop to limit the travel. Also you would need to use much more flushing and fluid to get most all of the old fluid out, at least a couple of pints
Thanks Sue for the great learning experience. great video!!!!!👍👍👍☺️☺️
Incredible teacher. Great job Sue.
The reason air bubbles make brakes overheat is because air compresses and decompresses, and bubbles act like a spring in the line (while hydraulic fluid doesn't compress). What happens is when you brake, the air bubble will compress, and then when you release the pedal, the air bubble will keep holding pressure and keep the piston pushing on the pad. Not a pressure anywhere as strong as when you brake, but just enough to keep a certain friction going and heat building up. You can check if your wheels are warm after driving on a highway for a while without braking. That "may" be a sign. Mainly if one wheel is much warmer than the others.
Appreciate the info and the good sense of humor. Keep it up.
Plus 1 for Sue as a teacher, very well done!!!!!
One of the best videos I have seen on brake work!! Excellent video sue!! 👍🇨🇦
Great video! Ive been doing my brakes all my life, never once had anyone do my brakes and i been bleeding them wrong! Thanks for the info!
Sue is my favorite her personality makes the video enjoyable thank you 1Auto
Fun, informative, entertaining and charming. Thank you so much for this video! Just recently replaced a caliper myself and wanted to make sure my method of bleeding the brakes was correct! Unfortunately im going to be bleeding them again due to not adding the fluid in when bleeding them to avoid air intake back in... Welp, glad i watched this vid!
Great video- content, production, and editing!
Easy to follow instructions. Thank you. Bleeder screw leakage with a nice snug closure has always been my problem, even with new calipers.
+ken tyson Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Really great video. Very clear useful info, you clearly love what you do!
Perfectly explained. Awesome video! Thanks, Sue.
Enjoyed your personality helping 1A with information
Can we get a playlist of just Sue's content? Best mechanic and presenter you guys have by far. She's awesome.
Great job on this video. Some additional tips.. If you are using a vacuum bleeder add some teflon plumbers tape to the threads of the bleeder screw, otherwise you will suck air bubbles all day long thru the loose threaded bleeder connection. Not so much when you are using pressure from the pedal as the pressurized fluid will seep out of the threads slightly. Also use a zip tie around the bleeder hose-to bleeder screw for a tight seal. Another tip. If you are not sure about the order of the locations to start and finish, start at the back and just keep bleeding until the air bubbles stop.👍✌
Sue makes great videos. Enjoyable and informative.
Got training video! Thanks for putting out awesome education for the young folks!
Marvelous video. I watched so many videos but this one was the best for bleeding brakes.
Fantastic video and explanation !!
A most instructive and entertaining video, Very well delivered.
I always check to see where the anti brake lock module is located to see what the sequence for bleeding the brakes or flushing the system will be. Sample the camaro has the master cylinder on the left side in front of the driver, but the anti lock brake module is on the passenger side. Looking at the lines the furtherest caliper is the right rear, left rear, right front left front. That would be the sequence. Personally I always flush the system whenever I'm replacing any brake set. A 32 ounce brake fluid bottle with a hose to the bottom and zip tight to keep it place is what I used to bleed or flush the brake system by myself. DOT 4 brake fluid is the way to go when DOT 3 or DOT 4 is called for. Love your videos.