NEVER Bleed Brakes Until Watching This! Gravity Brake Bleeding
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- Опубліковано 21 кві 2022
- Watch at proclaimliberty2000 the most easy, simple, safest and inexpensive way to bleed brakes.
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So good to see that Red Forman has a successful YT career after that 70s show
I stopped watching when he put jackstands under the bumper 💀💀
If this will eliminate my wife from the equation, I'm in.
I've used gravity bleeding for my motorcycles and car. One main advantage, especially on old vehicles, is not needing to depress the brake pedal. Doing this with the bleeder open means the pedal will go all the way to the floor and this means the master cylinder piston seals are pushed all the way to the end of the bore in the cylinder. Old vehicles, where there may be lots of debris/corrosion etc along the unswept section of the bore, could damage the seals on the piston. This will make for loss of braking pressure when using the car from then on. A rebuild kit will be necessary to correct. Gravity bleeds avoid this risk. Yes, they take longer, typically 15-30 min per wheel. But you can open two or all the wheels at same time to save some time. Most classic car restorers may use gravity bleeds for this reason, but any commercial shop will not due to time constraints.
I always do a two person job. The air gets purged quickly. Having your child or wife or friend help will build a lasting memory. I still remember when my dad asked me to press the brake pedal to bleed it.
That will not work on anything. Some system you have to cycle the antilock module to. get air out. Some system uses different types of valves like a differential valve that won't let air pass.. I learned all that by going through the school of hard knocks for 45 years unlike the host. Had he had ANY experience he would know that.
Thank you for sharing this. I like your no-nonsense approach to the issue! No BS! No music! Just get right to the point! Thanks again.
When gravity bleeding, I find it helpful to keep the end of the plastic tube higher than the bleeder screw (but below the master cylinder). This helps to ensure that the bleeder screw is under pressure rather than vacuum. If the bleeder screw is under vacuum (which would be the case if the end of the tube is below the bleeder screw), this vacuum can easily suck air into the system past the bleeder screw threads. This will cause a constant stream of air bubbles in the tube, which makes it impossible to know whether the system is bled.
I did this many years ago and worked great. You may want to put some brake fluid in the waste bottle and have the end of the tube submerged in the fluid. It should show any bubble but also prevents any air being drawn back into the brake line. Good video
I find it easier just to drive and not even use my brakes at all
It seems a lot of people do not understand the how and why of this process and a number who have commented say to pump the brake pedal that more often than not will cause problems and this is why.
Until I watched your video I had never hear of 'gravity brake bleeding'. Your explanations and video work are terrific. What is equally impressive are your concise straight forward directions. Reading the comments from others testifies to a very worthwhile video that should help a lot of folks. Thanks.
I just changed 10 year old brake fluid out of my Honda and used new Honda brake fluid. Both were almost the exact same color. I have trouble telling when I have cleared out all of the old. I just kind of "guestimated" based on the length of line, so I'm not sure I got a perfect replacement. I wish they would make it clear or at least put some kind of dye in it that will fade away in time. Good video. I used this gravity method last year on a Ford but this time I had a helper. I was careful to tell him not to press all the way to the floor. Later I read a YT comment someone said- keep one of your (shoed) feet under the brake pedal while pressing with the other one. Sounds like a good idea.
I prefer this: first attach clear bleeder hose to the fitting of choice. Route it up/use a hangoff point of some kind then drop it down to your bottle. That loop being higher than the bleeder [6" seems to work well enough most systems] is going to trap air bubbles and prevent them from returning to the system being bled. Then open the fitting with a flare wrench. Do not remove tubing while bleeder valve remains open.
Yor videos are always shot, clear and to the point. Thanks for respecting my time
Fantastic video, very clear and comprehensive, thank you!
Thank you so much for your time. Very concise and to the point. Very clear speaking voice and good volume. Many people can take many good points from you. All the best and may God bless.
Clear and concise. Well done
Wow, this is such a great tip sir! Have always thought the brake pedal needs to be pumped throughout the procedure. Thank you very much dear proclaimliberty2000.
Great video. It worked perfectly on my Ford Probe. You could actually see air bubbles leaving in the brake fluid. My road test with cars power assist and 4 wheel disc brakes stopped the Probe perfectly. Now my brake pedal is same hight as my clutch. A new master cylinder was installed but needed a brake bleed. Thanks Red.