You must have missed the part where I said you can do it without the app. Also Rinnai invented the tankless water heater, they tend to think of details you didn't
@@mechanical-hubAnd it only took the "inventors" what? 25 years to go "wireless" programming? It has been 25 years since Paul Harvey started shilling those things as "forever hot water" right?
@@mechanical-hubInvented the tankless water heater, huh? Uh...what do power washer "steam cleaners" and all the beverage making and dispensing devices that have cold water going inside them or stored inside them and hot liquids coming out use? Tankless water heaters. The University of Nebraska Lincoln Men's College Baseball field is heated because most precipitation comes in "late winter" and "early spring" when "heat units" and "drying days" from the Sun are...in short supply. It hasn't been 25 years but probably 20 and I don't think Rennai got the "contract". In-floor heating predates Rennai "inventing the tankless water heater". And LIVESTOCK WATER TANK HEATERS THAT ARE USED TO KEEP WATER THAWED FOR LIVESTOCK DOWN TO -20 F OR COLDER ARE ALSO TANKLESS. AND THEY'VE BEEN AROUND MANY DECADES. So have heated livestock "waterers" that have a very small capacity and high usage by comparison. Many are "geothermal" and require no actual heater at all. So saying they "invented" something still unperfected after 25 years since it STILL takes "6 SKUS" I.E. "MODELS" AND/OR "OPTION PACKAGES" TO "REPLACE" THOSE "OBSOLETE" TANK-STYLE HEATERS AND AT LEAST "VCR-PROGRAMMING" LEVEL INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY "SKILLS" JUST TO DO THE "SETUP" IS ALREADY A STRETCH. AT MOST YOU COULD MAYBE CLAIM "FOR HOUSEHOLD USE" BUT IN REALITY THE "HOUSEHOLDS" THEY WERE ORIGINALLY "INVENTED" FOR WERE IN APARTMENT BUILDINGS AND PARTICULARLY "FLATS" IN "EUROPE" AND REGIONS WHERE "CLIMATE" WAS NOT A FACTOR BECAUSE THEY ALREADY HAD "DISTRICT HEATING" AND THE WATER DELIVERED TO THOSE "HEATERS" WAS/IS ALREADY AT LEAST "ROOM TEMPERATURE". THING IS THEY DON'T DO MUCH SHOWERING, CLOTHES WASHING, DISHWASHING ETC FOR "FAMILIES OF FOUR" IN THOSE FLATS BECAUSE THERE "FOREVER HOT WATER" ALSO TENDS TO BE "NON-POTABLE" AFTER GETTING "BOILED" BACK AT THE "DISTRICT HEATER" AND PUMPED THROUGH MILES - OR KILOMETERS - OF "CAST IRON" WATER "MAINS". NOT TO MENTION ALL THE LEAD-SOLDERED "COPPER PIPE". THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN "ROOM TEMPERATURE" AND THE 50ISH DEGREE WATER THAT COMES IN THE "MAINS" OF THE OVERWHELMING MAJORITY OF "HOUSEHOLDS" IN "AMERICA" AS WELL AS THE "ENERGY DENSITY" OF UTILITY NATURAL GAS VS. THE NEED TO HEAT EVERY DROP OF 50ISH DEGREE SUPPLY WATER TO 120 DEGREES "DELIVERY TEMPERATURE" WHICH IS THE "MAX" TEMP CONSIDERED "SAFE" TO PREVENT "SCALDING" WHILE BEING THE MINIMUM HOT WATER TEMP CONSIDERED SAFE IN THE "FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY" FOR USE WITH "NON-TOXIC" AND "BIODEGRADABLE" DETERGENTS WHERE DETERGENTS ARE USED AT ALL. AT ABOUT 200 DEGREES F "DELIVERY TEMPERATURE" DETERGENTS ARE NOT REQUIRED BECAUSE THE HIGH TEMPERATURE WATER CAN FLASH TO "STEAM" AND EFFECTIVELY STERILIZES COOKWARE, TABLEWEAR, ETC. THEY ALSO "SELF DRY" AT "ROOM TEMPERATURE" IN A FEW SECONDS AND AS LONG AS "STORED" IN A HIGH-UV AND "COOL AND DRY" ENVIRONMENT - RELATIVE TO 200 DEGREES F AND 100% RELATIVE HUMIDITY THEY STAY "STERILIZED". THAT "INVENTION" ALSO HAS A LOT OF "COMPATIBILITY ISSUES" WITH MODERN HIGH-EFFICIENCY MAJOR APPLIANCES LIKE FRONT LOAD WASHING MACHINES AND DISHWASHERS. AND DISHWASHERS HAVE ALWAYS NEEDED THEIR OWN "TANKLESS WATER HEATERS" TO GET THAT 150+ DEGREES FOR HOUSEHOLD USE. MODERN WASHING MACHINES "CONSUME" ONLY QUARTS OF WATER PER "CYCLE" AND ALSO NEED THEIR OWN "TANKLESS WATER HEATERS" FOR TRUE HOT-WATER "ANTIBACTERIAL" WASHING. THAT "ANTIBACTERIAL" THING TENDS TO BE A BIG DEAL FOR GETTING CLOTHES "STERILE" CLEAN. AND KEEPING THE MACHINE "DISINFECTED". THE REALITY IS THAT NOBODY WANTS TO BE AND/OR CAN BE BOTHERED AND TROUBLED TO "SERVICE" AN "INVISIBLE" MAJOR APPLIANCE MUCH LESS THE ONE MANY OTHER APPLIANCES RELY ON TO DO THEIR JOBS AND ARE PRETTY MUCH "MAINTENENANCE FREE". EVEN "ONCE A YEAR" WHICH HILARIOUS AS A "SCHEDULE" FOR AN APPLIANCE THAT GOES THROUGH ENDLESS "HOT COLD CYCLES" FOR EVERY "EVENT" AND PROBABLY HAS A "DEFAULT" SERVICE "SCHEDULE" OF X NUMBER OF "EVENTS" AND/OR X HOURS IN "OPERATION" UNTIL THE "SETUP" IS PERFORMED AND A HUMAN OPERATOR IS RESPONSIBLE FOR "MAINTENANCE".
so, be honest with us, what did you charge for this install. how much was the parts, and what was the labor? How long did it take without the video. please be honest with us
Any idea how to get back to the “seT” to do the initial setup, and complete via Bluetooth, was showing, unsure what I press and now I can’t seem to get back to initial setup 😢 TIA!!!
Filters do not "treat water". Neither do chemical treatments that have the effect of making the water NON-POTABLE. Which doesn't just mean "undrinkable". It means unsafe for human "consumption" including use washing items that come in "direct contact" with the skin and may be inadvertently "ingested". That includes dishes and clothes. And its why in the "commercial food service industry" and "commercial laundry industry" no "treatments" at all are used and 175-200 degree "tap water" only is used. And its why city water supplies are chlorinated to be "antibacterial". All "tap water" is going to "scale" in that piece of shit. The only way to get "scaleless" water is to use distilled water with zero "dissolved solids" and as the real "universal solvent" that 100% pure water when heated and flowing through plumbing under pressure is super "corrosive". Any and all existing "scale" in plumbing gets dissolved and redeposited elsewhere. With that stupid ass "return" system needed for "instant hot water" it goes right into the "coil" as "cold" water and cold water holds less scale than hot water. And the largest household water distillers "make" only a few gallons per day and require constant "maintenance". If supplied with "soft water" they are effectively plugged with salt deposit "scale" in "days". And they are "tankless water heaters" in and of them selves. Tankless heaters are a joke for "low temperature" and "high flow" so-called hot water and the idiot "engineers" try to "adapt" the exact same "technology" used in every car wash "steam cleaner" heated power washer to "household use". The difference is power washer coils are "vertical" and are wrapped "around" the burner flame and only a small area of many coils is heated so "overheating" really isn't possible even when shut down "hot". They also produce low volume high temp hot water and the coil typically holds several minutes of water "usage" internally. Everything about the two is "diametrically opposed" and as a result a hot water power washer can and will literally run for "years" - 8000+ hours in a year - at "max performance" and the highest pressure and temp possible "maintenance free" with zero "wear and tear" on the pump and burner and coil and using any and all "tap water" including "recycled" water and prefers "working" to "resting" for DECADES while a "forever hot water" Rinnai takes "expert installation" and all kinds of "high technology" and at least "annual" so-called "maintenance" to work "right" ONCE A YEAR EVERY YEAR FOR A "DECADE" ON "AVERAGE". And unlike "obsolete" tank-style heaters it does not store water, heat or energy even "temporarily" is CONSTANTLY "powered up" and requires both ELECTRICITY AND A GASEOUS FUEL TO "WORK" AT ALL. DURING A POWEROUTAGE A GAS-FIRED TANK-STYLE HEATER STILL "RUNS". AND ELETRIC HEATERS CAN BE POWERED BY "HOME GENERATORS". AS CAN WELL PUMPS WHERE THERE IS NO CITY WATER OR RURAL WATER SYSTEM WITH. WITH A TANKLESS HEATER YOU ARE SCREWED AND THERE IS A 100% CHANCE THAT EVEN "MOMENTARY" POWER OUTAGES - MORE AND MORE COMMON WITH A "SMART GRID" - PUT IN "FACTORY RESET" OR "FACTORY DEFAULT" MODE AND "SETUP" MUST HAPPEN ALL OVER AGAIN. NO PROB "ON THE APP" BUT HOW MANY APPS USED "ONCE A YEAR" FOR "SERVICE" STAY "AWAKE" AT ALL TIMES AND IS THE "RESET" WATER HEATER "BRAIN" GOING TO "REMEMBER" YOUR PHONE'S BLUETOOTH ID? AND VICE VERSA? AND AT WHAT "RANGE". BLUETOOTH IS "LINE OF SIGHT" ONLY AND EXTREMELY SHORT RANGE EVEN THEN. IT'S ALSO A CONNECTION MOST PEOPLE KEEP DEDICATED TO "TELECOMMUNICATIONS" AND "INFOTAINMENT" THROUGH EARBUDS, HEADSETS, ETC. AND THOSE THAT AREN'T DEDICATED BLUETOOTHERS TYPICALLY HAVE NO CLUE AT ALL WHAT IT IS MUCH LESS HOW TO ACTIVATE IT, CONNECT AND USE IT. THERE ARE ALSO "BLUETOOTH DEVICES" THAT ARE iPhone or Android specific. And typically iPhone users are more Bluetooth types. So why the App? "Data collection" of course. There are no "terms and conditions" for Bluetooth data collection and Bluetooth is the number one way "hackers" get into "wireless devices" since it's so easily forgotten as a "public" and short-wave "Wi-Fi". If your phone is "discoverable" the "hacker" can see what it is, if you have any "security" enabled and that you're not paired. That's how they "case" for phones to steal and easy "marks" to pickpocket for other things of value since "personal security" is a state of mind. Somebody lax about their "cybersecurity" is lax about their "security" in general.
Is it ok to use more than one thermal bypass valve in the system? We just added a second story. The place where our loopback was, is not helpful to our current situation, nor was it helpful for our kitchen. I was hoping to leave the original loop back in place and add one for the second-floor bathroom and one in the kitchen. If not 3 how about 2?
seems all the new Gas units need power from the wall. comming from a bosch that never did, will this work without electricity or will i need a power bank if that goes out?
Nice that you are teaching others on the Rinnai installation. Unfortunately, you need to inform ppl that they need an additional accessory such as a Wifi Module in order to install their Tankless Water heater to the Rinnai Central App. Bluetooth isn't enough in order to install your water heater through your phone
@mechanical-hub not according to customer service. I called them due to my RX199IN not showing up on the Central App even though I connected my phone through Bluetooth from the water heater. Customer Service stated I needed the Wifi Module. I kept restarting the app, and I even disconnected the Bluetooth and reconnected the Bluetooth, and the device (water heater) never showed up on the app.
I'm not sure what is happening, only thing I would ask is if you're activating bluetooth on the unit control to start the pairing mode? You probably are but that's all I've had to do so far with each of the units I've installed. The pairing has taken a minute or two but it's been pretty seamless and reliable. Bluetooth connect allows for the setup, not remote monitoring, just worth noting for anyone reading the comments. If you want to connect and control remote then yes, you do need a wifi module.
@@mechanical-hub Couple Questions: (1) Once it is initially set up by the installer using Bluetooth, what options does the home owner have to adjust that temperature? (2) If replacing a very old (early 2000s) Rinnai tankless water heater with wired thermostat, can that same wired thermostat be used or does it need to be replaced if the user wants a wired thermostat?
If you were in Ohio I'd definitely have you install my systems (note plural). I'm planning on installing one RXP160iN as the primary unit and a secondary RX160iN. I'm assuming the non-recirc unit would take the return recirc line and then go to the RXP primary? Is that the case? Have you installed dual units? Let me know. Again, great video!
I'm in the same climate zone as you. In a 2 bath 1,500 sq ft home. My plumber is going to install the RXP160in version. Is the gas pipe in your video 1"? Can he use the same flue pipe as my old NG tank heater? Thanks
I have the same question, same size home as you, looking to have my plumber install the new RXP160in. My gas pipe is 1", and the tankless would be 35' from the meter. If I add up all gas appliances (stove, oven, tankless water heater, furnace, dryer) I'm at 330,000 btu but my meter is rated for 250,000 btu. I never see the size of gas lines or meter size addressed in any videos. Since Mechanical Hub is one of the more respected UA-camrs I was hoping to see that addressed.
Excellent video, thank you. Can the exhaust use my existing 3” schedule 40 PVC that my current (power vent) water heater uses? It goes from the basement to the side of the house. Thank you!
I’d suggest downloading the RX series manual. Check your existing PVC, it will have an ASTM designation, compare that to the approved venting listed in the manual.
Yes, he has a small on it. Looks like a Zep-1 or Eastman 2 gallon. It should be installed between the check valve and cold water isolation valve to tankless.
So if the app is downloaded to the "customers phone" and is used for "setup" how much "data logging" is done and sent back to "'headquarters" and how often despite your claim that its "relearning" every "7 days" of "usage pattern"? And who in fact is the ACTUAL ORIGINAL "PURCHASER" OF THAT "APPLIANCE" AND HAS WHATEVER "GUARANTEE" IN HIS OR HER OR THEIR NAME? WHAT IS THE ACTUAL WARRANTY OVER AND ABOVE THE 7-15 YEARS OF "FACTORY PARTS AND SERVICE SUPPORT" THAT VARIOUS STATE AND FEDERAL CONSUMER PROTECTION LAWS REQUIRE THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURERS OF "DURABLE GOODS" SOLD TO THE "GENERAL PUBLIC"? AND WHAT IF ANYTHING CONSTITUTES OPERATOR "ABUSE" AND/OR "NEGLECT" OR "COMMERCIAL/INDUSTRIAL USE" OF THOSE "HOUSEHOLD APPLIANCES"? I HAVE A 100% THAT SAYS SOMEWHERE THERE IS "FINE PRINT" SOMEWHERE YOUR "CUSTOMERS" NEVER SEE IT THAT MAKES YOU - THE "SUPPLIER" OR "DISTRIBUTOR" OR "AGENT" - THE "ORIGINAL PURCHASER" AS LONG AS YOU PAY - WHOLESALE - FOR THE "SKU" - BEFORE THE "CUSTOMER" PAYS - COST PLUS - FOR THE UNIT "DELIVERED AND INSTALLED". AND WHO KNOWS WHAT KIND OF PREMIUM YOU GET FOR EVERY "OBSOLETE" RINNAI "FOREVER HOT WATER" UNIT YOU "UPGRADE" A "CUSTOMER" OUT OF BEFORE THAT 7-15 YEAR STATE/FEDERAL MANDATED PARTS/SERVICE GUARANTEE AND WARRANTY TO BE "FREE FROM DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP" IS "IN EFFECT" AFTER THE "FACTORY WARRANTY" HAS EXPIRED.
very useful information. ive been looking into getting one put into my parents house
Glad we could help
Beautiful install and very informative video! Wish you were in my area...
Great vid
Thanks!
Great video; the RXP is pretty impressive.
That's exactly what I needed... everything is headed in this direction... if the app becomes obsolete... you're the captain of a boat anchor!😢
You must have missed the part where I said you can do it without the app. Also Rinnai invented the tankless water heater, they tend to think of details you didn't
@@mechanical-hub Quite correct! Rinnai's not going anywhere, they're the industry leader.
@@WilliamDiederich * So was SEARS & ROEBUCKS! 😫
@@mechanical-hubAnd it only took the "inventors" what? 25 years to go "wireless" programming?
It has been 25 years since Paul Harvey started shilling those things as "forever hot water" right?
@@mechanical-hubInvented the tankless water heater, huh? Uh...what do power washer "steam cleaners" and all the beverage making and dispensing devices that have cold water going inside them or stored inside them and hot liquids coming out use?
Tankless water heaters.
The University of Nebraska Lincoln Men's College Baseball field is heated because most precipitation comes in "late winter" and "early spring" when "heat units" and "drying days" from the Sun are...in short supply. It hasn't been 25 years but probably 20 and I don't think Rennai got the "contract".
In-floor heating predates Rennai "inventing the tankless water heater". And LIVESTOCK WATER TANK HEATERS THAT ARE USED TO KEEP WATER THAWED FOR LIVESTOCK DOWN TO -20 F OR COLDER ARE ALSO TANKLESS. AND THEY'VE BEEN AROUND MANY DECADES.
So have heated livestock "waterers" that have a very small capacity and high usage by comparison. Many are "geothermal" and require no actual heater at all.
So saying they "invented" something still unperfected after 25 years since it STILL takes "6 SKUS" I.E. "MODELS" AND/OR "OPTION PACKAGES" TO "REPLACE" THOSE "OBSOLETE" TANK-STYLE HEATERS AND AT LEAST "VCR-PROGRAMMING" LEVEL INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY "SKILLS" JUST TO DO THE "SETUP" IS ALREADY A STRETCH.
AT MOST YOU COULD MAYBE CLAIM "FOR HOUSEHOLD USE" BUT IN REALITY THE "HOUSEHOLDS" THEY WERE ORIGINALLY "INVENTED" FOR WERE IN APARTMENT BUILDINGS AND PARTICULARLY "FLATS" IN "EUROPE" AND REGIONS WHERE "CLIMATE" WAS NOT A FACTOR BECAUSE THEY ALREADY HAD "DISTRICT HEATING" AND THE WATER DELIVERED TO THOSE "HEATERS" WAS/IS ALREADY AT LEAST "ROOM TEMPERATURE".
THING IS THEY DON'T DO MUCH SHOWERING, CLOTHES WASHING, DISHWASHING ETC FOR "FAMILIES OF FOUR" IN THOSE FLATS BECAUSE THERE "FOREVER HOT WATER" ALSO TENDS TO BE "NON-POTABLE" AFTER GETTING "BOILED" BACK AT THE "DISTRICT HEATER" AND PUMPED THROUGH MILES - OR KILOMETERS - OF "CAST IRON" WATER "MAINS". NOT TO MENTION ALL THE LEAD-SOLDERED "COPPER PIPE".
THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN "ROOM TEMPERATURE" AND THE 50ISH DEGREE WATER THAT COMES IN THE "MAINS" OF THE OVERWHELMING MAJORITY OF "HOUSEHOLDS" IN "AMERICA" AS WELL AS THE "ENERGY DENSITY" OF UTILITY NATURAL GAS VS. THE NEED TO HEAT EVERY DROP OF 50ISH DEGREE SUPPLY WATER TO 120 DEGREES "DELIVERY TEMPERATURE" WHICH IS THE "MAX" TEMP CONSIDERED "SAFE" TO PREVENT "SCALDING" WHILE BEING THE MINIMUM HOT WATER TEMP CONSIDERED SAFE IN THE "FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY" FOR USE WITH "NON-TOXIC" AND "BIODEGRADABLE" DETERGENTS WHERE DETERGENTS ARE USED AT ALL.
AT ABOUT 200 DEGREES F "DELIVERY TEMPERATURE" DETERGENTS ARE NOT REQUIRED BECAUSE THE HIGH TEMPERATURE WATER CAN FLASH TO "STEAM" AND EFFECTIVELY STERILIZES COOKWARE, TABLEWEAR, ETC.
THEY ALSO "SELF DRY" AT "ROOM TEMPERATURE" IN A FEW SECONDS AND AS LONG AS "STORED" IN A HIGH-UV AND "COOL AND DRY" ENVIRONMENT - RELATIVE TO 200 DEGREES F AND 100% RELATIVE HUMIDITY THEY STAY "STERILIZED".
THAT "INVENTION" ALSO HAS A LOT OF "COMPATIBILITY ISSUES" WITH MODERN HIGH-EFFICIENCY MAJOR APPLIANCES LIKE FRONT LOAD WASHING MACHINES AND DISHWASHERS. AND DISHWASHERS HAVE ALWAYS NEEDED THEIR OWN "TANKLESS WATER HEATERS" TO GET THAT 150+ DEGREES FOR HOUSEHOLD USE.
MODERN WASHING MACHINES "CONSUME" ONLY QUARTS OF WATER PER "CYCLE" AND ALSO NEED THEIR OWN "TANKLESS WATER HEATERS" FOR TRUE HOT-WATER "ANTIBACTERIAL" WASHING.
THAT "ANTIBACTERIAL" THING TENDS TO BE A BIG DEAL FOR GETTING CLOTHES "STERILE" CLEAN. AND KEEPING THE MACHINE "DISINFECTED".
THE REALITY IS THAT NOBODY WANTS TO BE AND/OR CAN BE BOTHERED AND TROUBLED TO "SERVICE" AN "INVISIBLE" MAJOR APPLIANCE MUCH LESS THE ONE MANY OTHER APPLIANCES RELY ON TO DO THEIR JOBS AND ARE PRETTY MUCH "MAINTENENANCE FREE".
EVEN "ONCE A YEAR" WHICH HILARIOUS AS A "SCHEDULE" FOR AN APPLIANCE THAT GOES THROUGH ENDLESS "HOT COLD CYCLES" FOR EVERY "EVENT" AND PROBABLY HAS A "DEFAULT" SERVICE "SCHEDULE" OF X NUMBER OF "EVENTS" AND/OR X HOURS IN "OPERATION" UNTIL THE "SETUP" IS PERFORMED AND A HUMAN OPERATOR IS RESPONSIBLE FOR "MAINTENANCE".
so, be honest with us, what did you charge for this install. how much was the parts, and what was the labor? How long did it take without the video. please be honest with us
Good video
Thanks
Any idea how to get back to the “seT” to do the initial setup, and complete via Bluetooth, was showing, unsure what I press and now I can’t seem to get back to initial setup 😢 TIA!!!
What do you recommend to treat the water going into the system? Water filter? ScaleRx? How often is maintenance required for the internal components?
Filters do not "treat water". Neither do chemical treatments that have the effect of making the water NON-POTABLE. Which doesn't just mean "undrinkable". It means unsafe for human "consumption" including use washing items that come in "direct contact" with the skin and may be inadvertently "ingested".
That includes dishes and clothes. And its why in the "commercial food service industry" and "commercial laundry industry" no "treatments" at all are used and 175-200 degree "tap water" only is used. And its why city water supplies are chlorinated to be "antibacterial".
All "tap water" is going to "scale" in that piece of shit.
The only way to get "scaleless" water is to use distilled water with zero "dissolved solids" and as the real "universal solvent" that 100% pure water when heated and flowing through plumbing under pressure is super "corrosive". Any and all existing "scale" in plumbing gets dissolved and redeposited elsewhere.
With that stupid ass "return" system needed for "instant hot water" it goes right into the "coil" as "cold" water and cold water holds less scale than hot water.
And the largest household water distillers "make" only a few gallons per day and require constant "maintenance". If supplied with "soft water" they are effectively plugged with salt deposit "scale" in "days".
And they are "tankless water heaters" in and of them selves.
Tankless heaters are a joke for "low temperature" and "high flow" so-called hot water and the idiot "engineers" try to "adapt" the exact same "technology" used in every car wash "steam cleaner" heated power washer to "household use".
The difference is power washer coils are "vertical" and are wrapped "around" the burner flame and only a small area of many coils is heated so "overheating" really isn't possible even when shut down "hot". They also produce low volume high temp hot water and the coil typically holds several minutes of water "usage" internally.
Everything about the two is "diametrically opposed" and as a result a hot water power washer can and will literally run for "years" - 8000+ hours in a year - at "max performance" and the highest pressure and temp possible "maintenance free" with zero "wear and tear" on the pump and burner and coil and using any and all "tap water" including "recycled" water and prefers "working" to "resting" for DECADES while a "forever hot water" Rinnai takes "expert installation" and all kinds of "high technology" and at least "annual" so-called "maintenance" to work "right" ONCE A YEAR EVERY YEAR FOR A "DECADE" ON "AVERAGE".
And unlike "obsolete" tank-style heaters it does not store water, heat or energy even "temporarily" is CONSTANTLY "powered up" and requires both ELECTRICITY AND A GASEOUS FUEL TO "WORK" AT ALL.
DURING A POWEROUTAGE A GAS-FIRED TANK-STYLE HEATER STILL "RUNS". AND ELETRIC HEATERS CAN BE POWERED BY "HOME GENERATORS". AS CAN WELL PUMPS WHERE THERE IS NO CITY WATER OR RURAL WATER SYSTEM WITH.
WITH A TANKLESS HEATER YOU ARE SCREWED AND THERE IS A 100% CHANCE THAT EVEN "MOMENTARY" POWER OUTAGES - MORE AND MORE COMMON WITH A "SMART GRID" - PUT IN "FACTORY RESET" OR "FACTORY DEFAULT" MODE AND "SETUP" MUST HAPPEN ALL OVER AGAIN.
NO PROB "ON THE APP" BUT HOW MANY APPS USED "ONCE A YEAR" FOR "SERVICE" STAY "AWAKE" AT ALL TIMES AND IS THE "RESET" WATER HEATER "BRAIN" GOING TO "REMEMBER" YOUR PHONE'S BLUETOOTH ID? AND VICE VERSA? AND AT WHAT "RANGE". BLUETOOTH IS "LINE OF SIGHT" ONLY AND EXTREMELY SHORT RANGE EVEN THEN. IT'S ALSO A CONNECTION MOST PEOPLE KEEP DEDICATED TO "TELECOMMUNICATIONS" AND "INFOTAINMENT" THROUGH EARBUDS, HEADSETS, ETC.
AND THOSE THAT AREN'T DEDICATED BLUETOOTHERS TYPICALLY HAVE NO CLUE AT ALL WHAT IT IS MUCH LESS HOW TO ACTIVATE IT, CONNECT AND USE IT.
THERE ARE ALSO "BLUETOOTH DEVICES" THAT ARE iPhone or Android specific. And typically iPhone users are more Bluetooth types.
So why the App? "Data collection" of course. There are no "terms and conditions" for Bluetooth data collection and Bluetooth is the number one way "hackers" get into "wireless devices" since it's so easily forgotten as a "public" and short-wave "Wi-Fi".
If your phone is "discoverable" the "hacker" can see what it is, if you have any "security" enabled and that you're not paired.
That's how they "case" for phones to steal and easy "marks" to pickpocket for other things of value since "personal security" is a state of mind. Somebody lax about their "cybersecurity" is lax about their "security" in general.
Is it ok to use more than one thermal bypass valve in the system? We just added a second story. The place where our loopback was, is not helpful to our current situation, nor was it helpful for our kitchen. I was hoping to leave the original loop back in place and add one for the second-floor bathroom and one in the kitchen. If not 3 how about 2?
I have not done it myself, I have a dedicated line. However; I know a couple of folks who did it with good resolves and no issues. One has three.
It is usually not recommended to install more than one thermal bypass. Maybe think about installing a dedicated recirc line w/ external pump. $$$$
seems all the new Gas units need power from the wall. comming from a bosch that never did, will this work without electricity or will i need a power bank if that goes out?
Nice that you are teaching others on the Rinnai installation. Unfortunately, you need to inform ppl that they need an additional accessory such as a Wifi Module in order to install their Tankless Water heater to the Rinnai Central App. Bluetooth isn't enough in order to install your water heater through your phone
That’s incorrect. No wifi module needed to connect to a phone. It’s don’t thru Bluetooth, not wifi.
@mechanical-hub not according to customer service. I called them due to my RX199IN not showing up on the Central App even though I connected my phone through Bluetooth from the water heater. Customer Service stated I needed the Wifi Module. I kept restarting the app, and I even disconnected the Bluetooth and reconnected the Bluetooth, and the device (water heater) never showed up on the app.
I'm not sure what is happening, only thing I would ask is if you're activating bluetooth on the unit control to start the pairing mode? You probably are but that's all I've had to do so far with each of the units I've installed. The pairing has taken a minute or two but it's been pretty seamless and reliable. Bluetooth connect allows for the setup, not remote monitoring, just worth noting for anyone reading the comments. If you want to connect and control remote then yes, you do need a wifi module.
@@mechanical-hub I had the same issue, my blue tooth would not connect to the RXP199i.
@@mechanical-hub Couple Questions: (1) Once it is initially set up by the installer using Bluetooth, what options does the home owner have to adjust that temperature? (2) If replacing a very old (early 2000s) Rinnai tankless water heater with wired thermostat, can that same wired thermostat be used or does it need to be replaced if the user wants a wired thermostat?
If you were in Ohio I'd definitely have you install my systems (note plural). I'm planning on installing one RXP160iN as the primary unit and a secondary RX160iN. I'm assuming the non-recirc unit would take the return recirc line and then go to the RXP primary? Is that the case? Have you installed dual units? Let me know. Again, great video!
Great video very helpful, since I do not have NG in my area will I have to install a conversation kit for LP gas?
@@richardp1111 no
Is there a way to manually set the temperature on the side of the unit without the App?
The app isn't required for temp settings
Does the RX 199in have Bluetooth functionality or only the RXP model?
I'm in the same climate zone as you. In a 2 bath 1,500 sq ft home. My plumber is going to install the RXP160in version. Is the gas pipe in your video 1"? Can he use the same flue pipe as my old NG tank heater? Thanks
I have the same question, same size home as you, looking to have my plumber install the new RXP160in. My gas pipe is 1", and the tankless would be 35' from the meter. If I add up all gas appliances (stove, oven, tankless water heater, furnace, dryer) I'm at 330,000 btu but my meter is rated for 250,000 btu. I never see the size of gas lines or meter size addressed in any videos. Since Mechanical Hub is one of the more respected UA-camrs I was hoping to see that addressed.
Why is there no check valves on the dedicated return line or cold supply?
Does it ship with flush valve? Would you recommend buying/installing one if not?
The valve kit is not included and yes, I always install the valve kit because it’s the only way to gain proper access for required service.
Excellent video, thank you. Can the exhaust use my existing 3” schedule 40 PVC that my current (power vent) water heater uses? It goes from the basement to the side of the house. Thank you!
I’d suggest downloading the RX series manual. Check your existing PVC, it will have an ASTM designation, compare that to the approved venting listed in the manual.
yes
@@JustinTBowen it can use pvc venting, so more than likely yes the power vents vent will be fine for this installation.
Check w/ the PVC manufacturer. They say no.
Do you need a expansion tank with a dedicated return loop?
Yes, he has a small on it. Looks like a Zep-1 or Eastman 2 gallon. It should be installed between the check valve and cold water isolation valve to tankless.
How do I get back to the setup?
It’s about time Rinnai caught up to Navien
@@donaldrogerson2258 navien is a piece of crap by far the worst on market
What I’m wondering is why is it 10lbs lighter
Simplified design, less crap that's not needed, Also the recirc pump is totally different which is also way lighter.
So if the app is downloaded to the "customers phone" and is used for "setup" how much "data logging" is done and sent back to "'headquarters" and how often despite your claim that its "relearning" every "7 days" of "usage pattern"?
And who in fact is the ACTUAL ORIGINAL "PURCHASER" OF THAT "APPLIANCE" AND HAS WHATEVER "GUARANTEE" IN HIS OR HER OR THEIR NAME?
WHAT IS THE ACTUAL WARRANTY OVER AND ABOVE THE 7-15 YEARS OF "FACTORY PARTS AND SERVICE SUPPORT" THAT VARIOUS STATE AND FEDERAL CONSUMER PROTECTION LAWS REQUIRE THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURERS OF "DURABLE GOODS" SOLD TO THE "GENERAL PUBLIC"?
AND WHAT IF ANYTHING CONSTITUTES OPERATOR "ABUSE" AND/OR "NEGLECT" OR "COMMERCIAL/INDUSTRIAL USE" OF THOSE "HOUSEHOLD APPLIANCES"?
I HAVE A 100% THAT SAYS SOMEWHERE THERE IS "FINE PRINT" SOMEWHERE YOUR "CUSTOMERS" NEVER SEE IT THAT MAKES YOU - THE "SUPPLIER" OR "DISTRIBUTOR" OR "AGENT" - THE "ORIGINAL PURCHASER" AS LONG AS YOU PAY - WHOLESALE - FOR THE "SKU" - BEFORE THE "CUSTOMER" PAYS - COST PLUS - FOR THE UNIT "DELIVERED AND INSTALLED".
AND WHO KNOWS WHAT KIND OF PREMIUM YOU GET FOR EVERY "OBSOLETE" RINNAI "FOREVER HOT WATER" UNIT YOU "UPGRADE" A "CUSTOMER" OUT OF BEFORE THAT 7-15 YEAR STATE/FEDERAL MANDATED PARTS/SERVICE GUARANTEE AND WARRANTY TO BE "FREE FROM DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP" IS "IN EFFECT" AFTER THE "FACTORY WARRANTY" HAS EXPIRED.
you must be a baseball player. looks like you spend a lot of time at the plate. You better have not voted for Walz
Insults and threats are the regressive's life.