I think personally the fact that the Mishi gives you the OPTION to opt for some more sound on the fly makes it the winner in my books. The one i ended up going with myself after your videos. Thanks!
It took me 30 minutes to take out my resonator. Depends on if it’s a 1.5 or a 2.5. It’s a piece of cake on a 1.5. I thought it would be more difficult. But it wasn’t. On a 1.5 it can be removed just from the top by removing the air box. It’s held by 3 bolts .
Great videos and comparisons, I really appreciate the fair testing that you accomplished! I would also love to see a PRL vs HPS vs stock resonator blockoff mod charge pipes comparison. Also, Civic Type R air inlet upgrade with PRL conversion components vs stock. --both with your thorough testing methods. Thanks again for the great content!
This is all great and good, but.... I'd be willing to bet that after a tune (boost level increase), those closed box systems will not make the same power as an open filter intake. The closed box systems are still pulling air through the stock air box supply inlet, which was designed for factory hp requirements. It would have been more thorough to have tested internal box vacuum at full boost. If that box sees any vacuum, then you have a flow restriction. If closed box systems made power, you'd see them on all high hp cars.
Good job. You've confirmed that the claims from these "go to" aftermarket suppliers are pure bs. There is a line, and its not even all that fine, between advertising puffery and just flat out false advertising and you helped illustrate this. Why waste money on their silly crap when it hardly adds any power? It's the same for exhaust systems. More money, more noise, and only incremental increases.
Thanks so much for all the work you put into the best comparison video of intakes yet! I have both the PRL HVI and Mishimoto intakes on my list of potential mods for my 21 2.0T Sport, along with the PRL Stage 1, which is just the silicone intake tube and a drop in filter. I’m starting to lean toward the latter after watching your results, but the sound increase of the Mishimoto might be the best balance between performance gain and sound. Tough call.
It is a tough call between the Mishimoto and PRL. I think for sound and just a little more performance, the Mishimoto is the way to go. However, the PRL HVI may be a little easier to adapt if you're looking at upgrading your turbo.
@@TheLemonFactor exactly. Upgrading to the CTR turbo isn’t out of question down the road, but it would be a long way down the road for me. So, I think the Mishimoto is the right choice… Ill get to hear some fun whoosh sounds, it’ll give a slight gain in performance, and it’ll pair nicely with a K-Tuner Stage 2 or Phearable Stage 3 . The move back to having to use 93 octane is the main reason I’ll wait a while for the tuner, so the intake will likely be my first performance mod.
One of the best comparison test I've seen yet! Actually considering other factors other than just ambiant temperature! However, there was no baseline with the stock intake to show gains. I would have really liked to see if the manufacturers' claims hold up.
As always, great video !! after watching this, I think none of them are really worth it. They are just too pricey for the results they produce. I will spend a little more and tune the car.
Hey Chad. Have you considered looking at the JB4 tune - for those of us who would prefer to not reflash. Btw, great content - I always look forward to your new vid's.
Thanks for the positive comment and support, Brian. I have considered testing the JB4, and think it would be interesting to see how the base maps compare to KTuner. We'll see what the Patrons of the channel decide on next steps going forward. Checkout the link to the Patreon page in the video description to find out more info on how to sign up and the benefits in becoming a member.
To be honest with you bud and I’m sure lemon factor would agree the stock filter even is more that efficient for a daily the stock system was engineered very well I would stick with stock but to each his own
Awesome video! This serious is really helped in the decision of which intake I want to go with for my 2018 2.0 turbo! Thank you! Keep making great content!
The Misimoto but not for performance honestly. I like the idea of leaving the cover off so we can get a little more noise. I live in Montana and the air temps are usually pretty cold(25*F today) so I don't think it will run into heat soak issues, and I reinstall the cover quickly at any time.
thanks man grate video again! I'm running stage 4 on e33,prl catless downpipe, intercooler and intercooler pipes,af dynamic hot air intake. my k count hits double digits and k com .50-.59.I've been thinking the air intake was the reason why im hitting those numbers. just wasn't sure which intake to upgrade to.I have a better insight thanks again 👍🏽
That K. Con is just fine though…..perfect is .49. It’s gonna rise through a pull ever so often. That number is far from an issue and your k. count is irrelevant. It’s not actually knock count…it’s misfire and direct injected engines especially while cold will have “misfires”. I’d say you literally don’t have any issue whatsoever
@@tylertietz7819 thanks my "tuner" buddy was putting ideas in my head that it was gonna be a issue, so far I'm at .64 after filling up to e34.this tune is really good I was thinking about hitting 400hp but now I'm fine.lsd for my 6 speed is next on my list
Hi Chad, Love the Channel. I just bought a 10th gen and have been watching your videos. Incredibly good content for someone just starting out with this car! I was wondering if there was any plan to update this video or make a new video testing the new PRL HVI Version 2? Was considering the Mishimoto and the PRL HVI but the straight through design of the new V2 PRL looks like it may flow better than both.
Thank you, Ryan! I appreciate the positive feedback and sub. I currently do not plan on testing the PRL HVI V2 as I do not see any change in design that would indicate better performance, quite the contrary, as they've now opened up the bottom of the top panel to the engine bay. PRL does not indicate on their website any benefits over the V1 design. My guess is that the V2 like the open design of the aFe Takeda intake will provide more sound, which many people are looking for, but will not offer any performance gains - much like the testing results of the aFe Takeda.
Nice! Congratulations on your new car 👍. Thanks for the support 😁. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the use of and power potential from the PRL Flex Fuel 💪. Planning on finding out myself in the near future 🤔
Such a great video, thank you so much for supporting the Accord Family!! So I have a quick question - I have a 2.0T Accord with the Phearable Stage 3 Tune on it. I noticed that my knock control usually sits at .64-.67 and my knock retard goes to up to 7 on hard pulls. Is that considered normal? I put 93 premium and live in FL.
My pleasure. Thank you, for leaving a positive comment. A knock count of 7 on a single pull isn't ideal, that would concern me a bit. The knock cont. of .64-.67 isn't horrible, but not great. Might I recommend that you revert back to your stock tune, drive around for a while and get a sense of what your K.cont and K.count does under OEM conditions, then you'd have something to compare the Phearable Stage 3 tune to. Also, you could change where you're getting your gas from, sticking with 93 octane, but going to another Tier One gas station.
@@TheLemonFactor thank you so much for your quick response and information, it is definitely appreciated! I'll definitely run it stock for a bit and see what my numbers are looking at and try any fuel station for sure.
@@TheLemonFactor What could be the cause of the knocking? I have a 1.5 and i sometimes read knocks up to 13.. Has me concerned, i’ve downtuned but it’s been ever since my last oil change and since installing the PRL catless downpipe i’ve noticed knocks in general, never even had 1 knock prior. Now i get them from any sort of pull i do lol
You guys should test the 8th gen accord. I have a stage 2 takeda I bought and am replacing the current air intake (old junkyard aluminum one I had) to see if it makes it any better than it already is
@@TheLemonFactor unfortunately I’m not my man. I stay in southern Missouri but I’ve been looking around for a tune and dyno place to do some testing (no one around here likes to work on foreign) I have a custom dual exhaust, resonator delete/piped, magnaflow free flow mufflers, and a aluminum short ram intake (swapping to takeda stage 2 short ram soon as covid stops delaying shipping it’s been 2 months I’ve been waiting lol) I’m looking for a UR pulley kit, and a RV6 PCD.. both those last two I named have been discontinued so I’m scrapping the barrel for those parts 😅 I have faith in my 2.4 2010 accord lx-s motor tho, sucks the intake manifold is integrated. my true plan was to turbo the k24z3 but I guess bolt ons and tunes are the way to go for this ride.
@@TheLemonFactor man if you can find out a way to turbo this car with the Hondas integrated intake manifold to cylinder head on this specific motor please let me know lol. all forums I’ve dug into lead to dead ends, some said piggy backs etc or fabricating an extra pipe to add a turbo to the cars down pipe but idk how well that would handle since it’s not FI the actual intake. I know most ppl traded off their accords or swapped to the k24a2 because of it. I just don’t feel confident in my plastic manifolds holding boost 😂 I’ve been told 350 Hp can be achieved, on the TSX k24z3s atleast. I’d say right now I’m probably around the 200 whp range. Car came stock 190 hp I haven’t dyno’d the car yet but if all my bolt ons etc add up.. in a world of numbers just from me driving it before it wouldn’t even squall a tire when I take off, now it will squall for a whole second during take off and picks up very quick in the low end rpm. Guess I’ll have to come to Denver someday and see if you can hook it up to a dyno I’d be more than willing to let you tune and run tests on it. She’s at 93k miles now on the motor and body.
Ok, I see you though about the tune before the dyno testing. That is a must. I still prefer to see the results on a stuck ecu. Very interesting series.
I don’t know what you’re talking about. This is the stock tune, stock ECU. The KTuner is simply monitoring different data points. The results would be the same even if the KTuner wasn’t monitoring anything.
@@TheLemonFactor I would like to see what sacrifice one is making for the look and sound of a open box. I like the look and sound but would like to know if the power loss is enough to make it a no go.. thanks for your reply..love your videos
Still could be a consideration as I haven't tested this style. We'll see what the Patrons of the channel decide on next steps going forward. Checkout the link to the Patreon page in the video description to find out more info on how to sign up and the benefits in becoming a member.
Good question. I chose the 3 performance air intakes that I thought were both the most popular, and (at the time) thought would produce the best performance gains on the dyno (guess I was wrong with that). I would consider testing the K&N / AEM (both nearly identical) in the future if there's a strong desire from Patrons to do so (hint, hint), ; )
Great content, Which one is better for sound and performance? Would the intake provide the same noise as BOV? I’m new to all this that’s why I come to you as the professional
Do you think it is possible that removing the resonator caused the Takeda to malfunction? I was thinking about doing Mishimoto with resonator delete. Please let me know your thoughts.
An open intake is going to pull the hot air from the engine bay, where’s a well designed closed system will pull cooler air from outside the car. You want cooler air 😉👍
A difference in design, yes. A difference in power, I don’t know as I haven’t tested it. With that said, I sincerely doubt it’s going to do much more than the V1 - the intake on the Accord isn’t much of a restriction.
Personally, I have not experienced any dealers giving you a hard time over an air intake. With that said, if you have a warranty claim that the dealer can attribute the intake to being the cause then they will deny covering it.
I think personally the fact that the Mishi gives you the OPTION to opt for some more sound on the fly makes it the winner in my books. The one i ended up going with myself after your videos. Thanks!
You can remove the side panel of the PRL HVI, but it's so much easier to remove the Mishimoto's top panel.
It took me 30 minutes to take out my resonator. Depends on if it’s a 1.5 or a 2.5. It’s a piece of cake on a 1.5. I thought it would be more difficult. But it wasn’t. On a 1.5 it can be removed just from the top by removing the air box. It’s held by 3 bolts .
Great videos and comparisons, I really appreciate the fair testing that you accomplished! I would also love to see a PRL vs HPS vs stock resonator blockoff mod charge pipes comparison. Also, Civic Type R air inlet upgrade with PRL conversion components vs stock. --both with your thorough testing methods. Thanks again for the great content!
My pleasure, Johnathon! I’ve had several requests for the air inlet pipe upgrade. We’ll see what the channel Patrons think (hint, hint) 😉
This channel definitely deserves the patreon help. I’m just subscribing, hopefully we get to see a JB4 test soon.
Thanks for the sub, and support. Appreciate the positive comment 😁👍
Thank you for always providing great content for the community!
Thank you! I very much appreciate your support 😁👍
Maybe I'm old school but my first pick is always K&N. If not available, the second pick being Injen.
Seems like for a stock 2.0t the stock air box is perfect. Thanks for your hard work saving me money.
It does appear as though there’s not much performance to gain 🤷♂️
Exactly
Thanks for taking the time to test all these out.
My pleasure, especially when I hear that people like you find the info valuable 👍😁
This is all great and good, but.... I'd be willing to bet that after a tune (boost level increase), those closed box systems will not make the same power as an open filter intake. The closed box systems are still pulling air through the stock air box supply inlet, which was designed for factory hp requirements. It would have been more thorough to have tested internal box vacuum at full boost. If that box sees any vacuum, then you have a flow restriction. If closed box systems made power, you'd see them on all high hp cars.
Finally someone gets it... You didn't see any closed box systems on real performance cars that make big power
Great video chad, thank you. I went with the mishimoto only bc of the sound n that I don’t plan on swapping turbo any time soon.
I like the Mishimoto because you can easily remove the cover if you want to hear more of the intake 😁😉
Awesome video! Super helpful! Next time, try to add time stamps in the description so we can flip back and forth. Otherwise awesome though!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. Don’t forget to checkout some of the other videos on the channel 😁👍
Good job. You've confirmed that the claims from these "go to" aftermarket suppliers are pure bs. There is a line, and its not even all that fine, between advertising puffery and just flat out false advertising and you helped illustrate this. Why waste money on their silly crap when it hardly adds any power? It's the same for exhaust systems. More money, more noise, and only incremental increases.
Just trying to provide some unbiased data for car enthusiasts to make informed decisions 👍
Great content, as usual Chad. I'm looking forward to your next MX-5 RF video.
Thank you, Craig! 😃
Thanks so much for all the work you put into the best comparison video of intakes yet! I have both the PRL HVI and Mishimoto intakes on my list of potential mods for my 21 2.0T Sport, along with the PRL Stage 1, which is just the silicone intake tube and a drop in filter. I’m starting to lean toward the latter after watching your results, but the sound increase of the Mishimoto might be the best balance between performance gain and sound. Tough call.
It is a tough call between the Mishimoto and PRL. I think for sound and just a little more performance, the Mishimoto is the way to go. However, the PRL HVI may be a little easier to adapt if you're looking at upgrading your turbo.
@@TheLemonFactor exactly. Upgrading to the CTR turbo isn’t out of question down the road, but it would be a long way down the road for me. So, I think the Mishimoto is the right choice… Ill get to hear some fun whoosh sounds, it’ll give a slight gain in performance, and it’ll pair nicely with a K-Tuner Stage 2 or Phearable Stage 3 . The move back to having to use 93 octane is the main reason I’ll wait a while for the tuner, so the intake will likely be my first performance mod.
👍
@@TheLemonFactor can you answer. I have downpipe/frontpipe, ctr turbo, and PRL intercooler. Wich air intake would be better for me?
I recommend that you watch all of the related air intake videos… hint, none seem to provide any significant benefits to warrant the cost 🤷♂️
Thank you for all of your hard work. I appreciate your explanation of the process you took.
You’re welcome! I think providing the details is important - it what I would like to know and see myself 🤔
One of the best comparison test I've seen yet! Actually considering other factors other than just ambiant temperature! However, there was no baseline with the stock intake to show gains. I would have really liked to see if the manufacturers' claims hold up.
This is only one video of a multi video series. We set our baseline in the beginning - go check it out on the channel page 👍
As always, great video !! after watching this, I think none of them are really worth it. They are just too pricey for the results they produce. I will spend a little more and tune the car.
A tune is definitely a better bang for your buck!
but a tune and a nice air intake system would just be so nice, I'm thinking about doing both of course!
Hey Chad. Have you considered looking at the JB4 tune - for those of us who would prefer to not reflash. Btw, great content - I always look forward to your new vid's.
Thanks for the positive comment and support, Brian. I have considered testing the JB4, and think it would be interesting to see how the base maps compare to KTuner. We'll see what the Patrons of the channel decide on next steps going forward. Checkout the link to the Patreon page in the video description to find out more info on how to sign up and the benefits in becoming a member.
Great content, now I can make the best decision on what intake to purchase.
And that’s exactly why I make these videos 😁
Sticking to my k&n drop in for sure!
Mishimoto later, possibly!
Probably a good idea 👍
To be honest with you bud and I’m sure lemon factor would agree the stock filter even is more that efficient for a daily the stock system was engineered very well I would stick with stock but to each his own
Awesome video! This serious is really helped in the decision of which intake I want to go with for my 2018 2.0 turbo! Thank you! Keep making great content!
Thanks for the watch and support, Forrest! 👍. So which air intake are you planning to go with?
The Misimoto but not for performance honestly. I like the idea of leaving the cover off so we can get a little more noise. I live in Montana and the air temps are usually pretty cold(25*F today) so I don't think it will run into heat soak issues, and I reinstall the cover quickly at any time.
Makes sense 👍😁. Stay warm 😉
Great vid I have the prl so far its been amazing
👍
thanks man grate video again! I'm running stage 4 on e33,prl catless downpipe, intercooler and intercooler pipes,af dynamic hot air intake. my k count hits double digits and k com .50-.59.I've been thinking the air intake was the reason why im hitting those numbers. just wasn't sure which intake to upgrade to.I have a better insight thanks again 👍🏽
I’m glad to hear that you enjoyed the video. What octane gas are you running with the e?
@@TheLemonFactor 93 I'm in pa 93 is every where but e is hard to come by
👍
That K. Con is just fine though…..perfect is .49. It’s gonna rise through a pull ever so often. That number is far from an issue and your k. count is irrelevant. It’s not actually knock count…it’s misfire and direct injected engines especially while cold will have “misfires”. I’d say you literally don’t have any issue whatsoever
@@tylertietz7819 thanks my "tuner" buddy was putting ideas in my head that it was gonna be a issue, so far I'm at .64 after filling up to e34.this tune is really good I was thinking about hitting 400hp but now I'm fine.lsd for my 6 speed is next on my list
I’m not to mechanically inclined, I’m just looking for horsepower boost would mishimoto be ideal
so basically if I want more horsepower and to hear the intake I would go with the mishimoto? but also is it cold air ?
Hi Chad,
Love the Channel. I just bought a 10th gen and have been watching your videos. Incredibly good content for someone just starting out with this car! I was wondering if there was any plan to update this video or make a new video testing the new PRL HVI Version 2? Was considering the Mishimoto and the PRL HVI but the straight through design of the new V2 PRL looks like it may flow better than both.
Thank you, Ryan! I appreciate the positive feedback and sub. I currently do not plan on testing the PRL HVI V2 as I do not see any change in design that would indicate better performance, quite the contrary, as they've now opened up the bottom of the top panel to the engine bay. PRL does not indicate on their website any benefits over the V1 design. My guess is that the V2 like the open design of the aFe Takeda intake will provide more sound, which many people are looking for, but will not offer any performance gains - much like the testing results of the aFe Takeda.
@@TheLemonFactor thanks for the response! I see what you’re saying and that makes a lot of sense
👍
Chad, great video as always, I started watching your channel before I bought my accord and I’ll stay watching! Any thoughts on the PRL flex fuel kit?
Nice! Congratulations on your new car 👍. Thanks for the support 😁. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the use of and power potential from the PRL Flex Fuel 💪. Planning on finding out myself in the near future 🤔
@@TheLemonFactor Very nice sir, I await your review!
👍
Don't order from Mishimoto directly, they don't tell you but the intake is backordered 8-12 weeks. Closer to the 12 week side
Mine was on backorder for quite a while.
Why no K&N?……. Nm you just answered my question haha
Loved it it's very helpful thanks again
I’m glad to hear that you found the video helpful 👍😁
Such a great video, thank you so much for supporting the Accord Family!!
So I have a quick question - I have a 2.0T Accord with the Phearable Stage 3 Tune on it. I noticed that my knock control usually sits at .64-.67 and my knock retard goes to up to 7 on hard pulls. Is that considered normal? I put 93 premium and live in FL.
My pleasure. Thank you, for leaving a positive comment. A knock count of 7 on a single pull isn't ideal, that would concern me a bit. The knock cont. of .64-.67 isn't horrible, but not great. Might I recommend that you revert back to your stock tune, drive around for a while and get a sense of what your K.cont and K.count does under OEM conditions, then you'd have something to compare the Phearable Stage 3 tune to. Also, you could change where you're getting your gas from, sticking with 93 octane, but going to another Tier One gas station.
@@TheLemonFactor thank you so much for your quick response and information, it is definitely appreciated! I'll definitely run it stock for a bit and see what my numbers are looking at and try any fuel station for sure.
@@TheLemonFactor What could be the cause of the knocking? I have a 1.5 and i sometimes read knocks up to 13.. Has me concerned, i’ve downtuned but it’s been ever since my last oil change and since installing the PRL catless downpipe i’ve noticed knocks in general, never even had 1 knock prior. Now i get them from any sort of pull i do lol
You guys should test the 8th gen accord. I have a stage 2 takeda I bought and am replacing the current air intake (old junkyard aluminum one I had) to see if it makes it any better than it already is
If you’re in the Denver metro area, send me a message 👍
@@TheLemonFactor unfortunately I’m not my man. I stay in southern Missouri but I’ve been looking around for a tune and dyno place to do some testing (no one around here likes to work on foreign) I have a custom dual exhaust, resonator delete/piped, magnaflow free flow mufflers, and a aluminum short ram intake (swapping to takeda stage 2 short ram soon as covid stops delaying shipping it’s been 2 months I’ve been waiting lol) I’m looking for a UR pulley kit, and a RV6 PCD.. both those last two I named have been discontinued so I’m scrapping the barrel for those parts 😅 I have faith in my 2.4 2010 accord lx-s motor tho, sucks the intake manifold is integrated. my true plan was to turbo the k24z3 but I guess bolt ons and tunes are the way to go for this ride.
Sounds like you’ve put a lot of work into your Accord in order to make it your own. It would be interesting to see what a turbo setup would do 🤔
@@TheLemonFactor man if you can find out a way to turbo this car with the Hondas integrated intake manifold to cylinder head on this specific motor please let me know lol. all forums I’ve dug into lead to dead ends, some said piggy backs etc or fabricating an extra pipe to add a turbo to the cars down pipe but idk how well that would handle since it’s not FI the actual intake. I know most ppl traded off their accords or swapped to the k24a2 because of it. I just don’t feel confident in my plastic manifolds holding boost 😂 I’ve been told 350 Hp can be achieved, on the TSX k24z3s atleast. I’d say right now I’m probably around the 200 whp range. Car came stock 190 hp I haven’t dyno’d the car yet but if all my bolt ons etc add up.. in a world of numbers just from me driving it before it wouldn’t even squall a tire when I take off, now it will squall for a whole second during take off and picks up very quick in the low end rpm. Guess I’ll have to come to Denver someday and see if you can hook it up to a dyno I’d be more than willing to let you tune and run tests on it. She’s at 93k miles now on the motor and body.
👍
Ok, I see you though about the tune before the dyno testing. That is a must. I still prefer to see the results on a stuck ecu. Very interesting series.
I don’t know what you’re talking about. This is the stock tune, stock ECU. The KTuner is simply monitoring different data points. The results would be the same even if the KTuner wasn’t monitoring anything.
@@TheLemonFactor Yes of course it's the factory ecu but not with the factory tune. I was giving you props. I don't understand the hostility.
No hostility. I’m trying to tell you it’s the factory tune 🤷♂️
I could not read the synopsis graphs, the vertical and horizontal scale were impossible to read
Please dyno test open air intakes...like the Injen and k&n .please
Do you think they’ll add power, or do you want to see exactly how much power is lost in return for hearing the intake sounds?
@@TheLemonFactor I would like to see what sacrifice one is making for the look and sound of a open box. I like the look and sound but would like to know if the power loss is enough to make it a no go.. thanks for your reply..love your videos
That makes sense. It would be interesting to see if the loss is 3whp or 13whp 🤔. Thanks for supporting the channel 👍😁
@@TheLemonFactor plus I have heard a lot of people say you will lose power. But I have not found a video to prove or disprove that idea
I just saw HPS has a boxed intake for the Accord and was wondering where it would stack up against all these?🤔
The HPS looks an awful lot like the K&N and AEM. 🤷♂️
@@TheLemonFactor yea now that I look at them it does. Think the added flap cover is the only difference.
Still could be a consideration as I haven't tested this style. We'll see what the Patrons of the channel decide on next steps going forward. Checkout the link to the Patreon page in the video description to find out more info on how to sign up and the benefits in becoming a member.
Are theses safe for a 1.5 ? Appreciate the videos!
I’m not sure what you mean by “safe”? Many of the manufacturers who make the air intakes for 2.0 also have a 1.5 option 👍
Can you just tell me which one to buy for my stock 22 Accord sport 2.0? Thanks
PERFORMANCE AIR INTAKE Comparison Winner!?! // 10th Gen Honda Accord
ua-cam.com/video/wQ-1DEia5pQ/v-deo.html
What were the gains in horsepower and torque at 4000 rpm for PRL andMishimoto compared to baseline?
You’ll have to checkout the separate videos in which I tested each one individually - I have the dyno results in each 👍😁
Is there a reason why you didn't use the and use the K&N air filter and the AEM air filter in your testing
Good question. I chose the 3 performance air intakes that I thought were both the most popular, and (at the time) thought would produce the best performance gains on the dyno (guess I was wrong with that). I would consider testing the K&N / AEM (both nearly identical) in the future if there's a strong desire from Patrons to do so (hint, hint), ; )
Great content,
Which one is better for sound and performance? Would the intake provide the same noise as BOV? I’m new to all this that’s why I come to you as the professional
Did you even watch the videos?
Do you have a comparison of air intake for civic 10th gen intake ? Much appreciated
No, unfortunately I do not.
@@TheLemonFactor thank you for your prompt reply much appreciated
NP. Hope you find what you're looking for.
@@TheLemonFactor thank you
Great job , thank you
Thank you, Greg! What would you like to see tested next?
Excellent video
Thanks for the support, Christopher 😁👍. Any preference on what you would like to see reviewed next?
Do you think it is possible that removing the resonator caused the Takeda to malfunction? I was thinking about doing Mishimoto with resonator delete. Please let me know your thoughts.
The resonator was still in place with the aFe Takeda.
@@TheLemonFactor thank you! I’m going to go with the original plan then. Appreciate the response.
👍
What’s better tho for performance close or open intake
An open intake is going to pull the hot air from the engine bay, where’s a well designed closed system will pull cooler air from outside the car. You want cooler air 😉👍
I’m a little lost on the hp for the prl vs mm: is it 252 with the prl and 254 with the mm? Thanks
so the open face intakes don't add any power just sound? bummer
🤷♂️. Now you know 👍
Hey chad, is there a difference in the PRL intake v1 versus the v2?
A difference in design, yes. A difference in power, I don’t know as I haven’t tested it. With that said, I sincerely doubt it’s going to do much more than the V1 - the intake on the Accord isn’t much of a restriction.
will the intake void warrenty and also does it require a tune to get any hp of it?
Personally, I have not experienced any dealers giving you a hard time over an air intake. With that said, if you have a warranty claim that the dealer can attribute the intake to being the cause then they will deny covering it.
Hi, still in the mix. Can you assist PRL OR MISHIMOTO?
If you’re looking for a little more sound, go with the Mishimoto as you have the option to easily remove the cover when you want to.
@@TheLemonFactor thanks for the advice!
Hi realize a video Injen intake for Accord
Do you have the Injen air intake?
@@TheLemonFactor Yes. I want to see the difference of others intakes, because i think the performance is clear
You feel a difference with the Injen air intake?
@@TheLemonFactor yes maybe 6 hp aprox
Really… 🤔
ty
👍😁
Awesome 😎
Thank you! Really appreciate your ongoing support 👍😁
What about the k&n intake lol
Maybe in the sequel 😉
Okey
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I have open box style K&N short ram strictly for sound. No butt dyno gains on my 6-speed. (Extremely loud)
😁