My ford 3000 tractor has the same poorly designed filters inside the rear casing as your's .. We redid the top link piston , changed the fluid 6 gallons. Then hydraulic pump would not prime so we grabbed another Hydraulic pump and it took a prime and was good. Now a few weeks later we are back in the same problems. When we took the top lid off we DID NOT know enough to clean or possible change out the buried hidden filters....So we are having to do this one again. On another ford 3000 we cleaned the filters in place with diesel fuel. Looked like Brand new WOW! pretty. added new hyd fluid and the hyd Pump I guy picked up trash after we attempted bleeding.... I guess we should have taken the hyd pump loose when we cleaned the filter and blew out the lines also... By cleaning the filters we did not capture all the dirt and chunk and it got sucked into pickup tube to hyd pump...Love your video's. Thanks for sharing..
Great video!, my 2910's pto slows down in heavy grass, the 3 point hitch lifts good but bleeds off. I'm wondering if I could have the same problem or if there is a clutch adjustment I could try, it's a 2 stage clutch. I hoping I dont have to split the tractor!. Your video is very helpful!.
Thanks for watching by the way. Sadly Ford didn't provide a means of adjustment for the 2000 series. You will have to split it and do the clutch. That said it's an easy process on that little unit. Hope it turns out for you. Have a great day.
Well I lucked out the belt on my finish mower was slipping and I didnt realize it until I watched the pto shaft still spinning the same when it slowed down in real heavy grass and that's when I realized it was the belt, it felt fairly tight to me but it wasnt enough. I tightened the belt and replaced the spring on the tensioner pulley and it's good now!.
@@steveashworth6707 That's excellent and something that might help others. Thanks for the contribution Sir and thanks so much for watching a fellers video
I am currently working on the hydraulics on my 2000. Have got the top lid off and I’m looking at the tube with the ORing on top and bottom. My tube for some reason is actually pressed down further inside the case. The top of my tube is flush with the housing on the tractor and I can see the top ORing is blown. When I took my snap ring off I noticed it wasnt sitting in a grove at all it was just hugging the tube. My tube is wedged in there pretty good and I’m not sure how to get it out. I’m considering wrapping cloth around the tube and using locking pliers to get tight and peaking it with a hammer. Do you think that would hurt that tube or have any suggestions on getting it out?
The tubes tough and can handle some twisting around. Have seen moisture get in the case and cause it to corrode. Maybe spray some penetration oil. Thanks for watching
My 2610 used to bleed down. After sitting a while it will lift at first but then not lift or drop. After a few minutes it will lift and lower again once or twice, then back to not lifting. So lift is intermittent. Oh and she still bleeds down. Any thoughts?
I would check o-rings for seal. You can try to pack grease around the large service line as it goes into the pump and see if it picks up. If so you need to replace the o-ring within the pump where the tube goes into the pump. Also check the other end for o-ring seal also. Hope it helps thanks for watching.
@@vintagediesel-1 hooked up my drag mower to the remote hookup just to check and make sure pump was good and once i unhooked the hoses all of a sudden my lift works now. Guess something was sticky. Guess i have some parts to put on the shelf for a rainy day now. Planned on rebuilding the top lid but no need for it now.
Having issues ingaging the pto on a ford 340A, grinds a bit when trying to ingage it...was working fine when we bought it and during the testing of brush hog we got tangled in some wire fence wondering if that could of messed up the pto? Also noticed, it would spin when in idle and pto dis-ingaged from watching your video the best option would be to check the inspection port for damage to lever parts or remove shaft first? I'm crossing my fingers we don't have to split it open!
From the description my first guess is clutch. That said I would check the knuckle engagement through the inspection plate. With the tractor off it should engage. If it engages freely when off and you can see the knuckle engaging through the inspection cover access then your going to be splitting the unit. Also pulling the shaft helps so you can inspect the knuckle. Hope that helps.
@@vintagediesel-1 so if the knuckle doesn't engage with the tractor off it could be knuckle and shaft issues...if it does its the pto clutch and it requires splitting the tractor?
@@vintagediesel-1 Than you for your advice we are going to look into it soon as we get a chance in the mean time, I'm going to use the loader and some non pto required attachments thanks again
Go to the 3 minute mark and I show the shift collar and the shift fork . If the teeth on the collar and the hub and the splines are good on the inside of the shift collar then you are splitting the tractor and replacing the pto clutch. Hope it helps you and thanks for watching
My ford 3000 tractor has the same poorly designed filters inside the rear casing as your's .. We redid the top link piston , changed the fluid 6 gallons. Then hydraulic pump would not prime so we grabbed another Hydraulic pump and it took a prime and was good. Now a few weeks later we are back in the same problems. When we took the top lid off we DID NOT know enough to clean or possible change out the buried hidden filters....So we are having to do this one again. On another ford 3000 we cleaned the filters in place with diesel fuel. Looked like Brand new WOW! pretty. added new hyd fluid and the hyd Pump I guy picked up trash after we attempted bleeding.... I guess we should have taken the hyd pump loose when we cleaned the filter and blew out the lines also... By cleaning the filters we did not capture all the dirt and chunk and it got sucked into pickup tube to hyd pump...Love your video's. Thanks for sharing..
Never fun to pop that top twice. Glad to hear ya got it fixed up. Thanks so much for the compliment and thanks a ton for watching these videos.
Great video, would love to see more of your work in a timelapse as mentioned. Learned alot about my F2000 standing out in the drive way. Thank you!
Awesome thanks for watching.
Great video!, my 2910's pto slows down in heavy grass, the 3 point hitch lifts good but bleeds off. I'm wondering if I could have the same problem or if there is a clutch adjustment I could try, it's a 2 stage clutch. I hoping I dont have to split the tractor!. Your video is very helpful!.
Thanks for watching by the way. Sadly Ford didn't provide a means of adjustment for the 2000 series. You will have to split it and do the clutch. That said it's an easy process on that little unit. Hope it turns out for you. Have a great day.
Well I lucked out the belt on my finish mower was slipping and I didnt realize it until I watched the pto shaft still spinning the same when it slowed down in real heavy grass and that's when I realized it was the belt, it felt fairly tight to me but it wasnt enough. I tightened the belt and replaced the spring on the tensioner pulley and it's good now!.
@@steveashworth6707 That's excellent and something that might help others. Thanks for the contribution Sir and thanks so much for watching a fellers video
I am currently working on the hydraulics on my 2000. Have got the top lid off and I’m looking at the tube with the ORing on top and bottom. My tube for some reason is actually pressed down further inside the case. The top of my tube is flush with the housing on the tractor and I can see the top ORing is blown. When I took my snap ring off I noticed it wasnt sitting in a grove at all it was just hugging the tube. My tube is wedged in there pretty good and I’m not sure how to get it out. I’m considering wrapping cloth around the tube and using locking pliers to get tight and peaking it with a hammer. Do you think that would hurt that tube or have any suggestions on getting it out?
The tubes tough and can handle some twisting around. Have seen moisture get in the case and cause it to corrode. Maybe spray some penetration oil. Thanks for watching
My 2610 used to bleed down. After sitting a while it will lift at first but then not lift or drop. After a few minutes it will lift and lower again once or twice, then back to not lifting. So lift is intermittent. Oh and she still bleeds down. Any thoughts?
I would check o-rings for seal. You can try to pack grease around the large service line as it goes into the pump and see if it picks up. If so you need to replace the o-ring within the pump where the tube goes into the pump. Also check the other end for o-ring seal also. Hope it helps thanks for watching.
@@vintagediesel-1 much appreciated thanks!
@@vintagediesel-1 hooked up my drag mower to the remote hookup just to check and make sure pump was good and once i unhooked the hoses all of a sudden my lift works now. Guess something was sticky. Guess i have some parts to put on the shelf for a rainy day now. Planned on rebuilding the top lid but no need for it now.
@@UserFormelyKnownAs_hjkh Excellent. The valve must have been stuck in the open position. Glad to hear you got it worked out. Thanks for watching
Is this comparable to a long 2150 hydraulics for the three point lift?
Yes it should be. Thanks for watching
Having issues ingaging the pto on a ford 340A, grinds a bit when trying to ingage it...was working fine when we bought it and during the testing of brush hog we got tangled in some wire fence wondering if that could of messed up the pto? Also noticed, it would spin when in idle and pto dis-ingaged from watching your video the best option would be to check the inspection port for damage to lever parts or remove shaft first? I'm crossing my fingers we don't have to split it open!
From the description my first guess is clutch. That said I would check the knuckle engagement through the inspection plate. With the tractor off it should engage. If it engages freely when off and you can see the knuckle engaging through the inspection cover access then your going to be splitting the unit. Also pulling the shaft helps so you can inspect the knuckle. Hope that helps.
@@vintagediesel-1 so if the knuckle doesn't engage with the tractor off it could be knuckle and shaft issues...if it does its the pto clutch and it requires splitting the tractor?
@@lgvmobile correct. From what I have seen that is the order.
@@vintagediesel-1 Than you for your advice we are going to look into it soon as we get a chance in the mean time, I'm going to use the loader and some non pto required attachments thanks again
@@lgvmobile Thank you for watching.
How to take the screen the filter out of the hydraulic how to take the filter out of the the Hydra
It inside an is accessible with the 3 point top removed. It's at the bottom of the case. Thanks for watching. Hope it helps
You never did say how you fixed the PTO
Go to the 3 minute mark and I show the shift collar and the shift fork . If the teeth on the collar and the hub and the splines are good on the inside of the shift collar then you are splitting the tractor and replacing the pto clutch. Hope it helps you and thanks for watching
@@vintagediesel-1 thanks
I can repa9
Form