Great video! Just a tip I feel like including for novice climbers; prusiks are very useful and a necessary skill, but you may be tempted to use a long prusik for your foot to slide it easier near your chest. In my opinion, it is best to use a short prusik as he has done because they seem tighten more quickly, where as a long prusik seems to take a little more force to grab the rope. I suppose the force exerted per foot on smaller ropes gives a higher ratio of tension when compared to a longer ropes tension distribution. I’ve been climbing for 29 years, and I hope that was clear…just seems that way to me. I trust someone will tell me if I’m wrong 😂. Again, thanks for the video.
Hello, and thanks for the comment. The number of wraps, the pliability and sheath of the prusik cordage and rope, and the relative diameters of the prusik to the rope determines how hard the prusik tightens and holds. The length of the hanging prusik loop shouldn't effect the grab unless it's too long to exert force on it. I prefer shorter ones just so I can step higher and move up the rope quicker. Let me know if I'm missing something about your explanation. Thanks!
Thank you. I ran the half marathon with one week's notice (took someone else's spot), trained for a total of 9 miles, and finished in the top third overall. Not too bad...until the next day.
Hello. Thank you much for the donation! I always hope my videos are helpful and inspiring and your donation certainly helps to encourage, support new videos, and show my hope is happening. Thanks!
Always wondered this stuff. Can't believe I didn't think of it. That last idea was awsome. I'm terrified of heights so you won't catch me hanging off a cliff. But good to know
Sometimes the simplest stuff that you just don't stop to figure out is the best because you can use it right away and you'll remember it! You can always practice on shorter drops or use on slopes. Thanks for the comment.
We weren't able to time it this year. There was plenty of ice with zero access to open water...then access to a tiny pond-sized area...then well open water everywhere. It seems like in the day we weren't available the temperature soared, it rained, and the wind picked up and the ice disappeared.
Hello. I haven't used a quickie. It looks similar to the shackles on my Hobie 16 sailboat. We use oval and triangular screw links for rescue but these look convenient for personal use. For sure you want to avoid cross loading. You might be referring to the last example and that method does have the potential to cross load of not using the correct knot or if tying around a very narrow tree.
@@AdventuresInReachYep that's the one, I'm a hobbyist at best but I only climb trees, I try to keep my gear as lazy and foolproof as possible. A carabineer isn't foolproof enough for me to use as a canopy anchor. In your application with a large tree its fine, but trees tend to be too small at the top for me to be confident.
Most trees only have tap roots when they are seedlings. Don't side load your carabiner. Do an alpine butterfly knot instead or rappel on double rope around your BFT.
Si utilizas un puño de espeleologia,porque no usas un kroll ventral y la cuerda te va a pasar mejor y mas rapida,y podrás utilizar las dos manos para izarte en el puño.😅
Could you, in theorie, also tie a butterfly knot, put the rope through itself through the loop of the butterfly, and than tie the thin retrieval knot to the butterfly knot as well? And is it safe?
You could, in theory, however that would create a rope on rope scenario which causes more friction and therefore more resistance when pulling and much more wear on the rope at that loop from the butterfly.
Anything that won't break should work. I've used 4mm and paracord before. It just makes it easier to get snagged and caught in cracks as well a harder to pull, but it's lighter to carry so you just have to decide what the priority is.
Hey Matt! Really enjoyed this video. New viewer here - what RTR course did you take?! I recently got into rope rescue and took a course with Reed. Absolutely opened my eyes to a new world.
We booked Reed for a Personal Skills Rescue Workshop that ended up turning into a Team Skills Skills since so many people had been practicing and we cruised through much of the personal skills portion. It was an awesome training. I would love to take more. What about you? What did you take?
@@AdventuresInReach that’s great to hear! I took the tactical wilderness rescue workshop. Volly SAR member, so low angle evacs and hiking with minimal gear are the bread and butter. First time working with any rope smaller than 11mm and I’m not looking back! Ha!
Het Matt, I hope you're having an awesome week. I just have a quick question. What type of cordage are you using for the Purcell Prussik loop? Are you using the PMI Accessory Cord 7mm? Thanks for any advice. I hope you have a great weekend.
Please please please do not do that last method. Canyoneer here, and pulling the entire length of rope around the tree will most likely kill it. For any “ghosting” system, the maximum amount of rope you should be pulling around the tree is 5-10 feet. Much more than that and you will likely damage or kill it. Instead, fiddlestick, CEM, or macrame, would all be preferable and only result in a couple feet of rope being pulled around the tree. For people not comfortable with those methods, take a sling, basket hitch around a tree with carabiners on either end. Tie a tag line to one of the carabiners, rappel down double stranded, pull the rope, then use the tagline to get the sling and carabiners back. Don’t want to carry the weight of a tag line, then set up the basket hitch to have one large carabiner on one side and a small rapide on the other, rappel double stranded, and when pulling the rope, leave a knot in the end. The knot should be small enough to pass through the large carabiner, and get stuck on the small rapide, thus allowing you to pull the rope and sling down. Not all of these methods are appropriate for all situations, so it is good to know several and choose the method that is appropriate under the circumstances. With so many options to ghost without damaging tree, there is no reason that last, highly damaging method should ever be used.
No mention to tie a catastrophe knot or tie the rope to you every body length when ascending with prussiks. I've seen a beginner grab the top prussik to pull up only to release it and have it hit the lower prussik. The only thing stopping the person from hitting the ground is the upper prussik melted in 5' but the second point of attachment was a VT prussik made of Technora which didn't melt and grabbed hard to stop the person . Also, only 1 point of attachment on ascending. Not the best practice for teaching
Here's a video I did to help avoid that scenario: ua-cam.com/video/bUuB0rLnBdQ/v-deo.html When training with search and rescue we use prusiks and a second line with either a second prusik or a Petzl ASAP. Anyone not in rescue is going to have one rope. I could have a second attachment aside from the foot loop and too much redundancy and complication is also researched to be a danger. The catastrophe knot is a good idea for beginners. Thanks for the comment.
@@AdventuresInReach Interesting that 2 points of attachment is too much redundancy. Any instructor or seasoned professional would strongly disagree. Not just for beginners....things happen. People are watching your videos and most likely duplicating the instruction without the context or explanation of risk. We all have taken short cuts while evaluating the risk. The discussion of that choice is not presented to the audience.
Ha. This is a funny comment to me. I try to project since I more often see comments on channels about the volume being too low. Maybe you also have exceptional hearing. I'll keep that in mind in future videos. Thanks for watching.
In the last “retrieve” method make sure your weighted end loads the spine of the carabiner. Loading the gate side can cause the gate to get rolled open.
I have no ideas why, but I really want to learn how to do all this. I don't even like heights, but im always into survival stuff and knowing how to do things like this. Already ordered a bunch of equipment, so now I'm into it.. Also I work for a home building company and I want to get over the fear of heights so i can do the sheeting on the roofs we do. I always wonder how much it would suck to fall and get stopped by one of those harness rigs that comes in a bucket.
I'm guessing you will become more comfortable with heights as you learn and practice. In this video I talk about starting small with slight slopes, stairs, porches, etc. and working up. ua-cam.com/video/RVoze1IpdVI/v-deo.html If you get to the point of practicing in vertical settings, a roof with a rope backup would likely feel pretty comfortable. I guess the why doesn't matter so much if you like it and are interested. It's all a learning experience that is bound to lead somewhere. The harness rigs should be paired with a shock absorbing fall protection lanyard. Those have folds in the webbing that are sewn together and manufactured to rip and give away at a specific kilonewton rating to avoid damaging the body. In that case you don't have the space to fall onto a stretchy dynamic rope, but they are in theory supposed to accomplish the same slowed fall.
It would work, however, soft on soft is not the best practice and pulling the rope through would likely damage the loop from the friction. I would recommend the carabiner if doing around a bigger anchor, or a locking ringing its a smaller anchor where the carabiner could be weighted at an angle or sideways.
The last method , if you did not have a small rope to retrieve and “if” Your rope was long enough. You can use this method . Wrap the rope around the back side of the tree . Both ends of the rope need to be on the ground where you are repelling . tie a butterfly knot on the left side rope near the tree, send the right side end of the rope through the butter fly knot and send it back down to the ground . Pull tight on the right side . Repel down the right side . Once on the ground , pull on the left rope to retrieve your rope. Do not repel down the wrong side of the rope bc you will hit the ground. Hope this makes sense.
Great and thorough video. Any thoughts on using a 6mm tag line? I like the weight of that paracord line but i can always rap off of the 6mm in an emergency and I don't worry about it getting cut easily on spicy rocks
In terms of a tag line the diameter isn't crucial. If you want to use that tag line for rappelling in a pinch then I would base it on the weight rating of that cordage. NFPA uses a 15:1 ratio, front country rescue a 12:1, and backcountry rescue a 10:1. Some experienced climbers use much less. For myself I choose a 10:1 ratio so multiply your weight by 10 and that's the rating that cordage should have if you might rely on it for a rappel. Luckily that's not a difficult number to reach with most climbing gear.
You got it Brad. 6mm to 8mm tag lines are ideal IMO. That's pretty standard because of the reasons you mentioned plus they don't hurt your hands or stretch as much if there's a lot of resistance when pulling the rope.
Definitely going to use this method to do some pull down trips where you commit fully and go all the way through the mountain and find another exit. Thanks!
Love the last one. So simple and safe.
That's my favorite too. Thanks for the comment.
Loved 😍 that last retrieval technique 🎉
Thank you. It's my favorite and works pretty slick.
Another GREAT video!!! The information and experience you provide in your videos is priceless. Thank you
I appreciate that!
Great video! Just a tip I feel like including for novice climbers; prusiks are very useful and a necessary skill, but you may be tempted to use a long prusik for your foot to slide it easier near your chest. In my opinion, it is best to use a short prusik as he has done because they seem tighten more quickly, where as a long prusik seems to take a little more force to grab the rope. I suppose the force exerted per foot on smaller ropes gives a higher ratio of tension when compared to a longer ropes tension distribution. I’ve been climbing for 29 years, and I hope that was clear…just seems that way to me. I trust someone will tell me if I’m wrong 😂. Again, thanks for the video.
Hello, and thanks for the comment. The number of wraps, the pliability and sheath of the prusik cordage and rope, and the relative diameters of the prusik to the rope determines how hard the prusik tightens and holds. The length of the hanging prusik loop shouldn't effect the grab unless it's too long to exert force on it. I prefer shorter ones just so I can step higher and move up the rope quicker. Let me know if I'm missing something about your explanation. Thanks!
Love the excitement! Great presentation. Solid information given in a very fun way!!
Thanks so much!
Love the shirt! Save the boundary waters!
Thank you. I ran the half marathon with one week's notice (took someone else's spot), trained for a total of 9 miles, and finished in the top third overall. Not too bad...until the next day.
Yes brotha
Thanks for watching !
Thanks!
Hello. Thank you much for the donation! I always hope my videos are helpful and inspiring and your donation certainly helps to encourage, support new videos, and show my hope is happening. Thanks!
Always wondered this stuff. Can't believe I didn't think of it. That last idea was awsome. I'm terrified of heights so you won't catch me hanging off a cliff. But good to know
Sometimes the simplest stuff that you just don't stop to figure out is the best because you can use it right away and you'll remember it! You can always practice on shorter drops or use on slopes. Thanks for the comment.
It makes me want to try it. Not in actual rock climbing, but in safer practice areas.
Almost Spring! Looking forward to some more sailing adventures!
More to come! We are planning to go on another multi day sail. I'm hoping I can also time it to sail around the ice during breakup.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🎉
We weren't able to time it this year. There was plenty of ice with zero access to open water...then access to a tiny pond-sized area...then well open water everywhere. It seems like in the day we weren't available the temperature soared, it rained, and the wind picked up and the ice disappeared.
That was really really helpful, thanks.
You're welcome. I hope all my videos are either helpful or inspiring. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The last method is brilliant, as usual!
Thank you Jonathan! I hope that helps.
Thank you 😊
You are certainly welcome. I hope that helps.
@@AdventuresInReach New to the sport. Learning like crazy!
For the last method, you should really use a locking ring not a carabiner since it can get sideloaded
Yes. If it's around a small diameter anchor a locking ring would be best. I'll mention that next time this comes up. Thanks.
Im not sure if you familiar with it but a quickie (quick shackle) is popular with the arborist community as side loading a carabineer is frowned upon.
Hello. I haven't used a quickie. It looks similar to the shackles on my Hobie 16 sailboat. We use oval and triangular screw links for rescue but these look convenient for personal use. For sure you want to avoid cross loading. You might be referring to the last example and that method does have the potential to cross load of not using the correct knot or if tying around a very narrow tree.
@@AdventuresInReachYep that's the one, I'm a hobbyist at best but I only climb trees, I try to keep my gear as lazy and foolproof as possible. A carabineer isn't foolproof enough for me to use as a canopy anchor. In your application with a large tree its fine, but trees tend to be too small at the top for me to be confident.
Most trees only have tap roots when they are seedlings. Don't side load your carabiner. Do an alpine butterfly knot instead or rappel on double rope around your BFT.
Demo the fiddlestick method of retrievable rappel rope.
Great stuff! For the last option, how about a maillon rapide instead of a carabiner ? Less worry of cross-loading. Maybe a delta shape 7-8mm steel MR?
I agree that would probably be ideal. The knot I showed is to avoid cross loading, but links are even better.
@@AdventuresInReach thank you! I’m a beginner and trying to learn the best practices. All this is helping tremendously
Found my answer at 14min
Perfect. Just pull the little line...
Do the rope around the tree an rappel down on two strands. Then you pull the rope and you are ready to go. Or Not?
Yes. That does work. It just has the potential to damage the tree. It's the same idea as the first one I showed with bolted rappel anchors.
@@AdventuresInReach okay, thx!
But in an emergency it’s ok I think
Si utilizas un puño de espeleologia,porque no usas un kroll ventral y la cuerda te va a pasar mejor y mas rapida,y podrás utilizar las dos manos para izarte en el puño.😅
Could you, in theorie, also tie a butterfly knot, put the rope through itself through the loop of the butterfly, and than tie the thin retrieval knot to the butterfly knot as well? And is it safe?
You could, in theory, however that would create a rope on rope scenario which causes more friction and therefore more resistance when pulling and much more wear on the rope at that loop from the butterfly.
Would a 4mil be good for the last method?
Anything that won't break should work. I've used 4mm and paracord before. It just makes it easier to get snagged and caught in cracks as well a harder to pull, but it's lighter to carry so you just have to decide what the priority is.
Hey Matt! Really enjoyed this video.
New viewer here - what RTR course did you take?! I recently got into rope rescue and took a course with Reed. Absolutely opened my eyes to a new world.
We booked Reed for a Personal Skills Rescue Workshop that ended up turning into a Team Skills Skills since so many people had been practicing and we cruised through much of the personal skills portion. It was an awesome training. I would love to take more. What about you? What did you take?
@@AdventuresInReach that’s great to hear! I took the tactical wilderness rescue workshop. Volly SAR member, so low angle evacs and hiking with minimal gear are the bread and butter. First time working with any rope smaller than 11mm and I’m not looking back! Ha!
Het Matt, I hope you're having an awesome week. I just have a quick question. What type of cordage are you using for the Purcell Prussik loop? Are you using the PMI Accessory Cord 7mm? Thanks for any advice. I hope you have a great weekend.
Hello William. I do have mostly PMI accessory cord. I do use 7mm with my 10.5mm / 7/16 inch ropes.
Thank you so much Matt for taking the time to answer my question, it helps a lot.
❤😊❤
Thanks for watching.
Please please please do not do that last method. Canyoneer here, and pulling the entire length of rope around the tree will most likely kill it. For any “ghosting” system, the maximum amount of rope you should be pulling around the tree is 5-10 feet. Much more than that and you will likely damage or kill it.
Instead, fiddlestick, CEM, or macrame, would all be preferable and only result in a couple feet of rope being pulled around the tree.
For people not comfortable with those methods, take a sling, basket hitch around a tree with carabiners on either end. Tie a tag line to one of the carabiners, rappel down double stranded, pull the rope, then use the tagline to get the sling and carabiners back. Don’t want to carry the weight of a tag line, then set up the basket hitch to have one large carabiner on one side and a small rapide on the other, rappel double stranded, and when pulling the rope, leave a knot in the end. The knot should be small enough to pass through the large carabiner, and get stuck on the small rapide, thus allowing you to pull the rope and sling down.
Not all of these methods are appropriate for all situations, so it is good to know several and choose the method that is appropriate under the circumstances.
With so many options to ghost without damaging tree, there is no reason that last, highly damaging method should ever be used.
No mention to tie a catastrophe knot or tie the rope to you every body length when ascending with prussiks. I've seen a beginner grab the top prussik to pull up only to release it and have it hit the lower prussik. The only thing stopping the person from hitting the ground is the upper prussik melted in 5' but the second point of attachment was a VT prussik made of Technora which didn't melt and grabbed hard to stop the person .
Also, only 1 point of attachment on ascending. Not the best practice for teaching
Here's a video I did to help avoid that scenario: ua-cam.com/video/bUuB0rLnBdQ/v-deo.html When training with search and rescue we use prusiks and a second line with either a second prusik or a Petzl ASAP. Anyone not in rescue is going to have one rope. I could have a second attachment aside from the foot loop and too much redundancy and complication is also researched to be a danger. The catastrophe knot is a good idea for beginners. Thanks for the comment.
@@AdventuresInReach Interesting that 2 points of attachment is too much redundancy. Any instructor or seasoned professional would strongly disagree. Not just for beginners....things happen. People are watching your videos and most likely duplicating the instruction without the context or explanation of risk. We all have taken short cuts while evaluating the risk. The discussion of that choice is not presented to the audience.
Why are you yelling?
I get excited about knots and ropes I guess. Thanks for watching.
This is to be passionate
No wonder most of the video is filmed waist up
Karen alert
Do you have problems with your hearing? I don't. Screeming like that man, WTF.
Ha. This is a funny comment to me. I try to project since I more often see comments on channels about the volume being too low. Maybe you also have exceptional hearing. I'll keep that in mind in future videos. Thanks for watching.
I bet bro shits granola…silly beta
In the last “retrieve” method make sure your weighted end loads the spine of the carabiner. Loading the gate side can cause the gate to get rolled open.
Absolutely. Always weight the spine!
I have no ideas why, but I really want to learn how to do all this. I don't even like heights, but im always into survival stuff and knowing how to do things like this. Already ordered a bunch of equipment, so now I'm into it.. Also I work for a home building company and I want to get over the fear of heights so i can do the sheeting on the roofs we do. I always wonder how much it would suck to fall and get stopped by one of those harness rigs that comes in a bucket.
I'm guessing you will become more comfortable with heights as you learn and practice. In this video I talk about starting small with slight slopes, stairs, porches, etc. and working up. ua-cam.com/video/RVoze1IpdVI/v-deo.html If you get to the point of practicing in vertical settings, a roof with a rope backup would likely feel pretty comfortable. I guess the why doesn't matter so much if you like it and are interested. It's all a learning experience that is bound to lead somewhere. The harness rigs should be paired with a shock absorbing fall protection lanyard. Those have folds in the webbing that are sewn together and manufactured to rip and give away at a specific kilonewton rating to avoid damaging the body. In that case you don't have the space to fall onto a stretchy dynamic rope, but they are in theory supposed to accomplish the same slowed fall.
I saw a video where someone replaced the carabiner in the last method with a butterfly knot. What do you think about that? 😊
It would work, however, soft on soft is not the best practice and pulling the rope through would likely damage the loop from the friction. I would recommend the carabiner if doing around a bigger anchor, or a locking ringing its a smaller anchor where the carabiner could be weighted at an angle or sideways.
The last method , if you did not have a small rope to retrieve and “if”
Your rope was long enough. You can use this method .
Wrap the rope around the back side of the tree . Both ends of the rope need to be on the ground where you are repelling .
tie a butterfly knot on the left side rope near the tree, send the right side end of the rope through the butter fly knot and send it back down to the ground . Pull tight on the right side . Repel down the right side . Once on the ground , pull on the left rope to retrieve your rope. Do not repel down the wrong side of the rope bc you will hit the ground.
Hope this makes sense.
I like that as it's very simple to understand, learn, and use. Thanks for that tip.
Last demo was perfect!!
That's my favorite!
Great and thorough video. Any thoughts on using a 6mm tag line? I like the weight of that paracord line but i can always rap off of the 6mm in an emergency and I don't worry about it getting cut easily on spicy rocks
In terms of a tag line the diameter isn't crucial. If you want to use that tag line for rappelling in a pinch then I would base it on the weight rating of that cordage. NFPA uses a 15:1 ratio, front country rescue a 12:1, and backcountry rescue a 10:1. Some experienced climbers use much less. For myself I choose a 10:1 ratio so multiply your weight by 10 and that's the rating that cordage should have if you might rely on it for a rappel. Luckily that's not a difficult number to reach with most climbing gear.
You got it Brad. 6mm to 8mm tag lines are ideal IMO. That's pretty standard because of the reasons you mentioned plus they don't hurt your hands or stretch as much if there's a lot of resistance when pulling the rope.
Definitely going to use this method to do some pull down trips where you commit fully and go all the way through the mountain and find another exit. Thanks!
Excellent video thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching and commenting!
I learned a lot. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Always fun to watch!
Thanks for the comment Kevin!