Two things, even for beginners......One: Always use 2 carabiners at your masterpoint with the gates opposite and opposed....and....two: don't throw your rope down while yelling "rope". Call out "rope", wait a few seconds, and then throw the rope. Yelling rope at the same time as your are throwing it, may cause someone below you to look up into a bundle of rope crashing into their face and not have enough time to see it coming in order to get out of the way
My rope rescue training has taught me to base redundancy decisions on math. The carabiner is about the same KN rating as the rope, which means they would fail at the same time...or actually a knot would fail first... I learned to have gates opposite and opposed when using nonlocking carabiners, which still makes a ton of sense no matter what the ratings are. It could be helpful for beginners to use more gear when starting, but I also prefer people to learn, go with others, look at the math of the system, and be knowledgeable and confident before setting up a system themselves. That's a good point about yelling "rope" and pausing, which is what I normally do. However, with trying to condense videos, I sometimes go a little quicker. A few seconds wouldn't have hurt though. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video. Your helmet sort of popped out at me. Other than agency search-and-rescue videos (by municipal fire departments, etc.), you're the first person I've seen teaching rappelling while wearing a helmet. That alone lends a lot of credibility to your videos, relative to people teaching climbing safety while NOT wearing a helmet.
I appreciate you pointing that out. I'm certainly an advocate of training how you will do in for real. You're a lot less likely to forget steps that way. Thank you for watching!
My first rappel happened while I was in the Army, stationed at Ft Hood, TX. It was a 30' - 40' cliff. That was a good first exposure to rappelling. The Army then sent me to an introduction course on Mountaineering and Rappelling on Cheju Island, South Korea where the final test was an Australian-style rappel just over 300'. Next was Air Assault School and rappelling out of a helicopter hovering at appx 100'. After all that, I attended a training course and became a Certified Rappel Master for the Army. Fun times! I haven't been rappelling since I got out of the Army, but I've recently developed a strong desire to start again. Your video helped remind me of some of the basics I need to pay attention to. Thank you!
That all sounds like some awesome experiences! If you recall some skills from your training that you think I should share, feel free to let me know. That would be fun to start again and rediscover some of those skills and thrills. I'd be curious to know how it goes.
I used to repel in the fire department but our maximum we repelled was only around 5 to 6 stories. I retired from the fire service and started volunteering with our local fire department, been wanting to get back familiar with higher angle rescues. Great video to re-start the repelling and rescue juices flowing!
5-6 stories is high for many people. Does your current fire department do high angle rescue? I have a playlist called "Beginner Rappelling and Knots" if you'd like to check out more. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
I just got back from a trip where my first rappel experience ever was off 90' vertical cliff with no experience. The guides were experienced climbers, and I trusted their ability to tie everything off and keep me safe. Needless to say, I loved it and want to do it again. It's a whole different adventure when you're securing yourself properly and trusting you did it properly! Thanks for the video!
Awesome. That's great that you went for the first time. It certainly is a different experience trusting your own, but just remember that it's a skill that can be learned. Watch others, learn the basics, make sure you have appropriate rated gear, and start by only setting up where you can use anchors you're confident with.
Nice video. I've went repelling once in my life & loved it, but didn't follow up on taking it any further. Been thinking about it again lately to take my hiking/camping trips to the next level. Thanks for the simple & straightforward information for beginners. Inspiring!! Definitely going to check your other videos.
Thank you. I'm excited that you are inspired by them. Check out my hammock camping video too. That may really give you something to work towards. How are you thinking of combining rappelling and hiking/camping? I'm just imagining you bushwacking and rappeling down clifs on your way to a backcountry campsite.
Thanks for the overview. I was introduced years ago and have kept up with some of the knots and it’s nice seeing the way you teach. Just need to find a spot I would feel comfortable at
--If you want a shortcut to reliable gear, then check the links in the description! --Join my email list and get a free Rappelling Gear List--link in description. --Please consider liking and subscribing! --Check out this "Rappelling and Knots" playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
I'm glad you enjoyed it. There's a rappelling playlist and several knot videos on my channel as well, in case you haven't found them and are looking for more.
Thanks for sharing. I like the use of the Munter hitch for rappelling because it’s great to improvise in case you dropped your belay device. Also you should talk about edge safety while setting up the rappel (apologies if I missed you say that).
Agreed. I like knowing/teaching the foundational skills because that's what usually works and gets you out of a bind. I don't believe I mentioned edge safety, but that's a good reminder. It's hard to try fitting everything into a short video.
I feel like I’m being mandela effected….the army teaches a method of rappelling where you just wrap the rope around the spine of a carabiner. The Munter hitch is more cumbersome in every way…why is that what’s taught in the civilian world?
The basics and beginner friendly way of teaching rapelling, would be with a proper belay or rapelling device. Rapelling with the munter hitch is more of a backup/emergency method in case you just lost your belay device down the mountain. While it's perfetcly ok with the munter hitch to take your brake hand above the "device" for more friction, it can be quite straining, and for beginners be confusing, as this is not something you would or should ever do on a normal rapell. The prusik or "third hand" as we like to call it should be fitted below the rapell device, and only serve as a backup holding the rope, not the entire bodyweight (even though it is capable of such). So, I would call this an advanced rapelling technique, which should only be used in cases where you lack the proper equipment.
Hello. Thanks for your comment. I agree that a rappel device is easier to learn. I've also had the repeated experience of beginners I've taught being thankful for learning the most basic method to see the principles (like turns creating friction) in effect, and that they don't need much "stuff" to make the experience happen. There's certainly a great deal of value in learning the elemental skills and techniques that can be relied on no matter what the situation. That being said, I am recommending in this video that people new to rappelling also start on a hill, or off their porch, etc. so it's much more approachable and lower risk. As for the prussik, I've seen it taught both ways depending on the specific situation. Many attach the prussik to a leg loop when below the device, which I'm not a fan of. I also seldom say "only" or "never" as there are often exceptions and I'd rather not have beginners convinced they can't do it. At the same time, I recommend that beginners are best served with in person training.
@Man Dendon It's really not any cheaper than buying a rapell or belay device. You get a brand new rapell/belay device for $14-20 depending on type, the rest of the equipment needed is the same. Rapelling with a proper device is both smoother, easier, and in most cases safer. People caving, mountaineering etc. use the same equipment, or more specialized(and sometimes more expensive) equipment where there is a need for rapelling. No matter what reason you have for rapelling, using equipment designed for rapelling will ALWAYS be better, and easier, than using makeshift solutions. And if it's to protect yourself in steep hills hiking, $14 is a small price to pay. If you really want to save money, it is possible to rapell with only a rope and your body. Now don't get me wrong, this is a good technique to know if you ever lose your rapell/belay device, during a hike, or when you're about to rapell from mt st helens.
You bet! I'm glad you liked it. Feel free to let me know if you have requests. You might be interested in checking out my knots and rappelling playlist.
I would definitely NOT use a Munter hitch for regular rappelling. It kinks the rope in a horrible way, so I would use it only for emergencies if there is no other option available. Using an ATC is simpler, more efficient, and doesn't add significantly to the overall cost of the equipment.
Yes. It does twist the rope and ATC's are affordable. I like to teach the basics so people feel confident about being able to deal with those what-if situations like dropping a piece of gear. In this video I'm also mainly addressing people who are starting and going off shorted cliffs where they won't experience much twisting. I posted another video where I taught a random girl to rappel for her first time and I had her use an ATC: ua-cam.com/video/FA88sv9M_fc/v-deo.html
Great video, Very informative. When setting up your anchor, what size and length of rope do you use, and is that also dynamic? Not sure what’s best to use or buy for setting up anchors for rappelling. Thanks
One of the very minimalistic ways I've shown is to build anchors with a 30' piece of 7 or 8mm cordage. Rated cordage should be static. You really don't want to use dynamic for anchors since they would be more likely to move from where you initially tie them, and be less abrasion resistant--especially since anchors are often around rocks. There is not one method to set up an anchor unless you climb or rappel at the same site each outing. I generally carry my 30' piece of cordage as well as an assortment of webbing lengths--usually an 8, 15, 25, and 40 foot. I also have some edge protection and carabiners. I would recommend starting with either cordage (tying figure 8's) or webbing (tying overhands on a bights and water knots). Learn a few methods using those supplies so you are confident and efficient. You'll also want some autolocking carabiners. I would first start with learning the knots and practicing a few setups and "rappels" somewhere safer at first. Feel free to ask questions as you go.
You bet. There's more where that came from on my rappelling and knots playlist, and feel free to let me know if there's something you'd like to see. Have you rappelled before?
Nice. It is hard at first, but like anything else you do get used to it...mostly. Do you still work on water towers? I have been watching as our town's (Ely, MN) water tower is painted and thinking it looks like fun.
@@AdventuresInReach not any longer ,it was a riot ,you would not believe the things we used to do back in the 80s now anything you do is scrutinized and if you get caught going down your rope falls hand over hand with your legs wrapped around ropes you will be fined or if you slide down the sway rods that is also a NoNo we only climbed up not down and you kept your adrenalin going all day long to get you through the days it was fun a true adventure. True adventures are hard to come by.
Ha, that sounds fun. Maybe a bit risky, but some things once you acquire the skill and strength, it can be pretty safe. By true adventure do you mean dangerous things that you are allowed to do? I certainly agree it's harder, and there's also a lot out there. I like to think that improving safely allows people to go further.
My friends and I have this super steep area in our trail in the woods we like to explore so I've been cramming with as much info as possible when it comes to rappelling with only rope
Only rope works, but it certainly isn't comfortable. If you're interested I have many more related videos in this playlist: Beginner Rappelling and Knots: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
@@jaydenorcutt5677 I have been binge watching different videos talking about different hitches and ways of rappelling with a super 8 or a carabiner. I have seen things saying to be instructed by a professional but I think that is if someone is going to rappel on a mountain I mean obviously I am not going to do that first. I mainly want to try it out because it seems very technical and cool. Having to take a class on how to rappel makes it way less easy to get into and kind of turns me off to the idea.
You're welcome. I'm glad it was useful. If you want to ascend the rope, there are several methods you can use. In this video link, at about 2:37, I show several methods to do just that. See you over there. ua-cam.com/video/w9nJuQ2tF7w/v-deo.html
I got rapel gear to go off what used to be a railroad bridge over a creek in my city, its now a public bridge that go built right on top minus the rails. I usually magnet fosh in the creek and have found ww2 munitions, but wanted this to get cooser to the water
That sounds fun. Obviously be careful, and make sure you know how to ascent the rope, and have a comfortable harness (ideally with a seat) so you don't cut off circulation.
@@AdventuresInReach lol i didnt fully know what i was doing so i stopped. I tested it enough so ik the harness and rope is good but didnt full rapel for not fully knowing how, plus how hard it is to pull myself back up and the rope was tangling cause idk why chinese items suck lol
I see your Over the Edge shirt. I will be doing one at Mohegan Sun in September. Have never done any rappelling before and would appreciate any tips to physically and mentally prepare. I’m a 67 year old female in decent shape with a healthy fear of heights. Most concerned about that first step off.
First, thanks for raising money for whatever the nonprofit is...and remember you worked hard to have the chance to rappel off a building! I included a link below for my Beginner Rappelling playlist. Rappelling is not very physically demanding--just walking backwards and hand grip. Mentally there's the rational and irrational parts if your brain to deal with. Rationally you can consider similar things you've done like climbing a tree, swinging, etc., know the strengths of the equipment like the ropes that are rated to about 9,000 pounds. The lead staff are highly trained, inspect the system every time before someone goes over... They also use a tripod on top that gets your weight on the rope before you go over the edge-unlike with traditional rappelling that can make it feel more concerning. They also use 2 ropes and one has a seat belt like device that brakes if you go too fast. That means you could literally just let go and stop a few feet later. Irrationally, remember that a fear of heights and falling is healthy so embrace it and keep moving, and do some deep breathing. I'd love to hear how it goes! Beginner Rappelling and Knots: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
You are certainly welcome. I've received my rope rescue training from my local Search and Rescue crew as well as through Ropes That Rescue, which is owned by Reed Thorne, who's an internationally renowned rope rescue expert. I would highly recommend traveling to join one of their personal and team rescue core classes. Before that I would highly suggest learning the figure 8 family and bowline family of knots as well as some other basics. Unless it's a pre-set system, knots are the foundation to all things rope rescue. I would also suggest getting familiar with the ratings of different static rope diameters, slings, cordage, webbing, carabiners, etc.
This depends on the situation, gear, etc. If it's for fun you can simply set up your anchor, rappel down then either hike, rock climb, or use ascenders or prussiks to climb the rope back up. If you are rappelling off a climb site there are often rappel stations so you can feed your rope through the chains, keep the center at the top and rappel down both ends, then just pull your rope down after you. This same thing can be done with a huge, reliable tree (that's a whole topic on its own). Sometimes you can use a sling and rappel ring and leave it at the top. Another method if needing to do a rappel that's almost as long as your rope is to keep one end clipped around the rope and have a tag line to pull it down with later. This video shows how to do this (practicing in a tree): ua-cam.com/video/JX6wYVn6-Fg/v-deo.html
Well--no you don't always need two anchors. However, you must be able to accurately assess a single anchor to call it "bomber" in that the majority of experienced people (climbers/rescuers) would agree that the anchor would not fail. A huge rock with a sling around it and not on a slope or on wet ground, or a huge tree in good soil (not on ledgerock, etc.) with a taproot can be a bomber anchor. The same can be said for some man made anchors such as a high voltage power pole. The proper knots, equipment (webbing, rope, carabiners, etc.) must be all part of the system. Just remember that you don't need to be over-redundant yet redundancy is part of a safe system.
I always fo with the reputable companies (Petzl, Black Diamond, Mammut, Metolius, Edelrid, Rock Exotica...). All the climbing stores or outdoor stores with climb gear in the US I've seen selling only quality brands as listed. If you select name brands, I think it's less about quality and more about selecting the right gear for the application.
Good question. For these I just hiked back up. Sometimes I climb up the rope with prussiks or an ascender and prussiks. I've also just doubled the rope around a bomber tree and pulled it down. Some people use a Ghost knot, but I would use that with extreme caution or avoid it. Another option when using a single line is to loop the end around the bomber anchor and clip into itself with a carabiner. You then tie a smaller line (like paracord) to the carabiner to pull the rope down later. Let me know if you have more questions.
That's correct. A figure 8 follow through at each end around the trees then a double loop figure 8 at the apex to provide redundancy by isolating the strands coming from each tree.
It may be. The reason I used a double loop figure 8 was because I was tying the anchor with cordage and wanted to double the strength of the loop that I clipped my rope into.
I have plans to make a video about how to retrieve the rappel line. There are multiple methods depending on how it's anchored and rigged. I'm hoping to get footage this weekend, although I'll also be editing footage from a recent sailing trip. Keep an eye out and consider turning on notifications if you haven't already.
Agreed. Fingers and friction devices don't mix. I'm trying to recall if my fingers got close since you are referencing that. It's sometimes harder to manage when filming at the same time. Thanks for the comment!
That decision all comes down to the math of the system and what type of carabiners you are using. Many years ago when more people used nonlocking carabiners for the anchor points, the systems did require opposite and apposed carabiners to avoid them opening at the same time. NFPA calls for a 15:1 safety rating whereas backcountry rope rescue calls for 10:1. Although some climbers go less than that, I follow the 10:1 rule and therefore base my math on that. So if a carabiner has a 23kn (225 lbs per kn) rating (225 lbs x 23 = 5,175lbs) then you divide 5,175 lbs by 10 (517) and that's the safe load it can support. As a sub-200 pound person, that single carabiner is actually overkill and adding a second may not hurt, but can lead to what Reed Thorne from Ropes That Rescue refers to as redunditis (making the system overly redundant and therefore more complicated, more difficult to understand and evaluate, and therefore has the potential to be less safe. So, in the end, I would say it isn't necessarily wrong to have 2 carabiners, although it may be unnecessary.
Thank you for doing this but, I have a silly question/comment: The "trust" in this - for me - is not the carabiner's, or the gear, or the knots etc... It's the rope rubbing on the rock or something like that. Why do almost NONE of these YT channels talk of ways to protect the rope from rubbing? What do you do with it? What protects it? I fear being half way down a slope and POOF my rope snaps and off I go!! LOL
If I understand correctly what you are asking--yes you can fall if someone is on belay. It's dependent upon the anchors, if the belayer is attentive and using good techniques, etc. A Swiss seat is perfectly acceptable as long as it's tied correctly, tight, and over the hips. They just aren't as comfortable. Let me know whether or not I answered your questions. Thanks.
@@AdventuresInReach yea that answered my questions, thank you. One more real quick, would the fall be to slow to be fatal if the belayer caught em in time
If the belayer caught the climber as intended then they wouldn't hit the ground. If toproping, then the climber should only fall a couple feet at most. If lead climbing (sport/trad) then they may fall twice the height that they climbed above their last anchor, plus the length that the rope stretches. Dynamic ropes are intended to stretch and slowly absorb the shock so that falls do not injure the climber. That being said, the rope, effective anchors, correct belay techniques, appropriate equipment, helmet, fitted harness, the rock itself, etc all factors in to determine injury or death when falling. Rock climbing is inherently risky (much less so if trained) and I certainly recommend some in person training and starting slow.
@@AdventuresInReach awesome thanks man, im not gona rock climb im terrified of heights lol but i do have to go down a rappel tower for basic training and i wana mitigate my fears before i get there, your answer helped a lot i feel better now thank you
You're certainly welcome. Feel free to ask if you have more questions. A rappel tower has a lot less variables with no rock to fall, no sharp surfaces to wear rope, and it's an engineered structure. That scenario may actually have a lot higher perceived risk than actual risk.
There are several ways to do this... My demos in this video were single strand and intended to be uncomplicated. I therefore had to hike back up to get my rope. You can use a look of rope around a "bomber" anchor by rappelling down both strands then simply pulling one side. With set rock climbing routes this is the method used and there are generally rappel stations with chains and quick links to thread your rope through. You can also rappel on a single line that's clipped to itself and a small cordage retrieval line tied to the carabiner. I show that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/JX6wYVn6-Fg/v-deo.html There is also something called a ghost knot that can be untied from below--but I do not recommend this unless you are experienced, try it in a safe place first, and are confident that you are doing it correct.
@@AdventuresInReach thanks! so i'm assuming a "bomber" anchor is a permeant anchor in a rock or similar. how would you keep the one end of the rope from sliding through the anchor ? or are you holding both ropes at the same same time?
A bomber anchor is one that a whole group of knowledgeable people would agree would never fail. Obviously, "never" is tricky, but you get the point. A 150 year old cedar tree (deep root system) growing on decent soil (not ledgerock); a huge bolder that's not on the side of a hill; a structurally sound fire tower; or, yes, a pair of set bolts in good shape... You are also correct that you would double up the rope so the center goes around/through the anchor and you rappel down both ends at the same time. This is generally done with an ATC-type device.
That answer depends how you set up the rappel. Some rappel then climb their rope just as a way to practice and have fun. Otherwise, there are several ways to retrieve gear, and some people do leave minimal gear behind or use rappel anchors that are permanently bolted into the rock. I'm actually working on a video to address how to retrieve gear.
That partly depends on how long of a rappel you want to do, if you have other activities that you would also want to use the gear for, and which type of gear you want (ATC vs GriGri, and Cordage for a prussik vs an autoblock). I would say that you can get all of the basics for about $200 USD. There are links in the video description if you want to see some of my recommendations. Let me know if you have any other questions...and happy rappelling.
Gracias por el comentario. Echa un vistazo a esta lista de reproduccion para conocer las habilidades. ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
My first time rappelling was in SoCal when I was in the military back in the '70s with some Marines that I knew from Camp Pendleton. They took me to one of the cliffs overlooking the ocean at Torrey Pines and we rappelled down to the beach and then hiked back up along the trail, followed by lots of beer and gawking at the women on Blacks Beach... Best I remember it was around 300 ft from the top of the cliffs to the beach... Quite the "beginner" rappel, eh? Quite the adrenaline rush... You're not quite accurate on your comparison of "rated" climbing rope vs what might appear to be the same rope from a hardware store. Climbing rope's rating is going to be basically it's minimum tested break strength (minimum breaking load) during multiple tests, perhaps minus a slight amount for "just in case". The rating on your hardware store rope is going to be a "working load". Working load is based on some fraction of its ultimate break strength -- it may be 1/3rd (3:1 safety factor) or it may be 1/10th (10:1 safety factor). The problem is that you don't know what fraction the manufacturer uses in determining this safety factor. The manufacturer will attempt to cover his ass by declaring on the packaging something like "not intended for human loads or overhead lifting". Let's say that you have some of the hardware store rope and it is "rated" for 240 lbs. Depending upon the safety factor that they used, it *might* be safe enough for rappels or it might not. The problem is that you just don't know. Maybe they used a 10:1 safety factor, maybe just a 3:1... And by saying that it is not intended for human loads or overhead lifting, they can probably get around any regulations where there might be a mandated safety factor. The problem is, YOU JUST DON'T KNOW... Harbor Freight has a 3/8" rope that looks to be of the kernmantle style and it has a "maximum working load" rating of 600 lbs. Home Depot has a similar rope with that has a "working load limit" of 244 lbs. Are they that different or are they probably the same rope with one having a 5:1 safety factor and the other having a 2:1? Or maybe it is 10:1 and 4:1? WE JUST DON'T KNOW... So, would I use the Harbor Freight rope to rappel down a cliff where a failure would result in my death? Nawh, I don't think so... Maybe in my younger days, but then again, I did a lot of stupid things back then and luckily Darwin was asleep on the job. Would I use it as a safety rope when I needed to work on the roof of my house and it was a bit steeper than I would prefer without a rope? Yeah, I would and I **have** used it for that. The difference is that in one situation, if it fails, it would kill me and in the other if it fails, I'm just going to experience some pain of falling off a 1-story roof. I've also used it as a safety rope while working in a tree cutting limbs, but I might have doubled it at that point. The tree was not particularly tall, so a fall would most likely mean pain instead of death. You pay your money and you take your chances...
That is quite the way to start for a beginner! I love it. I started by building a climbing wall on the side of my family's barn, then just reading some books to learn how to do it. Not the safest, but I"ve since had quite a bit more extensive training. You make some good points. I have to decide what to include in the videos and I certainly don't want to mislead or confuse anyone about which rope during a quick introduction. I agree that some cheaper hardware store ropes could hold, but I certainly never recommend anything besides a rated rope for life safety. They are more expensive, but it's pretty cheap insurance instead of taking a gamble. Thanks for the comment.
@@AdventuresInReach -- When you're young and don't know any better, you don't realize how dangerous it could be. Besides, being 20 and in the military kind of makes you think you're invulnerable anyway. After a few broken bones / compound fractures, you learn that is not necessarily true. But it's a rather painful learning experience... :) If you go to a site like e-rigging.com, you'll find rope where the minimum breaking load (MBL) is listed. For example, this link is for a 1/2" double braided nylon line with a MBL of 7800 lbs. www.e-rigging.com/_p_7634.html Change it to a double braided polyester rope and you get reduced stretch and a MBL of 7425 lbs. www.e-rigging.com/_p_7630.html It's actually pretty interesting to go through a site like this and look at the MBL for the different rope materials and sizes along with their elongation percentages. You can look at the chart of rope types and diameters at www.e-rigging.com/Rope_c_3883.html and you will see that to get the equivalent MBL of the 1/2" double braided nylon or polyester, you would have to go to a 1" diameter in manila rope. I'm guessing that if you were having to use 1" manila rope, you probably would not be using any of those new fangled descenders and other equipment. Definite "old school" techniques would apply... :) I would not have a problem using rope purchased from this site for fall protection because they list the MBL instead of some ambiguous "working load" like you see at the hardware stores. The main problem is that without a consistent measurement standard, you just do not know what you're getting with some of the hardware store ropes. They might very well serve your needs, but there's no way of knowing for sure. It's the typical apples to oranges comparison. Some people will avoid the comparison completely and just go with climbing rope. Some will figure all rope is the same and go with the hardware store rope. If something goes wrong, they might find out the error is their reasoning. Some will try to make informed decisions and use the hardware store rope only when a failure is unlikely to result in serious injury while also possibly doubling the rope to add an extra safety factor. I'm mostly in the last group, but I have gotten too old to do the climbing endeavors that you youngsters are doing. I could still **rappel** if I needed to, but actual **climbing** is more than my old joints want to do anymore. As the saying goes, "youth is wasted on the young"... :)
Excellent question! It's all based on math (ratios) for rescue we aim for 15:1 and for climbing 10:1 so a carabiner rated at 26kn (about 5,850 pounds) can hold 1/10th or 585 pounds. Having a second would be stronger but unnecessary. Consider that you also have one carabiner for your AT/munter, one rope, one harness... Reeder Thorne from Ropes That Rescue, who is one of the US's foremost rope rescue experts cautions against "redunditis" if having too much redundancy and making systems too complicated. Super question.
Hey. Absolutely agree! I try to watch how long I make them and I've toyed with having longer videos. If it helps I generally include links to other related videos to explain some things. Feel free to check out this playlist with knots: Rappelling and Knots: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
This is certainly instructional. The main intent was to give an overview and to encourage people to start small instead of going straight for a cliff if they are new and nervous. I've had many people who haven't rappelled because they didn't know of a way to work up to it. I certainly don't intend to show off here as I wasn't doing much that I would consider to be high adventure. If you are looking for more detailed instruction, I have a rappelling and knots playlist with a host of videos.
I don't think suggesting to beginners to be using a Munter for standard rapelling is a good idea..... it should be considered an improvised backup for emergency use. ATC's/figure-8's are cheap.
I agree that ATC's and figure 8's are pretty cheap. I was going for simple and basic, and although those two fit that description I also believe that learning the most basic skills is helpful when beginning. I would categorize a Munter as higher than an improvised backup as I know search and rescue teams who train with it sure to its effectiveness. I also mentioned getting some in person instruction as well as I don't believe any one video provides enough instruction, context, answers questions, etc.
your claim to authority is okay but your wrong about dynamic verses static rope. If you are only repelling a static rope is better. Dynamic rope is for climbing and reppaling.
I'm a little confused by your comment. I agree that static is ideal for rappelling due to better wear resistance. I also mentioned in the video that it makes more sense to buy the length of static that you need instead of a more expensive 60 meter dynamic rope. Dynamic and static both work for climbing and rappelling depending on what type of climbing you are doing. If you climb above your anchors as in trad or sport then dynamic is a must to avoid injury and reduce stress on the system. If you are climbing with a top rope setup static works just as well since you aren't falling any distance onto your rope. Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for your comment!
Your videos great BUT you should go a bit slower on showing the proper way of tieing down the second hand secure line, If your showing this for beginners and run right thru a video, that sure doesn't help much....also being on a Fire Rescue squad, always tie a simple knot at the end of every figure 8 as a precaution, to prevent any slippage with a tie down style (safety first)....
Point taken with the speed. I try to balance the pace with keeping it engaging. I hope that people rewind if needed. I've also been requested and made personalized videos a couple times. I believe NFPA requires backup knots on everything, but the research from Reed Thorne with Ropes That Rescue finds that the figure 8 family of knots don't slip or need backups, as apposed to the bowline family of knots that do require them. It certainly never hurts to tie one though!
In glad you are looking. It does appear that way in the video. I am on a flat, dry, clean rock with about 15 feet behind and 4 to the side then a couple feet down to another large ledge. The camera angle doesn't really show that. That is a good tip for me to be extra conservative in videos because of how it might look. Thanks.
First, I'm excited that you are getting into rappelling. I would highly suggest starting by learning your knots. I always suggest for beginners to learn the figure 8 family of knots (opposed to the bowline family) because they are more visually obvious and safer for folks who may have less experience. I did a video talking about this if you're interested: ua-cam.com/video/WayUYsiOQx4/v-deo.html Even when I've taken week+ long high angle rescue classes, the knots were the initial focus, because without tying reliably, you can't do anything else with ropes. Second I would learn about anchors: selecting them, padding, and multiple methods of tying. The third focus would be on the actual rappel methods, devices, and prussik backup. The most useful books I have came from the courses I've taken. My favorite is called The Art of Clean Rigging by Reed Thorne with Ropes That Rescue. I can't seem to find that online, so that's not much help. It's also quite and advanced book for high angle rescue, but the knot section is awesome. I don't own, but have paged through the book: Toproping (How to Climb) by Bob Gaines, which seemed like a good option. Climbing Anchors by John Long has been useful, although it's fairly dated. You might also check out the Animated Knots app to start learning. It makes tying fairly easy to follow along. My other suggestion would be to find an in-person course. The AMGA is always a good option, and many climbing gyms have classes that would be quite helpful. Books and videos are great references but there's nothing better than in person to get that immediate feedback. If you want to maximize your time in a course or don't plan to do that, I would suggest learning all the figure 8's you can, the water knot and frost bend, and a prussik knot. Then you can choose a rappel device and practice with loading the rope. I have a beginner rappelling and knots playlist with most of this addressed: ua-cam.com/video/RVoze1IpdVI/v-deo.html If you have other question that a video could answer, feel free to let me know.
@@AdventuresInReach wow. Thank you so much. The figure 8 family is going to be my family and step one for me then. Also I don't mind old school as long as it's safe - I'm getting into this as a way to manage a ranch more effectively, and to be able to collect plant and soil samples (and the occasional stranded sheep) from otherwise inaccessible places.
Hey. I'm just seeing your new reply. I had to scroll through to find it... The sounds interesting to be rescuing stranded sheep and collecting samples. Le me know if you have more questions, and consider subscribing for more videos. It's winter here so the rope videos will be more sporadic, but I'll certainly continue in the spring.
Two things, even for beginners......One: Always use 2 carabiners at your masterpoint with the gates opposite and opposed....and....two: don't throw your rope down while yelling "rope". Call out "rope", wait a few seconds, and then throw the rope. Yelling rope at the same time as your are throwing it, may cause someone below you to look up into a bundle of rope crashing into their face and not have enough time to see it coming in order to get out of the way
My rope rescue training has taught me to base redundancy decisions on math. The carabiner is about the same KN rating as the rope, which means they would fail at the same time...or actually a knot would fail first... I learned to have gates opposite and opposed when using nonlocking carabiners, which still makes a ton of sense no matter what the ratings are. It could be helpful for beginners to use more gear when starting, but I also prefer people to learn, go with others, look at the math of the system, and be knowledgeable and confident before setting up a system themselves. That's a good point about yelling "rope" and pausing, which is what I normally do. However, with trying to condense videos, I sometimes go a little quicker. A few seconds wouldn't have hurt though. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video. Your helmet sort of popped out at me. Other than agency search-and-rescue videos (by municipal fire departments, etc.), you're the first person I've seen teaching rappelling while wearing a helmet. That alone lends a lot of credibility to your videos, relative to people teaching climbing safety while NOT wearing a helmet.
I appreciate you pointing that out. I'm certainly an advocate of training how you will do in for real. You're a lot less likely to forget steps that way. Thank you for watching!
My first rappel happened while I was in the Army, stationed at Ft Hood, TX. It was a 30' - 40' cliff. That was a good first exposure to rappelling. The Army then sent me to an introduction course on Mountaineering and Rappelling on Cheju Island, South Korea where the final test was an Australian-style rappel just over 300'. Next was Air Assault School and rappelling out of a helicopter hovering at appx 100'. After all that, I attended a training course and became a Certified Rappel Master for the Army. Fun times! I haven't been rappelling since I got out of the Army, but I've recently developed a strong desire to start again. Your video helped remind me of some of the basics I need to pay attention to. Thank you!
That all sounds like some awesome experiences! If you recall some skills from your training that you think I should share, feel free to let me know. That would be fun to start again and rediscover some of those skills and thrills. I'd be curious to know how it goes.
100% the same boat dude. Trust me, it’s worth the investment to get back in to. Go for it!
I used to repel in the fire department but our maximum we repelled was only around 5 to 6 stories. I retired from the fire service and started volunteering with our local fire department, been wanting to get back familiar with higher angle rescues. Great video to re-start the repelling and rescue juices flowing!
5-6 stories is high for many people. Does your current fire department do high angle rescue? I have a playlist called "Beginner Rappelling and Knots" if you'd like to check out more. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
I just got back from a trip where my first rappel experience ever was off 90' vertical cliff with no experience. The guides were experienced climbers, and I trusted their ability to tie everything off and keep me safe. Needless to say, I loved it and want to do it again. It's a whole different adventure when you're securing yourself properly and trusting you did it properly! Thanks for the video!
Awesome. That's great that you went for the first time. It certainly is a different experience trusting your own, but just remember that it's a skill that can be learned. Watch others, learn the basics, make sure you have appropriate rated gear, and start by only setting up where you can use anchors you're confident with.
Thank you very much. Learnt a lot from this video.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm going to have to try some simple rappel around my house! thanks for inspiring me!
Go for it! Have fun and be safe!
Nice video. I've went repelling once in my life & loved it, but didn't follow up on taking it any further. Been thinking about it again lately to take my hiking/camping trips to the next level. Thanks for the simple & straightforward information for beginners. Inspiring!! Definitely going to check your other videos.
Thank you. I'm excited that you are inspired by them. Check out my hammock camping video too. That may really give you something to work towards. How are you thinking of combining rappelling and hiking/camping? I'm just imagining you bushwacking and rappeling down clifs on your way to a backcountry campsite.
Thanks for the overview. I was introduced years ago and have kept up with some of the knots and it’s nice seeing the way you teach. Just need to find a spot I would feel comfortable at
You're very welcome. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.
--If you want a shortcut to reliable gear, then check the links in the description!
--Join my email list and get a free Rappelling Gear List--link in description.
--Please consider liking and subscribing!
--Check out this "Rappelling and Knots" playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
Really informative vid, thanks!
I'm glad you enjoyed it. There's a rappelling playlist and several knot videos on my channel as well, in case you haven't found them and are looking for more.
Thanks for sharing. I like the use of the Munter hitch for rappelling because it’s great to improvise in case you dropped your belay device.
Also you should talk about edge safety while setting up the rappel (apologies if I missed you say that).
Agreed. I like knowing/teaching the foundational skills because that's what usually works and gets you out of a bind. I don't believe I mentioned edge safety, but that's a good reminder. It's hard to try fitting everything into a short video.
I feel like I’m being mandela effected….the army teaches a method of rappelling where you just wrap the rope around the spine of a carabiner. The Munter hitch is more cumbersome in every way…why is that what’s taught in the civilian world?
hello from iraq with you well done
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it. It's always fun to hear where you are watching from.
Love it!
Did you ever try it?
I recently purchased a new version of the petzel stop I’m planning on rappelling into caves and old mines
I'm unfamiliar with the Stop. I always recommend using a backup prussik or Petzl Asap as a backup.
The newer version of the STOP is awesome, I have both & highly recommend the new STOP.
The basics and beginner friendly way of teaching rapelling, would be with a proper belay or rapelling device. Rapelling with the munter hitch is more of a backup/emergency method in case you just lost your belay device down the mountain. While it's perfetcly ok with the munter hitch to take your brake hand above the "device" for more friction, it can be quite straining, and for beginners be confusing, as this is not something you would or should ever do on a normal rapell. The prusik or "third hand" as we like to call it should be fitted below the rapell device, and only serve as a backup holding the rope, not the entire bodyweight (even though it is capable of such).
So, I would call this an advanced rapelling technique, which should only be used in cases where you lack the proper equipment.
Hello. Thanks for your comment. I agree that a rappel device is easier to learn. I've also had the repeated experience of beginners I've taught being thankful for learning the most basic method to see the principles (like turns creating friction) in effect, and that they don't need much "stuff" to make the experience happen. There's certainly a great deal of value in learning the elemental skills and techniques that can be relied on no matter what the situation. That being said, I am recommending in this video that people new to rappelling also start on a hill, or off their porch, etc. so it's much more approachable and lower risk. As for the prussik, I've seen it taught both ways depending on the specific situation. Many attach the prussik to a leg loop when below the device, which I'm not a fan of. I also seldom say "only" or "never" as there are often exceptions and I'd rather not have beginners convinced they can't do it. At the same time, I recommend that beginners are best served with in person training.
@Man Dendon It's really not any cheaper than buying a rapell or belay device. You get a brand new rapell/belay device for $14-20 depending on type, the rest of the equipment needed is the same. Rapelling with a proper device is both smoother, easier, and in most cases safer. People caving, mountaineering etc. use the same equipment, or more specialized(and sometimes more expensive) equipment where there is a need for rapelling.
No matter what reason you have for rapelling, using equipment designed for rapelling will ALWAYS be better, and easier, than using makeshift solutions. And if it's to protect yourself in steep hills hiking, $14 is a small price to pay.
If you really want to save money, it is possible to rapell with only a rope and your body.
Now don't get me wrong, this is a good technique to know if you ever lose your rapell/belay device, during a hike, or when you're about to rapell from mt st helens.
Great videos. 🙋♂️
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comments.
You are the best.
Thank you. I appreciate that. Have you checked out the other videos in this playlist?
Thank-you
You bet! I'm glad you liked it. Feel free to let me know if you have requests. You might be interested in checking out my knots and rappelling playlist.
I would definitely NOT use a Munter hitch for regular rappelling. It kinks the rope in a horrible way, so I would use it only for emergencies if there is no other option available. Using an ATC is simpler, more efficient, and doesn't add significantly to the overall cost of the equipment.
Yes. It does twist the rope and ATC's are affordable. I like to teach the basics so people feel confident about being able to deal with those what-if situations like dropping a piece of gear. In this video I'm also mainly addressing people who are starting and going off shorted cliffs where they won't experience much twisting. I posted another video where I taught a random girl to rappel for her first time and I had her use an ATC: ua-cam.com/video/FA88sv9M_fc/v-deo.html
Nice video, man. It’s certainly fun, but to be avoided whenever possible.
Great video, Very informative. When setting up your anchor, what size and length of rope do you use, and is that also dynamic? Not sure what’s best to use or buy for setting up anchors for rappelling. Thanks
One of the very minimalistic ways I've shown is to build anchors with a 30' piece of 7 or 8mm cordage. Rated cordage should be static. You really don't want to use dynamic for anchors since they would be more likely to move from where you initially tie them, and be less abrasion resistant--especially since anchors are often around rocks.
There is not one method to set up an anchor unless you climb or rappel at the same site each outing. I generally carry my 30' piece of cordage as well as an assortment of webbing lengths--usually an 8, 15, 25, and 40 foot. I also have some edge protection and carabiners.
I would recommend starting with either cordage (tying figure 8's) or webbing (tying overhands on a bights and water knots). Learn a few methods using those supplies so you are confident and efficient. You'll also want some autolocking carabiners. I would first start with learning the knots and practicing a few setups and "rappels" somewhere safer at first.
Feel free to ask questions as you go.
Thank you from. John. In Pennsylvania
You bet. There's more where that came from on my rappelling and knots playlist, and feel free to let me know if there's something you'd like to see. Have you rappelled before?
I learned to trust my ropes and rigging while painting and repairing water towers you have to have confidence in what you are doing.
Nice. It is hard at first, but like anything else you do get used to it...mostly. Do you still work on water towers? I have been watching as our town's (Ely, MN) water tower is painted and thinking it looks like fun.
@@AdventuresInReach not any longer ,it was a riot ,you would not believe the things we used to do back in the 80s now anything you do is scrutinized and if you get caught going down your rope falls hand over hand with your legs wrapped around ropes you will be fined or if you slide down the sway rods that is also a NoNo we only climbed up not down and you kept your adrenalin going all day long to get you through the days it was fun a true adventure. True adventures are hard to come by.
Ha, that sounds fun. Maybe a bit risky, but some things once you acquire the skill and strength, it can be pretty safe. By true adventure do you mean dangerous things that you are allowed to do? I certainly agree it's harder, and there's also a lot out there. I like to think that improving safely allows people to go further.
My friends and I have this super steep area in our trail in the woods we like to explore so I've been cramming with as much info as possible when it comes to rappelling with only rope
Only rope works, but it certainly isn't comfortable. If you're interested I have many more related videos in this playlist:
Beginner Rappelling and Knots: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
Dude get a figure eight and a caribeaner they’re cheap and make harness out of pieces of rope that’s how I got started with one of my buddies
@@jaydenorcutt5677 do you have to take an official class to learn to rappel safely or can you learn from UA-cam videos and through intense practice?
@@aidey8mph605 watch videos of figure 8 repels I learned in boy scouts and taught a friend
@@jaydenorcutt5677 I have been binge watching different videos talking about different hitches and ways of rappelling with a super 8 or a carabiner. I have seen things saying to be instructed by a professional but I think that is if someone is going to rappel on a mountain I mean obviously I am not going to do that first. I mainly want to try it out because it seems very technical and cool. Having to take a class on how to rappel makes it way less easy to get into and kind of turns me off to the idea.
Thank you for your video, very helpful! What do I need to use if I want to repell down but then go back up?
You're welcome. I'm glad it was useful. If you want to ascend the rope, there are several methods you can use. In this video link, at about 2:37, I show several methods to do just that. See you over there. ua-cam.com/video/w9nJuQ2tF7w/v-deo.html
@@AdventuresInReach Awesome! Thanks a lot
Great video my first time rappelling I fell about 60 feet it wasn’t very pleasant
Wow. Were you injured? How did that happen?
I got rapel gear to go off what used to be a railroad bridge over a creek in my city, its now a public bridge that go built right on top minus the rails.
I usually magnet fosh in the creek and have found ww2 munitions, but wanted this to get cooser to the water
That sounds fun. Obviously be careful, and make sure you know how to ascent the rope, and have a comfortable harness (ideally with a seat) so you don't cut off circulation.
@@AdventuresInReach lol i didnt fully know what i was doing so i stopped. I tested it enough so ik the harness and rope is good but didnt full rapel for not fully knowing how, plus how hard it is to pull myself back up and the rope was tangling cause idk why chinese items suck lol
6:34 damn pandemic got trees getting checkups 😮💨
Gotta have a healthy tree!
I want to try .i rappelled at the fair years ago
Yes! You should do it. Do you have any equipment? A climbing gym near you? Friends who know how?
I see your Over the Edge shirt. I will be doing one at Mohegan Sun in September. Have never done any rappelling before and would appreciate any tips to physically and mentally prepare. I’m a 67 year old female in decent shape with a healthy fear of heights. Most concerned about that first step off.
First, thanks for raising money for whatever the nonprofit is...and remember you worked hard to have the chance to rappel off a building! I included a link below for my Beginner Rappelling playlist. Rappelling is not very physically demanding--just walking backwards and hand grip. Mentally there's the rational and irrational parts if your brain to deal with. Rationally you can consider similar things you've done like climbing a tree, swinging, etc., know the strengths of the equipment like the ropes that are rated to about 9,000 pounds. The lead staff are highly trained, inspect the system every time before someone goes over... They also use a tripod on top that gets your weight on the rope before you go over the edge-unlike with traditional rappelling that can make it feel more concerning. They also use 2 ropes and one has a seat belt like device that brakes if you go too fast. That means you could literally just let go and stop a few feet later. Irrationally, remember that a fear of heights and falling is healthy so embrace it and keep moving, and do some deep breathing. I'd love to hear how it goes!
Beginner Rappelling and Knots: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
Thanks for a good introduction. Can you give any sources for rope rescue training? Thanks.
You are certainly welcome. I've received my rope rescue training from my local Search and Rescue crew as well as through Ropes That Rescue, which is owned by Reed Thorne, who's an internationally renowned rope rescue expert. I would highly recommend traveling to join one of their personal and team rescue core classes. Before that I would highly suggest learning the figure 8 family and bowline family of knots as well as some other basics. Unless it's a pre-set system, knots are the foundation to all things rope rescue. I would also suggest getting familiar with the ratings of different static rope diameters, slings, cordage, webbing, carabiners, etc.
@@AdventuresInReachthanks a for the info.
How do you retrieve your gear that you used to build the anchor? Do you have to sacrifice that gear every time you rappel?
This depends on the situation, gear, etc. If it's for fun you can simply set up your anchor, rappel down then either hike, rock climb, or use ascenders or prussiks to climb the rope back up. If you are rappelling off a climb site there are often rappel stations so you can feed your rope through the chains, keep the center at the top and rappel down both ends, then just pull your rope down after you. This same thing can be done with a huge, reliable tree (that's a whole topic on its own). Sometimes you can use a sling and rappel ring and leave it at the top. Another method if needing to do a rappel that's almost as long as your rope is to keep one end clipped around the rope and have a tag line to pull it down with later. This video shows how to do this (practicing in a tree): ua-cam.com/video/JX6wYVn6-Fg/v-deo.html
I'm BRAND NEW, what's the first book you would suggest reading on the subject?
Did you ever get my comment? I responded to you a while ago, but it still shows up in my comment list as "haven't responded".
Question: Do you absolutely have to anchor to two objects or would it be safe to only use one anchor with the proper knots?
Well--no you don't always need two anchors. However, you must be able to accurately assess a single anchor to call it "bomber" in that the majority of experienced people (climbers/rescuers) would agree that the anchor would not fail. A huge rock with a sling around it and not on a slope or on wet ground, or a huge tree in good soil (not on ledgerock, etc.) with a taproot can be a bomber anchor. The same can be said for some man made anchors such as a high voltage power pole. The proper knots, equipment (webbing, rope, carabiners, etc.) must be all part of the system. Just remember that you don't need to be over-redundant yet redundancy is part of a safe system.
Thanks. Can you show us some reputable websites for buying climbing gear? Lot of junk on amazon.
I always fo with the reputable companies (Petzl, Black Diamond, Mammut, Metolius, Edelrid, Rock Exotica...). All the climbing stores or outdoor stores with climb gear in the US I've seen selling only quality brands as listed. If you select name brands, I think it's less about quality and more about selecting the right gear for the application.
@@AdventuresInReach Thanks, been looking at some Petzls.
How do you get the ropes down? Or do you just leave it until you hike back up?
Good question. For these I just hiked back up. Sometimes I climb up the rope with prussiks or an ascender and prussiks. I've also just doubled the rope around a bomber tree and pulled it down. Some people use a Ghost knot, but I would use that with extreme caution or avoid it. Another option when using a single line is to loop the end around the bomber anchor and clip into itself with a carabiner. You then tie a smaller line (like paracord) to the carabiner to pull the rope down later. Let me know if you have more questions.
@@AdventuresInReach thanks for the quick reply. I just found your channel today and am finding it very useful and interesting. Thanks!
@@AdventuresInReach I think I like the carabiners idea. That seems simple and safe enough when there is only enough roooe to run a single line.
It works well. I also use that technique for tree climbing.
when you used two trees as shared anchors it was with one rope right, attaching each end to each tree with a figure 8 follow through?
That's correct. A figure 8 follow through at each end around the trees then a double loop figure 8 at the apex to provide redundancy by isolating the strands coming from each tree.
@Adventures In Reach so had you just done a figure 8 on a bite bw the two anchors it would not be sufficient?
It may be. The reason I used a double loop figure 8 was because I was tying the anchor with cordage and wanted to double the strength of the loop that I clipped my rope into.
👍🤙
Did you try it?
@@AdventuresInReach I use it a lot in trees
Okay so how do you release the knotted rope at the top?
I have plans to make a video about how to retrieve the rappel line. There are multiple methods depending on how it's anchored and rigged. I'm hoping to get footage this weekend, although I'll also be editing footage from a recent sailing trip. Keep an eye out and consider turning on notifications if you haven't already.
Nice vid. Personally I am not a fan of the brake hand getting anywhere near the carabiner or figure 8. Seen fingers get caught.
Agreed. Fingers and friction devices don't mix. I'm trying to recall if my fingers got close since you are referencing that. It's sometimes harder to manage when filming at the same time. Thanks for the comment!
hi
how are you my name is Lung
i have a fdny rescue helmet i want to know how do you rpail the rop to the roof ?
Hello. Do you mind phrasing your question another way. Are you wanting to rappel from a roof?
@@AdventuresInReach yes or the rock
You need to have two beeners on your anchors at the master point opposite and opposed.
That decision all comes down to the math of the system and what type of carabiners you are using. Many years ago when more people used nonlocking carabiners for the anchor points, the systems did require opposite and apposed carabiners to avoid them opening at the same time. NFPA calls for a 15:1 safety rating whereas backcountry rope rescue calls for 10:1. Although some climbers go less than that, I follow the 10:1 rule and therefore base my math on that. So if a carabiner has a 23kn (225 lbs per kn) rating (225 lbs x 23 = 5,175lbs) then you divide 5,175 lbs by 10 (517) and that's the safe load it can support. As a sub-200 pound person, that single carabiner is actually overkill and adding a second may not hurt, but can lead to what Reed Thorne from Ropes That Rescue refers to as redunditis (making the system overly redundant and therefore more complicated, more difficult to understand and evaluate, and therefore has the potential to be less safe. So, in the end, I would say it isn't necessarily wrong to have 2 carabiners, although it may be unnecessary.
Thank you for doing this but, I have a silly question/comment:
The "trust" in this - for me - is not the carabiner's, or the gear, or the knots etc...
It's the rope rubbing on the rock or something like that. Why do almost NONE of these YT channels talk of ways to protect the rope from rubbing?
What do you do with it?
What protects it?
I fear being half way down a slope and POOF my rope snaps and off I go!! LOL
I did this video of some affordable edge protection options. Let me know what you think. ua-cam.com/video/xKYNcDUJXHA/v-deo.html
How do you get your rope down?
There are several options...but I have just the video to answer your question: ua-cam.com/video/w9nJuQ2tF7w/v-deo.html
You cant fall if someones on the beal right? Even in a swiss seat?
If I understand correctly what you are asking--yes you can fall if someone is on belay. It's dependent upon the anchors, if the belayer is attentive and using good techniques, etc. A Swiss seat is perfectly acceptable as long as it's tied correctly, tight, and over the hips. They just aren't as comfortable. Let me know whether or not I answered your questions. Thanks.
@@AdventuresInReach yea that answered my questions, thank you. One more real quick, would the fall be to slow to be fatal if the belayer caught em in time
If the belayer caught the climber as intended then they wouldn't hit the ground. If toproping, then the climber should only fall a couple feet at most. If lead climbing (sport/trad) then they may fall twice the height that they climbed above their last anchor, plus the length that the rope stretches. Dynamic ropes are intended to stretch and slowly absorb the shock so that falls do not injure the climber. That being said, the rope, effective anchors, correct belay techniques, appropriate equipment, helmet, fitted harness, the rock itself, etc all factors in to determine injury or death when falling. Rock climbing is inherently risky (much less so if trained) and I certainly recommend some in person training and starting slow.
@@AdventuresInReach awesome thanks man, im not gona rock climb im terrified of heights lol but i do have to go down a rappel tower for basic training and i wana mitigate my fears before i get there, your answer helped a lot i feel better now thank you
You're certainly welcome. Feel free to ask if you have more questions. A rappel tower has a lot less variables with no rock to fall, no sharp surfaces to wear rope, and it's an engineered structure. That scenario may actually have a lot higher perceived risk than actual risk.
ok, now how do you get your rope when your down?
There are several ways to do this... My demos in this video were single strand and intended to be uncomplicated. I therefore had to hike back up to get my rope. You can use a look of rope around a "bomber" anchor by rappelling down both strands then simply pulling one side. With set rock climbing routes this is the method used and there are generally rappel stations with chains and quick links to thread your rope through. You can also rappel on a single line that's clipped to itself and a small cordage retrieval line tied to the carabiner. I show that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/JX6wYVn6-Fg/v-deo.html There is also something called a ghost knot that can be untied from below--but I do not recommend this unless you are experienced, try it in a safe place first, and are confident that you are doing it correct.
@@AdventuresInReach thanks! so i'm assuming a "bomber" anchor is a permeant anchor in a rock or similar. how would you keep the one end of the rope from sliding through the anchor ? or are you holding both ropes at the same same time?
A bomber anchor is one that a whole group of knowledgeable people would agree would never fail. Obviously, "never" is tricky, but you get the point. A 150 year old cedar tree (deep root system) growing on decent soil (not ledgerock); a huge bolder that's not on the side of a hill; a structurally sound fire tower; or, yes, a pair of set bolts in good shape... You are also correct that you would double up the rope so the center goes around/through the anchor and you rappel down both ends at the same time. This is generally done with an ATC-type device.
You have to leave gear at the top?
That answer depends how you set up the rappel. Some rappel then climb their rope just as a way to practice and have fun. Otherwise, there are several ways to retrieve gear, and some people do leave minimal gear behind or use rappel anchors that are permanently bolted into the rock. I'm actually working on a video to address how to retrieve gear.
@@AdventuresInReach climb the rope with an ascender ?
Yes. That's one method. I recently posted the video about retrieving a rappel line: ua-cam.com/video/w9nJuQ2tF7w/v-deo.html
Is rappelling an expensive hobby?
That partly depends on how long of a rappel you want to do, if you have other activities that you would also want to use the gear for, and which type of gear you want (ATC vs GriGri, and Cordage for a prussik vs an autoblock). I would say that you can get all of the basics for about $200 USD. There are links in the video description if you want to see some of my recommendations. Let me know if you have any other questions...and happy rappelling.
Muy bien, en el video muestra como lo hace pero NO ENSEÑA A HACERLO.
Gracias por el comentario. Echa un vistazo a esta lista de reproduccion para conocer las habilidades. ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
My first time rappelling was in SoCal when I was in the military back in the '70s with some Marines that I knew from Camp Pendleton. They took me to one of the cliffs overlooking the ocean at Torrey Pines and we rappelled down to the beach and then hiked back up along the trail, followed by lots of beer and gawking at the women on Blacks Beach... Best I remember it was around 300 ft from the top of the cliffs to the beach... Quite the "beginner" rappel, eh? Quite the adrenaline rush...
You're not quite accurate on your comparison of "rated" climbing rope vs what might appear to be the same rope from a hardware store. Climbing rope's rating is going to be basically it's minimum tested break strength (minimum breaking load) during multiple tests, perhaps minus a slight amount for "just in case". The rating on your hardware store rope is going to be a "working load". Working load is based on some fraction of its ultimate break strength -- it may be 1/3rd (3:1 safety factor) or it may be 1/10th (10:1 safety factor). The problem is that you don't know what fraction the manufacturer uses in determining this safety factor. The manufacturer will attempt to cover his ass by declaring on the packaging something like "not intended for human loads or overhead lifting". Let's say that you have some of the hardware store rope and it is "rated" for 240 lbs. Depending upon the safety factor that they used, it *might* be safe enough for rappels or it might not. The problem is that you just don't know. Maybe they used a 10:1 safety factor, maybe just a 3:1... And by saying that it is not intended for human loads or overhead lifting, they can probably get around any regulations where there might be a mandated safety factor. The problem is, YOU JUST DON'T KNOW... Harbor Freight has a 3/8" rope that looks to be of the kernmantle style and it has a "maximum working load" rating of 600 lbs. Home Depot has a similar rope with that has a "working load limit" of 244 lbs. Are they that different or are they probably the same rope with one having a 5:1 safety factor and the other having a 2:1? Or maybe it is 10:1 and 4:1? WE JUST DON'T KNOW... So, would I use the Harbor Freight rope to rappel down a cliff where a failure would result in my death? Nawh, I don't think so... Maybe in my younger days, but then again, I did a lot of stupid things back then and luckily Darwin was asleep on the job. Would I use it as a safety rope when I needed to work on the roof of my house and it was a bit steeper than I would prefer without a rope? Yeah, I would and I **have** used it for that. The difference is that in one situation, if it fails, it would kill me and in the other if it fails, I'm just going to experience some pain of falling off a 1-story roof. I've also used it as a safety rope while working in a tree cutting limbs, but I might have doubled it at that point. The tree was not particularly tall, so a fall would most likely mean pain instead of death. You pay your money and you take your chances...
That is quite the way to start for a beginner! I love it. I started by building a climbing wall on the side of my family's barn, then just reading some books to learn how to do it. Not the safest, but I"ve since had quite a bit more extensive training. You make some good points. I have to decide what to include in the videos and I certainly don't want to mislead or confuse anyone about which rope during a quick introduction. I agree that some cheaper hardware store ropes could hold, but I certainly never recommend anything besides a rated rope for life safety. They are more expensive, but it's pretty cheap insurance instead of taking a gamble. Thanks for the comment.
@@AdventuresInReach -- When you're young and don't know any better, you don't realize how dangerous it could be. Besides, being 20 and in the military kind of makes you think you're invulnerable anyway. After a few broken bones / compound fractures, you learn that is not necessarily true. But it's a rather painful learning experience... :)
If you go to a site like e-rigging.com, you'll find rope where the minimum breaking load (MBL) is listed. For example, this link is for a 1/2" double braided nylon line with a MBL of 7800 lbs.
www.e-rigging.com/_p_7634.html
Change it to a double braided polyester rope and you get reduced stretch and a MBL of 7425 lbs.
www.e-rigging.com/_p_7630.html
It's actually pretty interesting to go through a site like this and look at the MBL for the different rope materials and sizes along with their elongation percentages. You can look at the chart of rope types and diameters at www.e-rigging.com/Rope_c_3883.html and you will see that to get the equivalent MBL of the 1/2" double braided nylon or polyester, you would have to go to a 1" diameter in manila rope. I'm guessing that if you were having to use 1" manila rope, you probably would not be using any of those new fangled descenders and other equipment. Definite "old school" techniques would apply... :)
I would not have a problem using rope purchased from this site for fall protection because they list the MBL instead of some ambiguous "working load" like you see at the hardware stores. The main problem is that without a consistent measurement standard, you just do not know what you're getting with some of the hardware store ropes. They might very well serve your needs, but there's no way of knowing for sure. It's the typical apples to oranges comparison. Some people will avoid the comparison completely and just go with climbing rope. Some will figure all rope is the same and go with the hardware store rope. If something goes wrong, they might find out the error is their reasoning. Some will try to make informed decisions and use the hardware store rope only when a failure is unlikely to result in serious injury while also possibly doubling the rope to add an extra safety factor. I'm mostly in the last group, but I have gotten too old to do the climbing endeavors that you youngsters are doing. I could still **rappel** if I needed to, but actual **climbing** is more than my old joints want to do anymore. As the saying goes, "youth is wasted on the young"... :)
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Why not two carabiners at the top? Just trying to minimize equipment?
Excellent question! It's all based on math (ratios) for rescue we aim for 15:1 and for climbing 10:1 so a carabiner rated at 26kn (about 5,850 pounds) can hold 1/10th or 585 pounds. Having a second would be stronger but unnecessary. Consider that you also have one carabiner for your AT/munter, one rope, one harness... Reeder Thorne from Ropes That Rescue, who is one of the US's foremost rope rescue experts cautions against "redunditis" if having too much redundancy and making systems too complicated. Super question.
Yes is simple that why is 😿all i tried
Thanks for watching!
would've been a better vid if ya didn't rush and show the various knots and such
Hey. Absolutely agree! I try to watch how long I make them and I've toyed with having longer videos. If it helps I generally include links to other related videos to explain some things. Feel free to check out this playlist with knots: Rappelling and Knots: ua-cam.com/play/PLNcpRGw7T0bj3IMJQG8WDyUBquw4Xe4YP.html
Ois this a show off or instructional thing? Because I can't help to notice that it doesn't have much info even on the things he put together.
This is certainly instructional. The main intent was to give an overview and to encourage people to start small instead of going straight for a cliff if they are new and nervous. I've had many people who haven't rappelled because they didn't know of a way to work up to it. I certainly don't intend to show off here as I wasn't doing much that I would consider to be high adventure. If you are looking for more detailed instruction, I have a rappelling and knots playlist with a host of videos.
I don't think suggesting to beginners to be using a Munter for standard rapelling is a good idea..... it should be considered an improvised backup for emergency use. ATC's/figure-8's are cheap.
I agree that ATC's and figure 8's are pretty cheap. I was going for simple and basic, and although those two fit that description I also believe that learning the most basic skills is helpful when beginning. I would categorize a Munter as higher than an improvised backup as I know search and rescue teams who train with it sure to its effectiveness. I also mentioned getting some in person instruction as well as I don't believe any one video provides enough instruction, context, answers questions, etc.
your claim to authority is okay but your wrong about dynamic verses static rope. If you are only repelling a static rope is better. Dynamic rope is for climbing and reppaling.
I'm a little confused by your comment. I agree that static is ideal for rappelling due to better wear resistance. I also mentioned in the video that it makes more sense to buy the length of static that you need instead of a more expensive 60 meter dynamic rope. Dynamic and static both work for climbing and rappelling depending on what type of climbing you are doing. If you climb above your anchors as in trad or sport then dynamic is a must to avoid injury and reduce stress on the system. If you are climbing with a top rope setup static works just as well since you aren't falling any distance onto your rope. Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for your comment!
Your videos great BUT you should go a bit slower on showing the proper way of tieing down the second hand secure line, If your showing this for beginners and run right thru a video, that sure doesn't help much....also being on a Fire Rescue squad, always tie a simple knot at the end of every figure 8 as a precaution, to prevent any slippage with a tie down style (safety first)....
Point taken with the speed. I try to balance the pace with keeping it engaging. I hope that people rewind if needed. I've also been requested and made personalized videos a couple times. I believe NFPA requires backup knots on everything, but the research from Reed Thorne with Ropes That Rescue finds that the figure 8 family of knots don't slip or need backups, as apposed to the bowline family of knots that do require them. It certainly never hurts to tie one though!
Cepat amat ngomongnya bang, kek balapan aj
Poor quality video, even at 1080p setting. Your gear that is what we want to see is in a dark shadow on a bright day.
Thanks for the feedback.
Dude you should be "secured" the whole time your setting up that anchor and rope......
In glad you are looking. It does appear that way in the video. I am on a flat, dry, clean rock with about 15 feet behind and 4 to the side then a couple feet down to another large ledge. The camera angle doesn't really show that. That is a good tip for me to be extra conservative in videos because of how it might look. Thanks.
I'm BRAND NEW, what's the first book you would suggest reading on the subject?
First, I'm excited that you are getting into rappelling. I would highly suggest starting by learning your knots. I always suggest for beginners to learn the figure 8 family of knots (opposed to the bowline family) because they are more visually obvious and safer for folks who may have less experience. I did a video talking about this if you're interested: ua-cam.com/video/WayUYsiOQx4/v-deo.html
Even when I've taken week+ long high angle rescue classes, the knots were the initial focus, because without tying reliably, you can't do anything else with ropes. Second I would learn about anchors: selecting them, padding, and multiple methods of tying. The third focus would be on the actual rappel methods, devices, and prussik backup.
The most useful books I have came from the courses I've taken. My favorite is called The Art of Clean Rigging by Reed Thorne with Ropes That Rescue. I can't seem to find that online, so that's not much help. It's also quite and advanced book for high angle rescue, but the knot section is awesome. I don't own, but have paged through the book: Toproping (How to Climb) by Bob Gaines, which seemed like a good option. Climbing Anchors by John Long has been useful, although it's fairly dated. You might also check out the Animated Knots app to start learning. It makes tying fairly easy to follow along. My other suggestion would be to find an in-person course. The AMGA is always a good option, and many climbing gyms have classes that would be quite helpful. Books and videos are great references but there's nothing better than in person to get that immediate feedback. If you want to maximize your time in a course or don't plan to do that, I would suggest learning all the figure 8's you can, the water knot and frost bend, and a prussik knot. Then you can choose a rappel device and practice with loading the rope. I have a beginner rappelling and knots playlist with most of this addressed: ua-cam.com/video/RVoze1IpdVI/v-deo.html If you have other question that a video could answer, feel free to let me know.
@@AdventuresInReach wow. Thank you so much. The figure 8 family is going to be my family and step one for me then. Also I don't mind old school as long as it's safe - I'm getting into this as a way to manage a ranch more effectively, and to be able to collect plant and soil samples (and the occasional stranded sheep) from otherwise inaccessible places.
Hey. I'm just seeing your new reply. I had to scroll through to find it... The sounds interesting to be rescuing stranded sheep and collecting samples. Le me know if you have more questions, and consider subscribing for more videos. It's winter here so the rope videos will be more sporadic, but I'll certainly continue in the spring.