This is the hard way to do it. First disconnect the battery, use a 3/8 drive ratchet to find the tensioner pulley turning counterclockwise to free the serpentine belt. You can do it within two-and-a-half to three hours tops by yourself if you remove the intake to give you a little wiggle room oh, you don't have to take it completely off just loosen it to where you can move it around about an inch, remove the canister on the back of the firewall, a couple of vacuum lines that run to that canister, two wiring harnesses, and the electric throttle all of these are on the top and all on the passenger side. You will need a couple of flat-head screwdrivers to use as pry bars as needed, 8 mm socket a 10 mm socket and a 13 mm socket to complete the entire job. After you have the top-end off you can reach down and touch the alternator, feel around for the 10 mm nut on the back of the alternator and remove it. On the bottom side of the car, it is easier to have the passenger front wheel removed, also remove the plastic guard that it is covering the alternator. Use your 13 mm socket to loosen all three bolts one of them could be a stud nonetheless they're all 13 mm. After you drop the alternator down turn it around disconnect the wiring harness using a flathead to press in the clip and turn so it's frees the harness from the alternator. No back to the top-end you can pull the alternator up by the pulley with the two both sides of the alternator facing the driver side and the single bolt side of the alternator facing the passenger side. You are going to have to wiggle this and maneuver this but it will come out. At that point is a good time to take a break before reinstalling the new one. When you insert the new one drop it down to the bottom get back underneath the vehicle clip in the wire harness attached your 10 mm nut before putting the three bolts that hold the alternator to the block back in. Once that then go ahead and attach the alternator, put your serpentine belt back on the same way releasing tension on the tensioner. Go back to the top side and reassemble everything that you have removed. Reconnect the battery and make sure the battery symbol on the vehicle is off and you're all set to go. This will save you a ton of time and a ton of Labor trying to remove the axle and the tie rod.
Thank you for simplifying the procedure. Although I was willing to take on the frustration. Question, are you saying that not all the plastic Sheids have to come off?
Currently in the process of doing this on my wife's car. Definitely a pain in the ass... Thanks for the visuals, this is probably the best video on the subject.
I just paid $966 US for parts + labor for my 2005 Mariner. If I had enough for a down payment for a new car right now, I would have bought a new car instead and wouldn't have bothered with this at all. Thank you for this video that shows in detail how difficult this repair actually is. You saved me hours, possibly days of futility, and frustration which would have resulted in me either junking it after mutilating it or taking it in to a mechanic to have it repaired anyway. The lady at the shop was probably shocked that I didn't seem to mind the price when she told me over the phone how much it was going to cost. I feel like I should take the mechanic out to dinner too. They definitely deserve it! Hmm, Maybe I will? Lol
Took me 6 hrs. with jack stands by myself. You need multiple long extensions and patience. Also, you need a new axle nut because they can only be used once. Get from the Dealer before you start. It's a Torque to Yield type. 32mm. Loosen the nut for the upper right motor mount just before removing the alternator. It's a must. Lift about half an inch only. Also..spray every bolt down 24 hrs. before with 50% Acetone and 50% synthetic tranny fluid mix in a metal sprayer or oiler. Eats the rust and goes deep into the threads. 40 yr. Mechanic trick. Keep parts on a folding table if possible. Good wrenching everyone.
Done it , in my driveway on jack stands. Some of that stuff you can get to from behind the engine over the cross brace with a long extension and wobbler swivel socket
for a $1000 garage price , that will cost you $100, you should say DO IT, or buy another car... lol . in reality it's true , if you've never did it's a big job of patience, but the second time around , it will be an easy breeze , under an hour job, so i say DO IT with confidence.
Thank you for posting this video. Appreciate you taking the time to get light on the subject and set up the camera for shooting. (Aside, some of the audio was missing when I played this; was that normal?) Anyway, I performed this task on a 2003 Mazda Tribute which is very similar to the Escape but it didn't have all the plastic shields and air horns which probably did make it less complicated. It's still a PITA but do-able by a backyard mechanic, took about 4 hours. As you instructed take the driveshaft out of the way, loosen the drive belt, loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up to create a bigger opening for removal, remove the mounting bolts (which was the hardest part), rotate the unit in place to undo the electrical connections, and remove it. Again, not easy by any means but certainly do-able.
It actually takes two and a half hours, read the description I left above. It will save you from having to take apart the axle and anything done below. You can do the entire alternator change from the top.
At 19:25 discussing removing the upper air horn. Once the bolt is removed from the end that secures to the alternator, there is barely any friggin way to pinch both releases. Too little room and too much stuff in the way. I wedged a long screwdriver between the housing and the horn on the drivers side. Then, I pushed the hell out of the other side, using a pickle fork, until it popped off. After screwing with this for about an hour, the extra force and language, persuaded it to let loose. What a PITA. The placement of this alternator must have been an after thought, on the drawing board. It was the only place left to put it. Ah, what the hell, when it's installed on the engine, it's easy to just drop the engine in place, close the hood, and roll it out to the dealer.
I've done it twice, first time took 3 hours, second time took almost 2 hours. Mine didn't have the heat shield on it. getting ready to change it out again, so it's time to sell it and find something else. first alt lasted a little over a year second one lasted 2 months. Ford should have never got in bed with mazda
@@jamesanastasia3237 it helps with keeping the alternator cool. It came from the factory. It should be there but I’ve heard of people saying if you’re not down in the south then it’s really not necessary. The alternator literally has no airflow across it being located where it is. I would try to find that shroud before replacing it again. Because it seems like that is the 2nd alternator for the car you have. Mine is still original with 130k on it. I’d highly recommend keeping in installed
@@Clamjammer well I lucked out!!! I got the battery charged and the alternator checked out at advanced auto an they were both good!!!The reason I thought it didn't have a plastic shroud was because the Marainer doesn't have that funnel shape thing at the top of the engine!!!But thanks anyways!!!
@@Clamjammer found out the problem was my front passenger door has a bad door sensor and was draining the battery!!! I sprayed some wd40 in it and it fixed it!!!🙏🙏🙏
i just replaced this alternator on my 06 escape, it had the original one still in it that finally failed. YOU DONT have to pay someone to do it. All you need is diff size ratchets, socket sets, some ratchet extensions, some wobbly adapters, and AN M8 SIZE TORX SOCKET to take off the top mounting stud, i took the stud out the engine block, and only then i could remove the alternator through the wheel well passenger side. Also, you must remove ALL the plastic shroud from the alternator for it to come out of the wheel well. It took me roughly 12hours over the past two days, it's annoying and hard, but you can do it if you have alot of tools.
Thank you so much for the incredibly detailed and informative video. You're right, no one else showed the extent of the job. the shields are totally unmentioned,but by far the most difficult part of the job. much appreciated.
Thanks for explaining the alternator shroud in a concise way. Definitely taking this job slow. I’m trying the top removal method. You earned your sub from me.
@@carquestions I got it removed without too much fuss, it really takes a lot of patience and due diligence; fighting for one inch at a time to squeeze it out. It’s not a project for being easily frustrated. The knowledge you shared helped put this in context, thank you!
I have to do mine tomorrow,,, wish me luck,,, lol... I have had the alternator for about a month dreading doing it.... gonna be doing it on the driveway,, it’s gonna suck... but there is no way in hell I’m paying a grand to have it installed
@@carquestions Hello..I have a 2005 Mercury Marainer premiere and I was checking out you're UA-cam video because there's a chance I might need a alternator too!!! Quick question, my vehicle doesn't have all the those plastic covers that the Ford has...does that make the job easier?thanks
@@carquestions thanks brother...I'm hoping it's not the alternator and a electrical issue draining (think it's the upper strobe lights)the battery!!!smh..thanks again!!!😉👍
I tried. Couldn't get it out of the top. Couldn't get it out of the bottom. After an entire day of fiddling with it and removing everything to the point of feeling like I had to remove the transfer case, I said I'm done with this damn car.
You have to jack up the passenger side of the engine, and pull forward slightly with a ratchet strap. Then the alternator comes out of the passenger wheel well. I’ve done it 5 times now…😠
@@colindgrant Turned out the last place that owned the car covered up part of the frame to hide the rust. Which made it worse. Rust through the frame. RIP
I own four of these machines that come right out the top by the firewall tie fishing wire around it lifted right out the whole will twist and turn and move the one AC line to the side hell of a lot easier than tearing all the crap out of it
@@carquestions I've been blowing coolant from spark plug hole cause intake gasket has small leak and 3inchs of coolant n plug hole makes my baby sputter under load for the past six months !! Is how eager beaver I is!! Lol!!! To work on my baby!! First I said wait till summer now it's hot n I'm saying wait till fall!! Lol!!
i went up trough top taking out the top stud came out not even touching using a string to pull first I pulled that cover off while it was still down there and then when I put the new one on I put the cover on while it was when I put the new one down there then put the stud back in and slid it over the stud the tops of the and then put the bottom bolts in and Bam we were done connected the wires the speedometer sensor the CO2 sensors and put the cover on put the bolts in the cover put the shroud up from underneath the bottom put the two bolts in cuz I just dropped the shroud yeah that's what I did but everybody's got their way I guess
Seems like the less labor intensive way to do it. I am about to do mine as well next week. Would be my first big job. How long did it take you and what make and model did you have?
@@Int3nseGrind I'm about 2 hours 1 hour to take it out which it would have been less if I would have took the stud out first then it would have came right up put the string on so you can pull it up you know
@@Int3nseGrind yeah definitely just go through the top take out that tops dead you know the bolt will come off of the metal come off first and slide the thing off then take out the stud then come up right through there but you got to take the cover off before you come up
You must have the patience of the Biblical Job to work on the Escape. Maybe this is just one of the reasons alot of folks call these vehicles junk from the get go? I don't know. I have always kind of liked the Escape-call me crazy and don't ask why I just do.
@@carquestions its a great long lasting car if you take care of it, mine is an 06 escape and the ONLY things its had done in those almost 14 years besides routine maintenance, is have the alternator replaced, and the transmission replaced, tranny typically goes out on them between 70-140k mileage, thats their biggest con.
I have a 2005 Ford Escape, is the shroud 100% necessary to have? I am not sure if mine had one when the alternator was replaced 6 months ago...and just failed again. Where can one find this part if it's not there? I haven't had any luck with auto parts stores.
@@carquestions The irony in this is that today, i had to replace the starter in my daughter's 06 Civic... and it was in the same area of her car that my alternator was in mine!! Much shorter repair, though.
UM -YoYo - left and right sides of the car are determined by sitting behind the steering wheel - sooooo - the battery is on the left side of the car like stated in the video
Had mine replace by a shop about 1.5 years ago and it just went out again Just looking at my car noticed there are no shields so off to the salvage yard.
I've got my daughter-in-law's Escape torn apart in my driveway. I can't get the plastic cover off. I wish I'd watched this video first. There's no going back.
Idk, I did a 2004 Mazda Tribune, didn't have to remove any plastic on the backside of the alternator...yes, the CV axle has to come out, which was no big deal, but my biggest problem was getting the son of a b@tch alternator out the damn hole, Mazda even put a alternator bracket in there, easy to remove, 3 10mm bolts and it's out, and that sob still didn't want to come out the freaking hole.....so, what i ended up doing was loosing up the motor mount, i put the floor Jack under the oil pan (carefully) and jacked up the engine to try and get a little more clearance, and after rolling the alt about 10 times, it FINALLY fell outta there, going back with the new one was just as stubborn...took me all damn day to tear it down, had it all put back together in about 2 hrs...the whole job should have been about 4 hrs....haven't ever did the escape...btw, this is no job for amitures...
This is the hard way to do it. First disconnect the battery, use a 3/8 drive ratchet to find the tensioner pulley turning counterclockwise to free the serpentine belt. You can do it within two-and-a-half to three hours tops by yourself if you remove the intake to give you a little wiggle room oh, you don't have to take it completely off just loosen it to where you can move it around about an inch, remove the canister on the back of the firewall, a couple of vacuum lines that run to that canister, two wiring harnesses, and the electric throttle all of these are on the top and all on the passenger side. You will need a couple of flat-head screwdrivers to use as pry bars as needed, 8 mm socket a 10 mm socket and a 13 mm socket to complete the entire job. After you have the top-end off you can reach down and touch the alternator, feel around for the 10 mm nut on the back of the alternator and remove it. On the bottom side of the car, it is easier to have the passenger front wheel removed, also remove the plastic guard that it is covering the alternator. Use your 13 mm socket to loosen all three bolts one of them could be a stud nonetheless they're all 13 mm. After you drop the alternator down turn it around disconnect the wiring harness using a flathead to press in the clip and turn so it's frees the harness from the alternator. No back to the top-end you can pull the alternator up by the pulley with the two both sides of the alternator facing the driver side and the single bolt side of the alternator facing the passenger side. You are going to have to wiggle this and maneuver this but it will come out. At that point is a good time to take a break before reinstalling the new one. When you insert the new one drop it down to the bottom get back underneath the vehicle clip in the wire harness attached your 10 mm nut before putting the three bolts that hold the alternator to the block back in. Once that then go ahead and attach the alternator, put your serpentine belt back on the same way releasing tension on the tensioner. Go back to the top side and reassemble everything that you have removed. Reconnect the battery and make sure the battery symbol on the vehicle is off and you're all set to go. This will save you a ton of time and a ton of Labor trying to remove the axle and the tie rod.
Wow - thanks Carlos - always more than one way to skin a cat - Cheers!
Why this doesn’t have likes is amazing. I’m an A&P airplane mechanic. Well said. Thank you
I'm tempted to try this. Last time I took off the upper intake I remember being amazed how much room it gives.
@@quickdrawmcgraw4394 yeah, I guarantee it's going to save you a lot of time
Thank you for simplifying the procedure. Although I was willing to take on the frustration. Question, are you saying that not all the plastic Sheids have to come off?
Currently in the process of doing this on my wife's car. Definitely a pain in the ass...
Thanks for the visuals, this is probably the best video on the subject.
Still no one shows how to get it out once unbolted. Wtf!
I just paid $966 US for parts + labor for my 2005 Mariner. If I had enough for a down payment for a new car right now, I would have bought a new car instead and wouldn't have bothered with this at all.
Thank you for this video that shows in detail how difficult this repair actually is. You saved me hours, possibly days of futility, and frustration which would have resulted in me either junking it after mutilating it or taking it in to a mechanic to have it repaired anyway.
The lady at the shop was probably shocked that I didn't seem to mind the price when she told me over the phone how much it was going to cost. I feel like I should take the mechanic out to dinner too. They definitely deserve it! Hmm, Maybe I will? Lol
Well if you don't find them handsome you better find them handy - Thanks for the comment Bill - Cheers from Canada!
Took me 6 hrs. with jack stands by myself. You need multiple long extensions and patience. Also, you need a new axle nut because they can only be used once. Get from the Dealer before you start. It's a Torque to Yield type. 32mm. Loosen the nut for the upper right motor mount just before removing the alternator. It's a must. Lift about half an inch only. Also..spray every bolt down 24 hrs. before with 50% Acetone and 50% synthetic tranny fluid mix in a metal sprayer or oiler. Eats the rust and goes deep into the threads. 40 yr. Mechanic trick. Keep parts on a folding table if possible. Good wrenching everyone.
Thanks for the advice and story Andy - Cheers!
Finally someone describes the plastic covers! Thank you
Anytime Chris - Cheers from Canada!
Carlos, thanks for responding. The plastic I'm speaking of is the plastic covering around the starter. It's like a heat shield.
Starter?
I'm sorry, I meant alternator
Do it myself all the time lol@@Zyispreppy
Done it , in my driveway on jack stands. Some of that stuff you can get to from behind the engine over the cross brace with a long extension and wobbler swivel socket
I just did this job.. What a giant PITA!
for a $1000 garage price , that will cost you $100, you should say DO IT, or buy another car... lol . in reality it's true , if you've never did it's a big job of patience, but the second time around , it will be an easy breeze , under an hour job, so i say DO IT with confidence.
Thank you for posting this video. Appreciate you taking the time to get light on the subject and set up the camera for shooting. (Aside, some of the audio was missing when I played this; was that normal?) Anyway, I performed this task on a 2003 Mazda Tribute which is very similar to the Escape but it didn't have all the plastic shields and air horns which probably did make it less complicated. It's still a PITA but do-able by a backyard mechanic, took about 4 hours. As you instructed take the driveshaft out of the way, loosen the drive belt, loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up to create a bigger opening for removal, remove the mounting bolts (which was the hardest part), rotate the unit in place to undo the electrical connections, and remove it. Again, not easy by any means but certainly do-able.
Thank you for doing this video. It was very helpful this weekend.
Glad it was helpful Ray - cheers from Canada!
the man speaks the truth. THIS IS NOT a couple of hours job. WHAT A NIGHTMARE.
It actually takes two and a half hours, read the description I left above. It will save you from having to take apart the axle and anything done below. You can do the entire alternator change from the top.
At 19:25 discussing removing the upper air horn. Once the bolt is removed from the end that secures to the alternator, there is barely any friggin way to pinch both releases. Too little room and too much stuff in the way. I wedged a long screwdriver between the housing and the horn on the drivers side. Then, I pushed the hell out of the other side, using a pickle fork, until it popped off. After screwing with this for about an hour, the extra force and language, persuaded it to let loose. What a PITA. The placement of this alternator must have been an after thought, on the drawing board. It was the only place left to put it. Ah, what the hell, when it's installed on the engine, it's easy to just drop the engine in place, close the hood, and roll it out to the dealer.
I've done it twice, first time took 3 hours, second time took almost 2 hours. Mine didn't have the heat shield on it. getting ready to change it out again, so it's time to sell it and find something else. first alt lasted a little over a year second one lasted 2 months. Ford should have never got in bed with mazda
Stop buying junk alternators. That’s your problem. Buy genuine motorcraft
I have a 2005 Mercury Marainer and it doesn't have all that plastic covering on it..Does it make a difference in replacing the alternator?
@@jamesanastasia3237 it helps with keeping the alternator cool. It came from the factory. It should be there but I’ve heard of people saying if you’re not down in the south then it’s really not necessary. The alternator literally has no airflow across it being located where it is. I would try to find that shroud before replacing it again. Because it seems like that is the 2nd alternator for the car you have. Mine is still original with 130k on it. I’d highly recommend keeping in installed
@@Clamjammer well I lucked out!!! I got the battery charged and the alternator checked out at advanced auto an they were both good!!!The reason I thought it didn't have a plastic shroud was because the Marainer doesn't have that funnel shape thing at the top of the engine!!!But thanks anyways!!!
@@Clamjammer found out the problem was my front passenger door has a bad door sensor and was draining the battery!!! I sprayed some wd40 in it and it fixed it!!!🙏🙏🙏
i just replaced this alternator on my 06 escape, it had the original one still in it that finally failed.
YOU DONT have to pay someone to do it. All you need is diff size ratchets, socket sets, some ratchet extensions, some wobbly adapters, and AN M8 SIZE TORX SOCKET to take off the top mounting stud, i took the stud out the engine block, and only then i could remove the alternator through the wheel well passenger side. Also, you must remove ALL the plastic shroud from the alternator for it to come out of the wheel well. It took me roughly 12hours over the past two days, it's annoying and hard, but you can do it if you have alot of tools.
I have a 2005 Mercury Marainer and the alternator in mine isn't surrounded by any plastic shrouds..Does that make the job easier?
@@jamesanastasia3237 maybe a tiny bit but its still gonna be a pain
Thank you so much for the incredibly detailed and informative video. You're right, no one else showed the extent of the job. the shields are totally unmentioned,but by far the most difficult part of the job. much appreciated.
Anytime - Cheers from Canada!
Thanks for explaining the alternator shroud in a concise way. Definitely taking this job slow. I’m trying the top removal method.
You earned your sub from me.
Thanks Kirk - Good luck - let me know how it goes - cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions I got it removed without too much fuss, it really takes a lot of patience and due diligence; fighting for one inch at a time to squeeze it out. It’s not a project for being easily frustrated. The knowledge you shared helped put this in context, thank you!
Oh yea. The sound keeps dropping out throughout the video. Good explanation, though.
You went silent around 10 minutes in.
I have to do mine tomorrow,,, wish me luck,,, lol... I have had the alternator for about a month dreading doing it.... gonna be doing it on the driveway,, it’s gonna suck... but there is no way in hell I’m paying a grand to have it installed
Ralph - you are truly fearless - good luck to you - thanks and Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions Hello..I have a 2005 Mercury Marainer premiere and I was checking out you're UA-cam video because there's a chance I might need a alternator too!!! Quick question, my vehicle doesn't have all the those plastic covers that the Ford has...does that make the job easier?thanks
@@jamesanastasia3237 ya should make it easier for sure - still no walk in the park
@@carquestions thanks brother...I'm hoping it's not the alternator and a electrical issue draining (think it's the upper strobe lights)the battery!!!smh..thanks again!!!😉👍
I tried. Couldn't get it out of the top. Couldn't get it out of the bottom. After an entire day of fiddling with it and removing everything to the point of feeling like I had to remove the transfer case, I said I'm done with this damn car.
Felt exactly the same way Irzy - Cheers from Canada!
You have to jack up the passenger side of the engine, and pull forward slightly with a ratchet strap. Then the alternator comes out of the passenger wheel well. I’ve done it 5 times now…😠
@@colindgrant Turned out the last place that owned the car covered up part of the frame to hide the rust. Which made it worse. Rust through the frame. RIP
I own four of these machines that come right out the top by the firewall tie fishing wire around it lifted right out the whole will twist and turn and move the one AC line to the side hell of a lot easier than tearing all the crap out of it
you got them out with all shields on them?? Wow! - Cheers from Canada!
Gee Wizz that's big job for alt!!
One of the worst ever - but if you like a challenge....
@@carquestions I've been blowing coolant from spark plug hole cause intake gasket has small leak and 3inchs of coolant n plug hole makes my baby sputter under load for the past six months !! Is how eager beaver I is!! Lol!!! To work on my baby!! First I said wait till summer now it's hot n I'm saying wait till fall!! Lol!!
i did it in 5 hours
John - you are now granted an honorary mechanics licence - well done - Cheers From Canada!
i went up trough top taking out the top stud came out not even touching using a string to pull first I pulled that cover off while it was still down there and then when I put the new one on I put the cover on while it was when I put the new one down there then put the stud back in and slid it over the stud the tops of the and then put the bottom bolts in and Bam we were done connected the wires the speedometer sensor the CO2 sensors and put the cover on put the bolts in the cover put the shroud up from underneath the bottom put the two bolts in cuz I just dropped the shroud yeah that's what I did but everybody's got their way I guess
Nice going 1Lux - shows there is more than one way to skin a cat. - Cheers From Canada!
Seems like the less labor intensive way to do it. I am about to do mine as well next week. Would be my first big job. How long did it take you and what make and model did you have?
@@Int3nseGrind I'm about 2 hours 1 hour to take it out which it would have been less if I would have took the stud out first then it would have came right up put the string on so you can pull it up you know
@@Int3nseGrind 2006 ford escape xlt I think it was my buddy's
@@Int3nseGrind yeah definitely just go through the top take out that tops dead you know the bolt will come off of the metal come off first and slide the thing off then take out the stud then come up right through there but you got to take the cover off before you come up
You must have the patience of the Biblical Job to work on the Escape. Maybe this is just one of the reasons alot of folks call these vehicles junk from the get go? I don't know. I have always kind of liked the Escape-call me crazy and don't ask why I just do.
The Escape is a good car - long lasting - just really hard to change the alternator
@@carquestions its a great long lasting car if you take care of it, mine is an 06 escape and the ONLY things its had done in those almost 14 years besides routine maintenance, is have the alternator replaced, and the transmission replaced, tranny typically goes out on them between 70-140k mileage, thats their biggest con.
I am a technician mechanic and this is not 1/2 or 3 hours job. I have spend more time replacing the shields than replacing the alternator.
I have a 2005 Ford Escape, is the shroud 100% necessary to have? I am not sure if mine had one when the alternator was replaced 6 months ago...and just failed again. Where can one find this part if it's not there? I haven't had any luck with auto parts stores.
TV - sorry to say it's probably a dealer only part
@@carquestions Thanks for the fast reply, great video! Is the shroud 100% necessary to have? I don't want to have to go through this a 3rd time.
Yup. Took all day
Well done Chris - Cheers from Canada!
Damn, all finished. And no spare parts.
It was a close one Dennis cheers
@@carquestions The irony in this is that today, i had to replace the starter in my daughter's 06 Civic... and it was in the same area of her car that my alternator was in mine!! Much shorter repair, though.
Why didn't you show taking it out of the car
I tried - needed two hands
@@carquestions it was a real b
Um right side, is the battery
UM -YoYo - left and right sides of the car are determined by sitting behind the steering wheel - sooooo - the battery is on the left side of the car like stated in the video
Had mine replace by a shop about 1.5 years ago and it just went out again Just looking at my car noticed there are no shields so off to the salvage yard.
Ya Brother - the shields are a pain so lots of mechanics don't bother putting them back on - but they are there for a reason - Cheers!
I've got my daughter-in-law's Escape torn apart in my driveway. I can't get the plastic cover off. I wish I'd watched this video first. There's no going back.
Lots of mechanics break them and never put them back on just so you know
Unfortunateky I must, I have to replace the engine cover gaskets and not pulling the engine out.
Good luck - let me know how it turns out - Cheers!
@@carquestions decided to pull the whole engine.
@@jaimeramirez4766 Wow - good going!
I did this r&r two night ago. Was not fun.
I feel for you
That’s one of those PITA jobs I refuse to do unless it’s replaced with oem parts from dealer.
Agreed
@@carquestions you live in Cambridge too
This was a pain in the anus. Thank you ford🤕
I guess Im pretty off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream new series online?
@Korbyn Harrison Try flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
@Korbyn Harrison I would suggest FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
I can't get to the top bolt on the alternator ... Close Caption ain't helping
Sorry Chancey - you do that one by feel only - good luck
That's what you get for buying the 6..stick with the 4.
yep
me with bifocals no thanks heheh
Idk, I did a 2004 Mazda Tribune, didn't have to remove any plastic on the backside of the alternator...yes, the CV axle has to come out, which was no big deal, but my biggest problem was getting the son of a b@tch alternator out the damn hole, Mazda even put a alternator bracket in there, easy to remove, 3 10mm bolts and it's out, and that sob still didn't want to come out the freaking hole.....so, what i ended up doing was loosing up the motor mount, i put the floor Jack under the oil pan (carefully) and jacked up the engine to try and get a little more clearance, and after rolling the alt about 10 times, it FINALLY fell outta there, going back with the new one was just as stubborn...took me all damn day to tear it down, had it all put back together in about 2 hrs...the whole job should have been about 4 hrs....haven't ever did the escape...btw, this is no job for amitures...
Good tips - thanks
If you pull the passenger side of the engine forward after you lift it, that will help make more space too.