I got my lbz in great condition. 2006, it had an old magnaflow 3 inch to a 4 inch tip with a muffler. A little edge programmer with 4 tunes from back in the day. I purchased the truck for 13k, got a loan for 16k and had a fass 150, egr delete, 5 inch straight pipe with 6 inch tip, ppei efi live with on the fly switch, banks ram air intake, 3 inch mbrp downpipe and a y-bridge with a cool side charge pipe. Looking to do a hot side charge pipe and a trans tune next.
Thanks for all the information. Here in Canada, most of these trucks were bought up by Americans and exported. It took me five years to find a reasonable truck. Just got a 2007 Silverado Classic (LBZ/Allison). It wasn't cheap as mentioned. But $24K with 60,000 miles, I am happy.
I love my 2007 GMC Sierra Classic- Duramax. I got it used in 2009, Only had about 32-3300 miles on it then, still basically a new truck. I had it 100% stock until the last 6 months, before, never done anything except, tires, battery, oil & fuel. Recently dealt with a low fuel pressure that had become increasingly problematic, and installed a 100g Fass Fuel system, Have not put any tuner, though I may in the future just to see what else I can do to gain a little more power, no interest to push anywhere close to 700 hp, so pistons should not be an issue. I have not done any EGR delete as of yet either. I did recently note the appearance of small leak on trans lines, While I was replacing front end alignment components, So I will be addressing that next. My truck was driven very little for a few years, from like 2014-2018, as I had other company vehicles, And I still mostly drive it on weekends to pull horse trailers, etc... so I plan to take care of it so it’ll be around another 10-20 years.
I put grade c head gaskets & a head stud kit on mine. I went ahead and ordered a welded ac delco water pump and put a rebuild kit on the oil cooler while I had it torn apart. 320k on the truck at the time and the cross hatch was still visible. Still running great!
I’m getting a 06 LBZ that my dads had since I was born and the only thing that’s gone out is the turbo and we just replaced that. For a 16 year old truck that’s amazing! LLY, LB7, and LBZ are all great trucks!
i just bought one 4 months ago and within a month i had to replace the trans cooler line and the water pump but other than that i tow 10k plus pounds and it feels like nothing. Worth the Money for sure
I know this was a while ago but there is a plug in in your transmission near the back and sometimes some moisture. So I used electric contact cleaner and spayed it out put it back in and never had a problem with it, oh and use dextron IV instead of 3
Love my 06 LBZ! Bought in a short sale from someone in Temecula CA in 09 with 21k. I’ve replaced the trans cool lines, and entire front end because the previous owner had torsion bars maxed and caused damage (1st yr of ownership). Fixed that, added a lift (6), and fixed the rattling in the steering column from TB issue. Since then I’ve put 110k on it and it’s still a beast. Highly recommended.
I lived in Temecula from 1995 to 2013 and diesel pickup trucks were very popular in Southern California, they were being sold as soon as they hit the dealerships. I almost bought a 2005 LLY but the dealer was too unreasonable so in 2006 I bought a new Silverado extended cab with the LBZ from a dealer in Oakdale, CA. They had two trucks that were identically equipped (loaded) except for the color, one was a dark gray metal flake and the other was silver like the one in the video. My son wanted me to get the dark grey but I went with the silver. The only thing I have done to the truck has been to put a leveling kit on the front end and some 17" chrome wheels, otherwise it is bone stock. Because I had other vehicles, it didn't get driven very much but I still have it and still love to drive it. Other than replacing the original batteries, I have had no problems with it. I try to drive it at least once a week and it still drives like when it was new, has 54,000 miles on it.
For those looking to buy a LBZ... 2006 LLY is the same engine as a LBZ. Only difference is tuning. Common concerns I saw at the dealer... Turbo failure in the 140-160k miles range. High injector balance rates around the same mileage as turbo failures. Cleaning can help but it just prolongs the inevitable injector replacement. An of course, all Dmax engines could use a lift pump with better filtration to increase longevity. High oil temp is a concern here in AZ, but mainly because most people are towing over GVW of the truck while trying to do 80-85 mph up a hill. Not the truck's fault drivers need education on proper towing.
I own an 06 LBZ crew cab, long bed, 4WD lifted 6" on 37' tires that I have towed my 15,500 GVW 5th wheel and have 265,XXX miles on it. Along with the two water pumps, Finally paid to use the Dmax wtr pump) power steering and trans cooler lines, two steering boxes (finally went with Red Hed Steering) I had to do the head gaskets. The passenger side rear cylinder seems to have an issue where the water jacket is too colse to the combustion chamber and it was failing. Other than those issues it is still a strong running engine and a lot of fun to drive.
My LBZ truck didn’t come with a power steering cooler. Which caused the deterioration of the hoses, seals and fluid. Power steering system also operates the brakes. (Hydro boost)
I have an 06 GMC 2500 with the crew cab and the long bed. Man is that a long truck. It's got a 6" lift that the first owner put on it. I think I would have preferred a more stock vehicle, but it is what it is. I've owned it for a little over a year now and have had to do a fair bit of work on it, mostly related to the cooling system. I did replace the water pump almost immediately, because it was leaking. I rebuilt the oil cooler because of a coolant leak there. I replaced the quick connector on the heater core. Replaced the blower controller for the cab heater/AC. I also made the mistake of putting water in my fuel and didn't notice until it had already gotten into the high pressure lines, so I ended up replacing all the injectors and the fuel pump. I was able to clean all of the metal fuel lines with CLR and flush them with clean diesel fuel so I could reuse those lines, but I went ahead and spent the money for all new rubber lines. I had to replace a broken parking brake cable. Replaced the hydro boost. Replaced all the brake lines with stainless steel lines. There was a transmission leak inside the bell housing that I payed a local transmission shop to take care of, and while they had everything apart they took care of the transfer case rub issue. Right now I'm waiting on the lower radiator hose, because I'm pretty sure that hose just started to fail where it connects to the water pump. The weep hole was dry, so I'm pretty sure it is the hose. I have seen a little bit of oil on some of the transmission cooler lines, so I'm sure that will be the next thing I have to do. Maybe this truck will be reliable for me after this, but who knows.
I have a 06 LBZ CCLB with almost half a million miles. Water pump and thermostats hyrdroboost is all that has failed on mine have had it since day 1. 0-288xxx all business hauling heavy equipment from state to state, 288-457 all personal miles camping etc. all in all I’m impressed. All fluids and filter changed on the regular to get this far along with ALL ac delco parts not the knock offs.
About that Allison transmission: 1st thing you should do is install a transgo shift kit jr and deep/xtra capacity transmission pan. This will definitely help extend the life of the Allison transmission by making those shifts nice and firm, less susceptible to slipping and keep the transmission fluid cooler, longer. It's a really inexpensive insurance IMHO....and this goes for stock, tuned, built...doesn't matter, just do it.
@@LordNotlek absolutely. At the very least I'd install the deeper pan and change the spin off filter every time you change the fuel filter...every 6-10K miles. If the truck has any mods to increase horsepower I also install the transgo. Cheap insurance to keep that ally running strong for as long as possible. I would also recommend changing the oil pan to a deeper pan too while your at it. Again, more oil the better. I use Mibile Delvac Super 1300 15w-40 and the duramax loves it.
Great video. To add to it 4wd Transfer case pump rub that wears a hole in the case of the the transfer case itself and creates a leak. Because of the leak you run your transfer case out fluid and burn up your transfer case. Power steering and trans lines like to leak. Idle arm on the steering like bend especially with bigger tires. Tie rods look like there from a Chevy s10 and should be upgraded if doing a lot in 4wd with heavy loads or bigger tires. Water pump leaks as mentioned. The y bridge on the intake is a two piece design with a o ring that likes to have a boost leak with a truck with high mileage. Stock intercooler pipes have a reversed bead roll for clamping there for making the boot and pipe blow off under high boast. Stock steel brake lines like to rust out especially in the salt belt states. Stock trans cooler is not the most efficient thing in the world especially when towing.
Not to mention that boost leaks are a common issue in almost every duramax I’ve had to fix boost leaks on mine and when you have boost leaks it really reduces the power a little bit too
I picked up a one owner 2006 25000hd chev duramax from a Mennonite for 2500$ truck is a Silverado LT and never had a radio in it . Runs and drives like almost New!
I know this video was about LBZs but could you swap an LBZ cooling system onto an LLY to get rid of the potential head gasket and overheating issue. Is the LLY water pump issue worse than the LBZ?
I just replaced front suspension parts on my 2007 Classic 2500 HD with overbuilt MOOG parts. Steers much better. 160,000 miles and runs like a top. I treat mine annually with Fluid Film to stop rust.
I still feel iv got the best deal. Picked up my 07 up in 2013 black on black wheels crew cab for 12k an 120k miles, it was lifted on 37s intake 5in exhaust an ppe tune.
I just bought a 07 3500 LT with 220xxkm rust free bone stock for $14k Canadian drove it 6 hours home I would take this truck over a brand new 6.7 power stroke any day (I’m a mechanic for the local ford dealer)
@@isaacrecord6162 I agree. As long as everything in the fuel system is working as designed and you are running stock ecm tunes it is near impossible to prove a longevity gain by using a lift pump. To me, the longevity gain of a lift pump becomes more evident as the common fuel system leaks happen... Porous fuel filter housing, leak from the bleed screw, leak from the hand primer pump seals, leak from the water in fuel sensor seal. Because the low pressure side of the fuel system is under vacuum you normally will not see these fuel leaks until the system has been sucking air for who knows how long. Air has little to no lubrication properties and hurts longevity. If you decide to run a lift pump the low side of the fuel system is now pressurized (normally under 10psi) so instead of sucking air you will see what looks like sweating on the fuel filter housing where the small leak is. If you pay close attention to maintenance a lift pump will not help longevity, but most of us tend to get lazy and not inspect stuff as often as we should. That is where a lift pump can help. And more/better filtration does not hurt either.
Just got an 06 lbz wondering what I should do to keep it in good shape. It sat for a couple years and I put battery into it and started right up. Then shit off and clicks it won’t start. It has 537,xxx miles on it
300,000 miles on my LBZ. Has had a 100hp Kory Willis tune in it for the past 100k. Absolutely no issues whatsoever with the Allison. Still shifts like new
Fun fact a 1000 series Allison is a 1000 series Allison you can convert a 5 speed behind an lb7 to 6 speed with push button shift and all you have to swap the valve body shifter etc. And there is some tuning involved obviously but you'll never regret it I love my lb7 injectors fail in all trucks sooner or later people just cry because you have to pull the valve covers I'll admit that was a bad design but every powerstroke up until 2011 is way worse to change the injectors same thing under the valve covers I'm a Diesel mechanic by trade I don't worry about swapping the injectors when mine fail because it's not a big deal it may take a first timer longer but it's not that bad and honestly for me and alot of other enthusiasts working on them is half the fun I just happen to have the fortunate ability to know how to work on them quickly and realitivly easily
I am wondering what my 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6 diesel quad cab truck is worth with the injector problem and the head gasket problem and a power steering leakage issue?
My 2006-2007 LBZ sierra 3500 duramax has a P0540 code and both the heater and glow plug controller that this P0540 code addresses is unable to be purchased. Everyone i have talked to have stated that the parts are no longer available and they are unlikely to be made. The GMC dealership said too bad. The only way you can get them is to buy used ones and 80% of those don't work. This has caused me to fail emissions and the truck can no longer be registered. I've wondered how they can stop providing parts when there are thousands of these vehicles on the road. I have noted in my calls that everyone who sold these before says they have had a run on them and no longer can get them. Other than that the truck runs great, smooth, and powerfully and it is a joy to drive. LOL
I have a fully deleted lbz and I expected my fuel mileage to get better but it’s gotten much worse. I’m not sure why but I think I’m getting air in my lines somehow
Lol I bought an LBZ with 190k and the damned trans cooler lines blew right off the transmission 24 hours after I bought it. I recommend everyone upgrade those bad boys before you get stranded like I did.
Generally speaking a truck is only as good as the owner who is willing to work on it. Every vehicle has it's pros and cons it just comes down to the battles you want to fight
I want an lb7 and am thinking about selling my tundra for one. Not sure if thats a bad decision or not. I just prefer lb7’s. They’re cheaper and sound amazing and should last if taken care of.
Guys, I'm hoping to buy a flatbed work truck tomorrow at auction.... I found a 2006 single cab with a nice flatbed with 290k miles, GREAT physical condition... looking for you guys to help with what my max price should be??
Don't forget replacing the tensioner and all pulleys every 100,000 miles. Mileage may vary with the belt but it's not a bad idea to replace it with the pulleys
Dylan I have an 07 GMC 2500 HD Duramax with 186-187,000 miles, Have used it for years as my company truck, along with a 04 Chevy 2500hd -Gas & other company vehicles, after I shut my company down, I sold most of the other vehicles but opted to keep the 07 and use as my personal truck. As I said I used it to pull many company trailers and haul heavy loads - with zero issues. We too have horses and I had used both it and the 04 Chevy to pull a 4 horse bumper pull. Both would pull rather easily, but with the Gas engine... you could feel the load, with the 07 Duramax, it’s easy to forget your pulling a trailer and 4 horses , weighing approx 10,000lbs. All that being said, I recently purchased a used 3 horse gooseneck with a living quarters and I was concerned that my Duramax might not be suitable & I may have to get into a 3500 Dually or something. It’s definitely much much heavier but the truck pulls it with no problem, Only 2 issues that I had & have to address with the weight over the wheels with the gooseneck is suspension- I’m looking to beef up the leaf springs and most likely add a airbag system to raise the rear when I load down the gooseneck- it doesn’t squat too bad but drops about 2” when I lower the heavy living Qtr trailer. The other issue I addressed was power as I had began to experience lower fuel pressure, so I got me a Fass Fuel system- only got the 100, not the 165, but it’s working superb & I can cruise down highway effortlessly at 75-80 if I’d like with fully loaded trailer. I would guess, fully loaded it may be getting up to 12-13,000 lbs. Good truck and it’ll pull anything you need , may have to do a few minor improvements.
07 3500 cc 4x4 296000 , replaced transfer case , shift cable , bump stops , brakelines , front wheel bearings and all brakelines , 5000 on oil change , not a drop low . 16 mpg @ 8400 lbs , it my main all around work , tow truck , its my last truck and i have a llot of asphalt to see yet, she's a doozy !
What do y’all think about 2006 Duramax 2500 with 70k miles & one owner? They want 36k Truck has a lift on it. I want to use it to get into being a hotshot. Would y’all bite??
I bought a 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD crew cab long bed 4WD 6.6L Duramax turbo diesel with 110K miles, in excellent condition, back in 2016 for 22K. 36k seems a bit high.
Real problem is trying to find one that hasn't been owned by a fuckwit tune-tard , so many of the 01-05s have been, so honestly idc I expect to pay 20k on a half decently maintained 06
My truck falls on its face when I get on it . Low rail pressure . Shop said replace fuel pressure regulator. Truck has 220k should I just rebuild or replace cp3
Here’s a question my 06 Duramax I have had a second EGR valve put on and within 30 minutes the check engine light pops back on. I had one on it. It kept doing it. They took it off. I bought a Chevy one and picked that up today within 30 minutes to check engine light Code popped up again 402. Anybody have a clue what the heck is going on cause I sure don’t.
1st common problem with LBZ is-
The owners think they are gold and want WAY too much for them.
Thats why I bought a florida rust free lly 1 owner sunroof truck GMC SLT 4X4 ccsb. Couldn't justify the lbz tax for that 1 extra gear.
I got my lbz in great condition. 2006, it had an old magnaflow 3 inch to a 4 inch tip with a muffler. A little edge programmer with 4 tunes from back in the day. I purchased the truck for 13k, got a loan for 16k and had a fass 150, egr delete, 5 inch straight pipe with 6 inch tip, ppei efi live with on the fly switch, banks ram air intake, 3 inch mbrp downpipe and a y-bridge with a cool side charge pipe. Looking to do a hot side charge pipe and a trans tune next.
Not as bad as cummins owners😂
Yes we do, but people want them!
@@chandlerthoma9173 182,000.
Just picked up a LBZ 3500 with 170k miles for $13,500, previous owners were elderly and owned horses. Seems like a good buy
Damn that is a steal if it's 4x4. Looking to buy one tomorrow with 220k for 18$k.
Thanks for all the information. Here in Canada, most of these trucks were bought up by Americans and exported. It took me five years to find a reasonable truck. Just got a 2007 Silverado Classic (LBZ/Allison). It wasn't cheap as mentioned. But $24K with 60,000 miles, I am happy.
Paid hella cash
I love my 2007 GMC Sierra Classic- Duramax. I got it used in 2009,
Only had about 32-3300 miles on it then, still basically a new truck.
I had it 100% stock until the last 6 months, before, never done anything except, tires, battery, oil & fuel.
Recently dealt with a low fuel pressure that had become increasingly problematic, and installed a 100g Fass Fuel system,
Have not put any tuner, though I may in the future just to see what else I can do to gain a little more power, no interest to push anywhere close to 700 hp, so pistons should not be an issue.
I have not done any EGR delete as of yet either.
I did recently note the appearance of small leak on trans lines,
While I was replacing front end alignment components,
So I will be addressing that next.
My truck was driven very little for a few years, from like 2014-2018, as I had other company vehicles,
And I still mostly drive it on weekends to pull horse trailers, etc... so I plan to take care of it so it’ll be around another 10-20 years.
Thanks for the info! I was going to buy a newer truck. But now i'm thinking about buying the "best" of the little older trucks. Just doing home work.
If it’s a 4wd the transfer case pump rub fix may be worth mentioning.
Yeah, been through that.
How do you check for it again?
Great video this helps me a lot. Im looking at buying a LBZ this evening. Thank you!
Only problem I have with my 07 LBZ Duramax is I only have one. I’d love to have several. I love my truck.
I put grade c head gaskets & a head stud kit on mine. I went ahead and ordered a welded ac delco water pump and put a rebuild kit on the oil cooler while I had it torn apart. 320k on the truck at the time and the cross hatch was still visible. Still running great!
I’m getting a 06 LBZ that my dads had since I was born and the only thing that’s gone out is the turbo and we just replaced that. For a 16 year old truck that’s amazing! LLY, LB7, and LBZ are all great trucks!
How many miles does it have?
I love my 2007 GMC LBZ. 200k miles and still running like the day I bought it. 🤞🏻
I am about to adjust the valve lash on mine... same thing 280k km so a little less than your 200k miles.
@@tyrelritchie9326any problems so far? Im looking at one guy wants 16k truck has 275k miles so its up there.. what do you think?
@@manuelcastillo0907was it in Collierville TN?
i just bought one 4 months ago and within a month i had to replace the trans cooler line and the water pump but other than that i tow 10k plus pounds and it feels like nothing. Worth the Money for sure
I got my 07 LBZ for $9k at 270k miles. Runs strong
Same injectors are bad tho
Same price too
That’s insane, they’re going for $20k with 300k miles while being completely rusted out and romped to shit.
Hell yeah brother 🤘🏼
Where Located? That's cheap
Couldn't agree more, I have an 06 lbz with 437xxx miles. Aside from routine maintenance, the only problem I've came across is the trans limp mode
May i ask what the trans limp mode is?
I just received an 06 lbz with 340,000 and want to know what to look for. Thanks
I know this was a while ago but there is a plug in in your transmission near the back and sometimes some moisture. So I used electric contact cleaner and spayed it out put it back in and never had a problem with it, oh and use dextron IV instead of 3
Love my 06 LBZ! Bought in a short sale from someone in Temecula CA in 09 with 21k. I’ve replaced the trans cool lines, and entire front end because the previous owner had torsion bars maxed and caused damage (1st yr of ownership). Fixed that, added a lift (6), and fixed the rattling in the steering column from TB issue. Since then I’ve put 110k on it and it’s still a beast. Highly recommended.
I lived in Temecula from 1995 to 2013 and diesel pickup trucks were very popular in Southern California, they were being sold as soon as they hit the dealerships. I almost bought a 2005 LLY but the dealer was too unreasonable so in 2006 I bought a new Silverado extended cab with the LBZ from a dealer in Oakdale, CA. They had two trucks that were identically equipped (loaded) except for the color, one was a dark gray metal flake and the other was silver like the one in the video. My son wanted me to get the dark grey but I went with the silver. The only thing I have done to the truck has been to put a leveling kit on the front end and some 17" chrome wheels, otherwise it is bone stock. Because I had other vehicles, it didn't get driven very much but I still have it and still love to drive it. Other than replacing the original batteries, I have had no problems with it. I try to drive it at least once a week and it still drives like when it was new, has 54,000 miles on it.
For those looking to buy a LBZ... 2006 LLY is the same engine as a LBZ. Only difference is tuning.
Common concerns I saw at the dealer... Turbo failure in the 140-160k miles range. High injector balance rates around the same mileage as turbo failures. Cleaning can help but it just prolongs the inevitable injector replacement. An of course, all Dmax engines could use a lift pump with better filtration to increase longevity. High oil temp is a concern here in AZ, but mainly because most people are towing over GVW of the truck while trying to do 80-85 mph up a hill. Not the truck's fault drivers need education on proper towing.
Not even close. The block is completely different. Make sure your brains are loaded before you go spouting off crap you think your an expert on.
I own an 06 LBZ crew cab, long bed, 4WD lifted 6" on 37' tires that I have towed my 15,500 GVW 5th wheel and have 265,XXX miles on it. Along with the two water pumps, Finally paid to use the Dmax wtr pump) power steering and trans cooler lines, two steering boxes (finally went with Red Hed Steering) I had to do the head gaskets. The passenger side rear cylinder seems to have an issue where the water jacket is too colse to the combustion chamber and it was failing. Other than those issues it is still a strong running engine and a lot of fun to drive.
I just bought a LBZ good to know some of these thank you
My LBZ truck didn’t come with a power steering cooler. Which caused the deterioration of the hoses, seals and fluid. Power steering system also operates the brakes. (Hydro boost)
07 lbz 3500 LT 392k and still runs great. Regular maintenance and the usual leaking coolant and tranny lines. I love my truck.
I have an 06 GMC 2500 with the crew cab and the long bed. Man is that a long truck. It's got a 6" lift that the first owner put on it. I think I would have preferred a more stock vehicle, but it is what it is. I've owned it for a little over a year now and have had to do a fair bit of work on it, mostly related to the cooling system. I did replace the water pump almost immediately, because it was leaking. I rebuilt the oil cooler because of a coolant leak there. I replaced the quick connector on the heater core. Replaced the blower controller for the cab heater/AC. I also made the mistake of putting water in my fuel and didn't notice until it had already gotten into the high pressure lines, so I ended up replacing all the injectors and the fuel pump. I was able to clean all of the metal fuel lines with CLR and flush them with clean diesel fuel so I could reuse those lines, but I went ahead and spent the money for all new rubber lines. I had to replace a broken parking brake cable. Replaced the hydro boost. Replaced all the brake lines with stainless steel lines. There was a transmission leak inside the bell housing that I payed a local transmission shop to take care of, and while they had everything apart they took care of the transfer case rub issue. Right now I'm waiting on the lower radiator hose, because I'm pretty sure that hose just started to fail where it connects to the water pump. The weep hole was dry, so I'm pretty sure it is the hose. I have seen a little bit of oil on some of the transmission cooler lines, so I'm sure that will be the next thing I have to do. Maybe this truck will be reliable for me after this, but who knows.
I have a 06 LBZ CCLB with almost half a million miles. Water pump and thermostats hyrdroboost is all that has failed on mine have had it since day 1. 0-288xxx all business hauling heavy equipment from state to state, 288-457 all personal miles camping etc. all in all I’m impressed. All fluids and filter changed on the regular to get this far along with ALL ac delco parts not the knock offs.
About that Allison transmission: 1st thing you should do is install a transgo shift kit jr and deep/xtra capacity transmission pan. This will definitely help extend the life of the Allison transmission by making those shifts nice and firm, less susceptible to slipping and keep the transmission fluid cooler, longer. It's a really inexpensive insurance IMHO....and this goes for stock, tuned, built...doesn't matter, just do it.
What about a stock ally with 310k on it already?
@@LordNotlek absolutely. At the very least I'd install the deeper pan and change the spin off filter every time you change the fuel filter...every 6-10K miles. If the truck has any mods to increase horsepower I also install the transgo. Cheap insurance to keep that ally running strong for as long as possible.
I would also recommend changing the oil pan to a deeper pan too while your at it. Again, more oil the better. I use Mibile Delvac Super 1300 15w-40 and the duramax loves it.
Great video. To add to it 4wd Transfer case pump rub that wears a hole in the case of the the transfer case itself and creates a leak. Because of the leak you run your transfer case out fluid and burn up your transfer case. Power steering and trans lines like to leak. Idle arm on the steering like bend especially with bigger tires. Tie rods look like there from a Chevy s10 and should be upgraded if doing a lot in 4wd with heavy loads or bigger tires. Water pump leaks as mentioned. The y bridge on the intake is a two piece design with a o ring that likes to have a boost leak with a truck with high mileage. Stock intercooler pipes have a reversed bead roll for clamping there for making the boot and pipe blow off under high boast. Stock steel brake lines like to rust out especially in the salt belt states. Stock trans cooler is not the most efficient thing in the world especially when towing.
Not to mention that boost leaks are a common issue in almost every duramax I’ve had to fix boost leaks on mine and when you have boost leaks it really reduces the power a little bit too
Where is the most common boost leak location?
@@BenefitExploits y bridge
Just picked up an 07 LBZ with 124,000 miles for 12k, couldn’t be happier
That’s a steal
great advise I am buying an lbz
I just traded my 2012 rt charger for an 07 LBZ duramax. Best decision I’ve made seeming how I live in Maine and our winters SUCK
Great choice!!
My dad has a 2005 lly and it has 430 k still going strong
Did y’all have to replace the injectors at all
@@rrrrrrr9859 no but im goint to rebuild my transmission soon
Dam mine has 185 and I think the head gaskets are blown
It's all stock besides exhaust.
Impressive
I picked up a one owner 2006 25000hd chev duramax from a Mennonite for 2500$ truck is a Silverado LT and never had a radio in it . Runs and drives like almost New!
Great video thanks brother
So basically if you keep it stock it’s a super reliable truck
Great video though i havent studied lbz’s much yet!
Really helpful video. Can't decide between this and a 7.3 powerstroke. Thanks
@@chandlerthoma9173 the only reason why Ford made the switch was because of emissions. How many times have you fiddled with injectors on yours?
@@chandlerthoma9173 - you've got a unicorn. Keep it forever, or sell it for $30K lol
LBZ all day
Depends on what you want longevity wise 7.3, duramax is going to be more sporty stock for stock.
I know this video was about LBZs but could you swap an LBZ cooling system onto an LLY to get rid of the potential head gasket and overheating issue. Is the LLY water pump issue worse than the LBZ?
I just replaced front suspension parts on my 2007 Classic 2500 HD with overbuilt MOOG parts. Steers much better. 160,000 miles and runs like a top. I treat mine annually with Fluid Film to stop rust.
I still feel iv got the best deal. Picked up my 07 up in 2013 black on black wheels crew cab for 12k an 120k miles, it was lifted on 37s intake 5in exhaust an ppe tune.
Heard of a lot of stock lbz with cracked pistons and two piece cranks
Bought one for 16g with 130,000 miles but the markets crazy 2006 lbz
I just bought a 07 3500 LT with 220xxkm rust free bone stock for $14k Canadian drove it 6 hours home I would take this truck over a brand new 6.7 power stroke any day (I’m a mechanic for the local ford dealer)
Weird that you wouldn’t bring up the low side vacuum fuel system that wrecked most of these trucks for many years, or the transfer case pump rub.
The Duramax CP3 was designed for it though. Other than sales brochures, there’s no proof that a lift pump does anything for longevity
@@isaacrecord6162 I agree. As long as everything in the fuel system is working as designed and you are running stock ecm tunes it is near impossible to prove a longevity gain by using a lift pump. To me, the longevity gain of a lift pump becomes more evident as the common fuel system leaks happen... Porous fuel filter housing, leak from the bleed screw, leak from the hand primer pump seals, leak from the water in fuel sensor seal. Because the low pressure side of the fuel system is under vacuum you normally will not see these fuel leaks until the system has been sucking air for who knows how long. Air has little to no lubrication properties and hurts longevity. If you decide to run a lift pump the low side of the fuel system is now pressurized (normally under 10psi) so instead of sucking air you will see what looks like sweating on the fuel filter housing where the small leak is. If you pay close attention to maintenance a lift pump will not help longevity, but most of us tend to get lazy and not inspect stuff as often as we should. That is where a lift pump can help. And more/better filtration does not hurt either.
I think my lines are leaking can't drive and when I put fluid in you can see the fluid leak
Just got an 06 lbz wondering what I should do to keep it in good shape. It sat for a couple years and I put battery into it and started right up. Then shit off and clicks it won’t start. It has 537,xxx miles on it
300,000 miles on my LBZ. Has had a 100hp Kory Willis tune in it for the past 100k. Absolutely no issues whatsoever with the Allison. Still shifts like new
Fun fact a 1000 series Allison is a 1000 series Allison you can convert a 5 speed behind an lb7 to 6 speed with push button shift and all you have to swap the valve body shifter etc. And there is some tuning involved obviously but you'll never regret it I love my lb7 injectors fail in all trucks sooner or later people just cry because you have to pull the valve covers I'll admit that was a bad design but every powerstroke up until 2011 is way worse to change the injectors same thing under the valve covers I'm a Diesel mechanic by trade I don't worry about swapping the injectors when mine fail because it's not a big deal it may take a first timer longer but it's not that bad and honestly for me and alot of other enthusiasts working on them is half the fun I just happen to have the fortunate ability to know how to work on them quickly and realitivly easily
biggest problem with my LBZ is every time i stop to get fuel, someone is trying to buy it off of me.
I am wondering what my 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6 diesel quad cab truck is worth with the injector problem and the head gasket problem and a power steering leakage issue?
If its really clean with not many miles you can sell it between $5k-$7k. To fix it will cost around $3k+
My 2006-2007 LBZ sierra 3500 duramax has a P0540 code and both the heater and glow plug controller that this P0540 code addresses is unable to be purchased. Everyone i have talked to have stated that the parts are no longer available and they are unlikely to be made. The GMC dealership said too bad. The only way you can get them is to buy used ones and 80% of those don't work. This has caused me to fail emissions and the truck can no longer be registered. I've wondered how they can stop providing parts when there are thousands of these vehicles on the road. I have noted in my calls that everyone who sold these before says they have had a run on them and no longer can get them. Other than that the truck runs great, smooth, and powerfully and it is a joy to drive. LOL
I have a fully deleted lbz and I expected my fuel mileage to get better but it’s gotten much worse. I’m not sure why but I think I’m getting air in my lines somehow
Do NOT BLOCK YOUR EGR, do it right and remove it with the right parts. Or you'll be breaking parts.
Lol I bought an LBZ with 190k and the damned trans cooler lines blew right off the transmission 24 hours after I bought it. I recommend everyone upgrade those bad boys before you get stranded like I did.
Came across a 06 lbz with 157k miles they are asking for 20k what would be a good price for it ?
Generally speaking a truck is only as good as the owner who is willing to work on it. Every vehicle has it's pros and cons it just comes down to the battles you want to fight
I got my 07 lbz dually for $3500 with 246 k miles
Where o have cash right now I’m located in Cali
I want an lb7 and am thinking about selling my tundra for one. Not sure if thats a bad decision or not. I just prefer lb7’s. They’re cheaper and sound amazing and should last if taken care of.
Guys, I'm hoping to buy a flatbed work truck tomorrow at auction.... I found a 2006 single cab with a nice flatbed with 290k miles, GREAT physical condition... looking for you guys to help with what my max price should be??
Don't forget replacing the tensioner and all pulleys every 100,000 miles. Mileage may vary with the belt but it's not a bad idea to replace it with the pulleys
Thats ALL gm trucks hahahah
I’m looking at a 07 LBZ crew dually 4wd with whatever the luxury package is. Mint looking flatbed with 204k miles. They’re asking $23k
way too expensive for an 07
Yeah you can get one for 17 that has nearly 300k on it. 23k is way too much but they are worth 40k to me as a truck. Best duramax ever. No emission bs
What do you guys think about an 07 2500 with 160k for $22k? Too much?
What about towing? Looking to get a older Diesel to haul horses around?
Dylan I have an 07 GMC 2500 HD Duramax with 186-187,000 miles,
Have used it for years as my company truck, along with a 04 Chevy 2500hd -Gas & other company vehicles, after I shut my company down, I sold most of the other vehicles but opted to keep the 07 and use as my personal truck.
As I said I used it to pull many company trailers and haul heavy loads - with zero issues.
We too have horses and I had used both it and the 04 Chevy to pull a 4 horse bumper pull. Both would pull rather easily, but with the Gas engine... you could feel the load, with the 07 Duramax, it’s easy to forget your pulling a trailer and 4 horses , weighing approx 10,000lbs.
All that being said, I recently purchased a used 3 horse gooseneck with a living quarters and I was concerned that my Duramax might not be suitable & I may have to get into a 3500 Dually or something.
It’s definitely much much heavier but the truck pulls it with no problem,
Only 2 issues that I had & have to address with the weight over the wheels with the gooseneck is suspension- I’m looking to beef up the leaf springs and most likely add a airbag system to raise the rear when I load down the gooseneck- it doesn’t squat too bad but drops about 2” when I lower the heavy living Qtr trailer.
The other issue I addressed was power as I had began to experience lower fuel pressure, so I got me a Fass Fuel system- only got the 100, not the 165, but it’s working superb & I can cruise down highway effortlessly at 75-80 if I’d like with fully loaded trailer.
I would guess, fully loaded it may be getting up to 12-13,000 lbs.
Good truck and it’ll pull anything you need , may have to do a few minor improvements.
I bought my 06 for 12. 8 years ago
When did the lbz first come out?
07 3500 cc 4x4 296000 , replaced transfer case , shift cable , bump stops , brakelines , front wheel bearings and all brakelines , 5000 on oil change , not a drop low . 16 mpg @ 8400 lbs , it my main all around work , tow truck , its my last truck and i have a llot of asphalt to see yet, she's a doozy !
I Just bought the same exact one in thumbnail . 03 & 170k miles for 10k off Facebook
Lets see how it goes 🔥🔥
I have a 07 Lbz and it has 300k no problems
A water pump IS a major deal on an Ecoboost.
lolz
What do y’all think about 2006 Duramax 2500 with 70k miles & one owner? They want 36k Truck has a lift on it. I want to use it to get into being a hotshot. Would y’all bite??
I bought a 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD crew cab long bed 4WD 6.6L Duramax turbo diesel with 110K miles, in excellent condition, back in 2016 for 22K. 36k seems a bit high.
Actually it's right in line with today's used market. I have a 2007 w/ 71k miles and that's the price point.
You need to have a lift pump it will save your injectors
Just got mine for $12,800 with 207k miles 💪
Who's still got their egr valve these days? Lol 1st thing i deleted when i bought mine last March
How do I know what my engineers I have a 02 2500 Duramax GMC with 57,000 original miles on it how do I know if I have a LLY or LBZ
Based on the year, and if the motor is the one that came in the truck when new, you have an lb7
Thank you yes it is the one that came in the truck are they good motors it's been very good so far but again it's only got 57,000 actual miles
que pasa seńor dustin!!
yes forgot that the LBZ HAS EXTERNAL INJECTORS !
Got mine with 126k for 19 and 4k worth of add ons
I’m 15 and buying a Lbz for 8k with 181k miles
Dad put 667,000k on his lbz then it needed a head gasket and he sold it
How many set of injectors did he have to replace ??? Just curious because i'm think of getting a lbz
@@manmen2811 none
The heads don't last above 600hrp they can crack, and the Allison 1000 can handle 550 with out slip. Anything above it won't be happy for everylong
Are they good first trucks ?
Yea awesome trucks. Just keep up with maintenance and it will run forever
I'm 16 almost 17 and I'm looking for a relatively cheap truck to get out of driving the mom mobile.
Real problem is trying to find one that hasn't been owned by a fuckwit tune-tard , so many of the 01-05s have been, so honestly idc I expect to pay 20k on a half decently maintained 06
L5p vs lbz
Rail pressure relief valve
My truck falls on its face when I get on it . Low rail pressure . Shop said replace fuel pressure regulator. Truck has 220k should I just rebuild or replace cp3
Christopher Austin Replace the relief valve and go from there
@@christopheraustin7057 get a fuel racing plug, problem solved. I had the same issue.
A fuel racing plug? What will that do?
Unless you front end swapped that truck it’s not an lb7
Here’s a question my 06 Duramax I have had a second EGR valve put on and within 30 minutes the check engine light pops back on. I had one on it. It kept doing it. They took it off. I bought a Chevy one and picked that up today within 30 minutes to check engine light Code popped up again 402. Anybody have a clue what the heck is going on cause I sure don’t.