My LS Porsche 911 Was About To BLOW UP So I Attempted A RISKY DIY Engine Fix!
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
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In this video, I find a catastrophic engine issue with my Porsche 911! It was about to blow so I attempted a risky DIY Fix. Remember to always check the oil pressure on questionable project cars!
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I read the dry eraser board
Get with Dr Tune Em All and he can get that thing dialed in pretty close quickly doing it remotely.
How good does carly work with your ML? I would like to know how good it is with it before I commit to buying it. I have a 1999 ML350.
I ordered my carly scanner for chevy and unfortunately upon deluvery to my house someone stole package off my porch
read your board, very nice... LOL I love your contents for all types of vehicles, it keeps me interested. I think you should do another diesel vehicle.
Hey guys I wasn't clear about what I thought the issues could be with the factory Porsche oil pressure sensor. What I meant was that they failed often and this was the original sensor. Considering the hacked-up wiring I thought there was a gauge reading issue. I said translation issues and that wasn't really the right term and didn't make a lot of sense. Thanks for watching!
Great content... thanks for keeping it real
You meant what I knew 😂😂😂
Love your positivity! It helps me through rough days. Plus, I learn a lot from you.
I thought you were expecting imperial oil pressure inside the engine but the factory gauge only reads metric oil pressure...
32:15 I found it :)
Alex, I have the utmost respect for the way you are so transparent about everything you do and show your thought process as you go along. Fantastic video as always.
Would love to see you take this to a track and see how it does now that it shouldn’t blow up like Hoovies.
it would handle like Amish horse and wagon
why do you say that the original f6 weights pretty much the same as the ls1 if not a little heavier @@bisser6969
@@bisser6969not if the suspension is set up properly. Rear compression on the rear shocks would need to be slowed just so it doesn’t roll in the corners. 🤷🏽♂️
@@sexycummins yes that can be done but you have 150-200 pounds weight difference and engine will be further back and much, much higher. stage 3 porches performance kit will be way better option in terms of preserving the car weight distribution, this thing will overseer crazy. 25k USD is lots of money to drop on car like this. Will be a nightmare to keep it going if even possible. Best of luck guys. Hope video will pay for the car or you will end up with money pit, i have done it before with 300ZX TT, i know.
🤣
bizzer u dont know wtf youre talkin about. U dont know the the corvette aluminum engine is 42lbs lighter than the original m96 flat 6 this car came with.
I wouldnt choose a v8, but u should be sure before runnin your mouth like your nissan engine
This was one of the best videos yet. I was
of building my first performance SBC in 1975. I was able to find a 1970 LT1 that I pulled out of a '70 Corvette. I'm surprised at how I knew the steps along the way before you got there. I also remember all
the little tricks we would do because we didn't have many of the things that are available today. Here's a shout-out to Errol Meadows who lived in Everett, Washington. I'm sure he is long gone by now, but he was an incredibly creative builder. He showed me a set of solid silver rod and main bearings he built for a 1965, 375 HP, Rochester FI motor. He had machined a mold for pouring the melted silver dollars. It was a very interesting process, to say the least. He built a lot of drag and sprint motors. That was a time where all the best builders were innovators. I did a lot of head work for him. I came up with a real breakthrough in SBC performance heads for him. I'm running out of time to tell 'the rest of the story.' (There's a reference for some old-timers!) Great job on the videos, with this one in particular.
The whiteboard easter egg was a nice touch. Loving this particular build!
I found this channel randomly when you had first got the space van. And then had to binge a lot of your older videos. I like the fact that there’s no BS no drama and really informative. Definitely one of my favourite channels. Thank you Alex you do great work.
Thanks Kyle!
I feel you buddy I did the exact same thing when I came across his channel a few months ago . Great guy!
FYI the torque+angle method is ONLY FOR NEW BOLTS. This is why "rebuilt" LS engines seem to spin bearings more often than they should, tq+angle with used bolts overtightens them quite a bit. You can verify this by marking a factory bolt, loosening, then tq+angle and see it go 45-90deg past the old mark.
I use 65lbs for inner main bolts, 55lbs for outer main, 18lbs for sides, 51lbs for gen4 rods and 45lbs for gen3 rods.
Also when upgrading to ARP rod bolts, you must either use the same torque spec OR have the rod resized. Increased torque WILL decrease clearances on the top/bottom by making it oval.
Came to mention the same about the arp rod bolts. Real easy to destroy the concentricity of the big end. Common issue I thought for sure you'd have heard about.
Not always true. Depends on the bolts and how they're made
Said the same thing 😂
For polishing the crank like you did, use a flexible ruler next time. It's wider so you can wrap it around the sandpaper completely giving you more consistent pressure across the surface since it's wider than a shoe string.
Cool!
I think you mean a sewing measuring tape, about 3’ long. That’s a good idea.
@@tomfurie2996 yes, exactly. 👌
I'm sorry I had to bring up the oil pan issue, but you did find a whole bunch of hidden damage... Glad you were able to make a significant improvement in oil pressure with those very necessary mods!
What’s funny is I’m not a Porsche enthusiast nor an LS swap enthusiast but I’m digging this build. Really appreciate the way Alex explains things along the way and keeps an upbeat attitude!
Thanks brother!
Agree. What makes this channel great is his explanations- almost an educational channel.
Yep, he’s very good an explaining the how and why 👍🏻
agree 1200%
@@BillBraskySOBwhat's a turn of phrase?
When polishing on the crank with sandpaper, it is best to have the oil holes straight down and when cleaning it, put the spray nozzle tube of the brake cleaner can high up inside the crank to insure no grit is left inside. It doesn't take much to ruin a new bearing.
theres a lot of spots an ls can bleed off oil pressure, lower pressure at idle is the first sign. Look up diagram of oil passages on an ls, pick up tube oring hardens and squares off with age, the dumbell plug at the back of the engine with two orings does the same thing, and the plate that holds the camshaft in also is a critical part of sealing the pressurized oil passages. That plate has a large sealing area that flattens out and hardens with age. Those things plus engine tolerances contribute to oil pressure variations
It's really common for people to not replace the cam retainer plate, but it's only $15-20. All the factory plates I've pulled are flat as a pancake with no chance to reuse.
Yes you are speaking of internal oil leaks that you can not see.
The Mazda Miata drift guy has a list of required items that need replacing on every LS, I think you listed some of those.
Also faulty oil pressure sensors on the mid-late 2000's 5.3. My 2008 Avalanche showed low oil pressure and I feared the engine was toast. I replaced the pressure sensor and the screen that sits down in the intake and oil pressure came back to what I would consider normal.
More Porsche LS please sir…. Love this car!!!
I last did any serious work on car engines 45 years ago when I was young - nothing as fancy as your 'stable', just VW air-cooled Beetles and vans :-) Watching your videos has brought back the enormous pleasure and satisfaction of working through issues and making them better. Thank you!
Great catch on the rod bearings, simple cheap fix, well done.
Simple if you have a car lift and engine rebuild experience
For some people an oil change is a big job, it’s all relative.
@@Chris-hw4mq u can do that also on jackstands.. not as comfortable but doable
You’re the best Alex. Oh and by the way, my LS powered 280k mile 2002 Silverado stock never torn down 5.3 vortec idles at around 30psi hot idle, 40 cold idle, 50-60psi highway cruising
My other LS powered vehicle is a 2002 Corvette Z06 with 51k miles- hot idle is around 35-40psi, cold idle around 50-55psi, highway cruising it stays between 50-60psi, but it will peg the oil pressure gauge when you step on it no doubt. Never opened stock 5.7 LS6 motor. Basically an LS1 like your Porsche with different heads/valvetrain/intake as you already know.
You are absolutely right though about the variation in oil pressures between “good running LS motors” some of my buddies have super low oil pressure and have no issues, some have higher pressure like my cars. I’m not sure why that is to be honest. I have noticed it though in the LS world, oil pressures are anywhere from 5psi hot idle to 40psi hot idle 🤷🏽♂️
It has to be the big swing in acceptable bearing tolerance from the factory. Thanks for posting up your results.
a few years back I tired this on a 2004 grand caravan didn’t work out cuz I didn’t know you had to measure and use different bearings and the people that had videos up at the time where questionable seeing you do it gives me confidence lol
Alex you a mechanical font of knowledge, “torque to angle bolts”???? What?? Amazing!!!!
I'd take it easy until you get through those two oil changes with filters too. My lingering concern would be where else those shavings got pumped? Cam bearings? Rocker arms? Lifters? So IMO yup, I'd take it easy until the metal shavings found in the oil go away. Might even take three oil changes. Three? Yup. Far less expensive than replacing the engine 🙂
I'm curious what the cam bearings look like. I dunno about you but that oil pressure still seams a little low to me.
They get pumped to the filter. It's only if the filter gets filled does it bypass. This is why I always disable the bypass and run the older filters w/o internal bypass or the 2015 LT-spec with the much higher bypass pressure. I'd rather have less oil than lapping compound go thru the engine.
@@hydrocarbon82A very visual reference for sure, if anyone's ever lapped valves 🙂
I enjoy your videos and have seen you build many engines here, but for some reason, this episode for me was the best. I guess you can always tear everything down and use new parts. This was about being smart, putting in the work and getting great results. Great job.
Thanks! I use lots of used parts too. The DeLorean restoration was done with many used parts.
I’ve done that rolling the bearings in before. That works well most of the time.
It looks from the gauge you showed us that the pressure relief is opening and closing very quickly. It is very simple to check the correct spring is fitted to the pressure relief and oil bypass checks. Also to check those springs are not squashed nor broken. I've gotta add that I dont have knowledge of LS architecture!
I love the LS swap and all the mods that were done to this car. But that motor won't last if it doesn't have good oil pressure!
It's amazing today people can own such an amazing aluminium block in their car. That were no so long ago unobtainable racing engines.
@FransvandenBergeMuziekschuur
Aluminum blocks have been common for multiple decades.
with this type of power? @@johnfox3845
Saw your Easter egg on the whiteboard! Good job changing the bearings prior to failure and upgrading the baffling in the pan!
Very satisfying episode, Alex! So happy to see the bearings were able to be serviced before catastrophe ensued! About the whiteboard list at 26:43. I did items 2-4 but "fix everything" seems like an awfully big job.
Same
Kudos to the camera man/woman for all of the standing around and commitment to a quality, enthusiastic video!
Your doing a great job at getting number 1 done on the Porsche To Do List. Gave me a good laugh. Wonder how many people noticed it.
Great video, love the whiteboard. Gotta say that your channel is my favorite of all auto youtubers. Great job delivering super informative and entertaining content. You have earned your success and hope it keeps growing.
Wow, thanks!
Agreed!!!!
Saw the white board comment! Lol
Your step by steps are so detailed and not drawn out. Helps keeps my attention. Thank you Alex.
The work that went into building that exhaust really paid off, looks and sounds great.
You can show me the oil pressure spring in that pump with as many as two to three 5 mm washers.
You can also use that device that squares oil into the bottom of the engine and make sure it's got the Shroud on it but take that off and not the dimple of the top of it down a little bit and that will increase your pressure by about 7 to 10 lbs. Anything much further than that would require either disassembly of the pump to make sure you make some clearances in it or using a higher pressure or higher volume oil pump. The other problem you may be running into is a problem with the oil pressure screen, but you're pulling oil pressure from a different part so that shouldn't be an issue, but that would also have warned you about metal in the oil much earlier. By using the original equipment oil pressure sending unit point. I have built a few of these engines, I do like their design, the problem I have with them is the dod system which you obviously shouldn't have on that particular example. Displacement On Demand is an insanely stupid thing to do to a V8 engine. There's no reason why you can't have that thing rather than shutting off four cylinders, just running lean when torque isn't needed. You can lean an engine quite a bit without causing any damage whatsoever, that was has been proven since World War II when Charles Lindbergh showed the US Army Air corps how to double the length of their sorties with their P38.
Think about it, what would you do to double your gas mileage period when you're just trying to get from point A to point B at normal Cruise speed?
As long as you're there, put ARP Hardware bonnet. I've never been a fan of torque to yield bolts. They are capable of being reused but the entire concept of intentionally causing a portion of the Metallurgy to fail, doesn't sit well with me.
Just a suggestion, when you refill the oil quantity. Put in 5 quarts of oil, a quart of transmission fluid in about 6 oz of fr3. You can put the entire bottle of fr3 in it but you'll have to reduce some of the transmission fluid. Fr3 is a great additive and will help protect a lot of those surfaces and you might even want to wait until at least a little bit of a break-in time for those bearings. All of the seals in the engine will light the transmission fluid and it will not be a problem whatsoever. If you are nervous about that, then use some transmission fluid in it for about a week before you do an oil change or better yet some Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before you do an oil change, it will help keep the engine clean and it is especially helpful with keeping the lifters completely clear of problems.
15 ft lbs on the at least you understand that sometimes when they say you have to replace a bolt, if it's for the purpose of sealing can I guess you can seal it. I actually had somebody argue with me on that point the first time I rebuilt one of these.
I would use one more 2000 grit on that. Or even a finer grit. The higher the Polish the less horsepower loss.
Not sure whether you noticed or not but the original baffle, in that oil pan would work great and a drag strip while that oil pan is turned backwards.
And if it were up to me I would put those two bolts on the back of that oil pan like they're supposed to be. I'm not sure why somebody thought it was okay to emit those two bolts. But they really should be there. But you really want all the bolts to be there even though it's a cast pan and maybe it won't be a problem. But what if it is a problem.
One really good video. I just bought my first Chevrolet ever, it does have an LS in it but it also has the dod system in it. I still want to hunt down every engineer that ever thought that this was a good idea and force them to marry a really bad ex-wife.
I still think it should be putting out better oil pressure at that higher Rev when warm. I'm not a fan of the standard STP oil filter, a K&N 2011 actually works quite well on those engines.
What you did is a perfect example of how to replace your Rod caps. And even most of your mains.
Just finished watching this playlist and can’t wait for an update on the Porsche.
U need to remove the barbell from thw oil bypass and replace it with aftermarket metal one will increase you oil flow by ALOT
Love this car. Awesome content on channel.
I dig the quick and dirty repair on the bearings too.
After seeing your oil pressure after the repair, I'd bet those cam bearings are wiped too.
Would love to see you tear that thing down and get it built back right before giving it tune and ripping on it.
40:32 that vrp supercharger looking fine 🥰
Well as an engineer I’ve learnt something new and @ 55 & that’s amazing . Your presentation is crystal clear too even for us brits 😂. I have little knowledge of LS’s but much experience on air cooled G ‘s 964’s & 993’s. The car you bought for 27k ( 21k in English money) is amazing value and if it were stock or near stock would easily double as the number of units from production is much less now . I look forward to seeing more of your projects
You needed to check the clearance on the rod bearings with the arp bolts if thats what you planned to run. Checking them with the two different fasteners could yield a difference in clearance on its own.
Yes, it is important to not change the bolt tension from when the rod was machined. ARP bolts should match the tension of the stock bolts. This is admittedly hard to do when stock bolts are TTY and ARP are torque only.
Love this car and the LS power plant. Want to see the finished tuned version, should sound even more incredible. Need to build a custom air intake that utilizes the side air ducts on the body.
Nice to do list lol!!! Love watching your videos. Especially the transam ones as I just bought a 4th gen firebird
Just found the channel and am enjoying the content,clear,well edited no crazy hype or drama,solid mechanical work( would have broken out the micrometer to check concentrity of rod journals and what bearings to order). Really had me when you related previous work for CTA in bus barn,have friends who worked CTA and am rebuilding trucks on south side- just installed new cab on a Volvo after frame straightened(insurance refused to total but should have). Will watch more as time allows.
You’re killing it, Alex! I love this build- a GM V8 in a German icon sports car. Thank you for the hours and hours of top-notch entertainment.
This build has been a blast to watch, love your content and all your projects! Been watching your channel for a few months now, wish I would have found it sooner, my new favorite!
Let's start an LS pressure thread. List your type of LS, mileage and oil pressure. Thanks!
I have the lq9 vortec max.
Mine sits around 20. And 40 cruising.
4.8 Vortec with 272k miles. I usually have around 50-55psi at cold start, 35-40 at idle, 70-80 under acceleration.
Lm7 45 psi cold. 60 on acceleration 30 hot
40 psi cold idle, 20 hot idle, 40+ above 2000rpm stock 1998 Ls1 130k miles
I read the white board! 😂
I look forward to these videos all week! Have a great weekend LSC team!
Should also check the volume of oil in it. Its super common to "pump the pan dry" when guys throw a high volume pump on. The oil drains too slowly back down to the pan and the pickup is often starved. To combat that issues instead of fancy baffles that won't correct the issue, simply run 2 more qts of oil. I did back to back runs at the track (1/4 mile) with 5.5qts and 7.7 qts. Same exact MPH and ET. Only the oil pressure didn't drop in my logs with the 2qts "over full" run. (fbody oil pan) 8 second car 1.3x 60' with the front wheels up.
There is also an orange and a blue o-ring on the pickup. You may have the wrong one installed. that one looked really loose.
I would not recommend using ARP rod bolts unless you machine the rod ends if you don't you can spin a bearing. Since you tighten them to a higher spec they actually make your rod ends slightly oval and not perfectly circular.
Cylinder detonation (pinging) can cause rod bearings to fail prematurely as well. Might be hard to hear knocking and pinging under load with the engine in the back like that. Doubt this thing was tuned properly when they put it together
Alex, Another great video. Hey, change out your exhaust mounting bolts to M8 X 1.25 studs. Then you can keep the oil pan bolted and make the exhaust even easier to remove.
Doesn’t have to remove it now 🤷🏽♂️ removing those 2 bolts won’t hurt anything and you’d still have to remove nuts.
But that exhaust is the whole problem. The design is heating the oil and thinning it. Oil pan is incased in exhaust piping.
I know I'm super late to this video but, WOW, does that exhaust ever sound incredible. I can see why this swap can be desirable now. Never thought an LS would sound so good in a Porsche.
Having done the rod bearings on 3 BMW S65 V8 engines (mine and two friend's M3s), that first start always made my heart race until it ran perfectly. And yeah, saw the whiteboard message.
Love this car…hope to see much more content on the 911 LS
What are you guys working on this week?
Here in Canada, big storms are approaching, so working on my snowblower and getting that fixed and ready! 😢😂
Xmas lights bro.
‘70 Boss 302 Mustang.
Trying to get a broken rusted piece of the fuel pump module send line out of the plastic fuel line that connects to it, in my LS3 swapped Escalade. For oil pressure reference, my cammed/supercharged LS1 corvette with a new oil system (melling) has a hot idle of 13-17psi @ 850rpm.
Im working on staying warm here in scotland 😂
Never had a Porsche, I fancy a 911 4wd having said that. Enjoying your Porsche experience, what would be worrying me is where the metal fragments have potentially gone, on a scale of 1 > 10 how much attention is the oil pressure gauge going to get in future - I think that's an 11 !!
i REALLY enjoy the technical detail your experience as a mechanic really shines in your content.
300,000 mile + 6.0 03' Silverado-40psi oil pressure cold start---drops to 30-35 when fully warm, stays well above psi vs. rpm. Rpm 4,000--psi 50ish That's with 5-30 in the winter. Summer w/ 10-30 is much better. This engine/mileage issue is piston slap. It's tuned and I drive it appropriately, new engine and transmission coming this summer.
I usually skip to the end on videos like this. But this series has me watching the whole thing.
I wish my girlfriend loved me as much as Alex loves Mercedes sunroof grease.
Mine runs 40-45 cold idle, 30-35 warm idle, and around 50 in throttle. It's an lm7 with summit 8707 cam and pac 1219 springs. For reference my idle is around 1000rpm with this cam. Mine used to not like cold start but is cable throttle so I opened the blade a few turns. And starts with no input now. I run mine to 6800 and have hit limiter quite a lot heating the tires and has held up great. Stock bottom end with gen iv pan.
I've found the fox well elm327 with dash command app is also great. Helped me monitor fuel pressure on my Volvo 3.0t t6 I could see it drop to 0 which confirmed it was indeed the pressure sensor on the rail. Also have vida which allows you to even change heated seat temps as well as fire individual coils, injectors, etc. great tool! I'm a Volvo guy at heart. Have an older 98 S70 T5M I swapped a modern 5 cyl into that runs a 12.3 which is plenty for a 3000lbs fwd lol.. fun little car. The LS is actually in a 1990 240 sedan.. always learn a lot watching your videos. Very clear speaker and thorough. Great work as always!
Throughly enjoy your EduTainment (educational and entertaining) videos. When I work on my older 745i BMW, I also talk to my parts.
With lubrication being very important for every vehicle, I've been using Bestline Racing NanoLube engine oil treatment in addition to very regular oil changes. It supposed to dramatically reduce friction between metal parts and I've seen a small bump in mpg. With an older car, I could use a magic additive.
My favorite car UA-cam channel! So frequent uploads and just pure car joy! Thanks for the amazing entertainment, Alex!
07 ls2, hot idle was 25psi and then it dropped to 12. Pulled pan and found lot's of bearing material. Still had 30 at cruise and no knock.
Pulled for full overhaul and had to have a rod replaced and crank welded.
Went with all new hardware from btr since it's cheap for oil I ran valvoline zr1 for break in. Intervals 500,1000 and 3000 then went back to amsoil signature series.
I recently moved from my home town( lived within about a 15 minute drive from where I was born my whole life) to Santa Paula, Ca (a place I never heard of before)which is apparently the home of ARP! They claim to be the home of citrus…but judging by the amount of cool junk on the street…it’s the home of car stuff.
My LS1 cold idles at 60+PSI, hot idles around 35, but I've seen them go as low as 15-20PSI without issue. Hell, I drove my Trans Am 150 miles with a cam bearing that walked out of the bore. Had 0PSI at idle and 6PSI at cruise. No damage to the crank at all.
Love the channel it's like a great mix of old school power block with fresh modern content.
After you described oil starvation issue, i would add an extra 1/2 quart of oil past full crosshairs to further eliminate any dry episodes even with the new sump baffle. Well, you read my suggestion well later on in the video👍
Found your channel over the gtr video so now I’m watching all of your older videos and enjoying the content
Another killer job. You and your team are fantastic. Thanks for the fun white board message.
Fantastic video. I’ve learned many things today thank you! By the way, did you see the DoLorean on Haggerty? Johnny Carson was the first owner and was fully restored.
I definitely learned something from this video. I always believed once a bearing spun the engine seized and a total rebuild was needed. Inserting the new upper main journal bearing was a revelation also. Quite an educational video for me. Well done.
Yes I read the instructions on the white board behind you. Love your channel.
You could install the factory GM Front sump, It came in the Australian Holden VT to VZ Commodore LS1 or in the States the Australian made 2004 to 2006 Pontiac GTO! Only issue would be you might have to redo your exhaust system!
My L99 in my 5th gen cold starts about 45-50psi then when it gets up to temp, it will idle somewhere between 24-30psi… if the oil gets hot enough, it will drop to 20-22psi. I have an aero force interceptor gauge that signals when it hits 20psi… I really need to pull the old AFM lifters and change the oil pump.
Truly an amazing rod and main bearing video. Quite a bit explained and very much appreciated. This video took the mystery out of bearings for a lot of us. I definitely thank you very much for this video. Definitely a favorite.
great save Alex, I wish Hoovie knew about this issue a couple years back with Apollo 911.
Alwx seeing as so much of the work done on this car has been top notch, you might want to check your steering and suspension for bolt tightness before you rip on it. Just thinking out loud
Doing the new bearing swap saved the Ls1 from certain premature death,good recovery.
If it’s toast build a 5.3 with a whipple. That exhaust note plus some blower whine would be magical 🤩
I have been watching your videos over the last few months and I noticed how organized you are. Would it be possible for you to do a video on how you organize (for the most part ) your jobs and how you stay organized? I always have the problem of rushing projects, you do such a good job of step-by-step.
Any fastener stretches when you tighten to its torque limit. It's the stretch (and the fact that it acts like a spring) that prevents it from loosening. TTY stretch beyond their elastic limit so it's a permanent elongation (like a spring stetched too much to return to its original shape). Conventional fasteners spring back to their original length as they are not stretched beyond their elastic limit (like a spring stretched within it's operational limit). Angular torque is simply a more accurate method of achieving that stretch.
I came across your site for the first time today and really enjoyed it. Your enthusiasm and excitement makes you very watchable, but more importantly to me you are a trained motor engineer who knows his stuff! It's quite frightening to watch some UA-cam videos of car rebuilds by untrained people who make it up as they go along, and pass the car on. Good luck with your future adventures.
Love the board on the background! Too bad on the bearings, you got this !! Great video
Very lucky that you got to it in time ... Amazing knifing and forking it ...
I'm very interested to see how you'll fluah the pulling system and prevent the old bearing material from screwing up the new bearings and rest of the engine.
I never did engine work but always wished I had. I enjoy your knowledge and skill.
Alex, I have replaced new bearings on rod and main journals that looked 50x worse that what you have here and they were perfectly fine after a light journal polish with emery cloth and a shoestring. Of course they were not on spun journals. If it were me I would polish the journals with emery cloth, Plastigauge everything, and install a set of King Main and Rod bearings. It should be perfectly fine afterwards. If you want you can blame OJ for his aggressive driving, LOL.
(copy but please read) .... after watching the other 66% of the video lol
Im very happy that u successfully did an "In frame" on your Carrera LS!
U taught us something new along the way.
That was alot of work.. your focus was great and u did and Excellent Job.
Truly happy for u that your engine didnt have major damage at the crank.
DO NOT .. DO NOT .. DO NOT !!
Allow OJ, or yourself to over rev this engine.
I felt like he was trying to break it actually and im almost certain that This is prolly what caused your bearing and oil pressure issue.. as well as maybe the earlier overheating.
You must remember.. these domestic V8's can not usually rev up that high like the original Porsche flat 6.
I know u wud love em to but they just cant, unless youve built them todo so.
This is one draw back to swapping for domestic v8s.. they have torque, but they dont rev like the original flat 6.. which has low torque and must rev to get into power.
Trust me.. i have the same car 🙂
.. Also.. I love your positivity.. I watched this at a time when i really needed this vibe to push me back into my own positivity.
I will surely look fwd to u getting back to this car.
I would love to see u getting all the enjoyment u want out of it.
I truly Thank You for sharing with us
I had a 1990 Z28 IROC they told me it was a corvette in disguise saw your Ruby ,that was it tuneport sounds soooogood.
I believe the connecting rod bolts are torque to yield. Replace them unless they've been replaced with arp bolts.
Loved the polishing method
i did a subaru engine = got a IAG alloy sump set - sump baffles pick up and windage tray ! = $1.100 australian dollars ! - worth it for a $15,k engine . nice porsche i like the color and writing like the early ones ! thanks alex .
I am never going to use any of this info, but it is soooooo interesting to watch.
Your vids are awesome, very well done!
Great stuff!
The only conventional oil I've seen in places is Valvoline VR1, and they recommend that for cars without cats. Who needs those anyway :)
Glad your oil pressure is back up to 50+, great video with tons of knowledge learned 😄
Lots of this applies to the 2.3 Turbo Ford (Lima) I'm rebuilding. Nice video. And, I read the whiteboard.
Interesting the way you used the plastic gauge. I have always used it when the motor was upside down on an engine stand. That way the weight of the crank is sitting on the upper crankshaft bearing. This allows for the maximum gap between the main bearing cap (bearing) and crankshaft. The way you did it allows for the gap to close between the main bearing cap and crankshaft due to the weight of the crankshaft being affected by gravity. So I am not sure how accurate your plastic gauge reading is. You could have probably did better by doing a bump test with a dial indicator to determine the gap between the main bearings and crankshaft. Bump tests are usually done on larger diesel engines but in this case I think it would give you a better representation of the gap (clearance between bearing and crankshaft).
What a save 😅
Great timing for the disassembly
Yes reading the whiteboard. Nicely done.
I love when you throughly explain things you do and why you do them and give us all this information I learn something new everytime I watch your videos. Thank you!
Every 2nd oil change or so, I send a small sample of my oil for analysis to a company like BlackStone Labs. They provide very useful chemical and particulate analysis, including the level of copper present in my used oil; this is a super easy early warning sign of bearing issues. In fact, your iron level would probably start increasing even before the copper becomes present. There are a host of other traces the look for as well. Prior sample numbers are retained for each vehicle, so successive analyses show trends or sudden changes. Think of it as the bloodwork you have done at your annual physical.
They sell regular conventional oil at dollar general. That's what I use for break in oil. Great content!