read your board, very nice... LOL I love your contents for all types of vehicles, it keeps me interested. I think you should do another diesel vehicle.
What’s funny is I’m not a Porsche enthusiast nor an LS swap enthusiast but I’m digging this build. Really appreciate the way Alex explains things along the way and keeps an upbeat attitude!
Hey guys I wasn't clear about what I thought the issues could be with the factory Porsche oil pressure sensor. What I meant was that they failed often and this was the original sensor. Considering the hacked-up wiring I thought there was a gauge reading issue. I said translation issues and that wasn't really the right term and didn't make a lot of sense. Thanks for watching!
Retired Merchant Marine Captain, Marine Surveyor and occasional marine diesel mechanic, (mostly keeping my own boats running). What I want to pass along isn't connected to this video. It came to mind when I was watching your video on brake master cylinders on the Rollie. I've noticed some Harbor Freight tools in various videos of yours. What I want to mention is that HF carries an electricians copper washer kit. In the kit, there is, I'm guessing fifty washers of various sizes. The HF copper washers are made of soft copper. I've used these washers many, many, times with never a problem. The crush washers can't/should never be reused. The point of the crush washer is to provide a distortion seal. Once distorted it's useful life is over. The washers are intended to provide a positive electrical connection. As I recall, the last time I bought a kit, it was less than five bucks. Many diesel engines use anywhere from a few to many, many of these washers. The HF product is cheap stuff indeed and works perfectly. There is a ninty minute YT video by a guy that bought a seventy year old Rolls crate engine and brought it back to life. Well worth the time to watch. One more thing, CLEAN YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT EVEN LEANING AGAINST THAT ROLLIE!
This was one of the best videos yet. I was of building my first performance SBC in 1975. I was able to find a 1970 LT1 that I pulled out of a '70 Corvette. I'm surprised at how I knew the steps along the way before you got there. I also remember all the little tricks we would do because we didn't have many of the things that are available today. Here's a shout-out to Errol Meadows who lived in Everett, Washington. I'm sure he is long gone by now, but he was an incredibly creative builder. He showed me a set of solid silver rod and main bearings he built for a 1965, 375 HP, Rochester FI motor. He had machined a mold for pouring the melted silver dollars. It was a very interesting process, to say the least. He built a lot of drag and sprint motors. That was a time where all the best builders were innovators. I did a lot of head work for him. I came up with a real breakthrough in SBC performance heads for him. I'm running out of time to tell 'the rest of the story.' (There's a reference for some old-timers!) Great job on the videos, with this one in particular.
FYI the torque+angle method is ONLY FOR NEW BOLTS. This is why "rebuilt" LS engines seem to spin bearings more often than they should, tq+angle with used bolts overtightens them quite a bit. You can verify this by marking a factory bolt, loosening, then tq+angle and see it go 45-90deg past the old mark. I use 65lbs for inner main bolts, 55lbs for outer main, 18lbs for sides, 51lbs for gen4 rods and 45lbs for gen3 rods. Also when upgrading to ARP rod bolts, you must either use the same torque spec OR have the rod resized. Increased torque WILL decrease clearances on the top/bottom by making it oval.
Came to mention the same about the arp rod bolts. Real easy to destroy the concentricity of the big end. Common issue I thought for sure you'd have heard about.
Alex, I have the utmost respect for the way you are so transparent about everything you do and show your thought process as you go along. Fantastic video as always.
For polishing the crank like you did, use a flexible ruler next time. It's wider so you can wrap it around the sandpaper completely giving you more consistent pressure across the surface since it's wider than a shoe string.
Alex is one of the best UA-camrs when it comes to clearly explaining the problem, the probable cause, and the recommended fix... and then doing an excellent repair! The big plus with an LSC video is that Alex is so personable and has a great sense of humor-- entertainment with your education! Hey Alex... Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family!
I found this channel randomly when you had first got the space van. And then had to binge a lot of your older videos. I like the fact that there’s no BS no drama and really informative. Definitely one of my favourite channels. Thank you Alex you do great work.
@@bisser6969not if the suspension is set up properly. Rear compression on the rear shocks would need to be slowed just so it doesn’t roll in the corners. 🤷🏽♂️
@@sexycummins yes that can be done but you have 150-200 pounds weight difference and engine will be further back and much, much higher. stage 3 porches performance kit will be way better option in terms of preserving the car weight distribution, this thing will overseer crazy. 25k USD is lots of money to drop on car like this. Will be a nightmare to keep it going if even possible. Best of luck guys. Hope video will pay for the car or you will end up with money pit, i have done it before with 300ZX TT, i know. 🤣
bizzer u dont know wtf youre talkin about. U dont know the the corvette aluminum engine is 42lbs lighter than the original m96 flat 6 this car came with. I wouldnt choose a v8, but u should be sure before runnin your mouth like your nissan engine
When polishing on the crank with sandpaper, it is best to have the oil holes straight down and when cleaning it, put the spray nozzle tube of the brake cleaner can high up inside the crank to insure no grit is left inside. It doesn't take much to ruin a new bearing.
I read your Porsche to do list. I love how informative your videos are! Now that I have an LS engine in my Yukon xl, I believe this is good stuff to know for any future repairs.
I last did any serious work on car engines 45 years ago when I was young - nothing as fancy as your 'stable', just VW air-cooled Beetles and vans :-) Watching your videos has brought back the enormous pleasure and satisfaction of working through issues and making them better. Thank you!
Fantastic video. I’ve learned many things today thank you! By the way, did you see the DoLorean on Haggerty? Johnny Carson was the first owner and was fully restored.
theres a lot of spots an ls can bleed off oil pressure, lower pressure at idle is the first sign. Look up diagram of oil passages on an ls, pick up tube oring hardens and squares off with age, the dumbell plug at the back of the engine with two orings does the same thing, and the plate that holds the camshaft in also is a critical part of sealing the pressurized oil passages. That plate has a large sealing area that flattens out and hardens with age. Those things plus engine tolerances contribute to oil pressure variations
It's really common for people to not replace the cam retainer plate, but it's only $15-20. All the factory plates I've pulled are flat as a pancake with no chance to reuse.
Yes you are speaking of internal oil leaks that you can not see. The Mazda Miata drift guy has a list of required items that need replacing on every LS, I think you listed some of those.
Also faulty oil pressure sensors on the mid-late 2000's 5.3. My 2008 Avalanche showed low oil pressure and I feared the engine was toast. I replaced the pressure sensor and the screen that sits down in the intake and oil pressure came back to what I would consider normal.
Alex, if you don’t already have one in the shop, I highly suggest having an eye wash station. Engine oil, or any other automotive fluid can be extremely dangerous for your eyes. You may not notice immediately but can develop infection later on.
I agree and he spent 90% of this episode without eye protection. I have a long time mechanic friend who lost his left eye from a impact gun. He hit the trigger and a spec of metal flew out of gun motor straight into his eye. Disfigured him and more.
I had one of my technicians bring me a slave cylinder once telling me it was seized. Without thinking, I squeezed that cylinder to check, and it did feel seized so I squeezed harder and it freed injecting dirty, rust filled brake fluid into my eye. We didn't have an eye wash station, and I didn't have safeties on. Got infected even after hospital flushed it forever. Ended all ok in the end, but I have worn safeties since.
Especially with that much brake cleaner, it's mostly methanol or acetone which will strip several layers off your cornea. I've heard from my mom just how painful it can be.
You’re the best Alex. Oh and by the way, my LS powered 280k mile 2002 Silverado stock never torn down 5.3 vortec idles at around 30psi hot idle, 40 cold idle, 50-60psi highway cruising My other LS powered vehicle is a 2002 Corvette Z06 with 51k miles- hot idle is around 35-40psi, cold idle around 50-55psi, highway cruising it stays between 50-60psi, but it will peg the oil pressure gauge when you step on it no doubt. Never opened stock 5.7 LS6 motor. Basically an LS1 like your Porsche with different heads/valvetrain/intake as you already know. You are absolutely right though about the variation in oil pressures between “good running LS motors” some of my buddies have super low oil pressure and have no issues, some have higher pressure like my cars. I’m not sure why that is to be honest. I have noticed it though in the LS world, oil pressures are anywhere from 5psi hot idle to 40psi hot idle 🤷🏽♂️
Very cool and informative. I’ve done this before on various engines and one thing I would do was loosen all the mains so the crank can settle just a little bit. Makes the top bearings easier to spin out. Super glad your crank was fine! I love that LS Porsche.
I enjoy your videos and have seen you build many engines here, but for some reason, this episode for me was the best. I guess you can always tear everything down and use new parts. This was about being smart, putting in the work and getting great results. Great job.
@@LegitStreetCarswe agree on the editing. It’s amazing how much time it takes to edit even a 5 minute video. But, we still can’t thank you enough for giving us the encouragement to start up our channel after watching you diligently for over a year.
I'd take it easy until you get through those two oil changes with filters too. My lingering concern would be where else those shavings got pumped? Cam bearings? Rocker arms? Lifters? So IMO yup, I'd take it easy until the metal shavings found in the oil go away. Might even take three oil changes. Three? Yup. Far less expensive than replacing the engine 🙂
They get pumped to the filter. It's only if the filter gets filled does it bypass. This is why I always disable the bypass and run the older filters w/o internal bypass or the 2015 LT-spec with the much higher bypass pressure. I'd rather have less oil than lapping compound go thru the engine.
a few years back I tired this on a 2004 grand caravan didn’t work out cuz I didn’t know you had to measure and use different bearings and the people that had videos up at the time where questionable seeing you do it gives me confidence lol
Great video, love the whiteboard. Gotta say that your channel is my favorite of all auto youtubers. Great job delivering super informative and entertaining content. You have earned your success and hope it keeps growing.
Not a huge surprise that an LS swapp into a 911 (or any modified from stock) without baffles put in the oil pan had spun rod bearings. With the increased acceleration the oil will be pushed to the back of the oil pan. Add to it a persistent overheat situation and it was amazing the rod journal's weren't toast. Dodged a huge bullet. Hmmm.... maybe name the car Kugel ausweichen (German for dodge bullet).
I'm sorry I had to bring up the oil pan issue, but you did find a whole bunch of hidden damage... Glad you were able to make a significant improvement in oil pressure with those very necessary mods!
Just found the channel and am enjoying the content,clear,well edited no crazy hype or drama,solid mechanical work( would have broken out the micrometer to check concentrity of rod journals and what bearings to order). Really had me when you related previous work for CTA in bus barn,have friends who worked CTA and am rebuilding trucks on south side- just installed new cab on a Volvo after frame straightened(insurance refused to total but should have). Will watch more as time allows.
Very satisfying episode, Alex! So happy to see the bearings were able to be serviced before catastrophe ensued! About the whiteboard list at 26:43. I did items 2-4 but "fix everything" seems like an awfully big job.
Love this car. Awesome content on channel. I dig the quick and dirty repair on the bearings too. After seeing your oil pressure after the repair, I'd bet those cam bearings are wiped too. Would love to see you tear that thing down and get it built back right before giving it tune and ripping on it.
Alex, it’s incredible how simple you make this look … it looks so easy the way you work yourself through these intricate processes! I for sure learned a lot from this video and I love how you explain every step you are going to do! Loved the video all the way 👍👏🏻👏🏻😀
You needed to check the clearance on the rod bearings with the arp bolts if thats what you planned to run. Checking them with the two different fasteners could yield a difference in clearance on its own.
Yes, it is important to not change the bolt tension from when the rod was machined. ARP bolts should match the tension of the stock bolts. This is admittedly hard to do when stock bolts are TTY and ARP are torque only.
This build has been a blast to watch, love your content and all your projects! Been watching your channel for a few months now, wish I would have found it sooner, my new favorite!
Love this car and the LS power plant. Want to see the finished tuned version, should sound even more incredible. Need to build a custom air intake that utilizes the side air ducts on the body.
That hadn't occurred to me until I saw the engine. Facing the wrong way, the LS oil pan is now closer to an old Chrysler layout, where the lowest part of the sump is in the front to make room for the rear mounted steering parts. Under hard acceleration, the Mopars would oil starve which made them timebombs at the drag strip. This Porsche probably has this problem, even worse since it might be quicker than those old Chryslers. Old gearheads have said that you can add baffles but the problem never really goes away because physics.
Not to name drop other UA-camrs but Hoovie's LS swapped Porsche had oil starved issued that were blamed on sump location, and Tony Angelo mentioned it on his LS swap, and he went with a front oil sump pan.
I would not recommend using ARP rod bolts unless you machine the rod ends if you don't you can spin a bearing. Since you tighten them to a higher spec they actually make your rod ends slightly oval and not perfectly circular.
Alex, Another great video. Hey, change out your exhaust mounting bolts to M8 X 1.25 studs. Then you can keep the oil pan bolted and make the exhaust even easier to remove.
As someone who is fifty percent Irish (on my mother's side), you did your 11 percent "fighting Irish" proud by not giving up on this potentially devastating issue. My hearty Irish congrats to you Alex! We're not called the "fighting Irish" for nothing!
Truly an amazing rod and main bearing video. Quite a bit explained and very much appreciated. This video took the mystery out of bearings for a lot of us. I definitely thank you very much for this video. Definitely a favorite.
Cylinder detonation (pinging) can cause rod bearings to fail prematurely as well. Might be hard to hear knocking and pinging under load with the engine in the back like that. Doubt this thing was tuned properly when they put it together
Really surprised to see you using the ARP bolts without resizing the rods. I've seen several new builds spin rod bearings because guys skipped out on that step. Obviously resizing isn't practical for an in chassis refresh so would have been better to stick with stock bolts. Love the build though!
Trying to get a broken rusted piece of the fuel pump module send line out of the plastic fuel line that connects to it, in my LS3 swapped Escalade. For oil pressure reference, my cammed/supercharged LS1 corvette with a new oil system (melling) has a hot idle of 13-17psi @ 850rpm.
07 ls2, hot idle was 25psi and then it dropped to 12. Pulled pan and found lot's of bearing material. Still had 30 at cruise and no knock. Pulled for full overhaul and had to have a rod replaced and crank welded. Went with all new hardware from btr since it's cheap for oil I ran valvoline zr1 for break in. Intervals 500,1000 and 3000 then went back to amsoil signature series.
I definitely learned something from this video. I always believed once a bearing spun the engine seized and a total rebuild was needed. Inserting the new upper main journal bearing was a revelation also. Quite an educational video for me. Well done.
It’s funny I remember using the plastiguage in mechanics shop in high school and always wondered why we did it to pull it back apart, but now I’ve put 2 and 2 together!!! It’s for measuring after torque so you can see exacting tolerances for bearings! Quick question though… what would make a bearing spin in the first place? Love your vids Alex!
Throughly enjoy your EduTainment (educational and entertaining) videos. When I work on my older 745i BMW, I also talk to my parts. With lubrication being very important for every vehicle, I've been using Bestline Racing NanoLube engine oil treatment in addition to very regular oil changes. It supposed to dramatically reduce friction between metal parts and I've seen a small bump in mpg. With an older car, I could use a magic additive.
300,000 mile + 6.0 03' Silverado-40psi oil pressure cold start---drops to 30-35 when fully warm, stays well above psi vs. rpm. Rpm 4,000--psi 50ish That's with 5-30 in the winter. Summer w/ 10-30 is much better. This engine/mileage issue is piston slap. It's tuned and I drive it appropriately, new engine and transmission coming this summer.
You can show me the oil pressure spring in that pump with as many as two to three 5 mm washers. You can also use that device that squares oil into the bottom of the engine and make sure it's got the Shroud on it but take that off and not the dimple of the top of it down a little bit and that will increase your pressure by about 7 to 10 lbs. Anything much further than that would require either disassembly of the pump to make sure you make some clearances in it or using a higher pressure or higher volume oil pump. The other problem you may be running into is a problem with the oil pressure screen, but you're pulling oil pressure from a different part so that shouldn't be an issue, but that would also have warned you about metal in the oil much earlier. By using the original equipment oil pressure sending unit point. I have built a few of these engines, I do like their design, the problem I have with them is the dod system which you obviously shouldn't have on that particular example. Displacement On Demand is an insanely stupid thing to do to a V8 engine. There's no reason why you can't have that thing rather than shutting off four cylinders, just running lean when torque isn't needed. You can lean an engine quite a bit without causing any damage whatsoever, that was has been proven since World War II when Charles Lindbergh showed the US Army Air corps how to double the length of their sorties with their P38. Think about it, what would you do to double your gas mileage period when you're just trying to get from point A to point B at normal Cruise speed? As long as you're there, put ARP Hardware bonnet. I've never been a fan of torque to yield bolts. They are capable of being reused but the entire concept of intentionally causing a portion of the Metallurgy to fail, doesn't sit well with me. Just a suggestion, when you refill the oil quantity. Put in 5 quarts of oil, a quart of transmission fluid in about 6 oz of fr3. You can put the entire bottle of fr3 in it but you'll have to reduce some of the transmission fluid. Fr3 is a great additive and will help protect a lot of those surfaces and you might even want to wait until at least a little bit of a break-in time for those bearings. All of the seals in the engine will light the transmission fluid and it will not be a problem whatsoever. If you are nervous about that, then use some transmission fluid in it for about a week before you do an oil change or better yet some Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before you do an oil change, it will help keep the engine clean and it is especially helpful with keeping the lifters completely clear of problems. 15 ft lbs on the at least you understand that sometimes when they say you have to replace a bolt, if it's for the purpose of sealing can I guess you can seal it. I actually had somebody argue with me on that point the first time I rebuilt one of these. I would use one more 2000 grit on that. Or even a finer grit. The higher the Polish the less horsepower loss. Not sure whether you noticed or not but the original baffle, in that oil pan would work great and a drag strip while that oil pan is turned backwards. And if it were up to me I would put those two bolts on the back of that oil pan like they're supposed to be. I'm not sure why somebody thought it was okay to emit those two bolts. But they really should be there. But you really want all the bolts to be there even though it's a cast pan and maybe it won't be a problem. But what if it is a problem. One really good video. I just bought my first Chevrolet ever, it does have an LS in it but it also has the dod system in it. I still want to hunt down every engineer that ever thought that this was a good idea and force them to marry a really bad ex-wife. I still think it should be putting out better oil pressure at that higher Rev when warm. I'm not a fan of the standard STP oil filter, a K&N 2011 actually works quite well on those engines. What you did is a perfect example of how to replace your Rod caps. And even most of your mains.
Every 2nd oil change or so, I send a small sample of my oil for analysis to a company like BlackStone Labs. They provide very useful chemical and particulate analysis, including the level of copper present in my used oil; this is a super easy early warning sign of bearing issues. In fact, your iron level would probably start increasing even before the copper becomes present. There are a host of other traces the look for as well. Prior sample numbers are retained for each vehicle, so successive analyses show trends or sudden changes. Think of it as the bloodwork you have done at your annual physical.
My first turbo 5.3 had similar oil pressure as you are experiencing. When engine was put in it had 60 psi cold idle and 50psi hot idle. Accidentally starved it of oil and it immediately dropped 20 psi across the board. It lasted about 7k miles and slowly lost pressure throughout those 7k miles. Eventually got to about where yours is and started knocking. I pulled it apart to find a spun rod bearing. That oil looked just like mine did unfortunately. Probably gunna need a rebuild
I came across your site for the first time today and really enjoyed it. Your enthusiasm and excitement makes you very watchable, but more importantly to me you are a trained motor engineer who knows his stuff! It's quite frightening to watch some UA-cam videos of car rebuilds by untrained people who make it up as they go along, and pass the car on. Good luck with your future adventures.
Mine runs 40-45 cold idle, 30-35 warm idle, and around 50 in throttle. It's an lm7 with summit 8707 cam and pac 1219 springs. For reference my idle is around 1000rpm with this cam. Mine used to not like cold start but is cable throttle so I opened the blade a few turns. And starts with no input now. I run mine to 6800 and have hit limiter quite a lot heating the tires and has held up great. Stock bottom end with gen iv pan. I've found the fox well elm327 with dash command app is also great. Helped me monitor fuel pressure on my Volvo 3.0t t6 I could see it drop to 0 which confirmed it was indeed the pressure sensor on the rail. Also have vida which allows you to even change heated seat temps as well as fire individual coils, injectors, etc. great tool! I'm a Volvo guy at heart. Have an older 98 S70 T5M I swapped a modern 5 cyl into that runs a 12.3 which is plenty for a 3000lbs fwd lol.. fun little car. The LS is actually in a 1990 240 sedan.. always learn a lot watching your videos. Very clear speaker and thorough. Great work as always!
Never had a Porsche, I fancy a 911 4wd having said that. Enjoying your Porsche experience, what would be worrying me is where the metal fragments have potentially gone, on a scale of 1 > 10 how much attention is the oil pressure gauge going to get in future - I think that's an 11 !!
I have been watching your videos over the last few months and I noticed how organized you are. Would it be possible for you to do a video on how you organize (for the most part ) your jobs and how you stay organized? I always have the problem of rushing projects, you do such a good job of step-by-step.
Your channel is one of my favorites! I'm subscribed for "all" w/ notifications, but I'm not always able to watch right away. Is there a way that I can sync the videos in order? I can literally sit and watch hours of your videos when I have the time, but it's hard to know what video goes next after the initial video. My favorite videos are the BMW B7, the passenger van, the DeLorean, and the LS1 Porsche! Thank you Sir for the awesome content!
Man, you were right on with the "Built for SEMA" comment in the first video. They made some dumb mistakes to get this out to the show, and it's amazing how little money you've put into this to get it going. The best part is I know I've seen this method of replacing bearings before from other youtubers. Most of the time they don't even have a nice lift. They do it on their back with their car on jackstands, but they use the same exact methods and get their machines back on the road. It works. You just got really lucky that you didn't have to remove any crossmembers or anything to have access to the whole bottom end. Shame about the one main, but if we're completely honest, this build would be worthy of a full rebuild or another LS swapped into it if it came to that. You'd still come ahead on value I think.
Alex, Awesome job with the rod bearings. Thank you for all the work you put into producing & editing your videos. Some of your fixes, as on the rod bearings, are showing that there is always more than one way to skin a tedious job! Keep up the best car channel on UA-cam! Joe
i did a subaru engine = got a IAG alloy sump set - sump baffles pick up and windage tray ! = $1.100 australian dollars ! - worth it for a $15,k engine . nice porsche i like the color and writing like the early ones ! thanks alex .
26:32 Nice To-Do list at this time stamp! Oh, and I got the Carly about a year ago and was able to diagnose an issue, which saved me money when I took it to the mechanic. Your discount code came in handy!
I love when you throughly explain things you do and why you do them and give us all this information I learn something new everytime I watch your videos. Thank you!
Great episode, I’ve never seen this job done before. This 911 is a brilliant project, wasnt sure about the engine at first but coming round to it. Wheels would go if it were mine… body lines and colour are perfect though!
Click my link and use my discount code “Legit23” (automatically applied) to get 15% off your order: bit.ly/Legit_Carly.
I read the dry eraser board
Get with Dr Tune Em All and he can get that thing dialed in pretty close quickly doing it remotely.
How good does carly work with your ML? I would like to know how good it is with it before I commit to buying it. I have a 1999 ML350.
I ordered my carly scanner for chevy and unfortunately upon deluvery to my house someone stole package off my porch
read your board, very nice... LOL I love your contents for all types of vehicles, it keeps me interested. I think you should do another diesel vehicle.
What’s funny is I’m not a Porsche enthusiast nor an LS swap enthusiast but I’m digging this build. Really appreciate the way Alex explains things along the way and keeps an upbeat attitude!
Thanks brother!
Agree. What makes this channel great is his explanations- almost an educational channel.
Yep, he’s very good an explaining the how and why 👍🏻
agree 1200%
@@BillBraskySOBwhat's a turn of phrase?
Hey guys I wasn't clear about what I thought the issues could be with the factory Porsche oil pressure sensor. What I meant was that they failed often and this was the original sensor. Considering the hacked-up wiring I thought there was a gauge reading issue. I said translation issues and that wasn't really the right term and didn't make a lot of sense. Thanks for watching!
Great content... thanks for keeping it real
You meant what I knew 😂😂😂
Love your positivity! It helps me through rough days. Plus, I learn a lot from you.
I thought you were expecting imperial oil pressure inside the engine but the factory gauge only reads metric oil pressure...
32:15 I found it :)
Good thing about this channel is Alex gets it done in one video, not stringing viewer out for weeks with multiple videos on the same job.
Retired Merchant Marine Captain, Marine Surveyor and occasional marine diesel mechanic, (mostly keeping my own boats running).
What I want to pass along isn't connected to this video. It came to mind when I was watching your video on brake master cylinders on the Rollie. I've noticed some Harbor Freight tools in various videos of yours. What I want to mention is that HF carries an electricians copper washer kit. In the kit, there is, I'm guessing fifty washers of various sizes. The HF copper washers are made of soft copper. I've used these washers many, many, times with never a problem. The crush washers can't/should never be reused. The point of the crush washer is to provide a distortion seal. Once distorted it's useful life is over. The washers are intended to provide a positive electrical connection. As I recall, the last time I bought a kit, it was less than five bucks. Many diesel engines use anywhere from a few to many, many of these washers. The HF product is cheap stuff indeed and works perfectly.
There is a ninty minute YT video by a guy that bought a seventy year old Rolls crate engine and brought it back to life. Well worth the time to watch.
One more thing, CLEAN YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT EVEN LEANING AGAINST THAT ROLLIE!
This was one of the best videos yet. I was
of building my first performance SBC in 1975. I was able to find a 1970 LT1 that I pulled out of a '70 Corvette. I'm surprised at how I knew the steps along the way before you got there. I also remember all
the little tricks we would do because we didn't have many of the things that are available today. Here's a shout-out to Errol Meadows who lived in Everett, Washington. I'm sure he is long gone by now, but he was an incredibly creative builder. He showed me a set of solid silver rod and main bearings he built for a 1965, 375 HP, Rochester FI motor. He had machined a mold for pouring the melted silver dollars. It was a very interesting process, to say the least. He built a lot of drag and sprint motors. That was a time where all the best builders were innovators. I did a lot of head work for him. I came up with a real breakthrough in SBC performance heads for him. I'm running out of time to tell 'the rest of the story.' (There's a reference for some old-timers!) Great job on the videos, with this one in particular.
FYI the torque+angle method is ONLY FOR NEW BOLTS. This is why "rebuilt" LS engines seem to spin bearings more often than they should, tq+angle with used bolts overtightens them quite a bit. You can verify this by marking a factory bolt, loosening, then tq+angle and see it go 45-90deg past the old mark.
I use 65lbs for inner main bolts, 55lbs for outer main, 18lbs for sides, 51lbs for gen4 rods and 45lbs for gen3 rods.
Also when upgrading to ARP rod bolts, you must either use the same torque spec OR have the rod resized. Increased torque WILL decrease clearances on the top/bottom by making it oval.
Came to mention the same about the arp rod bolts. Real easy to destroy the concentricity of the big end. Common issue I thought for sure you'd have heard about.
Not always true. Depends on the bolts and how they're made
Said the same thing 😂
Alex, I have the utmost respect for the way you are so transparent about everything you do and show your thought process as you go along. Fantastic video as always.
For polishing the crank like you did, use a flexible ruler next time. It's wider so you can wrap it around the sandpaper completely giving you more consistent pressure across the surface since it's wider than a shoe string.
Cool!
I think you mean a sewing measuring tape, about 3’ long. That’s a good idea.
@@tomfurie2996 yes, exactly. 👌
The whiteboard easter egg was a nice touch. Loving this particular build!
Alex is one of the best UA-camrs when it comes to clearly explaining the problem, the probable cause, and the recommended fix... and then doing an excellent repair! The big plus with an LSC video is that Alex is so personable and has a great sense of humor-- entertainment with your education! Hey Alex... Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family!
I found this channel randomly when you had first got the space van. And then had to binge a lot of your older videos. I like the fact that there’s no BS no drama and really informative. Definitely one of my favourite channels. Thank you Alex you do great work.
Thanks Kyle!
I feel you buddy I did the exact same thing when I came across his channel a few months ago . Great guy!
Would love to see you take this to a track and see how it does now that it shouldn’t blow up like Hoovies.
it would handle like Amish horse and wagon
why do you say that the original f6 weights pretty much the same as the ls1 if not a little heavier @@bisser6969
@@bisser6969not if the suspension is set up properly. Rear compression on the rear shocks would need to be slowed just so it doesn’t roll in the corners. 🤷🏽♂️
@@sexycummins yes that can be done but you have 150-200 pounds weight difference and engine will be further back and much, much higher. stage 3 porches performance kit will be way better option in terms of preserving the car weight distribution, this thing will overseer crazy. 25k USD is lots of money to drop on car like this. Will be a nightmare to keep it going if even possible. Best of luck guys. Hope video will pay for the car or you will end up with money pit, i have done it before with 300ZX TT, i know.
🤣
bizzer u dont know wtf youre talkin about. U dont know the the corvette aluminum engine is 42lbs lighter than the original m96 flat 6 this car came with.
I wouldnt choose a v8, but u should be sure before runnin your mouth like your nissan engine
It’s really great how this repair was explained in complete tear down and rebuild. Awesome Job!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
More Porsche LS please sir…. Love this car!!!
It’s so obvious how much effort you put into these videos. You n Max are killing it with the editing.
When polishing on the crank with sandpaper, it is best to have the oil holes straight down and when cleaning it, put the spray nozzle tube of the brake cleaner can high up inside the crank to insure no grit is left inside. It doesn't take much to ruin a new bearing.
I read your Porsche to do list. I love how informative your videos are! Now that I have an LS engine in my Yukon xl, I believe this is good stuff to know for any future repairs.
I last did any serious work on car engines 45 years ago when I was young - nothing as fancy as your 'stable', just VW air-cooled Beetles and vans :-) Watching your videos has brought back the enormous pleasure and satisfaction of working through issues and making them better. Thank you!
This guy may be the most knowledgeable and experienced high-end mechanic on UA-cam. He's really great to watch!
Fantastic video. I’ve learned many things today thank you! By the way, did you see the DoLorean on Haggerty? Johnny Carson was the first owner and was fully restored.
theres a lot of spots an ls can bleed off oil pressure, lower pressure at idle is the first sign. Look up diagram of oil passages on an ls, pick up tube oring hardens and squares off with age, the dumbell plug at the back of the engine with two orings does the same thing, and the plate that holds the camshaft in also is a critical part of sealing the pressurized oil passages. That plate has a large sealing area that flattens out and hardens with age. Those things plus engine tolerances contribute to oil pressure variations
It's really common for people to not replace the cam retainer plate, but it's only $15-20. All the factory plates I've pulled are flat as a pancake with no chance to reuse.
Yes you are speaking of internal oil leaks that you can not see.
The Mazda Miata drift guy has a list of required items that need replacing on every LS, I think you listed some of those.
Also faulty oil pressure sensors on the mid-late 2000's 5.3. My 2008 Avalanche showed low oil pressure and I feared the engine was toast. I replaced the pressure sensor and the screen that sits down in the intake and oil pressure came back to what I would consider normal.
Alex, if you don’t already have one in the shop, I highly suggest having an eye wash station.
Engine oil, or any other automotive fluid can be extremely dangerous for your eyes. You may not notice immediately but can develop infection later on.
I agree and he spent 90% of this episode without eye protection. I have a long time mechanic friend who lost his left eye from a impact gun. He hit the trigger and a spec of metal flew out of gun motor straight into his eye. Disfigured him and more.
I had one of my technicians bring me a slave cylinder once telling me it was seized. Without thinking, I squeezed that cylinder to check, and it did feel seized so I squeezed harder and it freed injecting dirty, rust filled brake fluid into my eye. We didn't have an eye wash station, and I didn't have safeties on. Got infected even after hospital flushed it forever. Ended all ok in the end, but I have worn safeties since.
Shoulda coulda woulda is not good advice after you have an accident, especially when it’s your EYES! Protect them!
Especially with that much brake cleaner, it's mostly methanol or acetone which will strip several layers off your cornea. I've heard from my mom just how painful it can be.
The brake clean sanitizes the eye so you don't get the infection. The only down side is the unbelievable pain.
You’re the best Alex. Oh and by the way, my LS powered 280k mile 2002 Silverado stock never torn down 5.3 vortec idles at around 30psi hot idle, 40 cold idle, 50-60psi highway cruising
My other LS powered vehicle is a 2002 Corvette Z06 with 51k miles- hot idle is around 35-40psi, cold idle around 50-55psi, highway cruising it stays between 50-60psi, but it will peg the oil pressure gauge when you step on it no doubt. Never opened stock 5.7 LS6 motor. Basically an LS1 like your Porsche with different heads/valvetrain/intake as you already know.
You are absolutely right though about the variation in oil pressures between “good running LS motors” some of my buddies have super low oil pressure and have no issues, some have higher pressure like my cars. I’m not sure why that is to be honest. I have noticed it though in the LS world, oil pressures are anywhere from 5psi hot idle to 40psi hot idle 🤷🏽♂️
It has to be the big swing in acceptable bearing tolerance from the factory. Thanks for posting up your results.
Kudos to the camera man/woman for all of the standing around and commitment to a quality, enthusiastic video!
"Tears of Oil"
Sounds like a love story about a mechanic...
Great catch on the rod bearings, simple cheap fix, well done.
Simple if you have a car lift and engine rebuild experience
For some people an oil change is a big job, it’s all relative.
@@Chris-hw4mq u can do that also on jackstands.. not as comfortable but doable
Very cool and informative. I’ve done this before on various engines and one thing I would do was loosen all the mains so the crank can settle just a little bit. Makes the top bearings easier to spin out. Super glad your crank was fine! I love that LS Porsche.
I love it too!! Perfect fix for a 996
I enjoy your videos and have seen you build many engines here, but for some reason, this episode for me was the best. I guess you can always tear everything down and use new parts. This was about being smart, putting in the work and getting great results. Great job.
Thanks! I use lots of used parts too. The DeLorean restoration was done with many used parts.
Alex you a mechanical font of knowledge, “torque to angle bolts”???? What?? Amazing!!!!
Long time subscriber, love the way you explain why and what your doing. Currently have an LS demonstrating the same issues. Love the channel!
This is becoming to be one of my favorite channels due to the knowledge and information. We just need daily uploads.
Thanks! Oh man daily uploads like this one would be impossible. Each video has at least 40 hours of labor between the actual job, filming and editing.
@@LegitStreetCarswe agree on the editing. It’s amazing how much time it takes to edit even a 5 minute video. But, we still can’t thank you enough for giving us the encouragement to start up our channel after watching you diligently for over a year.
Agree with comment. I’ve always wondered about those plastic gauges. Now I know.
I'd take it easy until you get through those two oil changes with filters too. My lingering concern would be where else those shavings got pumped? Cam bearings? Rocker arms? Lifters? So IMO yup, I'd take it easy until the metal shavings found in the oil go away. Might even take three oil changes. Three? Yup. Far less expensive than replacing the engine 🙂
I'm curious what the cam bearings look like. I dunno about you but that oil pressure still seams a little low to me.
They get pumped to the filter. It's only if the filter gets filled does it bypass. This is why I always disable the bypass and run the older filters w/o internal bypass or the 2015 LT-spec with the much higher bypass pressure. I'd rather have less oil than lapping compound go thru the engine.
@@hydrocarbon82A very visual reference for sure, if anyone's ever lapped valves 🙂
Saw your Easter egg on the whiteboard! Good job changing the bearings prior to failure and upgrading the baffling in the pan!
Your doing a great job at getting number 1 done on the Porsche To Do List. Gave me a good laugh. Wonder how many people noticed it.
a few years back I tired this on a 2004 grand caravan didn’t work out cuz I didn’t know you had to measure and use different bearings and the people that had videos up at the time where questionable seeing you do it gives me confidence lol
Great video, love the whiteboard. Gotta say that your channel is my favorite of all auto youtubers. Great job delivering super informative and entertaining content. You have earned your success and hope it keeps growing.
Wow, thanks!
Agreed!!!!
I love the LS swap and all the mods that were done to this car. But that motor won't last if it doesn't have good oil pressure!
It's amazing today people can own such an amazing aluminium block in their car. That were no so long ago unobtainable racing engines.
@FransvandenBergeMuziekschuur
Aluminum blocks have been common for multiple decades.
with this type of power? @@johnfox3845
Not a huge surprise that an LS swapp into a 911 (or any modified from stock) without baffles put in the oil pan had spun rod bearings. With the increased acceleration the oil will be pushed to the back of the oil pan. Add to it a persistent overheat situation and it was amazing the rod journal's weren't toast. Dodged a huge bullet. Hmmm.... maybe name the car Kugel ausweichen (German for dodge bullet).
Probably the one swap where a GTO or Trailblazer front-sump pan would really shine.
I'm sorry I had to bring up the oil pan issue, but you did find a whole bunch of hidden damage... Glad you were able to make a significant improvement in oil pressure with those very necessary mods!
Just found the channel and am enjoying the content,clear,well edited no crazy hype or drama,solid mechanical work( would have broken out the micrometer to check concentrity of rod journals and what bearings to order). Really had me when you related previous work for CTA in bus barn,have friends who worked CTA and am rebuilding trucks on south side- just installed new cab on a Volvo after frame straightened(insurance refused to total but should have). Will watch more as time allows.
Very satisfying episode, Alex! So happy to see the bearings were able to be serviced before catastrophe ensued! About the whiteboard list at 26:43. I did items 2-4 but "fix everything" seems like an awfully big job.
Same
The work that went into building that exhaust really paid off, looks and sounds great.
U need to remove the barbell from thw oil bypass and replace it with aftermarket metal one will increase you oil flow by ALOT
40:32 that vrp supercharger looking fine 🥰
You’re killing it, Alex! I love this build- a GM V8 in a German icon sports car. Thank you for the hours and hours of top-notch entertainment.
Love the dry erase board!
Love this car. Awesome content on channel.
I dig the quick and dirty repair on the bearings too.
After seeing your oil pressure after the repair, I'd bet those cam bearings are wiped too.
Would love to see you tear that thing down and get it built back right before giving it tune and ripping on it.
Alex, it’s incredible how simple you make this look … it looks so easy the way you work yourself through these intricate processes! I for sure learned a lot from this video and I love how you explain every step you are going to do! Loved the video all the way 👍👏🏻👏🏻😀
i REALLY enjoy the technical detail your experience as a mechanic really shines in your content.
I usually skip to the end on videos like this. But this series has me watching the whole thing.
You needed to check the clearance on the rod bearings with the arp bolts if thats what you planned to run. Checking them with the two different fasteners could yield a difference in clearance on its own.
Yes, it is important to not change the bolt tension from when the rod was machined. ARP bolts should match the tension of the stock bolts. This is admittedly hard to do when stock bolts are TTY and ARP are torque only.
Nice to do list lol!!! Love watching your videos. Especially the transam ones as I just bought a 4th gen firebird
I look forward to these videos all week! Have a great weekend LSC team!
My favorite car UA-cam channel! So frequent uploads and just pure car joy! Thanks for the amazing entertainment, Alex!
I used an improved racing baffle to cure oil starvation on a LS1 powered sedan (track days.) Looks great, should do the trick!
This build has been a blast to watch, love your content and all your projects! Been watching your channel for a few months now, wish I would have found it sooner, my new favorite!
Love this car and the LS power plant. Want to see the finished tuned version, should sound even more incredible. Need to build a custom air intake that utilizes the side air ducts on the body.
That hadn't occurred to me until I saw the engine. Facing the wrong way, the LS oil pan is now closer to an old Chrysler layout, where the lowest part of the sump is in the front to make room for the rear mounted steering parts. Under hard acceleration, the Mopars would oil starve which made them timebombs at the drag strip. This Porsche probably has this problem, even worse since it might be quicker than those old Chryslers. Old gearheads have said that you can add baffles but the problem never really goes away because physics.
Not to name drop other UA-camrs but Hoovie's LS swapped Porsche had oil starved issued that were blamed on sump location, and Tony Angelo mentioned it on his LS swap, and he went with a front oil sump pan.
bingo!
I would not recommend using ARP rod bolts unless you machine the rod ends if you don't you can spin a bearing. Since you tighten them to a higher spec they actually make your rod ends slightly oval and not perfectly circular.
Rolling bearing technique is genius !!
Despite the engine problems that exhaust sounds wicked!!!
Alex, Another great video. Hey, change out your exhaust mounting bolts to M8 X 1.25 studs. Then you can keep the oil pan bolted and make the exhaust even easier to remove.
Doesn’t have to remove it now 🤷🏽♂️ removing those 2 bolts won’t hurt anything and you’d still have to remove nuts.
But that exhaust is the whole problem. The design is heating the oil and thinning it. Oil pan is incased in exhaust piping.
Love this car…hope to see much more content on the 911 LS
As someone who is fifty percent Irish (on my mother's side), you did your 11 percent "fighting Irish" proud by not giving up on this potentially devastating issue. My hearty Irish congrats to you Alex! We're not called the "fighting Irish" for nothing!
Truly an amazing rod and main bearing video. Quite a bit explained and very much appreciated. This video took the mystery out of bearings for a lot of us. I definitely thank you very much for this video. Definitely a favorite.
Let's start an LS pressure thread. List your type of LS, mileage and oil pressure. Thanks!
I have the lq9 vortec max.
Mine sits around 20. And 40 cruising.
4.8 Vortec with 272k miles. I usually have around 50-55psi at cold start, 35-40 at idle, 70-80 under acceleration.
Lm7 45 psi cold. 60 on acceleration 30 hot
40 psi cold idle, 20 hot idle, 40+ above 2000rpm stock 1998 Ls1 130k miles
I read the white board! 😂
Cylinder detonation (pinging) can cause rod bearings to fail prematurely as well. Might be hard to hear knocking and pinging under load with the engine in the back like that. Doubt this thing was tuned properly when they put it together
Really surprised to see you using the ARP bolts without resizing the rods. I've seen several new builds spin rod bearings because guys skipped out on that step. Obviously resizing isn't practical for an in chassis refresh so would have been better to stick with stock bolts.
Love the build though!
Another killer job. You and your team are fantastic. Thanks for the fun white board message.
I’ve done that rolling the bearings in before. That works well most of the time.
What are you guys working on this week?
Here in Canada, big storms are approaching, so working on my snowblower and getting that fixed and ready! 😢😂
Xmas lights bro.
‘70 Boss 302 Mustang.
Trying to get a broken rusted piece of the fuel pump module send line out of the plastic fuel line that connects to it, in my LS3 swapped Escalade. For oil pressure reference, my cammed/supercharged LS1 corvette with a new oil system (melling) has a hot idle of 13-17psi @ 850rpm.
Im working on staying warm here in scotland 😂
I wish my girlfriend loved me as much as Alex loves Mercedes sunroof grease.
What happened to this build? No next video?
07 ls2, hot idle was 25psi and then it dropped to 12. Pulled pan and found lot's of bearing material. Still had 30 at cruise and no knock.
Pulled for full overhaul and had to have a rod replaced and crank welded.
Went with all new hardware from btr since it's cheap for oil I ran valvoline zr1 for break in. Intervals 500,1000 and 3000 then went back to amsoil signature series.
I definitely learned something from this video. I always believed once a bearing spun the engine seized and a total rebuild was needed. Inserting the new upper main journal bearing was a revelation also. Quite an educational video for me. Well done.
It’s funny I remember using the plastiguage in mechanics shop in high school and always wondered why we did it to pull it back apart, but now I’ve put 2 and 2 together!!! It’s for measuring after torque so you can see exacting tolerances for bearings!
Quick question though… what would make a bearing spin in the first place?
Love your vids Alex!
I don't even have a car but I love watching your video's! Very interesting, entertaining and true craftsmanship. Thanks Alex and Max!
Throughly enjoy your EduTainment (educational and entertaining) videos. When I work on my older 745i BMW, I also talk to my parts.
With lubrication being very important for every vehicle, I've been using Bestline Racing NanoLube engine oil treatment in addition to very regular oil changes. It supposed to dramatically reduce friction between metal parts and I've seen a small bump in mpg. With an older car, I could use a magic additive.
300,000 mile + 6.0 03' Silverado-40psi oil pressure cold start---drops to 30-35 when fully warm, stays well above psi vs. rpm. Rpm 4,000--psi 50ish That's with 5-30 in the winter. Summer w/ 10-30 is much better. This engine/mileage issue is piston slap. It's tuned and I drive it appropriately, new engine and transmission coming this summer.
You can show me the oil pressure spring in that pump with as many as two to three 5 mm washers.
You can also use that device that squares oil into the bottom of the engine and make sure it's got the Shroud on it but take that off and not the dimple of the top of it down a little bit and that will increase your pressure by about 7 to 10 lbs. Anything much further than that would require either disassembly of the pump to make sure you make some clearances in it or using a higher pressure or higher volume oil pump. The other problem you may be running into is a problem with the oil pressure screen, but you're pulling oil pressure from a different part so that shouldn't be an issue, but that would also have warned you about metal in the oil much earlier. By using the original equipment oil pressure sending unit point. I have built a few of these engines, I do like their design, the problem I have with them is the dod system which you obviously shouldn't have on that particular example. Displacement On Demand is an insanely stupid thing to do to a V8 engine. There's no reason why you can't have that thing rather than shutting off four cylinders, just running lean when torque isn't needed. You can lean an engine quite a bit without causing any damage whatsoever, that was has been proven since World War II when Charles Lindbergh showed the US Army Air corps how to double the length of their sorties with their P38.
Think about it, what would you do to double your gas mileage period when you're just trying to get from point A to point B at normal Cruise speed?
As long as you're there, put ARP Hardware bonnet. I've never been a fan of torque to yield bolts. They are capable of being reused but the entire concept of intentionally causing a portion of the Metallurgy to fail, doesn't sit well with me.
Just a suggestion, when you refill the oil quantity. Put in 5 quarts of oil, a quart of transmission fluid in about 6 oz of fr3. You can put the entire bottle of fr3 in it but you'll have to reduce some of the transmission fluid. Fr3 is a great additive and will help protect a lot of those surfaces and you might even want to wait until at least a little bit of a break-in time for those bearings. All of the seals in the engine will light the transmission fluid and it will not be a problem whatsoever. If you are nervous about that, then use some transmission fluid in it for about a week before you do an oil change or better yet some Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before you do an oil change, it will help keep the engine clean and it is especially helpful with keeping the lifters completely clear of problems.
15 ft lbs on the at least you understand that sometimes when they say you have to replace a bolt, if it's for the purpose of sealing can I guess you can seal it. I actually had somebody argue with me on that point the first time I rebuilt one of these.
I would use one more 2000 grit on that. Or even a finer grit. The higher the Polish the less horsepower loss.
Not sure whether you noticed or not but the original baffle, in that oil pan would work great and a drag strip while that oil pan is turned backwards.
And if it were up to me I would put those two bolts on the back of that oil pan like they're supposed to be. I'm not sure why somebody thought it was okay to emit those two bolts. But they really should be there. But you really want all the bolts to be there even though it's a cast pan and maybe it won't be a problem. But what if it is a problem.
One really good video. I just bought my first Chevrolet ever, it does have an LS in it but it also has the dod system in it. I still want to hunt down every engineer that ever thought that this was a good idea and force them to marry a really bad ex-wife.
I still think it should be putting out better oil pressure at that higher Rev when warm. I'm not a fan of the standard STP oil filter, a K&N 2011 actually works quite well on those engines.
What you did is a perfect example of how to replace your Rod caps. And even most of your mains.
Just finished watching this playlist and can’t wait for an update on the Porsche.
Every 2nd oil change or so, I send a small sample of my oil for analysis to a company like BlackStone Labs. They provide very useful chemical and particulate analysis, including the level of copper present in my used oil; this is a super easy early warning sign of bearing issues. In fact, your iron level would probably start increasing even before the copper becomes present. There are a host of other traces the look for as well. Prior sample numbers are retained for each vehicle, so successive analyses show trends or sudden changes. Think of it as the bloodwork you have done at your annual physical.
My first turbo 5.3 had similar oil pressure as you are experiencing. When engine was put in it had 60 psi cold idle and 50psi hot idle. Accidentally starved it of oil and it immediately dropped 20 psi across the board. It lasted about 7k miles and slowly lost pressure throughout those 7k miles. Eventually got to about where yours is and started knocking. I pulled it apart to find a spun rod bearing. That oil looked just like mine did unfortunately. Probably gunna need a rebuild
I came across your site for the first time today and really enjoyed it. Your enthusiasm and excitement makes you very watchable, but more importantly to me you are a trained motor engineer who knows his stuff! It's quite frightening to watch some UA-cam videos of car rebuilds by untrained people who make it up as they go along, and pass the car on. Good luck with your future adventures.
Mine runs 40-45 cold idle, 30-35 warm idle, and around 50 in throttle. It's an lm7 with summit 8707 cam and pac 1219 springs. For reference my idle is around 1000rpm with this cam. Mine used to not like cold start but is cable throttle so I opened the blade a few turns. And starts with no input now. I run mine to 6800 and have hit limiter quite a lot heating the tires and has held up great. Stock bottom end with gen iv pan.
I've found the fox well elm327 with dash command app is also great. Helped me monitor fuel pressure on my Volvo 3.0t t6 I could see it drop to 0 which confirmed it was indeed the pressure sensor on the rail. Also have vida which allows you to even change heated seat temps as well as fire individual coils, injectors, etc. great tool! I'm a Volvo guy at heart. Have an older 98 S70 T5M I swapped a modern 5 cyl into that runs a 12.3 which is plenty for a 3000lbs fwd lol.. fun little car. The LS is actually in a 1990 240 sedan.. always learn a lot watching your videos. Very clear speaker and thorough. Great work as always!
Never had a Porsche, I fancy a 911 4wd having said that. Enjoying your Porsche experience, what would be worrying me is where the metal fragments have potentially gone, on a scale of 1 > 10 how much attention is the oil pressure gauge going to get in future - I think that's an 11 !!
Glad it wasn't as bad as you thought. Cant wait to see it back on the road.
I have been watching your videos over the last few months and I noticed how organized you are. Would it be possible for you to do a video on how you organize (for the most part ) your jobs and how you stay organized? I always have the problem of rushing projects, you do such a good job of step-by-step.
Your channel is one of my favorites! I'm subscribed for "all" w/ notifications, but I'm not always able to watch right away. Is there a way that I can sync the videos in order? I can literally sit and watch hours of your videos when I have the time, but it's hard to know what video goes next after the initial video. My favorite videos are the BMW B7, the passenger van, the DeLorean, and the LS1 Porsche! Thank you Sir for the awesome content!
ive watched you for some time now and by far your channel is the most informative yet entertaining mechanic channel on youtube, keep it up!
Man, you were right on with the "Built for SEMA" comment in the first video. They made some dumb mistakes to get this out to the show, and it's amazing how little money you've put into this to get it going. The best part is I know I've seen this method of replacing bearings before from other youtubers. Most of the time they don't even have a nice lift. They do it on their back with their car on jackstands, but they use the same exact methods and get their machines back on the road. It works. You just got really lucky that you didn't have to remove any crossmembers or anything to have access to the whole bottom end. Shame about the one main, but if we're completely honest, this build would be worthy of a full rebuild or another LS swapped into it if it came to that. You'd still come ahead on value I think.
Love the whiteboard! Been watching from the start and love your videos. Thanks for being genuine and down to earth!
I'm here just because of the "to-do list"! 😂✌️
Great video, man! Keep up the good work! Cheers from Brazil! 🇧🇷
Alex,
Awesome job with the rod bearings. Thank you for all the work you put into producing & editing your videos. Some of your fixes, as on the rod bearings, are showing that there is always more than one way to skin a tedious job!
Keep up the best car channel on UA-cam!
Joe
i did a subaru engine = got a IAG alloy sump set - sump baffles pick up and windage tray ! = $1.100 australian dollars ! - worth it for a $15,k engine . nice porsche i like the color and writing like the early ones ! thanks alex .
26:32 Nice To-Do list at this time stamp!
Oh, and I got the Carly about a year ago and was able to diagnose an issue, which saved me money when I took it to the mechanic. Your discount code came in handy!
I love when you throughly explain things you do and why you do them and give us all this information I learn something new everytime I watch your videos. Thank you!
Great episode, I’ve never seen this job done before. This 911 is a brilliant project, wasnt sure about the engine at first but coming round to it. Wheels would go if it were mine… body lines and colour are perfect though!
Have done this operation on an volvo 2.5t engine also. Nice to see someone else do it too! 👌👌