thanks for the video.... these youtube videos are the life's blood of a auto DIY'er.... and I appreciate the touch of humor, and the friend coming over
Great video. I wasn't sure if I wanted to take the time or expend the energy to take mine out myself just to give it a paint touch up but now I am certain. I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild/swap for a stroker and just finished painting it. After seeing how awesome it looked I decided it was time to give all of my other black accessories a touch up as well. Thanks for the informative video.
Thanks for the excellent video. I just had the same issue with my 99 WJ and your video was perfect. I have a question though. Now that it all back together, the brake lights stay on all the time. It appears that there is about a 1/4" (maybe less) gap between the brake pedal arm and the switch. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the rod coming from the booster to the pedal. What can be going on with this? UPDATE: Found the answer if anyone else is having the same issue. The plunger on the light switch can be adjusted by pulling out or pushing in. You might have to pull really hard to break it loose. I actually used a small screwdriver and using the screwdriver shaft under the head of the plunger, gently pried. Of course it went to far so then just pushed it back to the proper length.
yea, i did not catch that until i saw your comment. that is something good to keep an eye out for also thought that the push rod should always be adjusted too
Maybe they didn't have this issue but on my 93 Country the biggest pain of this job was getting the holes of the firewall to align with the steering column bracket that the booster bolts have to pass thru. It takes a lot of moving, prying, bending, and cursing the bracket to get everything to align. I have done this job twice and this part sucked every time. It takes two people for sure. The last time I decided to slightly widen the top two holes on the bracket with my drill so that the job would be easier next time. With the larger holes, the booster slips in with no problem. From my experience, you definitely have to get the top holes pushed thru first because its easier to move the bracket around for the bottom holes.
I have a 2016 Jeep Wrangler and I am in the process of replacing my brake booster, I noticed that I need to adjust the brake booster push rod to the master cylinder. After adjusting the master cylinder depth, I found a major discrepancy while adjusting the push rod pin, the pin will not reach the depth of the master cylinder! Is there something I’m doing wrong?
I'm about to tackle the booster and master cylinder in my 97 Wrangler. When I first heard the hissing sound of mine, I thought it was the wear indicators on my front brakes. The clue that it wasn't the indicators was the sound occurred with the Jeep fully stopped and the brake pedal pushed. The sound stopped when the pedal was released. Not knowing anything about the brake system, I did what most people do, googled it. That brought me to lots of informative UA-cam videos including this one and it became apparent that I had a booster failure. I learned that the hissing sound was air being sucked into the booster underneath the dash because the diaphragm in the booster had failed. Why did it fail? Age? It is an old Jeep. I had also periodically had to add brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir though there weren't any visible signs of leakage. Where was it going? No doubt into the brake booster. Perhaps the brake fluid is what caused the diaphragm to fail. When JeepSolid removed his booster, you could see fluid inside it. I'm wondering if his booster is going to fail again since the master cylinder is probably still leaking. With that much fluid in it, the master cylinder must have had to be topped off occasionally. This scenario is why I decided to also replace my master cylinder. This is all such fun stuff! I've also learned that there are many different techniques to bench bleed the master cylinder. The manufacturer of mine had the easiest method. Plug the brake line ports with included threaded plastic plugs and simply depress the piston slowly several times until air bubbles can no longer be seen in the reservoir and the plunger can't be depressed more than 1/8". My biggest concern is not damaging the two brake lines. One video recommended applying some penetrating oil to the line nuts to allow them to rotate easily when they're turned without breaking the lines. As I write this, oil is loosening up those two nuts. Hopefully, within a few hours, this whole event will be behind me and all of this stuff can be forgotten. I wrote all of this here to hopefully help someone else going through the same experience.
JeepSolid hey I did it. But I faced a problem where I should press the pedal till the bottom to start feeling the breaking. I think the adjustment should be done on the rode of the booster
The bolt holes inside the cab have slipped down and aren't lining up with the firewall holes after we removed the bolts. Is there any way to get the bolt holes back in place? We can't get the booster back on until they do. Thanks!!!
My 94 YJ is hissing like a snake just like this! Lol all though I think the install process will be easier on my Jeep. If it’s making that noise it for sure needs to be replaced right?
I have a question, I had the same problem in my 1995 jeep grand cherokee laredo and they changed the booster but now all the tires are braked and the brake light sensor goes out of place when you release the brake, the pedal seems to be way forward and pushing the sensor out. what do you think is the problem
Did this on my 98 zj. 14mm bolts inside, 13mm by the master cylinder. Having an extra set of hands when removing the master cyclinder is helpful. No my r1 brakes stop on a dime.
Thank you very much for this video! Would the repair be similar on a 1987 Jeep Wrangler? The hissing is driving me crazy. It’s making my Jeep’s idle fluctuate while waiting at a red light😣
@@davidswing4700 - I am still troubleshooting this issue. I changed the back 3 brake lines. If this doesn't fix my issue the master cylinder and booster will be my next move.
@@JeepSolid Man, it took me all like 5 hours... That bolt in the upper left by the brake pedal, and me with janky tools... Finally got it done, I have great brakes again, but my jeep won't turn over now... I am hoping it is because of a low battery because the driver door was open for 6 hours, and or it is not happy about the cold weather, but I fear I jostled the mess of wires that are under the steering wheel and got something loose... Time will tell. I have it trickle charging as I type this. I swear, it is fix one thing, 2 more break with this POS... 95 ZJs for ya I guess... But without this video, it would have sucked so much worse, so thanks again!
Here all we did was unbolt the master cylinder from the mount. So no bleeding required. If you open the system at all, that is when you'll have to bleed the brakes.
I have a problem 1999 Jeep I mash the break peddle and hissing i do here but it want come to a complete stop. is it both master cylinder and brake booster?
Boy, that's a tough one without seeing it myself. It could definitely be both, or just one.... No leaking fluid? And when you have the pedal pressed, does it lose pressure? To me, that would indicate it's the master cylinder.
Thank you. So helpful. I got this problem two days ago. Unfortunately, I can not get a new one where I am at, and I've got a long drive (+500km) til I am home. Fortunately, it does not seem to be a problem, although the rev meter is a bit unstable.
Hello helpful people :) I have a 2004 Jeep GC. I did front brakes calipers and rotors about a month ago. The brakes never felt like brand new ones from the get go. But as time has gone on, the brake pedal got lower and lower and softer and softer. Now, I have to stay way back from traffic because I cannot stop my Jeep quickly at ALL. Even w pedal mashed to the floor the Jeep coasts a bit before coming to a stop. There are no fluid leaks. I hear no hissing. Does this indicate I new master cylinder? Does anyone have any expert advice? I’m in a pickle and need some help. Thank you in advance :)
what did you do? i’m having a similar situation with my xj.. now that i replaced all the drum break components and wheel cylinders in the rear and calipers in the front and i can’t build any pressure and ik i’m bleeding them right. i started driver side front then worked from the front to back.. kind of in a bind over it because it’s my daily… i’m no mechanic by any means but i can turn a wrench. it’s a scary thing pressing the breaks and you don’t stop 😂
Anyone else stuck on the bottom right bolt for the booster. Lodged right up against the steering column 🤬. Edit: I got it off with exactly the right tools. 1/4” 14 mil semi deep socket. One 1/4-3/8 adapter, 3/8” elbow , on a long adapter. Came off easy
I called a company here in Sweden, that told me that I could buy a break booster from Italy for $670, not including shipping. Then I looked up break boosters on eBay, and found a new one for $155 + shipping & import $84. I think I made a deal. =) Then I used your video as a guide, and together with a little help, managed to do the change. I recon I have saved about $700+ in total, not driving my car to a mechanic. Now, my break lights are on while the car is off? Is there some kind of sensor that needs to be replaced?
Thanks! Glad it helped you out. This response to the brake light issue on topix.com may be helpful "Kevin from Canada was headed in the right direction. There is a brake light switch in front of your brake arm. It attaches to a mount in front of your brake pedal. When the brake is pressed, the arm on your brake pedal extends towards the front of the car and releases the plunger on the switch turning on your brake light. I just looked under the dash of my girlfriends car, and the brake light switch had fallen off.. Just a thought, sounds like a shortcut to a quick fix, but maybe a zip tie would hold it in place for a more permanent fix to prevent it from "falling off again". I remounted it and works like a champ. Thanks to these forums, vehicle owners can repair alot of your own cars without the expense of automotive mechanics price tag??? Good luck with yours..."
This causes the jeep not the brake right cause I’m dealing with this problem rn it’s not wanting to brake I’m having to use my hand brand I got a jeep Cherokee 1999 2wd
Uh...I think the task will become easier if you remove certain section of the dashboard to provide easy access to inside parts of the booster. But here you just show the task can be done without removing any section of the dashboard. I myself find it's quite painful working under the dashboard.
Wow this is from 8 years ago. I'm gonna be replacing my brake booster here shortly. Your video is still helpful to this day 😂❤
Congratulations; if you're here, you are now a mechanic.
Yall made getting under the dash easy, my back hurts now
thanks for the video.... these youtube videos are the life's blood of a auto DIY'er.... and I appreciate the touch of humor, and the friend coming over
Thanks! Glad they help ya out, and yeah, it's always more fun working on a project with a friend.
Great video. I wasn't sure if I wanted to take the time or expend the energy to take mine out myself just to give it a paint touch up but now I am certain. I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild/swap for a stroker and just finished painting it. After seeing how awesome it looked I decided it was time to give all of my other black accessories a touch up as well. Thanks for the informative video.
Very cool! Thanks for watching.
Dont forget to confirm the brake rod depth prior to install! They dont all come set with the same dimensions. Rod length is critical.
Stephen Patton How can you determine if it is correct.? Is there a proper factory measurement?
I was wondering about the rod length also, I don't see any adjustment on the ZJ rod,
@@Bradyvilleboy measure from the booster base to the end of the push rod where the pedal connects
Thanks for the excellent video. I just had the same issue with my 99 WJ and your video was perfect.
I have a question though. Now that it all back together, the brake lights stay on all the time. It appears that there is about a 1/4" (maybe less) gap between the brake pedal arm and the switch. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the rod coming from the booster to the pedal.
What can be going on with this?
UPDATE:
Found the answer if anyone else is having the same issue.
The plunger on the light switch can be adjusted by pulling out or pushing in. You might have to pull really hard to break it loose. I actually used a small screwdriver and using the screwdriver shaft under the head of the plunger, gently pried. Of course it went to far so then just pushed it back to the proper length.
You need to replace the master cylinder as well. It is leaking as indicated by the brake fluid sloshing around in the old booster.
yea, i did not catch that until i saw your comment. that is something good to keep an eye out for
also thought that the push rod should always be adjusted too
Maybe they didn't have this issue but on my 93 Country the biggest pain of this job was getting the holes of the firewall to align with the steering column bracket that the booster bolts have to pass thru. It takes a lot of moving, prying, bending, and cursing the bracket to get everything to align. I have done this job twice and this part sucked every time. It takes two people for sure. The last time I decided to slightly widen the top two holes on the bracket with my drill so that the job would be easier next time. With the larger holes, the booster slips in with no problem. From my experience, you definitely have to get the top holes pushed thru first because its easier to move the bracket around for the bottom holes.
Yall did a really good job with this one. Thanks again!
Thanks Dale, you make it look easy.
I have a 2016 Jeep Wrangler and I am in the process of replacing my brake booster, I noticed that I need to adjust the brake booster push rod to the master cylinder. After adjusting the master cylinder depth, I found a major discrepancy while adjusting the push rod pin, the pin will not reach the depth of the master cylinder! Is there something I’m doing wrong?
Thanks for that. I feel confident I can do my '99 Cherokee.
Nice! Glad it helped ya out.
Best explanation ever! Good job guys!
Thanks!
I'm about to tackle the booster and master cylinder in my 97 Wrangler. When I first heard the hissing sound of mine, I thought it was the wear indicators on my front brakes. The clue that it wasn't the indicators was the sound occurred with the Jeep fully stopped and the brake pedal pushed. The sound stopped when the pedal was released. Not knowing anything about the brake system, I did what most people do, googled it. That brought me to lots of informative UA-cam videos including this one and it became apparent that I had a booster failure. I learned that the hissing sound was air being sucked into the booster underneath the dash because the diaphragm in the booster had failed. Why did it fail? Age? It is an old Jeep. I had also periodically had to add brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir though there weren't any visible signs of leakage. Where was it going? No doubt into the brake booster. Perhaps the brake fluid is what caused the diaphragm to fail. When JeepSolid removed his booster, you could see fluid inside it. I'm wondering if his booster is going to fail again since the master cylinder is probably still leaking. With that much fluid in it, the master cylinder must have had to be topped off occasionally. This scenario is why I decided to also replace my master cylinder. This is all such fun stuff! I've also learned that there are many different techniques to bench bleed the master cylinder. The manufacturer of mine had the easiest method. Plug the brake line ports with included threaded plastic plugs and simply depress the piston slowly several times until air bubbles can no longer be seen in the reservoir and the plunger can't be depressed more than 1/8". My biggest concern is not damaging the two brake lines. One video recommended applying some penetrating oil to the line nuts to allow them to rotate easily when they're turned without breaking the lines. As I write this, oil is loosening up those two nuts. Hopefully, within a few hours, this whole event will be behind me and all of this stuff can be forgotten. I wrote all of this here to hopefully help someone else going through the same experience.
Good information! I love hearing others first hand accounts of what they experienced. Hope it helps others. Thx!
Thank you for the video,
I will try to do it on my 92 wrangler yj alone. Keep you posted how things will go.
Very cool! Yeah, let me know how it goes.
JeepSolid hey I did it. But I faced a problem where I should press the pedal till the bottom to start feeling the breaking. I think the adjustment should be done on the rode of the booster
Like birthing a baby!! lol. Excellent install video!
Good stuff, eh?
+TrailRecon I like the 'putting the baby back in' part. hehe..
😂 😅😅😅
The bolt holes inside the cab have slipped down and aren't lining up with the firewall holes after we removed the bolts. Is there any way to get the bolt holes back in place? We can't get the booster back on until they do. Thanks!!!
Didn’t have any spacer. Gasket was bad. Went in raw. Is that going to cause problems?
With have a faulty break booster what do it feel like?
My 94 YJ is hissing like a snake just like this! Lol all though I think the install process will be easier on my Jeep. If it’s making that noise it for sure needs to be replaced right?
I have a question, I had the same problem in my 1995 jeep grand cherokee laredo and they changed the booster but now all the tires are braked and the brake light sensor goes out of place when you release the brake, the pedal seems to be way forward and pushing the sensor out.
what do you think is the problem
Do you have to bleed the booster? First time changing one
.But you never said anything about bleeding anything
Will that work on a 2001 cherokee sport.
Do u have to bleed your brakes after this
Another great video! I see you have been practicing your jeep yoga
+The Bearded Jeeper Haha! Thanks man!
Did this on my 98 zj. 14mm bolts inside, 13mm by the master cylinder. Having an extra set of hands when removing the master cyclinder is helpful. No my r1 brakes stop on a dime.
Did you have to bleed all the breaks
You really put that baby back in, too funny you guys should be doing stand-up
Haha! Thanks.
Thank you very much for this video! Would the repair be similar on a 1987 Jeep Wrangler? The hissing is driving me crazy. It’s making my Jeep’s idle fluctuate while waiting at a red light😣
Yes. very similar.
Is there a need to bleed the brakes once you break the seal at the booster?
I’m wondering the same thing did you have to?
@@davidswing4700 - I am still troubleshooting this issue. I changed the back 3 brake lines. If this doesn't fix my issue the master cylinder and booster will be my next move.
Should I bleed the breaks after changing the break booster
No need to if you don't open the fluid system.
Thank you SO much for this video! It is exactly what I needed. How much different is the grand Cherokee to the grand Cherokee limited? Any idea?
Thank you! The process is very similar among many models
@@JeepSolid Man, it took me all like 5 hours... That bolt in the upper left by the brake pedal, and me with janky tools... Finally got it done, I have great brakes again, but my jeep won't turn over now... I am hoping it is because of a low battery because the driver door was open for 6 hours, and or it is not happy about the cold weather, but I fear I jostled the mess of wires that are under the steering wheel and got something loose... Time will tell. I have it trickle charging as I type this. I swear, it is fix one thing, 2 more break with this POS... 95 ZJs for ya I guess... But without this video, it would have sucked so much worse, so thanks again!
@@chadmathers9328 how’d it go?
You don't need to adjust the brake fluid? Like bleed the lines or anything?
If you just replace the booster you aren't opening up the hydraulic system, so no need to bleed.
You don’t have to bleed the brakes after disconnecting the master cylinder? Others have said I would have to???
Here all we did was unbolt the master cylinder from the mount. So no bleeding required. If you open the system at all, that is when you'll have to bleed the brakes.
Subbed really enjoyed your video! Going to be a first time owner of a Jeep soon. 😀
Awesome! Welcome to the club.
I have a problem 1999 Jeep I mash the break peddle and hissing i do here but it want come to a complete stop. is it both master cylinder and brake booster?
Boy, that's a tough one without seeing it myself. It could definitely be both, or just one.... No leaking fluid? And when you have the pedal pressed, does it lose pressure? To me, that would indicate it's the master cylinder.
I have the same problem on my Heep. I'm going to change my booster out today hoping it fixs it.
Joe Humes Did replacing the brake booster fix your issue?
Yes it did.
I searched for Cherokee, and youtube puts this, Grand Cherokee, at the top of the list. 🙄
Is the brake booster also called Master Cylinder ?
The brake booster is the large round drum. It works with a vacuum. The master cylinder is the smaller metal box all the break lines run into.
I can see fluid in the brake booster... doesn't that mean that the master cylinder needs to be replaced? You may be burning brake fluid
Is it the same process on a jeep wrangler YJ 1991 ??
Giovani22 Yeah, the process is super similar.
Thank you. So helpful. I got this problem two days ago. Unfortunately, I can not get a new one where I am at, and I've got a long drive (+500km) til I am home. Fortunately, it does not seem to be a problem, although the rev meter is a bit unstable.
Hope you made it ok.
So I have an old 1984 jeep Cherokee, same kinda thing you think?
Yep, most brake boosters function and replacement are very similar. Post a reply with how it goes! Thx.
Hello helpful people :) I have a 2004 Jeep GC. I did front brakes calipers and rotors about a month ago. The brakes never felt like brand new ones from the get go. But as time has gone on, the brake pedal got lower and lower and softer and softer. Now, I have to stay way back from traffic because I cannot stop my Jeep quickly at ALL. Even w pedal mashed to the floor the Jeep coasts a bit before coming to a stop.
There are no fluid leaks. I hear no hissing. Does this indicate I new master cylinder?
Does anyone have any expert advice? I’m in a pickle and need some help. Thank you in advance :)
what did you do? i’m having a similar situation with my xj.. now that i replaced all the drum break components and wheel cylinders in the rear and calipers in the front and i can’t build any pressure and ik i’m bleeding them right. i started driver side front then worked from the front to back.. kind of in a bind over it because it’s my daily… i’m no mechanic by any means but i can turn a wrench. it’s a scary thing pressing the breaks and you don’t stop 😂
Anyone else stuck on the bottom right bolt for the booster. Lodged right up against the steering column 🤬.
Edit: I got it off with exactly the right tools. 1/4” 14 mil semi deep socket. One 1/4-3/8 adapter, 3/8” elbow , on a long adapter. Came off easy
I called a company here in Sweden, that told me that I could buy a break booster from Italy for $670, not including shipping.
Then I looked up break boosters on eBay, and found a new one for $155 + shipping & import $84. I think I made a deal. =)
Then I used your video as a guide, and together with a little help, managed to do the change.
I recon I have saved about $700+ in total, not driving my car to a mechanic.
Now, my break lights are on while the car is off? Is there some kind of sensor that needs to be replaced?
Thanks! Glad it helped you out.
This response to the brake light issue on topix.com may be helpful
"Kevin from Canada was headed in the right direction. There is a brake
light switch in front of your brake arm. It attaches to a mount in
front of your brake pedal. When the brake is pressed, the arm on your
brake pedal extends towards the front of the car and releases the
plunger on the switch turning on your brake light. I just looked under
the dash of my girlfriends car, and the brake light switch had fallen
off.. Just a thought, sounds like a shortcut to a quick fix, but maybe a
zip tie would hold it in place for a more permanent fix to prevent it
from "falling off again". I remounted it and works like a champ.
Thanks to these forums, vehicle owners can repair alot of your own cars
without the expense of automotive mechanics price tag??? Good luck with
yours..."
Super helpful!!! Thank you!
Do I need to bleed my brakes after
Only if you open the break fluid system, or it leaks fluid.
Will this translate to my YJ?
+Eamon Kelly It is very similar.
Why does it look like you cut the push rod on the brake?
Humm.. what time point did it look like that? Didn't cut it.
Good video 👍🏼
Well done 👍
Thank you!
Thanks. Great video
Gracias, buen vídeo
Great video.
Thank you!
This causes the jeep not the brake right cause I’m dealing with this problem rn it’s not wanting to brake I’m having to use my hand brand I got a jeep Cherokee 1999 2wd
The brake booster aids in braking, but if it fails, you should still be able to brake, but it will be more difficult.
Yea it was verry difficult
mine is different than yours mine is 1995 the steering column is closer to the brake pedal than yours
This is a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited v8 5.2L. What's yours? Brake booster replacement is fairly similar on these vehicles.
my jeep is a 4.0
I will have to save this video for later. Thanks
oh that's why yours is a V8 mine is a 4.0 the steering column is different
Yeah, that makes sense. Let me know how the job goes. Thanks for watching!
It was a pain because the steering column was anyway but I got it done
Video did help some
Cool. Thx!
Flexible. Nice Video.
Thank you for the video
+Che The Best. No prob. Hope it helped ya out.
Uh...I think the task will become easier if you remove certain section of the dashboard to provide easy access to inside parts of the booster. But here you just show the task can be done without removing any section of the dashboard. I myself find it's quite painful working under the dashboard.
Yeah, I hate working under the dash. At least it's just a few bolts.
Thank you so much
No problem.
Thanks a lot.
+Saifaldeen Abdullah you're welcome.
My 99 has the exact same problem
Nice. Got it fixed?
JeepSolid In the process of doing that. I just bought it last night. The dude I bought if from told me it had that issue already.
That's good. Pretty easy fix.
Let's go Oakland!
thanks
+william Thurston np
I cannot for the life of me. Get my master cylinder to move without taking the lines off i really dont want to. Butttt idk.
رائع جدا جدا شكرا شكرا
Just replaced mine then my gf crashes my jeep, fml.
Birthing a baby ?
Carol Burnett said .
"Giving birth is like taking your lower lip and forcing it over your head "
Think I'd rather do 12 Boosters !
"It's a super easy project"
Haha who can guess the game the outro song is from
U forgot to bleed the lines
Uhhhh….? For a break booster?
@@JeepSolid yes..pump the brake to remove air from master cylinder after attaching to brake booster
@@ramonfalcon4506he opened the lines to air just undid the mounting bracket. He didn't need to bleed