How To Test & Replace the Brake Booster and Brake Booster Vacuum Hose
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2019
- Today we'll be showing how to test and replace the brake booster and the brake booster vacuum line. The vacuum line tends to be an easy repair for most vehicles. The brake booster is a bit more involved, nonetheless, it's certainly something the novice mechanic or dyi can accomplish at home.
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Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.
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#brakebooster - Авто та транспорт
Well you just saved me $449. I had almost zero brakes. Maybe 5% and it was stuttering the engine idle, trying to die on me. It was just some little T barb in the vacuum line had a cap fall off. I put my finger there to plug that open T and the idle improved. So i found a screw and rubber.and made my own plug, and brakes working as should again. Thanks!!!
P.s. i just so happened to have a Honda Vtec too (08 CRV), so the similar visuals made it super easy to check lines
As a note for others, my brake pedal was extremely solid and wouldnt barely move up or down even with tons of force applied. Having car running, they felt the same as the car off. All that power lost from a tiny hole in the line. Now I'm back in action! Thanks again!!
I'm having this same hardness issue with my brake pedal, except when I press brakes slight the idle goes up, and when I press the pedal really hard the idle drops to normal idle
That was about the clearest video and verbal explanation I have ever seen . Thankyou
I don’t know what it is, but your explanations, your descriptions, and your demeanor was very helpful and as simplistic but yet exactly what the doctor ordered!! Thank you good sir!!
my mans even completing the video during a rainstorm
Real MVP
He finally took a bath! (Just kidding!) 😂 Mechanic humor can be vicious.
Thats ur man? Dammm bro, congrats!!🎉🎉 🌈🌈🌈
He must be a Company Man
From h6 @@happyjoyousandfree6721
Excellent video and explanation. I will be using your tutorial to diagnose the hiss when my wife pushes the brake in on her cord edge. Thank you for taking the time to being this to us, well done.
Great job, thanks for your thorough explanation and multiple tests.
Thanks, I just changed the master brake cylinder and driverside brake line, both front side calipers and brakes in the front (driverside caliper wasn't opening fully dragging), bled the entire dark color brake fluid system out too, but still not 100 % I believe it's the booster, the brake pedal area I hear a air noise...I have the new brake booster in my garage ready, ill do your trouble shooting first, thank you sir!. Details: just got my truck 2nd hand 99 F150 V8 4.6 ABS 230,000 miles
Thank you for such a thorough video!! Thank you for also linking to the master cylinder video, that is infinitely helpful. Very informative.
Thankyou man. Great easy steps for diagnosing boosters. Watching all the way from Papua new guinea
Rubber hose on the vice grips is a very very nice touch, great idea and I’m totally doing that
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Very useful.
A few days ago, I changed the cooling fan in a Kia Soul I bought from my nephew. To do that I had to remove the intake. When I backed it out, I noticed a very hard brake pedal. I could hear a hissing sound. After watching this and a few other vids, its pretty obvious a line is disconnected or perforated. The brakes worked fine before the cooling fan job. And I was about to drive the damn thing to a Kia dealership. Many thanks.
same issue on my VW CC - need to find the leak!
This video was so helpful! Thank you for your time. God bless you sir.
Thank you! I wish I saw this before I replaced my master cylinder. I thought the rod (going to MC) was a solid rod going right to your pedal. Being as it solely relies on pressure to engage the WHOLE braking system, now it makes a lot more sense to me!
One of the best videos in my opinion.
God bless you!
Outstanding video! Thank you
Great video! Thanks for the help!
Very useful, thank you. I brought a bmw 1 series last month and for the first time today I was unable to start it as the brake pedal was rock solid. Tried multiple times but gave up and I rang my dad. Typically, it started for him first attempt with no issue... so he thought it was a me issue until we started reading some forum posts and found out about this issue
Very clear and understandable ! Thanks .
Awesome video explanation, just did all the tests everything fine, no leaks based on your test suggestions. Yet, still pressing the brake pedal makes RPM increase. What to test, look for next?
Thanks very insightful video! Appreciate your dedication as well.
Excellent instructions, you are a good teacher
Great video. Thanks!
This helped me today. Great video.
Very well explained. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Happy to help.
Awesome, video, very detailed. After removing the air intake to do some maintenance I now have a hard brake pedal - I am pretty sure I have a vacuum leak, and this video shows me exactly how to troubleshoot
Glad it helped!
this BIG help, to see if brake booster bad, appreciate SO MUCH ty
also the shady mechanic said master cylinder when hard brake, he just after money ty for saving me money
Great vid! Thank you. How do know if your check valve is bad?
Great job. A very smart and intelligent man.
great video,thanks keep up the good work
Great video, thank you
Nice video sir! Thank you 🤙🏾
Thank broski! I needed this
Best explained video I've seen! I do have a question if you have a min to answer? If booster or cylinder go out, will there be signs of fluid leaking? I've followed the steps in your video to check for leaks but I couldn't do the clamping of the hose because there is no valve except for right at the booster!
Great video explained very well.
thanks for the helpful video, job done!
Exactly what I needed. Thank youuuuuuuu
Great video ! Thank you!
Great video thanks for posting
Thanks for your help.
Thank you very much, this information provided as thorough and detail. 👍🏾🇹🇹💯🤓
Must say a great video bro,
Would like to ask I have Ls430 2001 and got the code error 1578 Brake system.
Could you tell me which first I can perform as a check up since my cruise control and VSC just stop working after this code.
Good job and easy explanation too
Wow,great video well explained.I’m on it thx to you..
Thank you very much sir. This was very helpful
Very well done video
Awesome video Bro!
U are a legend, helped me out so much ❤
Great Video. Thanks bro.
Awesome video bro ! Ty
Ty!!! I need to found out what's wrong with my braking and this vid definitely helped!!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for your through explanation 👍
This was very helpful, thank you.
Thank you very much!
Super helpful!
Great tips bro. Gonna do this to my 72 camaro
Nice video! I currently have 2003 f150 that has leakage between master cylinder and brake booster. Not sure what's going on but brakes not preforming well.
Very informative.
Thank you. I believe my brake booster hose has some sort of o-ring and I’m afraid that of I pull it too hard, I’m going to break the fragile plastic components on the hose (N52, 2007, BMW 530i). I’m chasing a vacuum leak and a smoke test revealed nothing. My plan was to remove the hose and cover it with my thumb to see if my short term fuel trims got better. But you just gave me a better idea! I can just pinch the soft portion of the hose to accomplish the same test. So thanks again!!!
Great thanks good job
Great vid! If you change the hose do yoi keep the check valve or buy new hose with new check valve?
Great video thank alot my issue was the vacuum line.
great video... i have a dodge 2006 pickup... there is a lot of brake fluid on the engine and the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor... could this be a bad booster? thanks.
Great vid thanks.
Very useful
Great video. My booster hoses are all hard plastic. I was wondering if I can simply unplug it from the intake to do this test?
Awesome vid
thank you very much
Thanks man you helped a lot
Glad I could help
great job
Thank you for the video. Question, when my car is idling on I press the break down and when I let go the RPMs jump about 200-300. So far I looked at the vacuum hose don't see a crack or hole
Thank you!
Thank you for all the information! I came across an issue where when my car is on and I press the brake repeatedly it will change the engine speed as if the car wants to shut off and my AF/R gauge will go lean, do you think it could be the booster? Thanks in advance man!
Super great helped me save a lot of time
Great to hear!
Good job sir
Thanks a lot my 92 Corvette brake was making it difficult to stop with your info I can check to see if it's the booster or Check Valve thanks.
When I step my breaks and realease it.i can hear whizzing sound air coming out.that it means need to change my vacuum boaster for ml320 year 2000.appreciate your help.
Hello! Great video! I did the pedal test, and my pedal goes DOWN when I turn off the engine. I let it go and press it again, and it happens again. I did the hose test too, and it has vacuum. Will it be the booster then or something else? Also it makes a "whoop" sound when I let go the pedal.
Thank you so much
Thank you, very informative
Thank you. I used this video to identify where my brake booster hose is located....need to do a smoke vacuum leak test and needed the entry point :)
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video I know have a better diagnosis on my Cadillac ATS power brake booster issue
Excellent video, Thank you.
Can you help me? I have an old f100 which I replaced the master cylinder on. The brakes now hiss when I'm parking. The pedal also gets really hard when the brakes hiss from being pumped. This only happens when I'm trying to park or driving slowly. What's the problem?
Brilliant. Subscribing
Thank you for this clear and easy to follow video. For the first test, my break pedal went DOWN at ignition off, then stayed steady. Other tests were the same as in the video. There is no warning light, but with ignition ON the brake pedal hisses and is too easy to press, and this happened very suddenly. 2018 Outback. Edit: after some additional research, I believe the check valve may be right where the hose attaches to the booster...but I'm not sure, there is also a hard bump in the hose that may be it (I assumed it was the bump for the clamping test) I will try to find instructions to remove and check it.
Hey Marie. Any results to report? Thanks
@AudreyCooks actually I ended up taking it in, and it turned out to just need new brakes (pads and discs). After they were done, the pedal feels normal, and it only hisses when I press it when already fully stopped, not during normal driving. They told me such hissing is normal, and demonstrated on another car (a Legacy). I'm still sure it was not doing this before, or at least no where near as loud, but since I now only really hear it right before I turn ignition on, I guess that's OK. I also confirmed a 2020 Forester did it, which made me feel better. Maybe it's a Subaru thing?
THANK YOU
Great video….u explain very well…I too have a Jeep 2000…I did everything u did…however when I apply brake…it takes a while to stop…it stops but slow….I followed all your steps….any suggestions? Aloha
Very Helpful
Glad it helped!
So my truck had a brake fluid leak ever since I bought and I finally found that it was leaking from my master cylinder into my brake booster, I realized that the brake fluid was disappearing into my intake. I replaced my master cylinder but not my brake booster because it was my master cylinder that was faulty. I'm still burning brake fluid though but my brake system seems good and I'm not losing any new brake fluid. Do you think I should replace my brake booster as well?
Air seeping sound under hood & loss of brake pressure brought me here...
Find a solution?
Check your seal on your master cylinder where it bolts to the break booster. Or it could be the master cylinder it self. Or your booster.
@@MakeLegacys yes it definitely was brake booster & master cylinder
@@ThatBeardedGuy69 yes it definitely was brake booster & master cylinder
Excellent
I feel like if I start looking around the back of the master cylinder that I would be invading the brake fluids home and I didn't want to do that and upset it so is there any other possible way to check that other than getting up in the brakes personal space or home
I have a 07 Tacoma and randomly my brakes will lock up while driving and the only fix I found is to unplug the vacuum off the booster for a few seconds and this usually lasts a while. My factory booster did this and now my rebuilt used Toyota OEM one started doing it after about three years after being installed.
Thanks!
Any ideas why after all the obvious checks, pistons on calipers, rubber boots. Slider pins. Discs pads. Brake lines etc. Why front wheels keep locking after 10 after normal driving conditions. Appreciate any advice.
Great video. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks
I am hearing a hissing sound from that area on my accord. I used soapy water to check for leaks, but did not produce any results. I will try this, thanks for the video.
For that depth test on the brake, could the culprit also be that there is air in the brake system and that’s why the pedal is getting firmer?
This was very informative. 😁 Should I be worried about doing myself?? Play it safe and take it to the shop instead? 😅
I changed my own brakes watching UA-cam videos.