Well you just saved me $449. I had almost zero brakes. Maybe 5% and it was stuttering the engine idle, trying to die on me. It was just some little T barb in the vacuum line had a cap fall off. I put my finger there to plug that open T and the idle improved. So i found a screw and rubber.and made my own plug, and brakes working as should again. Thanks!!! P.s. i just so happened to have a Honda Vtec too (08 CRV), so the similar visuals made it super easy to check lines As a note for others, my brake pedal was extremely solid and wouldnt barely move up or down even with tons of force applied. Having car running, they felt the same as the car off. All that power lost from a tiny hole in the line. Now I'm back in action! Thanks again!!
I'm having this same hardness issue with my brake pedal, except when I press brakes slight the idle goes up, and when I press the pedal really hard the idle drops to normal idle
I don’t know what it is, but your explanations, your descriptions, and your demeanor was very helpful and as simplistic but yet exactly what the doctor ordered!! Thank you good sir!!
So i had a radiator hose leak few days ago and after i fixed the hose, my brakes got extremely hard. I thought to myself "DANG THIS CAR, IT'S ONE THING AFTER ANOTHER". Then i thought to myself, what could i have possibly done by mistake that it made my power brakes go out and it feels like zero power at all in the brakes. To two feet to push it down. Then i watched this video. First thing he said was to check the vacuum hose from the booster to engine. So i did. i followed the hose from the master cylinder straight to the engine and guess where the house ended up? Directly next to the radiator hose i had just replaced. Lol. It turns out during my hose fix for the radiator, i somehow accidentally pulled off that vacuum hose from the engine side. So i slid out into place and it locked into place. And my brakes are back to perfect. THANK YOU. I have a Mercedes Sprinter 2500 van and this probably just saved me almost a thousand dollars in repairs from a shady mechanic who would have told me something major needed fixing and I would have believed them and they would have just plugged the hose in and call it a day. I haven't had an honest mechanic in years. I gave up searching for one
Excellent video and explanation. I will be using your tutorial to diagnose the hiss when my wife pushes the brake in on her cord edge. Thank you for taking the time to being this to us, well done.
Awesome video explanation, just did all the tests everything fine, no leaks based on your test suggestions. Yet, still pressing the brake pedal makes RPM increase. What to test, look for next?
Awesome, video, very detailed. After removing the air intake to do some maintenance I now have a hard brake pedal - I am pretty sure I have a vacuum leak, and this video shows me exactly how to troubleshoot
Very useful, thank you. I brought a bmw 1 series last month and for the first time today I was unable to start it as the brake pedal was rock solid. Tried multiple times but gave up and I rang my dad. Typically, it started for him first attempt with no issue... so he thought it was a me issue until we started reading some forum posts and found out about this issue
A few days ago, I changed the cooling fan in a Kia Soul I bought from my nephew. To do that I had to remove the intake. When I backed it out, I noticed a very hard brake pedal. I could hear a hissing sound. After watching this and a few other vids, its pretty obvious a line is disconnected or perforated. The brakes worked fine before the cooling fan job. And I was about to drive the damn thing to a Kia dealership. Many thanks.
3:25 there is no need to clamp down the hose, all u need to do is disconnect the end going into the intake and put a 14mm bolt on there and that will seal. Most people will eventially kink or cut the line of not done right.
Thanks, I just changed the master brake cylinder and driverside brake line, both front side calipers and brakes in the front (driverside caliper wasn't opening fully dragging), bled the entire dark color brake fluid system out too, but still not 100 % I believe it's the booster, the brake pedal area I hear a air noise...I have the new brake booster in my garage ready, ill do your trouble shooting first, thank you sir!. Details: just got my truck 2nd hand 99 F150 V8 4.6 ABS 230,000 miles
Thank you. I believe my brake booster hose has some sort of o-ring and I’m afraid that of I pull it too hard, I’m going to break the fragile plastic components on the hose (N52, 2007, BMW 530i). I’m chasing a vacuum leak and a smoke test revealed nothing. My plan was to remove the hose and cover it with my thumb to see if my short term fuel trims got better. But you just gave me a better idea! I can just pinch the soft portion of the hose to accomplish the same test. So thanks again!!!
Best explained video I've seen! I do have a question if you have a min to answer? If booster or cylinder go out, will there be signs of fluid leaking? I've followed the steps in your video to check for leaks but I couldn't do the clamping of the hose because there is no valve except for right at the booster!
I am hearing a hissing sound from that area on my accord. I used soapy water to check for leaks, but did not produce any results. I will try this, thanks for the video.
We have a 4th-Gen Acura TL (2009-2014) that developed a brake feel problem. When braking the peddle goes down much further than it ever did. The dealer is telling us it’s the ABS system pump the failed ($1600) but there isn’t any lights on the dash indicating that’s the issue. I’m going to perform the inspections in the video to see what’s going on.
@@dailotom sorry for the late reply, but I’m planning on fixing the issues myself. But to be honest I’m not sure of what to do at this point. The OEM part is at least $1,400 bucks, but the dealer is quoting me $1,600 to replace the module.
@@MrSamPhoenix think it might be a lost of pressure. I replace the master cylinder and bleed any air out of the lines and that fixed it for me. It wasn’t the ABS for me because the ABS light never came up and it engages when I break hard.
Thank you for this clear and easy to follow video. For the first test, my break pedal went DOWN at ignition off, then stayed steady. Other tests were the same as in the video. There is no warning light, but with ignition ON the brake pedal hisses and is too easy to press, and this happened very suddenly. 2018 Outback. Edit: after some additional research, I believe the check valve may be right where the hose attaches to the booster...but I'm not sure, there is also a hard bump in the hose that may be it (I assumed it was the bump for the clamping test) I will try to find instructions to remove and check it.
@AudreyCooks actually I ended up taking it in, and it turned out to just need new brakes (pads and discs). After they were done, the pedal feels normal, and it only hisses when I press it when already fully stopped, not during normal driving. They told me such hissing is normal, and demonstrated on another car (a Legacy). I'm still sure it was not doing this before, or at least no where near as loud, but since I now only really hear it right before I turn ignition on, I guess that's OK. I also confirmed a 2020 Forester did it, which made me feel better. Maybe it's a Subaru thing?
Nice video! I currently have 2003 f150 that has leakage between master cylinder and brake booster. Not sure what's going on but brakes not preforming well.
i have a question please, on cold mornings when i put my 2005 honda accord in gear to either go forward or reverse and apply the brakes ,at first it acts like the brake booster is not working,eg a hard pedal, but only until i hit the brake pedal twice it is unerving because it is like the brakes are frozen, as i stated it only happens on very cold mornings on the first brake pedal pump ?
Thank you! I wish I saw this before I replaced my master cylinder. I thought the rod (going to MC) was a solid rod going right to your pedal. Being as it solely relies on pressure to engage the WHOLE braking system, now it makes a lot more sense to me!
Great video….u explain very well…I too have a Jeep 2000…I did everything u did…however when I apply brake…it takes a while to stop…it stops but slow….I followed all your steps….any suggestions? Aloha
This was very informative. 😁 Should I be worried about doing myself?? Play it safe and take it to the shop instead? 😅 I changed my own brakes watching UA-cam videos.
Thank you for the video. Question, when my car is idling on I press the break down and when I let go the RPMs jump about 200-300. So far I looked at the vacuum hose don't see a crack or hole
Excellent video, Thank you. Can you help me? I have an old f100 which I replaced the master cylinder on. The brakes now hiss when I'm parking. The pedal also gets really hard when the brakes hiss from being pumped. This only happens when I'm trying to park or driving slowly. What's the problem?
Great video you always explain things the easy way. I performed the first test twice and the pedal stood still for the whole 30 seconds, does that means that my booster is ok? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR VIDEOS. .
Must say a great video bro, Would like to ask I have Ls430 2001 and got the code error 1578 Brake system. Could you tell me which first I can perform as a check up since my cruise control and VSC just stop working after this code.
Thank you for video. Much appreciated! I’m not a mechanic but Ima DIYer. Question I replaced my brake master cylinder and my brake power booster because they were bad. My truck is a 93 Mazda B 2600 I had to return a faulty brand, new brake master cylinder, and now I think after watching your video, I may have a faulty new brake booster. I have bleed the system removed all bubbles. I purchased new wheel cylinders for the rear drum brakes. I have no pressure at all. The pedal goes to the floor. I did your test. I removed the vacuum line to the booster and there is obvious suction. Do you think I have a faulty booster?🥴🤷🏽♂️
I have an interesting problem. my brake assist is great and no issues there but when I sit in the car and try to start the car the very first time (cold start) I have to really press hard on my brake for the ignition switch push start to get enabled for the car to start . However, once I get the car started, the brake works completely fine and when I stop and turn the engine off, I can start it again without applying too much pressure on the brake pedal, but if I leave the vehicle and come back after an hour and then try to start the car again, I have to really press hard on the brakes For the ignition switch to get enabled. At first, I thought my break switch was going bad, but it is not. Can you guide me what the problem could be? I did replace my check valve, but that did not change anything. It seems like I am supposed to have vacuum in the booster, but for some reason, the vacuum escapes after like 30-40mins. I’m not sure what else is supposed to keep the vacuum inside the booster beside the check valve. Please help.
I have brakes,my problem is when at the stop light and foot on the brake,idle speed drops about 100-150 RPMs ,I can feel a slight vibration due to rpm drop,BUT,if I apply the parking brake at a stop and take my foot off the brake,RPMs don't drop at all,stay at their normal factory specs of 600 in drive,some defect either in the power brake booster diaphragm or check valve is the problem.I will try the test you suggested and maybe I'll zero in on the defective part.Thanks for the video.
I have a 07 Tacoma and randomly my brakes will lock up while driving and the only fix I found is to unplug the vacuum off the booster for a few seconds and this usually lasts a while. My factory booster did this and now my rebuilt used Toyota OEM one started doing it after about three years after being installed.
Great video Sir, thank you very much...i have a question, if i use that booster vaccum line to hook a smoke leak detector machine.....do I have to bleed the brakes after that...???..
Hello! Great video! I did the pedal test, and my pedal goes DOWN when I turn off the engine. I let it go and press it again, and it happens again. I did the hose test too, and it has vacuum. Will it be the booster then or something else? Also it makes a "whoop" sound when I let go the pedal.
Thank you for all the information! I came across an issue where when my car is on and I press the brake repeatedly it will change the engine speed as if the car wants to shut off and my AF/R gauge will go lean, do you think it could be the booster? Thanks in advance man!
great video... i have a dodge 2006 pickup... there is a lot of brake fluid on the engine and the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor... could this be a bad booster? thanks.
Similar thing happened to me on a Turbo Diesel Mercedes Benz W123. The vacuum pump has a hard line that comes up to the brake booster and has mutiple Ts that come off to the transmission, door locks (vacuum door locks) etc. needless to say it was 105 outside and the hoses to thw door locks and brake booster got malleable and pipped off the hardline nipple causing a vacuum leak I couldnt even shut the car off and I had no brakes. Simple fix and back on the road.
Any ideas why after all the obvious checks, pistons on calipers, rubber boots. Slider pins. Discs pads. Brake lines etc. Why front wheels keep locking after 10 after normal driving conditions. Appreciate any advice.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek owner here. I have a violent shake/near stalling at stop lights when the brake is fully depressed. Could this be an issue with the brake booster? Lots of signs are pointing me here.
Hi. I’m having many different opinions about the stif brake pedal. 1-brake pedal travel sensor, 2-a sensor on brake pedal assembly that needs calibration after replacement. Got a C1012-01 code. 09 Ford Escape Hybrid. Hit from back and slightly from front. Parking sensors from back bumper are damaged. Any suggestions?
I just replaced my master cylinder on my 73 chevy c20. I found the rubber gasket or cup that was on the booster was torn probably from me when removing. I can't find the rubber cup or gasket anywhere so I may replace the booster to get a new one. its 49 years old anyhow. I'm pretty sure I'm losing vacuum. ill perform the pedal test next time I have the truck. losing vacuum can change your idle too right?
Well you just saved me $449. I had almost zero brakes. Maybe 5% and it was stuttering the engine idle, trying to die on me. It was just some little T barb in the vacuum line had a cap fall off. I put my finger there to plug that open T and the idle improved. So i found a screw and rubber.and made my own plug, and brakes working as should again. Thanks!!!
P.s. i just so happened to have a Honda Vtec too (08 CRV), so the similar visuals made it super easy to check lines
As a note for others, my brake pedal was extremely solid and wouldnt barely move up or down even with tons of force applied. Having car running, they felt the same as the car off. All that power lost from a tiny hole in the line. Now I'm back in action! Thanks again!!
I'm having this same hardness issue with my brake pedal, except when I press brakes slight the idle goes up, and when I press the pedal really hard the idle drops to normal idle
I took out two bolts but still won't release the brake booster what else do I have to do 2006 Chevy Cobalt
That was about the clearest video and verbal explanation I have ever seen . Thankyou
I don’t know what it is, but your explanations, your descriptions, and your demeanor was very helpful and as simplistic but yet exactly what the doctor ordered!! Thank you good sir!!
Thankyou man. Great easy steps for diagnosing boosters. Watching all the way from Papua new guinea
So i had a radiator hose leak few days ago and after i fixed the hose, my brakes got extremely hard. I thought to myself "DANG THIS CAR, IT'S ONE THING AFTER ANOTHER".
Then i thought to myself, what could i have possibly done by mistake that it made my power brakes go out and it feels like zero power at all in the brakes. To two feet to push it down.
Then i watched this video. First thing he said was to check the vacuum hose from the booster to engine. So i did. i followed the hose from the master cylinder straight to the engine and guess where the house ended up? Directly next to the radiator hose i had just replaced. Lol.
It turns out during my hose fix for the radiator, i somehow accidentally pulled off that vacuum hose from the engine side. So i slid out into place and it locked into place. And my brakes are back to perfect.
THANK YOU. I have a Mercedes Sprinter 2500 van and this probably just saved me almost a thousand dollars in repairs from a shady mechanic who would have told me something major needed fixing and I would have believed them and they would have just plugged the hose in and call it a day. I haven't had an honest mechanic in years. I gave up searching for one
Excellent video and explanation. I will be using your tutorial to diagnose the hiss when my wife pushes the brake in on her cord edge. Thank you for taking the time to being this to us, well done.
This isn't even for my vehicle but I'm leaving feeling more prepared to tackle mine. Thank you sir
Thanks!
Awesome video explanation, just did all the tests everything fine, no leaks based on your test suggestions. Yet, still pressing the brake pedal makes RPM increase. What to test, look for next?
Your method is clear, provides great; specific things to watch out for and the pace is about right for beginners and experts (in my opinion). Thanks!
Awesome, video, very detailed. After removing the air intake to do some maintenance I now have a hard brake pedal - I am pretty sure I have a vacuum leak, and this video shows me exactly how to troubleshoot
Glad it helped!
Rubber hose on the vice grips is a very very nice touch, great idea and I’m totally doing that
Great job, thanks for your thorough explanation and multiple tests.
Very useful, thank you. I brought a bmw 1 series last month and for the first time today I was unable to start it as the brake pedal was rock solid. Tried multiple times but gave up and I rang my dad. Typically, it started for him first attempt with no issue... so he thought it was a me issue until we started reading some forum posts and found out about this issue
my mans even completing the video during a rainstorm
Real MVP
He finally took a bath! (Just kidding!) 😂 Mechanic humor can be vicious.
Thats ur man? Dammm bro, congrats!!🎉🎉 🌈🌈🌈
He must be a Company Man
From h6 @@happyjoyousandfree6721
A few days ago, I changed the cooling fan in a Kia Soul I bought from my nephew. To do that I had to remove the intake. When I backed it out, I noticed a very hard brake pedal. I could hear a hissing sound. After watching this and a few other vids, its pretty obvious a line is disconnected or perforated. The brakes worked fine before the cooling fan job. And I was about to drive the damn thing to a Kia dealership. Many thanks.
same issue on my VW CC - need to find the leak!
3:25 there is no need to clamp down the hose, all u need to do is disconnect the end going into the intake and put a 14mm bolt on there and that will seal. Most people will eventially kink or cut the line of not done right.
Thank you. I used this video to identify where my brake booster hose is located....need to do a smoke vacuum leak test and needed the entry point :)
Glad it helped!
Great vid! Thank you. How do know if your check valve is bad?
this BIG help, to see if brake booster bad, appreciate SO MUCH ty
also the shady mechanic said master cylinder when hard brake, he just after money ty for saving me money
Ty!!! I need to found out what's wrong with my braking and this vid definitely helped!!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks, I just changed the master brake cylinder and driverside brake line, both front side calipers and brakes in the front (driverside caliper wasn't opening fully dragging), bled the entire dark color brake fluid system out too, but still not 100 % I believe it's the booster, the brake pedal area I hear a air noise...I have the new brake booster in my garage ready, ill do your trouble shooting first, thank you sir!. Details: just got my truck 2nd hand 99 F150 V8 4.6 ABS 230,000 miles
One of the best videos in my opinion.
God bless you!
Thank you. I believe my brake booster hose has some sort of o-ring and I’m afraid that of I pull it too hard, I’m going to break the fragile plastic components on the hose (N52, 2007, BMW 530i). I’m chasing a vacuum leak and a smoke test revealed nothing. My plan was to remove the hose and cover it with my thumb to see if my short term fuel trims got better. But you just gave me a better idea! I can just pinch the soft portion of the hose to accomplish the same test. So thanks again!!!
Air seeping sound under hood & loss of brake pressure brought me here...
Find a solution?
Check your seal on your master cylinder where it bolts to the break booster. Or it could be the master cylinder it self. Or your booster.
@@MakeLegacys yes it definitely was brake booster & master cylinder
@@ThatBeardedGuy69 yes it definitely was brake booster & master cylinder
For me it's air seeping sound coming from near the brake pedal, I dont even know wtf that means 🤦
Best explained video I've seen! I do have a question if you have a min to answer? If booster or cylinder go out, will there be signs of fluid leaking? I've followed the steps in your video to check for leaks but I couldn't do the clamping of the hose because there is no valve except for right at the booster!
This is the best video ive ever seen!! Great explanation 👌
I am hearing a hissing sound from that area on my accord. I used soapy water to check for leaks, but did not produce any results. I will try this, thanks for the video.
Thank you for such a thorough video!! Thank you for also linking to the master cylinder video, that is infinitely helpful. Very informative.
Thanks a lot my 92 Corvette brake was making it difficult to stop with your info I can check to see if it's the booster or Check Valve thanks.
We have a 4th-Gen Acura TL (2009-2014) that developed a brake feel problem. When braking the peddle goes down much further than it ever did. The dealer is telling us it’s the ABS system pump the failed ($1600) but there isn’t any lights on the dash indicating that’s the issue. I’m going to perform the inspections in the video to see what’s going on.
Did you ever get your issue fixed? I am experiencing the same now
What did find out? I have a 2010 acura tl. The "check braking system lights" flash at me.
@@dailotom sorry for the late reply, but I’m planning on fixing the issues myself. But to be honest I’m not sure of what to do at this point. The OEM part is at least $1,400 bucks, but the dealer is quoting me $1,600 to replace the module.
@@MrSamPhoenix think it might be a lost of pressure. I replace the master cylinder and bleed any air out of the lines and that fixed it for me. It wasn’t the ABS for me because the ABS light never came up and it engages when I break hard.
Great job. A very smart and intelligent man.
Thank you very much, this information provided as thorough and detail. 👍🏾🇹🇹💯🤓
Thank you for this clear and easy to follow video. For the first test, my break pedal went DOWN at ignition off, then stayed steady. Other tests were the same as in the video. There is no warning light, but with ignition ON the brake pedal hisses and is too easy to press, and this happened very suddenly. 2018 Outback. Edit: after some additional research, I believe the check valve may be right where the hose attaches to the booster...but I'm not sure, there is also a hard bump in the hose that may be it (I assumed it was the bump for the clamping test) I will try to find instructions to remove and check it.
Hey Marie. Any results to report? Thanks
@AudreyCooks actually I ended up taking it in, and it turned out to just need new brakes (pads and discs). After they were done, the pedal feels normal, and it only hisses when I press it when already fully stopped, not during normal driving. They told me such hissing is normal, and demonstrated on another car (a Legacy). I'm still sure it was not doing this before, or at least no where near as loud, but since I now only really hear it right before I turn ignition on, I guess that's OK. I also confirmed a 2020 Forester did it, which made me feel better. Maybe it's a Subaru thing?
Nice video! I currently have 2003 f150 that has leakage between master cylinder and brake booster. Not sure what's going on but brakes not preforming well.
i have a question please, on cold mornings when i put my 2005 honda accord in gear to either go forward or reverse and apply the brakes ,at first it acts like the brake booster is not working,eg a hard pedal, but only until i hit the brake pedal twice it is unerving because it is like the brakes are frozen, as i stated it only happens on very cold mornings on the first brake pedal pump ?
Great video. My booster hoses are all hard plastic. I was wondering if I can simply unplug it from the intake to do this test?
Thank you for this video I know have a better diagnosis on my Cadillac ATS power brake booster issue
Thank you! I wish I saw this before I replaced my master cylinder. I thought the rod (going to MC) was a solid rod going right to your pedal. Being as it solely relies on pressure to engage the WHOLE braking system, now it makes a lot more sense to me!
Great vid! If you change the hose do yoi keep the check valve or buy new hose with new check valve?
Great video….u explain very well…I too have a Jeep 2000…I did everything u did…however when I apply brake…it takes a while to stop…it stops but slow….I followed all your steps….any suggestions? Aloha
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Very useful.
Excellent instructions, you are a good teacher
Great tips bro. Gonna do this to my 72 camaro
Very well explained. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Happy to help.
This was very informative. 😁 Should I be worried about doing myself?? Play it safe and take it to the shop instead? 😅
I changed my own brakes watching UA-cam videos.
Great video thank alot my issue was the vacuum line.
Thank you for the video. Question, when my car is idling on I press the break down and when I let go the RPMs jump about 200-300. So far I looked at the vacuum hose don't see a crack or hole
This helped me today. Great video.
This video was so helpful! Thank you for your time. God bless you sir.
Is the booster vacuum line going to the intake a good spot to spray intake valve cleaner?
Yes... I always do that before I condemn a Master Cylinder hard pedal. Hard to stop... As the booster controls the pedal pressure required....
Exactly what I needed. Thank youuuuuuuu
Excellent video, Thank you.
Can you help me? I have an old f100 which I replaced the master cylinder on. The brakes now hiss when I'm parking. The pedal also gets really hard when the brakes hiss from being pumped. This only happens when I'm trying to park or driving slowly. What's the problem?
If I see the booster move the master cylinder when the brakes are pumped does that mean the booster is bad?
Great video you always explain things the easy way. I performed the first test twice and the pedal stood still for the whole 30 seconds, does that means that my booster is ok? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR VIDEOS. .
Yes. If there's no change in pedal height you're okay. Thank you for the feedback!
@@CarsNToys hello my grand cherokee stalling when i push the brake at the stop .its the booster brake its die???
@@renegade9758 you probably have a vacuum leak and air is entering the intake manifold
Must say a great video bro,
Would like to ask I have Ls430 2001 and got the code error 1578 Brake system.
Could you tell me which first I can perform as a check up since my cruise control and VSC just stop working after this code.
Thank you very much sir. This was very helpful
Thank you for video. Much appreciated! I’m not a mechanic but Ima DIYer. Question I replaced my brake master cylinder and my brake power booster because they were bad. My truck is a 93 Mazda B 2600 I had to return a faulty brand, new brake master cylinder, and now I think after watching your video, I may have a faulty new brake booster. I have bleed the system removed all bubbles. I purchased new wheel cylinders for the rear drum brakes. I have no pressure at all. The pedal goes to the floor. I did your test. I removed the vacuum line to the booster and there is obvious suction. Do you think I have a faulty booster?🥴🤷🏽♂️
thanks for the helpful video, job done!
I have an interesting problem. my brake assist is great and no issues there but when I sit in the car and try to start the car the very first time (cold start) I have to really press hard on my brake for the ignition switch push start to get enabled for the car to start . However, once I get the car started, the brake works completely fine and when I stop and turn the engine off, I can start it again without applying too much pressure on the brake pedal, but if I leave the vehicle and come back after an hour and then try to start the car again, I have to really press hard on the brakes For the ignition switch to get enabled. At first, I thought my break switch was going bad, but it is not. Can you guide me what the problem could be? I did replace my check valve, but that did not change anything. It seems like I am supposed to have vacuum in the booster, but for some reason, the vacuum escapes after like 30-40mins. I’m not sure what else is supposed to keep the vacuum inside the booster beside the check valve. Please help.
U are a legend, helped me out so much ❤
Good job and easy explanation too
I have brakes,my problem is when at the stop light and foot on the brake,idle speed drops about 100-150 RPMs ,I can feel a slight vibration due to rpm drop,BUT,if I apply the parking brake at a stop and take my foot off the brake,RPMs don't drop at all,stay at their normal factory specs of 600 in drive,some defect either in the power brake booster diaphragm or check valve is the problem.I will try the test you suggested and maybe I'll zero in on the defective part.Thanks for the video.
Wow,great video well explained.I’m on it thx to you..
I have a 07 Tacoma and randomly my brakes will lock up while driving and the only fix I found is to unplug the vacuum off the booster for a few seconds and this usually lasts a while. My factory booster did this and now my rebuilt used Toyota OEM one started doing it after about three years after being installed.
Thanks very insightful video! Appreciate your dedication as well.
Great video thanks for posting
Very well done video
Great video Sir, thank you very much...i have a question, if i use that booster vaccum line to hook a smoke leak detector machine.....do I have to bleed the brakes after that...???..
No
Great video explained very well.
Hello! Great video! I did the pedal test, and my pedal goes DOWN when I turn off the engine. I let it go and press it again, and it happens again. I did the hose test too, and it has vacuum. Will it be the booster then or something else? Also it makes a "whoop" sound when I let go the pedal.
Great video! Thanks for the help!
For that depth test on the brake, could the culprit also be that there is air in the brake system and that’s why the pedal is getting firmer?
Thank you for all the information! I came across an issue where when my car is on and I press the brake repeatedly it will change the engine speed as if the car wants to shut off and my AF/R gauge will go lean, do you think it could be the booster? Thanks in advance man!
great video... i have a dodge 2006 pickup... there is a lot of brake fluid on the engine and the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor... could this be a bad booster? thanks.
Awesome video Bro!
Similar thing happened to me on a Turbo Diesel Mercedes Benz W123. The vacuum pump has a hard line that comes up to the brake booster and has mutiple Ts that come off to the transmission, door locks (vacuum door locks) etc. needless to say it was 105 outside and the hoses to thw door locks and brake booster got malleable and pipped off the hardline nipple causing a vacuum leak I couldnt even shut the car off and I had no brakes. Simple fix and back on the road.
Any ideas why after all the obvious checks, pistons on calipers, rubber boots. Slider pins. Discs pads. Brake lines etc. Why front wheels keep locking after 10 after normal driving conditions. Appreciate any advice.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks man you helped a lot
Glad I could help
Super great helped me save a lot of time
Great to hear!
I must have missed something, did the hose was the problem? Or the check valve? Thanks
2018 Subaru Crosstrek owner here. I have a violent shake/near stalling at stop lights when the brake is fully depressed. Could this be an issue with the brake booster? Lots of signs are pointing me here.
Do all booster vacuum lines Spose to have a check valve?
Great thanks good job
My master brake cylinder I just replaced was loose !
I tightened it up and it erased my P0171 on a Tacoma 01
When you said “check the master brake cylinder on an old car I was like shit I left it on there loose probably
Hi. I’m having many different opinions about the stif brake pedal. 1-brake pedal travel sensor, 2-a sensor on brake pedal assembly that needs calibration after replacement. Got a C1012-01 code. 09 Ford Escape Hybrid. Hit from back and slightly from front. Parking sensors from back bumper are damaged. Any suggestions?
Outstanding video! Thank you
I have a whistling sound when i let off my brake pedal. What do you recommended?
thank you sir! now i found my problem
Great!
Great Video. Thanks bro.
Thank you for your through explanation 👍
Nice video sir! Thank you 🤙🏾
I just replaced my master cylinder on my 73 chevy c20. I found the rubber gasket or cup that was on the booster was torn probably from me when removing. I can't find the rubber cup or gasket anywhere so I may replace the booster to get a new one. its 49 years old anyhow. I'm pretty sure I'm losing vacuum. ill perform the pedal test next time I have the truck. losing vacuum can change your idle too right?
Thank you!
When I did the start, brake, turn off test, it went down further instead of moving up when I turned the vehicle off?
same for me.. did you find out anything on that?
Very clear and understandable ! Thanks .
Hello, does Nissan Sentra 2002 have a check valve between brake booster and intake manifold? Please reply. Thank you.
Thank broski! I needed this
I have a leak between the plastic cylinder and booster and it looks like it is loose. You mentioned to tighten it. How do I do this? Thanks.