*NEW* Ford 6R-80 Transmission Fluid Change (UPDATED): ua-cam.com/video/evSRxUxLsSA/v-deo.html Say goodbye to RTV! ua-cam.com/video/chGt_77qEqg/v-deo.html Rear Differential Fluid Change! ua-cam.com/video/DdLGHEPRj68/v-deo.html Full Master Cylinder Replacement Video! ua-cam.com/video/Z7_BIREQ9vk/v-deo.html RABS Module - What is it and how to replace it! ua-cam.com/video/FzHN69SUDCw/v-deo.html
I’d rather here your precise explanation in the background instead of a bunch of music…Great video, I have to upgrade my master cylinder as I was not getting any pressure from my brake pedal & that is a scary situation
I really enjoyed and appreciated your video. I wish all videos could be like this one here. All necessary information. No bullcrap unnecessary nonsense! I tip my hat to you my friend! Really great video!
Video is perfect exactly what I needed to know and you didn't give me your whole life story that's kind of help I needed I don't need to hear describe it from beginning to end
In the 70s & 80s we just bleed the master cylinder while it was attached to the brake booster on the car. Yes that take's two people, but its a lot easier to push the brake pedal than it is to push that cylinder piston in with some screw driver or long punch.
I mean, it's not really difficult to push it in once you get going. But I understand what you are saying. That's definitely an option if someone else is available to help.
As a pretty new diy car guy i personally find no music so much more helpful cause i can get a good idea of what is a good thing to hear and what isnt a good thing to hear. Pretty much have to use all senses but taste because uh duhh??lol and music gets rid of id say a pretty important one
Obviously a new diy car guy. Few years ago the You tubes taught me that taste is just as important. Wet puddle under car. If it has taste it’s an issue. No taste it’s just your a/c drain .(which in Australia is a regular thing).. a little bit of coolant or oil never killed nobody
Just learned a new tip you didn't show. Remove the covers for the connections and put brake fluid letting gravity do it's thing until it leaks. About 3 minutes for me. Then connect the tube's and so forth. Saves from A LOT of pumping! 👍🏽
FYI when you bleed the master cylinder correctly like you did you will then only need to bleed the brake lines at the master cylinder not at the wheel. PS I've been installing master cylinder since 1974.
@@Gprime21 your question made it sound like you wanted to bleed it at the calipers just because you didn't feel like doing it this way. so here's the answer to your question you have to bleed it at the High Point. the master cylinder is the high point. maybe you should go back and re-watch the video and pay attention this time. your question was answered in the very first sentence
Sorry, I got wrapped up in all the other repairs. coils wires blow spark plug tap insert..... Anyway, it went so smooth o ly took about 30 min took more time to get my master cylinder properly supported and levelish. Your video made it so freak8ng easy I was amazed!!!! THANKS FOR YOUR TUTORIALS!!!!
Nicely Done. But a word of advice. The blue and red fittings represent metric and sae threads. There are 2 of each fitting in the kit. So you should be using both red or both blue. Get a thread pitch tool to measure the thread pitch on the nuts that come fro the master cylinder. Thats the easiest way to determine if metric of sae. Then take calipers to find the diameter of the nut. Use the diameter and thread pitch to pick the right one from the kit!
Instead of using a work bench, just propped up on it's side a free wood pallet held up by bricks at the base. Was nice and sturdy in a pinch, and one clamp to hold the brake master cylinder
I would add that if you can hold the piston in and allow bubbles to naturally rise and then slowly release the piston so the bubbles don’t get sucked all the way back into the reservoir, you can more quickly purge them. Good video! Maybe speed up the section where you are just pumping* away? The viewer can always slow it down in the app if they want to see everything. That’s all I have. 👍 *Edited:spelling
Excellent video man. I had two questions though: 1. When bleeding your brake lines, should you have the vehicle running, turned all the way off, or the key turned so as to have the electronics on but the engine still off? 2. When bleeding the brakes, what should be done with the cap for the reservoir? Leave it off, have it on tight, or just let it sit on top of the opening but not tightened? Thank you
Thanks man I appreciate it! Concerning your questions: 1. That's actually a great question. So, I probably should have covered that in my install video, but you do not need to have the key in the ignition at all. However, you will need to keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level the next time you change your brake pads. What I mean by that is if you are low on pads, and you fill the fluid all the way to the top of the Master Cylinder, the next time you change your brakes, the fluid will rise due to the calipers traveling less with the new pads. If you have new pads, than you can fill it right up to the full line without issue. 2. I like to unscrew the cap but leave it on the reservoir. If you take it completely off, you run the risk of debris getting into the fluid. So, unscrew the cap to easily allow the fluid to flow through the brake lines, but leave it on the reservoir to prevent debris from potentially clogging your master cylinder. I hope this helps brother! 🤟
Hey quick question. Instead of clamping to a vice couldn't i just Bolt it back onto the brake booster and just press on the brake pedal? Of course with the engine off and the bleeder kit with the clear hoses hook up to the master cylinder and looped back into the resivior just like you have it in the video. I just don't have a vice or anyway to hold it down outside the vehicle. Thanks for your video it was very informative.
Hey man, absolutely you can do it. I prefer to have it in a clamp of some sorts so I can see the air escape and will know immediately when the master cylinder is bled. If you have a second person, I would have them pump the brakes as you watch and make sure the air is escaping. Whatever you choose to do, let me know how it goes!
Lol, thanks for the feedback! It seems like everyone is opposed to music in these types of videos, so we will be leaving them out. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Great video with an awesome explanation of the process. One question. What is the benefit to doing this on a bench vs. on the car? Or is it more just a preference?
I prefer to bench bleed because I can see when the air completely escapes. If you have a second person, you can do it on the vehicle. Otherwise, I feel like this is a better method.
You may have better luck if you crack the bleeder lines once you fill the tank, that will let fluid flow into the cylinder and ensure you aren't dry pumping the cylinder the first few times. Source of the comment comes from the instructions on a cylinder I just replaced. I think you can get the same results if you don't tighten the connectors until fluid starts to leak out a little, or pull the hose for a short period to allow the free flow of fluid to start and fill the cylinder. I also had luck pausing with the cylinder held in and holding the lines vertical to let the air work its way up before releasing the cylinder and drawing the air back in.
@@TrickShiftGarage scratch that, one of my brake lines out of the cylinder was leaking and spraying the base of the cylinder where it connects the the booster so I thought it was leaking, it’s not it’s a line that I had to flare myself apparently 1 out of 4 flares was bad. So I’ll have to do it again. Thanks for the video. By the way, I bench bled the cylinder before I watched your video. But thanks anyway.
Was a good video; definitely don't like (distracting) music, while watching a video like this. Learned about bleeder kit, and how to use it; very good video.
At the end where you're reinstalling the MC, when you disco the fitting, brake fluid will escape and air goes in right? How do you get that air out? Through normal bleeding procedure?
Yes, that's correct. Air will still have trouble entering the MC because fluid is pushing (albeit very slowly) out. But once you bleed each caliper (and drums if you have them), it will remove all air.
@@TrickShiftGarage I think removing the tubes from the reservoir and putting the reservoir cap back on will create a vacuum. This will help slow down the flow of brake fluid out of those ports.
@@TrickShiftGarage I think removing the tubes from the reservoir and putting the reservoir cap back on will create a vacuum. This will help slow down the flow of brake fluid out of those ports.
Yes, you want to remove as much brake fluid as possible and then put it in a container. You can use a turkey baster to siphon out the old fluid. The brake lines are fine. You don't need to remove the fluid since you will have to bleed the brakes afterwards anyway. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Can this be done without removing the master cylinder and simply unplugging the two lines, place the two fittings, run the hose and use the brake pedal instead of the screwdriver?
I guess theoretically it could, but it will take a lot longer because the brake booster rod will not push the piston in as far as the punch/screwdriver. Since you have to remove the brake lines, you might as well just remove the 2 nuts and take it off. But that's just my opinion.
Do you have a video on how to bleed the brakes as you stated that must be done after bench bleeding and installing the master cylinder? As a female that's new to doing my own vehicle repairs, it would help me to have a video on how to bleed the brakes on each tire.😊💅🏼
Would this fix the air "hissing" I now occasionally hear after I replaced my rear calipers? I bled the rear brake lines using a helper, but now I hear this hissing noise and I can't determine if it's my master cylinder that needs a bench bleed, or if some other hose has air in it, or if it's a faulty brake booster
Many thanks. Quick question, my master cylinder has 3 lines vs yours with 2. Same procedure as you show ie 3 lines into the reservoir or just 2? It is a 1980’s Merc master cylinder. Thanks for your help.
I'm going to search around about this to make sure I don't give you incorrect information. I would guess it would be the same, but that's all that is. Just a guess. I'll see what I can find.
I’m having a hard time bench bleeding it. I was doing on a box without a vise. The piston is really hard to push without grabbing the base and only the sides of the MC so the air keeps returning back in the base. I’m planning on bench bleeding but on the car with the bleeder kit hoses still attached. What do you think? The MC is tilted slightly up while attached to the car. Is it still possible to completely bleed it out of air like that?
Hello Keviiiboo, I've never done it while it was attached to the brake booster before, but I would imagine it would work. It will take a long longer though. When bench bleeding, you are able to push the piston all the way in forcing a ton of air out. When you push in the brake pedal, you will only be pushing the piston in halfway, or 3/4's of the way. So I do think it's possible, but at the same time I have never done it that way so I'm not 100% sure.
@@TrickShiftGarage SUCCESS! I forgot to come back for the update. I tried bleeding it in the car, but the fluid barely moved, so I ended up bench bleeding it outside of the car. I used a long extension and I had help from somebody. It was really hard pressing the piston, but I did manage to get a lot of air out. Next day I bled all wheels and drove it for an hour and the car stop perfectly fine 👍
I got new MC for my car but I just installed w out bleeding it but when I went to bleed the rear breaks nothing would come out only the front 2 , could bleeding the MC be why I get no fluid to the rear?
Why cant this be done with the cylinder bolted in place ? Install the rubber lines and then pump the pedal untill the lines show no bubbles. Some are even visible through the gap under the open hood.
@@TrickShiftGarage Pump long enough to make a fair assumption of air removal. Then check the tubes for bubbles, if you dont see any then you are done. If you are suspect, then just keep pumping for another check.. Easy one person job.
You can do that, but you will be assuming the air has escaped. Do whatever you feel like doing. I'm not encouraging or discouraging anyone from doing anything to their vehicle.
Great vid. I was wondering if there is air in the master cylinder does that also mean there will be air in the brake lines and vice versa? Or are the two seperate?
@@TrickShiftGarage does it also work the other way around? I’m just wondering what happens if you bench bleed the cylinder then drive the car without bleeding the calipers and they contain air.
Very bad brake fluid can (it happened to me) inhibit stopping as quickly or not at all. Test brake fluid once a year with test strips and water tester. Ruel of thumb every two years or every 24000 miles replace all brake fluid by flushing with fresh brake fluid. If fluid test good brobley not necessary to change fluid that often. Tap on a clip to paste it in the text box.
You have got to bench bleed a lot of people skip that, and they have nothing but problems a lot of air trapped in the system, and they spend days trying to bleed the air all the way to the back calipers
Hello Kevin! I kept the clear tubes in the same position and then unscrewed the fittings when I was ready to install the brake lines. Thanks for watching! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage Did you remove the fluid from the reservour or did you just have to transfer the cables really fast to avoid spilling too much brake fluid?
@@Dnasty1guess we will never know the answer. Trouble is my clutch is connected to the master cylinder on Peugeot van so I have to drain some of it or plug it somehow.
@@Dnasty1wondering the same thing. Looks like that part was edited out but I'm assuming there is some brake fluid that will leak out when switching from the bleeder hose to the brake lines?
So is there a part 2? My problem is when I'm putting the brake master back in and unhook the hoses ... Fluid starts pouring out fast. And I think a lot of fluid is gone by the time I'm able to put on the brake lines and tighten them
I am currently working on a big brake bleeding video, but as far as connecting the brake lines to the master cylinder this is it. Make sure you only do one line at a time and be ready to connect the line once you remove the fitting. I lost very minimal fluid doing it this way.
@@TrickShiftGarage Well I lose a ton of fluid doing it that way. And no pressure on the break afterwards at all. I seen another video where a guy did on bleeding the brake Master. If you search" brake master cylinder sprinter". Basically the kit fits over the cap for the brake master and you just pump it up and you don't have to do anything it sucks up all the air apparently. There's no disconnecting of brake lines and putting a bleed kit on there and then disconnecting the brake lines and the fluid leaking out while you're trying to put the original brake lines back on. Seems like that way would be a hundred times better to just put something on the cap and suck out all the bubbles from top. It comes with a couple different caps to make sure it fits and then a pretty big plastic jug with a hand pump on it and pressure gauge so you can read that also
After mounting the master cylinder and before removing the fittings and hoses get a piece of wood to go between the brake pedal and front part of the driver's lower seat cushion. Cut the wood to a length so that when you move the seat forward some it will push the brake pedal down. You just want to move the brake pedal down enough to close off the compensation port of the master cylinder, which will prevent the fluid from leaking out of the reservoir. It doesn't take much pedal movement for the master cylinder pistons to move past and close off the ports, as a guide use the brake lights, when they come on that's usually far enough. There will be a little fluid loss when removing the fittings and hoses but it should stop quickly and you won't drain the fluid out of the reservoir with the ports blocked off. You'll then need to bleed the system at each of the wheel bleeders. You can get some air out of the master cylinder lines after connecting them; with a partner's help to press on the brake pedal or moving the seat forward with the wood on the pedal you can then crack open the master cylinder line fittings to let air out. This will get some air out but a full bleed will still be needed.
Need a special particular kind of music for this situation between the does squeaking sound that favors maybe a bed and then let's not forget the in and out of the piston need some AKA old school John Holmes music playing LOL😂😂
Ford Fusion 2010 2.5L manual transmission. My reservoir has an extra hole. Also, the largest fitting I got from the kit, didn't properly seal, so some of my brake fluid leaked out while I was "bench" bleeding. But yeah... I had a difficult time doing this and got pretty frustrated when everything just drained out when I removed one fitting. Didn't give me any time to put the brake line on. Any insights will help, and thanks for replying.@@TrickShiftGarage
Hey Jeff, I'm still searching for information on this. I'm not 100% sure why it's pouring out like that. Was this a brand new master cylinder, or a rebuilt/used unit? Also, I believe you have an extra hole in it because you have a manual transmission. A lot of vehicles use that instead of having a separate reservoir for clutch fluid.
I also tried looking for information on this but could not find anything. It's a rebuilt one. I checked all the seals and everything looked fine. When I was bench bleeding, the only place it leaked out was where the fittings were located. Ah, that makes sense, thank you for that piece of information. Thanks again for trying though. Your time is well appreciated.@@TrickShiftGarage
unobtrusive music in the background does make the experience more pleasant. But if the music is drowning the content, it defeats the purpose. Thanks for this tutorial, clear, step by step guide even an idiot like me can follow!😉
great video on bench bleeding.. great commentary, yeah on music in an instructional video, there is no place for it. I'm watching and listening to what is going on in a video, to hear for example how the piston is sounding. I'd just assume hear the ambient noise of your shop if you are not talking. But, I prefer to talking and zero music. Instructional videos are not the place for music.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback! It seems like everyone agrees with you because I haven't seen anyone mention they like music in these types of videos. So we will leave it out from now on. 🤟
This is the best way to bleed a master cylinder. You have to make sure all air is removed from it. If you try this on the vehicle, you need a second person to watch the air escape, and you also have to be very careful while pushing the piston in. You want to move as slow as possible to ensure you are getting the air out. Bench bleeding is the best way imo.
It's an option. But it will take longer and you will have to keep getting in and out of the car to make sure the air is bled out (unless you have a second person that can watch).
It's a joke trying to bleed my master cylinder on my Peugeot partner van . You can't put the pipes in the reservoir as there's nowhere for it to touch fluid and also the clutch is fed from the tank so you can't bench bleed it because it will all leak out . I've been trying for ages . Anyone got any ideas?
Hello Ajwa! Have you seen this? www.justanswer.com/peugeot/4hena-peugeot-partner-hello-peugeot-partner-2-0l-van-just.html This may be able to answer your question. Seems like you can't bleed it off of the car. You may need to grab a second person and bleed it while it's on your Peugeot.
You will not have an issue pushing the piston all the way in as long as you aren't moving too fast. Pay attention to how I did it in this video and you will be fine.
*NEW* Ford 6R-80 Transmission Fluid Change (UPDATED):
ua-cam.com/video/evSRxUxLsSA/v-deo.html
Say goodbye to RTV!
ua-cam.com/video/chGt_77qEqg/v-deo.html
Rear Differential Fluid Change!
ua-cam.com/video/DdLGHEPRj68/v-deo.html
Full Master Cylinder Replacement Video!
ua-cam.com/video/Z7_BIREQ9vk/v-deo.html
RABS Module - What is it and how to replace it!
ua-cam.com/video/FzHN69SUDCw/v-deo.html
So grateful for absence of background music. Good to be able to HEAR the process.
It seems like most people agree with you!
I’d rather here your precise explanation in the background instead of a bunch of music…Great video, I have to upgrade my master cylinder as I was not getting any pressure from my brake pedal & that is a scary situation
Sounds good, thanks for the feedback! And let me know how it goes bro! 🤟
Yes, no music, please. Old ears have a hard time when there's too much background noise/music, thanks. Loved this video.
Noted! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. We are glad you enjoyed it! 🤟
The best video I've seen on bench bleeding the master cylinder. You have my subscription!
Wow thank you so much! We really appreciate the support!
I really enjoyed and appreciated your video. I wish all videos could be like this one here. All necessary information. No bullcrap unnecessary nonsense! I tip my hat to you my friend! Really great video!
Thank you for the kind words! We appreciate the support! 🤟
Video is perfect exactly what I needed to know and you didn't give me your whole life story that's kind of help I needed I don't need to hear describe it from beginning to end
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 🤟
Great tutorial and plus no annoying sound back grounds.
Excellent! Clear and concise...and, no music please.
Sounds good! Thanks for watching!
In the 70s & 80s we just bleed the master cylinder while it was attached to the brake booster on the car. Yes that take's two people, but its a lot easier to push the brake pedal than it is to push that cylinder piston in with some screw driver or long punch.
I mean, it's not really difficult to push it in once you get going. But I understand what you are saying. That's definitely an option if someone else is available to help.
Thank you. You saved me as hefty repair bill.
No problem! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
What a great video!
Clear instruction
Well edited
Thank you
Thanks Javier! We appreciate you taking the time to comment! Thanks for watching! 🤟
As a pretty new diy car guy i personally find no music so much more helpful cause i can get a good idea of what is a good thing to hear and what isnt a good thing to hear. Pretty much have to use all senses but taste because uh duhh??lol and music gets rid of id say a pretty important one
Great feedback! Thanks for taking the time to share! 🤟
I agree with you 💯
Obviously a new diy car guy. Few years ago the You tubes taught me that taste is just as important. Wet puddle under car. If it has taste it’s an issue. No taste it’s just your a/c drain .(which in Australia is a regular thing).. a little bit of coolant or oil never killed nobody
Never taste anything! Smell it.
Just learned a new tip you didn't show. Remove the covers for the connections and put brake fluid letting gravity do it's thing until it leaks. About 3 minutes for me. Then connect the tube's and so forth. Saves from A LOT of pumping! 👍🏽
I don't think that works with every master cylinder, but if it worked for you that's great!
Sir I went 20 hours trying to figure this out. I love you 😂
Lol I'm glad it helped you! Thanks for watching! 🤟
FYI when you bleed the master cylinder correctly like you did you will then only need to bleed the brake lines at the master cylinder not at the wheel. PS I've been installing master cylinder since 1974.
I was wondering about this, thank you!
What if you want to flush the rest of the lines out at the wheels can this step be just as effective by bypassing the step you suggested
@@Gprime21 I don't know I've never done it the hard way. Try it and let us know.
@normstaley9799 cool thanks for not answering a simple question
@@Gprime21 your question made it sound like you wanted to bleed it at the calipers just because you didn't feel like doing it this way. so here's the answer to your question you have to bleed it at the High Point. the master cylinder is the high point. maybe you should go back and re-watch the video and pay attention this time. your question was answered in the very first sentence
Hit me baby one more time wasn't the right song choice. But thank you for the tutorial. Oops i did it again
Excellent video. Clear, detailed. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Background music is OK when it is a soft, easy going melody. No music is OK, too. Great video. New subscriber.
Thanks for the feedback! 🤟
Wouldn't it be something, if every master cylinder came with a couple plastic fittings, and a couple hoses for bleeding.
Why yes, yes it would lol. Let's not hold our breath though.
Thanks. It's been years since I last did this and my memory is shot. lol Oh and I prefer NO background music.
Thanks for the feedback! And thanks for watching! 🤟
never knew how to bench bleed till now and I currently work for Ford as an apprentice, still pretty brand new
Nice! I'm glad you found it helpful! Good luck in the future man!
Great video! Also, Definitely... No background music. Just the natural sound and audio is fine 🙂
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback!
Thankyou this is my first run. Watched about 8 videos and yours was by far the best!
Let you know how it went In about one hour...time to get it done!
Sweet! Let me know how it goes brother!
Sorry, I got wrapped up in all the other repairs. coils wires blow spark plug tap insert.....
Anyway, it went so smooth o ly took about 30 min took more time to get my master cylinder properly supported and levelish.
Your video made it so freak8ng easy I was amazed!!!! THANKS FOR YOUR TUTORIALS!!!!
Oh man that's great to hear! Thanks for the kind words! Glad you got it done brother!
I had to buy 2 bleeder kits. My MC has 3 fittings all the same size.
Nicely Done. But a word of advice. The blue and red fittings represent metric and sae threads. There are 2 of each fitting in the kit. So you should be using both red or both blue. Get a thread pitch tool to measure the thread pitch on the nuts that come fro the master cylinder. Thats the easiest way to determine if metric of sae. Then take calipers to find the diameter of the nut. Use the diameter and thread pitch to pick the right one from the kit!
Good tip! I tried quite a few different fittings, and the two I used fit the best. As long as it doesn't leak, it should be fine.
You can also block both ports of the master cly fill and bleed watch inside rev until air bubbles are gone no mess
Interesting, I did not know that!
Answered all my questions I thank you.
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Instead of using a work bench, just propped up on it's side a free wood pallet held up by bricks at the base. Was nice and sturdy in a pinch, and one clamp to hold the brake master cylinder
Good idea!
Clear and concise..- no music please
Sounds good, thanks for the feedback!
I would add that if you can hold the piston in and allow bubbles to naturally rise and then slowly release the piston so the bubbles don’t get sucked all the way back into the reservoir, you can more quickly purge them.
Good video! Maybe speed up the section where you are just pumping* away? The viewer can always slow it down in the app if they want to see everything. That’s all I have. 👍
*Edited:spelling
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Excellent video man. I had two questions though:
1. When bleeding your brake lines, should you have the vehicle running, turned all the way off, or the key turned so as to have the electronics on but the engine still off?
2. When bleeding the brakes, what should be done with the cap for the reservoir? Leave it off, have it on tight, or just let it sit on top of the opening but not tightened?
Thank you
Thanks man I appreciate it! Concerning your questions:
1. That's actually a great question. So, I probably should have covered that in my install video, but you do not need to have the key in the ignition at all. However, you will need to keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level the next time you change your brake pads. What I mean by that is if you are low on pads, and you fill the fluid all the way to the top of the Master Cylinder, the next time you change your brakes, the fluid will rise due to the calipers traveling less with the new pads. If you have new pads, than you can fill it right up to the full line without issue.
2. I like to unscrew the cap but leave it on the reservoir. If you take it completely off, you run the risk of debris getting into the fluid. So, unscrew the cap to easily allow the fluid to flow through the brake lines, but leave it on the reservoir to prevent debris from potentially clogging your master cylinder.
I hope this helps brother! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage It does man. Thanks for the speedy reply!
Hey quick question. Instead of clamping to a vice couldn't i just Bolt it back onto the brake booster and just press on the brake pedal?
Of course with the engine off and the bleeder kit with the clear hoses hook up to the master cylinder and looped back into the resivior just like you have it in the video.
I just don't have a vice or anyway to hold it down outside the vehicle.
Thanks for your video it was very informative.
Hey man, absolutely you can do it. I prefer to have it in a clamp of some sorts so I can see the air escape and will know immediately when the master cylinder is bled. If you have a second person, I would have them pump the brakes as you watch and make sure the air is escaping.
Whatever you choose to do, let me know how it goes!
This is probably the closest to mechanics pron I want to watch. FYI I was thinking of stranglehold while watching so no music is ok.
Lol, thanks for the feedback! It seems like everyone is opposed to music in these types of videos, so we will be leaving them out. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Great job said and done very helpful thanks for the video
Anytime! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Great video with an awesome explanation of the process. One question. What is the benefit to doing this on a bench vs. on the car? Or is it more just a preference?
I prefer to bench bleed because I can see when the air completely escapes. If you have a second person, you can do it on the vehicle. Otherwise, I feel like this is a better method.
You may have better luck if you crack the bleeder lines once you fill the tank, that will let fluid flow into the cylinder and ensure you aren't dry pumping the cylinder the first few times. Source of the comment comes from the instructions on a cylinder I just replaced. I think you can get the same results if you don't tighten the connectors until fluid starts to leak out a little, or pull the hose for a short period to allow the free flow of fluid to start and fill the cylinder. I also had luck pausing with the cylinder held in and holding the lines vertical to let the air work its way up before releasing the cylinder and drawing the air back in.
So before tightening the fittings, let fluid seep out of them first, then tighten and start pushing the cylinder in? Is that what you mean?
4 1m
m1qpp
I’d did it the same way you did and now I have a leak out of the piston after install.
How?
@@TrickShiftGarage scratch that, one of my brake lines out of the cylinder was leaking and spraying the base of the cylinder where it connects the the booster so I thought it was leaking, it’s not it’s a line that I had to flare myself apparently 1 out of 4 flares was bad. So I’ll have to do it again. Thanks for the video. By the way, I bench bled the cylinder before I watched your video. But thanks anyway.
You are the best bro, thank
Thanks for watching! 🙏
Great video. If the master cylinder runs dry during installation of the brake line. Does it have to be bled again? Thank you
Yes
My caps had size printed on them. Same for plastic fittings🤓
That's one thing I never checked! Good tip!
Was a good video; definitely don't like (distracting) music, while watching a video like this. Learned about bleeder kit, and how to use it; very good video.
Thanks for the feedback! 🤟
At the end where you're reinstalling the MC, when you disco the fitting, brake fluid will escape and air goes in right? How do you get that air out? Through normal bleeding procedure?
Yes, that's correct. Air will still have trouble entering the MC because fluid is pushing (albeit very slowly) out. But once you bleed each caliper (and drums if you have them), it will remove all air.
@@TrickShiftGarage I think removing the tubes from the reservoir and putting the reservoir cap back on will create a vacuum. This will help slow down the flow of brake fluid out of those ports.
@@TrickShiftGarage I think removing the tubes from the reservoir and putting the reservoir cap back on will create a vacuum. This will help slow down the flow of brake fluid out of those ports.
Yea that could definitely help. Would be a good thing to try!
Definitely no music
Focus grasshopper
Thank you so much for not having music 👍👍
The absolute best thing to use is 3/16 brake line..with nuts flaired on...keep this in your tool box.
You wont have leaks while bleeding
Great tip!
How do you have to keep filling the reservoir when it's just going back into the reservoir
The fluid is replacing the air inside of the master cylinder. So, you need to add more fluid as the air escapes.
Brilliant video! no background music works for me
Sounds good, thanks for the feedback!
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for watching! We appreciate it! 🙏
No music please. Excellent instructions.
Thanks for the feedback! We appreciate it! 🤟
Good video... doing a VW Bug right now. Yes, I prefer music but at a very low volume, and instrumental not someone singing.
Got it! Thanks for the feedback!
And let me know how it goes!
Before you take the master cylinder off the truck ,do you drain all the brake fluid In the MC what about in the lines
Yes, you want to remove as much brake fluid as possible and then put it in a container. You can use a turkey baster to siphon out the old fluid. The brake lines are fine. You don't need to remove the fluid since you will have to bleed the brakes afterwards anyway. Thanks for watching! 🤟
That's awesome thanks man 😎
Anytime brother! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Great video 🙌🤌
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Can this be done without removing the master cylinder and simply unplugging the two lines, place the two fittings, run the hose and use the brake pedal instead of the screwdriver?
I guess theoretically it could, but it will take a lot longer because the brake booster rod will not push the piston in as far as the punch/screwdriver. Since you have to remove the brake lines, you might as well just remove the 2 nuts and take it off. But that's just my opinion.
The problem I had was when installing the lines all the fluid came gushing out before I could get the lines tightened
Yea I've heard this from a couple of people now. I'm not quite sure why fluid pours out of some master cylinders. Mine was a slow drip.
Do you have a video on how to bleed the brakes as you stated that must be done after bench bleeding and installing the master cylinder?
As a female that's new to doing my own vehicle repairs, it would help me to have a video on how to bleed the brakes on each tire.😊💅🏼
Good video! Thank you🤩
No problem, thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🙏
Background music is fine...it is better than listening to somebody grunt. .
Thanks for the feedback!
Would this fix the air "hissing" I now occasionally hear after I replaced my rear calipers? I bled the rear brake lines using a helper, but now I hear this hissing noise and I can't determine if it's my master cylinder that needs a bench bleed, or if some other hose has air in it, or if it's a faulty brake booster
I would guess it's a vacuum line somewhere (maybe the one that connects the brake booster and the intake manifold). Let me know what you find out!
Many thanks. Quick question, my master cylinder has 3 lines vs yours with 2. Same procedure as you show ie 3 lines into the reservoir or just 2? It is a 1980’s Merc master cylinder. Thanks for your help.
I'm going to search around about this to make sure I don't give you incorrect information. I would guess it would be the same, but that's all that is. Just a guess.
I'll see what I can find.
@@TrickShiftGarage many thanks. I think it is all three back to the reservoir until no more bubbles. Will give it try, can’t hurt. Be well.
I’m having a hard time bench bleeding it. I was doing on a box without a vise. The piston is really hard to push without grabbing the base and only the sides of the MC so the air keeps returning back in the base. I’m planning on bench bleeding but on the car with the bleeder kit hoses still attached. What do you think? The MC is tilted slightly up while attached to the car. Is it still possible to completely bleed it out of air like that?
Hello Keviiiboo, I've never done it while it was attached to the brake booster before, but I would imagine it would work. It will take a long longer though. When bench bleeding, you are able to push the piston all the way in forcing a ton of air out. When you push in the brake pedal, you will only be pushing the piston in halfway, or 3/4's of the way. So I do think it's possible, but at the same time I have never done it that way so I'm not 100% sure.
@@TrickShiftGarage Okay, I will try. If it takes long then so be it. Thanks a lot for replying 🙂
No problem. Come back and let us know how it goes. I'm very interested to see how it worked out for you.
@@TrickShiftGarage SUCCESS! I forgot to come back for the update. I tried bleeding it in the car, but the fluid barely moved, so I ended up bench bleeding it outside of the car. I used a long extension and I had help from somebody. It was really hard pressing the piston, but I did manage to get a lot of air out. Next day I bled all wheels and drove it for an hour and the car stop perfectly fine 👍
Perfect! Glad to hear that man! 🤟
My piston was supper hard to push-but I persevered 😵💫
Awesome, glad you got it done! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage also the kit had two hose stoppers for transport-another kit I looked at had rubber stoppers to completely remove hoses🤩
Which kit did you go with?
Thanks man!
Thanks for watching! 🤟
For the music 👍
Thanks for the feedback!
is that an adapter piece in there so you have more room to get a socket in there?
I got new MC for my car but I just installed w out bleeding it but when I went to bleed the rear breaks nothing would come out only the front 2 , could bleeding the MC be why I get no fluid to the rear?
That could definitely be a part of it. You absolutely have to bleed the master cylinder or else there will always be air in your brake lines.
Where is part two on installing it back to the car?
If you look on the playlist on our channel for this 1995 F150, you can find the master cylinder installation video there! Thanks for watching! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage thanks buddy, i was scouring your playlist…
Why cant this be done with the cylinder bolted in place ? Install the rubber lines and then pump the pedal untill the lines show no bubbles. Some are even visible through the gap under the open hood.
You can, but you will need another person to confirm whether or not the air has completely escaped.
@@TrickShiftGarage Pump long enough to make a fair assumption of air removal. Then check the tubes for bubbles, if you dont see any then you are done. If you are suspect, then just keep pumping for another check.. Easy one person job.
You can do that, but you will be assuming the air has escaped. Do whatever you feel like doing. I'm not encouraging or discouraging anyone from doing anything to their vehicle.
@@TrickShiftGarage If there is no bubbles in the clear tube then the job is done. There is no assumption.
Then go for it. I'm not stopping you.
Is this really necessary? Last time I had a dry master cylinder I just filled it up on the vehicle & bled at the wheels like normal - hard pedal.
Yes, it's absolutely necessary. You have to bleed out the air from the master cylinder or else you will always have air in your lines.
@@TrickShiftGaragewas wondering the same thing, thanks for clarifying.
Anytime!
What is the name of the tool you are using to push in the piston? I know you said it, but I need it written down 😅
Hello! It's a tool called "Punch". Here is a link to the ones I bought. Very convenient!
amzn.to/45R5nYM
DEFINITELY.... Music 😊
Thanks for the feedback!
Great vid. I was wondering if there is air in the master cylinder does that also mean there will be air in the brake lines and vice versa? Or are the two seperate?
Yes, if you have air in your master cylinder, they will eventually travel to your brake lines as well. Thanks for watching!
@@TrickShiftGarage does it also work the other way around? I’m just wondering what happens if you bench bleed the cylinder then drive the car without bleeding the calipers and they contain air.
Hey Boss, what are those yellow caps you put on your brake lines?
Those came with the new brake lines I ordered from broncograveyard.com.
Very bad brake fluid can (it happened to me) inhibit stopping as quickly or not at all. Test brake fluid once a year with test strips and water tester. Ruel of thumb every two years or every 24000 miles replace all brake fluid by flushing with fresh brake fluid. If fluid test good brobley not necessary to change fluid that often.
Tap on a clip to paste it in the text box.
Good tips!
You have got to bench bleed a lot of people skip that, and they have nothing but problems a lot of air trapped in the system, and they spend days trying to bleed the air all the way to the back calipers
Completely agree!
How do you get from bench to vehicle without air being introduced into system ? Thanks
Hello Kevin! I kept the clear tubes in the same position and then unscrewed the fittings when I was ready to install the brake lines. Thanks for watching! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage Did you remove the fluid from the reservour or did you just have to transfer the cables really fast to avoid spilling too much brake fluid?
@@Dnasty1guess we will never know the answer. Trouble is my clutch is connected to the master cylinder on Peugeot van so I have to drain some of it or plug it somehow.
@@Dnasty1wondering the same thing. Looks like that part was edited out but I'm assuming there is some brake fluid that will leak out when switching from the bleeder hose to the brake lines?
Here is the full master cylinder video I posted. Hopefully this will help clarify those questions!
ua-cam.com/video/Z7_BIREQ9vk/v-deo.html
I couldn’t get my rear brakes to bleed where you have the blue fitting. I was thinking it was junk.
Have you replaced your RABS Module? Or is it original?
So is there a part 2? My problem is when I'm putting the brake master back in and unhook the hoses ... Fluid starts pouring out fast. And I think a lot of fluid is gone by the time I'm able to put on the brake lines and tighten them
I am currently working on a big brake bleeding video, but as far as connecting the brake lines to the master cylinder this is it.
Make sure you only do one line at a time and be ready to connect the line once you remove the fitting. I lost very minimal fluid doing it this way.
@@TrickShiftGarage Well I lose a ton of fluid doing it that way. And no pressure on the break afterwards at all. I seen another video where a guy did on bleeding the brake Master. If you search" brake master cylinder sprinter". Basically the kit fits over the cap for the brake master and you just pump it up and you don't have to do anything it sucks up all the air apparently. There's no disconnecting of brake lines and putting a bleed kit on there and then disconnecting the brake lines and the fluid leaking out while you're trying to put the original brake lines back on. Seems like that way would be a hundred times better to just put something on the cap and suck out all the bubbles from top. It comes with a couple different caps to make sure it fits and then a pretty big plastic jug with a hand pump on it and pressure gauge so you can read that also
Well, if you want to give it a shot I say go for it. But I know the way I did it has been done for decades. So I kind of trust this process more.
After mounting the master cylinder and before removing the fittings and hoses get a piece of wood to go between the brake pedal and front part of the driver's lower seat cushion. Cut the wood to a length so that when you move the seat forward some it will push the brake pedal down. You just want to move the brake pedal down enough to close off the compensation port of the master cylinder, which will prevent the fluid from leaking out of the reservoir. It doesn't take much pedal movement for the master cylinder pistons to move past and close off the ports, as a guide use the brake lights, when they come on that's usually far enough. There will be a little fluid loss when removing the fittings and hoses but it should stop quickly and you won't drain the fluid out of the reservoir with the ports blocked off. You'll then need to bleed the system at each of the wheel bleeders. You can get some air out of the master cylinder lines after connecting them; with a partner's help to press on the brake pedal or moving the seat forward with the wood on the pedal you can then crack open the master cylinder line fittings to let air out. This will get some air out but a full bleed will still be needed.
Very interesting Doug, I was unaware you could do this. Great information!
Well done no bs
Thank you
Anytime, thanks for watching! 🤟
Nice video, reminds me of my Honeymoon
🤣 this is the best comment we have received in 4 years since the channel was started. Cheers to you, brother.
Yeah, reminded me of your wife also 😁
Need a special particular kind of music for this situation between the does squeaking sound that favors maybe a bed and then let's not forget the in and out of the piston need some AKA old school John Holmes music playing LOL😂😂
🤣 that would have been hilarious!
Depends on music there is always an appropriate song. For this one you should have "push it" " push it real good" old hip hop song 😂
🤣 good point!
Why can't you mount it and just pump the break peddle?
You can, never said you couldn't . But you will need another person to make sure all of the air escapes.
When I removed the fitting all of my brake fluid leaked out quick. Didn’t give me enough time to put my brake line on. What can I do to prevent that
It shouldn't leak out very fast. Some fluid may come out, but it theoretically should just drip out slowly. What kind of vehicle do you have?
Ford Fusion 2010 2.5L manual transmission. My reservoir has an extra hole. Also, the largest fitting I got from the kit, didn't properly seal, so some of my brake fluid leaked out while I was "bench" bleeding. But yeah... I had a difficult time doing this and got pretty frustrated when everything just drained out when I removed one fitting. Didn't give me any time to put the brake line on. Any insights will help, and thanks for replying.@@TrickShiftGarage
Hey Jeff, I'm still searching for information on this. I'm not 100% sure why it's pouring out like that. Was this a brand new master cylinder, or a rebuilt/used unit?
Also, I believe you have an extra hole in it because you have a manual transmission. A lot of vehicles use that instead of having a separate reservoir for clutch fluid.
I also tried looking for information on this but could not find anything. It's a rebuilt one. I checked all the seals and everything looked fine. When I was bench bleeding, the only place it leaked out was where the fittings were located.
Ah, that makes sense, thank you for that piece of information. Thanks again for trying though. Your time is well appreciated.@@TrickShiftGarage
Anytime brother. If you ever figure out the issue or get it fixed, please let me know!
unobtrusive music in the background does make the experience more pleasant. But if the music is drowning the content, it defeats the purpose. Thanks for this tutorial, clear, step by step guide even an idiot like me can follow!😉
I gotcha. Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad you found it helpful! 🤟
background music is for entertainment. People are trying to concentrate and learn, so music would be a distraction and annoyance.
Sounds good! Thanks for the feedback!
great video on bench bleeding.. great commentary, yeah on music in an instructional video, there is no place for it. I'm watching and listening to what is going on in a video, to hear for example how the piston is sounding. I'd just assume hear the ambient noise of your shop if you are not talking. But, I prefer to talking and zero music. Instructional videos are not the place for music.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback! It seems like everyone agrees with you because I haven't seen anyone mention they like music in these types of videos. So we will leave it out from now on. 🤟
thank you sir 👍
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment Justin! 🤟
Would reverse bleeding help this ?
I don't think it's necessary if you follow this.
Some do! Mine didn’t🥲
Why do you have to bench bleed ??? Can you not do this installed??? Is the angle it is positioned an issue???
This is the best way to bleed a master cylinder. You have to make sure all air is removed from it. If you try this on the vehicle, you need a second person to watch the air escape, and you also have to be very careful while pushing the piston in. You want to move as slow as possible to ensure you are getting the air out.
Bench bleeding is the best way imo.
Why not use a hand vacuum pump. Took me 5 min to bleed the ports.
You can if you want.
5:10 what was that ? is that a peter griffin reference🤣??
Lol yea, I wanted to add a little flare to the video. Thanks for watching! 🤟
I would have installed it in the Car and use the brake peddle to blead it
It's an option. But it will take longer and you will have to keep getting in and out of the car to make sure the air is bled out (unless you have a second person that can watch).
It's a joke trying to bleed my master cylinder on my Peugeot partner van . You can't put the pipes in the reservoir as there's nowhere for it to touch fluid and also the clutch is fed from the tank so you can't bench bleed it because it will all leak out . I've been trying for ages . Anyone got any ideas?
Hello Ajwa! Have you seen this?
www.justanswer.com/peugeot/4hena-peugeot-partner-hello-peugeot-partner-2-0l-van-just.html
This may be able to answer your question. Seems like you can't bleed it off of the car. You may need to grab a second person and bleed it while it's on your Peugeot.
@@TrickShiftGarage cool . I will try again tomorrow . Thanks 🙏
Let me know how it goes brother!
NO Music👍
Thanks for the feedback!
For music 🎶
Do not take the piston too far
I pushed it in pretty far and don't have any issues.
Why?
@@nodnarblac
Ruin seals in new master cylinder. Put block of wood under to prevent over travel
You will not have an issue pushing the piston all the way in as long as you aren't moving too fast. Pay attention to how I did it in this video and you will be fine.
👍
no music 👍
Thanks for the feedback! 🤟
awesome and please, no music.
Thanks for the feedback! 🤟