99-04 Mustang 3.8 v6 Engine Removal
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2024
- Engine removal of a 2001 mustang 3.8 v6 engine. Applies to all 99-04 v6 mustang.
The intake, exhaust and a couple other things my be slightly different from a stock v6 but the removal should mostly be the same.
Total removal time= 4 hours 45 mins
Engine removal was done only by me (except for someone helping with the hood and clutch cable.) recommended that you have someone help, it will save a lot of time.
Also recommend that you use a transmission jack. What I did is risky and very slow.
With a transmission jack, impact gun and a friend or two, the engine could have been out in under 2 hours.
Thanks for watching!
Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Airhammers also work really well if airtools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck!
Beginning the Swap:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harnessconnector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harnessconnector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose.
12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose.
13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.
*NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM.
15. Remove the grommet and wireharness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steeringpump belt and pump.
17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the airconditioning compressor belt.
18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp.
19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T).
20. Remove the shift cable (CVT).
21. Disconnect the power steeringpressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp.
22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution)
23. Raise the hoist to full height.
24. Remove the front tires/wheels andsplash shield.
25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator.
26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer.
27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.
28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage.
29. Remove the AC Compressor.
30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe.
31. Remove the damper forks.
32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints.
33. Remove the driveshafts.
34. Lower the hoist.
35. Remove the upper and lowerradiator hoses and heater hoses.
36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.
37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket.
38. Remove the rear mount bracket.
39. Remove the upper bracket.
40. Remove the transmission mountbracket, then remove the transmission mount.
41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring.
42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car.
That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck!
thanks for taking the time to post this for others to read. good shit man
That's a long list.. Lol
Awesome job you did!!! And to top it all off you even give step by step directions on this too in the comments. What a winner you are... Thankyou very much...😊😊
Dude your a real one, really appreciate this vid, tryna get this 02 3.8 good for my little brother for his first car, but I've liked this thing so much I might get another😂 anyways rlly appreciate the vid tho it helped so much 👌
just successfully did my engine swap. piece of cake! nice video
Paul Blakey is it worth it ? Or better trade in for a newer gt ?
Great I gotta do mine tommorow you guys are a big help and very encouraging.. Thanks
Alejandro Pena never trade in the new edge is the sexiest body man
@Nate a good socket set/ratchet set, some jack stands, a engine puller, second jack for transmission,
wow ever this young fella learn from he learned well .why pay someone when its ur car do it urself ..Thats wassup 💪👍
I'm pretty sure you used the wiring harness from the v8 engine of course but did you have to change the receiving end? Not the plug but the big box that's attached to the car ? I'm swapping mine but wanna make sure the harness is compatible since it WAS a v6
Hi David I have a 2000 Ford Mustang V-6 . Color Green. I wanted to ask you how much will it cost to put in a V-8 GT . And make it into a ROUCH .
Where did you buy your new engine?
An elapsed time clock starting at 12:00 in the background would have been a nice extra touch so we could get a time sense. Also, would it be easier to remove the transmission with the engine then disconnect it out of the car? I saw that you disconnected the drive shaft and thought that you were removing the engine-trans as a group. Great video.
+Theresa Anderson Thanks! I though about taking the engine out with the transmission but from what I read on forms, it is much easier to disconnect the transmission. Plus, even if I wanted to do that I couldn't because I would have had to raise up my car up quite a bit more and I didn't want to raise it up that high with my basic jack stands. Also tilting the engine back and pulling it out that way would have been much more difficult.
It looked like you pulled the driveshaft and trans mount to simply lower the back of the transmission. I assume that you also inched the transmission away from the engine. Is that crucial in the removal process? If so, is it basically to gain room for finally lifting the engine out? I am just starting the same project with a 2000 3.8 to non PI 4.6. Thanks!
Getting the starter I sware would be the hardest part removing the skid plate is so hard
Thanks for the perspective not so scared now 😅😂😅
U did the smart way i pulled motor by itself n it no fun task at all especially top 2 bell housing bolts
I stripped one. Now I’m trying to fight and figure out what I’m going to do
comments and concerns... Bro epic background music, nice job!
Haha I was waiting for eye of the Tiger to start in at some point
did a awesome job I'm gonna pull my motor out now thanks for the encouragement
don't worry about negative comments man this is a bad ass video I watch it all the time for the fun of it kinda funny to how fast you was moving also i did not know you could use the windstar air intake manifold that's from the ford van right?
I'm debating on if I should just pay someone to put the new one in.
[ jan. 2, 2020] Good job. Hope the engine replacement went well. I bought an engine hoist to remove a v6 from a buick and the lifting arm of the hoist wasn't quite long enough. I'd like to pass on the fact that a ' square tube ' Winch support mount from a single axle BOAT trailer for a 16 foot john boat slides right into the Engine Hoist lifting arm. Drill a hole to pass a bolt threw the two pieces and presto; instant engine hoist lifting arm extension to complete the job.
I have a 3.8 and I have the transmission unbolted and all that but there is this rod that goes from the center of the transmission to the tensioner pully and I can't figure out how to get it off
How hard is it to install windstar manifold? A lot of relocating stuff? Any special parts?
how did u access the power steering bolt, im currently replacing the heads on my 95 mustang. just wondering
This is why I have a lift and drop engine and trans along with k member, easy took 2 hours
Why did you not take the transmission with the engine
Can you take the transmission out with the engine
Yeah and its super easy if your on a lift and removing the k member and dropping it out of the car that way. Thats what i did
I'm on day 2 of my Engine swap and I'm stuck at the trans bell housing I CANNOT break though's bots they are so F@%&ing tight! How did you get thoughs off so damn easy?
+ADENS SKY, I know what you mean! The reason it looked easy in my video was... well.. it kinda was because earlier I did a transmission swap from auto to manual, and because the bolts were recently removed they were not as hard to remove. When I removed my auto for the first time, the bolts were a pain to get off! You just have to be patient and persistent. Use a 3/8 ratchet and someone with a small hand if you can, to get the top ones. You may want to spray some lubricant or rust removal on the bolts depending on their condition. A way to give you more room and better leverage is to loosen or remove the engine mount bolts, then tilt the engine and transmission back by removing the transmission bolts connecting to the rear then lower it down with a jack. This will give you quite a bit more room, that way you can fit your hand in there and maybe a larger wrench.
That's actually a great idea! I'm going to give that a try! One of the biggest problems (regardless of the 120.000 lb torque) Is that I'm using a 2 foot extension with a u-joint and it keeps slipping off the nut. If I could get it flush and stay flush that would do the trick.
+ADENS SKY I had the same situation I was stuck on the transmission for a while because I couldnt get the trans bolts to bell housing out or the bell housing to engine, I hit them with a torch all the sprays and even an impact wrench and nothing worked.. I pulled it engine and trans together and the bolts came out way easier out of the car with the impact wrench
I'm doing one right now, considering pulling trans too
I am removing my v6 mustang engine to swap it with another one but there is one a few bolts on the transmission that won't budge or we can't reach how did you get them
working taking mine and putting it in a new body. do I have to have the same body year of a 2003 mustang car?
You should put the camera closer to what u are doing great big a lot of help fr but I can’t see a lot in the vid
Can you just use both the boat in the back of the boat in the front with the leveler just pull it out
damn dude looks hard good job!
did you have to drain the A/C system to remove or did you just lossen the compressor and move it out of the way?
No, I just unbolted it from the engine and moved it out of the way.
perfect, I'm doing an engine swap on my 01 3.8L right now and i was worrying i wouldn't have the slack in the AC lines to move it far enough, reallllly didn't want to have to vacuum out and refill the AC after i was done.
what kind of intake manifold you got?
Hey question do you have to take the clutch and pressure plate off or does it come out on the flywheel and motor ???
It comes when you pull it off together
how long did this take? I'm about to do a swap on my 01 and want a general idea of the ballpark of time spent taking the old one out
+someperson851 If you have a good idea on what you are doing it should take you around 5 hours. I think the hardest and longest part for me was getting the trans off.
+David Franker yeah I've worked on a few engines. Got a good idea. Engine had 244k miles and a rod decided to bust so picked up a new engine with 34k miles for $700 and it was a complete engine so it'll literally be take one out put the new one in.
+someperson851 Nice! ya that was about what miles mine had on in and I got it for $500. It shouldn't take any more than 10 hours, or a full day.
+David Franker sounds good. thanks!
Hats Off, young man!! Hope you calculated that rope strength ;o) Seemed fine, good job!! Maybe not the safest method, but anyway, nice speed, I think always good to have at least one friend helping, I just took my Infiniti FX45 engine out, in very, very tight garage, 9.5 x 20 feet, actually dropped engine down, after I jacked my car high enough, just was able to do it! That engine, mine is so heavy, 4.5 litre V8, that I really had " a little bit stronger" rope, actually flat , like towing sling, did OK, not this speed though....., the garage is so tight place. All the haters, just look, how things get done, stop complaining, and drinking beer, and masturbating same time, you can do anything, if you want to!!! This young man, and actually me too, just proved it!!! Keep it up, young man, what you will replacing it ?? I bet GT 5.0 litre, right??? I also have Mustang 2004, 3.8 litre, not taking engine out, but "spicing it up" a bit, maybe 300 HP???, we'll see, need some help from any Mustang guy out there, how to reprogram, retune my ECU after changing fuel injectors, and camsahft, stage 2?? Anybody??? Is there a tuning program somewhere, I could just download into my laptop??? Thanks guys, and keep it up, young man, youtheman=))
nice job .how's it going and any new updates? thanks
would a 4.6 bolt right up to the original mounts? and would i need a new driveline if i swapped a motor and transmission 4.6 2v from a crown vic?
You would need the motor mounts for the 4.6 but i believe that they would fit in the stock 3.8 k-member. I'm not sure if the transmission would work. I don't remember what they had in it. There are a lot of things involved in the swap though. new wiring harness, new ecu, new driveshaft, hydroboost pump swap, etc, you could keep your 7.5 rear end though. Depending on how much you can get it for might not be the best option in my opinion.
Change the computer if it’s automatic
V6 max at 120 mph when u swap to v8 and up does it still go 120?
Great now I have a ton of questions !
So this was a V6 to start out with and you put a V8 in it? Just wondering because I want to do it to my V6
I blew the motor and just put the v6 back in, didn't have the money to put v8 in plus i would rather mod my v6.
ahh ok thanks
David Franker hey love the bumper but here's a thought ever though of dealing with LMR?
Late Model Restoration out of Killeen TX they deal with nothing but Ford's they are on UA-cam as well but I'm having waterpump issues much less having to swap the timing chain cover cause the people that had this car prior to me didn't take care of it and now this 2000 model is in my hands and the car needs a complete overhaul
Depending on what parts you are getting you could probably get them on eBay or your local auto parts. I bought by bumper on eBay and my clutch from Napa. If you want aftermarket parts for your mustang I recommend American Muscle! I have used LMR before and was not impressed with their product quality and customer service. Unless your mustang is hevaly modified I would not suggest getting aftermarkets parts such as a water pump unless it is cheaper which I dout would be. Just go to your local auto parts store and get them. Remember buying the cheaper version is tempting and sometimes ok but usually will bit you down the road..... I would l know... I would buy the cheaper version all the time, and it took me far to long to learn better... lol.
I'm having to deal with a lousy ass automatic with 275,000.0 miles on it and is gonna cost me out the wazoo on parts
Execelente, gracias !!
where are the torque converter bolts? I have motor mount bolts off, all bell housing bolts are off, starter is off and Im wrecking my brain now trying to figure this out.
they are actually studs with nuts, 4 of them. they are connected to the flywheel located in the bell housing, there is an access point on the drivers side of the trans or you can get to them by removing the starter.
what would be cheaper to rebuild my ford mustang v6 or swap a new motor in
Depends... like a complete rebuild, or just top end?
Do I have to disconnect the driveshaft ?
I have a mustang 3.2 in ingine but I want to see if I can put 3.8 on it can I do or what you can tell me both are v6
Now why would you swap another v6 into it?
Lol cause swapping in a v8 would cost shit ton
Nice job, where's the video of going back in?
+Jordyn Hanson (Piny97) Hopefully coming soon. I have had some problems with the videos
donde esta el recipiente de agua de limpia brisas
del mustang 99
did you have to lower the k member to remove the engine?
No, I only had to remove the engine mount plates, other than that I didn't touch the k-member.
hey dude sorry to bother but whats the name of the soundtrack at 3.41 Iove it
requiem for a dream
how can i get the step by step on the swap
+Tessa Miller I'm not sure if anyone has done a detailed step by step write up on this type of swap. I didn't. I just did it. I am no professional by any means but if you know how things work on a car than the removal and installation of a new engine would be a breeze! you can do it anyway you like but the basics just apply. You have to remove all connection to the engine, Wiring harness fuel, exhaust, draining and disconnecting the cooling system..etc. I removed more than is necessary just so that it would be easier to get to the rest of the parts off and remove the engine without parts rubbing against the bay. For example I removed the upper intake so that I could remove some of the connections on the back side of the engine and so that the intake would not rub on the engine bay. Also you will have to remove the transmission. Start by removing the drive shaft, followed by the shiftier and then the 7 or so bolts from the bell housing to the engine. Use a transmission jack if you can.( It will make things much easier then how I did it!) Slowly wiggle it out and lower it to the ground. Then after everything is disconnected from the engine, remove the large nuts on the motor mounts. Then get your engine lift and connect it to something sturdy, (I connected it to the exhaust.) Slowly lift it up and make sure your not dragging anything. It should slide out with no problem. I have the installation video that I hopefully will be posting soon if you want to see that also. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
David, I can understand why you used the rope, due to the 5mm (8mm head) bolts for the intake, and the risk of tearout on the aluminum heads. I am tempted to do a hybrid of that, except use a leveler, and wrap the chain around the exhaust manifolds......any thoughts on that? BTW, this is on an f150 4.2L, similar block.
Where to find Cobra bumper?
hello i have one question ford mustang 1995 how much horsepower ?
1995 3.8 v6 had 145hp
+David Franker thanks sir,but how do i know if my car 1995 Ford Mustang GT Convertible or 1995 Ford Mustang GT Coupe or Mustang 4th-gen. Base Convertible bcuz
GT Convertible 215 hp
www.automobile-catalog.com/car/1995/885395/ford_mustang_gt_convertible.html
GT Coupe 215 hp
www.automobile-catalog.com/make/ford_usa/mustang_4gen/mustang_4gen_gt_coupe/1995.html
Convertible 3.8L V-6 147 hp
www.automobile-catalog.com/make/ford_usa/mustang_4gen/mustang_4gen_base_convertible/1995.html
Hicham Sa Ah
Just looking at the engine should tell you all about it
whats the color code for your car ?
Mineral Grey
Thanks
Is that a split port induction?
All the 01-04 mustang 3.8's were
@@dmfranker2509maybe but that port is different.
How so? my intake is split port. Also I ment split port was from 99-04 but the 01-04 used actuators to open the second ports at certain rpm.
@@dmfranker2509 I have an 01. Mine are metallic color. His is black. Also his opening is in the front whereas others are facing the passenger
Ah yes. You are talking about the upper intake. My upper intake is not stock. The intake comes from a ford windstar van and is modified to work on the mustang.
hey people i need a favor can you hel me i have a 2002 mustang and i need to replace coolant temperature sensor but i dont know where is locate
HELLO, WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR IS LOCATED ABOVE THE BLOCK MOTOR, VERY HIDDEN, BEHIND THE AIR BLOWER AND VERTICALLY. I ALSO DEMORE TO FIND IT !!
Camera shouldve been closer.. Lol can't really tell how to or where to remove everything
do anyone knows if a 1999 4.0 ford engine will fit in a 1998 mustang that has a 3.8
David Zeno the transmissions are different
Someone else helping you with the camera would have been nice and would have been nice to not have to listen to that music but rather you explaining what you were doing but I guess you can't get everything you want.
Can I put 01 3.8l engine in 96 mustang?
Daniel Contreras yes just gotta change the plenum
Is that motor good
No, it had a dropped valve
what's the name of the first song
+Jack Kenny 300 Violin Orchestra - Jorge Quintero
+David Franker thanks bud
Water Bottle lol
That ladies and gentlemen, is how you forget this and take a walk to your local mustang dealership with a loan...
Who on here in Richmond can take my engine out my 2004 mustang & put a new one in??
Nice job!..but you removed to much stuff
Do not use nylon rope....dangerous.
Depends on the tensile strength of the rope. Good nylon rope can hold over 500lbs easily. He also looped it around a few times, increasing the overall tensile strength. But I wouldn't have used rope due to its ability to stretch which makes the job a lot harder. Not to mention the motor could easily rotate and possibly fall out of the rope sling he made. Chain bolted to the front/back of the cylinder heads is much better/easier (available for rent at most auto parts stores) or better yet an adjustable engine leveler (available at Harbor Freight fairly inexpensively).
Harbor freight items will fail. I know by experience. Lol
Some of their stuff is crap, but their heavy duty engine leveler (the orange one) has served me well for a number of years and more engine/tranny pulls then I can remember. It's paid for itself a number of times over.
That’s a cobra not a v6 lord 🤦🏾♂️
Cobra front bumper yes. But it's a v6..
@@dmfranker2509 what’s tht on your engine?
Are you referring to my intake?
@Hakeem Alston bro that is not no cobra mane
@@fruitloop_honda3706 ^
My bad commented to soon lol
Buy a Chevy
And you won't have to take the old one out! Lol
lies, I had to pull my ls1 from under the car which makes the job ten times harder if you don't have a lift.
Why did you remove the driveshaft and transmission mount?
What do you mean by driveshaft and transmission mount?