I don't know why, but I don't think I have ever fought one on a modular engine. Even with living in the midwest with all the salt being used in the winter.
just a tip and only the tip if you can take the trans and motor out together then take off and put together outside of the car gives a lot more forgiveness and room for little stuff and helps a lot
Thank you for posting this video. Earlier this year I bought a 2000 mustang GT 4.6 from a kid who bought it from some other guy. Anyway the engine was just sitting in the engine bay, it wasn't even bolted in. The top of the engine was stripped down to the heads and valley. These modular engines are different than anything I've ever worked on and it's been years since I've rebuilt an engine. It came with three intakes two throttle bodies and other random parts. Putting it back together was a challenge to say the least. I couldn't figure out where some things went. Your video was immensely helpful, I wish I'd found it sooner. I am having a problem with finding the correct harmonic balancer though. Every one that I've tried drags on the timing chain cover once fully installed. Do you have any ideas as to why that is. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you again!
I have been thinking about this to hopefully give you a helpful answer. First, let's start with a couple of questions. Was this engine opened up at all when you picked it up? Were the valve cover/s off or timing cover? The only thing I can think of is if the reluctor ring wasn't installed, it could cause the balancer to be pulled in too far and touch the timing cover. A way to check this when the timing cover is on would be to remove the crank position sensor and look for the teeth on the ring. If timing was done for some reason, it may have been installed using the wrong crank gear. These modulars have 2 different styles, and the ring must be matched with the gear. A part in the video I have about timing goes through these 2 different gear styles. With all the extra parts, it's very possible the balancer is wrong. Here is a link for a balancer from Rockauto if you do want to replace it. They have treated me well over the years when ordering, and parts pricing is extremely difficult to beat. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,mustang,4.6l+v8,1362743,engine,harmonic+balancer,5512 I wish I could help further, but hopefully, this gives you a good starting point.
Thank you for your reply. Someone had been inside the engine and there was evidence they had no idea what they were doing. I rebuilt the engine and installed new rings, crank and rod bearings, water and oil pumps, and new timing chains. The engine had two small gears on the crank along with a stamped reluckor wheel. The gears are raised on one side and concaved on the other. If I don't put the two raised sides together, the chains contact each other. When installed this way there's nothing to hold the reluckor wheel away from the chain and it allows the balancer to protrude too far into the timing chain cover. I ordered a one piece crank gear, I'm hoping this is the remedy. I should have the new gear in the next day or so, I'll let you know what happens. Thank you again!
I'm hoping you can help me with another issue. The engine runs fine other than it's burning pretty rich. My problem now is with the hydro-boost. When I start the car, the brake pedal immediately pins to the floor and the ps pump squals . When I turn the car off, it releases and comes back up. My initial thought was that I had it plumbed backwards, but the lines seem to only go on one way. Have you had any experience with this problem?
It is a GEARWRENCH 15 Piece Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool Set - 3680D. I believe I got it from Cornwell Tools, but it looks like you can pick one up on Amazon for $54.14 before tax.
I have not created a video about an f-150, but the process is very similar. The top end intake components are slightly different. That is about the only difference. If you have specific questions about the process with an F-150, let me know. Those were what I worked on every day at the beginning of my automotive career.
I don't know why you didn't pull the coil.Packs out before you pulled off the cold Air. intake manifold Now you have a broken coil pack. And trust me, those things are expensive, especially when you go through O'reilly's. Or a part Store buying on line, it's not so bad.😂😂
I do have replacements, and what you saw was the boot coming off the coil, which is a replaceable part. The coil itself did not break. I will go through the old coils explaining the signs for when they go bad and replacing the boots, which essentially acts as a plug wire.
Yes. There is a spacer plate between the engine and transmission that the starter goes through. The flywheel can not slip past this plate, so the plate needs to be removed with the engine, which means the starter must come out.
It will be very similar. Modular engines are fairly good about being pretty much the same between every vehicle they were in with a couple exceptions. The major differences tend to be with the 4V engines.
It really depends on what kind of vehicle. I have never pulled a Mustang 4V. I can only speak to a 5.4 4V Navigator and a 4.6 4V Continental with the transverse setup. With the Navigator, it has a 2 piece intake, which is a pain. The temp sensor was also in a weird spot. It was located on the back of the passenger side head. I didn't know it was there until I heard the pigtail snap while lifting the engine. You may already know about the coil covers on the valve covers, but it is worth mentioning due to the harness being hidden underneath. The intake area is really the only difference I have seen with the 4V. The continental is a different story being transverse. Slightly similar bolt locations, but way less room for hands and a very weird coolant crossover between the heads on the front of the engine.
@@VZGarage360 I see. I'll be pulling a 4v from a mach 1. I'll definitely have to go slow and be careful. I don't wanna mess up the harness for sure. Thanks for the info!
At the time, I had no idea. I was basing it off of pulling one of these engines from an f150. But if I were to do this again, that is the way I would do it.
Thank you for the advice and specific tools, a real time saver.
I am happy I was able to help!
I was shocked how easily the nut on your EGR valve came loose. Mine was a sin! I thought I was going to break it off the intake!
I don't know why, but I don't think I have ever fought one on a modular engine. Even with living in the midwest with all the salt being used in the winter.
Thank you for this video all the other videos don’t show you nothing like your video did
Glad it helped
V.vbgb:😮😅bnb😅😅,
S.
just a tip and only the tip if you can take the trans and motor out together then take off and put together outside of the car gives a lot more forgiveness and room for little stuff and helps a lot
Thanks. I was removing it like I would in an f150. If I ever do another one of these, that is what I will do.
A+ , am watching whole thing but luv yore timeline . ThankU ... the REAL Dave who .. tRDw
Thank you for posting this video. Earlier this year I bought a 2000 mustang GT 4.6 from a kid who bought it from some other guy. Anyway the engine was just sitting in the engine bay, it wasn't even bolted in. The top of the engine was stripped down to the heads and valley. These modular engines are different than anything I've ever worked on and it's been years since I've rebuilt an engine. It came with three intakes two throttle bodies and other random parts. Putting it back together was a challenge to say the least. I couldn't figure out where some things went. Your video was immensely helpful, I wish I'd found it sooner. I am having a problem with finding the correct harmonic balancer though. Every one that I've tried drags on the timing chain cover once fully installed. Do you have any ideas as to why that is. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you again!
I have been thinking about this to hopefully give you a helpful answer. First, let's start with a couple of questions. Was this engine opened up at all when you picked it up? Were the valve cover/s off or timing cover? The only thing I can think of is if the reluctor ring wasn't installed, it could cause the balancer to be pulled in too far and touch the timing cover. A way to check this when the timing cover is on would be to remove the crank position sensor and look for the teeth on the ring.
If timing was done for some reason, it may have been installed using the wrong crank gear. These modulars have 2 different styles, and the ring must be matched with the gear. A part in the video I have about timing goes through these 2 different gear styles.
With all the extra parts, it's very possible the balancer is wrong. Here is a link for a balancer from Rockauto if you do want to replace it. They have treated me well over the years when ordering, and parts pricing is extremely difficult to beat.
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,mustang,4.6l+v8,1362743,engine,harmonic+balancer,5512
I wish I could help further, but hopefully, this gives you a good starting point.
Thank you for your reply. Someone had been inside the engine and there was evidence they had no idea what they were doing. I rebuilt the engine and installed new rings, crank and rod bearings, water and oil pumps, and new timing chains. The engine had two small gears on the crank along with a stamped reluckor wheel. The gears are raised on one side and concaved on the other. If I don't put the two raised sides together, the chains contact each other. When installed this way there's nothing to hold the reluckor wheel away from the chain and it allows the balancer to protrude too far into the timing chain cover. I ordered a one piece crank gear, I'm hoping this is the remedy. I should have the new gear in the next day or so, I'll let you know what happens. Thank you again!
I got the one piece crank gear today. I installed it and put the engine back together this evening. It works fine. That was the problem!
That's awesome! I'm happy it was a simple fix!
I'm hoping you can help me with another issue. The engine runs fine other than it's burning pretty rich. My problem now is with the hydro-boost. When I start the car, the brake pedal immediately pins to the floor and the ps pump squals . When I turn the car off, it releases and comes back up. My initial thought was that I had it plumbed backwards, but the lines seem to only go on one way. Have you had any experience with this problem?
Thank you for this video !
Happy to help!
What’s the name of the tool you used on the torque converter bolts and where did you get it
It is a GEARWRENCH 15 Piece Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool Set - 3680D. I believe I got it from Cornwell Tools, but it looks like you can pick one up on Amazon for $54.14 before tax.
Here is a link for this tool from Amazon.
a.co/d/jiUaloi
@@VZGarage360thanks
Do you have a video removing a 4.6L Engine from an F-150? Great videos BTW.
I have not created a video about an f-150, but the process is very similar. The top end intake components are slightly different. That is about the only difference. If you have specific questions about the process with an F-150, let me know. Those were what I worked on every day at the beginning of my automotive career.
I don't know why you didn't pull the coil.Packs out before you pulled off the cold Air. intake manifold Now you have a broken coil pack. And trust me, those things are expensive, especially when you go through O'reilly's. Or a part Store buying on line, it's not so bad.😂😂
I do have replacements, and what you saw was the boot coming off the coil, which is a replaceable part. The coil itself did not break. I will go through the old coils explaining the signs for when they go bad and replacing the boots, which essentially acts as a plug wire.
Thank you for this Video ‘ 💯
My pleasure!
do you have to take off the starter just to do a engine removal
Yes. There is a spacer plate between the engine and transmission that the starter goes through. The flywheel can not slip past this plate, so the plate needs to be removed with the engine, which means the starter must come out.
Would this be the same for a 2000 grand marquis
It will be very similar. Modular engines are fairly good about being pretty much the same between every vehicle they were in with a couple exceptions. The major differences tend to be with the 4V engines.
@@VZGarage360thanks
@@VZGarage360 What are the major differences with the 4v? pulling one soon, which is why im here xD
It really depends on what kind of vehicle. I have never pulled a Mustang 4V. I can only speak to a 5.4 4V Navigator and a 4.6 4V Continental with the transverse setup. With the Navigator, it has a 2 piece intake, which is a pain. The temp sensor was also in a weird spot. It was located on the back of the passenger side head. I didn't know it was there until I heard the pigtail snap while lifting the engine. You may already know about the coil covers on the valve covers, but it is worth mentioning due to the harness being hidden underneath. The intake area is really the only difference I have seen with the 4V.
The continental is a different story being transverse. Slightly similar bolt locations, but way less room for hands and a very weird coolant crossover between the heads on the front of the engine.
@@VZGarage360 I see. I'll be pulling a 4v from a mach 1. I'll definitely have to go slow and be careful. I don't wanna mess up the harness for sure. Thanks for the info!
Remove Engine and Trans in these, and save yourself a lot of headache.
At the time, I had no idea. I was basing it off of pulling one of these engines from an f150. But if I were to do this again, that is the way I would do it.
Yeah , Like those Needle nose pliers ... Dw
So what the he'll is wrong with the engine 🤔🦧
Here is a link to the teardown of this engine. It was pretty bad...
ua-cam.com/video/OTHbuNyReYw/v-deo.html