Both types only do one thing - provide clamping. Both don't take shearing load or act as the hub's axle and therefore don't affect stiffness other than clamping load. Both provide similar clamping amounts - the thinner QR is steel, the larger thru axle is aluminium. The screw in thru axles tend to actually provide _less_ clamping force! You'll only get slipping if it's not tight enough. Your point on the mounting point being repeatable when installing wheels with thru axles is valid though.
4:20 you're making a mistake, the QR key is not a "thin axle" so don't compare it with the thru-axle. The QR key is just used to press together the fork legs against the actual axle of the hub, that is the one that sits in the drop-outs and is 9mm thick
@@funnzie To put it in science-nerd terms, the QR rod bears no actual loads from anywhere but the tension load from the QR locking cam on one side, and the QR nut on the other. This tension supplies the compression force that holds the actual hub axle tight against the fork ends. The so-called quick release "axle" is basically just a not-very-stretchy rubber band pushing the fork ends together REALLY HARD.
The reason disc brake bikes use thru-axles (which aren't axles at all) is alignment during wheel installation, not stiffness. Disc brakes require very precise alignment to keep them from rubbing and through bolts have an alignment advantage over skewers, which is what you probably meant. An advantage in MTB applications is also that the wheel can not drop out if the clamping mechanism loosens during the ride. When the skewer is closed though, there isn't any difference in stiffness since both through axles and quick release skewers are only means of clamping the hub in between the fork legs and any load will be transmitted through the hub-fork friction interface, not the skewer or "through-axle". The wheel can not move with either system and if it does, you need to crank it down harder.
To expensive to maintain because in emergency situations quick release is compatible for any qr fork and frame, but thru axle is different not all axle is the same wide and size. IT IS NOT QUICK TO FIND REPLACEMENT IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS.
Sometimes old technology is better than new technology in maintenance issue old tech is simple like mechanical disk brakes vs hydraulic disk brake and qs vs tgru axle.
the skewer presses the dropouts to the hubs as the axles hold the fork up. thru axles have been around fo a long time adapted from motorcycles. this might be good for downhill\enduro. for light use skewrs are still the best option because really not everybody race so stiff is not an issue for these.
I really disagree with this video. It is not important at all that the through axle is thicker, because the axle doesnt take the load of the rider anyway. The load goes from the rim to the spokes throught the bearings into the dropouts from the fork. The quick release / through axle is necessery to clamp the whole system down, but its not a part of the way of the load. Its only about clamping force, and in that case is a quick release even better, because it can provide much greater clamping force than the througt axle, because you would have to overtighten it so badly, that you probably would were out the threads before you get to the point were the through axle is better. Peak torque has a great video were he explains this topic in detail.
Just don't do it. Actually many fox forks have detachable part with thread for this purpose so you can buy new one. As for the rear wheel, well you'll be screwed if you damage it.
Manufacturer: oh I’m so sorry to hear that, and frankly never heard anything like that and this is our first time. We are happy to guide you to another frame with a discount voucher.... Me: drill out the striped thread, install outboard locknuts.
QR, square taper BB, 26 inch wheels, double and triple chainrings, this good, old stuff still rocks, it's cheap and durable, it just works. Obviously it's a matter of opinion
It sure is. I upgraded my 26" MTB front axle to 15mm Thru-axle and the front end seems more crisp. The rear can't be helped as easily but I can live with a wandering, soft, drifty trailing suspension more easily than forks which refuse to stay on line, so I'm all good, just saying that in my case at least thru-axle is noticeably stiffer. On top of that it is harder to steal my front wheel. Security was my primary goal, but I found the thru-axle better to be better in terms of feeling planted up front. My 2009 TALAS forks are pretty harsh with stiction, so that may be a factor as well, the 'worst-case scenario' for a forgiving axle. I am still triple-chainring and happy! *fistbump*
The most important part imo is the fact that the force passed into the fork and down to the QR while breaking using disc breaks. It gradually can work itself loose. Doesn't uappen with mechanical breaks. For MTB, thru is necessary imo. Especially for more advanced riding.
Quick Release is very common widely used it’s not as safe as Thru Axles but it’s quick and easy, however if you have a disc bike with QRs it’s kinda annoying centring the callipers or the wheels on the dropouts with TAs on the other hand you don’t have this at all just pop on twist n done.
Through axles, according to Sheldon Brown, is great if you have disc brakes, because there have been cases where hard braking caused the wheel to come off with quick release. I consider through axles to be the love child of solid axles and quick release, with the best of both worlds.
Solid rod through closed loop forkends (some branded Thru Axle, Maxle, eThru etc) is here to stay for forks with disc brakes, the industry is moving away from QR for safety and for better disc fitting (minus the disc rub). New bikes without disc mount, are still with open end dropouts for QR or locknuts, that includes latest track bike that put so much attention to bikes’ rigidity and stiffness, but still stay with open end dropouts and no Thru Axle. So, while listen to what manufacturers (not referring to our dear blog host here) are marketing, compare to what they are doing is interesting.
None of the systems is acting as an actual axle. Both are just clamping the wheel to the actual axle of the hub. And if you are having issues with rubbing brakes and QR, just apply the brake while closing the clamp.
Well. It's better than ordinary quickrealease, but I would not say, that it can't move. It still can move a bit. With this type through axle, the stiffness depends on precision of which the axle and corresponding holes in wheel and fork are machined.. It's impossible to make it absolutely firm like that. If it was made so dight that it would not move, you would not be able to slide that axle through so quick and easy. You would need a mallet, or heat the fork and wheel up. There's a system where there are additional bolts on fork.. the fork eyelet is like a clamp, where u can clamp the axle firmly on, but that system is not quick. And I think it's only used on down hill bikes. And also I have only seen it on pictures. So I don't know how stiff even that is. The wheel probably still can move a tiny bit around axle, unless there's some additional system with nut and cones that would centers the wheel firmly on axle.
PS. Merida cyclocross 500 has the later type of through axle introduced in this video. The one combined with quick release lever. It has happened for me that after ride I discovered that the lever was not secured properly. One time it was very lose. And I did not notice anything.. Just that there was some rattling sound on gravel road and I could not figure out why it was making that sound. But it made me worried, since the axle's screw threads are clockwise. It gets opened on same direction as wheel spins. So if it's not closed properly. Maybe it can get even more lose and that can cause accident.
Yes I hope too, that I would notice. Though it scared me that I did ride it with lose axle not knowing when it did get lose.. It was lose few turns when I discovered it. Most likely I had left it lose by my self, being distracted with something else while screwing it on. I'm worried how it affected carbon fork. When it's lose the axle move a bit in the hole hitting against the walls that are just layer of epoxy and carbon in deeper. There looked like there might be some crack in top layer of epoxy inside of the hole, might start getting delaminated, but I'm not sure.. It have very little play so it can't hit too hard I think.. Well I have ridden like something over 2000 kilometers after that and I haven't noticed anything going bad. So I hope I was worried for nothing.. That I only saw the ghosts of non existing cracks. And yeah there isn't cure against absentmindedness and stupidity. Absolutely foolproof things don't exist. And I still do like through axle system. It was one of the reason why I bought Merida cyclocross 500. ^_^
I've had a few bad experiences with QR and disc brakes on my MTB. After removing wheels from the bike, I had to (almost) always readjust my calipers and brake pads. It drove me crazy. Also in one case when I bought some cheap QR levers, my front wheel was actually tilting during braking. I wasn't sure if I was imagining it or not, but when I pulled the pads out, they showed uneven wear. I swapped them immediately for Shimano ones.
Your problem is probably not the actual QR system, but loose or bad bearing in the hub (wheel). Just feel for any play in the bearing by applying some side force on the wheel by hand. It must not move.
Same problems here, my front wheel would even come loose on a few occasions. I hate the QR's so much because of this, I bought a new bike with thru axle instead.
Had my thru axles bike for 5 years. Haven’t true the wheels ever. My old skewers I had to true the wheels every year. My wife’s bike is the same deal. I’m not sure if this is related to the type of axle but I have a feeling it is.
With what power I should tight them up? I could not find any precise information about it. In DT SWISS guidebook it is written at least 15 nm of the power... Does it mean that I can use even 30 nm and nothing will happen to my carbon fork?
I think you need to do a course in basic mechanical engineering. The through axle and QR do not take any vertical load. They provide a horizontal clamping force. And to boot the QR provides more clamping force compared to the through axle. It can not make the wheel feel stiffer! If you were in my mechanical engineering class I would fail you.
I surprised the bike industry doesn't use thru axles more. It would be interesting to see a percentage from the major brands on which they are using. :)
No. You need a new bicycle that supports through axles. The through axles system needs to be implemented on the frame, fork, and hubs of the wheels. There is no way to convert unless you get a brand new bike that has it. Now, would you buy a brand new bike just for a new way to remove/install wheels? That's your decision to make.
hub and frame sizes are mostly the same but the through axle itself varies a ton. Different lengths, thread pitches, threaded lengths, clamping mechanisms... usually hard to source replacement thru axles.
A through axle has the weight of bike and rider on the threads. Every hard hit first goes through the threads then the frame. What happens when the bike ages and the threads become damaged...do we throw out a frame? Threads are not engineered to be weight bearing surfaces. Why didn't the engineers use a nut instead of a threaded fork and frame? With the nut the vehicle weight would NOT be supported by the thread. Horrible design with the potential for extremely high repair costs.
I understand what you are saying and agree with some of it however some frames have the rear hub end caps sit under a recess so the weight is not carried by the axle. Also, i think it would be very difficult to strip a M12 thread by hand. I have seen many bikes with replaceable inserts and others with steel threaded inserts which will last a long time. Also, if a frame did get damaged, the threads could likely be repaired with a heli-coil. Not saying that through axles are the best design by any means but i've yet to see one fail. The bigger issue i see is that many brands use different size through axles of different lengths with different length threads and pitches. Also manufacturers rarely publish the dimensions of their through axles. Sourcing a new axle a few years down the road could be near impossible.
@@thrjygdcmnbfdzfsa Bicycles from pre-2000 had interchangeable parts, just about any part would fit another bike, and all wheels were road or off-road 700c and 26inch. Today just getting the right sized stem to fit the handlebar and steer tube is a nightmare. Good 26 inch off road wheels are getting very difficult to find, these are the strongest wheels ever made, 4x stronger than a 700c road wheel. bottom brackets must be in the 100s now....I hate what technology has done to bikes, made them nearly impossible to find parts for because the manufacturers have to make so many variations of the same part now. Been riding disc brakes since they began putting them on bikes (around 2000) NEVER had any major problems with quick release hubs when mounting a wheel, you MUST put the final lock on the hub after the bike is on the ground supporting weight, then the axle will go back into the same place of the drop as before.
quick release are fine for rim brakes and can also handle the power of all professional cyclists. weight and speed are also better for racing bikes. if you are using disc brakes a thru axle has to be used due to single side braking forces as it has to prevent twisting in the frame.
Hi thru axle is probably more important on the front wheel due to forks. on the back you have seat stays and chain stays these will give strength to the rear wheel to prevent twisting from the strength you pit in when peddling. the forks don't have this inbuilt strength. also the front brake is the most effective at stopping you. imagine the power of you braking hard on the front brake your momentum wants to throw you over the handle bars but control that and you can stop faster than applying rear brake now remember all that twisting force because the brake is on one side.
Sorry, but all of your videos do never explain thoroughly the technical aspects you want to cover. You talk like a seller, no specifical explanation. I can see by myself why something more wide or light can be an improvement. QuickRelease vs ThruAxle do show differences under HARD stress, okay, but I am sure that great riders during the '90s or early 2000's, were running on solid performing bikes on QR without ThruAxle. I am pretty sure the differences in terms of stiffness and weight are there, but produce little effects on our riding sensations. Still are good feelings, of course, but a deep technical explanation would be appreciated.
So how about you create the kind of content you imagine and publish it? Instead of unfairly criticising a channel putting out good information for free.
This is scientific inaccurate. You just guess, like bigger is better. It's NOT. QR only needs to set up ONE force: giving tension from left to right. For this specific work a, like you called, “thin“ axle it is more than accurate. A wheel is NOT moving in QR. The whole wheel itself is tensioning in itself much more that any moment in QR. The only relevant point for screw axles are that they give stiffness to the fork! Especially as their 2 independent parts are fixed together on top but NOT at the bottom. This is what enhances the front-end, it's NOT the movement of the axle in the drop out.
So, if buying a new bike, thru axle should be bought if available? I'm debating between the Giant TCX SLR 2, Niner RLT 9 1 star, & Jamis Renegade Expat. TCX has front & rear thru axle, Renegade has front thru axle, Niner has QR.
One negative of QR is that if you have carbon dropouts and you change wheels often then you mist likely will wear out the inner part of the carbon dropout, now that will take time and tons of miles but it will happen. Once it does then u can either trash the frame or find a carbon builder to fix it. My Cervelo S5 has 10K miles and the inner part of the driver side dropout has huge indentations and I have noticed that the rear wheel no longer aligns correctly. I also know a bunch more of people with similar issues. My next bike for sure will be Thru Axle.
ideally carbon frames should have alloy inserts in the dropouts to avoid this. Most road bikes being released now have disc brakes and through axles anyways haha.
Indeed they removed the Lloyd patches, for cheaper construction, but uncharged nonetheless for the innovation. Later they saw the wear-out, we must remediate that
That's why you see so many pros having their wheels fall off in the peloton every few miles - oh wait, they don't. All road/trail forces on wheels are from downward weight, then braking force, and last, from rider pedalling, which only affects the rear. Extreme side loads from impact in MTB drops may add other vectors. The axle ends sit in the frame, with metal on 3/4 of the surface, and the QR only applies compression to hold the axle in place in the frame or fork. The QR never feels any primary load during riding. Shimano, Mavic and Campy make generally far better QR designs, but too many aftermarket QRs are too light, flimsy, have poor clamping leverage and security, which has led to the undeserved bad rap, not to mention the good old user error, of forgetting or failing to clamp with enough pressure to lock the QR in place. In 35 years of riding both road and MTB quick releases, from Slick Rock to White Rim to countless other trails, I've had zero failures. Big air jumps may need the large thru axles you're describing, but the QR itself is not the weak point.
If you put sideways load on the wheel you won't be on the bike for long. You would have to stay upright in a tight turn instead of leaning in which would result in crashing in the opposite side.
I want to build a weight-weenie like XC-rigid bike. if i really want to safe those last few grams, should i go with QR or thru axle? I really DON'T ride agressively, more like adventure MTBing and sometimes on flowy trails. I always owned a hardtail and found my recently bought full-suspension(120mm-120mm) a bit of an overkill and really inefficient on steeper climbs with 20%+ gradients. Comfort isn't all that important to me, since i want to be beaten by the bike and suffer a bit, doesn't make a lot of sense to me being treated like porecelaine during a workout. Though the stiffness might be nice for all out sprinting efforts and efficient from a mechanical standpoint, is it worth the extra weight? Haven't had any problems with my hardtail having disc-brakes(180mm-160mm rotors) and QR. EDITED: I'm the type that likes to safe weight. If i save 100-200g im gonna be happy
through axles are usually heavier but there are many factors at play. Like the exact frames, forks and hubs that you are comparing. Totally possible to have a TA bike be lighter than a bike with QR
people replying about "what if you damage the treads on thru axle you screwed"..lol..well..be big boys and girls and learn how to SLOWLY thread the axle in and you wont damage anything. IF you want to come up with some lame excuse,please dont use that one.
You are absolutely incorrect with the information you gave. Having a thru axel is not better and you are just jumping on the thru axel bandwagon. The axel isn't on your quick release. The axel is in the hub of your wheels which supports all the weight and pressure. The job of the quick release is the same, whether it's the old style QR and the new thru axel QR, which is to pinch the fork/frame together at the wheel hub. The science behind the technology is the same. You're just paying more for the new style thru axel release. I've had the regular quick release on my mtb's for over 20yrs and never once had it failed or broken off even with hard riding. If there was a problem with the original design of the QR, the engineers would never have put it out in the first place. Even so, regular QR have been around for a long time and have been used by many professional MTB and road bikers with no issues. Usually the issues is when people put on the QR incorrectly. Does the new thru axel give the impression that it's stiffer...yeah because it looks wide and thick. Does it look cool...yeah. But is it better, nope. Do I like the new thru axel QR... yes, but that's because It's just the new and cool thing and everyone wants it. Regardless they will probably phase out the old QR with the new style anyway.
I just bought a Devinci Leo 105 Disc road bike which uses the through axle system front and rear. I feel good about the security of it but wondered if there is any way of using the bike on my standard turbo trainer, designed to lock onto a QR skewer system ?
Ode like to ask I've a gt I drive ruckus 1.0 .what back 12mm spindle that matches the frame and rear hang out as they act like the locking bolt.ive just rebuilt one and have looked every where.my measurements are 12mm x 180 due to the shaft holes at the rear?please could you help asap as I really WANT to nail this bike.my last was stolen.done and gone.so finding out someone forced the last in and was wrong bolt.j got it out now do not want to mess up and revamp her ready for my son and me to hit snowden.
You seem to be under the impression that newer is better. While I can see a minor improvement from the new mounting system, it's not that big. What I really see is more opportunity for catastrophic failure. Everything is thinner and lighter in these new hubs and that's not always better.
Wrong. Just plain wrong. QRs are sufficient if you don't ride aggressively. At all. If you let your fingers off the brakes and your rubber off the ground, through axles are not only an advantage, they are a safety necessity. On QRs, I get crazy flex in the fork and frame, and I get broken axles.
A suspension frame can have cross frame torsional flex so I get the point . But claiming a QR flexes on a road frame somehow is nonsense talk . He doesn't understand the qr is not the axles dies he?
is the fact that the thread of the axle goes against the spinning of the wheel, doesn't that make it easier to unscrew while riding especially if there dirt or something in to make it rough and "grippy"
Can someone please help me. My bicycle doesn't have QR or a thru axle bexause i know what they look like, mine has bolts but i need to know the name of this type of setup. thank you
I still don't understand what are you using on the other side that the axle screws into ? I have the dropout fork. A Trek Madone road bike. So is this for mountain bikes that don't have the dropout forks ?
Another great vid Dan , can I get your opinion on ROSE The Uprising ? Seems like the cheapest XC bike with through axles at 1000 euro. also would you upgrade the forks to a reba/DT Swiss for around 50-60 euros or would you stick with recon gold ? Thanks in advance and greating from Malta:)
I'm an all around mountain biker. XC, Dirt jumping, Downhill, trail ect. I feel way more comfortable riding on a bike that has thru axels. Skewers feel so dainty now. Love the extra strength, rigidity and peace of mind.
Disadvantage of a through axle is if you damage/strip the threads on the frame or fork then you're screwed (no pun intended) and will need to buy a new frame or fork.
Quick release works great, if you have a moving wheel it means you did an installation error, i think you heavily over-exaggerated this whole matter, quick release simply allows for systems that the thru axles don't for example horizontal dropouts work great with quick release, do it right and you wont have problems, there is how ever drawbacks to the thru axle, it can in some cases get wedged badly, or even have the threads stripped in the, there is no ultimate better solution, it's subjective, the only time i ever had the quick release slip was when i pulled my rear wheel further back in the horizontal dropouts for better tire clearance, when pedaling hard i would encounter axle torque that shifted it slightly, the fix was to get a simple tug-nut, and sand down the paint a little to get more friction and never had issues again.
Unfortunately I have another video just making my point stronger. No data, no real life justifiers for a good lifelasting system like quick release. 29 years riding bikes and I have NO, ZERO, NADA issues with them and the practicality is really outstanding . That is just another method of ripping peoples pockets...bikes going as expansive as houses, DONT GET FOOLED.
should be tons around. maybe try searching by the size TA hub that you need, like 15x100 wheel, etc. Also you could try jenson usa or chain reaction cycles, merlin. Depends where you live
your proving nothing mate!nothing wrong with quick release.i know the thru axle, you have a confidence of stiffness but the tightening nut on the other side from the lever has teeth on it which grips in the drop out.whats the problem?
2:53 i have never liked quick release, but i am not a racer, hardly even a biker, i just commute, and quick release gets my wheel stolen. but it seems to hold the wheel just as well as bolts.
oh, and this standard doesn't fix my problem. bolts work great at stopping people from grabbing your front wheel quick. and that is what you gotta worry about because otherwise you lock the wheel with the bike, but for a quick stop, 10 or 15 minutes, ubolting the bike itself is plenty and whipping out the cable increases lockup time from 2-3 minutes to up to 10, i'm only gonna be at this place for 10-15 minutes, certainly am not going to double my time. quick is awesome for you sports types, this is my daily rider, call it my car, i have it insured because i literally cannot afford to replace it on the spot, and it only cost me in total about 1200 bucks. so for me, quickrelease of any type is worthless. i carry tools for a reason.
@@kght222 look into security skewers. some use special tools. i have seen other QR skewers that will only open when you turn the bike upside down. very smart design.
isnt the thin axle in the very center really just a part of the fastening ? certainly not a load bearing piece other than clamping the forks to the actual axle. whats the point of pointing out that its thin? doesnt seem like its an axle at all and should be called a bolt.
QR Is way more fragile. Even looks fragile, had a problem once bought the Halo QR Scewers and one side got loose and came off the dropout the wheel was holding on one side and I went OTB as fuck. Gladly I had a Full-Face Helmet.
For road bikes the through axles look slow and heavy. Maybe this can be improved over time. At this stage I'd stay with the quick release system. I never had issues with wheels moving in the drop outs as You made it look quite dramatic. For MTB's it's an improvement because of heavy unpredictable forces impacting on the wheels.
I don't know about heavy - the hubs could be lighter? Regarding slow: yes, if you have a mechanic running to you with a new wheel, you will be slower. If you have to stop on the road side and change the punctured tube yourself, it shouldn't matter.
Saying that quick release system is imperfect means nothing since no system is perfect. I've tried both, i felt no performance difference maybe because i am not a pro cyclist. And even pro cyclists have won tournaments using quick releases. Quick release systems are also more convenient when i load my bike inside my vehicle. I have never damaged a quick release system but if i ever do its parts will be easier to replace. They also cost less and some say Thru axles are a bit heavier. Maybe when Thru axle technology has matured as much as Quick Release and costs have come down to QR levels then i'd move over to them. In the meantime, i'll be riding my current bike "til the wheels fall off" (which would seem to be impossible if i had a Thru axle) 😉
Excellent video!I almost bought a road bike with disc brakes but decided against it. The main thing that held me back are the lack of a thru-axle standard. But if I were to upgrade or get a new bike in the future, I'd definitely get one with disc brakes. Hopefully by then there would be a TA standard.
i have to recommend you Focus bikes. their disc road bike are awesome and are all equipped with patented RAT through axles , which is probably best TA system out there. for me the biggest problem is lack of available disc specific road wheels with TA hubs, but i getting better and many manufacturers already have affordable wheel sets with TA.
You don't understand how quick releases and through axles work. Both are no axles, and the quick release provides more tension. The one stiffer than the other is of no importance. They don't carry any weight.
"Real upgrade for your bike does not necessarily mean buying more expensive components like Dura Ace instead of Ultegra..." Bro both of them are expensive to me lol
there is more strength with thru axle but your constant repeating of quick release wheels moving is rubbish they are solidly connected to the fork. The thin axle is all that is needed to secure as the endcaps are holding the hub in place. Very badly informed video
QR dropouts and hubs always have a bit of wiggle room. this varies between wear and manufacturing tolerances. through axle hubs/dropouts generally have tighter tolerances. powerful hydro disc brakes on MTBs with big grippy tyres can easily move a wheel out of alignment with the disc brake caliper.
QR is so weak, I even had my front wheel go loose with very hard braking (disc brake mtb). It's such garbage, I don't understand why we still have them on our bikes.
It’s just a pain in the ass to align the brake caliper every time I take out my wheel. The most annoying thing is when you hear the brakes rubbing when you put a lot of power down through the pedals or drive fast through a corner. This is just unnecessary. There is flex where it shouldn’t be. On a MTB a through axle is a must have...like a tapered head tube and a hollowtech bottom bracket. This needs to be standard!
Sorry your idea that wheels move with quick release is just wrong. They can't move because they are clamped tight. The only way that they can move is if you don't tighten the quick release enough. Or if you hit a solid object. Just rolling down the road there is very little force on your axels, it is just a bicycle not a motor cycle or car. Most of us tighten our quick release way too tight because it is human nature that too tight is better then too lose. The best thing about the solid axels is that your wheels are always centered perfectly and you can't do it wrong.
All Qr hubs and dropouts have some wiggle room. This depends on the manufacturing tolerances of the hub and dropout, as well as the amount of wear. Of course, wheels will stay in alignment just rolling down the road. But sprinting out of the saddle or using powerful disc brakes can easily pull the wheel out of alignment on some bikes, causing disc brake rub - not at all an issue on rim brake bikes.
QR isn't a axal , your axal is in the the is the big steal thing with a hole in it ,QR is more of a clamp like on tour seat post, theirs in-depth video by Peak Torque that shows the science and numbers ,and QR ibeen the best way for years so shouldn't be so easy dismissed,
Chinese Carbon Frame builder start to make it more available now. Check here www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/164.html Workswell now haveThrough Axle as an option to Quick-release. It is now getting complicate to order a frame as they also allow user to select brake style between one bolt rim brake, 2 bolt direct mount rim brake and disk brake.Then choices of BB type that you would like. (BB30,PF30,BB86,BSA). I was so tempted to order a BB30 throughAxle direct mount frame. But i don't like their plain bold black color with no graphics.
Both types only do one thing - provide clamping. Both don't take shearing load or act as the hub's axle and therefore don't affect stiffness other than clamping load. Both provide similar clamping amounts - the thinner QR is steel, the larger thru axle is aluminium. The screw in thru axles tend to actually provide _less_ clamping force! You'll only get slipping if it's not tight enough. Your point on the mounting point being repeatable when installing wheels with thru axles is valid though.
Consistency is key for disc wheel. Getting tired of disc rubbing on my quick release tbh
@@Hairyson-g5j I either put the wheel on when the bike's upside down or put weight on the bike, loosen then retighten the skewer and that works well
Absolutey your right....
4:20 you're making a mistake, the QR key is not a "thin axle" so don't compare it with the thru-axle. The QR key is just used to press together the fork legs against the actual axle of the hub, that is the one that sits in the drop-outs and is 9mm thick
@Nate Dog no, it is a long screw, not axle
@Nate Dog nah, but i can understand why they may look the same to you
@Nate Dog cute lil troll, no food for you here
Yes, a quick release skewer is not a load bearing device, just a lateral locking device.
@@funnzie To put it in science-nerd terms, the QR rod bears no actual loads from anywhere but the tension load from the QR locking cam on one side, and the QR nut on the other. This tension supplies the compression force that holds the actual hub axle tight against the fork ends. The so-called quick release "axle" is basically just a not-very-stretchy rubber band pushing the fork ends together REALLY HARD.
QR has been working perfectly fine for decades. I've never had one come loose on its own once it is properly secured.
It actually starts to cause any uses with disc brakes only. So if you have rim brakes it could be unclear why would you even need those axles.
The reason disc brake bikes use thru-axles (which aren't axles at all) is alignment during wheel installation, not stiffness. Disc brakes require very precise alignment to keep them from rubbing and through bolts have an alignment advantage over skewers, which is what you probably meant. An advantage in MTB applications is also that the wheel can not drop out if the clamping mechanism loosens during the ride.
When the skewer is closed though, there isn't any difference in stiffness since both through axles and quick release skewers are only means of clamping the hub in between the fork legs and any load will be transmitted through the hub-fork friction interface, not the skewer or "through-axle". The wheel can not move with either system and if it does, you need to crank it down harder.
Theorectically correct
The qr skewer isn’t an axle it’s a clamp
You are correct. It's main function is to clamp the frame dropouts against the locknuts of the hub. The QR skewer serves no other purpose than that.
To expensive to maintain because in emergency situations quick release is compatible for any qr fork and frame, but thru axle is different not all axle is the same wide and size. IT IS NOT QUICK TO FIND REPLACEMENT IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS.
Sometimes old technology is better than new technology in maintenance issue old tech is simple like mechanical disk brakes vs hydraulic disk brake and qs vs tgru axle.
the skewer presses the dropouts to the hubs as the axles hold the fork up. thru axles have been around fo a long time adapted from motorcycles. this might be good for downhill\enduro. for light use skewrs are still the best option because really not everybody race so stiff is not an issue for these.
But the QR is not holding the load...it's the axel that holds the load which is the same diameter as these TA, so hmm..just makes me wonder
If tighten properly, qr does not get loose. Also, lots of dropouts got an eyelet to assure it won't fall off
yes this is usually the case, however powerful hydro mtb brakes will easily shift a wheel out of place just enough to cause brake rub
I really disagree with this video.
It is not important at all that the through axle is thicker, because the axle doesnt take the load of the rider anyway.
The load goes from the rim to the spokes throught the bearings into the dropouts from the fork.
The quick release / through axle is necessery to clamp the whole system down, but its not a part of the way of the load.
Its only about clamping force, and in that case is a quick release even better, because it can provide much greater clamping force than the througt axle, because you would have to overtighten it so badly, that you probably would were out the threads before you get to the point were the through axle is better.
Peak torque has a great video were he explains this topic in detail.
You damage the thread on the fork,how you replace them? If you can't you are toast...
Just don't do it. Actually many fox forks have detachable part with thread for this purpose so you can buy new one. As for the rear wheel, well you'll be screwed if you damage it.
Paragon Machine Works makes rear dropouts with replaceable thread and front 12 mm road dropouts with non-replaceable thread.
Manufacturer: oh I’m so sorry to hear that, and frankly never heard anything like that and this is our first time. We are happy to guide you to another frame with a discount voucher....
Me: drill out the striped thread, install outboard locknuts.
I bet you could tap it.
@@aspenwagon04 that would suck security wise
Never had a problem with a QR in my life. I bet this guy wears spandex.
The advantages of quick released is compatible to any quick release fork, thru axle need exact size and not all axle the same size.
well almost. all front QR skewers are the same however the rear varies in length depending on road/mtb
QR, square taper BB, 26 inch wheels, double and triple chainrings, this good, old stuff still rocks, it's cheap and durable, it just works. Obviously it's a matter of opinion
It sure is. I upgraded my 26" MTB front axle to 15mm Thru-axle and the front end seems more crisp. The rear can't be helped as easily but I can live with a wandering, soft, drifty trailing suspension more easily than forks which refuse to stay on line, so I'm all good, just saying that in my case at least thru-axle is noticeably stiffer. On top of that it is harder to steal my front wheel. Security was my primary goal, but I found the thru-axle better to be better in terms of feeling planted up front. My 2009 TALAS forks are pretty harsh with stiction, so that may be a factor as well, the 'worst-case scenario' for a forgiving axle. I am still triple-chainring and happy! *fistbump*
Luca Librizzi saddened...no pissed that the industry dipped on 26". I do not and will not be a giant wheel convert. Stay strong brother.
Luca Librizzi pussy
The most important part imo is the fact that the force passed into the fork and down to the QR while breaking using disc breaks. It gradually can work itself loose. Doesn't uappen with mechanical breaks. For MTB, thru is necessary imo. Especially for more advanced riding.
whats wrong with classic solid axle?
Quick Release is very common widely used it’s not as safe as Thru Axles but it’s quick and easy, however if you have a disc bike with QRs it’s kinda annoying centring the callipers or the wheels on the dropouts with TAs on the other hand you don’t have this at all just pop on twist n done.
Through axles, according to Sheldon Brown, is great if you have disc brakes, because there have been cases where hard braking caused the wheel to come off with quick release. I consider through axles to be the love child of solid axles and quick release, with the best of both worlds.
For reference, here is the link talking about the dangers of disc brakes with quick release. bit.ly/2vWgyz4
Solid rod through closed loop forkends (some branded Thru Axle, Maxle, eThru etc) is here to stay for forks with disc brakes, the industry is moving away from QR for safety and for better disc fitting (minus the disc rub).
New bikes without disc mount, are still with open end dropouts for QR or locknuts, that includes latest track bike that put so much attention to bikes’ rigidity and stiffness, but still stay with open end dropouts and no Thru Axle.
So, while listen to what manufacturers (not referring to our dear blog host here) are marketing, compare to what they are doing is interesting.
If quick release will fail, you can replace it.
With through Axles you may need to replce whole fork.
The chances of them failing are very slim
What i want to know is. The durability of QR than thru axle by using in the trail or when u encounter a bump , what is good to use?
None of the systems is acting as an actual axle. Both are just clamping the wheel to the actual axle of the hub. And if you are having issues with rubbing brakes and QR, just apply the brake while closing the clamp.
Well. It's better than ordinary quickrealease, but I would not say, that it can't move. It still can move a bit. With this type through axle, the stiffness depends on precision of which the axle and corresponding holes in wheel and fork are machined.. It's impossible to make it absolutely firm like that. If it was made so dight that it would not move, you would not be able to slide that axle through so quick and easy. You would need a mallet, or heat the fork and wheel up.
There's a system where there are additional bolts on fork.. the fork eyelet is like a clamp, where u can clamp the axle firmly on, but that system is not quick. And I think it's only used on down hill bikes. And also I have only seen it on pictures. So I don't know how stiff even that is. The wheel probably still can move a tiny bit around axle, unless there's some additional system with nut and cones that would centers the wheel firmly on axle.
PS. Merida cyclocross 500 has the later type of through axle introduced in this video. The one combined with quick release lever. It has happened for me that after ride I discovered that the lever was not secured properly. One time it was very lose. And I did not notice anything.. Just that there was some rattling sound on gravel road and I could not figure out why it was making that sound. But it made me worried, since the axle's screw threads are clockwise. It gets opened on same direction as wheel spins. So if it's not closed properly. Maybe it can get even more lose and that can cause accident.
Yes I hope too, that I would notice. Though it scared me that I did ride it with lose axle not knowing when it did get lose.. It was lose few turns when I discovered it. Most likely I had left it lose by my self, being distracted with something else while screwing it on. I'm worried how it affected carbon fork. When it's lose the axle move a bit in the hole hitting against the walls that are just layer of epoxy and carbon in deeper.
There looked like there might be some crack in top layer of epoxy inside of the hole, might start getting delaminated, but I'm not sure.. It have very little play so it can't hit too hard I think..
Well I have ridden like something over 2000 kilometers after that and I haven't noticed anything going bad. So I hope I was worried for nothing.. That I only saw the ghosts of non existing cracks.
And yeah there isn't cure against absentmindedness and stupidity. Absolutely foolproof things don't exist.
And I still do like through axle system. It was one of the reason why I bought Merida cyclocross 500. ^_^
I've had a few bad experiences with QR and disc brakes on my MTB. After removing wheels from the bike, I had to (almost) always readjust my calipers and brake pads. It drove me crazy. Also in one case when I bought some cheap QR levers, my front wheel was actually tilting during braking. I wasn't sure if I was imagining it or not, but when I pulled the pads out, they showed uneven wear. I swapped them immediately for Shimano ones.
Your problem is probably not the actual QR system, but loose or bad bearing in the hub (wheel). Just feel for any play in the bearing by applying some side force on the wheel by hand. It must not move.
The last time I tried, they were ok, but I guess it's worth trying again, just to be sure.
Same problems here, my front wheel would even come loose on a few occasions. I hate the QR's so much because of this, I bought a new bike with thru axle instead.
Remarkably little data to support the inherent superiority of through axles over skewers. Dude’s feelings are a poor substitute.
Are the old ones safe they must be if they sell them with it on it
glad I made the switch. many of times I was riding fast downhill and all of a sudden my rear or front tire flies off! never again..
The landing had to hurt!
unogazzy84 did a somer salt crash and a minute to find my rear tire!
OUCH!
Really? Its a miracle ur still alive
Should I change over to a regular axle
Had my thru axles bike for 5 years. Haven’t true the wheels ever. My old skewers I had to true the wheels every year. My wife’s bike is the same deal. I’m not sure if this is related to the type of axle but I have a feeling it is.
Same here, wheels need truing because of QR garbage letting them come loose and warp with hard braking.
With what power I should tight them up? I could not find any precise information about it. In DT SWISS guidebook it is written at least 15 nm of the power... Does it mean that I can use even 30 nm and nothing will happen to my carbon fork?
15Nm should be fine. Hard to get a through axle that tight with just an allen key. dont force anything
I think you need to do a course in basic mechanical engineering. The through axle and QR do not take any vertical load. They provide a horizontal clamping force. And to boot the QR provides more clamping force compared to the through axle. It can not make the wheel feel stiffer! If you were in my mechanical engineering class I would fail you.
I surprised the bike industry doesn't use thru axles more. It would be interesting to see a percentage from the major brands on which they are using. :)
help please
can my drop out frame mountain bike can be converted to thru axle system..??????????
tok ling no
No. You need a new bicycle that supports through axles. The through axles system needs to be implemented on the frame, fork, and hubs of the wheels. There is no way to convert unless you get a brand new bike that has it. Now, would you buy a brand new bike just for a new way to remove/install wheels? That's your decision to make.
Is there any standardization of through-axles? Or do you have to buy your wheelsets with certain hubs to match your bike's axle system?
About as standardized as USB.
hub and frame sizes are mostly the same but the through axle itself varies a ton. Different lengths, thread pitches, threaded lengths, clamping mechanisms... usually hard to source replacement thru axles.
A through axle has the weight of bike and rider on the threads. Every hard hit first goes through the threads then the frame. What happens when the bike ages and the threads become damaged...do we throw out a frame? Threads are not engineered to be weight bearing surfaces. Why didn't the engineers use a nut instead of a threaded fork and frame? With the nut the vehicle weight would NOT be supported by the thread. Horrible design with the potential for extremely high repair costs.
I understand what you are saying and agree with some of it however some frames have the rear hub end caps sit under a recess so the weight is not carried by the axle. Also, i think it would be very difficult to strip a M12 thread by hand. I have seen many bikes with replaceable inserts and others with steel threaded inserts which will last a long time. Also, if a frame did get damaged, the threads could likely be repaired with a heli-coil. Not saying that through axles are the best design by any means but i've yet to see one fail. The bigger issue i see is that many brands use different size through axles of different lengths with different length threads and pitches. Also manufacturers rarely publish the dimensions of their through axles. Sourcing a new axle a few years down the road could be near impossible.
@@thrjygdcmnbfdzfsa Bicycles from pre-2000 had interchangeable parts, just about any part would fit another bike, and all wheels were road or off-road 700c and 26inch. Today just getting the right sized stem to fit the handlebar and steer tube is a nightmare. Good 26 inch off road wheels are getting very difficult to find, these are the strongest wheels ever made, 4x stronger than a 700c road wheel. bottom brackets must be in the 100s now....I hate what technology has done to bikes, made them nearly impossible to find parts for because the manufacturers have to make so many variations of the same part now. Been riding disc brakes since they began putting them on bikes (around 2000) NEVER had any major problems with quick release hubs when mounting a wheel, you MUST put the final lock on the hub after the bike is on the ground supporting weight, then the axle will go back into the same place of the drop as before.
quick release are fine for rim brakes and can also handle the power of all professional cyclists. weight and speed are also better for racing bikes. if you are using disc brakes a thru axle has to be used due to single side braking forces as it has to prevent twisting in the frame.
Hassle68 is thru axle equally important on the front wheel as the back? looking at a bike that has disk brakes but only had thru axle on the front.
Hi thru axle is probably more important on the front wheel due to forks. on the back you have seat stays and chain stays these will give strength to the rear wheel to prevent twisting from the strength you pit in when peddling. the forks don't have this inbuilt strength. also the front brake is the most effective at stopping you. imagine the power of you braking hard on the front brake your momentum wants to throw you over the handle bars but control that and you can stop faster than applying rear brake now remember all that twisting force because the brake is on one side.
ok can I convert my 9mm hub to a 15mm through ax (mtb) ?
Sorry, but all of your videos do never explain thoroughly the technical aspects you want to cover. You talk like a seller, no specifical explanation. I can see by myself why something more wide or light can be an improvement. QuickRelease vs ThruAxle do show differences under HARD stress, okay, but I am sure that great riders during the '90s or early 2000's, were running on solid performing bikes on QR without ThruAxle. I am pretty sure the differences in terms of stiffness and weight are there, but produce little effects on our riding sensations. Still are good feelings, of course, but a deep technical explanation would be appreciated.
So how about you create the kind of content you imagine and publish it? Instead of unfairly criticising a channel putting out good information for free.
Great video explanation mate. Keep up the great work with the channel.
which system is faster ??
Near the end you mentioned some adaptors to add some stiffness to qr systems, can you share a link or some names?
This is scientific inaccurate. You just guess, like bigger is better. It's NOT.
QR only needs to set up ONE force: giving tension from left to right. For this specific work a, like you called, “thin“ axle it is more than accurate. A wheel is NOT moving in QR. The whole wheel itself is tensioning in itself much more that any moment in QR.
The only relevant point for screw axles are that they give stiffness to the fork! Especially as their 2 independent parts are fixed together on top but NOT at the bottom. This is what enhances the front-end, it's NOT the movement of the axle in the drop out.
My Question Now Danny...
Most recent Bikes Like the Scott Scale went back from QR.
why?
So, if buying a new bike, thru axle should be bought if available?
I'm debating between the Giant TCX SLR 2, Niner RLT 9 1 star, & Jamis Renegade Expat.
TCX has front & rear thru axle, Renegade has front thru axle, Niner has QR.
yes for new bike but for most of us who still riding from 90s or 80s steeds ... qr is the only option I believe
Through axles are great, but there is nothing wrong with qr, the only problem I've had is when I catch the rear qr lever on a rock.
One negative of QR is that if you have carbon dropouts and you change wheels often then you mist likely will wear out the inner part of the carbon dropout, now that will take time and tons of miles but it will happen. Once it does then u can either trash the frame or find a carbon builder to fix it. My Cervelo S5 has 10K miles and the inner part of the driver side dropout has huge indentations and I have noticed that the rear wheel no longer aligns correctly. I also know a bunch more of people with similar issues. My next bike for sure will be Thru Axle.
ideally carbon frames should have alloy inserts in the dropouts to avoid this. Most road bikes being released now have disc brakes and through axles anyways haha.
Indeed they removed the Lloyd patches, for cheaper construction, but uncharged nonetheless for the innovation.
Later they saw the wear-out, we must remediate that
That's why you see so many pros having their wheels fall off in the peloton every few miles - oh wait, they don't. All road/trail forces on wheels are from downward weight, then braking force, and last, from rider pedalling, which only affects the rear. Extreme side loads from impact in MTB drops may add other vectors. The axle ends sit in the frame, with metal on 3/4 of the surface, and the QR only applies compression to hold the axle in place in the frame or fork. The QR never feels any primary load during riding. Shimano, Mavic and Campy make generally far better QR designs, but too many aftermarket QRs are too light, flimsy, have poor clamping leverage and security, which has led to the undeserved bad rap, not to mention the good old user error, of forgetting or failing to clamp with enough pressure to lock the QR in place. In 35 years of riding both road and MTB quick releases, from Slick Rock to White Rim to countless other trails, I've had zero failures. Big air jumps may need the large thru axles you're describing, but the QR itself is not the weak point.
If you put sideways load on the wheel you won't be on the bike for long. You would have to stay upright in a tight turn instead of leaning in which would result in crashing in the opposite side.
z1522 u must be so proud with 4 people agreeing with you bitch
do I have to buy a new bike couse I have a qr? Soon through axle will be imperfect and something new will. replace it.
how can I prevent the axle from bending? (when wheeling)
I want to build a weight-weenie like XC-rigid bike. if i really want to safe those last few grams, should i go with QR or thru axle? I really DON'T ride agressively, more like adventure MTBing and sometimes on flowy trails. I always owned a hardtail and found my recently bought full-suspension(120mm-120mm) a bit of an overkill and really inefficient on steeper climbs with 20%+ gradients. Comfort isn't all that important to me, since i want to be beaten by the bike and suffer a bit, doesn't make a lot of sense to me being treated like porecelaine during a workout. Though the stiffness might be nice for all out sprinting efforts and efficient from a mechanical standpoint, is it worth the extra weight? Haven't had any problems with my hardtail having disc-brakes(180mm-160mm rotors) and QR.
EDITED: I'm the type that likes to safe weight. If i save 100-200g im gonna be happy
through axles are usually heavier but there are many factors at play. Like the exact frames, forks and hubs that you are comparing. Totally possible to have a TA bike be lighter than a bike with QR
people replying about "what if you damage the treads on thru axle you screwed"..lol..well..be big boys and girls and learn how to SLOWLY thread the axle in and you wont damage anything. IF you want to come up with some lame excuse,please dont use that one.
Or use a QLoc. For most of the quick release ones you might as well, otherwise I want an allen key socket and some threadlock.
thru axles should come standard with disc wheel bikes. Otherwise brake rub and just plain noise will be a pain.
You are absolutely incorrect with the information you gave. Having a thru axel is not better and you are just jumping on the thru axel bandwagon.
The axel isn't on your quick release. The axel is in the hub of your wheels which supports all the weight and pressure. The job of the quick release is the same, whether it's the old style QR and the new thru axel QR, which is to pinch the fork/frame together at the wheel hub.
The science behind the technology is the same. You're just paying more for the new style thru axel release.
I've had the regular quick release on my mtb's for over 20yrs and never once had it failed or broken off even with hard riding. If there was a problem with the original design of the QR, the engineers would never have put it out in the first place.
Even so, regular QR have been around for a long time and have been used by many professional MTB and road bikers with no issues.
Usually the issues is when people put on the QR incorrectly.
Does the new thru axel give the impression that it's stiffer...yeah because it looks wide and thick. Does it look cool...yeah. But is it better, nope.
Do I like the new thru axel QR... yes, but that's because It's just the new and cool thing and everyone wants it.
Regardless they will probably phase out the old QR with the new style anyway.
I just bought a Devinci Leo 105 Disc road bike which uses the through axle system front and rear. I feel good about the security of it but wondered if there is any way of using the bike on my standard turbo trainer, designed to lock onto a QR skewer system ?
But is it as safe for ebike 32 mph
Ode like to ask I've a gt I drive ruckus 1.0 .what back 12mm spindle that matches the frame and rear hang out as they act like the locking bolt.ive just rebuilt one and have looked every where.my measurements are 12mm x 180 due to the shaft holes at the rear?please could you help asap as I really WANT to nail this bike.my last was stolen.done and gone.so finding out someone forced the last in and was wrong bolt.j got it out now do not want to mess up and revamp her ready for my son and me to hit snowden.
You seem to be under the impression that newer is better. While I can see a minor improvement from the new mounting system, it's not that big.
What I really see is more opportunity for catastrophic failure.
Everything is thinner and lighter in these new hubs and that's not always better.
QR is 100% sufficient and the thru-axle in most applications are over designed. Downhill racing might be the only discipline to benefit.
Wrong. Just plain wrong. QRs are sufficient if you don't ride aggressively. At all. If you let your fingers off the brakes and your rubber off the ground, through axles are not only an advantage, they are a safety necessity. On QRs, I get crazy flex in the fork and frame, and I get broken axles.
A suspension frame can have cross frame torsional flex so I get the point . But claiming a QR flexes on a road frame somehow is nonsense talk . He doesn't understand the qr is not the axles dies he?
is the fact that the thread of the axle goes against the spinning of the wheel, doesn't that make it easier to unscrew while riding especially if there dirt or something in to make it rough and "grippy"
Can someone please help me.
My bicycle doesn't have QR or a thru axle bexause i know what they look like, mine has bolts but i need to know the name of this type of setup. thank you
that is called a nutted axle. common on older and cheaper bikes. works very well though
I still don't understand what are you using on the other side that the axle screws into ? I have the dropout fork. A Trek Madone road bike. So is this for mountain bikes that don't have the dropout forks ?
The frames for thru axles are threaded he is basically saying buy a new bike
Another great vid Dan , can I get your opinion on ROSE The Uprising ? Seems like the cheapest XC bike with through axles at 1000 euro. also would you upgrade the forks to a reba/DT Swiss for around 50-60 euros or would you stick with recon gold ? Thanks in advance and greating from Malta:)
I'm an all around mountain biker. XC, Dirt jumping, Downhill, trail ect. I feel way more comfortable riding on a bike that has thru axels. Skewers feel so dainty now. Love the extra strength, rigidity and peace of mind.
Disadvantage of a through axle is if you damage/strip the threads on the frame or fork then you're screwed (no pun intended) and will need to buy a new frame or fork.
Before doing that, go to a bike shop and ask them to rethread the frame/fork.
Before you do that, just replace the captive nut.
Pibbles 'n Bits get rekt bitch
Quick release works great, if you have a moving wheel it means you did an installation error, i think you heavily over-exaggerated this whole matter, quick release simply allows for systems that the thru axles don't for example horizontal dropouts work great with quick release, do it right and you wont have problems, there is how ever drawbacks to the thru axle, it can in some cases get wedged badly, or even have the threads stripped in the, there is no ultimate better solution, it's subjective, the only time i ever had the quick release slip was when i pulled my rear wheel further back in the horizontal dropouts for better tire clearance, when pedaling hard i would encounter axle torque that shifted it slightly, the fix was to get a simple tug-nut, and sand down the paint a little to get more friction and never had issues again.
Unfortunately I have another video just making my point stronger. No data, no real life justifiers for a good lifelasting system like quick release. 29 years riding bikes and I have NO, ZERO, NADA issues with them and the practicality is really outstanding .
That is just another method of ripping peoples pockets...bikes going as expansive as houses, DONT GET FOOLED.
Can someone tell me where would I get a TA wheel? Can’t seem to find em on eBay/amazon.
should be tons around. maybe try searching by the size TA hub that you need, like 15x100 wheel, etc. Also you could try jenson usa or chain reaction cycles, merlin. Depends where you live
your proving nothing mate!nothing wrong with quick release.i know the thru axle, you have a confidence of stiffness but the tightening nut on the other side from the lever has teeth on it which grips in the drop out.whats the problem?
2:53 i have never liked quick release, but i am not a racer, hardly even a biker, i just commute, and quick release gets my wheel stolen. but it seems to hold the wheel just as well as bolts.
oh, and this standard doesn't fix my problem. bolts work great at stopping people from grabbing your front wheel quick. and that is what you gotta worry about because otherwise you lock the wheel with the bike, but for a quick stop, 10 or 15 minutes, ubolting the bike itself is plenty and whipping out the cable increases lockup time from 2-3 minutes to up to 10, i'm only gonna be at this place for 10-15 minutes, certainly am not going to double my time. quick is awesome for you sports types, this is my daily rider, call it my car, i have it insured because i literally cannot afford to replace it on the spot, and it only cost me in total about 1200 bucks. so for me, quickrelease of any type is worthless. i carry tools for a reason.
@@kght222 look into security skewers. some use special tools. i have seen other QR skewers that will only open when you turn the bike upside down. very smart design.
through axle is all stiff and all but my worry is the thread on the fork and frame...cross thread it and it's a goner.
Hard to cross thread since you insert the axle through the opposite hole and hub.
so what is wrong with a nut and wrench
Could you tell, does your Merida CX have thrue axle in the rear?
isnt the thin axle in the very center really just a part of the fastening ? certainly not a load bearing piece other than clamping the forks to the actual axle. whats the point of pointing out that its thin? doesnt seem like its an axle at all and should be called a bolt.
not to mention that it adds a little weight on the wheels :D
Great channel man!
ive never had a problem with quick release
mine too.
Through axles are stiffer, it feels pretty awesome
Quick release is just fine for most people.
QR Is way more fragile. Even looks fragile, had a problem once bought the Halo QR Scewers and one side got loose and came off the dropout the wheel was holding on one side and I went OTB as fuck. Gladly I had a Full-Face Helmet.
TechERni
Break a lot of QR hubs and skewers, do you?
Or are you just making bullshit statements about QR?
Please, can you do a review on these novatec hubs ? thank you
I will probably have some wheels on different Novatec hubs.
How to change normal skerus into qr skerus
On my Canyon mtb Trough axle in the front axle qr in the rear axle
For road bikes the through axles look slow and heavy. Maybe this can be improved over time. At this stage I'd stay with the quick release system. I never had issues with wheels moving in the drop outs as You made it look quite dramatic. For MTB's it's an improvement because of heavy unpredictable forces impacting on the wheels.
I don't know about heavy - the hubs could be lighter? Regarding slow: yes, if you have a mechanic running to you with a new wheel, you will be slower. If you have to stop on the road side and change the punctured tube yourself, it shouldn't matter.
Saying that quick release system is imperfect means nothing since no system is perfect.
I've tried both, i felt no performance difference maybe because i am not a pro cyclist. And even pro cyclists have won tournaments using quick releases. Quick release systems are also more convenient when i load my bike inside my vehicle. I have never damaged a quick release system but if i ever do its parts will be easier to replace. They also cost less and some say Thru axles are a bit heavier.
Maybe when Thru axle technology has matured as much as Quick Release and costs have come down to QR levels then i'd move over to them. In the meantime, i'll be riding my current bike "til the wheels fall off" (which would seem to be impossible if i had a Thru axle) 😉
They both hold your wheel on does nothing else to it. QR is solely a lock and the axle is in the hub.
Focus bike have R.A.T axle, it is a mix between trough and QR. Really really cleaver system, never had any problems.
Excellent video!I almost bought a road bike with disc brakes but decided against it. The main thing that held me back are the lack of a thru-axle standard. But if I were to upgrade or get a new bike in the future, I'd definitely get one with disc brakes. Hopefully by then there would be a TA standard.
i have to recommend you Focus bikes. their disc road bike are awesome and are all equipped with patented RAT through axles , which is probably best TA system out there.
for me the biggest problem is lack of available disc specific road wheels with TA hubs, but i getting better and many manufacturers already have affordable wheel sets with TA.
The through axle isnt actually an axle. The bearings dont ride on it. The benefit comes from uneven breaking forces being destributed better.
Yeah every year in PR you see riders jumping off and retightening their QRs! NOT
i have a 9mm quick release and now my front wheel is wobbling
Qr skewer is loose or hub is loose or time to true your wheel. dont blame the QR
Thru axle if you're a big heavy guy on a disc bike.
You don't understand how quick releases and through axles work. Both are no axles, and the quick release provides more tension. The one stiffer than the other is of no importance. They don't carry any weight.
"Real upgrade for your bike does not necessarily mean buying more expensive components like Dura Ace instead of Ultegra..."
Bro both of them are expensive to me lol
there is more strength with thru axle but your constant repeating of quick release wheels moving is rubbish they are solidly connected to the fork. The thin axle is all that is needed to secure as the endcaps are holding the hub in place. Very badly informed video
QR dropouts and hubs always have a bit of wiggle room. this varies between wear and manufacturing tolerances. through axle hubs/dropouts generally have tighter tolerances. powerful hydro disc brakes on MTBs with big grippy tyres can easily move a wheel out of alignment with the disc brake caliper.
QR is so weak, I even had my front wheel go loose with very hard braking (disc brake mtb). It's such garbage, I don't understand why we still have them on our bikes.
It’s just a pain in the ass to align the brake caliper every time I take out my wheel.
The most annoying thing is when you hear the brakes rubbing when you put a lot of power down through the pedals or drive fast through a corner.
This is just unnecessary.
There is flex where it shouldn’t be.
On a MTB a through axle is a must have...like a tapered head tube and a hollowtech bottom bracket.
This needs to be standard!
Sorry your idea that wheels move with quick release is just wrong. They can't move because they are clamped tight. The only way that they can move is if you don't tighten the quick release enough. Or if you hit a solid object. Just rolling down the road there is very little force on your axels, it is just a bicycle not a motor cycle or car. Most of us tighten our quick release way too tight because it is human nature that too tight is better then too lose.
The best thing about the solid axels is that your wheels are always centered perfectly and you can't do it wrong.
All Qr hubs and dropouts have some wiggle room. This depends on the manufacturing tolerances of the hub and dropout, as well as the amount of wear. Of course, wheels will stay in alignment just rolling down the road. But sprinting out of the saddle or using powerful disc brakes can easily pull the wheel out of alignment on some bikes, causing disc brake rub - not at all an issue on rim brake bikes.
I will definitely have this in mind for the future, thanks!
QR isn't a axal , your axal is in the the is the big steal thing with a hole in it ,QR is more of a clamp like on tour seat post, theirs in-depth video by Peak Torque that shows the science and numbers ,and QR ibeen the best way for years so shouldn't be so easy dismissed,
Chinese Carbon Frame builder start to make it more available now. Check here
www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/164.html
Workswell now haveThrough Axle as an option to Quick-release. It is now getting complicate to order a frame as they also allow user to select brake style between one bolt rim brake, 2 bolt direct mount rim brake and disk brake.Then choices of BB type that you would like. (BB30,PF30,BB86,BSA).
I was so tempted to order a BB30 throughAxle direct mount frame. But i don't like their plain bold black color with no graphics.
QR is an old antiquated system that was never very good.
Yes! I'm so tired of having my disc brakes scrub when taking my QR wheels on/off and then needing to fiddle with the alignment.