Hahaha :-) best comment. I was thinking exactly the same. The next step is we need a global wide intervention from governments that set one global standard (like the USB-C standard).
So why did I just watch a video on Peak Torque that stated that through axles are not axles and serve the same function as skewers, to clamp the axle (axle in the hub) to the dropout. According to PT the through axle should not Cary any vertical load. The load should be carried at the dropout through friction betweed the hub axle and dropout. He also stated they need to be tightened more than a small tool can do, therefore they are generally under tightened. Correct me if I understood it wrong but this video kinda contradicts that one.
30 seconds in... 1) Most through-axles are no more axles than are QRs. They perform the same job as a QR skewer: they clamp the wheel to the bike. 2) QRs do NOT simply "come loose". When properly tightened, a sufficient force must act upon the lever to overcome the cam-over. 3) Yes, QR skewers are flexible, but this isn't a negative. QR skewers, just like through-axles, exist to supply a clamping force. QR skewers must be strong in tension. Think of the vertical cables on a suspension bridge... Do we pooh-pooh those cables because they can flex? Should the cables be replaced with steel pipes? I'll probably never purchase a component from The Roberts Axle Project, thanks to the incorrect assertions, implicit and explicit, found in this video. Bike Rumor is now on my list organizations that can't be trusted to provide reliable information. Congratulations!
Thru axles don't always clamp the hub in place. Fox Float deliberately avoids clamping the hub, because if the hub is even slightly the wrong length for the forks (which may have tolerance variation from the standard 110mm) the fork friction and wear increase.
Great video, but few missing things noted : 1) do you lubricate them (axle itself and hub inside?) 2) how end nut is usually fixed to frame/fork - ex. Focus R.A.T. nuts vs others 3) how to prevent wheel theft with this new non-standard axles
Through axles aren't axles. They are compression bolts. Their job is to compress all.components together.The axles are inside the hub, within the bearings. If you pull out the bearings you will see what is really going on.
Good, I need to learn this because my son's bike has a quick release that can be set up as a thru axle, but the thread is different than my thru axles...I wish mountain bikes were simpler....
@@MTBMOR It is best to find your bike specs or consult your dealer. As a rule, in stores where bicycles are sold, there may be individual parts for them. This crazy variety of thickness sizes, lengths and thread pitch can be confusing to anyone.
Great brief and informative video. To the music haters, if you're looking for good real content, you can ignore the music for 5 minutes. If you're looking to be entertained, that's something else. My only comment: It's dumb to say QR skewer is less stiff as a thru axle! A QR skewer serves to clamp the hub between dropouts, not to provide support for the wheel when mounted. Enjoyed the video nevertheless. Thank you.
Great vid. Thanks. Question/observation- Old skewer hubs- the skewer goes through the axel. To remove axel u must remove the skewer and then axel locknuts. Most thru axels are same way. The thru axel is not the axel as there is an axel inside the hub that can be removed after removing the misnamed “thru axel”, no? So bike industry calling the thru axel an axel is same as calling skewer an axel. Si or no?
QRs do not come undone, unless you don't tighten them sufficiently - just like every other part of a bike. In 50 years and tens of thousands of miles riding bikes fitted with QRs I have never had a QR come loose. Also the stiffness of a QR skewer is completely irrelevant, they don't support the weight of the bike, because as you pointed out yourself, they're not axles.
Sorry I could only watch half of this because of the irritating loud music, I was trying to listen to what you said I never knew there was so many hubs and spindles, I will find out somewhere else
Excellent video; thank you! I’ve got a thru axle on my 2019 R5 with DT Swiss 1350 clinchers, and the skewer doesn’t stay right on either tire. Unreliable, as it loosens up on me. Not even bike technicians and bike fitters are able to make sense of the particular kind Cervelo decides to toss on there. It’s got to be a warranty item !?!
I have checked my front hub, and I saw some movement at the both end of the hub (right and left side). Is that means that my hub are broken? Since my bike is new
Please help, I have a mtb 29r with 1 of these axels only I was having a lot of trouble with mine and my derailer rats around and I couldn’t get my wheel off at all now at Saul’s on salty the Allen keys, just go round and round in it and can’t get my wheel off whatsoever. Any ideas how to get it off please?
Trying to learn if the thru axle system relies on one end threaded into fork (or in my case, custom single-sided setup). I want to thread my own drop-arm for a cargo trailer wheel axle, and can't tell if a 20mm thru axle must thread into the arm, or if the ~20mm of dimension thickness of my drop-arm is sufficient to cantilever support the axle and wheel. I would think that a tight machined fit is as good as a threaded fit, as far as the strength of the cantilever, and only the thickness of my drop-arm material really matters?
i used motorcyle axle 12mm solid bar for front wheel bike because i need the bolt nut lock on the other end. robert axle is lack of information & dimension layout of each of their products. i have marzocchi fork with 20mm i convert it into 12 axle bar so i need a lock on the other end, outside to outside fork dimension is 165mm
For the QR that never come loose that's good, I think people are more worried about them snapping HAHA from a 5+ foot drop. But also I think there's more stiffness, not that I like stiff.
Just got finally a mountain bike. It come with a thru axle. My quiestion is ( the rear axle treed doest go all the way in to the treed itself in the gear side of the frame before i cant tighten up the axle? It seems that i goes in only half the way... Is it normal?
I have a 20x110mm fork and uses thru axle but no lever or not quick release and I want to change it with the one with a lever for quick release access. Which or what thru axle should I go for? Can you guide me? Thanks for the vid.
is there some way to put 142mm thru axle rear hub to a none thru axle frame. being more especific, like adapting a skewer into a thru axle shimano xt 142mm 12 speed into a trek marlin.
If the dropouts are 10mm, that would require cutting, and that might weaken the frame significantly. Is there enough material to take out 1mm all around?
Thru axels took cycling technology backward, plus it made it more expensive. Do I choose complexity and proprietary sizes and threads, or do I choose standardization? If skewers are good enough for racing in the Tour de France or in Paris - Roubaix, then why have this change that doesn't offer any meaningfull advantage, only headaches.
Oof. When you realize thru axles are not axles either. They preform the exact same job as the quick releases minus the cams and forgo the replaceable nuts. They both compress the bicycle frame to the actual axles. Only advantage of thru axle is it stops rare wheel ejections on some dropouts with disk breaks when they were not tight. Much rather replace a nut then a frame if it gets cross threaded.
Again, so many negative comments on a UA-cam video, this video should be getting high praises for its very clear and informative information....you Haters, go find another outlet for your unhappiness in life, don't come to UA-cam and online feedback chats to vent, no one needs to hear it, and we all know who you are.
What happens when you damage or strip the thread in the frame? You mostly have to remove the wheel on the go due to punctures etc. where you’re in a world of stones, mud and grit. The potential for thread damage must be high.
The Industry 9 hubs shown here are very beautiful. Although I much prefer Chris King. They've been around longer. Lots of the info shown here I already knew. Unfortunately I've never ridden a thru axle bike. In all my years of riding, I've never ever had any problems with any quick release. My only concern is how quick release and thru axles affect disc brakes and there performance. Thanks.
Hi . I don't know much about bikes . But i wish to put two (2) wheels in front of a bike (folding or bmx) . Is there an axle that could make that possible ? Hoping for your kind reply . New on your channel . Liked & subscribed . God bless
Nice , as soon as I can justify changing my existing button though axles to something hand made And quality like the robert axle ,I will totally jump on that . Ask them to anodize other colours that may entice some people , I know I would be down for a blue one
Fantastic video logically and simply laid out, thumbs up from me. But it missed the biggest question of all. How do they work? what actually spins? how does an axel that seems to be going in easily without any friction like you showed, engage the pressed-on bearings on each end? Nobody shows this, everybody avoids it, I suspect is because nobody actually knows.
Because everything in cycling needs to be stiff. Unless you have a compliant carbon fibre frame. QR skewers were stiff enough, i.e. they must have been more compliant than thru axles. BTW does Eddy Merckx still have a bike factory? He could produce a range of bikes that have wheels with Thru Axels.
Sigh I just bought a frameset that uses thru-axles and am realizing from this video that I now own a bike using an immature technology. In twenty years if this bike needs a new hub, it might mean finding a machinist or scrapping the bike. Having initially gotten into bikes by tinkering with 35-year old 3-speeds (which I guess are now 50-year-old 3-speeds), that's a bummer :(
I think you'll be very lucky to find a hub to fit in ten years, let alone twenty. Especially if it's one of the proprietary "nearly-but-not-quite-boost" hubs like Trek's Boost141.
@@IanJones-ht3kk Sigh yeah. To an extent, all hub designs are ephemeral. My 1974 Raleigh Sports is running its original front hub for this reason (narrow spacing) even though it's in imperfect shape. The rear has been running a nice 120mm hub as a single-speed conversion for the last dozen years or so - which meant cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle. That said, 100mm OLD front hubs and 120/130/135mm OLD rear hubs of a plain (bolt-on or QR) design have had a very good run. I suspect those designs will have replacement part support for a long time. This other stuff...we'll see!
Checked out the website and nothing for an e bike it seems so I call BS on this video. I am looking everywhere for a rear axle for mine to upgrade my e bike to a 10 speed so I have less strain going uphill the problem is i am having trouble finding a solid axle with a 90mm bearing spacing . Quick release are dangerous on e-bikes and it looks like I will need to get the metal stock and either a machine shop willing to do the work at a reasonable price or get a lathe and do it myself.
When you finally find a "no BS video" that goes straight to the point without wanting to sell you 11 products before the ad spot comes, you realize it was A TRAP and get lobotomized by background music....
Peak Torque would like a word. They're not actually axles. They don't provide better clamping force than QR's and they are costly. Sure, they offer repeatable location for disc brake bikes, and are easier on carbon dropouts, but that's about it. The bike industry has successfully sold you something that is arguably inferior to a QR, is less expensive to manufacture, and costs the for consumer more to replace. And we eat it up because 'fatter must mean better'.
Isn't there a standards body somewhere that could stop the manufacturers from constantly coming up with all these "standards" for hub widths? It's a complete mess, even worse than the press-fit BB fiasco.
It's worrisome to know your understanding of Thru Axle is all about the rod with threaded end. What Thru Axle is, in my opinion: 1. It's spelt Thru Axle with uppercase on both words, as it is a marketing term, eg. 'S'ram 'F'orce. 2. Thru Axle is a SYSTEM consists of: - Forkends with complete circular hole of closed ends (no dropout on all latest models) and this is the primary requirement, - A modified QR hub with shorter axle (yes that's an axle) in pipe form with larger hole throughout (except one make), - A large diameter (12-20mm) rod with threaded end (of which you call it thru axle) forming inseparable structure consists of hub axle, fork, and this threaded rod, - With or without a QR 3. Thru Axle system is introduced with primary feature to have a skewer to go through closed ends on forks, to eliminate potential catastrophic wheel separations during unbalanced or lateral dynamic shock, particularly under influence of disc braking. 4. There were myth saying that Thru Axle system is to improve fork stiffness against flexural twist under influence of disc braking, but the effect is minimal. Thru Axle system couldn't resolve impact of fork twisting due to disc braking, as in disc rubbing and disc warping persists regardless. Disc rubbing has to be resolved by wider brake pads opening. No solution as yet for severe disc rub or jam that comes after disc warp. 5. Since this rod is taking up vertical shear load (shearline between inner surface of fork and hub bearings) in place of the short protruding axle on a QR hub, it needs a larger diameter compared to conventional skewer of 5mm-thick. At the same time a wider forkends is required for vertical load bearing. 6. Since it is larger in diameter, manufacturers opt to aluminum pipe, as it is easier to deal with, compared to steel, while attempting to keep weights down. 7. In order to achieve similar clamping force as what's on a QR hub, a high tightening torque is specified (eg. 10-15Nm-ish). 8. As pointed out by Peak Torque and i agree with him, it is close to impossible to achieve specified torque, without long spanners, 9. In my opinion, the main goal of Thru Axle is still accomplished (even with a lower tightening torque) because the main goal is to eliminate wheel separation (through closed ends on forks) due to possible human error of not doing QR up adequately on conventional forkends with dropout. 10. Therefore some manufacturers still introduce QR on Thru Axle system, knowing the QR does not provide clamping force as high as conventional QR with skewer, considering consistency and ease of use.
I love thru axles and in my own opinion it's better than quick release. The quick release is subject to theft,while thru axles truly not subject to wheel theft.
HAPPY Multi-Purchase Customer here - Great Products, Service & Support......BIG Plus = their website can walk you thru finding the right Axel too - no connection except for buying & using on several bikes
I was a little confused about thru-axles until I found this video. Now I'm completely confused. Thanks for that!
i love how this is not complicated at all. thanks bike manufacturer for giving us an easy 1 or maybe 2 axles to choose from.
50 seconds and the music has already driven me nuts
Wtf
I wish I could double like this comment. Totally agree. Author, pleaaaaaase bring the sound track down in volume
I made it to 0.45
Wtf yea
Nursery music
Good explanation but your music is far to loud so it is hard to hear what you are saying
I was thinking about going thru axle for my next bike. But good lord these are a worse headache than BB standards!
Hahaha :-) best comment. I was thinking exactly the same. The next step is we need a global wide intervention from governments that set one global standard (like the USB-C standard).
I was thinking the same thing, too :(
Everything you need to know about Thru Axles is that you don't need them.
It was really funny that you compared qr stiffness with thru axle
So why did I just watch a video on Peak Torque that stated that through axles are not axles and serve the same function as skewers, to clamp the axle (axle in the hub) to the dropout. According to PT the through axle should not Cary any vertical load. The load should be carried at the dropout through friction betweed the hub axle and dropout. He also stated they need to be tightened more than a small tool can do, therefore they are generally under tightened. Correct me if I understood it wrong but this video kinda contradicts that one.
One comes from an engineer and the other from marketing.
30 seconds in...
1) Most through-axles are no more axles than are QRs. They perform the same job as a QR skewer: they clamp the wheel to the bike.
2) QRs do NOT simply "come loose". When properly tightened, a sufficient force must act upon the lever to overcome the cam-over.
3) Yes, QR skewers are flexible, but this isn't a negative. QR skewers, just like through-axles, exist to supply a clamping force. QR skewers must be strong in tension. Think of the vertical cables on a suspension bridge... Do we pooh-pooh those cables because they can flex? Should the cables be replaced with steel pipes?
I'll probably never purchase a component from The Roberts Axle Project, thanks to the incorrect assertions, implicit and explicit, found in this video.
Bike Rumor is now on my list organizations that can't be trusted to provide reliable information. Congratulations!
Thru axles don't always clamp the hub in place. Fox Float deliberately avoids clamping the hub, because if the hub is even slightly the wrong length for the forks (which may have tolerance variation from the standard 110mm) the fork friction and wear increase.
Great video, but few missing things noted : 1) do you lubricate them (axle itself and hub inside?) 2) how end nut is usually fixed to frame/fork - ex. Focus R.A.T. nuts vs others 3) how to prevent wheel theft with this new non-standard axles
awesome visuals to show the real objects being described...thanks for the comprehensive intro to thru axles
So many sizes! That's crazy!
Thank you. Just bought my first boosted bike. I needed to hear this info. Good job.
Never had a quick release come loose on me.
Thanks. Slightly less confusing now.
Nice video. What an inventory nightmare for bike shops. Life was simple(r) in the 1970s.
Second only to bottom brackets for insane number of ways to perform a simple function.
Through axles aren't axles. They are compression bolts. Their job is to compress all.components together.The axles are inside the hub, within the bearings. If you pull out the bearings you will see what is really going on.
What a really great informative video! Well done RAP.👍🏻
Good, I need to learn this because my son's bike has a quick release that can be set up as a thru axle, but the thread is different than my thru axles...I wish mountain bikes were simpler....
After watching this, I think I'm screwed...
@@MTBMOR It is best to find your bike specs or consult your dealer. As a rule, in stores where bicycles are sold, there may be individual parts for them. This crazy variety of thickness sizes, lengths and thread pitch can be confusing to anyone.
Great brief and informative video. To the music haters, if you're looking for good real content, you can ignore the music for 5 minutes. If you're looking to be entertained, that's something else. My only comment: It's dumb to say QR skewer is less stiff as a thru axle! A QR skewer serves to clamp the hub between dropouts, not to provide support for the wheel when mounted. Enjoyed the video nevertheless. Thank you.
This is exactly how an informative tutorial video should be done. Concise, precise. Watch n learn people. And thanx for posting
There should be an explanation of what is the benefit of those, as I did not get the idea.
Honestly I disagree, this was a pretty bad video
Except that the content is misleading at best. Through axles are almost the actual axle; the hub shell is.
Great vid. Thanks. Question/observation- Old skewer hubs- the skewer goes through the axel. To remove axel u must remove the skewer and then axel locknuts. Most thru axels are same way. The thru axel is not the axel as there is an axel inside the hub that can be removed after removing the misnamed “thru axel”, no? So bike industry calling the thru axel an axel is same as calling skewer an axel. Si or no?
QRs do not come undone, unless you don't tighten them sufficiently - just like every other part of a bike. In 50 years and tens of thousands of miles riding bikes fitted with QRs I have never had a QR come loose. Also the stiffness of a QR skewer is completely irrelevant, they don't support the weight of the bike, because as you pointed out yourself, they're not axles.
Far and away most through "axles" are not actually axles, just like QR skewers. The hub shell is the actual axle in almost every case.
Sorry I could only watch half of this because of the irritating loud music, I was trying to listen to what you said I never knew there was so many hubs and spindles, I will find out somewhere else
crazy music and non stop numbers make it hard to follow a bit!
Good vídeo... But please no music...it's hard to understand what you saying.
It helps to have crappy speakers.
i use a DT swiss RWS quick release it will never come loose
Is there an adapter for 15mm through axles that make it possible to run a skewer through the through hub?
I have a gravel bike.... can I use it on the bike trainer with the skewer that comes with the trainer? Or will I damage my bike?
Hi brother ineed Axel vtt Cube réaction c62 pro but idont know correct référence 😢 for roue arrière
Excellent video; thank you!
I’ve got a thru axle on my 2019 R5 with DT Swiss 1350 clinchers, and the skewer doesn’t stay right on either tire. Unreliable, as it loosens up on me. Not even bike technicians and bike fitters are able to make sense of the particular kind Cervelo decides to toss on there. It’s got to be a warranty item !?!
I have checked my front hub, and I saw some movement at the both end of the hub (right and left side). Is that means that my hub are broken? Since my bike is new
Please help, I have a mtb 29r with 1 of these axels only I was having a lot of trouble with mine and my derailer rats around and I couldn’t get my wheel off at all now at Saul’s on salty the Allen keys, just go round and round in it and can’t get my wheel off whatsoever. Any ideas how to get it off please?
My bike 2015 norco indie 4 my wheel got stolen I pick up some cannodale topstone 4 wheels which ones should I get .
my current rear thru axle is 172mm. Is there a problem if I order a 173mm one? The shop doesn't have 172mm. (the rest of the specs are the same)
Can i use a 1.0 thread pitch on my 1.2 ?
Can't remember the last time I saw a QR come loose, mind, I've only been racing for 40 years 😂
Trying to learn if the thru axle system relies on one end threaded into fork (or in my case, custom single-sided setup). I want to thread my own drop-arm for a cargo trailer wheel axle, and can't tell if a 20mm thru axle must thread into the arm, or if the ~20mm of dimension thickness of my drop-arm is sufficient to cantilever support the axle and wheel. I would think that a tight machined fit is as good as a threaded fit, as far as the strength of the cantilever, and only the thickness of my drop-arm material really matters?
i used motorcyle axle 12mm solid bar for front wheel bike because i need the bolt nut lock on the other end. robert axle is lack of information & dimension layout of each of their products. i have marzocchi fork with 20mm i convert it into 12 axle bar so i need a lock on the other end, outside to outside fork dimension is 165mm
I have a Niner RLT 9 and I loose the front thru axle washer. Can you help? I'm from Brazil and just can'tfind any help in Niner Brazil. Thanks.
For the QR that never come loose that's good, I think people are more worried about them snapping HAHA from a 5+ foot drop.
But also I think there's more stiffness, not that I like stiff.
What is the name of the pice in your right hand at 3:46? I lost this while taking my bike off of my roof rack. Thank you
Just got finally a mountain bike. It come with a thru axle. My quiestion is ( the rear axle treed doest go all the way in to the treed itself in the gear side of the frame before i cant tighten up the axle? It seems that i goes in only half the way... Is it normal?
do you need to grease them?
Help I need to find 15x160mm thru axle for my front fork😅
I have a 20x110mm fork and uses thru axle but no lever or not quick release and I want to change it with the one with a lever for quick release access. Which or what thru axle should I go for? Can you guide me? Thanks for the vid.
I have a Syncros Axle w/Removable Lever with Tool on my scott 910 but the back tirer wont come loose help please
Thru Axles with adapter's for child carrier is missing and how to choose right one.
Excellent video. Thank you!
Hi, Do you know what size fits for Trinx M100 Elite 2021? I am planning to convert it to Thru Axle.
how to unscrew the rear wheel on cube reaction race 2019
is there some way to put 142mm thru axle rear hub to a none thru axle frame. being more especific, like adapting a skewer into a thru axle shimano xt 142mm 12 speed into a trek marlin.
If the dropouts are 10mm, that would require cutting, and that might weaken the frame significantly. Is there enough material to take out 1mm all around?
Nice hub collection :)
Thru axels took cycling technology backward, plus it made it more expensive.
Do I choose complexity and proprietary sizes and threads, or do I choose standardization?
If skewers are good enough for racing in the Tour de France or in Paris - Roubaix, then why have this change that doesn't offer any meaningfull advantage, only headaches.
Was there an older standard for 135mm rear? Like a 12 by 135 spacing? I'm looking at an older frame on ebay that mentions it has that.
Oof. When you realize thru axles are not axles either. They preform the exact same job as the quick releases minus the cams and forgo the replaceable nuts. They both compress the bicycle frame to the actual axles. Only advantage of thru axle is it stops rare wheel ejections on some dropouts with disk breaks when they were not tight.
Much rather replace a nut then a frame if it gets cross threaded.
Can I change my axle so I can put my bike trailer? Its was a QR
Again, so many negative comments on a UA-cam video, this video should be getting high praises for its very clear and informative information....you Haters, go find another outlet for your unhappiness in life, don't come to UA-cam and online feedback chats to vent, no one needs to hear it, and we all know who you are.
Lovely and useful video😊
Have u guys heard about raceit thru axle for rockshox do u know if there reliable?
How wide of a tire on at front thruaxle, non-boost?
What happens when you damage or strip the thread in the frame? You mostly have to remove the wheel on the go due to punctures etc. where you’re in a world of stones, mud and grit. The potential for thread damage must be high.
Quick Release have threads too.
@@MR-backup on the skewer yes, but not in the frame of the actual bike where permanent damage to the bike could be done.
@@mariog4707 It's not permanent since there are remedies for stripped internal threads.
@@MR-backup you are correct of course - stripped frame threads can be re-engineered👍
The Industry 9 hubs shown here are very beautiful. Although I much prefer Chris King. They've been around longer. Lots of the info shown here I already knew. Unfortunately I've never ridden a thru axle bike. In all my years of riding, I've never ever had any problems with any quick release. My only concern is how quick release and thru axles affect disc brakes and there performance. Thanks.
how to order from philippines
I have a 15x100 hub and am looking at a new fork that is 15QRx100. Will that fit?
...great video by the way
All I wanted to know was which size hub nuts to buy for my track bike... Now I'm totally confused 😂😂😂
Hi . I don't know much about bikes . But i wish to put two (2) wheels in front of a bike (folding or bmx) . Is there an axle that could make that possible ? Hoping for your kind reply . New on your channel . Liked & subscribed . God bless
Carbon Thru Axles Safe?
Nice , as soon as I can justify changing my existing button though axles to something hand made And quality like the robert axle ,I will totally jump on that . Ask them to anodize other colours that may entice some people , I know I would be down for a blue one
this video is just a flex to have over $1k on hubs only laying around.
jokes aside, good video, although increasing standards are driving me nuts
Fantastic video logically and simply laid out, thumbs up from me. But it missed the biggest question of all. How do they work? what actually spins? how does an axel that seems to be going in easily without any friction like you showed, engage the pressed-on bearings on each end? Nobody shows this, everybody avoids it, I suspect is because nobody actually knows.
great video/ but scratch the music😁
Why do skewers need to be stiff? They're only meant to tighten the hub to the dropouts? They're not the actual axle.
Because everything in cycling needs to be stiff. Unless you have a compliant carbon fibre frame. QR skewers were stiff enough, i.e. they must have been more compliant than thru axles.
BTW does Eddy Merckx still have a bike factory? He could produce a range of bikes that have wheels with Thru Axels.
Sigh I just bought a frameset that uses thru-axles and am realizing from this video that I now own a bike using an immature technology. In twenty years if this bike needs a new hub, it might mean finding a machinist or scrapping the bike. Having initially gotten into bikes by tinkering with 35-year old 3-speeds (which I guess are now 50-year-old 3-speeds), that's a bummer :(
I think you'll be very lucky to find a hub to fit in ten years, let alone twenty. Especially if it's one of the proprietary "nearly-but-not-quite-boost" hubs like Trek's Boost141.
@@IanJones-ht3kk Sigh yeah.
To an extent, all hub designs are ephemeral. My 1974 Raleigh Sports is running its original front hub for this reason (narrow spacing) even though it's in imperfect shape. The rear has been running a nice 120mm hub as a single-speed conversion for the last dozen years or so - which meant cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle.
That said, 100mm OLD front hubs and 120/130/135mm OLD rear hubs of a plain (bolt-on or QR) design have had a very good run. I suspect those designs will have replacement part support for a long time. This other stuff...we'll see!
i use M12*185L
Bro still i cant figure the correct TA in my bike
Checked out the website and nothing for an e bike it seems so I call BS on this video. I am looking everywhere for a rear axle for mine to upgrade my e bike to a 10 speed so I have less strain going uphill the problem is i am having trouble finding a solid axle with a 90mm bearing spacing . Quick release are dangerous on e-bikes and it looks like I will need to get the metal stock and either a machine shop willing to do the work at a reasonable price or get a lathe and do it myself.
Unless you have a Mongoose or a Schwinn
the music is too loud
When you finally find a "no BS video" that goes straight to the point without wanting to sell you 11 products before the ad spot comes, you realize it was A TRAP and get lobotomized by background music....
I just wanted to know how much Nm I need to apply, nobody is telling me, the manufacturer don’t say shit and the axle hasn’t a print on it….
what about e-thru
Good video. Terrible music. Why is it even there?
Why does this useful video have a silly tune playing in the background? Got about 1/3 the way through and had to stop.
Good video, but music is too loud and distracting
Great video, but who's Robert?
"the Robert Axle project" started when some rad dudes wanted to carry BOB trailers on their mountain bikes. Bob/robert... fancy!
Peak Torque would like a word. They're not actually axles. They don't provide better clamping force than QR's and they are costly. Sure, they offer repeatable location for disc brake bikes, and are easier on carbon dropouts, but that's about it. The bike industry has successfully sold you something that is arguably inferior to a QR, is less expensive to manufacture, and costs the for consumer more to replace. And we eat it up because 'fatter must mean better'.
I am just thankful that this not in inches
Nice
Why does the music have to be so LOUD, NIGH ON DEAFENING!
Isn't there a standards body somewhere that could stop the manufacturers from constantly coming up with all these "standards" for hub widths? It's a complete mess, even worse than the press-fit BB fiasco.
This music makes me want to steal an iphone
It's worrisome to know your understanding of Thru Axle is all about the rod with threaded end.
What Thru Axle is, in my opinion:
1. It's spelt Thru Axle with uppercase on both words, as it is a marketing term, eg. 'S'ram 'F'orce.
2. Thru Axle is a SYSTEM consists of:
- Forkends with complete circular hole of closed ends (no dropout on all latest models) and this is the primary requirement,
- A modified QR hub with shorter axle (yes that's an axle) in pipe form with larger hole throughout (except one make),
- A large diameter (12-20mm) rod with threaded end (of which you call it thru axle) forming inseparable structure consists of hub axle, fork, and this threaded rod,
- With or without a QR
3. Thru Axle system is introduced with primary feature to have a skewer to go through closed ends on forks, to eliminate potential catastrophic wheel separations during unbalanced or lateral dynamic shock, particularly under influence of disc braking.
4. There were myth saying that Thru Axle system is to improve fork stiffness against flexural twist under influence of disc braking, but the effect is minimal. Thru Axle system couldn't resolve impact of fork twisting due to disc braking, as in disc rubbing and disc warping persists regardless. Disc rubbing has to be resolved by wider brake pads opening. No solution as yet for severe disc rub or jam that comes after disc warp.
5. Since this rod is taking up vertical shear load (shearline between inner surface of fork and hub bearings) in place of the short protruding axle on a QR hub, it needs a larger diameter compared to conventional skewer of 5mm-thick. At the same time a wider forkends is required for vertical load bearing.
6. Since it is larger in diameter, manufacturers opt to aluminum pipe, as it is easier to deal with, compared to steel, while attempting to keep weights down.
7. In order to achieve similar clamping force as what's on a QR hub, a high tightening torque is specified (eg. 10-15Nm-ish).
8. As pointed out by Peak Torque and i agree with him, it is close to impossible to achieve specified torque, without long spanners,
9. In my opinion, the main goal of Thru Axle is still accomplished (even with a lower tightening torque) because the main goal is to eliminate wheel separation (through closed ends on forks) due to possible human error of not doing QR up adequately on conventional forkends with dropout.
10. Therefore some manufacturers still introduce QR on Thru Axle system, knowing the QR does not provide clamping force as high as conventional QR with skewer, considering consistency and ease of use.
I love thru axles and in my own opinion it's better than quick release. The quick release is subject to theft,while thru axles truly not subject to wheel theft.
Let me save you the time. There are a ton of different axel lengths and widths …your welcome
Everything you need to know except what they’re made out of
99.9999% of times, thru axles aren’t actual axles either
HAPPY Multi-Purchase Customer here - Great Products, Service & Support......BIG Plus = their website can walk you thru finding the right Axel too - no connection except for buying & using on several bikes
A visualisation of the different lengths would be better, because of the loud background sound your voice is hardly comprehensible,
With all said what are the dimemsions ? None