When is comes to installing of tubes, I have always used a little baby power to lightly coat the inside of the tire and the tube itself. Then I continue with inflating a little at a time while squeezing the side walls to let the tube find its position. The powder aids in the tube finding its position, by lessening friction inside the tire
Been working on motorcycles for years, where you have the same problem with chains, but a trick I use is to use diesel to dip and deep clean the chains. Diesel is a great degreaser but will not damage the little rubber seals inside the chain links. It actually prevents them from drying out and it lasts even longer than normal. Then just clean and oil as usual. I've never found a better way or a better product than simple normal diesel.
Here"s a great tip for all! If you look at the inside or your tire you can usually see where the tire manufacturer matches up the rubber and bonds it together making a seam to complete the tire, make sure that seam doesnt line up with the welded seam of your rim when you mount it because thats where you will most likely have a natural wobble on each that you cant get rid of so id say put the the tire seam at the valve hole cuz the exactly opposite of the rim seam
Fantastic video, very informative. I work as a technician in a high end bike shop and all of those things are basic assembly procedures for our bikes. There is however one thing that was not mentioned that we do, and this applies to non sealed bearing hubs only. Every wheel assembled in Taiwan (and probably elsewhere), does not have the correct bearing preload in the hub. It's important to use a 13 or 15 mm cone wrench and a 17mm wrench to adjust the hub bearing load so you are not causing premature wear.
Fantastic video, that Marin's a pretty unique setup! Tri-bars with disc brakes, big tyres and a 1x drivetrain. Most comfortable time trial trainer ever! Must try it myself XD
Agree on all tips. I would add that when you're checking bolt tightness it's better to test by trying (slightly) to loosen the bolt, as opposed to tighten. Especially when dealing with carbon material. Like you said, but inverse. Don't loosen the bolt, just test it.
Thank you so much! I have just ordered a new bike online, and am waiting its arrival. This video is perfect for me right now! I am watching some of your other videos as well, because I am getting my very first bike with gears! Thanks you so much for all the help! :D
I think everything you're saying is true and you make very good points. Especially the part about making sure ALL nuts and bolts are checked for tightness. I have not yet found a bicycle that did not have something loose on it.
Great vid!! I purchased a hard tail Cannondale from my local shop & the wheels have never been true. The last tip is awesome as well. My cables real did a number on the base of my fork & along side the headtube.
I've been turning wrenches for 40 years. I'd say the #1 thing that gets overlooked on new bikes is bearing adjustment. 99% of new bikes come with the wheel bearings too tight out of the box, and I dare say most mechanics do not bother to adjust them. #2 is the pedals and or crank arms not being tightened properly. So many relatively new bikes come back with stripped out crank arms because they weren't secure in the first place. This doesn't occur often with bikes that come from independent bike shops, but is very common with department store bikes, or bikes purchased online and assembled by the owner.
picked up a fat tire mongoose a Kmart.....the only reason was....it was way marked down, and I won a $100 to spend there....I had heard and seen some videos about D/Store bikes being thrown together.....damned glad I took it to a bike shop in a neighboring town....he used to be a pro rider....he said the same deal......check everything....it looks new, but you don't know who put the thing together...he charges $35-50, depending on how crappy they are put together.....my full suspension bike is Alum. Frame, and they take more maintenance....more moving parts....in Montana, we ride in summer/fall mostly, but he said ya even need to look them over before you jump back on them.....I wiped out once on a store bike years ago....when I went to turn, the handlebars were loose (stem?) and the wheel went right, and I went over....ya never know....this guy's kinda hard to understand (but so am I....damned southern accent) but he is right.........thanks for the video dude.....
great points!...wish I had found this earlier...sticky chain caused me to begin searching for front derailure issue. When shifting to the smallest chainring the chain stuck to the chainring throwing the chain in between the chain ring and the chainstay...again thinking the limit adjustment was off. Anyway, your suggestions gave me the insight to look elsewhere...problem solved! thank you.
I go a lot further than that with a new bike. 1. Change to new cables or at least take them out and grease them. 2. Checking grease in wheel, bottom bracket, steer tube and if needed put new grease. 3. All bolts off and give grease, especialy those holding the brakes and chainrings ( you will thank yourself for that later!). 4. Off with tyre and tube and assemble again, maybe get new and better tyres. 5. Preferable new and better brake pads. Brakes are your safety for slowing down and stopping, not a place to save few bucks. 6. Never use degreaser or soap when cleaning your bike unless you have everything taken apart and assemble it again with new grease and oil. - Why I am making such an effort???.....because its often I go faster than 50 km/h and if you have done your bike nicely, your safety is better. - Nothing worse than going downhill with 60 -70 km/h and your brake cable snap, or your brake pads are the cheap ones not making you stop quickly enough - After around 4500 km you will need to change your chainrings, if you just have left them without grease, they can be seriously hard to get off at that time. Grease are often not used on bolts from factory when put together. - If you dont know how to do these things, learn it. Its really well worth knowing to fix your bike no matter what it is. Will save you a lot of money in the long run, you will better be able to fix your bike if you are far from home and have a defect. If you do things correctly, the bike will be a lot more safe for you to ride, else you really have to trust your local bike shop. Many do a really good job, but also exprienced many doing a horrible job fixing other peoples bikes. - A well mantained bike for better safety on the road.! ( Was taught to do these things when i was kid back in the late 70's and have since been riding around 250.000 km and never had any issues what so ever). Wish you all some wonderful and safe rides.!!! Cheers
Forgot to mention the sadlepin, take it up and put grease on it and put it back. After some months it can be seriously hard to get off again. Grease is your friend on a bike, espcially here in Denmark with the salt in the humid as we are always near the ocean no matter where we are in the country. ;) Alu alloys tend to kind of grow together, the reason the use of grease. :)
Kim Lodrö Dawa wow. awesome advice. thank you. I am planning to get a new bike soon and I'm not sure I can even do all these manuvers. maybe you do a quick video on the whole process when you get your next bike or rebuild a bike. that would be awesome.
choski76 - Not sure I will be able to do that. Dont have a cam and will not be able to afford one for at least next 4 months. Also already many good videos out there. RJ The Bike Guy is good for especially people with older bikes. But bikes are fairly simple, so it shouldnt take you long to learn. Most things are logic and easy. Building a wheel and fixing bearings can be little tricky though and takes some skills. Also you need the right tools which also is little costly, but is a one time investment. Good quality tool is needed though as bad quality tools can ruin your bolts etc. Also it takes time, so if you only have little time available its better to pay someone for doing it for you unless you have a good friend who knows about it. Do it nice and take the time needed for it, cant be rushed. On a normal racer without disc brakes, taking everything apart, cleaning and putting together again will for me take a whole day, 8 - 12 hours.....that includes also new bartape and cables. I am sure many can do it faster, but I prefer take my time and do it slowly. Still have my old steel alloy racebike, its around 30 years old and all is still working perfectly........if you really want to learn everything, watch videos and go slow and nicely. Also getting some wheels or old bike for free to practice on can be a way. Depends really on how far you want to take it. For many people, even putting on a new chain can be a huge challenge ;)
I just got a lightly used 2021 Cannondale scaple se 1 as a Christmas present from my kids . The first thing it needed drivetrain adjustment which was off , next was resetting the cockpit on the bars and then the most important thing is doing a bike for adjustments which I did on the trail . Good suggestions
I like to use electrical tape to mask the housing rub spots on the frame. It sticks well, comes off easily, it does not harm the paint, and you can get it in different colors to either match your frame or make cool designs. I always end up using black tape regardless of the frame color...
Really enjoyed your video, very informative especially about checking the spin of the wheels, I am about to buy a new bike so your info is a great help. The only thing I think you should have added to the video was to actually check that the 'quick release' locks are properly tight.
This was a really interesting, high level video. Love the tips. On the sticker / paint / tape thing...i never had this problem with older bicycles probably due to the quality of the paint, but have noticed this on the new ones. I wonder if there is something less conspicuous to use other than stickers or tape? Like a finish or lacquer just for that spot.
I bought my bike online from a store which has some shops too. It came fully installed, all I had to do was set the stem and install the pedals (obviously since the bike didn't come with pedals). Before they ship their bikes though they do a full check by one of their mechanics and include a maintenance flyer and all. And in case I do have any problem with my bike (which ofcourse occured once or twice I can always just go to one of their stores (not too far from where I live) and they fix it for me. Also after my first couple of rides I did go to their store to just let them check my bike real quick to make sure everything really is good (which they did for free). Great service imho, not sure every bike store would do that
Great tips friend! I would only recommend you to bring all the transmissions to the smallest gear, in a way to let the springs loose any tension, in this video for example the Cannondale's transmission is working even when is hanged on the wall.
Very correct about the chain lubricant/preservative being very sticky/gummy, and a good tip about wiping the lube off the outside of the plates with degreaser on a rag.Since you are looking at the chain already, its a good idea to make sure the chain is of the correct length. Sometimes the assembler does not shorten the chain to the proper length for the drivetrain. Too long and the chain tends to hop off the chainring and could scratch your BB housing when it falls.If you need to shorten it anyway, might as well put a quick link and maybe even go full out and go paraffin lube.
I am a new subscriber. I have chosen to do so because I feel the material presented is beneficial and concise. I also very much appreciate the courteous and professional manner in which the concepts are transmitted. This is why the internet is one of the great innovations, transmission of collective knowledge. Thank you
You can wrap some old inner tube around the chainstay to protect it. I use a neoprene chainstay protector from lizardskinz-works great. I also run a headset seal from lizardskinz to keep dirt from getting into lower headset bearings. Oh, and another thing is chains are often much longer than they need to be. They can be stortened to improve shifting and reduce chain slap.
Hello. W'd like to thank you. Just bought a new 29er online and before the first ride i had the luck to watch this video.... i had already made the assembly and ajustments... and went to check the bolts just like you sugest ... man... there was one bolt missing in the front caliper! If i had not checked that i could be hurted bad. so, thanks and keep those videos coming!! Chers from Brazil!
Sure wish I had this advice on the first nice bike I purchased. I just got a new one and going to check it out before my next ride. Thanks. Check with your local sign shop for some great vinyl to protect the finish. Some have "Rock Guard" which is clear and very tough.
Hmm, If I knew about this stuff before I bought my bikes. I encountered all of this problems on my bikes. Also the derailleurs weren't adjusted properly on the bikes, it was either the back one or the front one, so you may want to check that too. Thanks for sharing your awesome knowledge. Cheers :)
Great vlog thank for the great advice I I use a Steel dish with diesel and an stiff paintbrush my thoughts are it works better than degreaser. And I’d go with painters tape so it doesn’t leave residue 👍
You should add cup and cone bearing hub adjustment. Locktite the cone and locknut which aren't normally accessible (rear wheel cassette side, front wheel disc side) and spend some time to properly adjust freeplay.
I just bought my first bike in 35 years and I checked all on the list and more. I must have a helluva great LBS because everything was perfect. Totally worth the $45 more the bike cost than if I ordered online. BTW, congrats on the new bike. I'm loving mine! 2021 Specialized Roll Sport 27.5 large. Awesome bike for my 67 year old body!
With the packing tape this works for me. If it has been on there a long time heat it with hair dryer before removing. Do not melt it just get it warm to the touch.
yep, you are right again. my tube evade from the schwalbe one tyre 3 times (my bad) and on my mtb i loose a bolt on the back swingarm - i had to find a mechanic who hand-made it from bronze - but the 2 yellow bolts (i try to match them) brought down te resale value.
Too True - they sent me a model one year older - an aluminium frame instead of steel.And the transmission was a mess of grating shifts... Last time I'll buy a bik online. Acually at my age it's probably the last time I'll buy a bike at all!
As a someone who works in the industry, I can confirm that this guy knows his shit. He has touched on a lot of fine details that most bike mechanics and other bike youtubers dont know.
Most bike mechanics don't know to check that the tire is fully seated? Or that the rim is true? I disagree. If you're buying from a LBS all of the things in this video should have been taken care of when the bike was assembled at the shop. They don't arrive fully assembled..
1. Wheels don't need to be 100% true, even spoke tension is the critical measure - use a tensiometer to check the spoke tension before touching the spoke nipples - the tyres are also an area to look at because 99/100 they aren't perfectly round. 2. Go tubeless (the Marin is designed for this) - no more punctures + more compliant tyre due to lower pressure. 4. Don't need to degrease a new chain, the packing solution is an excellent lubricant and will last a lot longer than even wax dipping your chain - degreaser always gets into the inner links of the chain and removes the lubricant - not a good thing, degreaser needs to be washed off with water afterwards.
Hey James, does a chain get sticky like this when a mechanic lubes his chain, or is this sticky sensation just something specific to the type of lube the manufacturers use on new bikes?
4. yes it will last longer before first /second lubrication but it catchs all dirt from road and it eats chain and rings, so if you are lazy it is good idea, but if you care about chain/ring life you will clean that in first second and wax it every 100km and it will last at least 50% longer than you use any oil or grease, DO NOT USE WATER AND CHAIN IN SAME SENTENCE-when it come into chain it makes damages and it is hard to put it out
Similar to buying a new guitar. It's got to be "set up." Sometimes they're completely in spec straight from the factory. Most of the time they're not. Excellent vid. Keep up the good work!
Amazing thank you so much for this video. On a side note some schwalbe tires tend to wobble no matter what you do to them. I'm guessing many other tires are like that because they're made in places like indonesia. I have to check all my bolts now.
Your English is wonderful. May I suggest the word "pinch" in lieu of "bite" . "Pinch flat" is commonly used at least in American English when an inner tube is punctured by the wheel rim as can occur when hitting a pot hole in the road, leading to the typical dual "snake bite" holes in the tube. Keep your excellent videos coming. Thanks
Great video, I think I'm definitely experiencing some of these issues with my Cannondale Synapse. I notice that the front wheel touches the disc while it spins, is this likely to be because the wheel is not true?
Another thing that is good to check is the rear derailleur hanger (this requires a special tool). My experience has been that most new bikes need an adjustment to the hanger, whether the bike is a bargain model or an expensive one.
If you don't want to spring the $72 for the Park DAG 2.2 or $60 for the CycloSpirit version, there's usually a "MTB Tools" one on eBay under $15 that lacks the gauge piece, so use a clamp and a piece of wood to improvise a gauge. If you have multiple bikes, or can get a few friends to chip in and share the Park or CycloSpirit, though, it's worth it for the quick and easy measurement and straightening.
A trick I learned while truing. Take a zip tie and put on the fork or the seat stay cut at an angle and position so the point is just touching or a hair off spin the wheel to find the abnormalities. This works if you don’t have a truing stand.
The sticky oil on the chain is not lube. It's a protective agent that keeps the Cain from rusting depending on storage until it gets home to the customer. Best practices I would say is remove it from the bike, degrease it completely with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol in a bag or small container. Then remount it and add a real lube of your choice. Remount with quick link or use a new one if required from the manufacturer.
15:37 Summary
1. 1:37 True/check wheels
2. 4:05 True/check tires
3. 7:28 Check all the screws
4. 9:50 Check the chain orientation/degrease/lube
5. 12:34 Rub protection
Oh, thanks :)
ShaiBike May I ask if that's tune or true that you were saying? Thanks:)
thank you!
thanks, i didn't want to watch 17 mins for 5 things :)
ty
Even 4 years old video still so much helpful. Thank you so much for been honest and not crazy exaggerating anything. Keep it simple 👍
When is comes to installing of tubes, I have always used a little baby power to lightly coat the inside of the tire and the tube itself. Then I continue with inflating a little at a time while squeezing the side walls to let the tube find its position. The powder aids in the tube finding its position, by lessening friction inside the tire
Been working on motorcycles for years, where you have the same problem with chains, but a trick I use is to use diesel to dip and deep clean the chains. Diesel is a great degreaser but will not damage the little rubber seals inside the chain links. It actually prevents them from drying out and it lasts even longer than normal. Then just clean and oil as usual. I've never found a better way or a better product than simple normal diesel.
Kerosene. Cheap and gets the job done.
Chain have rubbers?
@@Yippeee5959 motorcycle chain does I believe.
@@Changchar37 i have no idea, thanks by the way :)
Here"s a great tip for all! If you look at the inside or your tire you can usually see where the tire manufacturer matches up the rubber and bonds it together making a seam to complete the tire, make sure that seam doesnt line up with the welded seam of your rim when you mount it because thats where you will most likely have a natural wobble on each that you cant get rid of so id say put the the tire seam at the valve hole cuz the exactly opposite of the rim seam
Fantastic video, very informative. I work as a technician in a high end bike shop and all of those things are basic assembly procedures for our bikes. There is however one thing that was not mentioned that we do, and this applies to non sealed bearing hubs only. Every wheel assembled in Taiwan (and probably elsewhere), does not have the correct bearing preload in the hub. It's important to use a 13 or 15 mm cone wrench and a 17mm wrench to adjust the hub bearing load so you are not causing premature wear.
Fantastic video, that Marin's a pretty unique setup! Tri-bars with disc brakes, big tyres and a 1x drivetrain. Most comfortable time trial trainer ever! Must try it myself XD
Great instructional video. I want to learn about maintaining my drivetrain, front and back.
Agree on all tips. I would add that when you're checking bolt tightness it's better to test by trying (slightly) to loosen the bolt, as opposed to tighten. Especially when dealing with carbon material. Like you said, but inverse. Don't loosen the bolt, just test it.
Thank you so much! I have just ordered a new bike online, and am waiting its arrival. This video is perfect for me right now! I am watching some of your other videos as well, because I am getting my very first bike with gears! Thanks you so much for all the help! :D
I think everything you're saying is true and you make very good points. Especially the part about making sure ALL nuts and bolts are checked for tightness. I have not yet found a bicycle that did not have something loose on it.
Great vid!! I purchased a hard tail Cannondale from my local shop & the wheels have never been true. The last tip is awesome as well. My cables real did a number on the base of my fork & along side the headtube.
I've been turning wrenches for 40 years. I'd say the #1 thing that gets overlooked on new bikes is bearing adjustment. 99% of new bikes come with the wheel bearings too tight out of the box, and I dare say most mechanics do not bother to adjust them. #2 is the pedals and or crank arms not being tightened properly. So many relatively new bikes come back with stripped out crank arms because they weren't secure in the first place. This doesn't occur often with bikes that come from independent bike shops, but is very common with department store bikes, or bikes purchased online and assembled by the owner.
please do a demo video
I agree with you on that one, i too am in the trade, those and headset adjustment being over tightened.
Should also mention derailleur hanger alignment check.
trekkeruss. So true. My crank arm fell off while I was riding. Imagine my embarrassment!
picked up a fat tire mongoose a Kmart.....the only reason was....it was way marked down, and I won a $100 to spend there....I had heard and seen some videos about D/Store bikes being thrown together.....damned glad I took it to a bike shop in a neighboring town....he used to be a pro rider....he said the same deal......check everything....it looks new, but you don't know who put the thing together...he charges $35-50, depending on how crappy they are put together.....my full suspension bike is Alum. Frame, and they take more maintenance....more moving parts....in Montana, we ride in summer/fall mostly, but he said ya even need to look them over before you jump back on them.....I wiped out once on a store bike years ago....when I went to turn, the handlebars were loose (stem?) and the wheel went right, and I went over....ya never know....this guy's kinda hard to understand (but so am I....damned southern accent) but he is right.........thanks for the video dude.....
Fantastic video! Clear, precise and nicely filmed and edited. I am now subscribed.
Thanks for your videos and tips. Newbie here from The Philippines.
great points!...wish I had found this earlier...sticky chain caused me to begin searching for front derailure issue. When shifting to the smallest chainring the chain stuck to the chainring throwing the chain in between the chain ring and the chainstay...again thinking the limit adjustment was off. Anyway, your suggestions gave me the insight to look elsewhere...problem solved! thank you.
I go a lot further than that with a new bike. 1. Change to new cables or at least take them out and grease them. 2. Checking grease in wheel, bottom bracket, steer tube and if needed put new grease. 3. All bolts off and give grease, especialy those holding the brakes and chainrings ( you will thank yourself for that later!). 4. Off with tyre and tube and assemble again, maybe get new and better tyres. 5. Preferable new and better brake pads. Brakes are your safety for slowing down and stopping, not a place to save few bucks. 6. Never use degreaser or soap when cleaning your bike unless you have everything taken apart and assemble it again with new grease and oil. - Why I am making such an effort???.....because its often I go faster than 50 km/h and if you have done your bike nicely, your safety is better. - Nothing worse than going downhill with 60 -70 km/h and your brake cable snap, or your brake pads are the cheap ones not making you stop quickly enough - After around 4500 km you will need to change your chainrings, if you just have left them without grease, they can be seriously hard to get off at that time. Grease are often not used on bolts from factory when put together. - If you dont know how to do these things, learn it. Its really well worth knowing to fix your bike no matter what it is. Will save you a lot of money in the long run, you will better be able to fix your bike if you are far from home and have a defect. If you do things correctly, the bike will be a lot more safe for you to ride, else you really have to trust your local bike shop. Many do a really good job, but also exprienced many doing a horrible job fixing other peoples bikes. - A well mantained bike for better safety on the road.! ( Was taught to do these things when i was kid back in the late 70's and have since been riding around 250.000 km and never had any issues what so ever). Wish you all some wonderful and safe rides.!!! Cheers
Forgot to mention the sadlepin, take it up and put grease on it and put it back. After some months it can be seriously hard to get off again. Grease is your friend on a bike, espcially here in Denmark with the salt in the humid as we are always near the ocean no matter where we are in the country. ;) Alu alloys tend to kind of grow together, the reason the use of grease. :)
Kim Lodrö Dawa wow. awesome advice. thank you. I am planning to get a new bike soon and I'm not sure I can even do all these manuvers. maybe you do a quick video on the whole process when you get your next bike or rebuild a bike. that would be awesome.
choski76 - Not sure I will be able to do that. Dont have a cam and will not be able to afford one for at least next 4 months. Also already many good videos out there. RJ The Bike Guy is good for especially people with older bikes. But bikes are fairly simple, so it shouldnt take you long to learn. Most things are logic and easy. Building a wheel and fixing bearings can be little tricky though and takes some skills. Also you need the right tools which also is little costly, but is a one time investment. Good quality tool is needed though as bad quality tools can ruin your bolts etc. Also it takes time, so if you only have little time available its better to pay someone for doing it for you unless you have a good friend who knows about it. Do it nice and take the time needed for it, cant be rushed. On a normal racer without disc brakes, taking everything apart, cleaning and putting together again will for me take a whole day, 8 - 12 hours.....that includes also new bartape and cables. I am sure many can do it faster, but I prefer take my time and do it slowly. Still have my old steel alloy racebike, its around 30 years old and all is still working perfectly........if you really want to learn everything, watch videos and go slow and nicely. Also getting some wheels or old bike for free to practice on can be a way. Depends really on how far you want to take it. For many people, even putting on a new chain can be a huge challenge ;)
unless it involves carbon, no grease then, just assembly compound/grit gel.
Great insight, brother, and much respect for your focus on safety. Clearly, you love the cycling life. Thanks for sharing.
I just got a lightly used 2021 Cannondale scaple se 1 as a Christmas present from my kids . The first thing it needed drivetrain adjustment which was off , next was resetting the cockpit on the bars and then the most important thing is doing a bike for adjustments which I did on the trail . Good suggestions
Thank you for the tip about rub protection! It messes me up seeing the paint of my bike being scratched by the cables. Thank you for this solution.
Very well explained great tips for newly bought bikes
Very good video. That's how I got my start, Building wheels by hand in the '70's
Very informative video, subscribed! Please do more videos like this, very helpful for beginners 😁
Thank you for the info, a great need to know video!
This man is telling no lies. Good video. Both online and store bought bikes have these issues
I loved my time in Poznań! You have a beautiful country-and thanks for the tips.
I like to use electrical tape to mask the housing rub spots on the frame. It sticks well, comes off easily, it does not harm the paint, and you can get it in different colors to either match your frame or make cool designs. I always end up using black tape regardless of the frame color...
in my experience, electrical tape dries out and leaves a residue if not changed frequently. Loses tack over time.
Have you never left it out in the hear that crap turns into a tar like substance
Clear Gorilla Tape. You’re welcome.
I wrapped my trek in gaffer tape. Sticks well and doesn't leave residue. Plus it's like cloth.
Learning a lot from your vids, you are a very good teacher, thanks!
Really enjoyed your video, very informative especially about checking the spin of the wheels, I am about to buy a new bike so your info is a great help. The only thing I think you should have added to the video was to actually check that the 'quick release' locks are properly tight.
Very useful tips. Thanks bro 😀
Great tip for the stickers. Thanks
Man i loved your channel, I'm a new subscriber!
This was a really interesting, high level video. Love the tips. On the sticker / paint / tape thing...i never had this problem with older bicycles probably due to the quality of the paint, but have noticed this on the new ones. I wonder if there is something less conspicuous to use other than stickers or tape? Like a finish or lacquer just for that spot.
Great video! I didn't think about taping any friction points on the frame.
I bought my bike online from a store which has some shops too. It came fully installed, all I had to do was set the stem and install the pedals (obviously since the bike didn't come with pedals). Before they ship their bikes though they do a full check by one of their mechanics and include a maintenance flyer and all. And in case I do have any problem with my bike (which ofcourse occured once or twice I can always just go to one of their stores (not too far from where I live) and they fix it for me. Also after my first couple of rides I did go to their store to just let them check my bike real quick to make sure everything really is good (which they did for free). Great service imho, not sure every bike store would do that
Great tips friend! I would only recommend you to bring all the transmissions to the smallest gear, in a way to let the springs loose any tension, in this video for example the Cannondale's transmission is working even when is hanged on the wall.
Very correct about the chain lubricant/preservative being very sticky/gummy, and a good tip about wiping the lube off the outside of the plates with degreaser on a rag.Since you are looking at the chain already, its a good idea to make sure the chain is of the correct length. Sometimes the assembler does not shorten the chain to the proper length for the drivetrain. Too long and the chain tends to hop off the chainring and could scratch your BB housing when it falls.If you need to shorten it anyway, might as well put a quick link and maybe even go full out and go paraffin lube.
I am a new subscriber. I have chosen to do so because I feel the material presented is beneficial and concise. I also very much appreciate the courteous and professional manner in which the concepts are transmitted. This is why the internet is one of the great innovations, transmission of collective knowledge. Thank you
You can wrap some old inner tube around the chainstay to protect it. I use a neoprene chainstay protector from lizardskinz-works great. I also run a headset seal from lizardskinz to keep dirt from getting into lower headset bearings. Oh, and another thing is chains are often much longer than they need to be. They can be stortened to improve shifting and reduce chain slap.
Hello.
W'd like to thank you. Just bought a new 29er online and before the first ride i had the luck to watch this video.... i had already made the assembly and ajustments... and went to check the bolts just like you sugest ... man... there was one bolt missing in the front caliper! If i had not checked that i could be hurted bad. so, thanks and keep those videos coming!! Chers from Brazil!
Thank you, excellent video and well spoken.
Excelllent Tip. THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Thank you again, love your videos....
Génial, des vraies astuces par quelqu'un qui connait bien ses vélos. Merci.
Some very good tips. Thank you.
Thanks for the info..
Thanks for the tips!
Sure wish I had this advice on the first nice bike I purchased. I just got a new one and going to check it out before my next ride. Thanks. Check with your local sign shop for some great vinyl to protect the finish. Some have "Rock Guard" which is clear and very tough.
Another informative no BS video, Thank You
Hmm, If I knew about this stuff before I bought my bikes. I encountered all of this problems on my bikes. Also the derailleurs weren't adjusted properly on the bikes, it was either the back one or the front one, so you may want to check that too. Thanks for sharing your awesome knowledge. Cheers :)
Also, talcum powder on the tubes inside will help. Proven to decrease friction as well!
Great vlog thank for the great advice I I use a Steel dish with diesel and an stiff paintbrush my thoughts are it works better than degreaser. And I’d go with painters tape so it doesn’t leave residue 👍
Thanks heaps! Very nice and quite helpful video, and my bike's wheel is almost true :)
This is great advice! Thanks
Thank you, very helpful.
Thank you . So precise.👍
Carbon fiber vinyl wrap works great for protection and looks way better than tape, and won't damage the paint!
Namaste! awesome vid! very helpful! Thank you!
Some great tips. Thanks
Really appreciate your effort thanks bro
You should add cup and cone bearing hub adjustment. Locktite the cone and locknut which aren't normally accessible (rear wheel cassette side, front wheel disc side) and spend some time to properly adjust freeplay.
dont glue it stuck lol
Awesome, thanks!
I'm getting my first new bike in 40 yrs, so really appreciate this info!
Wow, preparation is great, but I’ve never seen someone prepare for a purchase *40 years* in advance!
Hope you enjoy the bike when it arrives in 2040!
I just bought my first bike in 35 years and I checked all on the list and more. I must have a helluva great LBS because everything was perfect. Totally worth the $45 more the bike cost than if I ordered online. BTW, congrats on the new bike. I'm loving mine! 2021 Specialized Roll Sport 27.5 large. Awesome bike for my 67 year old body!
good one ..thanks.
Great video! Thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks man. I nvr trued a wheel b4. I get a rubbing when I pedal. I've reset my calipers, bled line, and slightly rebent rotor. Still some noise.
Thanks for the tips.
Good point about the bead
With the packing tape this works for me. If it has been on there a long time heat it with hair dryer before removing. Do not melt it just get it warm to the touch.
Great Video, greetings from Romania!
This is a great channel keep up the good work
tq for your tips & information... I'm from Malaysia 🇲🇾
yep, you are right again. my tube evade from the schwalbe one tyre 3 times (my bad) and on my mtb i loose a bolt on the back swingarm - i had to find a mechanic who hand-made it from bronze - but the 2 yellow bolts (i try to match them) brought down te resale value.
Too True - they sent me a model one year older - an aluminium frame instead of steel.And the transmission was a mess of grating shifts... Last time I'll buy a bik online. Acually at my age it's probably the last time I'll buy a bike at all!
Really interesting! Thanks
As a someone who works in the industry, I can confirm that this guy knows his shit. He has touched on a lot of fine details that most bike mechanics and other bike youtubers dont know.
Most bike mechanics don't know to check that the tire is fully seated? Or that the rim is true? I disagree. If you're buying from a LBS all of the things in this video should have been taken care of when the bike was assembled at the shop. They don't arrive fully assembled..
1. Wheels don't need to be 100% true, even spoke tension is the critical measure - use a tensiometer to check the spoke tension before touching the spoke nipples - the tyres are also an area to look at because 99/100 they aren't perfectly round.
2. Go tubeless (the Marin is designed for this) - no more punctures + more compliant tyre due to lower pressure.
4. Don't need to degrease a new chain, the packing solution is an excellent lubricant and will last a lot longer than even wax dipping your chain - degreaser always gets into the inner links of the chain and removes the lubricant - not a good thing, degreaser needs to be washed off with water afterwards.
Hey James, does a chain get sticky like this when a mechanic lubes his chain, or is this sticky sensation just something specific to the type of lube the manufacturers use on new bikes?
4. yes it will last longer before first /second lubrication but it catchs all dirt from road and it eats chain and rings, so if you are lazy it is good idea, but if you care about chain/ring life you will clean that in first second and wax it every 100km and it will last at least 50% longer than you use any oil or grease, DO NOT USE WATER AND CHAIN IN SAME SENTENCE-when it come into chain it makes damages and it is hard to put it out
Similar to buying a new guitar. It's got to be "set up." Sometimes they're completely in spec straight from the factory. Most of the time they're not. Excellent vid. Keep up the good work!
Amazing thank you so much for this video. On a side note some schwalbe tires tend to wobble no matter what you do to them. I'm guessing many other tires are like that because they're made in places like indonesia. I have to check all my bolts now.
Lube on stem bearings, lube on crank-set, thread-locker to prevent seized bolts. Thanks for the video.
Great points. I must add checking the cone nuts on the wheels. Most of the time, the wheel bearing cones are too tight.
Your English is wonderful. May I suggest the word "pinch" in lieu of "bite" . "Pinch flat" is commonly used at least in American English when an inner tube is punctured by the wheel rim as can occur when hitting a pot hole in the road, leading to the typical dual "snake bite" holes in the tube. Keep your excellent videos coming. Thanks
you are "ONE OF THE BEST" excellent video "THANKS A LOT"
Very helpful.
Great video, I think I'm definitely experiencing some of these issues with my Cannondale Synapse. I notice that the front wheel touches the disc while it spins, is this likely to be because the wheel is not true?
Another thing that is good to check is the rear derailleur hanger (this requires a special tool). My experience has been that most new bikes need an adjustment to the hanger, whether the bike is a bargain model or an expensive one.
If you don't want to spring the $72 for the Park DAG 2.2 or $60 for the CycloSpirit version, there's usually a "MTB Tools" one on eBay under $15 that lacks the gauge piece, so use a clamp and a piece of wood to improvise a gauge.
If you have multiple bikes, or can get a few friends to chip in and share the Park or CycloSpirit, though, it's worth it for the quick and easy measurement and straightening.
David Connell What kind of adjustment does it need?
Thank you for a very informative video. I have learned something new with your tips.
I'm glad to read that :)
Great video, subscribed right away! :-)
what a great video. Great job with your English. I subscribed and look forward to many more quality videos.
Thank you Jacob, though my English isn't too fluent just yet :)
Great info!!!!
i use car vinyl wrap to custom make frame protection patches, its very tough, cheap, light, easy to apply and remover
A trick I learned while truing. Take a zip tie and put on the fork or the seat stay cut at an angle and position so the point is just touching or a hair off spin the wheel to find the abnormalities. This works if you don’t have a truing stand.
Very informative
Great tips
My store ships in the entire bike bit by bit then they put it together in their personal workshop, great service
Great presentation.
Thanks it is a very helpful tips
good video very educational you learnt me something..thanks for sharing
I'm happy to hear that :)
Great video
The sticky oil on the chain is not lube. It's a protective agent that keeps the Cain from rusting depending on storage until it gets home to the customer.
Best practices I would say is remove it from the bike, degrease it completely with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol in a bag or small container. Then remount it and add a real lube of your choice. Remount with quick link or use a new one if required from the manufacturer.
Indeed. Shimano make it very clear that a new chain should be de-greased and lubed before use.
Amazing!!