How to Print and Assemble Dual Action Hidden Blade by Sonndersmith
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2023
- *The link to 3D printable files is in the pinned comment.
This is my Assassin’s Creed inspired hidden blade 3D model (Syndicate edition) equipped with a unique mechanism, every single detail of that is 3D printable, except for a nylon cord. There’s no need for screws, nuts, springs, magnets, ball bearings or even rubber bands. All you need is 100g of standard PETG filament and a piece of nylon cord (0.6-0.8mm thick).
An assembly approach has been inspired by the handguns assembly process, which can be done in a matter of seconds by using no tools. By combining several functions in each detail of the mechanism I managed to reduce the overall number of them down to 11.
#3dprinting #3dmodeling #diy #toys #lego #holidays #fusion360 #hobby #mechanism #ender3pro #assassinscreed #weapons #knife #3dpuzzle #mechanism #fusion360 #fighter #warriors #gauntlet #videogames #syndicate #brotherhood #valhalla #puzzle - Навчання та стиль
If you have any questions about this project please contact me via Cults3D or Instagram (sonndersmith), I rarely check UA-cam comments.
There is another mechanism version which was made specially for PLA, the files were uploaded as a part of the existing project. Here's a video about PLA version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
3D printable files are here: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/assassin-s-creed-dual-action-hidden-blade-by-sonndersmith
If the link doesn't work you can find this project on cults3d.com using following search query: “assassin’s creed dual action hidden blade by sonndersmith”
sondder, i would appreciate your tips on how i'd put this through PCBWAY for 3d printing, as i don't have access to a 3d printer and want to get this printed. i can't download the files beforehand because they cost money and i'm not willing to test. if you have time, i would appreciate it if you went to PCBWAY and put in the settings required for this print.
also, is this model intended for right/left handed people are all? or does it not matter? i'd like to get two of these printed to have both on at once or give one to a friend.
If I use PLA it’s the same thing? 🥲
@@joogled1839 I think it doesn't matter which hand you use since it is operated with the middle finger.
@@alezen264PETG is more prepared for mechanical elements so you could use pla but it will not be very resistant
This has to be the most refined one I've seen, even after like 10 years. Compact, entirely 3D printed, and with such a simple yet very effective and reliable mechanism. It can be upgraded to be stronger or left as is, and even then, it requires no tooling at all. This is definitely a marvel and in a lot of ways, better than most of ImDeePainReborn's designs, if not all in terms of simplicity and reliability.
Thank you!
Yes, I tried to avoid using the classic OTF mechanism because it’s too demanding and not so reliable in my opinion, so I’ve created a brand new crankshaft based mechanism. Actually it’s the second version, the first one had a longer blade extension, but it couldn’t be fully 3D printed and the assembly process was quite complicated, so I decided to sacrifice a longer blade in favor of the printability and reliability.
I would love to see this other version, with the longer blade@@sonndersmith
@sonndersmith can you use fishing line ?
@@sonndersmithShould design the torsional spring to be CNC machined from Stainless, and get the Blade section in Stainless, and sharp. Now you got a real weapon
Agreed, I still have a bunch of 3d files from over the years but never tried to convert one for metal. I wonder how strong this mechanism would be if it were made of say aluminum
this is the best mechanical dual action i have ever seen , instead of center u make the retrector at the back which is much genius way and much simpler ,and tinner compare it to be center
This is the most thought out version I have seen and best for the price, it just makes sense and works amazingly
Wow! Great project and the best mechanics I've ever seen.
wow i love this design, it is so simple and yet so effective i think it is the best one ive ever seen
this is miles above even the hacksmith one. I've bee trying to figure out this mechanism for a while myself. I never through of a rotary ratchet type mechanism... genius.
Thankyou I’ve been searching for a model that isn’t basically fully 3d printed and I only found yours
This is a genius mechanism man
So much to learn from in this! FYI UA-cam algorithm tip. I think I got recommended this because of the intersection of Lego and 3D printing. Maybe think of other intersections of interest to capture more people. It could be because it is such an awesome creation.
Omg 😱 what a awesome design
awesome file thank you so much!!!
Newest and most slick design I have seen so far I’m defo finna purchase.🔥🔥
Thanks! Yes, it’s a brand new crankshaft based mechanism, which doesn’t contain any screws, nuts, metal springs, ball bearings or even rubber bands, but it works well only with PETG. Though I’m going to make another one optimized for PLA later.
@@sonndersmith hmm sounds great bro good luck! Also have you considered also making other designs to sell as well?
@@_frxst_5hey do you play any ac game?
@@sonndersmith this is my problem i printed from PLA and it wont actuate :( i will have to print it from some PETG and see how that goes
@@sonndersmithany update on pla Version??
Wow very genious! Great 3d Model!
Thank you!
For anyone making this with issues keeping the cord attached to the spring, if you have a soldering iron, you can melt some filament into the hole to seal it in.
This is awesome
I'm buying it the moment I get home lol. Looks awsome
Of course it turned out cool...
*Sigh* FINE! I’ll start another project before finishing my other ones!
In all seriousness, thank you man. I’ve been wanting a hidden blade for, well you know that feeling, but to 3D print it? I’ve been waiting for people to make a dual action one for months since getting my printer on February. Not only did you do it, but you make the design look SO good! Like a true hidden blade! Made every fans dream come true. Be dope to modify it to have the Assassin’s logo especially the skull version from Black Flag! You’re our Leonardo DaVinci to Ezio! Thankfully we don’t have to remove the ring finger…do we?
I’m really glad to hear it, thank you! I decided to create my own mechanism instead of using a classical OTF system and I did my best to make it easy to print and assemble. This mechanism works with two-segment HB versions, so for Black Flag edition I have to come up with another one, but I’ve already got an idea.
I feel that dude. I've tried so many of the different OTF variations I found on thingiverse but none of them ever print right and there's almost always no good instructions for any of the parts. This is the first one I've seen that not only has good instructions and a good mechanism but also has potential problems and solutions in the files. 10/10 can't wait to print.
Man please upload more desings, all these years trying to find the perfect blade mecanism and you made it
I'm already working on it, thank you!
@@sonndersmith Any progress on others? Great work!
looks like you're disassembling a gun like a soldier, plus going above and beyond with added supports in without having us to needing to play around in the slicer.
just when you thought you've seen it all ..nice man
For any of you that are having trouble making the print move smoother, here’s one solution, clean off the piston. Now it’s working every time for me. Let me know if you have any problems and/or questions.
This is a copy and paste from the second video he has. I just want to make sure that everyone’s print works out good.
man you made my desire for a 3d printer go to another level
It’s a very tedious hobby trust me you’ll have to have a bunch of patience
Woah this would've been a cool AC cosplay prop.
How good 🙌
personally my 3d printer printed the supports as part of the prints so I had to alter the models to fix it. but that is just a problem with my printer overall a really great print and an awesome design thank you.
Thank you! I've uploaded the files without embedded supports to the listing, because some people faced this problem.
Love this design and have a new printer coming to make this! Though I also wonder if it’s possible to print these in ABS?
Gonna be attempting a modified/personalized print tomorrow. If it works out, the cr75 will be replaced with nothing is true, and on the second arm blade will be everything is permitted. Might try to add the logo somewhere as well. Thanks for the effort and work into making this file.
Thank you, but I’m not sure I understand your 2nd sentence. CR75 - is a version name, CR means “crankshaft based” and “75” is a number of iterations I made to get this mechanics.
@@sonndersmith I just changed the text that was there to something related to Assassin's Creed.
I know am late and all but am wondering which 3d printer you have or which do u recommend
Perfect
Is there a way to make it deploy and retract quicker? I was thinking of sanding everything and replace the spring with a metal one but I'm still not sure if that could work
Hey so, could you make the blade longer? Or a design to make it longer, if 3d printing wasn’t a problem? And can you explain how the mechanism really works???
Best of best one.
What kind of cord do you recomend?
why is this man so smart bro i hope i have the same filament so i dont have to wait for a sale and then wait for the shipping
Thanks! By the way, there is another mechanism version which was made specially for PLA, the files were uploaded as a part of this project. Here's a video about this version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
@@sonndersmith thanks dude
Does the blade lock in place when it extends?
Omg I downloaded the predator mask too, just realized you're the same person.. bought this one too
do you play ac unity?
Can this mechanism be used to make retractable wolverine claws?
Great design! Do you think there’s a way to add an additional strap around the thumb? I know this design isn’t meant for actual use, but if it was, in order to hold the impact of a stab, it’d need to be braced more solidly around the wrist and hand
Thank you! Yes, that's a good idea!
Как-же это круто
Great job! Do you plan on adding more alternate designs (like a skull logo for Edward's blade) in 3Dcult?
Thank you! Yes, I’m going to make some more HB designs and one of them is Edward’s blade.
You're awesome
You should try to make Conners hidden blade, it has a similar circular thing in the back
Yeah, maybe I’ll make it in future.
Might buy two of these for both arms lol
Yes, you can, just mirror all the parts before printing.
can this be done in normal pla?
Is there any way to buy this considering I don't have a 3D printer?
cool hiden blade
Thanks!
I’m having an issue where the crank shaft is slipping out of the pulley when you try to open the blade, do you have any tips for how to fix it? Otherwise it looks really good.
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
That problem happens when a flow percentage is not sufficient. You can try increasing it by 5% and reprinting a base part and a crankshaft. But if it’s your only problem with the mechanism, you can just print a crankshaft model with slightly widened outer perimeter, here’s the link to download: drive.google.com/file/d/1cxOHUmAKchlBpZimXmFcizmDu6i2mCQH/view?usp=sharing
The blade works well but as soon as I put the blade cover on it gets stuck, I dont now why I´ve sanded the piece but nothing, then I remove the cover and starts working again.
The model does come with already existing supports, maybe you didn’t remove them?
The design looks awesome. Much better than OTF. I printed the parts but there is a problem. When I put the cord with the spring, I can wind it up easily. When I put just the crankshaft on top of the case without the spring it rotates just fine. But when I put both the spring and the crankshaft the mechanism gets jammed. I can't make it rotate easily like in the video. Should I sand any of the parts?
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
Can you rotate a crankshaft disk by fingers when a pulley is under it? If so, you probably have a small bump on the edge caused by a seam. Try either using sandpaper to get rid of it or reprinting the part at the angle where that seam is on the end of an extended flexible element.
If you have some other questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
Hi, two questions:
1 Does the blade lock when it comes out?
2 Can it be manually pushed back or do I always need to pull the string?
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments.
1. Yes, the blade locks when it comes out
2. It assumes that you switch between the blade states just by pulling the string, but if you need to push it back manually there is one trick for that. When the blade is activated and locked you can slightly pull the string just until it clicks (at the very beginning of the motion). That click means that the blade is now unlocked and you can push it back manually instead of pulling a string at full length.
If you have some other questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
Holy moly
I am having a problem where the drive pulley doesn't move all the way back into place and i can only move the crankshaft once before it is stuck, any tips on how to fix this?
Hi! That usually happens when the drive pulley was printed out of PLA instead of PETG. I have another mechanism version specially for PLA, the files were uploaded as a part of this project, please check it. Here's a video about this version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
If you used PETG, this problem can be a sign that your plastic absorbed too much moisture from air and it should be dried, here’s a good video about filament drying: ua-cam.com/video/FAXUjZZER5E/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CNCKitchen
If you have some other questions please contact me on Cults or Instagram (sonndersmith).
How come yours is so smooth! I used the same settings, and I’ve sanded down some rough edges, but mine is still super tough to move! I haven’t printed the spring yet, bet even pulling it out with my hands is so troublesome
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments. This problem is described in my troubleshooting PDF guide included in the folder with printable files. I hope you have already read it, but if not try decreasing the flow value by 5% (if you had 100% set 95% instead), then reprint problematic parts.
In this video I demonstrate how freely all the parts have to move (they are just 3d printed, not sanded at all): ua-cam.com/video/8JBxxcqR-RQ/v-deo.htmlsi=cT9ceZNxsC-v79WO
Yes, I’m assembling another version of the mechanism (which was made for PLA), but the first mechanism should work as freely as that one.
If you have some other questions please contact me on Cults or Instagram (sonndersmith).
Does it have to be PETG or would PLA work as well? Looking really really good but im kinda new to 3d printing and until now I only printed with pla
Thank you!
PLA has other physical properties than PETG so I made another set of files for it. A spiral spring doesn’t work in PLA so I replaced it with a rubber band.
Here's a video about this version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
Great work, but there is a minor problem with mine. The pin that the spring seats on breaks off which really sucks. Any solutions?
Thanks!
The mechanism shown in this video was made for PETG, so If you use PLA for the spring it won’t work because it’s not a suitable material for such things. If you print it out of PETG and it breaks it means that your filament needs to be dried. Here’s a good video about how you can dry your filament: ua-cam.com/video/FAXUjZZER5E/v-deo.htmlsi=CAIEEkCgWRxwAskF
But there’s another option: you can just print another version of the mechanism (which was made specially for PLA), a 3D printed spring in it was replaced with a piece of rubber band. Here’s my video about it: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
Both versions are available in the listing files.
Hi, Just to understand this design correctly, only the spring need to be printed in PETG correct? and the blade and housing can be printed in other materials like ASA or PLA plus? as my printer has trouble with petg alot and would like to print the outside parts in something easier.
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
Yes, the spring works only with PETG but some other parts have flexible elements tuned for PETG properties. For instance, a crankshaft has a special flexible element that prevents it from turning counterclockwise, in PLA it will create too much resistance while turning, because PLA is more rigid than PETG.
If your printer has trouble with PETG you can use another version of the mechanism which was made specially for PLA (I replaced the spring with a rubber band there). The files are included in the project.
Here's a video about this version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
that would be cool if you made the wolverine claws like that.
I’ve written down this idea, thanks!
Tried printing this with the settings you shared and It doesn't want to work for me when I put it together. Nothing really moves and seems like the base part where you put that spring part in breaks when I take it off the printer bed..
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
Different printers can give different results at the same settings, unfortunately, but it usually can be fixed in each particular case. I have another version of the same mechanism where a 3D printed spring is replaced with a rubber band. I've recently added it in the listing files, so you can try printing it instead. If you have any problem with it please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
I’m having a hard time getting the pieces to separate. For instance the pieces at minute 1:46 of the video. Do you have any suggestions on how to get them apart easier?
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam. This problem is described in my troubleshooting PDF guide included in the folder with printable files. I hope you have already read it, but if not check your model fan speed, it has to be maximal. If it doesn’t help, use non-presupported files instead (they are included in the folder) with supports generated by your slicer. If you have any questions please contact me on Cults or Instagram (sonndersmith).
Hi, i have a question, why the PLA version has a rubber band and not the printed spiral spring?
Hi! That's a good question. The thing is PLA physical properties differ from PETG properties. There is no way to make a reliable spring out of PLA, at least in this mechanism.
Can we change the material to ABS (Except spring) and increase infill and nozzle size? for better quality?
I haven’t tested it in ABS and with a bigger nozzle, but I know that it doesn’t work well in nylon. I have another version of the same mechanism where a 3D printed spring is replaced with a rubber band (it's included in the listing files), it was made for PLA but it also can be printed by resin printers and maybe it works in ABS, but I can’t guarantee that.
The craftshaft keep coming out, when i pull string. Also its not sticking to the pully
Hi!
If a crankshaft disk is popping out it means that a flow percentage you use is not sufficient. You can try increasing it by 5% and reprinting a base part and a crankshaft.
If it would be your only problem with the mechanism, I would recommend to print a crankshaft model with slightly widened outer perimeter (here’s the link to download: drive.google.com/file/d/1cxOHUmAKchlBpZimXmFcizmDu6i2mCQH/view?usp=sharing )
Until I see your print I can’t say for sure why the crankshaft is not sticking to the pulley, but I can assume that hooks weren’t printed properly. Another mechanism version I made for PLA has a different crankshaft disk with a bit bigger hooks, maybe you should try printing that version. In any case, If you have any problem with it please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
i can see you have a ender 3 aswell. could i have all of you slicer settings? im not very good at configuring things on my own
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments. I put the most necessary settings in the product description, but I can duplicate them here:
Layer height: 0.15mm
Wall line count: 3
Z seam position: at the back right corner
Top layers: 3
Bottom layers: 2
Infill density: 20-35%
Support generation: off
The other settings are visible in the video at 1:09, when I move a slider down (you can pause the video at 1:09 and use “>” and “
Just like everyone else said, super impressive. The mechanic in me has to ask, how strong is the mechanism? Can it withstand repeated use? Have you fatigue tested anything?
Thank you and sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments.
The mechanism is strong enough to withstand cardboard penetration (if you use a pointy version of the blade, not a slightly rounded one which is included in the file set by default).
As for fatigue test, one of my customers (KALATABOZHANOV) on Cults said that “after 5000 opening and closing sequences the PETG spring weakened”, which is quite expected, but I have another version of the mechanism where a 3D printed spring was replaced with a rubber band (ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html).
The other parts remained the same, which is also expected because PETG and PLA have a small friction coefficient and can work for a long time without critical wear.
For the blade carrier with the big support, i can't seem to take the support nicely
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
You can either increase a model cooling percentage (probably it’s not 100%, as it should be for PETG) or use non-presupported blade carriage file which is included in the listing.
the crank shaft is just slipping on the drive pulley you got nay tips?
edit: PLA version works like a charm
Hi!
Do you mean the crankshaft hooks don’t enter into engagement with a drive pulley?
How easy does the crankshaft disk rotate if you set it in motion directly by fingers?
for whatever reason, I cant get the blade carriage mechanism to stay when I activate the crankshaft. It just flies away. Any tips? I love the design
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments. It seems you missed a step shown at 5:17. First I push a piston forward until it stops (at that moment the back end of a connecting rod is not attached to a crankshaft), then a blade carriage entered into engagement with a piston spur gear, I move it slightly backward and only after that I attach the connecting rod with a crankshaft. If you have any questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
When having problems with the spring
Whenever I put the round cover over it and try to turn it it comes spinning out
Any ideas
Hi!
I’ve added a PDF file recently in both of the folders available to download, it describes possible issues with the mechanism and their solutions. It seems you have an issue #1. In order to fix it you can increase the flow value in your slicer, by 5% or so (if you had 100% set 105% instead). Reprint problematic parts (I recommend reprinting a connecting rod and a crankshaft first, but if the disk is still popping out you can reprint a base as well).
I rarely check comments on UA-cam so if you have some more questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
HI @sonndersmith. Are u printing in 100% infill? thanks
Hi! I don’t recommend using 100% infill, because it can cause undesirable deformations. 35% infill is more than enough, but I usually use 20% or even less. The other recommended settings I described in the product description.
Im having a problem where the connecting rod keeps slipping out of the crankshaft, is there a fix?
Same here 😢
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
Yes, this problem happens when the flow percentage is not big enough. Try reprinting both a crankshaft and a connecting rod at a bigger value, by 5% or so (if it was 100% set 105%).
@@sonndersmith thank you i will try this
0:04 yeah in less then a Minute you are totally right 😂😂🤣🤣
I bought this on cults 3D and it just failed completely, I’m not sure why but I’m using a Creality Ender 3 V3 SE and I’m having issues with everything, nothing seems to be moving together smoothly, everything gets caught on other pieces and I’ve even tried changing the settings yet nothing worked
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam. In most cases the reason for any failure is well known and described in my troubleshooting PDF guide included in the folder with printable files, please check it first. If your attempts do not fix the problem please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith) and send me some photos/videos of what you have got, I’ll try to help you.
How thick is the nylon cord?
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments. I put this info in the product description, the cord is 0.6-0.8mm thick. I personally used a piece of braided nylon cord 0.8mm wide: aliexpress.ru/item/1005002672697132.html?spm=a2g2w.productlist.0.0.65dc4aa6l51hFX&sku_id=12000021648843234
I unfortunately keep having an issue with the spring/cord mechanism. Trying different strings either the knot is too big for pulley to rotate, or the string gets in the way of the pulley fully releasing so it can't catch the crankshaft after one pull.
Same problem with me, let me know how you solved
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
I used this exact cord:
aliexpress.ru/item/1005002672697132.html?spm=a2g2w.orderdetail.0.0.6ef44aa6OEXH1l&sku_id=12000021648843252
I also tried to use a braided fishing line cord of 0.7 mm thickness and it also worked well.
It also worked with a normal (transparent) nylon fishing line of 0.35 mm thickness (acceptable thickness of the fishing line is 0.35-0.5 mm).
If you have some other questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
how do you set up the drive pulley for PLA file it has no spring
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
I have another video about PLA version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
Can cults3d work for a Creality Ender 3 3D Printer?
Yes, of course.
do you use a 0.4mm nozzle?
Yes
Any update for the PLA version? I, like an idiot, printed everything in PLA before relizing this model is meant for PETG. Everything seems to be fine except for the pulley mechanism. I cant seem to get it to print right for assumed obvious reasons.
Update: I bought some petg, spent some time adjusting my slicer so it would print well, AAAAAAAAND... it doesn't work. The drive pulley seems to be more functional now, but there also seems to be excessive friction on the crankshaft so it won't actually turn. Not sure what is going wrong here, any thoughts? Bear in mind, I tuned the settings in my slicer to the ones suggested.
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
Different printers can give different results at the same settings, unfortunately. Try using less flow percentage (by 5% or so). Sanding a seam on the edge of a crankshaft disk can also help.
If you have some more questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
And, by the way, I’ve uploaded a PLA version recently.
What thread are you using? I’ve gone through three different types of cord or thread and I can’t seem to get it right. It’s either it’s the wrong material or the wrong diameter
He's using Nylon cord as far as I can see.
Hi! I use this exact thread (0.8mm).
aliexpress.ru/item/1005002666881651.html?spm=a2g2w
But I've seen that people successfully used other types of nylon thread. The most important thing is the diameter, it should be from 0.6 to 0.8mm. I prefer nylon because it creates less friction than cotton thread.
@@sonndersmith thanks, I got the right thread now. Just gotta remedy an issue where the toggle mechanism works fine for like 2-3 pulls but after that it just slips and doesnt index the disk.
i like this design very much but it has a huge problem, there is no locking mechanism that can prevent the blade from retracting when it hits something
i think i've already got an idea to fix it tho, i don't have the pieces so i cant try now but if there is enough space between the rotating wheel and the spring it may work, i can send some drawings if someone wants to try
Is it possible to make the blade longer
I don’t think so. In this particular mechanism the length of the blade is determined by the length of the base and can’t exceed it. I had another mechanism with longer blade extension, but it was too complex and I chose a simpler one.
i've printed 3pcs, and didnt work perfectly. i think its because too many friction on the round spring
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
All the parts have to move freely being assembled together, like in this video: ua-cam.com/video/8JBxxcqR-RQ/v-deo.html
Please check if your prints work the same way. If you have excessive friction try reprinting problematic parts by 5% less flow value. If a crankshaft disk has a visible bump at the outer edge caused by z seam try either using sandpaper to get rid of it or reprinting the part at the angle where that seam is on the end of an extended flexible element.
If you have some other questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
Does it have to be with pteg or can I use pla
Just bought the file ❤❤❤
im having a problem where the coil doesnt work, then the plate on top of that doesnt sit like this at all, just floats above it iv tried to edit the base file and add a extra tall post but still doesnt help the nylon im using iv had to superglue in and sand smooth massivly, sat there hours sanding for very little movement in pla and now petg??
@@WvIENSgood luck my man remember you're bringing something from a game to real life (you should probably remove ur discordtag from ur comment)
@@danker-ox1gc ty my bro,
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on YT (please message me on Cults if you need a quick response). This model was designed for PETG. Other filaments like PLA or (especially) nylon have different physical properties so that particular set of files won’t work with them. I’ll be able soon to make files adapted for PLA, but I can’t do that for nylon, unfortunately, because my 3D printer isn’t compatible with it.
Could you do a predator wrist blade?
Yes, I’m going to make the wristblades later. By the way, which version of them would you like to get?
I need to ask, what 3d printer do you have?? I’m considering buying one
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam. I have Voxelab Aquila 3D printer, it’s an analog of Ender 3 V2, but with silent drivers. But I don’t recommend this printer just because it has a bowden extruder that I had to replace with a direct one. It would be better to get, for instance, Ender-3 S1, that has direct drive by default.
@@sonndersmithok thanks! Also would you mind making a short video on how the mechanism works? I’ve been very curious and really can’t figure it out.
hi sonndersmith, i already purchased it but several files are corrupted or damaged. im using ultimakercura slicer and anycubic printer
Thank you! All the files were checked for errors and were tested. The only thing is some people have issues with embedded supports. In such cases I recommend using the files without embedded supports which are also included in the listing (just don’t forget to turn on support generation in your slicer).
Has anyone printed this in resin? Running a photon mono 2
Whats the weight of the print
My friend wants me to print it for him but i dont know how heavy it is
Hi!
Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam.
The weight of the assembled piece is about 75 grams.
can this be printed on a 5 by 5 build plate
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I rarely check comments on UA-cam. A minimal required bed size is 170*170 mm which is about 6.7*6.7 inches.
Hello Sonndersmith, i just bought your file and 3d printed it, it seems that i got your updated version where you need the rubber band, is it possible that you send me the drive pulley file ? I would really appreciate it :)
Thank you and sorry for the delay, I rarely check UA-cam comments. The second version is not an updated version of the first one, it’s another model redesigned for another filament (PLA). If you use PETG all the files you need you will find in the folder named “Syndicate_Hidden_Blade_PETG”.
If you have any questions please contact me via Instagram (sonndersmith).
can you make it a little thin?
Hi! I tried to make it as thin as possible.
would it work if i habe it machined in steel?
Hi! I can save this project as an STP file, but some parts just can’t be made by CNC machining because they have internal caves and tunnels. They also include latches and other flexible elements tuned for certain sorts of plastic. Furthermore, all the gaps between parts were tuned according to FDM 3D printing features.
But there’s good news, I’m working on another mechanism version which is capable with CNC. I need some time to finish it and the first version that I’m going to release will be a 3D printable one, because I have a 3D printer to test it and don’t have a CNC machine. Could you help me to test a CNC version?
May I know the weight after printing? Please reply 😊
Hi! It weighs about 85 grams after printing, if you use recommended settings.
i cant find the sping
Hi! Just check another folder and you will find it there. There are 2 different versions of the model, one of them was made for PETG (and it has the spiral spring) and another one was made for PLA and it doesn’t contain the spring (because PLA doesn't work as a spring), but the drive pulley has a special cutout in this version for placing rubber band in it. Here's the video about this version: ua-cam.com/video/mDPNlCua8GE/v-deo.html
If you are going to use PETG check the folder named “Syndicate_Hidden_Blade_PETG”.
Will PLA work with this build?
I started to adapt the files for PLA but I had so little filament that all I managed to test were 3 details out of 10 and it will take some time to get a new spool (a couple of weeks). But if you help me with testing modified files I’ll provide you with the files for free. You can contact me on Instagram (sonndersmith).
I have barely started my 3D printing journey, but I'm happy to help you out, tho I think I need to tweak and adjust my machine
Is it possible to fabricate this whole thing out of metal?
This particular 3d model was optimized for 3D printing (furthermore, for a certain sort of plastic) so it can’t be made by CNC machine, but I’m going to make another model for metal later.
@@sonndersmith I'll keep notifications on then!
How large is the file?
Hi!
Zip folder size for each mechanism version (PLA and PETG) is less than 2 Mb.