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A finish durable enough for a wooden countertop (Arm-R-Seal)
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- Опубліковано 16 сер 2024
- General Finishes Arm-R-Seal► amzn.to/31g9H1a
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Making a template: • Make your own wooden c...
Gluing it up: COMING SOON
Cutting the miter: • Make your own wooden c...
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Giving me the itch to throw down my crutches and head to the shop... of course with the surgery I had yesterday I’d be left laying on the floor staring at the bench. Gotta hand it to you, much of what i do comes from watching you. My inspiration loves you while my wallet cries. Keep it up! sparky on!
are these finishes food safe? I intend to use my counters to knead bread, pasta, pie crusts etc and I want to make sure that I'm not accidentally poisoning myself or my family
Thanks
Is it appropriate to use one of Arm-r-seal's water based finished for a countertop? I'm doing a large countertop that has to be done onsite and want to keep the fumes down.
@stumpynubs would you recommend this for a table? I’m trying to find a finish that won’t leave a ring when I put a coffee mug on it
@@LoneWolfRanging Yes I would. This will not leave a ring.
Arm-R-Seal is a good choice. However, in this case, I would have been tempted to go with walnut oil. Walnut oil, like tung oil and boiled linseed oil, is a 'hardening' or 'curing' oil. That is, with exposure to oxygen, walnut oil polymerizes into a durable finish. You can speed up curing with heat. On the lathe, I like to wet sand with walnut oil. The heat from sanding helps the oil to cure. Usually, within a couple of days, an item is cured enough to be put to use.
Arm-R-Seal has the advantage of being a more durable finish than walnut oil. So, why would I have been tempted to use walnut oil? It's self-repairing. If a portion of the finish is worn through, there's no need to sand the old finish back before applying a new coat of walnut oil. Simply clean the clean the area and wipe on some walnut oil. Let the oil soak in and, after 30 minutes or so, wipe off any excess. That ease of maintaining the finish would have been very attractive. Besides, I just like the idea of walnut countertops being finished with walnut oil!
I just wanted you to know how much your straight forward knowledge and skills are appreciated.
I've been using General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal for a long time, from bookshelves to fruit bowls. I've found it is really convenient to add a little stain to the first coat, like 50/50 mix, when one wants to darken the wood a bit.
Used satin arm r seal on my kitchen island/countertop refinish. It's a dream. Put six or seven coats on the top 5 on the underside. It's so durable it is easily cleaned with light soapy water and even withstood a bit of blistering from a hot pan my wife set on it.
I used this to coat a laminate wood wall decal, put probably 30 coats on, wet sanded with 2000 grit, buffed with auto polish, looked like a sheet of glass, loved it
If you are also using a wood counter for a cutting board, I would recommend a food safe finish such as mineral oil, same as butcher's block oil but cheaper. I built a 6 foot cutting board style counter in my kitchen with a bar sink in it and the mineral oil is holding up fine, just have to wipe on a coat when it starts looking dry.
I always appreciate your thoroughness. Very helpful. No gimmicks or schticks like I see a lot of videos.
Your presentation and teaching skills are something to be marveled at. Nice work man.
After watching this video I bought a pint of this stuff for an oak 32” round table top. I’m now a believer! It’s really easy to apply and yields a great finish that is as good as any from a top furniture maker.
I wish I could hand around you and watch you work, absolute fountain of knowledge! Great video as always!
Love love love arm-r-seal! Very forgiving to apply and looks like a million bucks when you are done.
I love my wood butcher block counter top. It's a great surface and adds a lot of warmth and character to the kitchen. But, I went a different route for a finish... I have birch wood, and the finish I chose was Waterlox Satin finish. It came out a beautiful golden color, AND it's truly water proof, and VERY stain resistant (this last part was a happy surprise). Standing water/liquids do not affect it at all.
The biggest thing to keep in mind is that you can not put hot items on the counter top. You have to use a hot pad, but it's an easy habit to form. But toasters, toaster ovens, and such are not an issue.
As for dents, dings as the years go on, they add character. But the Waterlox will slowly re-flow any slight surface finish dings over time. But if it's to deep, it's easy to get out the sand paper and sand the spots and reapply the finish. Personally I haven't had the need to do it, yet. I like the dings and such.
As for sealing the underside, it is HIGHLY recommended to seal the underside of the wood above a dishwasher. Just extend the sealing coat a foot or so on each side of the dishwasher to the underside the counter top. Some people tend to open the dishwasher after the cycle has run to let things dry out. This lets out a lot of steam, that can affect unsealed wood.
I used Waterlox on my butcher block countertops and I wish I had done the underside where the dishwasher and the sink are. The countertop has started to de-laminate and an 18" section between the sink and the stove, has actually bowed. Oh, and it will stain. One of my offspring jiggled a full coffee mug and it overflowed. They didn't clean it up right away and it left a very noticeable stain that will not come off without serious sanding and re-coating.
I love Arm-R-Seal! Nice tips about the differences in 3 coats and brown paper bag.
I've used both, but Waterlox is the most indestructible counter funish there is. It withstands decades of abuse before needing a refresher coat. It doesn't keep in the can though. Buy only what you need.
I purchased unfinished butcher block countertops and cut them to fit. I was told that Waterlox was one of the best finishes you could buy. I followed the instructions very closely and they looked great for awhile. A few years in, not decades, the finish dulled, even on the side of the kitchen that didn't have water. In areas near the sink, the wood started to de-laminate. A section between the sink and the stove, about 18" wide, actually bowed. I'm guessing that water got between the sink and the countertop and the bottom of the countertop got wet. I doubt this was due to the material or the Waterlox, but was related to my sink install. The dulling, however wasn't due to the installation.
I love arm-r-seal. Used it on steps and some custom speakers.
I did a tub surround in Wenge. I was going to coat it in West Systems epoxy but that made the surface very dark like Ebony. I ended up using Safecoat gloss and Safecoat satin water-based polyurethane. I have found that no matter what the manufacture instructions from any H2O PU, application with foam brushes work the best at minimizing bubbles. I ended up applying 12 coats (admittedly I was done at 10 but the surface wasn't blemish free until 12). It has been Installed 2 years now with no water stains, or blushes. One thing I did differently when finishing this piece was more sanding than I ever would have done in the past. I used the 3M sanding sheet that is elastic over felt pad and I blocked the surface until it was completely flat. This, in fact, took most of the first through third coats off. It was filling in the grain which made a great base for the next layers to build on. I usually think that it takes 3 coats of H20 PU to equal 1 coat of oil. I let it cure at least 12 hours but generally 24 between coats, then I left it for a week to harden. After that 0000 steel wool to break the sheen and the waxed with paste wax.
We used Rubio Monocoat for our oak butcher block countertop. Been 11 years without a re-coat, tho those would have probably been worthwhile. Only issue is long term contact w water (e.g. someone leaving a wet glass on the surface overnight).
Great advice about sanding between coats and limiting the number of coats. We are all tempted to add many many coats. Great vid. :-)
I just turned down a job to repair a maple top that had horrible stains around the faucet and cracks above the dishwasher. The client said the C top maker was a jerk because he refused to fix it again. They said they had two spare tops that were slightly damaged that he left in the basement... I left. I agree with JusBidniss... Granite it is.
I used Arm-R-Seal on several tables I made . One was Cherry the other was Maple had to apply five to six coats before it stopped soaking into the wood and it's a great finish
Kenneth Kolman how did it wear over time?
@@daveerickson5313 It's held up great with the daily use from 10 people eating 3 meals a day . We do use place mats and thick not pads under the hot pans
I do not see how this guy gets anything done with such a slim tool selection… definitely needs a sponsor.
He is brilliant! His quality of work is a reflection of talent, a tradesman never blames his tools.
@@pinksalt1057 I believe that was sarcasm. The wall behind him is covered in woodworking tools
R/whoosh
You did't show this in the video but I think it would be a good idea to put the same finish on the underside this way changes in humidity won't cause cupping.
That's the underside you see being finished near the beginning of the video. You can tell from the sapwood and flaws.
Waterlox is also great! Though it is pretty noxious until the solvents evaporate. It's nice to also have a second option. Have you tried this for flooring?
I've heard of some streaking on large projects with Arm-R-Seal Satin so it was really useful to get your tip to frequently stir it to keep the flatteners dispersed. Thanks so much for this video. For me, it was perfect information and perfect timing.
Countertop looks amazing James! I love arm r seal haven't used anything else on my furniture builds since I found out about it 7 years ago
You know it’s gonna be a good video when you see this style of intro in 2020
"just wipe up your spills as any normal reasonable person would...."
Would you please tell that to my children. They don't seem to be normal or reasonable able that.
LOL that's my daughter and my husband :-)
It's called training with tough Love! My son was required ( I checked and made sure) to make his bed and clean his room before he ate breakfast. He went without breakfast "one" time. because he didn't get up in time to do both and catch his bus to school. He turned 40 years old last July .... he's Vice President of a very successful Insurance company and still makes his bed every morning ! And guess what my grandson does every morning .....before breakfast...... make his bed and clean his room. Guess what I do every morning! Yes you lead by example and teach your children!
"just wipe up your spills as any normal reasonable person would'... UH I think I need to find something else for counter tops that is more waterproof.
Ok James, so when you're going to use a word like "polyurinate" you really need to give us a heads up that it's coming. I was drinking coffee!
I caught that too... my brother and I both did a “double take” when we heard that hahaha
As an older guy, I am very accustomed to this.
Ya, that drew a snicker outa me.
@@sar4x474 Gettin' old ain't for sissies, Brother. Testify!
And he says it with such a straight face!
another great video. If I ever build a house it will have wood countertops. I'm sold on that
Thanks James, I always learn something worthwhile from your videos. And those counters look great.
Arm-R-Seal is my 2nd favorite finish!
I use 1 coat then do a wet sand with every coat after, usually stop around 3.
I use this finish on wood pieces that I want to stay looking like plain wood.
Thanks for the video, I'll try out your method.
great tips, thanks. I didn't know you should keep mixing satin finishes like that.
what gets me is they charge more for a gloss finish, yet satin is just gloss with dullers. satin should therefore cost more.
@@TaylerMade Shhhhh!
After watching several videos, I like what you are doing. Great attention to detail, and I love the reasoning and explanation. I am going to apply this to a Maple Desk I am making.
naturally we can't get armour seal in nz. though i see they call it a wiping urathane. i have found in nz, a good way to finish counter tops, as there really isn't a big choice, is to use flooring urethane. when it sets it, is a very resistant finish.
I like Arm R Seal. I applied it to a baltic birch subwoofer I built for my brother, who has 3 young kids. It's held up well so far. Very easy to apply. My biggest complaint is that the nearest dealer is a 45 minute drive from me.
Thanks for this countertop video series! I just put a wood countertop in my kitchen. I didn’t have time or space to finish with a more durable product, so I’m going with mineral oil and food safe wax/conditioner for now. I’m hoping to put something lower maintenance on in the future. .
Can this be used on a countertop that’s already been soaked with oil? 30 days is a long time to not use a countertop already in place. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
I have to restore my dining room table. My kids spill so much water and leave it for hours. The table is ruined. I guess I'll be gluing porcelain tiles on the table. Lol.grout it with Sikaflex. Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice tutorial. Thanks heaps
Thanks for getting back to me so quick on the water and drink glass stain. I'm going to attempt a kitchen counter including a kitchen sink. The wood I have chosen mostly because of Colour but it is extremely dense is Purple Hart . And don't have a heated shop and live on the Northwest coast so I have many concerns 😟 LOL
General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal is not available in Australia. However I use Osmo and found it to be very good. It is also applied in almost the same way. I believe Osmo is available in most countries.
Thank you. I always learn something from watching your videos. Awesome job.
I'm not a fan of wood counter tops but your procedure will certainly be appropriate for any wood surface. Thank you.
YES. Just what I was looking for to seal my countertop. No more creepy homesteading videos - this is a perfectly clear and concise presentation of info. Thank you so much. Every question I had you eventually covered. Cheers.
I've not used Arm-R-Seal before but I will try it now on other projects. Thanks for the instructions.
Great video! Very informative and well explained. Exactly what I was looking for as I'm about to use Arm-R-Seal for the first time.
This is perfect as I'm preparing to build my counter-tops out of hickory. Thank you!
Very thorough and thoughtful. thank you.
I've watched this video several times in preparation to seal my butcher block counter tops with Arm R Seal. What I'm most hesitant about is that they have been treated several times over the past 4 years with Howard's Butcher block conditioner. Really after about a month that stuff seems to be pretty ineffective at repelling water, but I have been reading some not so encouraging blogs about the difficulty in removing the conditioner before applying Arm R Seal. I've read that they might need many cleanings with Naptha, and even a lot of scraping to rid the wood of the oil and wax. But then another video said that the conditioner doesn't even really penetrate that deeply. The guy at my woodworking shop, where I got the Arm R Seal seems to think that a good wiping with mineral spirits will do the trick. So.... I've started with the tops (I have 6 separate areas totaling 85 sq ft) that I've treated the least, and the longest ago. For two tops that I haven't treated that much, I just sanded with 300 grit. A third one I sanded starting with 80 grit up to 300 grit, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits before applying the fist coat of Arm R Seal. It looked like raw wood after the sanding. I couldn't feel any oiliness. That was just an hour ago, so fingers crossed! Any advice for proceeding with the counter around the sink where I have used the most conditioner, and the last treatment was about a month ago??? Please help!
Why not get some scraps of wood, apply some conditioner, let it dry and then put the Arm R Seal on it. See what happens? Arm R Seal is an oil-based product. If your conditioner is oil based, there may not be a problem. Mineral spirits will dissolve wax, which may be the reason he said to try removing it with that. I suspect mineral spirits is a main ingredient in Arm R Seal as well.
Hey James, have you ever heard of Odies Oil? I used that on my 13.5' x 4' solid walnut countertop and it is amazing. I had a tung oil finish on it before and did not like it so I switched to the Odies. Might want to check them out, great finish for all wood projects, even turnings.
Outstanding video!!!...."Polyurintate".....I damn near spit up my coffee!!!!...An informative video with a touch of humor...Well done!
After 45 years of professional and award winning finishes, I will only use catalyzed urethanes ro conversion varnishes for this application. Food cutting boards will only receive an oil finish
IDK why everyone hates on poly. I used it on my hard maple butcher block work desk. I love it. The wood still dents when I use it, but it toughened up the face just enough so it takes a decent fuckup to cause a dent. Its also water proof as long as you don't crack the surface. When you do, your left with beautiful streak stains that are left behind from normal use. I also like the fact that any burns left behind don't boil and bubble, they just sorta burn.
Thanks for the video. They look great. What do you think of General Finishes High Performance vs Arm R Seal?
I am a long time follower and subscriber and I love your UA-cam channel! Always lots of ideas and smart advice - thank you!
Additional tip to protect wood counters: 5:25 keep your dog on the floor, NEVER on the counter.
Thank you for sharing!
I’m getting ready to finish a plaque I made for a gift. It’s made out of a nice piece of cherry wood. I routed out a strip on 1 side, and put a piece of walnut veneer in the strip. Sanded it down to flush and it is beautiful. I then used a wood burner to burn in a nice heartfelt saying. Once again, sanded over the burnt area to clean it up.
I plan on using Waterlox as a coating. But have never used it before. I enjoyed your videos on Waterlox, and think it will really bring out the beauty of the cherry and walnut veneer.
Question 1 (most importantly): Can Waterlox spontaneously combust?
Question 2: Do you think the Waterlox will react well with the burnt wood writing?
Question 3: My workshop is in my basement, and not ventilated at all. It’s pretty cold outside. Should I move up to the garage for applying the Waterlox? It will still be cold in the garage (around 50 degrees). I could always bring temp up in the garage, apply, then open up for ventilation afterwards. Thoughts?
James had to watch this a second time to catch the "poly-urinate" slight. On your recommendation, I tried Arm-R-Seal and love it. Question, have you tried any ceramic coatings such as Black Forest over Arm-R-Seal? Found a couple of You Tubers that swear by it but thought I would check with the "Expert" first.
I was like, "did he say poly-urinate"? Lol
I have GOT to find something that will protect my walnut from the grease and oil by the stove. Just 'preventing splatters and drips' isn't working at all.
I did a five year test run with plywood countertops before I dared use my precious walnut. The oils by the stove were the worst part. I just put in new plywood countertops with poly and I've got 2-3 years before the BIG kitchen remodel. So I have three years to find the absolute best finish for around the sink and by the stove.
I've been protecting this walnut jealously for the last seven years. When the lumber shortages hit, I was hoarding them like a prepper hoards antibiotics. I've got one shot at this, as I'll never be able to afford walnut lumber again. I cannot screw this up.
für den deutschen Sprachraum empfehle ich Osmo-Color Arbeitsplatten Farbe. Bei den Baumärkten wird sie leider immer weiter zurückgedrängt, aber von der gleichen Firma die "Landhausfarbe" ist (wie die Arbeitsplatten Farbe auch) der glatte Wahnsinn. Ich habe (trotz einige andere Tests) nichts Vergleichbares gefunden.
Ich habe meiner Frau eine Abwasch gebaut die 10 cm höher ist, weil sie 1,80 ist und die normale Abwasch immer Rückenschmerzen verursacht hat. Das ist jetzt zehn Jahre her: Man SIEHT überhaupt nicht, dass die täglich hart im Betrieb ist!!! Es sieht einfach so aus wie am ersten Tag, unglaublich!
Beim Obi wan kenobi habe ich hin und wieder Dosen gefunden, man bekommt sie aber auch bei Amazon. Wichtig ist, dass man eine längere Trocknungszeit einplant, die ist ja auf Ölbasis, angeblich 98% Leinöl, aber es ist doch anders, als wenn man mit Leinöl oder Firnis streicht.
Mit der "Landhausfarbe" habe ich meine Fenster gestrichen und meine Haustüre, das ist über 20 Jahre her - die ist auch noch genauso wie sie damals war, keine Veränderung zu sehen! Wie geht das? Mein Nachbar hat seither schon dreimal mit Sikkens gestrichen und es blättert munter ab - manche lernen langsam, und manche lernen es nie ;-)
ach ja diese Farben sind übrigens jeweils nur einmal aufgetragen worden, und nicht mit drei Anstrichen! Da lachen ja die Hühner, wenn ich sowas schon höre!
AS Swedish chef says; Vert de ferk!
"just wipe up your spills like any reasonable person would" lol hilarious!
Thanks James I always learn something new watching your video's
Thanks
Gonna try this on some mesquite.
Always enjoy you videos!! Would you recomend semi-gloss or gloss on the countertop?
I used Arm-R-Seal on my Sapele countertop. Works well.
(But I used boiled Linseed oil first. Maybe I shouldn't have. Hmm.)
My guess is you shouldn't have since I think that stuff takes so long to dry and takes a whole lot of upkeep on it's on and I'm sure where and what kinda of boiled linseed oil you use. But James I would to be curious if that might not of been best practice. As I know lacquer can't be applied before any other finish due to off gasing for years or how ever long that takes to stop
@@timort2260 years? Wow.
I would have guessed that lacquer cures in weeks, not years.
I did wait for the linseed oil to dry before applying Arm-R-Seal.
Maybe the linseed oil was just overkill since the Arm-R-Seal darkens the Sapele too.
Sure did pop, though, once the linseed was applied.
@@antipasinchrist your probably ok linseed oil probably cured when it It drys but yeah I've heard about it from guitar builders lacquer can just keep on off gasing
Great clip
Can't wait to try
Great video Stumpy, I wanted to try this finish, thanks for the instruction
Great quality video as always. We are about to replace our old counter tops and this is good information.
That little doggie made me smile.
Question: Once you have stained the walnut countertop, can you seal it with epoxy? Will this protect it and still leave the glossy look?
If you want it to look like plastic, by all means, use epoxy. Arm-R-Seal looks WAY better, in my opinion.
Is it possible to apply this with a paint sprayer?
Maybe during the first couple of coats?
What is a good light blonde colored hardwood for a countertop? something that might hold up better against cuts
Thank you for sharing, super useful! You are v good at explaining and making it sound easy!
Is there a video of yours that describes how to glue up such wide counters?
Thanks for the video!
Awesome series
Any suggestions on alternatives to this product? Shellac maybe?
Great tips from a Pro!!🤙🏼
Thanx
If you were going to finish a raw cherry table top with Arm R Seal, what grit sand paper would you want to finish with before your first coat?
Probably 220
Is it a good idea to have Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat over dewaxed (Garnet) Shellac finish? This is for Kitchen cabinets. If not, what is your go to?
Awesome looking countertop. Thanks for sharing.
If your wooden countertop gets a dent, would you also recommend trying the un-dent trick with a clothes iron and some water before re-sealing it?
It would be unlikely to work since the finish will prevent the fibers from absorbing the moisture needed to swell back up.
Damn Stumpy! Looks good
Thanks for the ideas
Great series James!
Im making a black walnut bar top and really love how shellac looks but need some protection. Can I apply this over shellac to get the depth and protection I need?
Thanks!
Hi Stumpy, I had a custom dining room table and the end result was pathetic. Since they are in Canada getting them to correct the issues doesn't really work. The issue is that when they applied the oil, many areas kept soaking up the oil and they didn't bother to keep applying. Then they applied wax and a ceramic liquid. The end result is areas of "dry" wood. I believe you are right that Arm-R-Seal is the way to go. My question is what is the smartest way to remove what they did and then apply Arm-R-Seal? Thanks for your time. Bill
Just a little tip. Be very careful with sugar on the counter top. Suppose you have several people that put sugar in their coffee in the morning and have a habit of spilling the sugar and then you have kids that leave wet dishes on the countertop where the sugar has been spilled, then you come home from work and go to tidy up and grab that cereal bowel that was set in the sugar wet and has now dried and you realize that it is glued to the counter top as it rips a chunk of wood away from the counter. No fun.
Thank you
Definitely buy this by the gallon. You can seal what's left over in mason jars
Totally agree on the finish. Looks great on our maple top. Ditto on a coat on the underside too. One thing I noticed using the titebond 3 is the color of glue (brownish) actually shows up on maple so titebond 2 may be better for lighter woods?
Well done thanks.
Gorgeous!
I am currently building an island top made from ash. I don't want the natural color and I am going to stain it. Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over a stain? And is it more durable than a poly finish?
Arm R Seal can be applied over stain. It is a poly-based finish, as explained in the video.
I can see that now Stumpy, cool 👍
Great informative video!! Used tung oil for years, and love the finish ! Used it with red iodine on gun stocks ......beautiful!
Thanks for all the good advice. Would this work on a Pastry Board. I need to make a new one for a client and there are almost too many options. If I allow this to cure for 30 days, or completely, will it be a good choice. I have used different finishes in the past with okay results. I really wish to find a finish that will hold up to making bread and things like that. However, I would like something that would hold up as long as a sharp tool isn't used to cut the dough.
Beautiful
3 questions please, but first, great video at the right time! Scenario... I am making a spalted maple live slab kitchen bar top and am struggling with how to finish it. Based on this video I assume this would be a good choice. Q#1. Is that true? My first thought was epoxy because of the “no wet worries” haha protection it provides and, well, my family isn’t the cleanest in the world. Q#2. For a kitchen bar top at home, what are the other “best” protective finishing options are there? Ones with a combo of natural look and protection. Q#3. Also, what should I do to the bottom of the slab? Any finish at all or sand and leave it bare?
Any wooden countertop is going to take some care as compared to granite or concrete. An epoxy finish will make it much more durable, but the trade off is it looks like plastic. And to me, it makes no sense to use wood if you're going to cover it in plastic. So, if you use Arm-R-Seal, be aware of the limitations... As for the bottom, I usually put three coats on both sides.
Stumpy Nubs thank you very much!
Okay ... I've got a birch counter top and will give this a try !!! Along the same lines, can you recommend a finish for an ash T&G floor?