The LIES and confusion of Tung Oil wood finish
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2021
- Sorting through the mess of contradictory information about what should be a simple subject
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hi, i know this probably isnt the best place to ask, but ive been working on some hickory walkin/self-defense canes. its been recommended to me that i use tung oil for several reasons. my biggest concern is preventing scratches from makin it to the wood. i guess im askin if a total newbie will have issues with tung oil and if theres a better option for protecting the wood as well as lookin gud*not lookin to use acrylic
Oh, it's "tung." I've been licking them.
Thanks for the info! Is sanding sufficient before applying tung oil? Or do you need to use a wood cleaner before sending and applying? Thanks again!
Hey Stumpy, noob question here: if it takes a long time for 100% to soak in, why would you wipe off the excess? Why not just let it sit?
@@bruinflight1 do
UA-cam is so weird, i don't have a shop, i don't work with wood or anything like that, i still got recommended this video and fully watched it from start to finish, i will never use this information for anything whatsoever, but he was so good at explaining that i kept listening.
You'll be amazed at yourself a few years from now when the subject of oils on wood pops up inexplicably. You'll rattle off what you heard here and your friends will be amazed you know such things.
Trust me; It will happen.
Me too.
Proof that AI at this time is all A and no I!
Haha same.
Now I just have to wait for someone to raise the subject of Tung oil, and I can chip in "Actually..."
You might ever buy furniture finished with tung oil, you might otherwise maintain someone else's furniture with tung oil. I'm just trying to be contrarian.
"Made from the nuts of the Tung tree, which doesn't hurt at all". You, sir, are a very underrated humorist. Thanks for the links and thanks for posting.
You beat me to it... sure sounds like it hurts, though.
Don't be too hasty. We haven't heard from the Tungs on this....
ha ha ha ha ha
and not even a break in the presentation either.
I had to rewind to be sure that’s what he said. Perfect low key delivery.
Dude, you should be the one to make all instructional videos for all subjects on UA-cam. Your perspective, preparation and speaking techniques are first-class all the way! Congratulations and thank you!
I second that. I would welcome any instruction from him. He has the best delivery from anyone I have ever seen on UA-cam. Bravo!
"Jack of all trades; master of none". Is that really what you want from this channel?
@@allanshpeley4284 as a DIY homeowner, YES. I still listen to other videos for a different perspective.
@@lightworker4512 Hey, me too. But to be clear I was just saying that one person can't possibly cover *all* subjects. I've just stumbled onto this channel recently and have benefited from some great woodworking advice. But I don't think I'd take accounting or mountain biking advice from an expert woodworker.
I concur with the compliments about how well done this video was -- great explanations and important illustration with materials, great choice of information to include (loved the historical references), clearly spoken, and even a little humor! Just one suggestion: you look a little short on tools, so perhaps get some more for the background before your next video. 😉😂
Thanks for taking the time to do this to inform the rest of us!
I too worked in a family hardware store in my 20's. All I ever knew about tung oil was what was on the can. I feel like I know 1000% more after this video. I really appreciate how you spell things out without talking down to the audience. We need more people with skills like this in the world.
I absolutely agree 100%
After seeing this video, I would go with a blended Tung Oil product to ensure quicker drying and, in most applications, a harder finish w/ more resins to provide a harder, more durable finish...I've seen those old, antique kinda crinkled up finishes that I thought looked like a mistake. Now I know why...
I really appreciate you taking the time and energy to help break down such a confusing subject. It's practically a public service! 😉
Yes, I agree, he is doing US a favor!! I have breathing issues, I don't want toxic chemicals in my home! 😩
I have an oak entrance door directly in the harsh sun, and rain. It was finished with varnish and had to be sanded and coated every year, till i tried pure tung oil. Now, it is to my surprise looks new every day and withstand all weather much better than varnish. I will continue to oil every year just by light sanding and Tung oil again. It is much more beautiful and resistant.
Wow! An added tip at no extra charge. Thanks! 👍
Wow. After watching your video. I realized I have nothing but time for a beautiful natural tung oil finish for the old barn wood shelves that I am about to put together......nothing but time.
Thank you.
This is spot on, and agrees with the extensive research I had to do about 15 years ago when applying finish to a new M1 Garand rifle stock, which was made of nice dark, dense walnut. I used pure Tung Oil, applied it moderately thick and let it soak for an hour, wiping it every 20 minutes or so to saturate evenly. Wiped off excess and let it sit for ten days. Repeated that cycle for seven coats, I used 600 grit between, not sure how much that matters in the end. It took a ton of oil and the final result was impressive. When all the coats were done I gave it a buffing, a very light application of natural carnauba wax, and buffed it out again. Water beads and slips off like a car hood, but it isn't slippery in the hands. Maintaining the wax finish every time out in the field keeps it in great condition. Yeah it took almost three months, but time well invested.
Results you could get in an hour with a catalyzed hard wax. But that’s not why we’re here. I’m making tung oil wax blends using beeswax and carnauba.
I was first exposed to Tung Oil as a finish back in the late 70's while working as a cabinet shop manager. We had a joe building stereo speaker cabinets and the person who had us building the cabinets specified the Tung Oil finish for them. He worked as a engineer for Chrysler in their trim plant and he had taken all readily available wood finishes and made test samples that were placed inside the climate chamber at the plant and were exposed to freezing cold all the way to extremely hot climates and the whole spectrum of humidity. Of all the finishes tested the Tung Oil was the only one not effected by the wide range of climate conditions. It was easy to apply and I always recommend it as a great finish for people just starting out. The trick to Tung Oil is you MUST read the label on the container to assure you are getting pure Tung Oil. Nothing else will do. Tung Oil rules!!
If this is true, I will add this to my Woodworking Bible, the Gospel of James, Chapter: The Parable of the Tung Oil
That is correct. How about warming the oil to thin it and make it soak in quicker, perhaps microwave tung oil first.
@@scottdowney4318 Pure Tung oil is flammable, even the rags you use to apply it should be cleaned because of spontaneous combustion that can be caused by tung oil... Be very careful if you decide to heat it. 'Super heating' it polymerizes it, making it dry quicker after application. But, you can buy tung oil that has already been super heated, so you don't have to risk heating it yourself.
@@TroyIson The last time I heard this story, it was Linseed oil, not Tung oil.
@@scottdowney4318 I frequently heat oils and finishes to thin them... My personal favorite thing is a heat resilient bowl on a "Beverage Warmer" (aka "Cup Warmer")... The newer ones with TWO settings usually run at 120 F and 150 F so you have a pretty solid control of temperature without exposing the oil to potential ignition...
IF you're in a hurry, the bowl of oil can be floated on water in a pot on your stove. Tongs remove the risk of burning fingers while steadying the bowl, and the water can even simmer or almost boil... A normal spoon or even a popsicle stick can be employed to stir the stuff, and will help you judge when it's sufficiently hot.
The pot of water puts some distance between the stove eye (or burner) and the oil... I'd advise you avoid an open flame, but if that's basically impossible, you CAN also get a "buffet burner" which is a single stove-eye on a platform with a cord and temperature control... There's no need to hazard the kitchen and your life cooking on a propane stove... AND with even a little ventilation, the oil's flammable vapors should dissipate before reaching a flammable content... BUT be sure the area is ventilated when you cook oils... there's always a risk...
You CAN also employ a thermometer in the water-pot. This lets you get the water as warm or hot as you wish, fiddle with the stove (or buffet burner) controls to stabilize it, and then set the bowl onto the water... This controls how rapidly as well as how hot you heat your oil... Candy-makers use this technique (called "double boiling") to avoid incinerating sugar when they only mean to melt it... The burning point of sugar is treacherously close to its melting point...
The big reason I rarely use a microwave is that just like grapes, there are occasionally "nefarious" contaminants in other things... Slice a grape in half and let the two halves touch in the microwave and you can develop plasma plumes!
Not going to accuse linseed or tung oil of having horrible sh*t in there that will wreck your microwave... BUT I'm hesitant to use it because I don't know the chemistry and I don't feel like taking the time to bother... while a cup warmer can be utilized just fine and only needs 8 - 10 Watts to do it... ;o)
Lot's of great information! I just want to add: Pure tung oil, like all natural products, varies somewhat from one batch to the next. This is one of the reasons it's so hard to say with any definity how long it will take to cure. Not only do you need to take into account temperature, humidity, and air movement, the type of wood, the oil in two different bottles of the same brand of pure tung oil may have different cure times. That's okay. We're dealing with a natural process and cannot rush it.
Look into the pre-polimerized stuff. Just as boiled linseed oil hardens quicker and harder, so does tung oil version.
If I'm doing hobby stuff for hobby reasons (or contracted specifically for product reasons) I often stick to natural finishes and enjoy that I have time to take...
If I'm in a rush, intent on getting something done and out the door, I go with Poly... Just clear-coat it worth whatever I'm building and kick its figurative ass out of the shop to be rid of it.
When it is about the contracted product, I'm careful that my client/customer is AWARE of whatever we're getting into before I start. I don't like "rush jobs"... I'm not going to compromise a promised product because some other idiot suddenly wants to get in a huff. I'll finish the thing and keep it first. ;o)
Amazing clarity in your explanation. No beating around the bush and blah blah, which 95% of UA-cam videos are.
As mentioned by another person, I wish you make videos on every subject. Thank you.
Man, I really appreciate your style of explanation! Your patient, thorough, and methodical ways tell me you truly understand your subject matter. Keep up the great work!
Einstein (or some other wise man) said something to the effect that, if you can’t explain it to a 4th grader, then you do not know your subject matter.
@@juliemac5640 Just curious but was Einstein ever able to explain his Special Relativity theory to a 4th grader?😆
I’ve must’ve watched this video 10 times. I have a small coffee table and want to use tung oil. I am going to go for it!
Restored oak library table with tung oil 45 years ago still in great shape.
Tell us jay
Did it work well on your table?
Tip: slow down the video and take notes. A couple of passes should do it.
@@riffdex I did end up using it. The grain looks better and have a golden/orange hue but I can’t comment on protection level since I don’t use the table heavily! The wood that I used is mulberry slab if that helps.
Pure tung oil should be used for food grade projects like cutting boards, while blends combine durability with overall less maintenance to keep the same appearance on items that aren’t normally in contact with food. The implication that your getting something less only adds to the confusion.
I use mineral oil for cutting boards.
The distinction between “adding to a first coat” and “adding a second coat” was very helpful
That hit hard.
It's always a pleasure watching (and listening to) your videos. Al though I'm an "old boy" myself now, I still learn new stuff thanks to your very well documented reports.
As to the question of oil finishes, as a cabinet maker myself, I once met an instrument maker and restorer (baroque clarinettes, flutes ,and oboes) in Paris. He used to submerge his wooden "blanks" (unfinished blocks of wood) in different oils for up to two years!! He showed me a future baroque boxwood mouthpiece that he had soaked for two years in sweet almond oil. Honestly, simply rubbing over a piece of wood with some oil will never penetrate like actually submerging it in the oil. Today everyone wants an "instant" or very quick finish. I've done French Polishing (Shellac) here in France for over three decades. The "real Mackoy" takes about six months to do a genuine French Polish job- two to three seasons. At nearly 65 I now prefer oil finishes. I still think soakings the best method. In which case it would be better to slightly dilute the oil solution for better penetration.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Greetings from France.
Thank you, James. It is very pleasant, in our current environment, to hear someone cut through the B.S. and just tell the plain truth about something. No obfuscation, no diversion to self-interests - just plain talk and honesty. Very refreshing. Thank you.
"If the sandpaper gums up, it's not dry ..." great tip.
Missing information - "Can you over coat Pure Tung Oil with harder finishes, like Estapol ?"
"From the nuts of a Tung tree......and it doesn't hurt at all......." Most "dad" joke I've heard this week. Bravo....my hat is off to you!
God damn Stumpy, why can't all the tutorials be like yours, concise but vastly informative, casual but assertive with authority, humble but confident, informal yet eloquent, broad in scope but also focused in purpose, opinionated while still honest and without the taint of bias, a presentation of your obvious mastery of the products conveyed with your obvious mastery of the spoken word, and best of all for me personally, no f****** stuttering, no "like" and "uh" said a million f***** times, no wasting of the viewers time with dead air and bullshit... holy shit I appreciate your efforts Stumps and i'm guessing everyone else here does too, you definitely have a new sub from me, way to kick ass Nubs, thanks for the knowledge... no... thanks for the wisdom big guy
Why would somebody downvote this? Seriously,, this is valuable content. I learned a ton just from this one video. I don't understand people sometimes.
Maybe they weren't really listening or didn't quite hear what they needed? Good question tho. I really got alot from it too.
"Doesn't hurt at all" Hey I'm drinking coffee here!
And applying a thin coat of coffee to your screen perhaps?
@@DreadX10 pixel preservation.😂
Westerners... ;P
For those who want to use the pure orange oil, d-limonene is what you are after. I do 75% d-limonene and 25% tung oil. I use the same as stumpy does here. Then each coat I change the ratio until the last is pure tung.
This is close to what I do, but I do 75% first, then 50/50, then 25%. I get the tung oil from real milk paint, but the solvent in bulk so its cheaper.
I really appreciate you sharing your process and ratio, just curious how waterproof is this finish, will water rings appear from glass cups if I follow your ratio?
Where do you get your d-limonene from? (and what brand)
@@lannyhsu708 I order it on Amazon. I forget the brand. It's some kind of food grade stuff. They actually sell it as a dietary supplement. Although, I'm not sure I would eat it.
How long do you wait between coats of 75/25? I've got the dlimonene and was thinking 50/50.
I’ve been finishing wood for 60 years and didn’t know this. Mostly used Deft (Lacquer), waterspar varnish, shellac, polyurethane. For gun stocks I like the harder, more durable finish of poly blends and multiple coats, sanded in between. But sometimes I still use a Linseed Oil blend (True Oil) that dries quickly, if the customer wants a “hand rubbed oil” finish, usually 6-10 coats, polished to a high gloss with 4-ought steel wool. Thanks very much!
Several years ago I needed a shift knob for my Dakota. I turned one up from glued-up walnut and cherry. It was finished in seven or eight coats of pure tung oil, with the first couple coats getting thinned 50%, then 25% with citrus oil. The finish has never been updated or maintained, other than occasional cleaning. It's still doing fine, with daily use and wear.
The constant handling also acts like a burnishing process that will polish the soaked in polymerized oil. I usually put wax over tung oil after a 30 day cure
You explained it well enough that I don't think I need to use tung oil. There are so many excellent finishes which result in great beauty that seem to me much simpler to apply.
Hey Ken......can you give me some examples?????? For gun stocks..... Ive always used tung oil......but found it can get tacky after holding on to it for a while. Kinda a newb here.... but been around for a while!!! Any info you have would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!
@@n8sot Brian, I am hardly an expert in finishing but I often use polyurethane, Danish Oil or boiled linseed oil. I haven't finished a stock. It is very satisfying to hand rub a smooth hardwood finish.. Good luck.
@@kencoleman7762 Thanks Ken!! Ive learned....the more you hand rub....the warmer it gets... and the better the penetration. Thanks for verifying!!!
@@n8sot sounds to me you're confusing carpentry with sex
For my butcher block countertops I used a 50/50 blend of pure tung oil and d-limonene orange oil solvent that I bought separately and mixed together. Did 4 coats with ~12 hours between each, and I've been very happy with it, completely food safe and has been very water and stain resistant.
Thanks for sharing that info; I was thinking of using that blend but wondering about exactly what you included-dry time, number of coats, and water resistance!
Thanks for posting !
I’ve heard you can re-coat this 50/50 mix in a short time. I waited a day for the second coat and after a month it won’t dry. Still waiting to sand and recoat.
@@tommybarrow5849 Perhaps what it under, ie the 1st coat or before is preventing the 2nd from drying.
Sand all the coats off, steel wool or plastic pad.
Scrapers work well for this operation.
@@tommybarrow5849 it might have to do with how you applied it, what I did was apply a generous layer with a shop towel until the whole surface was well saturated and wet looking, then went back a minute later with dry shop towels and dried off as much as possible until I couldn't see the wet sheen anymore. Then repeated every 12 hours 3 more times. The final coat did take probably a week until it stopped leeching oil onto things I set on the countertop and the strong smell went away.
Nice job!
Given this is supposed to “clear up the lies” I would like to add that the picture of the tung tree and nuts in the beginning is not actually Vernica Fordii (tung tree). The picture is in fact of Aleuritas Moluccana (candle nut). The two look similar but vernica fordii has a very different flower.
Besides that it was a nice presentation.
I remember a can labeled "tung oil finish" that had zero tung oil in it. Very much like Sara Lee's "lite" desserts, which actually had *more* calories than the regular version; the corporate rep said that "lite" referred to the texture of the product.
same thing goes for THIN MINTS, ate a pack and didn't get s bit thinner.....
Wow. Lite foods with more calories. Shaking my head at that one.
my first attempt was with similar garbage, looked awful and I stripped it all off and started over. if not for YT I probably never would have learned the difference. Now I'm a believer, and every 3 months it's easy to hit all the pieces with a pad. nothing else.
"Lite" = "We replaced a bunch of the fat with a bunch of sugar".
HORSE PUCKY!! HOW 'BOUT SOME SNAKE OIL!!
"Raise the grain with damp cloth first" didnt know this, thank you 🙏👍
I recently completed a project with pure tung oil and I learned the following things:
1. Don't put your work in the sun while the oil is curing. The wet areas can crinkle and turn into a gummy mess
2. You can use steel wool to apply it or also a finishing pad. That works it in without the mess of sandpaper.
3. I thought Tung was beautiful on walnut until I applied it to redwood. Wow.
4. You can use Tung just for color like on figured walnut and then apply a lacquer or shellac on top to get a higher gloss sheen, just wait at least a week for it to fully cure.
5. I've never seen pure tung oil in a hardware store.
6. Pine. No. Just no.
I just apply tung oil om my pine board then i read your comment. you should be talking about the color of pine wood after applying tung oil on it right? =))
Thanks for your humorous addition.
Do you indeed need to refresh it every few months to keep it looking killer?
@@adamcoe If it's furniture, let the tung oil cure, then use a hard carnauba paste wax and buff it well.
Repeat the buffing as needed, and when buffing doesn't restore the shine, re-apply the wax.
I like pine but if I’m finishing a piece of pine I like polyurethane
This video makes a lot of sense.
Many products were developed for the 'impatient'.
So more solvent, resins and a little tung oil.
It's like not all the products that are advertised as milk are really milk!
YOU are a genius. If people applied your sort of rational thinking to everything, there would be more harmony in the world.
And far less communists/socialists.
I'm deep in a late-night relaxing woodworker UA-cam binge and this is some primo ish.
This was a great presentation! I've been using pure tung oil on most of my turning projects over the last 8 years and I love it. But, I did have to learn that tung oil takes time to properly harden. I wish I had seen this video when I started turning. I have one lidded box that I turned out of cherry burl that by the time I was "done" with it had more than 60 coats on it and it absolutely glowed! I didn't want to give it up after that, but I had turned it for a friend's daughter's 16th birthday (it would have been nice if my buddy told me more than the day before her party!). Anyway, I quickly got the box and lid turned and fitted, gave it to her and then took it back! I told her I needed to finish it and she looked at me kind of weird, but gave it back. I brought it home and over the next year I applied and reapplied and reapplied etc etc every few days or until the previous coat was hard. I had a couple of wood worker friends tell me there was no way that was pure tung oil... but I know it was and I know how much time I put into it. When I gave it back to her, she loved it, so I guess I am ok with having given it up. That was the most coats I've ever put on a project. Maybe I'll try for a 100 coat project at some point, but that will take a couple of years the way I do it! I should ask the gift recipient for a picture of the box since I totally forgot to take one before handing it over!
Rick in NH
This was so helpful. Only regret is I didn't see it BEFORE I started my project. Now I know for future projects!
I always enjoy the finish videos, clears up so much confusion for me and helps me pick the right finish for the job/project I need to get done. Thank you for this video.
I’m in the process of giving a refinished Les Paul a Tung Oil finish. I used Tung Oil on quite a few necks already. It’s the first time I’m using it on a whole body. Your video helped me a lot, in regards to being patient with adding new coats. Really appreciate your explanations! Best wishes from Germany :)
I been using tung oil all my life.I use two coats pure tung oil and then a coat of Johnson’s paste wax then buff.Beautiful finish!
The oldest document mentioning Tung oil is dated around 2600 BC from China and talks of it used in ship building sealing the hull, they say 2 to 6 weeks to cure depending on the weather.
Facts!
Another great video. It seems like every video you make is better than the last and all of them filled with great information. Keep em rolling Stumpy.
I love your videos. You have a deep knowledge of what you are talking about. The content is easy to digest and gets to the point, the editing and overall quality is also excellent! Glad I found you, a supporter from Barcelona!
This was so helpful for me! Thanks for taking the time to put it together!
James, I know it might take a while, but it would be nice to see what that pure tung oil finish looks like after each successive coat for 3 or 4 coats. I've used what I *thought* was tung oil before and didn't see the big deal. Be nice to see it done properly.
It's my finish of choice for indoor items as it holds up poorly to weather.
The big deal is that it looks obviously natural, and is natural. It compliments wood. It's super easy to apply and refinish. Putting anything synthetic on high quality wood, unless it's an epoxy top, seems like a sin. I just can't do it. Never had complaints.
@@dherman0001 I really dislike shiny finishes and have been thinking of using tung oil on some projects, including a speaker build with pine and my father is replacing a gunstock with cherry for me, I want to use tung oil on that as well. What do you think of these applications and how far does 16oz go? Thanks in advance if you are able to answer.
I don't know anyone that actually has even heard of pure tung oil, so any input from an outside source would be great.
@@mcbaine3793 I use satin
Perfect timing for an upcoming project. I'd like to see more videos from you about other natural finishes, cheers!
Excellent points. I own all of these products and have told folks the same thing. I like to use caranuba wax after the month it takes to get a build as wax is quicker to maintain. Every few years or depending on wear I'll strip the wax with mineral spirits and coat with more ting then thin wax coat again.
Less is more and you're right that only some oils don't get rancid or eventually form a film.
Have you ever colored your wax for use on open and semi open species?
Folks love the look of these thin finishes because the porosity of the finished surface lends a natural satin quality.
I still use this process on vintage Scandi-modern peices and artisan made heirlooms
Great subject matter, great presentations, and great flow of information! Glad I found your channel. Nothing is as valuable as good information!
I love pure tung oil, but I have had to wait over a week for it to dry before. It was worth the wait.
Several years ago, I inherited a small round antique lamp table. The top was veneer, split 4 ways, with an inlaid edge… beautiful. Except that the old finish had failed. I carefully stripped off the old finish and applied a 100% T’ung oil finish, which I had never before used. Was surprised how long it took to dry. Put on subsequent coats at 5-day intervals, polished it with 0000 steelwool and applied several coats of paste wax. It is absolutely gorgeous! Very durable and seems water-resistant.
Hey man, can I use this finish on old mahogany burl veneer cabinets ? They had been shellac with a tint , but someone applied thick coats of poly and fucked it up. I have sanded and tried to shellac and polish but I just can’t get a nice finish .
I am very grateful for these well produced and informative videos. Thank you for creating them.
Hi, I showed your vid about helical cutter blocks to a student yesterday - I overheard him saying to another teacher that he'd 'learned heaps'.
Great presentation/delivery. I will recommend your channel to the class.
Regards from New Zealand
Great video, thank you. Simple rule of thumb to know if the tung oil is ready for the next coat: run your fingertips perpendicular to the grain. If you encounter any resistance, you need to wait. If your fingertips easily glide across the grain, you can apply another coat. As you mentioned, tung oil doesn’t actually “dry” like many other finishes. Rather, it reacts with oxygen to cure, as part of a chemical reaction. I found it takes 1-3 days before another coat of tung oil can be applied. That’s right, it’s difficult if not impossible for a professional to afford that as they need to turn work over much more rapidly. Tung oil is a beautiful finish in that it does not hide the grain and allows the wood to show through. It offers excellent service in that unlike finishes like polyurethane or acrylic, it can be spot repaired as opposed to needing to be completely sanded before refinishing
Wow this video was so excellent! Clear, straight to the point, and entertaining. I was so confused about the conflicting info out there on tung oil! I’m planning to use it for a bee hive and definitely need more time than I anticipated! Thank you 😊
I really enjoyed your presentation. Knowledgeable, great tips and you cleated up a ton of misconceptions. Thank you
Thank you so much for clearing up the confusion!
Exactly the kind of detailed explanation I have been looking for as a beginning woodworker. You definitely nailed all the different things I've been reading about all over the internet. This makes much more clear and concise sense. Thanks, I'll be watching more of your content for sure.
My wife applied tung oil to a cheap old table and chairs that we bought over 40+ years ago. About a month later, she applied the second coat - and - about a year later she added the third and final coat. We still have that table and chair set, but - it sits in the basement now. I just looked at it with a more critical eye after seeing this video. The finish is still in GREAT condition. There are two small gouges in the finish (kids) - but other than that, the tung oil held up amazingly well over all that time.
Thank you so much for this video! I was so confused watching the how to videos. But your detailed explanation really prepared me for my project
Loved it. I like these deep dives into subjects that require it.
Finishing my oak tabletop and this is exactly what I needed to see! Thank you for such a helpful video.
Just saw a video by the wood whisperer where he showed that flooding the wood with tung oil was at minimum, wasteful. He showed that flooding also, slows the curing and because the wood soaks up so much oil, could take months to cure. He suggests that working in thin coats is not only less wasteful but cures better. I have generally done the flood method but I plan to try the thin method on my current shop project. Still very interesting video.
Great video man! Felt the need to congratulate you on how articulate you were with the explanations. Glad to see people like you, who like spending more time to get things done properly, get their appreciation. Like you said, the latter are more than the former, but still, people who have the patience to go all the way through a process are still around. We just have to look. Plus, the ones who are in a rush are probably secretly jealous on the patient ones...haha. thanks and cheers!
Thanks James! My goto finish for most of my turned wood and shop cabinetry, benches etc., is Minwax Tung Oil finish. For stuff on the lathe I generally apply three coats, using the third coat as a lubricant to wet sand with 400 or 600 grt. I like how it responds to friction after wet sanding and will generally add a coat of minwax finishing paste wax to add more depth and lustre. Now I understand why I like what it does for me. Many thanks and stay safe. Cheers from BC!
Last year I finished two new walnut Garand rifle stocks, one in pure tung, the other in raw flaxseed oil (food grade linseed oil). These were not my first finishes in these oils so I had the benefit of prior experience. Both were built up to a very high gloss, but it took many coats. For the tung it was 14, for the flax it was more than one hundred. I like the flax better but it is certainly a lot more work. For the tung I recommend thinning the first several applications with mineral oil; the flax does not need thinning. The flax finish is a very forgiving process, but it's possible to ruin tung by not allowing complete drying between coats which can cause it to turn white. When that happens the only solution is to strip everything off and start again.
Since both of these oils are natural nut oils you simply rub them in by hand - no gloves or brushes needed, and clean up is simple.
Awesome tutorial, thanks for your clear and logical explanations. I’ll be spending quite a bit time now checking your other videos. I’m ditching all other UA-camrs and sticking with you, thanks mate, keep up the great work👍👏
What a splendid video. Clear, informative,unbiased, no BS. Thank you.
I have recently learned much from your numerous video tutorials, and am grateful for your sharing of your knowledge. I cannot overstate my appreciation for the way in which you stick to the subject, your articulate analysis of the variables, and real world woodworking experience. [..and I don’t even mind you pitching good products to help fund the videos: they do seem to be superior tools/blades/abrasives/etc.]
Thank you!!!
I and many other semi pros and novice natural wood finish aficionados appreciate the informative factual discussion and online seminar on Tung Oil finishes. Your video was a flash back to my "apprenticeship" with a senior from eastern Europe who married into a family of furniture makers from France and Spain. I remember coming to his shop behind his home and finding butcher blocks, tables and chairs brought to him by businesses owners and families who wanted genuine craftsmanship in maintaining, restoring and repairing these heirlooms.
One of my first projects in his shop was restoring the tung oil finish on two cutting boards belonging to two sisters in our neighborhood. The cutting boards were wedding gifts to these two sisters from their maternal Grandfather. It took almost TWO MONTHS to complete the restoration.
You were wonderful articulate and went right into everything I was wondering about. You explained things clearly and your demonstration helped me understand what I need to do. Thank you!
Love pure tung oil, it's what I use on my military rifle stocks (Real Milk Paint). Once a year after all the competitions are done, they all get a new coat (usually rubbed in with the warmth of my hand) to be ready for next year. I learned long ago anything that says "finish" on the can is not tung oil, just as you explained. Well done.
Hello! What you said, "refinishing RIFLE STOCKS", is exactly the info that I've been searching for. PROTECTION from Outdoor elements on a wood finish,,,, plus the use & abuse mixed in!
I just sanded the old factory finish (some kind of varnish?) off of a very old well-used rifle stock. It looks to be walnut. I'd love to bring out the grain & still have a durable waterproof (?) finish.
You said, '100% pure tung oil, hand rubbed in'. ?
In my youth, I watched the next door carpenter refinish his gun stocks while sitting on his living room couch. After sanding the 'factory finish' off, he would spend a WEEK on each stock,,, slowly rubbing in coat after coat, OF SOMETHING. I never knew exactly what he was using,,,, so the search begins.
Could you be kind enough to tell me what product you used?
How many coats,,,,, & do you lightly sand in-between coats??
ANY helpful info will be very appreciated! THANKS.
Thank you very much for making this very informative video, and for laying out the truth about this subject. I am a Gunsmith and I used to use Formaby's Tung Oil for years on gun stocks for refinishing. I Didn't Realize that it wasn't Pure Tung Oil. In recent years I have used a blend of half Formaby's and half Boiled Linseed Oil. An older Gunsmith I know told me thats what he uses, and his stock work is superb, so I switched to that mixture instead. You have gained a subscriber and a fan!
This was a one stop for absolutely everything I needed to know about tung oil
I used Minx Tung Oil on my horribly weathered 35 year old wooden window frames and it seems to work quite well. I clean the surfaces, apply a coat, apply more as it soaks into spots and then wait a day to apply a second coat. The finish lasts several years and then requires only a quick rag applied coat which maintains gloss for a couple more years.
Great explanation and presentation. It was very clear, concise and interesting. Thank you.
This was an absolutely excellent video and I got a lot out of it, thank you very much for taking the time to make this. I am smarter for having watched this and I appreciate it!
Ah, thanks for this!
I've been researching food safe finishes to dabble in because I don't really want to deal with the stuff that has solvents and dryers in it and was really confused about tung oil
Thank you so much. I didn't realize or just thinking about there being a different make up of the different oils. I'm a weekend warrior for the most part but I have been doing tung oil and polyurethane finishes most of my life. Now it makes sense on the different finishes I have gotten over the years.
I've watched three of your vids already today; you are a clear and concise communicator, which I admire and appreciate.
I’m a professional decorator for 25 yrs and I didn’t know this - nice video!
I'd love to send you a same of my homemade finish "Tung Wax" I sell it on my etsy, mostly for turning but I use it on my flat work when a food safe finish is needed. I use only pure tung oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax. 👍
Post a linky... I'd love to try it out!!
@@MykelObvious lol its bad enough this is borderline self promotion on someone elses video, I wouldn't feel right goin quite that far. But if you want to swing by my channel, you can see some videos on it and always a link in the description 👍
I sadly spent the first 30 seconds staring at the background going "I wish I had that for zoom. Look, no artifacts... it's so peaceful..."
Im enjoying your various vids on finishes. I see Homer Formsbys on the table. Decades ago I used it on a rifle stock. Loved it . I can't find it now. I shall keep watching.
I've been using Tung for years. This guy is the best Tung oil guru on YT.
More great info, James. Thanks. It would be interesting to run that piece through a drum sander or light passes on the planer to see exactly how deep the finish goes. Take care.
Bill
Wish I had seen this video before purchasing Tung oil. I've put a first layer down on an axe handle waited 10 minutes and wiped then let it dry from a week and done the same thing the second time. I'm also doing the same with Boiled linseed oil on another axe handle to see the difference and figure out which one I want to use on an expensive curly birch knife handle.
Thank you. Your videos are so much more than informative, they are really educational.
Great presenter. Very clear and easy to understand!
I've done a 100% pure tung oil finish on my rifle stock and my spade shovel handle... Trust me, it'll take a bit but since I live in the South the heat helps and dries about 5~7ish days. 5 coats seems to be quite perfect for durability and some water proofing qualities. Looks lovely too.
Would recommend a 50/50 mixture of pure tung oil and Citrus solvent or turpentine depending what you have for quicker drying.
Thanks James, as always, well presented and informative. I used the same Wood River Tung oil a couple of weeks ago for the first time, it took only three days to dry, at least I considered it dry since my sand paper didn't clog up. I really like it now. Thanks again for some useful insight into another confusing finish. Hope you are doing well.
Thank you, not just for this video, but for all of them. I find them so instructive. Thank you.
You are a very good instructor. Easy to follow and understand.
Thanks for the clarification. I used the “tung oil” that came with a Formby’s refinishing kit on 1/4 round toe molding I installed when I re-did a living room, dining room, new family room and entrance foyer. (A lot of toe molding!) The amber color was a perfect highlight to the tile & carpet we (she) selected. I applied 4 or 5 coats, assembly line style, to the new trim before cutting and fitting it. After install, it was easy to touch up any raw edges. The finish dried hard & took very little maintenance. And scuffs & scrapes were easy to touch up & blend.
Now I know that if I had used pure tung oil, I would have had a mess on my hands!
Hey Steven is toe moulding what I would call skirting board, it goes round the inside of your walls at floor level? One more question do you need to keep applying it after installation? Thanks.
Glad you address this! Learned something today! Ty
That was the most comprehensive explanation and demo I've seen. Very helpful.
This is an outstanding video on an outstanding channel. I wish my chemistry professor had explained things as clearly yet comprehensively we see here.
Really well presented and helped clarify my understanding of Tung Oil. And I learnt there's a thing called pure Orange Oil. Definitely will check that out. Thanks.
Spot on...the sandpaper full of uncured finish is the point people should really take away from this. No matter what finish they are using.
Over reduce first coat of any oil finish to achieve good penetration. Warm place with plenty of air flow will help. But as my wife knows. Once the finishing starts, we are still weeks away
"But as my wife knows. Once the finishing starts, we are still weeks away"
I know what you meant, but this sounded amusingly like a boost about your legendary tantric stamina.
I did 7 coats of a blend product. 48 hours between each heavy coat. For my oak stairs. 10 years later still look amazing
Great video! I love that you just state the facts and clear the confusion rather than bash one product or the other. Well done!