In my humble opinion (I have been at this for 65 years) this instructor/teacher is one of the top three on UA-cam. Sincere, thorough, to the point and keeping it simple.
You hit it on the head and it has the feel of a pbs show. It was done great and has all the hallmarks of being professionally written. With the I'm just about to tell you but hold on technique and was worth not fast forwarding.
@@Macron87 Don't be confused. It his humble opinion about the three best instructors. He also stating his background which serves as the basis of his opinion. I do not qualify to form that humble opinion about the three best instructors. I can only comment on this video and it's my impression that this instructor is really good! I was able to understand and learn something that I didn't had a clue about! I like his delivery without superfluous ranting and the presentation was very logical for me to follow!
I’m a resident physician, meaning I’ve spent about 20,000 hours over the last 10 years learning from thousands of the most educated and intelligent people on the planet. And this man is easily among the top 1 or 2 teachers I’ve ever encountered. Articulate, interesting, technically precise yet simple language and concise.
As a retired painter (42 years in the trade) I completely agree with reading the back label of coatings and still do to this day. I always pour the product from the front side of the label as to not obscure the info on the back. I would like to caution persons on the proper drying and disposal of wiping rags, whether solvent-based finishes as well as solvent-based stains including especially linseed oil. ALL RAGS MUST BE LAID OR HUNG FLAT TO DRY COMPLETELY BEFORE DISPOSAL TO AVOID SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION, once dry and hard, can be thrown in the trash.
It's a good warning. Most reactive finishes produce exothermic reactions as they cure. This is especially true of (but not limited to) reactive finishes containing linseed oil.
Both excellent points and good reminders. I habitually pour incorrectly and cannot read back label anymore! In my inexperience years ago, I stuffed stripper chemical rags into a small open trash bin and it caught on fire! I was so surprised. Learned my lesson. I let them dry out now before throwing into an OPEN trash container for at least 1 day.
This has the feel of a pbs show. It was done great and has all the hallmarks of being professionally written. With the I'm just about to tell you but hold on technique and was worth not fast forwarding. We are blessed to have you making these videos.
I am a retired chemist who had to deal with thousands of MSDS document. Just loved your compilation of possible toxic consequences, but especially the “Finishing Phobia “ at the end of the list.
As a "book-smart" engineer struggling to get into the very "real-world" art of woodworking I appreciate the comprehensive information given in these videos. The thorough discussion of the terminology, mechanics, chemistry, and theory behind what is being done helps me retain and compile the information as more than just a series of disjointed wood facts or recommendations. These are long videos but in the end I learn far more in 30 minutes here than watching ten 3-minute videos on the same topic. Thank you for your work Sir!
You should know that this is the most informative and easy to understand demonstration of different finishes on the entire platform of UA-cam. Thanks for what you do, it helps thousands of people be more comfortable with their creativity🤘
Believe me, My girlfriend and I must’ve watched about 16 videos about finishing and stains; and I must add that watching yours, I got a heck of a lot more knowledge than watching those 16 videos. So; we would like to thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experiences. You’re a great teacher Sir. Even though I don’t know much about woodworking and stains and finishes, I was able to pick up everything you said on this video; and I’m sure I’ll be using the knowledge I received from you, very soon. GOD bless you my friend, and again; thank you so much for this beautiful video. I’ve just subscribed to your UA-cam channel. I can’t wait to see what else you have in your channel. Peace!
You, sir, are an absolute hero! I am a housewife in a 125yr old farmhouse full of old and abused woodwork. I am trying to save it, but I never got a woodshop class (and I constantly kick myself for that misstep). Everything I know is from helpers at the local mill, my own trial with too much error, and the internet... And unfortunately the latter can be very untrustworthy. I came here to find out how to salvage my recently discovered red oak beadboard that had been painted, glued and then hidden beneath wall panelling after the former residents gave up on it. Obviously, its damaged, but after stripping and cleaning, using oxalic acid for the many stains, now I am at a loss. You are a saint for producing this detailed instructional video that tells me all the options and pros/cons.
During my years as a craftsman, I have brought a good many run-down houses, from log cabins to Victorian mini-mansions, back from the brink of collapse. There are few things more soul-satisfying that breathing new life into an old home. Send me some close up photos of your damaged beadboard through our web site, www.workshopsmompanion.com, and I'll make a few suggestions.
Don’t kick yourself too much. Girls were actively discouraged from taking woodshop because the belief was that we would, at best, be an annoyance in class. At worst they believed we’d be a liability. I was the only girl that signed up for woodshop as an elective in elementary school, and was placed into a corner with a bunch of a scraps and some wood glue, while the boys learned how to use the dangerous equipment safely, and made furniture. I made some cute doll furniture that semester, but learned nothing and felt actively pushed out even when I had gone to the trouble of signing up for the course. In high school I didn’t even bother signing up for the woodshop courses after that experience. There were no girls in those classes back then. I agree that I wish I had this knowledge and am grateful to UA-camrs like Workshop Companion for sharing this info ❤
@@Accountdeactivated_1986 when I was in junior high girls were not allowed to take shop classes, we had to take home ec - cooking and sewing. When I got to high school I was allowed to take electronics. I was the only girl in the class. It was awesome. I am STILL mad I wasn't allowed to take wood and metal shop.
What a fantastic, well thought out and delivered educational presentation! Please do the woodworking community a huge blessing and NEVER Stop the level and quality of your sharing. With all sincerity…..Thank You!
Wow. Just wow. I have watched A lot of UA-cam videos on a variety of subjects. And this stands out as one of the best put together, No nonsense, no stupid anecdotes, well informed, and pertinent videos I have ever seen. And honestly, I don’t say that lightly. Thank you so much, you’ve got a new subscriber!
I am only six minutes into this video and I can already tell that this presenter is exceptionally knowledgeable and skilled at teaching. The information clarity and density here is remarkable.
I am a scientist so I must applaud your approach to teaching people the different factors that affect wood refinishing. Your presentation was logical, extensive and informative. Yet, in the end, you focused on the most important factor which was to advise people to include their personal preferences when choosing a finish. Well done and enjoyable.
Great video, though I was surprised to not see the finish you usually use in the comparison. It would have been interesting to see how you treated it in each of the metrics and to see a sample finished with it.
I just watched this video, I feel like I went to seminar on wood finishing! Loved this video! I learned so much more than what I thought I knew!, I am 74 years old and have been refinishing furniture since I was 10! My granny taught me! Thank you so much!!!! ❤️🌻❤️
Nick, I worked as a Industrial Coatings Rep. for a major paint/coatings company for almost 10 years. Your explanation of coating chemistry was GREAT. Everyone should understand that part because then they can properly evaluate any product for coating/painting/finishing anything. The only other thing that I would add or emphasize is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. You would be amazed at how much effort goes into the instructions that go on the can and very few people read it, then complain when the finish doesn't work like they wanted it to. But, a fantastic video. Keep up the good work.
I owe my understanding of coating chemistry to the patient folks at Mohawk and Minwax; you guys are beyond helpful. As for your second suggestion, see 19:15
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen on youtube on any topic. Very well done! So clearly explained and funny too, exactly what I was looking for :)
Your presentation is incredible. Very informative. Interesting to listen to. I couldn't have imagined I would enjoying watching a half hour on finishes so much. Well done sir and thank you for your hard work and for making this video and presenting the results.
I'm not even a wood worker but boy do I love this guy's vibe. Thank you so much for providing all of this great information! Despite being even less than beginner status, I still learned a lot!!!
Hands down the most comprehensive and accessible video on wood finishing I've ever seen. That mixture of information, production quality and on screen charisma is not easy to pull off. Thank you, sir. Much appreciated.
I can say I have never learned so much and enjoyed a lesson more on a topic that I’m not even sure why I stopped to look at. But I am glad - this instructor is amazing. Thorough, orderly, not only explaining how to do something, but why you do it in the order that you do it. Everything was very detailed, thorough and understandable- impressive. If every teacher could this good, we would never outgrow learning!
I'm a budget crafter I make small wooden trinkets. I got given a small bottle of a mix of tung oil and citrus oil. It takes a while to dry but but dries reasonably hard and has a nice satin finish or a bit more glossy if I keep polishing it while drying. It also smells like oranges :D
If I might interject, if you are currently doing the application and buffing sand gloves you'll want to be careful about continuing to do so. The 'citrus solvent' is limonene and it's a known sensitiser, and will become increasingly so as the remaining finish in the container has a chance to react with air as the fluid level drops.
Unglaublich. Ich habe dutzende Öl-Videos gesehen aber Ihres ist das mit Abstand umfangreichste, unterhaltsamste, informativste und am tiefsten gehendes Video überhaupt. Es gab nicht eine Sekunde die langweilig war. Ihr Unterhaltungswert ist überragend. Die Erklärungen absolut gut. Verständlich und kurzweilig vermittelt. Sie sind wie eine Mischung aus Mythbusters und Albert Einstein ❤ Vielen vielen Dank für dieses unglaubliche Video. Werde es bestimmt noch mehrere Male anschauen. Die besten Grüße aus Deutschland
Thank you for this! As a beginner to woodworking, I can't tell you how valuable this video is to me. I'll be coming back to watch this many more times!
How to finish a piece is a subject that is so convoluted. I've bought so many finishes not always understanding the specific differences and dangers of each. Thank you so much for putting this in a completely comprehensive tutorial. I'm an instant fan and can't wait to see all your content. I'm sure I speak for many when I say after this video we are all better for it. Thank you
This video is outrageously pure excellence, this video has easily made my mind up to finish my Joystick box, Tung Oil with a small cup of varnish, the teachings in this video are just so good!!! Best Teacher on UA-cam and there are some good ones!!
Just out of curiosity are you going to use regular(natural) Tung oil with varnish or the Minwax variety? I ask because I’m curious about mixing regular tung oil with an oil poly, I’ve heard many mixing linseed oil with poly but always wanted to know if natural tung oil can be mixed too.
No fancy video editing techniques here- just straight and forward information. Videos like this are why I started watching UA-cam heavily. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Excellent presentation Nick. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again you are by far the most thorough, easy to understand, and informative teacher on UA-cam. Thank you for being you.
Wow, excellent information and techniques delivered in a most professional and meaningful manner. I learned a lot from this. Here is my own go to finish: First I prep the wood with an 80 grit sandpaper so the fibers are most porous. Spray with water and wipe down. Then I apply boiled linseed oil with a brush, wait 20 minutes then rub the excess off with a lint free cloth burnishing the oil into the rub. Let dry overnight then sand with 120 grit sandpaper. Reapply the BLO as before but using 4/0 steel wool pad instead of a brush. After 20 minutes rub off the oil and burnish into the wood aggressively with a clean dry cloth. Immediately follow with a coat of spar varnish or spar urethane. Finish with a good wax and buff.
You, sir, are a wizard and a wealth of information. As a beginner woodworker you have become my go-to resource for education and even inspiration. Thank you so much for taking the time. I know it’s a lot of work to both make the content and edit for posting. Your efforts are not in vain!
@@WorkshopCompanion I want to join Scott's opinion. Not only your content is very useful to me; there is something to make the difference: your techniques are well rationalized, allowing for variations, and are the most realistic.
Very helpful thank you. I buy a lot of second hand furniture and recently I've decided to try and learn how to spruce it up a bit. A lot of it is really great just has a lot of surface wear. I'm a craftsperson but I almost never really work with wood, and have only extremely basic woodworking knowledge. But the woodworking shop was just one door down from our studio and we were required to take at least one class there, so I'm extremely aware of the fact that none of this is ever as easy as it seems. The whole thing was kind of giving me decision paralysis, having it laid out very simply and analytically like this just makes everything much easier to process. Funny thing is information like this means that you usually end up at the exact same conclusion that you had arrived at from your own reading, you just feel much more confident in the fact that you actually made the right choice.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! You're the kind of instructor that all instructors should be! Sadly, instructors like you are extremely few and far apart! Keep up all the good work, as we need instructors like you. I read a number of comments after watching this video, and it appears nearly all appreciate all the hard work you put into your videos! God bless you, my friend!!!
I've been scouring UA-cam and the internet for knowledge and advice, this is easily the most informative, well presented source I've found so far. You can be sure I'll be watching every video you've posted now. :) Thanks so much. I'm going with a Danish Oil finish for a Walnut dowel contact staff, because you're right, it's subjective but now I know how to make an informed decision.
That was wonderful. Thanks. In my early years of refinishing, there was a shop with a few men just like you who would share their expertise and taught me so much. I really missed going there when the shop closed. Seems most of the wonderful small storefronts have disappeared. Listening to you today brought back those happy memories of learning from someone who loves what he does and is generous enough to share with others. Thanks again
I already liked you, but now After hearing that the super important section about understanding spreadsheets of your book is free I'm in love with your channel. You make good content, is concerned about health and is not a gatekeeper, what a Chad!
Wow! I have a beautiful little antique side table that I have been agonizing over refinishing. This helped so very much. Thank you for sharing your obvious expertise. Loved your warm, friendly approach. Great video!!
I appreciate that you labelled the video, I only wanted to see the results so it was nice to get straight to it while still keeping the in depth information for others who need it. Thanks for the video.
This video is really outstanding work. Your charm, humor, intelligence, ability to communicate, curiosity all come together into something really special. Well done. Seriously. And, thank you.
This is a complete video! Something rarely found on UA-cam. Thanks for such good information and I appreciate you taking what you were taught, and teaching us too.
The gold standard of informative YT videos! Genuinely amazing, both in terms of information, but also the presentation. You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
I think you'd be surprised at how boring it gets for woodworkers around here. There are long, long stretches of time where any student we might have would just have to twiddle their thumbs and watch the machinery rust while Travis stresses over the timing of a video or I sweat out the details of a script. But thanks for saying.
Wow. Just wow! What a thorough, interesting, well-thought-out and entertaining educational presentation on finishes. I learned a lot. My new favorite wood-working teacher on UA-cam. Thanks a million.
This channel is a treasure. Did you come to a finding on the elasticity of the finishes and how they hold up under seasonal movement? Just curious. I'll try Rudy's finish i'm betting it satisfies in that department.
It does. What I used to judge relative flexibility were the cotton cloths I used to wipe-off the finishes. Remember, I labeled each of these to avoid cross-contamination and they were all pretty well saturated with their respective finishes by the time the experiment concluded. I tested my ability to stretch the cloths a week afterwards, when most of the finishes were completely cured. Hope's Tung Oil and Tried & True Original Finish were, by far, the most flexible (although I doubt they were fully cured at that time). The least flexible was General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and Minwax Wipe-On Poly. But all the finishes I judged to have sufficient flexibility to expand and contract with normal wood movement.
As a general observation, _all_ finishes in good condition are flexible enough to withstand seasonal movement... otherwise they wouldn't withstand seasonal movement if you see what I'm getting at🙂 We don't commonly see stuff that's just a few years old with cracked finishes. It's well to remember as well, by being present finishes do limit the total movement by reducing the speed and severity of MC changes, as Nick mentions. Even finishes thought to be rigid and inflexible must be definition be _flexible enough_ (in the usual coat thicknesses used) otherwise they wouldn't last more than a year or two before cracks started showing up. But this doesn't last forever, most finishes degrade as they age (primarily from UV but another major factor in furniture can be water intrusion) and in addition to the typical increase in amber/yellow-orange colouring, they become brittle. Given the small scale of possible movement we see this effect most strikingly on many old Stanley plane handles where the original film finish can craze spectacularly.
Could not agree with you more. After just 3 mins in I knew I had found something special. Thank you for sharing your amazing knowledge with us. The witty bits are quite enjoyable as well.
I am not get at woodworking, but have always enjoyed watching others work the craft. This video could easily be shown in a classroom for how it is laid out and the information given. I appreciate you taking the time to make something so professional.
Man, not only did I comfortably learn a lot about the topic when previously massively overwhelmed by it, I was really entertained too. This is what a youtube video should be. Thank you!
Thank you for all of the time and effort that you put into this well executed and concise video. I can only imagine how much time it took to do all of these experiments and then also all of the post recording video work. Well Done Sir!
I know nothing about wood finishing and what's what in all these finishes, so came searching as I built a camp box out of birch plywood that I now need to finish. This is hands down one of the best instructional videos - super clear, informative, and you have a really great presentation style. I'll be checking out more of your channel. Thanks for sharing.
I have a table top made out of Douglas fir, I want to turn it into a work table for my bakery, I watched tens of videos on how to finish it and read so many articles about the subject This video is the best I have seen
I'm just so glad to have found this. I'm just starting, at the mid of the roadmap. How the finish looks and feels will do a huge part for my pieces. Thank you!
This was truly superb. It's incredibly tightly edited, yet approachable and easily followed. The writing and presentation are exemplary, and the content is very useful. This was exceptional.
Thank you so much! I've been scouring the internet for ages. Then I found your site. YAY! I'm 67 year old woman doing some home renos. Recently sanded two tables but had no idea what finish to use. Thank you for the plethora of info. [I suspect I'm going to need your help with other tasks too]. SUBSCRIBED. ♥
Equal parts spar varnish, oil, and solvent. In the summer use tung oil and and in the winter boiled linseed oil. The recipe called for turpentine or mineral spirits but the latter doesn’t appear to be available today so a synthetic mineral spirit will do. Wipe on and wipe off. If the finish becomes too tacky wet your rag with a mineral spirits. Little rubbing between coats is necessary if a layer of thin shellac is applied between coats. #0000 steel wool can be used to knock down any dust nubs. Stained wood and open grained presents new challenges to finishing but the method of wipe on varnish and shellac sealing overcome these. Also, the build up of finish is much faster and the final top coat can be anything from a French polish to a satin sheen.
This recipe or a version is found in George Franks finishing book from the 1940's ? I believe. I have used this very successfully on red / yellow cedar for 40 years. It draws the varnish into the lower layers to really add surface hardness to an otherwise very soft wood. I am unfamiliar wiht the large ratio provided in the video, have always used a lot more varnish.
Thanks for this recipe, worth trying. I probably won’t use the shellac part though and just lightly scuff between costs. How long does this coat last / need to be redone?
I’m new to wood finishing and came across this video in my wandering search. I really enjoyed the education from start to “finish” and thought wow I learned a lot! Great teaching video! Thank you!
This was one of the most informative and entertaining videos I've watched in a long time, and I've watched a lot of woodworking videos. I think we think alike which is why I like these so much. You get to an age, where reading the directions, for example, might yield some valuable info from the very people who only built the very product you're too smart to read the instructions for! Excellent video, as always!
I have no knowledge or experience staining and/or finishing wood, but a recent small project taught me something. If you want to use Rudy's Wipe On Finish (discussed @ 25:20) be sure to use the oil based Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (as shown in the video). Minwax also sells a very similar product with near identical labeling but with the words "Water Based" added. The water based Spar Urethane does not mix well (if at all) with Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Because Tung Oil Finish is oil based? That would be my guess.
Yes, correct. Water based finishes are awful in my opinion. I only use oil based. One thing to note: Spar Varnish has more UV resistance than Spar Urethane but Urethane is easier.
Another Great presentation! I know you were trying to compare the "off the shelf" options but, I would have enjoyed seeing the results of your "Go To" finish side by side as well.
I think I'd go with the Minwax Antique Oil. Durability isn't quite so important in my situation and the depth and gloss it gave seemed the best of the bunch to me.
You sir are so pleasent to listen too, you are very thorough and dont skip any steps, i so much enjoy seeing and listening to this video that i regret when you ended it :D I learned so much from this, my only problem now is translating that to the danish marked for the oils we can get, even though i'm still very confused about all this, you did manage to get it to make some sense to me. I'm looking to darken the colour of my wood, and seal it so we can use it without leaving marks after cups and spillover - I will see this a few more times and try to put what i have learned into practice. Thank you
Great, important and useful video. Very well done. I believe polyurethane and ceramic are not water semi-permeable finishes. I use hardwax oil finishes for more and more projects that I do. I found Osmo better in terms of penetration, application and durability than the others, like Tried & True, although Ruby is excellent too. One of the critical factors is that a good hardwax oil is durable enough to use for high traffic wood flooring, leaves the wood grain feel, is maintainable like shellac where a new coat will adhere to prior ones, but unlike shellac it is much harder and is not dissolved or damaged by alcohol. I use a teflon pad to apply deeply, efficiently and even, while getting a grain burnishing effect that you do not get with a brush or wipe-on. I sometimes use ceramic or carbon nano-coats on top of the finish for scratch durability. However, ceramic nanocoats make damage repairs more difficult.
That sounds interesting, I never heard of those coatings. What brands are the ceramic and carbon nano-coats that you use? Are they more durable than say an oil poly? And how easy are they to apply?
Thanks for your content. One adition: The right oils do also react with oxigen and harden. E.g. linseed oil. The process takes time though. So, they do not "just sit there". Love your videos!
Really useful! Such a pleasure to hear the views and opinions of a true experienced craftsman. I feel like I have gained some depth of knowledge, rather than a single opinion/viewpoint. Thanks :) I would be most interested in your views on finishes such as hard wax (Osmo) and outliers such as Rubio Monocoat.
From what I've seen, Rubio is basically the choice high end woodworkers are going with now, especially for custom stuff. One thin coat, buff it in, dry and done. Maybe a super light sanding and a second coat to really be sure. Then a final application of a ceramic nano-coating product that basically completely eliminates water damage/staining. I'll note too that since it's a two-part, it only starts the clock on it going bad once it's mixed, and you can easily only mix enough for each project.
Thanks a lot! I am an amateur in this field and was very confused about which chemical to select which is easy- to -do, cheap and gives aesthetic results. Now I know what and how to look for the one I require .
Outstanding and humorous presentation on the subject! ..."another door to Narnia", classic. Your knowledge, passion and manner are some of the best I've seen on the channels. I watched, I laughed and I learned, ya' can't beat that! Just restarting my woodcraft journey back into desktops, cabinets and whatever my wife specs for me on the way. Looking forward to more of your wisdom Nick. Damn the MSDS hogwash, I'm putting some of this into my whiskey! Cheers! Carry on Sir.
For a specific sealing situation - a harmonica 'comb' - I settled on Watco Butcher Block finish, with pretty positive results. The pearwood was not very dense, and the shape gave no area more than 1/8" to permeate. I floated the comb in a small foil tray, careful to leave the top surface dry, so air could migrate out; after a few hours, the surface showed full penetration, and I took it out and wiped dry. Covering the tray to avoid pre-oxidation, I repeated the process two more times over four days, then let the comb air-cure for a couple weeks. The finish is an alkyd base, which cures by both initial solvent evaporation, then oxidation reaction with air, similar but much faster than classic linseed oil. After drying it is totally food safe, and has over time created the closest thing to a DIY resin-sealed wood that is very tough, more resonant than the dry wood, and yet did not warp compared to water soaking the same types of wood. I made small dowel spacers to avoid warping but mostly seemed unnecessary. Pre-sanding to shape lets the final coat leave a satin sheen that is appealing, but for food surfaces wiping excess off is preferable to striving for more gloss. For other wood, I've preferred Watco penetrating oils, but shifted to their teak oil version, for more protection and UV blocking(all versions are mixtures that reactively cure with air exposure). Oils cure hard enough, to protect but leave the wood natural-looking without a thick finish, which in worst cases can lead to looking like formica - a sin against real wood. Oils can be re-applied without difficult sanding or removal, and rubbed to a great semi-gloss luster I prefer over any high gloss that just looks like plastic. Practically, water-based polyurethanes dry harder than most solvent-based versions, the only downside is the contemporary "water clear" look that lacks the traditional, amber tint many actually prefer.
Yeah this guys knows what the heck he’s doing. I noticed a lot of other guys just wanna UA-cam channel and this guy actually knows what he’s talking about. Thank you soo much !
I find the main issue with finishes here on the other side of the pond is our finishes seem to be completely different. I think most paint here (UK) are now water based, it very hard to know what's in a finish and practically nothing comes up when you search for wipe on ploy. Would you consider a video on painting and varnishing wood? I know wood workers like to see the wood but I find I enjoy a mix of clear wood and painted furniture.
Great video!! You’re a wealth of information, I’m glad I found your channel! I’m curious what your take is on the hard wax oils that I see all over UA-cam (Osmo Polyx, Rubio Monocoat, etc.)
I actually had the exact same thought. I love Rubio so far, other than the lack of sheen. It's so easy to apply and looks and feels great. Not sure of durability yet.
@@avenger429 I haven’t used it yet, but from what I understand, durability shouldn’t be a concern. It was formulated for floors. I’ve seen some videos talking about durability and it seems that if it doesn’t get damaged, it’s much easier to repair that varnishes like polyurethane because you can just sand back the damaged area and refinish instead of stripping the whole piece. But again, I haven’t used it myself so I’m not speaking from experience.
@@Dragon_With_Matches Don't hesitate to try it! It is so satisfying to use, smells mildly like bananas, and it's 1 coat and done. A very little goes a long ways. It seems expensive at 1st until you realize it stretches super far and you only need 1 coat.
@@Dragon_With_Matches Awesome! I'd suggest for larger projects to slap a white schotchbrite pad onto an adjustable speed random orbital sander or small buffer to speed up the process. Just remember use a little at a time, otherwise you'll be flinging wax everywhere... Don't ask how I know that, lol.
@@shanedaugherty8596 I’ve heard that you can apply a water-based finish over oil if you wait for the oil to completely cure. I plan to test it out if a table I finished in Danish oil ever stops smelling like Danish Oil (it’s been about a year). But I don’t think polycrylic will stop wood from darkening with light exposure. At least, the color change in some maple I used polycrylic on maybe nine months ago is intense.
@@mirandamom1346. Yes I have heard from a great old woodworker Charles Neil on his channel that you can coat water over oil And oil over water as long as they both are dried before doing so. On that Danish oil, does it smell bad still like a poly or is it a different smell?
I am so happy i found this channel ❤❤❤ i'm starting some diy projects for my apartment and having finishes be explained so thoroughly is amazing ❤ it also helps that nick is so sweet, funny and patient 😊
In my humble opinion (I have been at this for 65 years) this instructor/teacher is one of the top three on UA-cam. Sincere, thorough, to the point and keeping it simple.
Who are your other two?
Me too, who are the other two?
You hit it on the head and it has the feel of a pbs show. It was done great and has all the hallmarks of being professionally written. With the I'm just about to tell you but hold on technique and was worth not fast forwarding.
I look for these types of comments when it comes to this ancient art. And I appreciate them.
@@Macron87 Don't be confused. It his humble opinion about the three best instructors.
He also stating his background which serves as the basis of his opinion.
I do not qualify to form that humble opinion about the three best instructors.
I can only comment on this video and it's my impression that this instructor is really good!
I was able to understand and learn something that I didn't had a clue about!
I like his delivery without superfluous ranting and the presentation was very logical for me to follow!
I’m a resident physician, meaning I’ve spent about 20,000 hours over the last 10 years learning from thousands of the most educated and intelligent people on the planet.
And this man is easily among the top 1 or 2 teachers I’ve ever encountered.
Articulate, interesting, technically precise yet simple language and concise.
As a retired painter (42 years in the trade) I completely agree with reading the back label of coatings and still do to this day. I always pour the product from the front side of the label as to not obscure the info on the back. I would like to caution persons on the proper drying and disposal of wiping rags, whether solvent-based finishes as well as solvent-based stains including especially linseed oil. ALL RAGS MUST BE LAID OR HUNG FLAT TO DRY COMPLETELY BEFORE DISPOSAL TO AVOID SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION, once dry and hard, can be thrown in the trash.
It's a good warning. Most reactive finishes produce exothermic reactions as they cure. This is especially true of (but not limited to) reactive finishes containing linseed oil.
Both excellent points and good reminders. I habitually pour incorrectly and cannot read back label anymore!
In my inexperience years ago, I stuffed stripper chemical rags into a small open trash bin and it caught on fire! I was so surprised. Learned my lesson. I let them dry out now before throwing into an OPEN trash container for at least 1 day.
This has the feel of a pbs show. It was done great and has all the hallmarks of being professionally written. With the I'm just about to tell you but hold on technique and was worth not fast forwarding. We are blessed to have you making these videos.
Thanks for saying. And they are carefully written -- with 50 years experience in DIY publishing, we've figured out how to tell a woodworking story.
T
Y
What a substantive video. Much appreciated!
Hopefully he gets his own PBS financed series soon :)
I am a retired chemist who had to deal with thousands of MSDS document. Just loved your compilation of possible toxic consequences, but especially the “Finishing Phobia “ at the end of the list.
As a "book-smart" engineer struggling to get into the very "real-world" art of woodworking I appreciate the comprehensive information given in these videos. The thorough discussion of the terminology, mechanics, chemistry, and theory behind what is being done helps me retain and compile the information as more than just a series of disjointed wood facts or recommendations. These are long videos but in the end I learn far more in 30 minutes here than watching ten 3-minute videos on the same topic. Thank you for your work Sir!
Every art has a science at it's heart; woodworking is no different. Good craftsmanship, I believe, is science with a flair. And you're most welcome.
You should know that this is the most informative and easy to understand demonstration of different finishes on the entire platform of UA-cam. Thanks for what you do, it helps thousands of people be more comfortable with their creativity🤘
Kind of you to say.
Totally agreed
Believe me, My girlfriend and I must’ve watched about 16 videos about finishing and stains; and I must add that watching yours, I got a heck of a lot more knowledge than watching those 16 videos. So; we would like to thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experiences. You’re a great teacher Sir.
Even though I don’t know much about woodworking and stains and finishes, I was able to pick up everything you said on this video; and I’m sure I’ll be using the knowledge I received from you, very soon.
GOD bless you my friend, and again; thank you so much for this beautiful video. I’ve just subscribed to your UA-cam channel. I can’t wait to see what else you have in your channel. Peace!
Thanks so much for the kind words...and welcome!
You, sir, are an absolute hero! I am a housewife in a 125yr old farmhouse full of old and abused woodwork. I am trying to save it, but I never got a woodshop class (and I constantly kick myself for that misstep). Everything I know is from helpers at the local mill, my own trial with too much error, and the internet... And unfortunately the latter can be very untrustworthy.
I came here to find out how to salvage my recently discovered red oak beadboard that had been painted, glued and then hidden beneath wall panelling after the former residents gave up on it. Obviously, its damaged, but after stripping and cleaning, using oxalic acid for the many stains, now I am at a loss.
You are a saint for producing this detailed instructional video that tells me all the options and pros/cons.
During my years as a craftsman, I have brought a good many run-down houses, from log cabins to Victorian mini-mansions, back from the brink of collapse. There are few things more soul-satisfying that breathing new life into an old home. Send me some close up photos of your damaged beadboard through our web site, www.workshopsmompanion.com, and I'll make a few suggestions.
Don’t kick yourself too much. Girls were actively discouraged from taking woodshop because the belief was that we would, at best, be an annoyance in class. At worst they believed we’d be a liability. I was the only girl that signed up for woodshop as an elective in elementary school, and was placed into a corner with a bunch of a scraps and some wood glue, while the boys learned how to use the dangerous equipment safely, and made furniture. I made some cute doll furniture that semester, but learned nothing and felt actively pushed out even when I had gone to the trouble of signing up for the course. In high school I didn’t even bother signing up for the woodshop courses after that experience. There were no girls in those classes back then. I agree that I wish I had this knowledge and am grateful to UA-camrs like Workshop Companion for sharing this info ❤
@@Accountdeactivated_1986 when I was in junior high girls were not allowed to take shop classes, we had to take home ec - cooking and sewing. When I got to high school I was allowed to take electronics. I was the only girl in the class. It was awesome. I am STILL mad I wasn't allowed to take wood and metal shop.
What a fantastic, well thought out and delivered educational presentation! Please do the woodworking community a huge blessing and NEVER Stop the level and quality of your sharing. With all sincerity…..Thank You!
That is our plan. Most welcome.
Wow. Just wow. I have watched A lot of UA-cam videos on a variety of subjects. And this stands out as one of the best put together, No nonsense, no stupid anecdotes, well informed, and pertinent videos I have ever seen. And honestly, I don’t say that lightly. Thank you so much, you’ve got a new subscriber!
Thank you...and welcome!
0:00 Intro
1:58 Why Apply a Finish?
4:11 Coating Chemistry
5:32 Coating Processes & Applications
8:52 Spray-on Coating Application
9:35 Brush-on Coating Application
10:00 Wipe-on Coating Application
11:24 Surveying the Available Finishes
13:00 Tested Finishes
14:44 Finish on Glass Test Discussion
15:14 Food Safe Finish Discussion
16:47 Testing the Finishes (Method discussion)
21:08 Hope's Tung Oil Results
21:33 Tried & True Original Linseed Results
22:12 Minwax Tung Oil Finish Results
22:50 General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish Results
23:20 Minwax Antique Oil Finish Results
23:43 Minwax Wipe on Poly Results
24:17 General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Gloss Results
24:46 Baloney-IMHO disclaimer!
25:20 Rudy's Original Wipe-On Finish Formula
Wow. That was thorough. Intro amended -- thank you muchly.
@@WorkshopCompanion Thank you, the least I could do for such a detailed video. I keep coming back to it, and recommending it others.
26:56 🐶
Haha. Someone has too much time on their hands. 😂
Would this get sticky after a couple of years on a kitchen butcher block table? Everything I have used gets sticky😢
I am only six minutes into this video and I can already tell that this presenter is exceptionally knowledgeable and skilled at teaching. The information clarity and density here is remarkable.
Thanks for saying.
I am a scientist so I must applaud your approach to teaching people the different factors that affect wood refinishing. Your presentation was logical, extensive and informative. Yet, in the end, you focused on the most important factor which was to advise people to include their personal preferences when choosing a finish. Well done and enjoyable.
Great video, though I was surprised to not see the finish you usually use in the comparison. It would have been interesting to see how you treated it in each of the metrics and to see a sample finished with it.
This channel is absolute gold for any woodworker, from novice to professional.
Thanks for saying.
It rarely happens, however, I was fully engaged from start to finish. You are a gifted in your teaching abilities. Well done!
This guy is amazing! clear information presented with actual logic (gasp!) and no sales pitch. Incredible.
oh i love the no nonsense, factual yet still charming style. such a nice refreshing change from the YTubey tonality. wonderful videos
I'm not a woodworker but you immediately became my favorite UA-cam channel. Keep it up!
This video contains an insane amount of super useful information for just 27 minutes. Thank you for imparting your knowledge to the world.
Most welcome.
I just watched this video, I feel like I went to seminar on wood finishing!
Loved this video! I learned so much more than what I thought I knew!, I am 74 years old and have been refinishing furniture since I was 10! My granny taught me! Thank you so much!!!!
❤️🌻❤️
Most welcome.
Nick, I worked as a Industrial Coatings Rep. for a major paint/coatings company for almost 10 years. Your explanation of coating chemistry was GREAT. Everyone should understand that part because then they can properly evaluate any product for coating/painting/finishing anything. The only other thing that I would add or emphasize is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. You would be amazed at how much effort goes into the instructions that go on the can and very few people read it, then complain when the finish doesn't work like they wanted it to. But, a fantastic video. Keep up the good work.
I owe my understanding of coating chemistry to the patient folks at Mohawk and Minwax; you guys are beyond helpful. As for your second suggestion, see 19:15
Shellac is not made from shit it,s made from wing cases showing you sold it but didnt know it.
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen on youtube on any topic. Very well done! So clearly explained and funny too, exactly what I was looking for :)
Thanks for saying.
Your presentation is incredible. Very informative. Interesting to listen to. I couldn't have imagined I would enjoying watching a half hour on finishes so much. Well done sir and thank you for your hard work and for making this video and presenting the results.
Most welcome.
I'm not even a wood worker but boy do I love this guy's vibe. Thank you so much for providing all of this great information! Despite being even less than beginner status, I still learned a lot!!!
Hands down the most comprehensive and accessible video on wood finishing I've ever seen. That mixture of information, production quality and on screen charisma is not easy to pull off. Thank you, sir. Much appreciated.
Most welcome.
I can say I have never learned so much and enjoyed a lesson more on a topic that I’m not even sure why I stopped to look at. But I am glad - this instructor is amazing. Thorough, orderly, not only explaining how to do something, but why you do it in the order that you do it. Everything was very detailed, thorough and understandable- impressive. If every teacher could this good, we would never outgrow learning!
Thanks.
I'm a budget crafter I make small wooden trinkets. I got given a small bottle of a mix of tung oil and citrus oil. It takes a while to dry but but dries reasonably hard and has a nice satin finish or a bit more glossy if I keep polishing it while drying. It also smells like oranges :D
If I might interject, if you are currently doing the application and buffing sand gloves you'll want to be careful about continuing to do so. The 'citrus solvent' is limonene and it's a known sensitiser, and will become increasingly so as the remaining finish in the container has a chance to react with air as the fluid level drops.
Unglaublich. Ich habe dutzende Öl-Videos gesehen aber Ihres ist das mit Abstand umfangreichste, unterhaltsamste, informativste und am tiefsten gehendes Video überhaupt. Es gab nicht eine Sekunde die langweilig war. Ihr Unterhaltungswert ist überragend. Die Erklärungen absolut gut. Verständlich und kurzweilig vermittelt. Sie sind wie eine Mischung aus Mythbusters und Albert Einstein ❤ Vielen vielen Dank für dieses unglaubliche Video. Werde es bestimmt noch mehrere Male anschauen. Die besten Grüße aus Deutschland
Thank you for this! As a beginner to woodworking, I can't tell you how valuable this video is to me. I'll be coming back to watch this many more times!
Thanks for saying. And let me remind you (not that I'm trying to sell books or anything), all this information is in my book, "Finishing'"
How to finish a piece is a subject that is so convoluted. I've bought so many finishes not always understanding the specific differences and dangers of each. Thank you so much for putting this in a completely comprehensive tutorial. I'm an instant fan and can't wait to see all your content. I'm sure I speak for many when I say after this video we are all better for it. Thank you
Most welcome.
This video is outrageously pure excellence, this video has easily made my mind up to finish my Joystick box, Tung Oil with a small cup of varnish, the teachings in this video are just so good!!! Best Teacher on UA-cam and there are some good ones!!
Thanks for the kind words.
Just out of curiosity are you going to use regular(natural) Tung oil with varnish or the Minwax variety?
I ask because I’m curious about mixing regular tung oil with an oil poly, I’ve heard many mixing linseed oil with poly but always wanted to know if natural tung oil can be mixed too.
No fancy video editing techniques here- just straight and forward information. Videos like this are why I started watching UA-cam heavily. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Most welcome.
Excellent presentation Nick. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again you are by far the most thorough, easy to understand, and informative teacher on UA-cam. Thank you for being you.
Thank you for saying so.
Wow, excellent information and techniques delivered in a most professional and meaningful manner. I learned a lot from this. Here is my own go to finish:
First I prep the wood with an 80 grit sandpaper so the fibers are most porous. Spray with water and wipe down. Then I apply boiled linseed oil with a brush, wait 20 minutes then rub the excess off with a lint free cloth burnishing the oil into the rub. Let dry overnight then sand with 120 grit sandpaper. Reapply the BLO as before but using 4/0 steel wool pad instead of a brush. After 20 minutes rub off the oil and burnish into the wood aggressively with a clean dry cloth. Immediately follow with a coat of spar varnish or spar urethane. Finish with a good wax and buff.
You, sir, are a wizard and a wealth of information. As a beginner woodworker you have become my go-to resource for education and even inspiration. Thank you so much for taking the time. I know it’s a lot of work to both make the content and edit for posting. Your efforts are not in vain!
Thank you for those kind words.
@@WorkshopCompanion I want to join Scott's opinion. Not only your content is very useful to me; there is something to make the difference: your techniques are well rationalized, allowing for variations, and are the most realistic.
Very helpful thank you. I buy a lot of second hand furniture and recently I've decided to try and learn how to spruce it up a bit. A lot of it is really great just has a lot of surface wear. I'm a craftsperson but I almost never really work with wood, and have only extremely basic woodworking knowledge. But the woodworking shop was just one door down from our studio and we were required to take at least one class there, so I'm extremely aware of the fact that none of this is ever as easy as it seems. The whole thing was kind of giving me decision paralysis, having it laid out very simply and analytically like this just makes everything much easier to process. Funny thing is information like this means that you usually end up at the exact same conclusion that you had arrived at from your own reading, you just feel much more confident in the fact that you actually made the right choice.
You're the best teacher I've seen in the UA-cam woodworking community, and I've just arrived here for the first time after years of marathoning UA-cam
Thanks.
I wish I had him as a teacher in my woodworking class.That was incredibly interesting to listen to.
This is the best and easiest to follow finishing video I’ve seen. And I watched a ton of them! I’m so glad I found your channel!
This bloke is born to teach people. What an amazing video it's so well put together.
Thanks for saying.
Excelent class and explanation! Bravo Maestro.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! You're the kind of instructor that all instructors should be! Sadly, instructors like you are extremely few and far apart! Keep up all the good work, as we need instructors like you. I read a number of comments after watching this video, and it appears nearly all appreciate all the hard work you put into your videos! God bless you, my friend!!!
Thanks for your kind words.
I've been scouring UA-cam and the internet for knowledge and advice, this is easily the most informative, well presented source I've found so far. You can be sure I'll be watching every video you've posted now. :) Thanks so much. I'm going with a Danish Oil finish for a Walnut dowel contact staff, because you're right, it's subjective but now I know how to make an informed decision.
Finishing is all about making good decisions. Glad to have been of help.
That was wonderful. Thanks. In my early years of refinishing, there was a shop with a few men just like you who would share their expertise and taught me so much. I really missed going there when the shop closed. Seems most of the wonderful small storefronts have disappeared. Listening to you today brought back those happy memories of learning from someone who loves what he does and is generous enough to share with others. Thanks again
Most welcome.
I was surprised at how in depth and informative this video was. Appreciate the time and effort. Cheers.
Cheers back at you.
I already liked you, but now After hearing that the super important section about understanding spreadsheets of your book is free I'm in love with your channel. You make good content, is concerned about health and is not a gatekeeper, what a Chad!
Wow! I have a beautiful little antique side table that I have been agonizing over refinishing. This helped so very much. Thank you for sharing your obvious expertise. Loved your warm, friendly approach. Great video!!
I appreciate that you labelled the video, I only wanted to see the results so it was nice to get straight to it while still keeping the in depth information for others who need it. Thanks for the video.
Most welcome.
“What a wealth of information and masterful delivery” , I wish every teacher I had in my life was like you. Thank you
Most welcome.
Every teacher , leader, politician etc. This guy should be President !
This video is really outstanding work. Your charm, humor, intelligence, ability to communicate, curiosity all come together into something really special.
Well done. Seriously. And, thank you.
This is a complete video! Something rarely found on UA-cam. Thanks for such good information and I appreciate you taking what you were taught, and teaching us too.
Most welcome.
The gold standard of informative YT videos!
Genuinely amazing, both in terms of information, but also the presentation. You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
Thanks for the kind words.
Wish I could be a student in his workshop. Of course just grateful that he shares his valuable knowledge through UA-cam.
I think you'd be surprised at how boring it gets for woodworkers around here. There are long, long stretches of time where any student we might have would just have to twiddle their thumbs and watch the machinery rust while Travis stresses over the timing of a video or I sweat out the details of a script. But thanks for saying.
Wow. Just wow! What a thorough, interesting, well-thought-out and entertaining educational presentation on finishes. I learned a lot. My new favorite wood-working teacher on UA-cam. Thanks a million.
This channel is a treasure. Did you come to a finding on the elasticity of the finishes and how they hold up under seasonal movement? Just curious. I'll try Rudy's finish i'm betting it satisfies in that department.
It does. What I used to judge relative flexibility were the cotton cloths I used to wipe-off the finishes. Remember, I labeled each of these to avoid cross-contamination and they were all pretty well saturated with their respective finishes by the time the experiment concluded. I tested my ability to stretch the cloths a week afterwards, when most of the finishes were completely cured. Hope's Tung Oil and Tried & True Original Finish were, by far, the most flexible (although I doubt they were fully cured at that time). The least flexible was General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and Minwax Wipe-On Poly. But all the finishes I judged to have sufficient flexibility to expand and contract with normal wood movement.
As a general observation, _all_ finishes in good condition are flexible enough to withstand seasonal movement... otherwise they wouldn't withstand seasonal movement if you see what I'm getting at🙂 We don't commonly see stuff that's just a few years old with cracked finishes. It's well to remember as well, by being present finishes do limit the total movement by reducing the speed and severity of MC changes, as Nick mentions.
Even finishes thought to be rigid and inflexible must be definition be _flexible enough_ (in the usual coat thicknesses used) otherwise they wouldn't last more than a year or two before cracks started showing up.
But this doesn't last forever, most finishes degrade as they age (primarily from UV but another major factor in furniture can be water intrusion) and in addition to the typical increase in amber/yellow-orange colouring, they become brittle. Given the small scale of possible movement we see this effect most strikingly on many old Stanley plane handles where the original film finish can craze spectacularly.
@@WorkshopCompanion ah! I was wondering how you tested that. Spar varnish or urethane has got to perform well in that regard, by design.
Could not agree with you more. After just 3 mins in I knew I had found something special. Thank you for sharing your amazing knowledge with us. The witty bits are quite enjoyable as well.
Thank you for your help. I now have a plan for coating some Christmas gifts. Your channel is a gift this year! A+
I am not get at woodworking, but have always enjoyed watching others work the craft. This video could easily be shown in a classroom for how it is laid out and the information given. I appreciate you taking the time to make something so professional.
Thanks for saying.
This is brilliant. I'm only 6 minutes into the video and I already love it for its simplicity and clarity. Keep going! :)
Thanks.
Man, not only did I comfortably learn a lot about the topic when previously massively overwhelmed by it, I was really entertained too. This is what a youtube video should be. Thank you!
Most welcome.
Thank you for all of the time and effort that you put into this well executed and concise video. I can only imagine how much time it took to do all of these experiments and then also all of the post recording video work. Well Done Sir!
I know nothing about wood finishing and what's what in all these finishes, so came searching as I built a camp box out of birch plywood that I now need to finish. This is hands down one of the best instructional videos - super clear, informative, and you have a really great presentation style. I'll be checking out more of your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Most welcome. And thanks for the kind words.
I have a table top made out of Douglas fir, I want to turn it into a work table for my bakery, I watched tens of videos on how to finish it and read so many articles about the subject
This video is the best I have seen
I'm just so glad to have found this. I'm just starting, at the mid of the roadmap. How the finish looks and feels will do a huge part for my pieces. Thank you!
Most welcome.
This was truly superb. It's incredibly tightly edited, yet approachable and easily followed. The writing and presentation are exemplary, and the content is very useful. This was exceptional.
Thanks for saying.
Thank you so much! I've been scouring the internet for ages. Then I found your site. YAY! I'm 67 year old woman doing some home renos. Recently sanded two tables but had no idea what finish to use. Thank you for the plethora of info. [I suspect I'm going to need your help with other tasks too]. SUBSCRIBED. ♥
Equal parts spar varnish, oil, and solvent. In the summer use tung oil and and in the winter boiled linseed oil. The recipe called for turpentine or mineral spirits but the latter doesn’t appear to be available today so a synthetic mineral spirit will do. Wipe on and wipe off. If the finish becomes too tacky wet your rag with a mineral spirits. Little rubbing between coats is necessary if a layer of thin shellac is applied between coats. #0000 steel wool can be used to knock down any dust nubs.
Stained wood and open grained presents new challenges to finishing but the method of wipe on varnish and shellac sealing overcome these. Also, the build up of finish is much faster and the final top coat can be anything from a French polish to a satin sheen.
This recipe or a version is found in George Franks finishing book from the 1940's ? I believe.
I have used this very successfully on red / yellow cedar for 40 years. It draws the varnish into the lower layers to really add surface hardness to an otherwise very soft wood.
I am unfamiliar wiht the large ratio provided in the video, have always used a lot more varnish.
Thanks for this recipe, worth trying. I probably won’t use the shellac part though and just lightly scuff between costs.
How long does this coat last / need to be redone?
I’m new to wood finishing and came across this video in my wandering search. I really enjoyed the education from start to “finish” and thought wow I learned a lot! Great teaching video! Thank you!
Most welcome.
This was one of the most informative and entertaining videos I've watched in a long time, and I've watched a lot of woodworking videos. I think we think alike which is why I like these so much. You get to an age, where reading the directions, for example, might yield some valuable info from the very people who only built the very product you're too smart to read the instructions for! Excellent video, as always!
Thanks for the feedback.
Oh my god. The detail in this video has earned you a subscriber! Jesus i love your videos already and one only seen one!
Welcome.
I have no knowledge or experience staining and/or finishing wood, but a recent small project taught me something. If you want to use Rudy's Wipe On Finish (discussed @ 25:20) be sure to use the oil based Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (as shown in the video). Minwax also sells a very similar product with near identical labeling but with the words "Water Based" added. The water based Spar Urethane does not mix well (if at all) with Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Because Tung Oil Finish is oil based? That would be my guess.
That's because you only mix oil with oil based products. 🤷
@@rustic35, Ergo the old saw: "Oil and water do not mix" is based on observable fact.
Yes, correct. Water based finishes are awful in my opinion. I only use oil based. One thing to note: Spar Varnish has more UV resistance than Spar Urethane but Urethane is easier.
Another Great presentation! I know you were trying to compare the "off the shelf" options but, I would have enjoyed seeing the results of your "Go To" finish side by side as well.
I think I'd go with the Minwax Antique Oil. Durability isn't quite so important in my situation and the depth and gloss it gave seemed the best of the bunch to me.
I refinished some old oak furniture pieces in the early 90's with that product and both still as good as ever. Easy to apply; very good overall.
You sir are so pleasent to listen too, you are very thorough and dont skip any steps, i so much enjoy seeing and listening to this video that i regret when you ended it :D
I learned so much from this, my only problem now is translating that to the danish marked for the oils we can get, even though i'm still very confused about all this, you did manage to get it to make some sense to me.
I'm looking to darken the colour of my wood, and seal it so we can use it without leaving marks after cups and spillover - I will see this a few more times and try to put what i have learned into practice. Thank you
Great, important and useful video. Very well done. I believe polyurethane and ceramic are not water semi-permeable finishes.
I use hardwax oil finishes for more and more projects that I do. I found Osmo better in terms of penetration, application and durability than the others, like Tried & True, although Ruby is excellent too. One of the critical factors is that a good hardwax oil is durable enough to use for high traffic wood flooring, leaves the wood grain feel, is maintainable like shellac where a new coat will adhere to prior ones, but unlike shellac it is much harder and is not dissolved or damaged by alcohol. I use a teflon pad to apply deeply, efficiently and even, while getting a grain burnishing effect that you do not get with a brush or wipe-on.
I sometimes use ceramic or carbon nano-coats on top of the finish for scratch durability. However, ceramic nanocoats make damage repairs more difficult.
That sounds interesting, I never heard of those coatings. What brands are the ceramic and carbon nano-coats that you use? Are they more durable than say an oil poly? And how easy are they to apply?
Thanks for your content. One adition: The right oils do also react with oxigen and harden. E.g. linseed oil. The process takes time though. So, they do not "just sit there". Love your videos!
Give this man an Oscar, please!
Applaud you for taking the time to do this. Your demeanor seems like a retired High School Teacher. Thanks
Most welcome.
Really useful! Such a pleasure to hear the views and opinions of a true experienced craftsman. I feel like I have gained some depth of knowledge, rather than a single opinion/viewpoint. Thanks :)
I would be most interested in your views on finishes such as hard wax (Osmo) and outliers such as Rubio Monocoat.
From what I've seen, Rubio is basically the choice high end woodworkers are going with now, especially for custom stuff. One thin coat, buff it in, dry and done. Maybe a super light sanding and a second coat to really be sure. Then a final application of a ceramic nano-coating product that basically completely eliminates water damage/staining.
I'll note too that since it's a two-part, it only starts the clock on it going bad once it's mixed, and you can easily only mix enough for each project.
Thanks a lot!
I am an amateur in this field and was very confused about which chemical to select which is easy- to -do, cheap and gives aesthetic results.
Now I know what and how to look for the one I require .
Outstanding and humorous presentation on the subject! ..."another door to Narnia", classic. Your knowledge, passion and manner are some of the best I've seen on the channels. I watched, I laughed and I learned, ya' can't beat that!
Just restarting my woodcraft journey back into desktops, cabinets and whatever my wife specs for me on the way.
Looking forward to more of your wisdom Nick. Damn the MSDS hogwash, I'm putting some of this into my whiskey! Cheers!
Carry on Sir.
Those were kind words. Thanks for saying.
You are the Albert Einstein of finishing! Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Rudy's recipe might be the thing that breaks me out of my never-ending Odie's Oil and Rubio Monocoat loop.
For a specific sealing situation - a harmonica 'comb' - I settled on Watco Butcher Block finish, with pretty positive results. The pearwood was not very dense, and the shape gave no area more than 1/8" to permeate. I floated the comb in a small foil tray, careful to leave the top surface dry, so air could migrate out; after a few hours, the surface showed full penetration, and I took it out and wiped dry. Covering the tray to avoid pre-oxidation, I repeated the process two more times over four days, then let the comb air-cure for a couple weeks. The finish is an alkyd base, which cures by both initial solvent evaporation, then oxidation reaction with air, similar but much faster than classic linseed oil. After drying it is totally food safe, and has over time created the closest thing to a DIY resin-sealed wood that is very tough, more resonant than the dry wood, and yet did not warp compared to water soaking the same types of wood. I made small dowel spacers to avoid warping but mostly seemed unnecessary. Pre-sanding to shape lets the final coat leave a satin sheen that is appealing, but for food surfaces wiping excess off is preferable to striving for more gloss.
For other wood, I've preferred Watco penetrating oils, but shifted to their teak oil version, for more protection and UV blocking(all versions are mixtures that reactively cure with air exposure). Oils cure hard enough, to protect but leave the wood natural-looking without a thick finish, which in worst cases can lead to looking like formica - a sin against real wood. Oils can be re-applied without difficult sanding or removal, and rubbed to a great semi-gloss luster I prefer over any high gloss that just looks like plastic. Practically, water-based polyurethanes dry harder than most solvent-based versions, the only downside is the contemporary "water clear" look that lacks the traditional, amber tint many actually prefer.
I wish this guy was my neighbor.
Yeah, have one on each side and then over the fence in the back too
I wish this guy was my grandpa
We all do 😂
Yeah this guys knows what the heck he’s doing. I noticed a lot of other guys just wanna UA-cam channel and this guy actually knows what he’s talking about. Thank you soo much !
Most welcome.
I find the main issue with finishes here on the other side of the pond is our finishes seem to be completely different. I think most paint here (UK) are now water based, it very hard to know what's in a finish and practically nothing comes up when you search for wipe on ploy.
Would you consider a video on painting and varnishing wood? I know wood workers like to see the wood but I find I enjoy a mix of clear wood and painted furniture.
I gave you a thumbs up, but only because it wouldn’t let me give you more. Best head-to-head and most informative video on finishes that I’ve seen.
Great video!! You’re a wealth of information, I’m glad I found your channel! I’m curious what your take is on the hard wax oils that I see all over UA-cam (Osmo Polyx, Rubio Monocoat, etc.)
I actually had the exact same thought. I love Rubio so far, other than the lack of sheen. It's so easy to apply and looks and feels great. Not sure of durability yet.
@@avenger429 I haven’t used it yet, but from what I understand, durability shouldn’t be a concern. It was formulated for floors. I’ve seen some videos talking about durability and it seems that if it doesn’t get damaged, it’s much easier to repair that varnishes like polyurethane because you can just sand back the damaged area and refinish instead of stripping the whole piece. But again, I haven’t used it myself so I’m not speaking from experience.
@@Dragon_With_Matches Don't hesitate to try it! It is so satisfying to use, smells mildly like bananas, and it's 1 coat and done. A very little goes a long ways. It seems expensive at 1st until you realize it stretches super far and you only need 1 coat.
@@avenger429 I’m looking forward to trying it when I build a bookcase later this year! I’ve seen a lot of UA-camrs use it and it looks amazing!
@@Dragon_With_Matches Awesome! I'd suggest for larger projects to slap a white schotchbrite pad onto an adjustable speed random orbital sander or small buffer to speed up the process. Just remember use a little at a time, otherwise you'll be flinging wax everywhere... Don't ask how I know that, lol.
I was delighted to find this really comprehensive survey of all the types of finishes! He puts other commentators to shame.🤓
I loved this. Funny thing, I use water based poly BECAUSE it doesn’t warm (or in my parlance, “yellow” 😏) the wood. To each her own!
I have often thought that wood finishers are like snowflakes -- no two do it the same. Thanks for saying.
Can you use the minwax water based urethane along with the tung oil? To try and keep the wood from yellowing over time.
@@shanedaugherty8596 I’ve heard that you can apply a water-based finish over oil if you wait for the oil to completely cure. I plan to test it out if a table I finished in Danish oil ever stops smelling like Danish Oil (it’s been about a year). But I don’t think polycrylic will stop wood from darkening with light exposure. At least, the color change in some maple I used polycrylic on maybe nine months ago is intense.
@@mirandamom1346. Yes I have heard from a great old woodworker Charles Neil on his channel that you can coat water over oil And oil over water as long as they both are dried before doing so.
On that Danish oil, does it smell bad still like a poly or is it a different smell?
@@mick2spicThe table no longer smells oily. But the finish is doing so well, I may change my mind about adding a water based layer over it.
Great to see someone who actually knows what they are talking about, but are also able to structure and present it so a novice can understand it.
if wood finishing had a professor...
I would be very curious to learn how your improvement experiments are coming along!
Currently I just slap water based poly on everything,. Probably going to change that up after watching this 😂
I am so happy i found this channel ❤❤❤ i'm starting some diy projects for my apartment and having finishes be explained so thoroughly is amazing ❤ it also helps that nick is so sweet, funny and patient 😊
Thanks for the kind words.
16:00 Side effects: Finishing Phobia 😅
Knowledge: 10; Delivery and content-10; Video and sound-10. Wow. You rock!
Thanks for the review.
thank you for leaving it open ended and recommending experimentation.
Wow! I'm impressed by the quality, information, and humor of this video. Much appreciated.