This might be the single greatest video I've seen on any channel in months. Absolutely got right down to the core of the issue, didn't add a lot of nonsense fluff to pad the video time, and was entertaining the whole way. I'm gonna make the other guys in our shop watch this video this afternoon. It might become required viewing for all new employees.
If you like this kind of stuff, Project Farm does a lot of comparison between lots of tools and things with very little fluff. Not really woodwork focused, but still good if you have a manual labor job/hobby.
This dude has rapidly become my favorite woodworker. He keeps his videos short and to the point and cuts out the BS. Please don’t sell out and start pushing products
So agree with you, seems more and more people are dragging out a 10 minutes video to 30 mins or making a 5 part series for something that IMO should be a single 30 minute video. I know channels where a finish compare would be a 4 part series of 45 minute videos, I just cant be bothered with those!
If only all UA-cam videos were as informative and direct as this one, we would have more time to do our woodworking. Clearly one of the best videos I have watched. Right to the point.
I grew up in a custom furniture shop, learned finishing from my father, a master (lacquer, Danish oil, and wax) and in this 13-minute video I learned more than the prior sum total of my knowledge. And without giving away any of the really high-level secret techniques. Well done!
Secrets go hand in hand with concentrated power. Please, don't squander your knowledge. Even if a Mexican-born individual might "take your job" because of it.
Thank you! I've progressed in my woodworking journey from the poly finishes to Tung oil and now use only the hard wax oils. I've been going between Odie's and the Osmo products lately. For my cutting boards, I've settled on Odie's as my go-to. Simple to apply, easy fixes, looks great, and makes the product easier for my customers to maintain. Since they're mostly end-grain, I will generally flood with mineral oil, then cover with Odie's for the sheen. I really appreciate your diligence on this video. Thanks again for taking the time!
You should try Watco Butcher Block Oil. Best thing for end grain butcher blocks. There is nothing better. I have been doing it for decades now. It can't be beat. I even use it to finish butcher bock countertops as well. It's not just an opinion either, it is a fact that results prove.
I have been playing at woodworking for 25 years. During that time I have repeatedly consulted books and videos and magazine articles to try to get my mind around the differences between the different kinds of finishes, but never succeeded in organizing the info in a way that was memorable (i.e., useful). Your video swept all the jumbled, useless scraps of info out of my brain and replaced them with a clear and concise explanation not only that I understood, but also that I could remember and easily refer to. Thank you so very, very much. This is the first video of yours that I've seen, and I just subscribed.
Great comparisons. One factor that should also be included though is toxicity, which is a long term health concern for applicators, as well as requires more PPE which adds to the annoyance of using some of these products, particularly lacquers. There is also a not insignificant fire hazard associated with using lacquer products.
Great video - thank you. My first use of Danish oil was on the New Guinea Rosewood bed I made for my wife. 20 years on that bed still looks the bomb!! Will never go back to poly ever again. Cheers.
As a boat builder and boat repairman I would suggest a product that you would be amazed by... Profin from Daly's Wood finishes. Profin is a hard drying quick setting oil finish that is exceptionally durable. Profin produces a professional finish and is often used when spraying is not practical. Profin is recommended for wood surfaces such a furniture, cabinet doors, milwork and paneling doors. It has an amber color and soaks in well to most woods. Originally Profin was developed to just wipe on a coat, let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe it of with a rag ... but not too dry. I ran into Profin as the finish of the cabin teak and holly veneer floor panels in Hunter Sailboats. They applied a very thick coat of Profin on the panels... perhaps 1/6" inch thick... to the floor panels so the finish was glossy and tough and lasted years in these sailboats. Originally it was recommended to apply one to two coats, each wiped off after application it was said to be well sealed. If you apply Profin with a foam brush and do not wipe it off but allow it to just dry as a clear finish... it dries very hard and with a beautiful gloss (if you are applying gloss finish). It is a modified resin oil finish that is close to a polyurethane when dried but its amber color and its ability to lay down beautifully makes for a super beautiful glossy finish (applied on any larger surface with a foam brush) that projects the beauty of the wood. It comes in a satin but I mostly use the gloss. One more thing, on simple tables or shop jigs etc, it is a great one coat sealer to appear like a single coat of tongue oil with a bit of amber warmth... yet dries with no perceptable layer on the wood...but sealed very well. I have used it quite a bit to refinish the plane totes (handles and knobs) on restored Stanley hand planes and the Rosewood handles look exquisite with a deep gloss very tough finish. Profin in a thicker finish dries and lays down beautifully on large projects just like glossy like polyurethane. Fair winds brinkboatrepair.com
I had a finishing shop for years and primarily used Nitrocellulose lacquer for everything. I restored antiques to more modern furniture. A finish for an antique could vary but when using lacquer you can mimic many finishes. I NEVER used a poly. I only preferred a finish which could easily be removed or touched up in the future. For durability on tables we often used a Catalytic lacquer. But as you stated. There's no best finish because of the many variables. There's more to a finish than just wiping some product on and off. Some more sophisticated looks require staining, glazing and shading as well as a top coat.
It took me 7 years of trial and error to come to the conclusions provided in this super informative video. Great job. I'm going to recommend this to anyone who asks "what should i use to finish my project?"
SO SO SO helpful! Thank you! I'm an amateur hobbyist woodworker and am almost done building my first tack trunk (for horse equipment). This is roughly my 5th or 6th project that I've built ever. I'm super proud of it and want to make sure it looks good and can withstand heavy use, but also want a product that - as more of a newbie - I won't be likely to mess up. Since I'm using birch plywood for the majority of the build, with pine planks and moulding for trim, with some cedar tongue and groove on the inside, and a thin strip of oak trim to cover the bare plywood edges on top which will be exposed when you open the lid, I have a bit of a mix....I may stain the outside of the box first (leaving the inside natural), so I have that to contend with first as well. Needless to say, having a comparison like this is going to help me immensely when I get ready to finish it.
This is the best video I've seen on wood finishing. The two follow up finish videos that I'd love to see you make: 1. Durability testing (like Project Farm). 2. Color change over time (polyurethane turns yellow-orange over time, etc).
I am a 68 year old American man. Retired. I painted 300 houses. If you need to seal anything that will be outside, consider Unboiled Linseed Oil. It dries very slowly, so penetrates deeply. Usually, you will have to order it.
Well explained! Thank you. For many years I have used Odie's exclusively. I have gotten fabulous results and my customers love it. It's not expensive considering how much mileage you get from it. Technically, it's cheaper in the long run considering it is equivalent to 1-1/2 gallon of poly. Plus, no issues with dust nibs or having a sterile shop. I use a 6" car buffer to apply it and buff it off. No respirators either. It's a no-brainer.
Can I ask: do you ever do a coat of regular paste wax after odie's oil? And for a high use piece like a coffee table, is odie's oil hearty enough or do you need to use the butter or wax?
@@andydixon6759 Absolutely! That's not exclusive to Odie's. All finishes should receive wax periodically. Odie's Wood Butter is a combination of Oil and Wax. Their wax is amazing by itself. It's darn near bulletproof. Tough to apply but incredibly tough. Need a buffer to apply.
What kind of pad do you use with the car buffer? I applied Odie's with a scotchbrite pad by hand and then buffed off with an old cotton t-shirt. Then finished by buffing with a scotchbrite cut into a circle, stuck to my random orbital sander.
@@mattpetti7571 I use a microfiber pad. $2 each at Walmart. I've tried other types but those have worked the best for me. I too buff by hand. I've never bothered to buff with a scrotchbrite for final finishing. Do you get better results?
@@mattpetti7571 My process is to apply Odie's with a microfiber pad. Wait 30 minutes, then do it again just in case some areas absorbed more oil. After 30 minutes I buff by hand. After 24 hours, I apply Odie's Wood Butter and buff it off by hand after 30 minutes. The next day I apply Odie's Wax with a buffer (a must since it is so tough to apply by hand). I machine buff it using a synthetic lambswool pad. Done. 2 weeks later the surface is totally waterproof. On walnut, I apply Odie's Super Penetrating Oil as my very first step. I have found walnut to be particularly thirsty.
Easily my favorite UA-camr in the woodworking space. He cuts out all the bs, just facts and dry sarcasm, I love this dude. Keeping cranking out content my man 👊🏻
I have a handful of finishes and I've honestly been applying them with no strategy or reason. So much more clear now. Major props on another excellent video!
As a hardwood floor finisher for 35 years i've used almost all of these products. Danish oil is lovely but it wears out quickly in high traffic areas and water droplets on it can turn white and need to be touched up with the oil after buffing. The wax will be similar but waxing another coat is relatively simple and easy compared to coating the oil again. Polyurethane is the most popular choice with three coats of satin being my standard application. Waterbased poly is stronger than oil based poly, but it coats so thin that it looks incomplete with only three coats in my opinion, but that was the standard practice because the product is very expensive for a quality waterbase that has good coating time. Minwax waterbase is the absolute worst product I ever used. I only used Bona products and had great success over the years. Minwax satin oilbased poly is not the worst, but it takes a long time to dry properly and tends to have tiny sections of the finish bubble on dark section of boards where there must be some drying issue. I used only Dura Seal oil poly for the last 12 years and never had the drying issues again. I used the Rubio monocoat one time and I thought it looked cool but wondered how it will hold up to wear. There are some crazy floor finishes out there like Glitsa that are amazingly strong but they are no fun to work with
i have been working profssionally as a carpenter for almost 20 years. Never really looked into finishes, i just used Laquer or Poly, once or twice i have used Tung oil for food surfaces. Thanks for this video never knew there was so much to know about finishes
I've used Minwax Polycrylic on numerous projects where I wanted a clear finish that didn't change the wood color. I use a fine-bristly brush and thin the Polycrylic slightly. It does take a few coats but the dry time is short. Glassy smooth.
How did you thin it? I'm thinking about using Minwax polycrylic on my new unfinished Maple stairs. I'm looking to get a finish that doesn't affect the color or the look of the maple at all and is durable for commercial use.
I'm just getting into making some wood working gifts and choosing finishes feels overwhelming sometimes. Thank you for this video as it really helped clear up a lot of questions I've been having. The side by side comparison of a dozen or so finishes on 4 popular wood types was a perfect way to test everything out.
The more projects you make the more finishes you can apply and build up the experience. Shellac is a great starter finish for the beginner as it can be easily sanded off and reapplied if you get it wrong. Linseed and Danish oil are great as well. Many varnishes I find are hard to get wrong as well. Experiment and keep doing is the best way to learn. This video is good as well.
I bought an unfinished pine dresser and finished it with Minwax Polyshades. The dresser has been through several cross-country moves since then and looks just as good as it did the day I finished it 19 years ago.
I've always used Linseed oil on my workbenches, followed by paste wax. My reasoning is that no finish, no matter how "durable" is going to stand up to the abuse that a workbench is subject to, so I want something that will seal the pores, that glue is easy to scrape off of, and is easy and fast to reapply.
I too love BLO for just about anything that needs to take abuse. I have a pine 2x4 stand for my post vise in my blacksmithing shop, which is covered but not weatherproof by any means. I gave the stand three coats of BLO and it still looks great, even with extreme Maine cold, rain/humidity, and summer heat out there in the shop.
Regarding shellac, if you don’t want the amber color buy blonde or super blonde shellac. Also, shellac makes a great first coat. Use it as a sanding sealer, you’ll get a glass smooth finish. Complete the job with the arm r seal water based poly. I have a kitchen island with 15 years of steady use and after a quick wax it looks brand new. If you want a satin finish, still use gloss material but rub it out with very fine 3m pads to a uniform satin. To make a satin finish they add stearates to the material which softens the finish and can make it look cloudy on figured woods.
Shellac is also great to finish with a wax at the end, which helps improve it's durability a bit. Also shellac is in theory easier to repair than the other film finishes, which can be a selling point certain types of pieces
Good video. Lacquer is hands down the best in my opinion, and have found the Sherwin Williams Pre-cat lacquer to be excellent. It seals the wood amazingly, cabinets built back in the 70's still look incredible, even over the stove. Sanding it is pretty easy and doesn't gum up sandpaper the same way poly does which is incredibly annoying. And the durability is hands down the best, penetrating into the layer underneath creating a single substrate is the best way to go.
You have become my favorite YT woodworker, Congratulations on your success! Like you said, the best finish depends on the use of the item to be finished. Because so many woodworkers finish their shop furniture and fixtures with water based polyurethane, I finished my "small bench tools" bench for portable grinders, a small drill press and band saw, bench sanders, etc. with Minwax Semigloss Polycrylic. I quickly learned what a huge mistake I had made. Even after allowing several days for the finish to dry before using the bench. The rubber feet of the sanders, grinders and the like stuck to the finish in a new spot every time I moved a tool. Ultimately I had to sand as much of the Polycrylic off as I could without removing the birch veneer and refinished with Varathane oil based Polyurethane. All of my harder use bench and tool stand tops are finished with Varathane Polyurethane. Interestingly, the circular foot marks in the Polycrylic telegraphed back through the Varathane even though all visible evidence of them had been sanded off. Lighter wear tool stands like those for the miter saw and jointer are finished with Deft Brushing Lacquer since there is no movement of tools or materials across those surfaces. The brushing lacquer provides a stain resistant, attractive finish that is very easy to repair should it be necessary. I'll eventually use the remainder of a gallon of Polycrylic but only on shop fixtures, French cleat tool hangers and other light duty applications. It's also good for the sides of tool stands and benches that get no wear at all.
Your approach and nature has become one of my preferred places to find information. I love how both polite and abrupt you were about Odie's .... and how you did it anyway. Thanks for this, and keep it going. There's a number of wood channels I'll watch and like, but you, I'll subscribe to.
A few brief notes, oil polyurethane is usually either linseed oil based (amber tone) or soy bean oil based (clear, not amber). As far as it being a finish that sits on the surface, that isn’t actually due to the product itself but how wood workers tend to prep their pieces prior to finishing. Most guys tend to sand out to 220 or higher, which closes the pores of the wood. I sand to 100 grit, thin the poly to 30% and do two coats in an hour which soak in. Wait 24 hours and then sand. The poly penetrates quite deeply especially on white oak, cherry, sycamore , etc. Basically my finish sanding of a piece is incorporated into the finishing process not prior too. It densify’s the surface for one and also won’t chip.
If he doesn't answer, I am guessing he means 30% poly to the rest water. This is what I use. The number one wood damage is from water so I go with the poly. 2 coats to let it sink in good, then sand since the water will raise the grain. Careful with foam applicators, they can leave bubbles, but you can brush those out while still wet. Last coats are 75% poly to 25 water, I think it slows drying and levels better. I never use high gloss. Last coat is is sanded with VERY fine grit or steel wool, then any kind of paste wax over that, like Johnson's, then buff it to a high shine if you want or low luster. This leaves a hand rubbed finish, not at all like plastic. I use this on almost everything. It is by far the cheapest, easiest, and most durable in my experience. This is of course, is all water based poly. Pretty sure that the oil in the solvent based poly is the thing that yellows, so no not a problem with the water based. Also, pay attention to the humidity in the air, this should not dry extra fast, don't let it dry while you are still applying. If you try this method, let me know how you like it.
So sorry for delayed reply. 30% oil based poly 70% mineral spirits on dense woods 50/50 is fine on softer woods like cherry, sycamore, etc. most of time I actually just purchase 5 gallon floor poly (Parks) semi gloss. That floor formulation is a little harder setting and also linseed oil based which I prefer. Generally don’t use a water based due to grain raising unless I’m doing Bartops or exterior with UV exposure, then I use Dalys aquaspar almost exclusively.
I'm a beginner with only 5 or 6 builds under my belt and this helps immensely. I don't want all my hard work undone on the last step. My 1st project 6 years ago was refinishing a dresser and it turned out like trash, so I'm redoing it. I'll use your links when I buy some so you get some kick back. It's the least I can do and I'm happy to for saving me all the time and aggravation.
Most thorough, technical analytical video on wood finish coatings. I love this guy. My father said he has used Minwax longer than I have been alive.... Dad loved this guy's video and analysis. What a great smart utilitarian video on finishing wood. Thank you for this. You are great.
Great video as always! Two things to bear in mind: 1. Lacquer hardens and becomes brittle (I.e. cracks) with time, which is why it's no longer used in the automotive paint world. Cool if you want a chippy look in a few years, I suppose. But, no, nobody really wants that; 2. Always build coats with gloss for optimum clarity. The final coat--Satin, for instance--would be the sheen you're after. Alternatively, you'd use only gloss and sand back to desired sheen if you're after the highest quality finish.
I was wondering if that worked for wood- that’s a popular option when sealing miniatures with spray acrylic, do gloss first for durability and then something like Dullcote for the final layer.
What would you use on a wood dining table and chairs? I think I have an oak table. I was given it for free, and it needs a refinishing. I wasn't sure if I should stain it or paint it. Im trying to learn before I start.
@@ale347baker Congrats on your free score! Stain (and dye) is color that goes under and/or mixed into first coat(s) of clear finish. Wether to paint or use clear finish depends on the look you're after. Either is fine. Within clear finishes you have a few options, depending on what look you desire. "What I'd do" is think it over and figure out what look & maintenance I want and go from there. Options are paint, hard-wax/oil or varnish. Paint & wax/oil are the easiest to apply, with paint being easiest to maintain. Varnish is hardest to apply and takes care to maintain. While not a straight forward answer, I hope this helps. Bottom line is "It depends" on what you want!
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
I've got a metallic flake blue box that I built and wanted a nice thick clear coat on it without having to do all the epoxy work. The Minwax Polycrylic looks absolutely fantastic in that application!
Great video. I would add that while shellac is technically a varnish, it is quite often used as a “sanding sealer” or before grain filling to prevent color bleeding from the filler. I switched from the Minwax as a typical Home Depot armature woodworker (you know the kind that thinks OAK is a fancy hardwood) to the Arm-R-Seal. There really is no comparison between the two. Arm-R-Seal lays flatter, soaks in better and lasts better over time . Minwax can chip away in high traffic areas.
As others have mentioned in the comments, this is one of the best videos on finishing products. Thanks for the work and research you put into it. One thing worth mentioning about Odies ... you can get powdered pigments to mix with oil to achieve whatever colour you want. I find myself adding a bit of white to combat the yellowing of the oil when using it in lighter woods. Rubio also comes in different colours, but you have to buy each one separately and that gets really expensive.
Minwax oil based poly in satin is my go to. You might want to consider Water Based Oil Modified Polyurethane, it’s beginning to win me over. It seems the best of both worlds so far. I also use Danish oil or linseed oil on certain projects depending on what I’m looking for, I usually will final finish them with a minwax paste wax. Good vid. Thank you.
I used to be a professional woodworker and using a paste wax over some kind of varnish/poly or Danish oil provides great results, it really hold up over time too. I'm going to try that oil modified poly, thanks for the suggestion.
Great video! I’ve never found a video that goes as in-depth on finished as you just did, it provided a lot of clarity for me. Thanks for putting in the leg work and helping a novice woodworker like me understand finishes better!
What a great comparison. May a suggest in the follow on including how each of the final list age and handle UV exposure? Some finishes like to yellow after a some sun shine ...
Thanks for great informative video. Watco danish oil has long been my favorite finish, due to beauty of wood it highlights, ease of application and moderate cost. Tage Frid (the Late Great Danish woodworker) used an application method different from that on the can: first coat - flood the surface with Watco and leave it on, next day brush on a second liberal coat, then after five minutes, use 220 grit sandpaper to create a slurry on the wood. The second coat partially dissolves the first coat and provides MUCH more protection while keeping tactile feel and Beauty of oil! Then just let it dry. Next day use 000 steel wool to buff out. It’s a bit labor intensive, but best overall finish!
I have started woodwork classes in São Paulo, with basic Portuguese. This was a good way to get theory on finishes prior going to my class . I have started a few little projects on my own and wished I had seen this video first! Thank you!
Great Vid- I use raw linseed oil and wax finishes on my work- it performs way better than most would say. I wish more woodworkers considered toxicity and environmental impact when doing their work. None of these plastic finishes existed 100 years ago but the furniture still does- give old school finishes a try! Good for everyone involved and easy to maintain
This is so important to take into consideration. Sure everyone wants their pieces to be put to good use forever and ever, but it's still important to consider what would happen if it ends up in a landfill, or left in someone's sideyard or compost in 5 years. Gotta figure even on high traffic stuff like a dining table, with good care like wiping spills immediately, an oak table could last a century with no finish. With a natural oil and maybe a couple reapplications, the same table could last a few centuries. And wouldn't require a refinery to make or be there in thousands of years or potentially become hazardous waste if left to 'rot'. To me it seems a bit greedy to ask for much more than that. Also it's way easier to make a set of coasters to include and teach a customer how to scrub on an oil every few years, than spending days/weeks applying and polishing an epoxy just for it to look like a slab of plastic cause it is
And given how the average woodworker personality is, we should be more realistic, how often do people really leave spills to sit for hours on a table they spent thousands on?? Durability of a finish isn't as important as many expect it to be
I have used Danish Oil on most of my projects over the years. It is easy to work with and provides a good finish. There is really nothing to compare with seeing the wood grain come out when a good finish is applied. That is the pinnacle of woodworking.
@@LitoGeorge I use proportionally by volume, 1/3 each, so 1/3 boiled linseed or tung or a combination , 1/3 vegetable or mineral turps, 1/3 polyurethane. Wipe on generously, allow to tack slightly then wipe off excess. The finish is thin looking like oil but more durable like poly. Satin finish. All danish oil producers have different recipes and this is a variant.
I have tried pretty much every finish there is over the years, and I pretty much use lacquer exclusively, some exceptions being wood counter tops I will use a water based poly, The pros of that is that they dry quick so you can get the job done faster, and they keep dust out because they dry so quick, also when done right they're a beautiful finish. the cons are, you have to have spray them and have to have a booth. danish oil will give you a nice looking finish but it takes forever to get a build on it. Never been a fan of the hard wax oils, they're popular because they're easy and everyone on you tube gets free product and pushes them.
While I do agree with your stance on lacquer finish, hard wax oil are hands down the best looking finishes out there for anything with color or figure. I've been using Odies recently and love it just as much as the other hard waxes except it's even easier to apply. No sponsors here, but real world use.
@@Reign_In_Blood_963 although it wasn't one of the things he listed, for highly figured woods, I love a really thin coat of epoxy. Really brings depth to the chatoyance. Alternatively, I have liked shellac, was finishes and lacquer, or a combination of the three.
I've professionally painted high-end interiors for over 35 years. Lacquer is of course the easiest to apply and looks great but has virtually NO water/moisture resistance. On lower cabinets, especially anywhere near a sink, it will always deteriorate and turn white over time where splashes, drips occur, especially at the bottom of lower cabinet doors where water & moisture accumulate and wick up, regardless of how well you finish all 6 sides. Before I recently retired, I, and most high-end cabinet makers & finishers turned to conversion varnish as the most durable of all. No fun to apply, requires a catalyst, and slower drying than lacquer, but holds up years longer than lacquer.
Hands down the best video on this topic. You speak really well and mix normal lingo and industry lingo throughout. I truly appreciate you making this video.
Tried and True finishes. I mostly turn bowls now and use them exclusively for their food safe compatibility. No extra anything in them. The Shellac you showed is not simply Shellac. It is not recommended as food safe because of the additives. I know you weren't going for food safe but I figured I'd throw it in there. When I DO make furniture I generally use Lacquer. It's relatively tough and dries quickly. Great video, loved the content and production.
All modern wood finishes are food safe. (Note that "modern" rules out lead paint.) See the book _Understanding Wood Finishing_ by Bob Flexnor, page 76 of the 2nd edition, for a discussion of this.
My preference: use two on furniture. I use a natural oil first because I feel like they do a better job of accentuating the grain. I then add water-based varnish to act as a protectant. Sometimes I add a layer of shellac just to provide a sealer layer between the transitions. I usually do the shellac if I don't have the benefit of time to let the oil cure.
@@102nickplays this sounds like a good idea. I recommend 1 to 2 coats of shellac between the linseed oil and (I'm assuming) the poly just to avoid any interfacing issues.
Thanks, I have been doing wood working forever and never been very happy with my finish work. Recently i have improved a lot because of people like you showing me so much. Thanks. I use Odies oil a lot as well.
Excellent work! Just in time for my first serious wood working project, a set of shop cabinets using maple plywood. I think I will go with the Danish Oil. Thank you!
Apply with 0000 steel wool essentially wet sanding it in every coat. It will take several coats before the finish builds enough to look good, but when done right it will look great and very natural. Arm-N-Seal is pretty amazing stuff so you might want to play around with that too. Similar "hand rubbed" look, but builds quicker and can even be brushed on. Cheers.
Tip: Using a water based poly on Cherry stops the cherry from darkening. It remains a light pink color forever. Oil based finishes allow the cherry to darken to a deep red
That's true of not just cherry too. I have seen the same results in all of those exotic hardwoods everyone claims will turn brown over time like padauk and purple heart too.
Wrong. Unless you are using a Spar or poly with UV protectant, Cherry will continue to darken. I've got a dresser 25+ years old and it has darkened to just a fabulous tone.
@@davidmartin9816 Shrug, you must have used a different product. I Used Diamond Poly and the cherry does not darken. My cherry cabinets are still pink 10 years on. With Spar varnish, it darkens to a lovely red over the years, my bathroom cabinet and office table were coated with this and are a lovely shade. I stripped the water based poly off a dining room table that remained stubbornly pink for 7 years, revarnished it in spat varnish and it's already deep red, just two years later.
There's a very old technique for applying shellac known as french polish. In my opinion, it produces the most beautiful, rich, smooth textured finish available. It's not incredibly durable, and takes forever to apply, but it's well worth the effort, especially for smaller pieces.
The look of french polish is divine. Time consuming and once you know how to its not hard to do. Great for small boxes, decorative turnings and low trafic items of great beauty that deserve the best finish.
I use all these products and each has it's own special place. Good video. I'm sure a lot of guys that are new to woodworking will find this very beneficial.
I agree the Osmo Polyx used alone can indeed look dull on Walnut, but not if you use Osmo 1101 Thin Oil first as a pre-treat. This 2-coat wipe on 1101 penetrates more deeply than the regular hard wax oil, and significantly enhances the look of the Osmo Polyx 3043 I use as a final coat (or two). This combo is now my go to finish choice.
@@wcstrawberryfields8011 I have been doing cutting boards for decades, custom built end grain from Jatoba, Purpleheart, Cherry, Walnut and so many other non toxic and exotic hardwoods and the only thing I would ever use is Watco Butcher Block oil. PERIOD! Hands down the very best finish, I promise you that. That would be on a bare wood finished butcher block. If you are reconditioning one you have to sand back down to completely bare wood in order to use that product. Otherwise for maintenance purposes and or reconditioning one that has already been treated I use Howard's Butcher Block conditioner. It has beeswax in it and is a very good anti-microbial for that reason. Works well, I buy it by the gallon. Hope that helps. Those are the only two products I ever use on butcher blocks.
Can’t wait to see a durability test on the hard wax oils. One thing I’ve found is that odies will absolutely water spot, contrary to the text right on the label! You should definitely do liquids as one of the tests.
@badmatt4227 Not sure what you mean by "rubbed areas" but I prep my doors by sanding down to bare wood, spray mohawk ultra penetrating dye stain for color, then spray finish with precat.
I haven't finished a complete project yet, but I did a bunch of test pieces with Odie's Oil/butter/wax, and I really like it. It takes longer to cure than other options, but it smells nice, no VOCs, and I don't have to worry about dust/cat-hair getting stuck in the finish, so I can move pieces inside and out of the shop between coats, or until they're cured enough to use. You also don't need to use any gloves or a mask while applying... it's incredibly easy to use & apply. I also really like the "pigments" that Odie's sells. If you need to add some color to your piece, it's pretty much foolproof. The end-result color doesn't depend on how many coats you apply or how long you let it sit... so it's really hard to mess up (unlike stains). I've settled on: Two coats of Odie's oil (mixed w/pigments, if applicable), followed by a coat of wax or butter (equivalent results, IMO), with a week between coats. The 2nd coat isn't strictly necessary, but I found it makes the finish (and color, if applicable) seem a bit "richer". The wax coat is also probably not necessary, but it adds a nice sheen to the finish.
Outstanding!!! You did a great job reviewing all of the major wood finishes with great detail. I've used them all myself. Let me add one idea. I am 72 yr old, been wood working over 60 yr, and just finished an end table with lacquer. This is the same finish used with custom autos, so I worked with an auto body shop for a little extra guidance. I ended up wet sanding with 3500 grit sand paper to get that great glossy finish. I have a variety of paper grits, powders and even a buffer for finishes. This is just an idea for you for a future video. You do a great job with good home work. Best wishes on the next vid.
Good video! I always advise people who ask to use the finish that's easiest for them. It's so subjective. I was disappointed you didn't mention my favorite finish: Waterlox Original. But there are so many finishes out there! You did a good job, good production values and fast paced
I recently got into the whole woodcraft hobby and made my first small build. I did a but of research on oios and ran across a page that talked about waterlox. I can say it looks really good after my 4th layer.
Lots of really good info, and really appreciate the time and effort to do all of the sample applications. One thing I think is important to clarify is "Tung Oil" Finish and actual 100% pure Tung Oil (with no additives) are very very very different things. Tung Oil Finish can even be a significantly different product between the various vendors as they all add their own concoction of dryers, distillates, etc and usually contains very little actual Tung Oil . Same applies for pure Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) vs BLO. Great video!!
Since I recently looked it up, that specific Watco Tung oil finish is 20% tung oil by weight. The other ingredients help it to dry faster (mineral spirits), and prevent it from hardening/ a film forming in the can. I've heard that some Tung oil finishes can have as little as 5% Tung oil so be aware that they are not all created equal.
Great video and examples. I've tried most of those finishes and still have the 2 hour debate with myself on what I'm going to use on my project when I'm finished building it.
I made red oak cabinets for my kitchen, and I used clear shellac and several coats of clear water based poly for the finish. They came out beautiful and held up well for many years. They were inexpensive and easy to apply and clean up.
A professional painter and finisher friend of mine, (a mentor if you will), who's brain I used to pick occasionally, was a product tester for General Finishes. They are based just a short drive from me in East Troy Wi. Hands down the VERY BEST off the shelf finishes I have ever used and Ive been a finisher for 40 years.
I'd like to know how each finish withstands a hot cup of coffee in a ceramic mug and a damp glass of cold water on a humid day. Maintenance measures would be a convincing test of a proper finish.
Absolutely! Over many years, I've found oil-base polyurethane to be the only finish to hold up on horizontal pieces for use as you describe. I've have this on my dining table for over 10 years and it shows no sign of deteriorating under daily use. Have to re-think it for light woods, however, as we all know it yellows initially and over time.
This right here! This is what I need to know. I’m building a beautiful dining room table that I want to be durable for daily use with kids. Will Rubio stand up to it? How do you clean a table finished with Rubio? I have found very little mention of the practical daily use cases, only fine furniture type applications..
“Tung oil comes from the nuts of the Tung tree” felt like such a missed opportunity 😂 Good video as always, I’ll continue to paint my stuff and leave the finishes to you pros
Great vid. I loved using Osmo Matt finish for my hardwood butcher block 4metre long kitchen counters. I've used their water protection by osmo first, then osmo hardwax. 1 year later it's still looks same as the day I finish it. Even with busy family usage. Looks so much better than the polyurethane from the 90's. These vids are cool. 👍
That's good to hear. I'm finishing our Butcher block countertops with Rubio Pure. Osmo was my other consideration for a finish. You really can't go wrong with the hard wax oil finishes. So easy to apply and repair.
Hey Dani. Can I pick your brain? I'm just about to instal a large butcher block counter top! It's made of white maple. I've been researching and trying to decide between Odie's, Rubio Mono and now Osmo! I need good water protection as our entire counters around the sink etc will be butcher block. Also we like the very white look (matte) of the white maple...ie. I don't want sheen or shine....All this to say...I'm now thinking of going with Osmo 3051 raw - as it will go on a bit "white" keeping that very white natural look. What do you think? Everyone raves about Rubio mono...would I be missing out by not buying that? Again I'm looking for good protection but what is key is the look...I want to keep that un treated / white look...I'd love your thoughts! Thanks.
I completed a project to strip and retore a pair of late 1970's expensive stereo speakers that have original walnut veneer. I ended up using 4 coats of Danish oil, applied 24 hours between coats. I followed 2 of the coats with XXXX steel wool. Then I let that cure for a few days, then I used a coat of Odie's Oil. The result is a glassy smooth and shiny finish. They look fantastic!
Very informative. I have used most of the products shown. Most of them have a place in my shop depending on the piece. Time permitting I prefer an oil undercoat on most finishes. Happy to have found a new channel to watch.
This is such a brilliant comparison video. Really helpful to see how each product affects four different woods. Only improvement would have been to have had a strip with the four woods untreated next to the treated ones to compare with what it looked like originally.
I tend to lean toward the hard wax finishes, and I have used Rubio, OSMO and Odie's - all of which are great products. I like the ease of application with the Rubio and OSMO, but I really appreciate the flexibility of the Odie's. Odie's products allow you to work your way up past the 240-320 grit sand paper to develop a higher sheen, if that's what you are looking for in a finish; they also have a variety of finish products that you can use in steps to build more and more protection.
@@stephangermishuizen1113 Yes, I watched Cam's videos, and he does a great job. I am still experimenting a bit with finishes. I thought I would give Fiddes a try next.
I used Real Milk Paint Co's "Dark Half" on the butcher block counters we installed - it's food safe. I used shellac on the underside before installation. The Dark Half was great (I did three applications), it gave the counters a nice mid-grade (as opposed to folks leaving it the bright birch) tone, as a contrast to the white walls and the 'Lily Pad' (also RMPC) milk paint on the stripped/primed/painted cabinets. I did throw a little Howard's Cutting Board Oil on it, since oil burns into oil...as we put the house on the market. I'm a weirdo that loves shellac. In that same house (from 1910), I went and sanded, topped up the stain, and shellacked all of the stained wood trim downstairs (it was all painted up...by prior folks). Thanks for this side by side. Each project definitely has its own needs. :)
What is your opinion of the best oil for teak wood. Specifically, very nice neglected outdoor hightop table and 4 chair set. I've looked at a plethora of videos and Google articles. Everyone has an opinion and sometimes they are conflicting. I love your channel BTW! Mostly because of its own merits but also I moved away from SC for work and I miss it and my family. I'm a year or so into learning woodworking and I am self taught from mostly UA-cam videos. I enjoy your humor, and your clear and to-the-point explaintions. 😊
@@lauraprice4069 Oh, I think you need to post that as a comment to Lincoln St., not me. :) (while I have refinished the acacia bistro set from Ikea that's been refinished twice...I used Teak Oil after cleaning and sanding it lightly)
The minwax poly is a great protective coating I sprayed it on a classical guitar I stripped. I thinned it slightly ,I didn't want the cedar guitar top to get too dark, but wanted it slightly Amber. The key here is what color is your desired outcome. The Minwax Polyacrylic is a super finish for protecting a stained look you don't want a topcoat to look yellow over , as its what we call (water white). On a credenza, stripped to a grainy light color , I used a solid color stain look for background color, made a brown transparent glaze brushed and wiped to make it appear as a grain filler of color ( a faux natural wood look) If you dont want to use an amber poly oil base, you use the Minwax Polyacrylic to keep the clearcoat to be void of any amber yellow to ruin your base wood colors. The Polyacrylic is really perfect brushing as you apply very thin coats. The water base acrylic dries down revealing no brush marks, it gives a flawless smooth satin or lower gloss effect
Excellent job man! I need to seal 1200sf of T&G ceiling cypress. Keep going back and forth with people....some saying Lacquer some saying poly....you explained it clearly. For my application and fast trying....Lacquer.
This is THE type of comparison I wish everyone would adopt. Top notch video right here; thank you for taking the time to do this! The editing is amazing lol!
Cannot believe you do not talk about finishes like walnut oil. I use walnut oil almost exclusively with my turned wood product and my charcuterie boards. It drys and hardens well. It is reasonably inexpensive and it is an all natural product. Application is easy with a paper towel and can be re-applied at any time. It gives a nice natural finish. If you want more shine you can buff with any number of wax finishes. It’s food safe.
Wonderful breakdown! I just finished a poplar furniture piece and was looking for something that wouldn't darken the wood, but would add some protection, and this video cleared it up for me! Going to do some test patches for General Finishes Hi Performance Satin, Danish oil, and Osmo's Poly-x.
Very nice concise yet detailed comparison of these finishes. I find picking the right finish for a product the most time consuming and overwhelming yet it's the most enjoyable part of the process for me. It's where you get to see if all of your hard work up to that point is going to pay off, or if you're going to have to toss the project on the burn pile and start over. As a side note, I'd love to see you compare Maker Brand Simple Finish to the other hard wax oil finishes. I'm not convinced it's as good as Rubio or Osmo.
I am new to the hardwax oil finishes, I've used Odies and Monocoat. I absolutely love the durability and ease of application of monocoat and the look and smell of the Odies
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath Shellac is a really bad finish IMO, it can't handle humidity, it's soft, and will get a water ring if you put a drink anywhere near it. I will use it as a barrier between incompatible finishes as it is compatible with everything.
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath I honestly don't care about your experience or your antiques. I build guitars and new furniture. Shellac is a sub quality finish, and all my criticisms of it still stand. I don't care if it's easy to repair, it still needs constant repair. Lacquer is also an out dated low quality finish. Your novel doesn't change that fact
Thank you! We have been on a journey to figure out the perfect finish for 2 years now for our modular solid wood tables and we did actually land on the wax oils just like you. And we went with the odie's oil! WE LOVE the stuff. I wonder why they didn't want to be included in the video. Interesting..
Great video! Was there ever an update with the durability test for the waxes? I'm trying to decide what to use as a top coat for a desk and your results make me want to second guess the poly.
I’m so angry right now! You literally boiled down every important detail that I’ve learned about all of these finishes into a 13 min video! The problem is it took me probably 200 hours of research over the last 6 years to sift through all the other useless info about these products. Where was this video 6 years ago! 😂
The polys are an lying..They dry to fast. You are doing an area and try toale a nice brush stroke or is already drying so you can't even it out. 😡. Gel works great and easy as glaze. Wipe on, wipe off. I went to poly or clear coat to protect paint.
Nice work here. I do hate Odie's with a passion. An absolute chatoyance killer. I was relieved when mine hardened in the jar - gave me an excuse to discard such an expensive product. I love Osmo satin, apply it with steel wool over a wash coat of shellac. My use of Watco danish oil goes back to the 70's. It used to be a good finish I'm convinced they have increased the solvent ratio as a means of cost cutting. To use up the quart cans I have left I need warm weather so I can set it out in shallow dishes to evaporate off that excess solvent before application. There's just no sense in soaking a project with mineral spirits as is done with Watco. For those who haven't thought it through, the solvent sinks in deeply, not the solids. They dry after a day or so and seal in all that solvent, which then takes a week or so to evap back out through the surface. I won't be buying the modern Watco again.
Okay, this video is great. I have searched for a ton of videos and try to understand the differences between all the finished, this is just the clearest among all. Thanks!
Thanks for a very good comparison. I really like the oils. I agree that the ‘polycrylic’ is worst finish of the varnishes. Of the oils I have been experimenting with a hand made mix of the ‘tung oil’ and varnish. (Use two to three Tablespoons vanish to one cup tung oil.See the workshop companion video comparison.) This seems to leave a nice satin/eggshell finish and requires 2-3 coats. Thanks again.
For longevity and durability, which finishing products would you recommend for exterior wood (natural look) such as wooden decks and garden furniture? Would need to be UV resistant, water resistant and withstand fluctuations in temperature (4 degrees Celsius to 32 degrees celsius) and humidity and last for at least 5 years before needing to be re-done. Also, could you do a review on polyester finishes and how they compare to polyurethane.
Anything in a "natural" does not have UV protection, it is necessary to have some pigment in it, a clear exterior stain will not last as long, no matter what the manufacturer says. In my personal experience of over 4 decades now the best product I have found, so far, for exterior use is TWP stain. It has lasted the longest of all others that fade away. The redwood fence I did at my home is now 5 years old and still looks the same as it did when first applied. Starting to show a few signs of needing a re-coat, but the color is 100% intact still. It is also a class A fire rated fence (we live in high fire danger area, or should we call it the lack of common sense area), and the wood sealer fire retardant is only as good as long as the stain is good for, I did the testing on these products and was the guinea pig. I did the fire testing and sent it off to a lab for age testing on how long it would last and hold it's fire retardant capabilities. My initial assessments are that every 7-10 years I will have to redo, but, as I watch my fence age, I can tell the product is still locked in under the topcoat of TWP and I think that if I refinish again before it loses that sealer penetration I won't have to apply the fire retardant sealer again. I have an ongoing aging product sample to test, and I will fire test it before I re-coat. I have used so many different exterior wood stain products, to impress me is not easy, TWP has impressed me. Unlike so many of the other products that are so hard to deal with, it's a product that you don't have to strip down to refinish. You just pressure wash with cleaner, neutralize the PH, let dry and refinish. I wish I had found this stuff 30 years ago! I have only been using it for about 10 years now. If you are dealing with hardwood decks they have one made for that as well, unfortunately, some of their products are hard to get in California. That is one of them, that's okay, I travel to relatives that don't live here and bring back what I need. Don't tell me what I can and cannot do!! This is the USA, so sick of this moron state of confusion it is not even funny. Everything good they outlaw in this state to protect stupid people from doing stupid stuff. It's ridiculous. My advice is to use TWP stain, pick a tint, cedartone is pretty neutral, that way you get the UV protection. I have redwood fence boards in the clear formula on a gate I built, it has been faded and needs to be re-done in about 4 years. The fence with tint on it, still good to go. Best advice I can give you. Cheers, Woodmeister.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Unfortunately, TWP not available in South Africa. If I applied a tint to sanded wood and then numerous coats of polyurethane, do You think I would get a long lasting durable uv resistant finish. Its just for garden furniture and wooden doors and window frames that get a lot of exposure to sun and rain. @@kelvinreed853
This was crazy informative. I knew finishing products were different but I guess I never really gave it a lot of thought. Danish oil has always been my go to for nicer projects just because I like the "natural" look and feel but I'm really liking all of the hard-wax finishes. Great video!
Just don't use it on an open grain wood, like Hickory!!!! I did and it took weeks to dry! It was weeping so bad I had to wipe it off daily for what seemed like an eternity!
@@daniellec2172 I guess you could, but I can't stand the look of Poplar. It is great for painting, but nothing else, in my opinion. Try a test piece to see what you think first. At the end of the day, if you like it, then no one else's opinion matters.
@@charlieodom9107 I normally don't like the look either, but this big piece I have is super nice, looks like a pale maple. My concern is that poplar is thought to not take oils well, correct? Also, poplar as it oxidizes turns into a nice amber shade with no green (I'm into lighter woods over darks).
I'm personally in love with lacquer right now it's so nice because it dries quickly and it makes a beautiful coat with no dripping. Note... I am using it to finish guitars. I have used a lot of polyurethane on furniture and I like it too. But lacquer in spray form is phenomenal
This might be the single greatest video I've seen on any channel in months. Absolutely got right down to the core of the issue, didn't add a lot of nonsense fluff to pad the video time, and was entertaining the whole way. I'm gonna make the other guys in our shop watch this video this afternoon. It might become required viewing for all new employees.
Thank you Mike!
Completely agree and can add nothing to it except to commend both of you. Amen.
If you like this kind of stuff, Project Farm does a lot of comparison between lots of tools and things with very little fluff. Not really woodwork focused, but still good if you have a manual labor job/hobby.
@@Zachafinackus I really appreciate the recommendation, thank you!
Agreed. Super straightforward, visually helpful, and no nonsense. Well done.
This dude has rapidly become my favorite woodworker. He keeps his videos short and to the point and cuts out the BS. Please don’t sell out and start pushing products
Thank Peter! Don't worry, I wont be doing that
@@Lincolnstww Sell out if you believe in the product. I have no problem with that.
Also, really enjoyed the video. Well done.
So agree with you, seems more and more people are dragging out a 10 minutes video to 30 mins or making a 5 part series for something that IMO should be a single 30 minute video. I know channels where a finish compare would be a 4 part series of 45 minute videos, I just cant be bothered with those!
Why didn't he put in a 1 1/2 min ad for some bs company in the middle like everyone else?
If only all UA-cam videos were as informative and direct as this one, we would have more time to do our woodworking. Clearly one of the best videos I have watched. Right to the point.
Clear and to the point for beginners. But he did miss some excellent products that most of the UA-cam presenters to beginners miss.
ProjectFarm: Allow me to introduce myself
I grew up in a custom furniture shop, learned finishing from my father, a master (lacquer, Danish oil, and wax) and in this 13-minute video I learned more than the prior sum total of my knowledge. And without giving away any of the really high-level secret techniques. Well done!
What are those high-level secret techniques? I want tell anyone. My lips are sealed.
@@twinenk15yeah, mine too!
Secrets go hand in hand with concentrated power.
Please, don't squander your knowledge.
Even if a Mexican-born individual might "take your job" because of it.
Why would someone not give all the information? I’m sure someone has put it out there.
Thank you! I've progressed in my woodworking journey from the poly finishes to Tung oil and now use only the hard wax oils. I've been going between Odie's and the Osmo products lately. For my cutting boards, I've settled on Odie's as my go-to. Simple to apply, easy fixes, looks great, and makes the product easier for my customers to maintain. Since they're mostly end-grain, I will generally flood with mineral oil, then cover with Odie's for the sheen. I really appreciate your diligence on this video. Thanks again for taking the time!
You should try Watco Butcher Block Oil. Best thing for end grain butcher blocks. There is nothing better. I have been doing it for decades now. It can't be beat. I even use it to finish butcher bock countertops as well. It's not just an opinion either, it is a fact that results prove.
What a great way to finish off the year!
booooo
badum tss
Heh, I see what you did there. 😁
I have been playing at woodworking for 25 years. During that time I have repeatedly consulted books and videos and magazine articles to try to get my mind around the differences between the different kinds of finishes, but never succeeded in organizing the info in a way that was memorable (i.e., useful). Your video swept all the jumbled, useless scraps of info out of my brain and replaced them with a clear and concise explanation not only that I understood, but also that I could remember and easily refer to. Thank you so very, very much. This is the first video of yours that I've seen, and I just subscribed.
Great comparisons. One factor that should also be included though is toxicity, which is a long term health concern for applicators, as well as requires more PPE which adds to the annoyance of using some of these products, particularly lacquers. There is also a not insignificant fire hazard associated with using lacquer products.
Great video - thank you. My first use of Danish oil was on the New Guinea Rosewood bed I made for my wife. 20 years on that bed still looks the bomb!! Will never go back to poly ever again. Cheers.
As a boat builder and boat repairman I would suggest a product that you would be amazed by... Profin from Daly's Wood finishes. Profin is a hard drying quick setting
oil finish that is exceptionally durable. Profin produces a professional finish and is often used when spraying is not practical. Profin is recommended for wood surfaces such a furniture, cabinet doors, milwork and paneling doors. It has an amber color and soaks in well to most woods.
Originally Profin was developed to just wipe on a coat, let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe it of with a rag ... but not too dry. I ran into Profin as the finish of the cabin teak and holly veneer floor panels in Hunter Sailboats. They applied a very thick coat of Profin on the panels... perhaps 1/6" inch thick... to the floor panels so the finish was glossy and tough and lasted years in these sailboats.
Originally it was recommended to apply one to two coats, each wiped off after application it was said to be well sealed. If you apply Profin
with a foam brush and do not wipe it off but allow it to just dry as a clear finish... it dries very hard and with a beautiful gloss (if you are applying gloss finish). It is a modified resin oil finish that is close to a polyurethane when dried but its amber color and its ability to lay down beautifully makes for a super beautiful glossy finish (applied on any larger surface with a foam brush) that projects the beauty of the wood. It comes in a satin but I mostly use the gloss.
One more thing, on simple tables or shop jigs etc, it is a great one coat sealer to appear like a single coat of tongue oil with a bit of amber warmth... yet dries with no perceptable
layer on the wood...but sealed very well.
I have used it quite a bit to refinish the plane totes (handles and knobs) on restored Stanley hand planes and the Rosewood handles look exquisite with a deep gloss very tough finish. Profin in a thicker finish dries and lays down beautifully on large projects just like glossy like polyurethane.
Fair winds
brinkboatrepair.com
I had a finishing shop for years and primarily used Nitrocellulose lacquer for everything. I restored antiques to more modern furniture. A finish for an antique could vary but when using lacquer you can mimic many finishes. I NEVER used a poly. I only preferred a finish which could easily be removed or touched up in the future. For durability on tables we often used a Catalytic lacquer. But as you stated. There's no best finish because of the many variables. There's more to a finish than just wiping some product on and off. Some more sophisticated looks require staining, glazing and shading as well as a top coat.
It took me 7 years of trial and error to come to the conclusions provided in this super informative video. Great job. I'm going to recommend this to anyone who asks "what should i use to finish my project?"
SO SO SO helpful! Thank you! I'm an amateur hobbyist woodworker and am almost done building my first tack trunk (for horse equipment). This is roughly my 5th or 6th project that I've built ever. I'm super proud of it and want to make sure it looks good and can withstand heavy use, but also want a product that - as more of a newbie - I won't be likely to mess up. Since I'm using birch plywood for the majority of the build, with pine planks and moulding for trim, with some cedar tongue and groove on the inside, and a thin strip of oak trim to cover the bare plywood edges on top which will be exposed when you open the lid, I have a bit of a mix....I may stain the outside of the box first (leaving the inside natural), so I have that to contend with first as well. Needless to say, having a comparison like this is going to help me immensely when I get ready to finish it.
This is the best video I've seen on wood finishing. The two follow up finish videos that I'd love to see you make: 1. Durability testing (like Project Farm). 2. Color change over time (polyurethane turns yellow-orange over time, etc).
I am a 68 year old American man. Retired. I painted 300 houses. If you need to seal anything that will be outside, consider Unboiled Linseed Oil. It dries very slowly, so penetrates deeply. Usually, you will have to order it.
Well explained! Thank you. For many years I have used Odie's exclusively. I have gotten fabulous results and my customers love it. It's not expensive considering how much mileage you get from it. Technically, it's cheaper in the long run considering it is equivalent to 1-1/2 gallon of poly. Plus, no issues with dust nibs or having a sterile shop. I use a 6" car buffer to apply it and buff it off. No respirators either. It's a no-brainer.
Can I ask: do you ever do a coat of regular paste wax after odie's oil?
And for a high use piece like a coffee table, is odie's oil hearty enough or do you need to use the butter or wax?
@@andydixon6759 Absolutely! That's not exclusive to Odie's. All finishes should receive wax periodically. Odie's Wood Butter is a combination of Oil and Wax. Their wax is amazing by itself. It's darn near bulletproof. Tough to apply but incredibly tough. Need a buffer to apply.
What kind of pad do you use with the car buffer? I applied Odie's with a scotchbrite pad by hand and then buffed off with an old cotton t-shirt. Then finished by buffing with a scotchbrite cut into a circle, stuck to my random orbital sander.
@@mattpetti7571 I use a microfiber pad. $2 each at Walmart. I've tried other types but those have worked the best for me. I too buff by hand. I've never bothered to buff with a scrotchbrite for final finishing. Do you get better results?
@@mattpetti7571 My process is to apply Odie's with a microfiber pad. Wait 30 minutes, then do it again just in case some areas absorbed more oil. After 30 minutes I buff by hand. After 24 hours, I apply Odie's Wood Butter and buff it off by hand after 30 minutes. The next day I apply Odie's Wax with a buffer (a must since it is so tough to apply by hand). I machine buff it using a synthetic lambswool pad. Done. 2 weeks later the surface is totally waterproof.
On walnut, I apply Odie's Super Penetrating Oil as my very first step. I have found walnut to be particularly thirsty.
Easily my favorite UA-camr in the woodworking space. He cuts out all the bs, just facts and dry sarcasm, I love this dude. Keeping cranking out content my man 👊🏻
Thank you!
He have same sense of humor as me and i am half globe on other side 🙂 also hate epoxi tables 🤣
@@covakoma1064 you should watch Matt Estlea's epoxy table video 🤣
@@davidpeters8813 watched, boooooring 😁, I have idea for epoxy table but it will take me time to made it
I just stumbled upon this channel and am impressed. I'd also recommend Stumpy Nubs if you haven't seen his videos.
I have a handful of finishes and I've honestly been applying them with no strategy or reason. So much more clear now. Major props on another excellent video!
Thanks Greg - glad you found it helpful
+1
As a hardwood floor finisher for 35 years i've used almost all of these products. Danish oil is lovely but it wears out quickly in high traffic areas and water droplets on it can turn white and need to be touched up with the oil after buffing. The wax will be similar but waxing another coat is relatively simple and easy compared to coating the oil again. Polyurethane is the most popular choice with three coats of satin being my standard application. Waterbased poly is stronger than oil based poly, but it coats so thin that it looks incomplete with only three coats in my opinion, but that was the standard practice because the product is very expensive for a quality waterbase that has good coating time. Minwax waterbase is the absolute worst product I ever used. I only used Bona products and had great success over the years. Minwax satin oilbased poly is not the worst, but it takes a long time to dry properly and tends to have tiny sections of the finish bubble on dark section of boards where there must be some drying issue. I used only Dura Seal oil poly for the last 12 years and never had the drying issues again. I used the Rubio monocoat one time and I thought it looked cool but wondered how it will hold up to wear. There are some crazy floor finishes out there like Glitsa that are amazingly strong but they are no fun to work with
i have been working profssionally as a carpenter for almost 20 years. Never really looked into finishes, i just used Laquer or Poly, once or twice i have used Tung oil for food surfaces. Thanks for this video never knew there was so much to know about finishes
I've used Minwax Polycrylic on numerous projects where I wanted a clear finish that didn't change the wood color. I use a fine-bristly brush and thin the Polycrylic slightly. It does take a few coats but the dry time is short. Glassy smooth.
You can get the same with a clear shellac cut in two or three layers but it is not a durable hard finish for a work surface.
How did you thin it? I'm thinking about using Minwax polycrylic on my new unfinished Maple stairs. I'm looking to get a finish that doesn't affect the color or the look of the maple at all and is durable for commercial use.
I'm just getting into making some wood working gifts and choosing finishes feels overwhelming sometimes. Thank you for this video as it really helped clear up a lot of questions I've been having. The side by side comparison of a dozen or so finishes on 4 popular wood types was a perfect way to test everything out.
The more projects you make the more finishes you can apply and build up the experience. Shellac is a great starter finish for the beginner as it can be easily sanded off and reapplied if you get it wrong. Linseed and Danish oil are great as well. Many varnishes I find are hard to get wrong as well.
Experiment and keep doing is the best way to learn. This video is good as well.
@@bighands69 Yes. This video can be sanded off and reapplied at very little cost, and each time you learn something new.
I bought an unfinished pine dresser and finished it with Minwax Polyshades. The dresser has been through several cross-country moves since then and looks just as good as it did the day I finished it 19 years ago.
I love polyshades! Another finish that I think is hard to mess up.
This is the only time I’ll ever thank you, UA-cam! Thanks for finally recommending a video worthy of watching time and time again.
haha well done UA-cam!
This guy is great. I am really a busy person (job, exercise, victorian house etc) so I need guys like this who know their stuff. Thx
I've always used Linseed oil on my workbenches, followed by paste wax. My reasoning is that no finish, no matter how "durable" is going to stand up to the abuse that a workbench is subject to, so I want something that will seal the pores, that glue is easy to scrape off of, and is easy and fast to reapply.
I too love BLO for just about anything that needs to take abuse. I have a pine 2x4 stand for my post vise in my blacksmithing shop, which is covered but not weatherproof by any means. I gave the stand three coats of BLO and it still looks great, even with extreme Maine cold, rain/humidity, and summer heat out there in the shop.
@@deliaguzman1138Same rec for say an outdoor bench?
@@MadLadsAnonymous varnish will last longer
Great stuff bud! Love these
Who doesn't love a good self-wetting vid
Hey Jimmy Kimmel.
Love your channel too
@@spicemasterii6775 Such a stale, overdone, lousy, uninteresting joke.
Regarding shellac, if you don’t want the amber color buy blonde or super blonde shellac. Also, shellac makes a great first coat. Use it as a sanding sealer, you’ll get a glass smooth finish. Complete the job with the arm r seal water based poly. I have a kitchen island with 15 years of steady use and after a quick wax it looks brand new. If you want a satin finish, still use gloss material but rub it out with very fine 3m pads to a uniform satin. To make a satin finish they add stearates to the material which softens the finish and can make it look cloudy on figured woods.
Shellac is also great to finish with a wax at the end, which helps improve it's durability a bit. Also shellac is in theory easier to repair than the other film finishes, which can be a selling point certain types of pieces
Good video. Lacquer is hands down the best in my opinion, and have found the Sherwin Williams Pre-cat lacquer to be excellent. It seals the wood amazingly, cabinets built back in the 70's still look incredible, even over the stove. Sanding it is pretty easy and doesn't gum up sandpaper the same way poly does which is incredibly annoying. And the durability is hands down the best, penetrating into the layer underneath creating a single substrate is the best way to go.
You have become my favorite YT woodworker, Congratulations on your success! Like you said, the best finish depends on the use of the item to be finished. Because so many woodworkers finish their shop furniture and fixtures with water based polyurethane, I finished my "small bench tools" bench for portable grinders, a small drill press and band saw, bench sanders, etc. with Minwax Semigloss Polycrylic. I quickly learned what a huge mistake I had made. Even after allowing several days for the finish to dry before using the bench. The rubber feet of the sanders, grinders and the like stuck to the finish in a new spot every time I moved a tool. Ultimately I had to sand as much of the Polycrylic off as I could without removing the birch veneer and refinished with Varathane oil based Polyurethane. All of my harder use bench and tool stand tops are finished with Varathane Polyurethane. Interestingly, the circular foot marks in the Polycrylic telegraphed back through the Varathane even though all visible evidence of them had been sanded off.
Lighter wear tool stands like those for the miter saw and jointer are finished with Deft Brushing Lacquer since there is no movement of tools or materials across those surfaces. The brushing lacquer provides a stain resistant, attractive finish that is very easy to repair should it be necessary.
I'll eventually use the remainder of a gallon of Polycrylic but only on shop fixtures, French cleat tool hangers and other light duty applications. It's also good for the sides of tool stands and benches that get no wear at all.
As someone who just got into making his own picture frames, the variety of finishes is overwhelming. Thanks for the clarity!
Your approach and nature has become one of my preferred places to find information. I love how both polite and abrupt you were about Odie's .... and how you did it anyway. Thanks for this, and keep it going. There's a number of wood channels I'll watch and like, but you, I'll subscribe to.
A few brief notes, oil polyurethane is usually either linseed oil based (amber tone) or soy bean oil based (clear, not amber). As far as it being a finish that sits on the surface, that isn’t actually due to the product itself but how wood workers tend to prep their pieces prior to finishing. Most guys tend to sand out to 220 or higher, which closes the pores of the wood. I sand to 100 grit, thin the poly to 30% and do two coats in an hour which soak in. Wait 24 hours and then sand. The poly penetrates quite deeply especially on white oak, cherry, sycamore , etc. Basically my finish sanding of a piece is incorporated into the finishing process not prior too. It densify’s the surface for one and also won’t chip.
When you say 30, that's 30% poly and 70% thinner? And do you have a favorite brand or brands (maybe depending on wood species)?
I'd like to know the answer also. Great tip!
If he doesn't answer, I am guessing he means 30% poly to the rest water. This is what I use. The number one wood damage is from water so I go with the poly. 2 coats to let it sink in good, then sand since the water will raise the grain. Careful with foam applicators, they can leave bubbles, but you can brush those out while still wet. Last coats are 75% poly to 25 water, I think it slows drying and levels better. I never use high gloss. Last coat is is sanded with VERY fine grit or steel wool, then any kind of paste wax over that, like Johnson's, then buff it to a high shine if you want or low luster. This leaves a hand rubbed finish, not at all like plastic. I use this on almost everything. It is by far the cheapest, easiest, and most durable in my experience. This is of course, is all water based poly. Pretty sure that the oil in the solvent based poly is the thing that yellows, so no not a problem with the water based. Also, pay attention to the humidity in the air, this should not dry extra fast, don't let it dry while you are still applying. If you try this method, let me know how you like it.
So sorry for delayed reply. 30% oil based poly 70% mineral spirits on dense woods 50/50 is fine on softer woods like cherry, sycamore, etc. most of time I actually just purchase 5 gallon floor poly (Parks) semi gloss. That floor formulation is a little harder setting and also linseed oil based which I prefer. Generally don’t use a water based due to grain raising unless I’m doing Bartops or exterior with UV exposure, then I use Dalys aquaspar almost exclusively.
Sand to 100? You’re a hack. No amount of sanding “closes” the pores.
I'm a beginner with only 5 or 6 builds under my belt and this helps immensely. I don't want all my hard work undone on the last step. My 1st project 6 years ago was refinishing a dresser and it turned out like trash, so I'm redoing it. I'll use your links when I buy some so you get some kick back. It's the least I can do and I'm happy to for saving me all the time and aggravation.
Most thorough, technical analytical video on wood finish coatings.
I love this guy. My father said he has used Minwax longer than I have been alive....
Dad loved this guy's video and analysis.
What a great smart utilitarian video on finishing wood.
Thank you for this. You are great.
Thank you!
Great video as always! Two things to bear in mind: 1. Lacquer hardens and becomes brittle (I.e. cracks) with time, which is why it's no longer used in the automotive paint world. Cool if you want a chippy look in a few years, I suppose. But, no, nobody really wants that; 2. Always build coats with gloss for optimum clarity. The final coat--Satin, for instance--would be the sheen you're after. Alternatively, you'd use only gloss and sand back to desired sheen if you're after the highest quality finish.
I was wondering if that worked for wood- that’s a popular option when sealing miniatures with spray acrylic, do gloss first for durability and then something like Dullcote for the final layer.
What would you use on a wood dining table and chairs? I think I have an oak table. I was given it for free, and it needs a refinishing. I wasn't sure if I should stain it or paint it. Im trying to learn before I start.
@@ale347baker Congrats on your free score!
Stain (and dye) is color that goes under and/or mixed into first coat(s) of clear finish.
Wether to paint or use clear finish depends on the look you're after. Either is fine. Within clear finishes you have a few options, depending on what look you desire. "What I'd do" is think it over and figure out what look & maintenance I want and go from there.
Options are paint, hard-wax/oil or varnish. Paint & wax/oil are the easiest to apply, with paint being easiest to maintain. Varnish is hardest to apply and takes care to maintain.
While not a straight forward answer, I hope this helps. Bottom line is "It depends" on what you want!
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
I've got a metallic flake blue box that I built and wanted a nice thick clear coat on it without having to do all the epoxy work. The Minwax Polycrylic looks absolutely fantastic in that application!
Great video. I would add that while shellac is technically a varnish, it is quite often used as a “sanding sealer” or before grain filling to prevent color bleeding from the filler.
I switched from the Minwax as a typical Home Depot armature woodworker (you know the kind that thinks OAK is a fancy hardwood) to the Arm-R-Seal. There really is no comparison between the two. Arm-R-Seal lays flatter, soaks in better and lasts better over time . Minwax can chip away in high traffic areas.
As others have mentioned in the comments, this is one of the best videos on finishing products. Thanks for the work and research you put into it.
One thing worth mentioning about Odies ... you can get powdered pigments to mix with oil to achieve whatever colour you want. I find myself adding a bit of white to combat the yellowing of the oil when using it in lighter woods.
Rubio also comes in different colours, but you have to buy each one separately and that gets really expensive.
Minwax oil based poly in satin is my go to. You might want to consider Water Based Oil Modified Polyurethane, it’s beginning to win me over. It seems the best of both worlds so far. I also use Danish oil or linseed oil on certain projects depending on what I’m looking for, I usually will final finish them with a minwax paste wax. Good vid. Thank you.
I used to be a professional woodworker and using a paste wax over some kind of varnish/poly or Danish oil provides great results, it really hold up over time too. I'm going to try that oil modified poly, thanks for the suggestion.
Great video! I’ve never found a video that goes as in-depth on finished as you just did, it provided a lot of clarity for me. Thanks for putting in the leg work and helping a novice woodworker like me understand finishes better!
What a great comparison. May a suggest in the follow on including how each of the final list age and handle UV exposure? Some finishes like to yellow after a some sun shine ...
Sounds like a great follow up video in a year or so! 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for great informative video. Watco danish oil has long been my favorite finish, due to beauty of wood it highlights, ease of application and moderate cost. Tage Frid (the Late Great Danish woodworker) used an application method different from that on the can: first coat - flood the surface with Watco and leave it on, next day brush on a second liberal coat, then after five minutes, use 220 grit sandpaper to create a slurry on the wood. The second coat partially dissolves the first coat and provides MUCH more protection while keeping tactile feel and Beauty of oil! Then just let it dry. Next day use 000 steel wool to buff out. It’s a bit labor intensive, but best overall finish!
I have started woodwork classes in São Paulo, with basic Portuguese. This was a good way to get theory on finishes prior going to my class .
I have started a few little projects on my own and wished I had seen this video first! Thank you!
Great Vid- I use raw linseed oil and wax finishes on my work- it performs way better than most would say. I wish more woodworkers considered toxicity and environmental impact when doing their work. None of these plastic finishes existed 100 years ago but the furniture still does- give old school finishes a try! Good for everyone involved and easy to maintain
Raw linseed oil is _very_ slow to polymerise and apart from tool handles I’ve only ever mixed it with boiled (aka stand oil).
This is so important to take into consideration. Sure everyone wants their pieces to be put to good use forever and ever, but it's still important to consider what would happen if it ends up in a landfill, or left in someone's sideyard or compost in 5 years. Gotta figure even on high traffic stuff like a dining table, with good care like wiping spills immediately, an oak table could last a century with no finish. With a natural oil and maybe a couple reapplications, the same table could last a few centuries. And wouldn't require a refinery to make or be there in thousands of years or potentially become hazardous waste if left to 'rot'. To me it seems a bit greedy to ask for much more than that. Also it's way easier to make a set of coasters to include and teach a customer how to scrub on an oil every few years, than spending days/weeks applying and polishing an epoxy just for it to look like a slab of plastic cause it is
And given how the average woodworker personality is, we should be more realistic, how often do people really leave spills to sit for hours on a table they spent thousands on?? Durability of a finish isn't as important as many expect it to be
I have used Danish Oil on most of my projects over the years. It is easy to work with and provides a good finish. There is really nothing to compare with seeing the wood grain come out when a good finish is applied. That is the pinnacle of woodworking.
I make my own "Danish oil" even better.
@@spudpud-T67 would you mind sharing your recipe?
@@LitoGeorge I use proportionally by volume, 1/3 each, so 1/3 boiled linseed or tung or a combination , 1/3 vegetable or mineral turps, 1/3 polyurethane. Wipe on generously, allow to tack slightly then wipe off excess. The finish is thin looking like oil but more durable like poly. Satin finish. All danish oil producers have different recipes and this is a variant.
@@spudpud-T67 that's great info, thank you. Be well.
I have tried pretty much every finish there is over the years, and I pretty much use lacquer exclusively, some exceptions being wood counter tops I will use a water based poly, The pros of that is that they dry quick so you can get the job done faster, and they keep dust out because they dry so quick, also when done right they're a beautiful finish. the cons are, you have to have spray them and have to have a booth. danish oil will give you a nice looking finish but it takes forever to get a build on it. Never been a fan of the hard wax oils, they're popular because they're easy and everyone on you tube gets free product and pushes them.
While I do agree with your stance on lacquer finish, hard wax oil are hands down the best looking finishes out there for anything with color or figure. I've been using Odies recently and love it just as much as the other hard waxes except it's even easier to apply. No sponsors here, but real world use.
@@Reign_In_Blood_963 although it wasn't one of the things he listed, for highly figured woods, I love a really thin coat of epoxy. Really brings depth to the chatoyance.
Alternatively, I have liked shellac, was finishes and lacquer, or a combination of the three.
I've professionally painted high-end interiors for over 35 years. Lacquer is of course the easiest to apply and looks great but has virtually NO water/moisture resistance. On lower cabinets, especially anywhere near a sink, it will always deteriorate and turn white over time where splashes, drips occur, especially at the bottom of lower cabinet doors where water & moisture accumulate and wick up, regardless of how well you finish all 6 sides.
Before I recently retired, I, and most high-end cabinet makers & finishers turned to conversion varnish as the most durable of all. No fun to apply, requires a catalyst, and slower drying than lacquer, but holds up years longer than lacquer.
@@hmac66 yes I use conversion varnish as well I call it lacquer, I also use pre cat in some applications.
@@adamchesis7443 Hi Adam, thanks for the reply. I'm not sure what you mean when you say " I use conversion varnish as well I call it lacquer".
The only clip I found so far that is informative and to the point. Many videos nowadays are very lengthy just to get views with non-sense talking.
Hands down the best video on this topic. You speak really well and mix normal lingo and industry lingo throughout. I truly appreciate you making this video.
Tried and True finishes. I mostly turn bowls now and use them exclusively for their food safe compatibility. No extra anything in them. The Shellac you showed is not simply Shellac. It is not recommended as food safe because of the additives. I know you weren't going for food safe but I figured I'd throw it in there.
When I DO make furniture I generally use Lacquer. It's relatively tough and dries quickly.
Great video, loved the content and production.
All modern wood finishes are food safe. (Note that "modern" rules out lead paint.) See the book _Understanding Wood Finishing_ by Bob Flexnor, page 76 of the 2nd edition, for a discussion of this.
My preference: use two on furniture. I use a natural oil first because I feel like they do a better job of accentuating the grain. I then add water-based varnish to act as a protectant. Sometimes I add a layer of shellac just to provide a sealer layer between the transitions. I usually do the shellac if I don't have the benefit of time to let the oil cure.
What about oak stair treads? Im thinking to apply a few coat of linseed oil. Then go back with the high performance satin.
@@102nickplays this sounds like a good idea. I recommend 1 to 2 coats of shellac between the linseed oil and (I'm assuming) the poly just to avoid any interfacing issues.
Videos like this are why I'm subscribed to this guy. Concise, well done, and extremely informative.
I have been looking for a video like this for years. You explain the massive finish options without wasting my time. Subscribed.
Thanks, I have been doing wood working forever and never been very happy with my finish work. Recently i have improved a lot because of people like you showing me so much. Thanks. I use Odies oil a lot as well.
Thats awesome to hear!
Excellent work! Just in time for my first serious wood working project, a set of shop cabinets using maple plywood. I think I will go with the Danish Oil. Thank you!
Apply with 0000 steel wool essentially wet sanding it in every coat. It will take several coats before the finish builds enough to look good, but when done right it will look great and very natural. Arm-N-Seal is pretty amazing stuff so you might want to play around with that too. Similar "hand rubbed" look, but builds quicker and can even be brushed on. Cheers.
Tip: Using a water based poly on Cherry stops the cherry from darkening. It remains a light pink color forever. Oil based finishes allow the cherry to darken to a deep red
That's true of not just cherry too. I have seen the same results in all of those exotic hardwoods everyone claims will turn brown over time like padauk and purple heart too.
@@karl_alan Good piece of info there. Thanks.
Wrong. Unless you are using a Spar or poly with UV protectant, Cherry will continue to darken. I've got a dresser 25+ years old and it has darkened to just a fabulous tone.
@@davidmartin9816 Shrug, you must have used a different product. I Used Diamond Poly and the cherry does not darken. My cherry cabinets are still pink 10 years on. With Spar varnish, it darkens to a lovely red over the years, my bathroom cabinet and office table were coated with this and are a lovely shade. I stripped the water based poly off a dining room table that remained stubbornly pink for 7 years, revarnished it in spat varnish and it's already deep red, just two years later.
There's a very old technique for applying shellac known as french polish. In my opinion, it produces the most beautiful, rich, smooth textured finish available. It's not incredibly durable, and takes forever to apply, but it's well worth the effort, especially for smaller pieces.
The look of french polish is divine. Time consuming and once you know how to its not hard to do. Great for small boxes, decorative turnings and low trafic items of great beauty that deserve the best finish.
I use all these products and each has it's own special place. Good video. I'm sure a lot of guys that are new to woodworking will find this very beneficial.
Best 13minutes I've spent on a woodworking related video! Thanks for making straight to the point content.
I agree the Osmo Polyx used alone can indeed look dull on Walnut, but not if you use Osmo 1101 Thin Oil first as a pre-treat. This 2-coat wipe on 1101 penetrates more deeply than the regular hard wax oil, and significantly enhances the look of the Osmo Polyx 3043 I use as a final coat (or two). This combo is now my go to finish choice.
Osmo is safe on a cutting board, correct?
@@wcstrawberryfields8011 I have been doing cutting boards for decades, custom built end grain from Jatoba, Purpleheart, Cherry, Walnut and so many other non toxic and exotic hardwoods and the only thing I would ever use is Watco Butcher Block oil. PERIOD! Hands down the very best finish, I promise you that. That would be on a bare wood finished butcher block. If you are reconditioning one you have to sand back down to completely bare wood in order to use that product. Otherwise for maintenance purposes and or reconditioning one that has already been treated I use Howard's Butcher Block conditioner. It has beeswax in it and is a very good anti-microbial for that reason. Works well, I buy it by the gallon. Hope that helps. Those are the only two products I ever use on butcher blocks.
Can’t wait to see a durability test on the hard wax oils. One thing I’ve found is that odies will absolutely water spot, contrary to the text right on the label! You should definitely do liquids as one of the tests.
Osmo does as well, i have used Odies and Osmo. Both stain with liquid spilled on them contrary to what is stated on the labels...
@@notasheep199 yea its more or less which one with spot the least haha.
For wooden cabinet doors: spraying precat lacquer is my favorite. It dries extremely fast, it's
highly durable and gives wood a superb finish.
Will this work on existing cabinets to hide rubbed areas?
@badmatt4227 Not sure what you mean by "rubbed areas" but I prep my doors by sanding down to bare wood, spray mohawk ultra penetrating dye stain for color, then spray finish with precat.
@@U2BER2012 Rubbed areas, OK worn areas, its weird almost like someone repeatedly used their lower body to push open the door.
I haven't finished a complete project yet, but I did a bunch of test pieces with Odie's Oil/butter/wax, and I really like it.
It takes longer to cure than other options, but it smells nice, no VOCs, and I don't have to worry about dust/cat-hair getting stuck in the finish, so I can move pieces inside and out of the shop between coats, or until they're cured enough to use. You also don't need to use any gloves or a mask while applying... it's incredibly easy to use & apply.
I also really like the "pigments" that Odie's sells. If you need to add some color to your piece, it's pretty much foolproof. The end-result color doesn't depend on how many coats you apply or how long you let it sit... so it's really hard to mess up (unlike stains).
I've settled on: Two coats of Odie's oil (mixed w/pigments, if applicable), followed by a coat of wax or butter (equivalent results, IMO), with a week between coats. The 2nd coat isn't strictly necessary, but I found it makes the finish (and color, if applicable) seem a bit "richer". The wax coat is also probably not necessary, but it adds a nice sheen to the finish.
Outstanding!!! You did a great job reviewing all of the major wood finishes with great detail. I've used them all myself. Let me add one idea. I am 72 yr old, been wood working over 60 yr, and just finished an end table with lacquer. This is the same finish used with custom autos, so I worked with an auto body shop for a little extra guidance. I ended up wet sanding with 3500 grit sand paper to get that great glossy finish. I have a variety of paper grits, powders and even a buffer for finishes. This is just an idea for you for a future video. You do a great job with good home work. Best wishes on the next vid.
Good video! I always advise people who ask to use the finish that's easiest for them. It's so subjective. I was disappointed you didn't mention my favorite finish: Waterlox Original. But there are so many finishes out there! You did a good job, good production values and fast paced
I recently got into the whole woodcraft hobby and made my first small build. I did a but of research on oios and ran across a page that talked about waterlox. I can say it looks really good after my 4th layer.
Lots of really good info, and really appreciate the time and effort to do all of the sample applications. One thing I think is important to clarify is "Tung Oil" Finish and actual 100% pure Tung Oil (with no additives) are very very very different things. Tung Oil Finish can even be a significantly different product between the various vendors as they all add their own concoction of dryers, distillates, etc and usually contains very little actual Tung Oil . Same applies for pure Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) vs BLO. Great video!!
Since I recently looked it up, that specific Watco Tung oil finish is 20% tung oil by weight. The other ingredients help it to dry faster (mineral spirits), and prevent it from hardening/ a film forming in the can. I've heard that some Tung oil finishes can have as little as 5% Tung oil so be aware that they are not all created equal.
And now I've also looked it up and that Watco danish oil is linseed and soy oil.
Great video and examples. I've tried most of those finishes and still have the 2 hour debate with myself on what I'm going to use on my project when I'm finished building it.
ha dont we all!
I'm so glad to read this comment
I made red oak cabinets for my kitchen, and I used clear shellac and several coats of clear water based poly for the finish. They came out beautiful and held up well for many years. They were inexpensive and easy to apply and clean up.
A professional painter and finisher friend of mine, (a mentor if you will), who's brain I used to pick occasionally, was a product tester for General Finishes. They are based just a short drive from me in East Troy Wi.
Hands down the VERY BEST off the shelf finishes I have ever used and Ive been a finisher for 40 years.
I'd like to know how each finish withstands a hot cup of coffee in a ceramic mug and a damp glass of cold water on a humid day.
Maintenance measures would be a convincing test of a proper finish.
Absolutely! Over many years, I've found oil-base polyurethane to be the only finish to hold up on horizontal pieces for use as you describe. I've have this on my dining table for over 10 years and it shows no sign of deteriorating under daily use. Have to re-think it for light woods, however, as we all know it yellows initially and over time.
This right here! This is what I need to know. I’m building a beautiful dining room table that I want to be durable for daily use with kids. Will Rubio stand up to it? How do you clean a table finished with Rubio? I have found very little mention of the practical daily use cases, only fine furniture type applications..
“Tung oil comes from the nuts of the Tung tree” felt like such a missed opportunity 😂
Good video as always, I’ll continue to paint my stuff and leave the finishes to you pros
holy shit - I feel like an idiot. So many options for a joke or a video clip. Mistakes were surely made
And ask these years I thought that tung oil was like nose grease... Great for rubbing on the gripping edge of your opponent's bowling ball.
@@magicgordo4878 LMAO!!!! Good one!
@@Lincolnstww I thought you were going for a deadpan joke. I still laughed.
Great vid. I loved using Osmo Matt finish for my hardwood butcher block 4metre long kitchen counters. I've used their water protection by osmo first, then osmo hardwax. 1 year later it's still looks same as the day I finish it. Even with busy family usage. Looks so much better than the polyurethane from the 90's. These vids are cool. 👍
That's good to hear. I'm finishing our Butcher block countertops with Rubio Pure. Osmo was my other consideration for a finish. You really can't go wrong with the hard wax oil finishes. So easy to apply and repair.
Hey Dani. Can I pick your brain? I'm just about to instal a large butcher block counter top! It's made of white maple. I've been researching and trying to decide between Odie's, Rubio Mono and now Osmo! I need good water protection as our entire counters around the sink etc will be butcher block. Also we like the very white look (matte) of the white maple...ie. I don't want sheen or shine....All this to say...I'm now thinking of going with Osmo 3051 raw - as it will go on a bit "white" keeping that very white natural look. What do you think? Everyone raves about Rubio mono...would I be missing out by not buying that? Again I'm looking for good protection but what is key is the look...I want to keep that un treated / white look...I'd love your thoughts! Thanks.
I completed a project to strip and retore a pair of late 1970's expensive stereo speakers that have original walnut veneer. I ended up using 4 coats of Danish oil, applied 24 hours between coats. I followed 2 of the coats with XXXX steel wool. Then I let that cure for a few days, then I used a coat of Odie's Oil. The result is a glassy smooth and shiny finish. They look fantastic!
Very informative. I have used most of the products shown. Most of them have a place in my shop depending on the piece. Time permitting I prefer an oil undercoat on most finishes. Happy to have found a new channel to watch.
This is such a brilliant comparison video. Really helpful to see how each product affects four different woods. Only improvement would have been to have had a strip with the four woods untreated next to the treated ones to compare with what it looked like originally.
I tend to lean toward the hard wax finishes, and I have used Rubio, OSMO and Odie's - all of which are great products. I like the ease of application with the Rubio and OSMO, but I really appreciate the flexibility of the Odie's. Odie's products allow you to work your way up past the 240-320 grit sand paper to develop a higher sheen, if that's what you are looking for in a finish; they also have a variety of finish products that you can use in steps to build more and more protection.
think you nedd to look at blacktail studios about rubio for more sheen
@@stephangermishuizen1113 Yes, I watched Cam's videos, and he does a great job. I am still experimenting a bit with finishes. I thought I would give Fiddes a try next.
I used Real Milk Paint Co's "Dark Half" on the butcher block counters we installed - it's food safe. I used shellac on the underside before installation. The Dark Half was great (I did three applications), it gave the counters a nice mid-grade (as opposed to folks leaving it the bright birch) tone, as a contrast to the white walls and the 'Lily Pad' (also RMPC) milk paint on the stripped/primed/painted cabinets. I did throw a little Howard's Cutting Board Oil on it, since oil burns into oil...as we put the house on the market.
I'm a weirdo that loves shellac. In that same house (from 1910), I went and sanded, topped up the stain, and shellacked all of the stained wood trim downstairs (it was all painted up...by prior folks).
Thanks for this side by side. Each project definitely has its own needs. :)
What is your opinion of the best oil for teak wood. Specifically, very nice neglected outdoor hightop table and 4 chair set. I've looked at a plethora of videos and Google articles. Everyone has an opinion and sometimes they are conflicting. I love your channel BTW! Mostly because of its own merits but also I moved away from SC for work and I miss it and my family. I'm a year or so into learning woodworking and I am self taught from mostly UA-cam videos. I enjoy your humor, and your clear and to-the-point explaintions. 😊
@@lauraprice4069 Oh, I think you need to post that as a comment to Lincoln St., not me. :) (while I have refinished the acacia bistro set from Ikea that's been refinished twice...I used Teak Oil after cleaning and sanding it lightly)
The minwax poly is a great protective coating I sprayed it on a classical guitar I stripped. I thinned it slightly ,I didn't want the cedar guitar top to get too dark, but wanted it slightly Amber.
The key here is what color is your desired outcome. The Minwax Polyacrylic is a super finish for protecting a stained look you don't want a topcoat to look yellow over , as its what we call (water white). On a credenza, stripped to a grainy light color , I used a solid color stain look for background color, made a brown transparent glaze brushed and wiped to make it appear as a grain filler of color ( a faux natural wood look) If you dont want to use an amber poly oil base, you use the Minwax Polyacrylic to keep the clearcoat to be void of any amber yellow to ruin your base wood colors.
The Polyacrylic is really perfect brushing as you apply very thin coats. The water base acrylic dries down revealing no brush marks, it gives a flawless smooth satin or lower gloss effect
post a video
Excellent job man! I need to seal 1200sf of T&G ceiling cypress. Keep going back and forth with people....some saying Lacquer some saying poly....you explained it clearly. For my application and fast trying....Lacquer.
That throwaway joke about accidentally grabbing 2x4 instead of walnut gave me an unexpected guffaw that made me glad I wasn't sipping my coffee.
This is THE type of comparison I wish everyone would adopt. Top notch video right here; thank you for taking the time to do this! The editing is amazing lol!
Thank you! glad you like it
Cannot believe you do not talk about finishes like walnut oil. I use walnut oil almost exclusively with my turned wood product and my charcuterie boards. It drys and hardens well. It is reasonably inexpensive and it is an all natural product. Application is easy with a paper towel and can be re-applied at any time. It gives a nice natural finish. If you want more shine you can buff with any number of wax finishes. It’s food safe.
Wonderful breakdown! I just finished a poplar furniture piece and was looking for something that wouldn't darken the wood, but would add some protection, and this video cleared it up for me! Going to do some test patches for General Finishes Hi Performance Satin, Danish oil, and Osmo's Poly-x.
I tried applying 2 coats of Danish oil and then some coats of the water based Poly and achieved great results and colour!
Very nice concise yet detailed comparison of these finishes. I find picking the right finish for a product the most time consuming and overwhelming yet it's the most enjoyable part of the process for me. It's where you get to see if all of your hard work up to that point is going to pay off, or if you're going to have to toss the project on the burn pile and start over. As a side note, I'd love to see you compare Maker Brand Simple Finish to the other hard wax oil finishes. I'm not convinced it's as good as Rubio or Osmo.
I am new to the hardwax oil finishes, I've used Odies and Monocoat. I absolutely love the durability and ease of application of monocoat and the look and smell of the Odies
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath Shellac is a really bad finish IMO, it can't handle humidity, it's soft, and will get a water ring if you put a drink anywhere near it. I will use it as a barrier between incompatible finishes as it is compatible with everything.
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath I honestly don't care about your experience or your antiques. I build guitars and new furniture. Shellac is a sub quality finish, and all my criticisms of it still stand. I don't care if it's easy to repair, it still needs constant repair. Lacquer is also an out dated low quality finish. Your novel doesn't change that fact
Not gonna lie, my favorite part was telling that company, “Whatever, dude,” and including them, AND THEIR STATEMENTS, anyway.
Thank you! We have been on a journey to figure out the perfect finish for 2 years now for our modular solid wood tables and we did actually land on the wax oils just like you. And we went with the odie's oil! WE LOVE the stuff. I wonder why they didn't want to be included in the video. Interesting..
Wow, thank you! So refreshing to actually get helpful information vs. a commercial, and your jokes were an unexpected gift.
Great video! Was there ever an update with the durability test for the waxes? I'm trying to decide what to use as a top coat for a desk and your results make me want to second guess the poly.
I’m so angry right now! You literally boiled down every important detail that I’ve learned about all of these finishes into a 13 min video! The problem is it took me probably 200 hours of research over the last 6 years to sift through all the other useless info about these products. Where was this video 6 years ago! 😂
The polys are an lying..They dry to fast. You are doing an area and try toale a nice brush stroke or is already drying so you can't even it out. 😡. Gel works great and easy as glaze. Wipe on, wipe off. I went to poly or clear coat to protect paint.
Nice work here.
I do hate Odie's with a passion. An absolute chatoyance killer. I was relieved when mine hardened in the jar - gave me an excuse to discard such an expensive product.
I love Osmo satin, apply it with steel wool over a wash coat of shellac.
My use of Watco danish oil goes back to the 70's. It used to be a good finish I'm convinced they have increased the solvent ratio as a means of cost cutting. To use up the quart cans I have left I need warm weather so I can set it out in shallow dishes to evaporate off that excess solvent before application. There's just no sense in soaking a project with mineral spirits as is done with Watco. For those who haven't thought it through, the solvent sinks in deeply, not the solids. They dry after a day or so and seal in all that solvent, which then takes a week or so to evap back out through the surface. I won't be buying the modern Watco again.
Okay, this video is great. I have searched for a ton of videos and try to understand the differences between all the finished, this is just the clearest among all. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for a very good comparison. I really like the oils. I agree that the ‘polycrylic’ is worst finish of the varnishes. Of the oils I have been experimenting with a hand made mix of the ‘tung oil’ and varnish. (Use two to three Tablespoons vanish to one cup tung oil.See the workshop companion video comparison.) This seems to leave a nice satin/eggshell finish and requires
2-3 coats. Thanks again.
For longevity and durability, which finishing products would you recommend for exterior wood (natural look) such as wooden decks and garden furniture? Would need to be UV resistant, water resistant and withstand fluctuations in temperature (4 degrees Celsius to 32 degrees celsius) and humidity and last for at least 5 years before needing to be re-done. Also, could you do a review on polyester finishes and how they compare to polyurethane.
Anything in a "natural" does not have UV protection, it is necessary to have some pigment in it, a clear exterior stain will not last as long, no matter what the manufacturer says. In my personal experience of over 4 decades now the best product I have found, so far, for exterior use is TWP stain. It has lasted the longest of all others that fade away. The redwood fence I did at my home is now 5 years old and still looks the same as it did when first applied. Starting to show a few signs of needing a re-coat, but the color is 100% intact still. It is also a class A fire rated fence (we live in high fire danger area, or should we call it the lack of common sense area), and the wood sealer fire retardant is only as good as long as the stain is good for, I did the testing on these products and was the guinea pig. I did the fire testing and sent it off to a lab for age testing on how long it would last and hold it's fire retardant capabilities. My initial assessments are that every 7-10 years I will have to redo, but, as I watch my fence age, I can tell the product is still locked in under the topcoat of TWP and I think that if I refinish again before it loses that sealer penetration I won't have to apply the fire retardant sealer again. I have an ongoing aging product sample to test, and I will fire test it before I re-coat. I have used so many different exterior wood stain products, to impress me is not easy, TWP has impressed me. Unlike so many of the other products that are so hard to deal with, it's a product that you don't have to strip down to refinish. You just pressure wash with cleaner, neutralize the PH, let dry and refinish. I wish I had found this stuff 30 years ago! I have only been using it for about 10 years now. If you are dealing with hardwood decks they have one made for that as well, unfortunately, some of their products are hard to get in California. That is one of them, that's okay, I travel to relatives that don't live here and bring back what I need. Don't tell me what I can and cannot do!! This is the USA, so sick of this moron state of confusion it is not even funny. Everything good they outlaw in this state to protect stupid people from doing stupid stuff. It's ridiculous. My advice is to use TWP stain, pick a tint, cedartone is pretty neutral, that way you get the UV protection. I have redwood fence boards in the clear formula on a gate I built, it has been faded and needs to be re-done in about 4 years. The fence with tint on it, still good to go. Best advice I can give you. Cheers, Woodmeister.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Unfortunately, TWP not available in South Africa. If I applied a tint to sanded wood and then numerous coats of polyurethane, do You think I would get a long lasting durable uv resistant finish. Its just for garden furniture and wooden doors and window frames that get a lot of exposure to sun and rain. @@kelvinreed853
This was crazy informative. I knew finishing products were different but I guess I never really gave it a lot of thought. Danish oil has always been my go to for nicer projects just because I like the "natural" look and feel but I'm really liking all of the hard-wax finishes.
Great video!
Just don't use it on an open grain wood, like Hickory!!!!
I did and it took weeks to dry! It was weeping so bad I had to wipe it off daily for what seemed like an eternity!
Thanks!
@@charlieodom9107 What about poplar shelves? I have some with super nice grain - is Danish oil good for that?
@@daniellec2172 I guess you could, but I can't stand the look of Poplar. It is great for painting, but nothing else, in my opinion.
Try a test piece to see what you think first. At the end of the day, if you like it, then no one else's opinion matters.
@@charlieodom9107 I normally don't like the look either, but this big piece I have is super nice, looks like a pale maple. My concern is that poplar is thought to not take oils well, correct? Also, poplar as it oxidizes turns into a nice amber shade with no green (I'm into lighter woods over darks).
Excellent video! Great job! Odie's really said that? 😂
Thanks Matt. They sure did. It was quite the interaction.
@@Lincolnstww Wow. That is crazy! I love how you handled it lol
@@Lincolnstww The South Park clip "Whatever, I do what I want" @ 10:00 made me spit coffee all over my work laptop. Thank God I am the IT guy.
@@Lincolnstww any insights as to why? I'm dying to know! I freaking love Odie's.
@@johnhendy1281 apparently it’s their policy to not be presented beside products that’s mislead the public. Referring to osmo and Rubio
Brilliant video! After watching roughly 30 videos on finishes I came upon yours and wish I'd seen it first. Thanks for your invaluable insights. 😀
I'm personally in love with lacquer right now it's so nice because it dries quickly and it makes a beautiful coat with no dripping.
Note... I am using it to finish guitars. I have used a lot of polyurethane on furniture and I like it too. But lacquer in spray form is phenomenal