An excellent video! I use a 5 stage HVLP with Minnwax Helmsman Spar urethane (an oil finish). I thin it 45% with mineral spirits. It works great on all surfaces in including exterior furniture that is under cover. No runs, no drips, no orange peel... and if I want a glossier finish I wet sand it with Camilla oil and 400 up 1200 grit wet dry paper. If I want more gloss I use 1400 to 6000 grit wet dry paper using the various meguirer liquids, and polishes and then if I want a slightly matte finish I will use a rag lightly dampened with either mineral spirits or Camilla oil. It comes out perfect every time! What finish I don’t use I put in a separate container fill the open space to the top with Bloxygen, seal it tightly and label it with contents and date. Makes for a very durable finish!
Thanks for the information in this video. It pulls together quiet a bit of info and addresses numerous concerns I have had and which have kept me away from spray finishes. Again, thanks.
if you are using a clear, you can do a sanding sealer first and then a poly. that helps with sanding off grain raise. if you use a water based primer, always sand after primer before finish coat.
Jim, Despite your obvious preference for turbine based systems, you've done a good job of simplifying spray finishing for your readers. I do, however suggest your audience clean their guns right after finishing for the day. There will always be some overspray on the outside of the aircap which may affect its performance. I use mostly water-based finishes, and personally recommend a Level 1 cleaning (that is, spraying clear water through the cup until only clear water comes out, then followed by a simple wiping of the aircap with a water-dampened cloth) after any pause in the job - such as heading out for lunch... which more often than not will lead to a prolonged delay in getting back to the job. A Level 1 cleaning only takes a few minutes to accomplish, and even less if you have a second cup for your gun that you keep for cleaning purposes. At the end of the day, a more thorough cleaning, which is called a Level 2 cleaning is called for. Again, at the end of that day and not 24 hours thereafter. And a bit part of that is because the finish inside the cup begins to harden at the "water line", leaving the potential for pieces of semi-hardened finish to be held in suspension in the cup when you pick it up again. That'll clog a tip faster than anything, and therefore is something to be avoided at all costs. That's why a Level 2 cleaning at the end of the day is necessary. Finally, if you are spraying solvent-based finishes and want to spray water-based finishes, a more comprehensive cleaning which is called a Level 3 cleaning will be needed. Hope to see you at Weekend with Wood so we may discuss this further!
I have a spray gun with a gravity feed, should I get one with the container below the gun? I ask since if I need to spray a horizontal surface it will spill out the top, right? What I am trying to do is spray the inside of some cabinets and I am not sure exactly how to do it. Thanks for any advice.
If you is interested in spray painting the greatest results that I have had was with the Magic Painter Method (just google it) definately the most incredible course i've followed.
Please help me! I feel like I’m doing everything right when it comes to spraying my oil based poly but it keeps hazing and having these sort of round hazing dull spots. I have 2 water separators, I have an air assisted hvlp set up with a compressor. I don’t know why it keeps doing this. Id love help setting up my gun and some info on this stuff. Is there an email or anyway I can ask some questions
Sometimes high humidity can cause the haziness/cloudiness. This happens at the nozzle as the finish is sprayed. Separators will have no effect on this problem. Not sure, but it is a possiblity.
Ahh my friend you are in luck. I will tell you exactly how to fix this issue. It could be only a handful of things. Usually the culprit is your flash off point. You idealy want to extend this and allow "dwell time" for the newly laid down wet coat. Try replacing your thinner cut with a slow reducer instead. If you see better results but still some hazing then you've identified the problem and you now need to also add some blush retarder into the cut. If that's entirely not the issue next thing I would do is change my undercoats. Process of elimination. Start off with this. If doesn't help let me know I'll provide my email and we can figure it out I'm certain. ✌🏻
Thanks very much for the great info. I like the turbines as well but I find them prohibitively expensive for casual users. What's your opinion on the spray gun systems such as the HomeRight C800971?
I stripped a teak bench and sand it. I put a stain and after it dried I polyurethane, clear gloss. After it dried it showed many faults. Some different shade, much lighter details. Looks very ugly now. What should I do next?
Teak is an oily wood. I’ve never heard of it being stained, only clear coated/varnished. I’d sand it back to bare wood and varnish it with epifanes or something of equal quality
You're attempt to address the grain raising issue is humorous 😂. If one has the time to 1st sand with 320 then piss coat. Re-sand with 400. Then prime again. Re-sand then topcoat? Nah dawg! You do it right at that point - Nice wet coat of primer, sand 220. Another heavy wet coat, you know fill in all that grain/pours if mdf. Re-sand with 320 and Bob's your uncle and you're rdy for topcoat my guy. Mirror finish everytime 😘👌🏻 Otherwise great informative video for beginners. Edit: been reading the comments. Don't ever use water-based anything guys. I know this bloke and that guys mom swears by X product but trust me, stay away from any water-based formulas especially on mfd!! If you absolutely have to, don't let it be your 1st coat. The one that will be soaking into the raw fibers. It's okay for topcoat.
Its not the gun so much as the settings and the technique. I cant figure out how fine the droplets should be on your test panel and how much paint is 1 coat.
Goggles will fog and tack up with what you're spraying. Lose the eyewear. Respirator always. Clean environment. Thin coats. Any sprayer, including cup sprayer with air regulator at base with airline. Shoot samples (cardboard, etc) first, keep gun moving 4" - 5" above surface with easy moving level passes and call it done. You can adjust angle spraying with either the cap of gun or just move your arm lol. Enjoy and get her done!
Perhaps you're trying too hard to simplify things, but you've confused the methods of air delivery (compressor or turbine) with the gun type. Compressor guns, depending on how they're made, may be an HVLP (high volume low pressure), RP (reduced pressure), LVLP (low volume low pressure) or even an HP (high pressure), but turbine guns can only be HVLP because of the pressure limitations of turbines. Further, your statements regarding compressors running out of air is only applicable to compressors such as the one you're depicting in this video. Serious finishers who rely on compressors ensure their compressors are sized for the task at hand. But that of course equates to a much more significant financial investment, which is why turbine systems are better suited to those with limited budgets or who are doing hobby-level volumes (not quality) of finishing. Hope this helps clarify things for your audience.
Thats funny if you equate high volume of production with high quality. I spray at home and you could not afford to pay for the type of finishes i do. ua-cam.com/video/5QAjkiUy_8s/v-deo.html
Hobby finishes are low quality? In the last 35 years of spraying i can guarantee there is no high production paint finish better than what i can produce.
@@thewaltbrownellchannel9318 I made a factual comment regarding your explanation of air delivery systems, and for some reason you've misconstrued what I stated.
@@thewaltbrownellchannel9318 I don't get your point, but I seem to have rattled your chain. If you'd prefer we carry this conversation on in private, then I'm more than willing to do so. PM me at your liesure.
17 minutes of your video, equals 17 minutes of pure valuable information.
Thanks again!
This is one of the best videos out there on spraying finishes. Thanks Jim.
I loved how knowledgeable this guy is!
An excellent video! I use a 5 stage HVLP with Minnwax Helmsman Spar urethane (an oil finish). I thin it 45% with mineral spirits. It works great on all surfaces in including exterior furniture that is under cover. No runs, no drips, no orange peel... and if I want a glossier finish I wet sand it with Camilla oil and 400 up 1200 grit wet dry paper. If I want more gloss I use 1400 to 6000 grit wet dry paper using the various meguirer liquids, and polishes and then if I want a slightly matte finish I will use a rag lightly dampened with either mineral spirits or Camilla oil. It comes out perfect every time! What finish I don’t use I put in a separate container fill the open space to the top with Bloxygen, seal it tightly and label it with contents and date.
Makes for a very durable finish!
I want to agree with other comments this is the best video on spraying. It covers everything thanks
Thank you for a no nonsense, informative, and I should add, understandable presentation.
Great Video... Jim is the uncle every kid wished for as a kid. great teacher. Would have been great to through in a hand held sprayer as a option.
Thanks for the information in this video. It pulls together quiet a bit of info and addresses numerous concerns I have had and which have kept me away from spray finishes. Again, thanks.
thank you so much for your help with spraying .wishing you and your family everything that is good in the world .john
I look forward to your videos, I learn something every time I watch them. Thank you for this marvelous educational experience.
Jim Heavey is the friggin’ best!
if you are using a clear, you can do a sanding sealer first and then a poly. that helps with sanding off grain raise. if you use a water based primer, always sand after primer before finish coat.
Jim,
Despite your obvious preference for turbine based systems, you've done a good job of simplifying spray finishing for your readers.
I do, however suggest your audience clean their guns right after finishing for the day. There will always be some overspray on the outside of the aircap which may affect its performance. I use mostly water-based finishes, and personally recommend a Level 1 cleaning (that is, spraying clear water through the cup until only clear water comes out, then followed by a simple wiping of the aircap with a water-dampened cloth) after any pause in the job - such as heading out for lunch... which more often than not will lead to a prolonged delay in getting back to the job. A Level 1 cleaning only takes a few minutes to accomplish, and even less if you have a second cup for your gun that you keep for cleaning purposes. At the end of the day, a more thorough cleaning, which is called a Level 2 cleaning is called for. Again, at the end of that day and not 24 hours thereafter. And a bit part of that is because the finish inside the cup begins to harden at the "water line", leaving the potential for pieces of semi-hardened finish to be held in suspension in the cup when you pick it up again. That'll clog a tip faster than anything, and therefore is something to be avoided at all costs. That's why a Level 2 cleaning at the end of the day is necessary. Finally, if you are spraying solvent-based finishes and want to spray water-based finishes, a more comprehensive cleaning which is called a Level 3 cleaning will be needed.
Hope to see you at Weekend with Wood so we may discuss this further!
Very well explained. Excellent commentary and commentator.
Very interesting stuff an i have used the spray can one, but just with polyurethane. Thanks for the knowledge Sir
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. This was incredible :)
Thank you for sharing this great video
Excellent presentation! May questions were answered.
Viscosity cups come in size 1 - 5, where the size of the orifice runs small to large for different paints. What size cup did you use?
Fantastic video. Very informative. Thank you!
I have a spray gun with a gravity feed, should I get one with the container below the gun? I ask since if I need to spray a horizontal surface it will spill out the top, right? What I am trying to do is spray the inside of some cabinets and I am not sure exactly how to do it. Thanks for any advice.
magazine thank you! Looks like I should get another sprayer.
Wow! Such a very good information thank you! For share your experience. Very nice video !
Awesome video !
Awesome video!Thank you for your wisdom!
Excellent explanation
Excellent video!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Very informative video. I'm going to buy a 4 stage turbine sprayer from Fuji.
Great information! Thanks
Jim, thank you and I would like to know what you think about the LVLP spray guns and the process for painting wood.
Great job explaining everything thank you
Thanks for the information Jim, a good refresher for me and a few “0 yea remember to do that”.
If you is interested in spray painting the greatest results that I have had was with the Magic Painter Method (just google it) definately the most incredible course i've followed.
Great instructional video. Thanks,
Please help me! I feel like I’m doing everything right when it comes to spraying my oil based poly but it keeps hazing and having these sort of round hazing dull spots. I have 2 water separators, I have an air assisted hvlp set up with a compressor. I don’t know why it keeps doing this. Id love help setting up my gun and some info on this stuff. Is there an email or anyway I can ask some questions
Try some of these articles: www.woodmagazine.com/search?q=spray+finish
Sometimes high humidity can cause the haziness/cloudiness. This happens at the nozzle as the finish is sprayed. Separators will have no effect on this problem. Not sure, but it is a possiblity.
Ahh my friend you are in luck. I will tell you exactly how to fix this issue. It could be only a handful of things. Usually the culprit is your flash off point. You idealy want to extend this and allow "dwell time" for the newly laid down wet coat. Try replacing your thinner cut with a slow reducer instead. If you see better results but still some hazing then you've identified the problem and you now need to also add some blush retarder into the cut.
If that's entirely not the issue next thing I would do is change my undercoats.
Process of elimination. Start off with this. If doesn't help let me know I'll provide my email and we can figure it out I'm certain. ✌🏻
Excellent!!!
Thanks very much for the great info. I like the turbines as well but I find them prohibitively expensive for casual users. What's your opinion on the spray gun systems such as the HomeRight C800971?
I stripped a teak bench and sand it. I put a stain and after it dried I polyurethane, clear gloss. After it dried it showed many faults. Some different shade, much lighter details. Looks very ugly now. What should I do next?
Teak is an oily wood. I’ve never heard of it being stained, only clear coated/varnished. I’d sand it back to bare wood and varnish it with epifanes or something of equal quality
You're attempt to address the grain raising issue is humorous 😂. If one has the time to 1st sand with 320 then piss coat. Re-sand with 400. Then prime again. Re-sand then topcoat? Nah dawg! You do it right at that point - Nice wet coat of primer, sand 220. Another heavy wet coat, you know fill in all that grain/pours if mdf. Re-sand with 320 and Bob's your uncle and you're rdy for topcoat my guy. Mirror finish everytime 😘👌🏻
Otherwise great informative video for beginners.
Edit: been reading the comments. Don't ever use water-based anything guys. I know this bloke and that guys mom swears by X product but trust me, stay away from any water-based formulas especially on mfd!! If you absolutely have to, don't let it be your 1st coat. The one that will be soaking into the raw fibers. It's okay for topcoat.
Water-based is great. It just requires a different spray technique. Also the water based coatings from Italy are fantastic and even cure faster.
How do you fix bubbles on clear coats when they keep coming?
Nice work
spot on
Would you say that a top feed spraygun is better than a bottom feed spraygun?
You are incredible.
I was hoping that you would go over the spray gun selection criteria. Very informative video otherwise.
Good quality hvlp, air assist or conventional are your most common spray units for finish pros
brilliant thank you
The problem I have with this video is that it gives me the confidence to try my hand at this but I know I'll fuck things up.
I dilute the paint regardless of what the spray company claims to reduce the orange peel or textured surface.
Its not the gun so much as the settings and the technique. I cant figure out how fine the droplets should be on your test panel and how much paint is 1 coat.
Viscozity? Varnish for wood
Viscosity
how many ounces of mineral spirits would be good for thinning a quart of polyurethane
siphon or gravity feed?
Goggles will fog and tack up with what you're spraying. Lose the eyewear. Respirator always. Clean environment. Thin coats. Any sprayer, including cup sprayer with air regulator at base with airline. Shoot samples (cardboard, etc) first, keep gun moving 4" - 5" above surface with easy moving level passes and call it done. You can adjust angle spraying with either the cap of gun or just move your arm lol. Enjoy and get her done!
I think this guy is my dad
Perhaps you're trying too hard to simplify things, but you've confused the methods of air delivery (compressor or turbine) with the gun type. Compressor guns, depending on how they're made, may be an HVLP (high volume low pressure), RP (reduced pressure), LVLP (low volume low pressure) or even an HP (high pressure), but turbine guns can only be HVLP because of the pressure limitations of turbines.
Further, your statements regarding compressors running out of air is only applicable to compressors such as the one you're depicting in this video. Serious finishers who rely on compressors ensure their compressors are sized for the task at hand. But that of course equates to a much more significant financial investment, which is why turbine systems are better suited to those with limited budgets or who are doing hobby-level volumes (not quality) of finishing.
Hope this helps clarify things for your audience.
Thats funny if you equate high volume of production with high quality. I spray at home and you could not afford to pay for the type of finishes i do.
ua-cam.com/video/5QAjkiUy_8s/v-deo.html
Hobby finishes are low quality? In the last 35 years of spraying i can guarantee there is no high production paint finish better than what i can produce.
LETS SEE... 250 HOURS ON A PAINT JOB AT HOME OR 10 SECOND SPRAY JOB AT WORK...GUESS WHICH ONE IS HIGH QUALITY?
@@thewaltbrownellchannel9318 I made a factual comment regarding your explanation of air delivery systems, and for some reason you've misconstrued what I stated.
@@thewaltbrownellchannel9318 I don't get your point, but I seem to have rattled your chain. If you'd prefer we carry this conversation on in private, then I'm more than willing to do so. PM me at your liesure.
"Get a filter that removes the air out" I think he meant to say water lol
Where I come from turbans don't spray paint!!!!
1:11 what the hell did he just say? Was that Spanish?
Good info
Great Presentation. Thanks