Spraying Lacquer With HVLP - (GREAT FINISH)
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- Опубліковано 30 лис 2020
- Spraying Lacquer With HVLP. In this video Rob Cosman walks you through how he finishes woodworking projects by spraying lacquer with HVLP gun. An HVLP is a perfect method for the professional or hobby woodworker to spray a lacquer finish. Spraying lacquer with HVLP is an easy and quick finsh for all your woodworking projects
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Rob - For your safety please consider sealed (Explosion proof) electric lights, outlets and switches in and around your spray booth. Also look into setting up your spray both to have a "Positive pressure ventilation system" rather than a suction system. If you get blowed-up we don't get any more videos. Thanks for the call today, it was a pleasure speaking with you. -W
Rob said use a metal can to dip lacquer from the larger can because lacquer will eat the plastic.
Here's a warning / tip. If you wear contact lenses (and maybe plastic lens glasses) be sure you have good ventilation.
I sprayed lacquer without having fans to clear the fumes out of the garage I was spraying in. A few days later my contacts were bothering me so I went to my optometrist. He said, "Wow, I've never seen lenses like these." Think of grazing / cracking on old china. That's what my contact lenses looked like under a magnifier.
As always, great video! I never fail to lean something from one of your videos. You’ve convince me to pull the trigger on an HVLP system.
Everytime i hear the sound of that notification bell, i know that video is worth to watch and learn something new from Rob💯👍 thanks as always....
As usual another great lesson. Thanks Rob God bless you.
Great as always. Thanks Rob! Love from Sydney!
It's everytime a great pleasure to watch you and to listen to you in your videos. I, as a pure amateur, learnt the most skills and tipps for woodworking from you, Sir Cosman. Again thanks from Germany.
CC
LOVE the scraper idea rather than always sanding. It just saved me LOADS of work spraying my kitchen! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your experience
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍, I use to have the same HVLP setup your using and the machine itself was destroyed in the Hurricane Harvey flood we had here a couple of years back and I miss that machine. great tips on spaying and I like the idea of the card scraper in lieu of sandpaper.
Thank you for your time !!
Thanks Rob! Good to see you and appreciate the tips.
Happy to help Tom, the best to you!
I've seen videos of people using crumpled up paper or paper bags to knock down the nibs, but I think I like the card scraper more. Thanks for yet another awesome video!
Many ancestral French Canadians and New Englanders are craftsman at heart. We love our hobbies
As per usual, an episode replete with the distillation of 40 years of learning coupled with a drive to achieve excellence - and all that given with the simple intent of improving others. May Santa's gift to you be the manufacture of 100 hand saws.
Thank you for yrs teaching 👍🏼👍🏼
Great Video Rob
I'm doing maple cabinet fronts with my HPLV system. Have chosen a waterborne lacquer 20 sheen. I like the scraper idea. I will try that.Subscribed..Thanks
The brand I use produce a bewildering number of lacquers. As you demonstrate it is by far the best Idea to find the one that suits your needs and stick to it. Familiarity with the product's properties will pay dividends. Personally I have two. A pre-cat for general use, they are very user friendly and economical. For some applications A/C lacquers are definitely superior, but the limited pot life inevitably leads to waste for the occasional user. Great vid kid, thanks for posting.
Always have a question when I'm in my shop then a few weeks later Robs always out with a video answering my question 👍
its the secret micro chip we implanted in your brain!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'll take 100 more
very helpful, may thanks
All great tips. I learned to spray Lacquer on cars in a High School Trade School. Graduated 50 years ago. Two additional tips. Always control the excess hose with your off hand. You were doing it but didn’t mention it. Because if you don’t you’ll inevitably drag it through some fresh finish.
And practice moving your BODY more than your arm. It’s easier than training your wrist to keep that tip perpendicular to the workpiece. Cheers.
Thanks Rob great info just what I needed
just for you!!!!
Once again sir, you have explained a process in a normal way so people understand what you are explaining.. you’re a great woodworker and even a better teacher. Thanks for making it easy for a jarhead.
Well for a jarhead I must mention that unlike crayons, don’t eat the lacquer! :)
Thanks for sharing that, well said!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's interesting to see how craftsmen have had to learn other techniques to make up for the lack other people who specialize in certain types of work. Thank you for sharing the video.
Great point!
Good tutorial
Love the apron
Hi like your work nice jewelry box
Hey, Rob, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this topic. Here's a few ideas to consider: 1. For your first coat, spray a sanding-sealer rather than the lacquer. Not only is it cheaper than lacquer, but it'll help seal the wood and also make any sanding (or scraping) that much easier. 2. To reduce overspray when spraying the interior spaces, turn down the air pressure (most turbine-based systems have either a ball-style valve at the end of the airhose, or their turbine will have a motor speed rheostat. 3. Be willing to change the orientation of the fan spray pattern (by rotating your aircap), depending on the area you're spraying. In your example where you set the cabinet on its ends to spray the sides on the interior, because there was so little room to move your gun from side to side, going to a horizontal fan orientation would have made things a lot easier.
Hope these help! Again, thanks for sharing.
I spray every single day, 1. I rarely change the orientation of the spray from vertical to horizontal, in most instances its simply not worth it, in others it can make it a bit easier, but its rare. As for what rob was spraying I wouldnt have changed my spray orientation and would have kept it same as him. To each their own, call it a tip? I call it a personal preference. It is super easy to spray side to side in the example u gave. Its not only my pref, but most all the spraying videos i watch from furniture to cars and from other professionals. I am confident in my ability to spray and with the speed at which i spray. I spray faster than most because I have very little pauses as it is all fluid and natural. 2 The sanding sealer issue some prefer it, I personally dont bother with it, the lacquer seals it the same, sanding sealer is a bit easier to sand yes, but lacquer isnt hard to sand to begin with. It also increases your setup and cleanup time, for switching, and extra cost simply for having another product to spray, You say sanding sealer is cheaper? It depends on the lacquer u are using, I use several different ones, I like gemini as one and it is cheap, get it like 40 a gal think its a little less upper 30's but just say 40, and sanding sealer is basically same price, so aside from a little easier to sand i do not see the benefit. I use clear lacquer and tinted lacquer, as i can get it in any color someone wants it in. I mostly use conversion varnish now but it isnt the topic of the video. My biggest issue with what was said was adjusting the air in the middle of spraying. I would never ever adjust air pressure in the middle of spraying unless i needed to. But I dial my gun in before any product touches the piece i am spraying and it will stay at that setting till i am finished with the piece unless a issue comes up. So you are recommending changing air pressure in the middle of spraying a piece of furniture or cabinet to cut down on over spray? My air pressure is adjusted to achieve proper atomization for the best finish i can achieve, no more no less. If you have your gun dialed in leave it alone till piece is finished. You dont have much time to begin with using lacquer before it starts drying.
Hey, @@reality150tv , thanks for your comments, as we all have our unique approach based on experience. I was a production-level finisher for years... but have long since retired from the craft. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the point of changing orientation of the aircap. I've been doing it for so long now that it's become second-nature to me and the time it takes is so little that I consider it the cost of getting the results I want. The same goes for changing the air pressure when spraying confined cabinet interiors (small ones with the backs on them, that is), which was the way I was taught "way back...". Of course like any experienced finisher, I dial my gun in at the beginning of each job to ensure optimum atomization, and change it only when necessary. Confined interiors, which isn't the case if the back is off - which is the vast majority of the time for the work I do - come out that much better in my opinion. To each his own.
From my experience with lacquer spraying, it's best done outdoor with a simple set up plastic wall and canvas ground. Even with the charcoal filters it still quite toxic, very flammable, and explosive which is why outside is the safest place to spray.
GREAT tip using a scraper between coats. Thanks.
You can also sand with 400 grit dry paper inbetween coats with excellent results.
You bet!
HVLP. I’m proud of you.
Nice video👍
Hi Rob
Please please - make sure that fan is explosion proof, I enjoy your videos without any need for fire effects 👍
Thanks for this one, Rob~! I've been wanting for years to break away from the rattle can and go HVLP. I acquired a large compressor from my Dad (bigger than my pancake unit), but a friend is suggesting that I get a turbine instead since there's better moisture control. The spraying technique has always seemed intimidating, but you make it look so easy~!
Laquer spaying is not too difficult, fortunately wood soaks the stuff up. If you want to spray on a non absorbent surface with a 2 components metallic pigments with an effect that it changes clolor with the viewing angle it is a different story, because you have to deal with the problem to spray everywhere the same thickness of coating. That can really drive you nuts. Finishing my woodwork was never a problem for me, just get all the loose stuff away I really like to soak it off with a vaccum cleaner. I prefer different finishing, I mixed up my own oil/wax mixture which I mainly use. For a desk top I always like to use spar varnish which I roll on the wood with very nice results. Here comes sanding handy, because the scratches are good for the next coat to get a strionger connection.
Just do some testing on some scrapwood and you'll get fine results. I really don't like the vapor of sprayguns but this is just a personal preference - the results of using a spraygun are always good, if you don't apply too much in one go and get gravity work agains you.
Good luck!
Very good Rob ! I do this for a living. Started in my early 20's and been doing it for over 35 years. Also do a lot of white lacquer these days for built-ins, doors and crown molding etc. in high end custom homes. Lacquer is always best in my book.
great minds think alike
We have a small commercial shop and I was pretty much forced to switch to mostly water borne products due to Fire, OSHA and environmental regulations. Certainly a learning curve but worth the switch.
That cherry stand up desk is so ridiculously beautiful.
I thinkits my best work ever
Hi Rob, I like a lot of things you did in this video. You did a walk through on his you were going to spray this project item. You explained a reason why you did everything the way you did, and you used a turntable. I was beginning to think I was the only one with a turntable. My suggestion is for you to get 4 painter's pyramids to put on top of your turntable once you flip the furniture back to spray the top, so it doesn't stick. And I like your neat end result.
I can relate to that mate, I've seen so many of these how to spray vids where they walk around the work piece, it drives me crazy. My suggestion for it not sticking when you turn it over it just to wait for it to dry.
Very instructive thanks. How does fine steel wool work with scraper and on curved surfaces
Hey mate great video 👍
You may want to eliminate ignition sources from your booth. Especially if your using something with a lot of thinners😁👍👍
Thank you Rob for your instructive videos! I just have a question regarding the laqcuer type - is it of cellulose nitrate base? If so, what do you say about downsides such as yellowing, light decolouring and cracking and drying over time? What alternative would you propose?
love the card scraper idea, I'm going to try that.
Absolutely no need, its just not necessary, simply sand with 320 on a palm sander. Sanding with 220 on a palm sander before you start spraying will also be worth a coat of base.
Sanding a finish on a flat surface is as lame as sanding the wood. Scraping, like planing, is the best way to treat the finish on a flat surface.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I am a professional sprayer / French polisher mate. I have never used a scrapper to flat a surface between coats. Are you really saying it is "Lame" to sand the wood before coating? I will pit my techniques against yours any day, bring it on.
@@utube1818 show me your finish and I’ll show you mine….oh wait, I already did
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yep you sure did, and it's not bad....for an amateur. Want to see my work go to Eton Collage Windsor, Kelvin Klein New York store or Beaufort Hotel Knightsbridge. And not a scrapper in sight.😂
Here in Seattle, since my shop is in a commercial building so to spray lacquer I'd have to have an explo$ion proof exhau$t fan, $witche$, etc., so take my bits to a commercial shop for lacquer finishing.
thanks for this. exactly what i was looking for..... what if you used a ladle in left in the bucket?
What I like about these videos is that Rob is always developing new methods. He doesn't blindly follow tradition and is always looking for a better way. This video is a case in point. I have a Jewelry box that I was going to rub out once the lacquer fully cures but I am going to try this scraper idea. If I make a mess I retract everything I said lol.
Great job Rob. If I could recommend a full face respirator too, I know our lungs need protection, but so do our eyes.
Love your work friend, God bless!
You are O.C.D. ONE COOL DUDE
Thanks
Hi where do you get the scraper? I found this to be very helpful. Thank you.
Great info. Do u always use precatalyzed kacquer? Is the watco variety just add lacquer thinner any good and durability? Thx Rob
hi rob been watching your videos for some time now but only came across this one recently. i run a cnc wood working shop and id like to share a tip on MDF edges, if you already havent tried. i sand all edges up to 800 or higher grit. this in essence burnishes/polishes the edges so that it seals itself and will help not using more material and a smother finish... another tip i do but not as often is i may use a Vinyl sealer from time to time, the down side of this sealer though is its terrible smell and could have some long term health issues if it becomes your go to... anyway love your videos and you're a wealth of knowledge to us all !!
Thanks Danny.
Nice. When you use the card scraper between coats, do you use it on the "end grain" too?
Also, have you considered hanging a bungee cord on your ceiling and passing the spray gun hose through it? I'd be forever tripping over it in your setup!
With as much as you spray, you could experiment with waterborne lacquer maybe with your next shop project. You must raise the grain before applying the first cost. It is safer and the look and feel is the same as pre-cat.
This is a great introduction video on HVLP. I’ve sprayed lacquers but never pre-cat. I’ve read that pre-cat has a shelf and as I’m a hobbies I’m concerned about wasting what I can’t use. Thanks for the video.
Strictly speaking everything has a shelf life, but pre-cat should be ok in a sealed tin for at least a couple of years, if it does thicken up just thin down with a drop of cellulose thinners.
@@utube1818 does it matter if it’s an acid catalyst or the other type?
@@douglaspollock102 Use pre-cat for general use internal projects, use A/C's for severer use or wetroom areas ie. Table tops, kitchen doors, bathroom cabinets.
@@utube1818Sorry, what are A/Cs?
@@MadLadsAnonymous Acid Catalyst, also know as two-pack. Once mixed these have a shelf life of a few hours to a few days.
Good vid. Do you ever worry that the exhaust fan creates a spark when being turned on and cause an explosion from the lacquer fumes? Or is it an explosion proof fan?
Card scraper! great tip.
Is it okay to have an exposed electrical outlet inside the spray booth? Definitely asking, not suggesting
What do you use to remove the sanding dust between coats?
Rob - Great video. One question though. I am needing to spray some jewelry boxes for Mother's Day (small projects with shelves). I noticed that you immediately turned your project on what you just sprayed. Should I do part and then wait until it dries before doing the bottom or just do it all at once setting it on the "wet" side" immediately?
Is there any concern about pulling air over the fan as opposed to using positive pressure? seems like it might be an explosion hazard.
What about staining. Done before lacquer or added to lacquer? Specific stain for lacquer?
Just confirming that scraping is always along the grain?
And I noticed that you didn’t need to thin the lacquer.......does it come ready to spray?
Cheers
Where did you get that lid for the lacquer can? I have been using a spill bill to pour my lacquers from the can but it can get messy. I like yours better. Is it just sold in Canada or do they sell those in the states?. I have not seen that lid at paint stores or Home Depot.
What size spray tip do you use Rob?
The good thing about the lacquer dust getting in the pores of oak is it melts down on the next coat and fills in those gaps.
Would spraying varnish be similar to the way you spray lacquer?
Great vid. Thanks
Btw, I noticed your K9 patch. Did you do Dog Work in service and/or as a civilian?
I sand it very lightly between coats without a block of wood, just my hand.
Do you ever thin the first coat?
What size tip do you use?
Hey Rob
New to your channel and I want one of those scrapers and turntables where can I order them I’m in Canada and can’t find them
Thanks for the video
Bruce
Any last specks (nibs) on the topcoat are removed (de-nibbed) by rubbing with the back of a scrap of sandpaper- the 'paper' is designed specifically for this purpose.
173rd high and center 👍
I would like to spray lacquer but my shop is in my garage with the gas furnace and gas water heater. So I spray water based finish. Were you in the 173 Airborne? I went through jump school in Aug 1969 at Ft Benning. On jump status with 173 in Nam. Liked this video so I subbed. Airborne!
Through Sherwin Williams you can request how much catalyst is added, My personal favorite is "half cat", (kind of like ordering your latte). I get the best of both worlds, quick dry time but I don't take the chance with orange peel although I still have a shelf life.
How long is your shelf life with half cat?
Curious to know why you would invest in a dedicated HVLP setup vs just an HVLP gun since you already have a large air compressor? Do you feel there's an advantage worth the cost?
I believe that High Volume Low Pressure is your answer. Difficult to get both out of an air compressor.
@@lencranston8183 not at all. There are several HVLP guns on the market, and they produce a sub-10 PSI pressure at the aircap outlet, as the volume necessary to properly atomize the finish. These guns are usually called conversion HVLP, because they do exactly that. Oh, and by the way, the compressor's air pressure is normally set to 40 PSI and the pressure regulator at the base of the spraygun is set to approximately 10PSI. That pressure may be raised as necessary, but usually no higher than 15 PSI. I hope this helps clarify this issue for you, if not, then let's continue the discussion.
I've never tried lacquer (other than from a rattle can on a small project; I remember the odor was very strong). It must dry very fast, I noticed you put the bottom down on the stand shortly after spraying it.
Thanks for the tip on the scraper; I've been using 500-600 grit foam sanding pads but I'll have to try the scraper.
Please, any recommendations regarding finishing the interior of a project such as inside a drawer cavity and how to maintain the piston-fit of a drawer?
You could try out putting painters tape on one drawer side then getting it fit like that, then spray until you have half the tape thick finish on each side by just trying it in the box between coats until it fits.
I haven't tried it, but I want to next chance I get. Many people don't put finish on piston fit drawers because it's rubbing against the sides every time it's used.
I also want to experiment with using ceramic automotive turtle wax over top of lacquer to protect against scratching and fading. Hardwood boat decks use a ceramic wax for that purpose I think it's the same stuff.
Question: you mentioned not having to clean the gun between coats, fairly new here and using an Earle 5500 - how does the finish not harden in the gun or tip? Thank you sir for your great videos and teaching style!
You might get drying right at the tip, or possibly the side ports on the front, but generally not inside.
Thanks for this video. At the start of the video you mentioned repairs. You also mentioned that the subsequent layers in lacquer melt the precious layers. If you have a crack in lacquer what would you do to repair it? Would you just spray over the crack and will it fill in? Or do you have to sand down the area with the hairline crack on lacquer and then spray some more lacquer on the sanded area?
It depends on what you mean by a crack, you wouldn't normal get the surface cracking (although in exceptionally hot weather some types of basecoats can craze, then its a wash off job and start again). If you did get a crack it would normally be on a joint in which case you would fill it. Yes you can sand down a small area then spray it in, before then coating the whole piece.
What kind of paint is lacquer?
Is it sold in Europe?
You said the scraper is how thick?
Thank you for this Rob. I want to try lacquer but have used shellac or poly up to now. On shellac doesn't that mesh with the previous layer just as lacquer does? Been using shellac mostly and doing a French polish and getting good results so I have stuck with that. I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on shellac.
After using the scraper, how do you clean the surface before applying the next coat. Do you vacuum, use tack cloth, wipe with a micro-fiber cloth, or some combination of these, You didn't talk about that at all.
Shellac has been used for centuries and will last for years if used correctly. If applied with a rubber it will mesh with the previous coat. Don't use it on anything in a moisture environment or where it will get hot ie table top. Other than that is still one of the best looking finishes you can get.
I would strongly suggest an explosion proof fan that is properly wired before your booth goes boom!!!
Hi Rob, have you tried out my finishing technique of finishing a piece with oil first, then giving it an overcoat of lacquer. Just curious as I mentioned it in your other recent finishing video. Hope your keeping well.
i have been meaning to try that but have not done it yet.....
Thanks Rob, I have sprayed lacquer with varying success. I’ll try the scraper next time. I’m in Florida and I’ve used lacquer from WoodCraft and still confused about what I’m buying. My question is what does “pre-cat” mean and can I spray lacquer that says it’s for brush on??
Pre-cat refers to the catalyst already being in the solution from the supplier. The catalyst and it's chemical reaction with the lacquer is what makes the molecules join together to give you the final finish. You can also purchase post-cat lacquer where you add the catalyst just before using the product. The simple answer to spraying a brush on finish is yes, but you would likely have to thin it to an appropriate viscosity for your gun beforehand.
If you're spraying in Florida and depending on how climate controlled your finishing area is, you would likely need to use some retarder to have consistant results due to humidity.
Rob, do you know if that scraper technique would work between coats of shellac?
Shellac requires sanding before each coat too, just for first or second coat, you should have a clean surface after that. scraper I believe is a faster way to get it done but it has a concern that the material removed, paints has difference in paint film, some of them is thinner, so you might need to pay attention not to scrape the layer off.
I use Earlex the gun looks identical with a metal handle
One question. Is it possible to brush this kind of lacker on with a high qualety brush?
No, and the reason why is that lacquer starts to set up/dry rather quickly and it's really not possible to work even a medium sized area quickly enough to produce a decent finish. It drags and leaves ridges of unevenness and brush marks. You can however, use a brush (foam) on edges and in corners to soak up or apply just a touch more product. I would highly recommend you try any corner/edge foam brushing on a sample project or sample area to sort of perfect your touch and style before doing it on something that matters. It's worth the time investment to work out any kinks beforehand and your project will look well planned & professional.
Does pre cat lawyer have an expiration or use by date? Is it hard enough for kitchen cabinets?
Does have a shelf life. Tends to yellow if left too long in the can, also starts to thicken. Don’t buy more that a years worth. This brand is the only lacquer approved for use in kitchens in Canada. That stat is 20 years old at least but still true in terms of use in the kitchen.
why you don't use wood sanding sealer first before you use lacquer
Hi, great video. A couple questions, how long do you wait between coats before you put the scraper on? If the lacquer is not drying fast, does it mean it's too heavy? It takes a long time for me to sand or knock off the bumps.
What AcromaPro Lacquer are you using? Its hard to tell from the video. THanks!
intro 40
Great video. this is an off topic question do you think an 8000 dmt diamond stone would be good enough vs a 10000 Shapton Glass Stone. The dmt stone I found cost 77.82 on amazon it's by dia-sharp.
I assume you mean verses a 16k shapton.. and it depends on what you want. Can you get a sharp blade with that - yes. Can you get it as sharp as a 16k - No. will you be able to tell a significant difference between 8k DMT ans 15 k Shapton - yes. Would i only sharpen up to a 8k diamond stone - no
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you, that saved me a lot of money .
What type of finish would you use on kitchen cabinets?
lacquer
You mentioned that you keep the lacquer in the gun while you spray 3 - 4 coats in a day. Do you clean the gun between coats? Can you leave the lacquer in the gun for extended periods or is it best to empty the gun and clean it out after you are done for the day? Thank you for your wonderful and inspiring videos.
He also said that lacquer eats plastic. My HVLP sprayer (HomeRite) is plastic.
@barrywuthrich8530 eats certain plastics. They make plastics that are safe for it, but most plastics in your shop would be melted by it.
We’ve never had an issue with the gun clogging over night. However, we pick it up and use it the next day. If it was going to be several weeks I would probably empty and clean out.
My question is are laquor and shalac the same thing ????thanks
No, lacquer is derived from petroleum and covers a wide range of coatings. Shellac is made from the excretions of the female Lac Beetle then dissolved in methylated spirits.
totally liked the video but wondering and ii may have missed it but did you mention tip size i ve alway thought it the most important imfo in any coating or painting video
Tip size is relative to both the type of gun your using and the viscosity of the material.
What size tip do you use in the gun for spraying lacquer? No one ever seems to mention that. Is it because it doesn't matter? Or is it critical?
I think most guns come with a tip designed for lacquer or other similar finishes. The other tips come into play with thicker material like paint.
Where can we get one of the cool can toppers/pour/filler things?
Appears to be exactly what Rob was using...
www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Select-Plastic-Lid-for-1-Gal-Paint-Can-1-Gal-LID/203713318
Looks like MDO, not MDF. I see veneers, I think.
Looks like you had no problem with setting the piece on the bottom that was just spray coated. Is that because it will not be visible and appearance is no issue?
A lacquer finish dries to the touch in minutes
Can you post a link for the can cover please?
You can buy them at Home Depot for about $3.00